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Black Satin by Angelique c1946

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Black Satin by Angelique: launched in 1946.

So what does it smell like? It was an opulent oriental perfume. I have no published notes on this composition so I am using a vintage 1950s perfume nip to complete the article.


  • Top notes: aldehydes, citronella, lemon, geranium, galbanum
  • Middle notes: oil of cardamom, coriander, lily of the valley, lavender, jasmine, iris
  • Base notes: Arabian myrrh, oakmoss, Indian sandalwood, orris, amber, patchouli, cedar, benzoin, vetiver, styrax
I applied some drops to the back of my hand and noticed right away that this was a very powdery, musty sort of perfume. It would probably be classified as a dry chypre fragrance for women. It was very heavy on the green notes, oakmoss, geranium and citruses. The florals are very muted in this perfume, the perfume reminded me of Ivory soap and Avon's Skin So Soft. There was a lovely woody sweetness to the base notes, but it still remained sort of musty, I did like that effect though, it reminded me of antique wood, like an old antique carved sandalwood fan that I owned many years ago. There is a sort of what I call the "band aid" scent to the drydown probably from oud, somewhat medicinal with a slight dirty hair smell from the styrax.

Angelique's perfumes were housed in Swindell Bros. bottles. The foil labels were produced by Richard M. Krause and the boxes were handmade made by The Perfumers and Jewelers Box Company.


Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1969.

Le No. 9 by Cadolle c1926

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 Le No. 9 by Cadolle: launched in 1926.

The luxurious Cadolle No. 9 was created as an answer to Chanel’s famous No. 5 perfume. In 1989, this exquisite oriental perfume was reformulated and relaunched. The result was a powdery soft oriental fragrance that was available in both eau de parfum and eau de toilette forms. Cadolle No. 9 was still available in selected retailers in Europe up until around 2008.


So what does the original formula smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic woody floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: orange, bergamot, aldehydes, jasmine, Bulgarian rose
  • Middle notes: red cedar, sandalwood, rosewood, ylang ylang, lily, carnation
  • Base notes: Siamese benzoin, Indian sandalwood, Virginian cedar, Penang patchouli, musk, ambergris

So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange, tangerine, strawberry, jasmine, Bulgarian rose
  • Heart notes: red cedar, sandalwood, rosewood, iris, violet, opoponax, ylang ylang, lily, carnation
  • Base notes: Siamese benzoin, Indian sandalwood, Virginian cedar, Penang patchouli, vanilla, musk, ambergris


Just after the second World War, the founder of Cadolle, Herminie Cadolle needed to protect her brand and subsequently sold No. 9’s formula to Paquin, creator of the famous 9 X 9 perfume. Shortly after, L’Oreal purchased Paquin, and Cadolle No. 9 was then purchased again by their namesake firm, Poupie Cadolle,  Herminie's great-great-great granddaughter, who incorporated Cadolle Parfums in 1986.

 The firm is now known as the House of Cadolle and can be found at http://www.cadolle.com.

Cadolle No. 9 was still available in selected retailers in Europe up until around 2008. It is discontinued and fervently hunted by loyal fans of the legendary fragrance.



Gold Satin by Angelique c1950

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Gold Satin by Angelique: launched in 1950.

So what does it smell like? It was a chypre fragrance for women. I have no published notes on this composition so I am using a vintage 1950s perfume nip to complete the article.


  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, geranium, galbanum, verbena, pepper
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, lavender, jasmine, iris, marjoram, thyme, bay leaf, clove, basil
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, orris, amber, patchouli, cedar, benzoin, oud, vetiver, musk


I applied some drops to the back of my hand and noticed right away that this was a very green floral perfume. It would probably be classified as a green floral chypre fragrance. It was very heavy on the green notes, oakmoss, herbs and galbanum. The delicate florals are toned down in this perfume, but the Bulgarian rose retains its soapy character throughout. The drydown has beautiful cedar and patchouli notes blended with the sweetness and booziness of benzoin. About a half hour of wearing the perfume, a lovely dry herbal facet appears alongside the dusty orris and vetiver. I can detect herbs de Provence here, basil, marjoram, bay leaf, thyme and some lavender. Other spices such as clove and pepper give a piquant effect which is quite pleasing and different. There is a sort of what I call the "band aid" scent to the drydown probably from oud.

I liked this perfume better than Angelique's Black Satin.

Angelique's perfumes were housed in Swindell Bros. bottles. The foil labels were produced by Richard M. Krause and the boxes were handmade made by The Perfumers and Jewelers Box Company.

Eau de Gucci c1982

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Eau de Gucci by Gucci: originally launched in 1982. Created by Michel Almairac.  Also, another vintage version called Eau de Gucci Concentrée (Concentrated) was available in the 1980s, it was more intense than regular old Eau de Gucci.

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a fresh, green woodsy floral fragrance for women.


  • Top notes: aldehydes, tangerine, bergamot, hyacinth and mandarin orange
  • Middle notes: orange blossom, lilac, jasmine, violet, tuberose, ylang ylang and lily of the valley
  • Base notes: sandalwood, vetiver, and vanilla

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1988.

Reformulated and relaunched in 1993.

It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: mandarin orange, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, bergamot, lemon and galbanum
  • Middle notes: honeysuckle, tuberose, lily, violet, lilac, iris, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose
  • Base notes: amber, musk, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver and cedar


Missoni by Missoni c1981

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Missoni by Missoni: launched in 1981. Created by Maurice Roucel and Trudi Loren.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh mossy leather chypre fragrance for women with fruity top notes and a warm, woodsy base.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, blackcurrant buds (cassie), acacia, raspberry, hyacinth and bergamot
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, violet, carnation, iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium
  • Base notes: leather, sandalwood, honey, amber, vetiver, patchouli, musk, civet, oakmoss and styrax

Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand. The perfume wins the Fragrance Foundation Award for best packaging in 1982.

Discontinued, date unknown.



Reformulated and relaunched in 2006.

So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women with a light, woodsy base. It is not the same as the original.

  • Top notes: bergamot, mandarin and spicy orange
  • Middle notes: magnolia, peony, wild rose and Japanese apple
  • Base notes: pear tree, chocolate, hazelnuts and amber

The new version is available in the following:

  • 30ml Eau de Parfum 
  • 50ml Eau de Parfum 
  • 100ml Eau de Parfum
  • 6ml Parfum
  • 15ml Parfum


Aluminum Perfume Bottles c1896

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Aluminum perfume bottles and powder puff boxes shown in an antique Victorian 1896 Busiest House In America publication.


You may think that aluminum was an unusual metal to make perfume bottles from, but, at one time, the metal was highly prized. In the mid 1880s, aluminum metal was exceedingly difficult to produce, which made pure aluminum more valuable than gold. So celebrated was the metal that bars of aluminum were exhibited at the Exposition Universelle of 1855. Napoleon III of France is reputed to held a banquet where the most honored guests were given aluminum utensils, while the others made do with gold. But by 1895, a new process was developed to produce aluminum more inexpensively and soon it became a more common metal used for the making of a variety of household goods, including vanity items.

Aluminum was touted as untarnishable.







Y by Yves Saint Laurent c1964

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Y by Yves Saint Laurent: launched in 1964. Created by Jean Amic. 'Y' is properly pronounced in the French manner ‘Ee-grek’.



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh green fruity chypre fragrance for women.

  • Top notes are aldehydes, honeysuckle, gardenia, green notes, peach, mirabelle plum and galbanum
  • Middle notes are narcissus, tuberose, orris root, jasmine, hyacinth, ylang-ylang and Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes are cypress, sandalwood, ambergris, patchouli, benzoin, civet, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax
Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand.

The original formula was discontinued. The older bottles for the eau de toilette have white caps and are emblazoned with an italicized 'Y'.


Real Brand Fragrances, Real Low Prices at The Perfume Spot


 From 1993-1999 the bottom of the bottles are marked with the Sanofi Beaute name, as they acquired Yves Saint Laurent Parfums. In 1999, Sanofi Beaute was then sold to the Gucci Group and Yves Saint Laurent has been recently acquired by L'Oreal. 

Usually, when perfume companies trade hands, they tend to reformulate fragrances due to the ever increasing expense of materials, or sometimes discontinue them altogether if the demand is not enough or the materials are too expensive. Many times, a repackaging is a sign of reformulation, though this rule is excepted in terms of limited edition collector's flacons.

Though by 2004, it was reformulated by Michel Hy in collaboration with Jacques Bercia and relaunched. The eau de toilette reformulated bottles have a gold cap and the 'Y' straight up and down.

The fragrances were again reformulated around 2010 and are said to be better and more faithful to the original than the previous reformulation which many reviewers bitterly expressed that this formula was "weaker""cheap smelling""thinner""watered down"






Torrente by Parfums Torrente c1977

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Torrente by Parfums Torrente: launched in 1977. - 1978 (in USA)

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral woody fragrance for women.
  • hyacinth, neroli, galbanum, carnation
  • lily of the valley, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, magnolia, iris
  • orris, cedar, musk, sandalwood, vetiver, ambrette
Bottle designed by Pierre Dinand.

In 1980, Chen Yu (Eugène Gallia & Co) was given the license to Parfums Torrente.

Discontinued, date unknown. This perfume is VERY hard to find.



The perfume was also available in a miniature bottle strung onto a cord necklace.







Victorian Era Perfume Bottles catalog page c1893

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Advertisement showing two perfumes for sale, shown in an 1893-1894 Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co., Chicago, catalog.




Leonid de Lescinskis

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Léonid Lescinskis, Inc, 49 W 46 St, NYC. Company later renamed Lenard Et Cie., Inc.






The fragrances of Léonid Lescinskis:
  • 1940 White Mask
  • 1940 Muguet
  • 1940 Reine de Nuit
  • 1944 Perfume No. 9 (an aldehydic perfume, also known as Parfum 9)
  • 1945 Eau d’Amour
  • 1945 Eau de Fleurs (floral perfume)
  • 1946 Charmanka 
  • 1967 One Way Men's Cologne (under the Lenard Et Cie name)

    Home Journal, 1945:
    "For "immortal longings" No. 9, by Leonid de Lescinskis."
    Cue, 1950:
    "A tried and true favorite which costs little but means a lot is de Lescinskis'"Eau de Fleurs" cologne, which comes with an atomizer for quick and delightful spraying."


    The New Yorker, 1953:
    "Then, at Bonwit Teller, there is Leonid de Lescinskis' new Eau d'Amour Extrait, which is sweet, flowery, and charmingly girlish. Perfumes that reflect the current Oriental trend in fashion are apt to be very light and airy, with hints of sandalwood."

    Harper's Bazaar, 1954:
    " "Eau de Fleurs" perfume hair spray by Leonid de Lescinskis is the first of its kind."

    Frances Denney Perfumes

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    Frances Denney/Denny of Philadelphia, Pa. Frances Denney also traded under the name Denney & Denney from 1925-1950.

    Frances Cunningham, from Drogheda, Ireland broke the stereotypes of the late Victorian era and enrolled in Trinity College in Dublin. She became the first woman to graduate with a degree in chemistry. Shortly after emigrating to the United States, she combined her knowledge of chemistry with a spirit of innovation and created a new industry by opening a fashionable salon in Philadelphia in 1897.

    Coincidentally, the day her salon opened, she was celebrating not only her own birthday but also the birth of the first Cosmetic House in America.  While most cosmetics of the period did no more than cover the skin, Frances Denney introduced the first Regimen for Skin Care, "Cleanse, Freshen and Lubricate". Her superb formulas were sought out for their exceptional beauty dividends as well as the small investment in the time that was needed to attain these beautiful results.

    In 1910 Frances Denney became the first to open a salon in a the John Wanamaker's retail department store in Philadelphia.

    Frances Denney's oldest son entered the family business in 1928, followed by his brother and sister. At about this time, Frances began to diminish her role in the business and ultimately retired in 1938 at the age of 74.

    Today, Frances Denney's parent company is publicly held and is listed on the American Stock Exchange. The specialists who continue Frances Denney's work share her extraordinary vision and high standards.  Frances Denney's skincare and fragrances are available at her website www.fancesdenney.com, most information used in this guide from the website.

    The perfumes of Frances Denney:
    • 1920 Mayana
    • 1925 Bizarre
    • 1925 Jasmin Flowers
    • 1925 Rose Elizabeth
    • 1925 Silver Narcisse
    • 1938 You and I
    • 1939 Night Life
    • 1939 Shining Star
    • 1939 Yes,Yes
    • 1940 Do-Re-Mi
    • 1942 Whirlwind
    • 1949 Mrs Santa Claus Comes To Town
    • 1950 Snow Blossom (an aldehydic perfume)
    • 1952 Hope (an aldehydic floral perfume)
    • 1956 Gay Mood
    • 1962 Interlude
    • 1970 Chenango

    Dorothy Gray Perfumes

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    In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Dorothy Gray of Bloomfield, NJ from 1922-1971.


    The perfumes of Dorothy Gray:

    • 1922 Beautiful Lady
    • 1922 Doritina
    • 1922 Bouquet Yvette
    • 1929 Larme
    • 1929 Sourires
    • 1930 Guestbook (perfume presentation)
    • 1935 Night Drums (a woody-mossy-leafy perfume)
    • 1936 Elation (soft, subtle perfume)
    • 1937 Frenchman's Creek
    • 1938 Flutter
    • 1938 Nosegay (a floral perfume)
    • 1938  Hot Weather Cologne - Sweet Suggestion (a spicy lemon and lilac perfume)
    • 1938  Hot Weather Cologne - Natural
    • 1938  Hot Weather Cologne - Jasmine Bouquet
    • 1938  Hot Weather Cologne - Rose Geranium Bouquet
    • 1938  Hot Weather Cologne - Sweet Spice
    • 1938  Hot Weather Cologne - June Bouquet.
    • 1940 Portrait
    • 1941 Bleeding Heart
    • 1941 Brass Band
    • 1941 Magnum
    • 1941 Margaret Rose
    • 1941 York Rose
    • 1941 Lady in the Dark
    • 1942 Golden Orchid (a floral oriental perfume)
    • 1945 White Lilac
    • 1945 Hot Weather Cologne - White Lilac
    • 1946 Magic Hour (crisp, dry, musky)
    • 1947 In the Pink ( a spicy perfume)
    • 1947 Savoir Faire (a floral perfume)
    • 1947 Daredevil (an oriental perfume)
    • 1948 Indigo
    • 1948 Spindrift
    • 1948 Suggestion
    • 1948 Siren
    • 1948 On The Avenue
    • 1948 Love Song
    • 1952 Mimosa
    • 1953 Wedgewood (a spicy bouquet perfume)
    • 1954 Figurine
    • 1957 Aureate
    • 1960 Secret of The Sea
    • 1961 Tantalize
    • 1963 Midnight
    • 1965 Ming Dynasty
    • 1969 Midnight
    • 1971 Dee Gee
    • Broadway Baby
    • Budding Beauty
    • Fuschia
    • Special Appointment
    • Red Letter



    The perfume Figurine was a bouquet of jasmine and lily and came in cologne, cream sachet, hand lotion, dusting powder, sachet talc and cream deodorant.

    Ann Haviland Perfumes

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    Ann Haviland Haviland of Laboratories. Established by Ann Haviland in West 57th Street in 1909. Ann Haviland reportedly learned the art of perfumery in far off Smyrna, Turkey, Where She Lived as a girl.

    By 1970 the company WAS Ann Haviland perfume sold to Coper Laboratories to form Haviland-Weil Parfums to distribute Both Ann Haviland and Perfumes Weil's fragrances in the USA. The Ann Haviland perfumes Were discontinued by 1974.

    In 1917 silent movie actress Theda Bara, named Ann Haviland as the "poetess of perfume."

    A 1920 newspaper item references That "Miss Ann Haviland, of New York, Who Makes individual perfumes to order and can Distinguish more than 400 varieties When she is blindfolded and reconnu today as the one woman owns her own perfume Have you laboratory in New York."

     In addition to the loose Sachet Powder, Ann Haviland offers pillow sachets All which are convenient to tuck Among your hankies, stockings, lingerie, etc.. Ann Haviland bags of exquisite quality satin boudoir in lovely colors. Ann Haviland HAS veritable garden of delightful scents in her wonderful soaps bags toilet waters bath salts etc. Just about as pretty as a gift can be

    The perfumes of Ann Haviland:

    • 1914 Autumn Pink / Pinx
    • 1914 Tropic Gardenia
    • 1934 Gardenia
    • 1935 Daphne
    • 1939 Celeste
    • 1939 Perhaps (a floral perfume)
    • 1939 Lily of the Valley
    • 1944 First Love
    • 1944 Wood Violet
    • 1945 Carnation
    • 1946 Purple Lilac
    • 1948 Blue Hyacinth
    • 1950 Jasmin of the Night
    • 1959 Christmas Flowers
    • 1967 ODAmour



    The perfume Daphne waa Exclusively created for the Jay Thorpe department store to be sold under Their Own label.

    Wood Violet WAS Described in ads as "Dewy, enchanting, a light and airy scene reminiscent .. like purple violets picked Effective year April rain."

    Purple Lilac WAS Described in ads as "Purple Lilac Sends Your Spirits Skyward. There's nothing like a fresh flower fragrance to start your spirits racing Toward the clouds to bring a light and sweet touch to winter. And there's definitely no floral fragrance to excel Ann Haviland's -. Especially this one That truly captures the pure essence of lilacs Purple Lilac Is Like a Fresh fragrant bouquet with enchanting romance as purple lilac in full bloom Available in perfume, toilet water, body powder, talcum, bath salts, sachet, bath oil. and soap. "

    Gardenia WAS Described in ads as "an exquisite fragrance.,-Combining sophistication with gracious femininity. A really choice gardenia holding all the sophisticated look you'd expect from Ann Haviland."

    Carnation WAS Described in ads as "the spicy fragrance of a fresh bouquet clear as a spring breeze. Available in toilet water, bath powder, talcum powder."

    Jasmine of the Night WAS Described in ads as "intense the true scent of the night flowering jasmine That drifts through southern windows like the romantic strains of a serenade .. lovely intricacy devised by this genius of flower fragrances, and Entirely new. Perfume and water toilet available. "

    Blue Hyacinth WAS Described in ads as "a memorable whisper of dew drenched gardens, refresh yourself with the luxury of Blue Hyacinth. The true fragrance of Spring blossoming blue hyacinths captured by Ann Haviland. Available in toilet water, Grecian bath oil, sachet, talc , perfume, bath powder. "

    Lily of the Valley Described as "a soft echo of vibrant warmth When she feels younger than Springtime."

    Perhaps WAS Described as "Perhaps toiler water capturing the haunting loveliness gold Many romantic moods.Perhaps Is an elusive fragrance That Makes You guess"


    A 1924 ad for Ann Haviland perfumes Suggests:


    # 1. to apply perfume to your eyebrows as the short hairs of the eyebrows retain the perfume along than the skin since evaporation takes up more slowly.Besides, this is an ideal two-some, Usually the girl comes up to a man's chin, not far below his nose.
    # 2. One little known method of applying perfume is to saturate a piece of cotton with your scent Chosen Place it under the shoulder strap of your underpants. Body heat releases an aura about you.
    # 3. A glamorous method of using perfume is to spray it on the hem of your evening gown, Then as you walk or dance, the fragrance is wafted into the air around you. This is the best way to do it.
    # 4. Another point is to apply perfume to the inside of your gloves, while your gloves are on, the warmth of your hands attra the perfume Will All which cling to the fingers.

    Miahati Perfumes

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     Established in 1940 in New York; launched a range of fragrances in c1940' and 50's.

    In 1940, Andrew Apicella and Rose Vivaudou organized Miahati, Inc., and thereafter transacted their business in the said corporate name.

    Andrew Apicella, traded variously under several names such as Oceanic Import Co., Abbott Manufacturing Co. and Miahati, Inc., put out a line of perfumes that he has been advertising as originating from the Famous Gardens of Miahati in Hawaii, unfortunately, no such place existed and the perfume manufacturer was summoned before the FTC. The FTC directed Miahati, Inc. (Manhattan), to stop representing that perfumes made in the U.S. come from Hawaii. However, when Hawaii became a US state in 1959, I am sure they may have been able to use the Hawaiian origination in their ads.

    Their perfumes were made from exotic varicolored hibiscus, pikake (jasmine), honeysuckle and other tropical flowers such as ylang ylang.


    • 1939 Honolulu
    • 1939 Ka Lani Keia
    • 1939 Pikaki
    • 1939 Waikiki
    • 1940 Soul of the Flowers
    • 1941 Old Mission
    • 1941 Old Mission - Crocus
    • 1941 Old Mission - Rosemary
    • 1941 Old Mission - Verbena
    • 1941 Ye Olde Wishing Well
    • 1942 El Morocco
    • 1944 Blue Fox (an oriental perfume)
    • 1944 Audacious (a fruity floral perfume)
    • 1944 Downing Street (for men)
    • 1950 Tarantella
    • 1950 Tomorrow
    • 1955 Jaunty (a floral perfume)
    • 1955 My Fancy (an aldehydic perfume)
    • Four Moods

    Parfums Moneau

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    Parfums Moneau, Inc.,  18 East 49th St New York City.

    Parfums Moneau only had two perfumes:

    • 1943 Discovery
    • 1944 If



    Discovery:


    Discovery is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It was similar to Coty's L'Origan but with an emphasis of sweet and spicy carnation. Heavy, strong, and lasting.

    The star shaped clear glass bottle had a frosted glass stopper shaped like a globe. The bottle stands 3-1/2" tall. It came in a box decorated with antique maps. The later bottles still have a star shaped bottle, but the pretty frosted stopper was replaced by a black plastic ball shaped screw cap.

    It was discontinued sometime in the 1970s.

    If...


    If is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women. It has a dry, lemony top note.

    The stock bottle was manufactured by Regent & Co. and fits into a transparent lucite base. Topping the container is a sapphire blue stopper below which around the neck of the bottle hangs a sterling silver charm enameled with "If..." which serves as the label. The back of the tag reads “PARFUMS MONEAU, NEW YORK, STERLING”. Measures approximately 5/8" long by 1 /2" tall including the bale. The bottle stands 4.25” tall.  I saw this bottle on another site and it had a fake R. Lalique signature applied to the base. Lalique never made this bottle, it was made by Regent & Co.

    It was discontinued sometime in the 1970s.



    Excerpts from Advertisements:


    The New Yorker, 1943:
    "Moneau's Discovery, a dry, decisive scent in a star- shaped bottle with a globe stopper, is another."

    Harper's Bazaar, 1944:
    ""Discovery," a French-inspired perfume by Moneau, all the excitement the name implies ... a new friend ... an unexpected gift. The gleaming star-shaped crystal bottle is topped with a cloudy glass stopper showing in relief a map of the world."

    Tricolor, 1944:
    "Moneau's new perfume, If, Moneau's new perfume, If, is an Oriental sort of affair. You'll see it at Altman, for one. It's a swell scent with a lemony tang — pungent rather dry and made with imported French essential oils. A crystal bottle rests on a double platform of clear lucite with a sterling silver charm around its neck. After the perfume is gone, the charm with the single word "If" on it can be used as an addition to a charm bracelet. Made by Moneau, the house of Discovery perfume."

    The New Yorker, 1944:
    " Moneau, who thought up Discovery a while back, has a new one called If, fresh and spicy and with a little sterling silver charm hung around the neck of the bottle with "if" written on it."

    Glass Packer, 1944:
    "IF ... a new perfume by Parfums Moneau, Inc., is a delightfully fresh yet subtly alluring odor.  The stock bottle by Regent & Co. fits into a transparent lucite base which gives an unusually beautiful refractive effect. Topping the container is a sapphire blue stopper below which around the neck of the bottle hangs a sterling silver charm which serves as the label."

    Nettie Rosenstein Perfumes

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    Nettie Rosenstein of New York City.

    The perfumes of Nettie Rosenstein:

    • 1946 After Hours
    • 1946 Odalisque (an oriental perfume)
    • 1948 Tianne (an aldehydic perfume)
    • 1961 Fleurs D'Elle
    • 1965 Mlle. Ghe



    Tianne: a merry,  modern floral blend with a sparkling aldehydic top note and enhanced with woody notes and spices, brilliant and luxurious.

    Odalisque:  Subtle,mysterious, sensitive, seductive. A light Oriental fragrance. A perfume of outer repose. and slumbering fire,sentimental as love itself . Nettie Rosenstein blends rose, jasmine and lily of the valley with woods and musk for a memory making fragrance. I believe this perfume was discontinued around 1985.

    Fleurs d'Elle: is a rich lasting, perfume., warm and provocative as woman. Destined to be as loved as her. Elusive fascinating its beauty. keeps unfolding as it is worn just as a woman' s inner self is gradually revealed or as a flower slowly unfolds. petal by petal.

    Mlle. Ghe: a new unforgettable fragrance created for the young at heart. For each drop is like a fantasy garden. Blended of Jasmine, musk and moonlight and perennial flowers. Very feminine a bit sophisticated.

    In 1951, Nettie Rosenstein came out with a cute little perfume presentation for her perfumes Odalisque & Tianne. Little pocket containers are nestled in what looks like crushed ice in a real cocktail glass, around the glass is a spotted fabric bow, alluding to Nettie's profession as a dress designer. This presentation was called The Holiday Toast of Perfume.

    In 1953, Nettie Rosenstein packaged her famous perfumes in the adorable "Tuck-Away" black velvet kit containing two heavenly scents, Tianne & Odalisque.

    Suzanne Talbot

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    J. Suzanne Talbot was a milliner from France. Her shop was located at 14 rue Royale in Paris. During the late Victorian era she designed clothing and hats. She introduced perfumes around 1924. She drew her inspiration on her own name, and called her first perfumes "J", "S" and "T". Famous milliners Lilly Dache and Jeanne Lanvin were seamstresses for Talbot in the late 1890s and into the early 1900s.

    The perfumes of J. Suzanne Talbot:
    • 1925 J
    • 1925 S
    • 1925 T

    Established by Suzanne Perichon in Paris, France in c1920.

    The perfumes of Suzanne:

    • 1924 Le Secret de Suzanne (an oriental perfume)
    • 1938 Tout de Suite (a floral perfume\] '
    • 1940 Fragrance of Lightning
    • 1940 Chaste 
    • 1946 Permettez Moi
    • 1947 Bright Christmas
    • 1952 Beau Catcher (sold under the Vigny name as well) (a spicy bouquet perfume)
    • Tempestuous Perfume

    Flair by Yardley c1952

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    Flair by Yardley: launched in 1952. First created by Yardley, then traded to Lentheric in 1964. Since 1999, it has been distributed by Mayfair Perfumes.



    Yardley's Flair was available in the following:
    • Perfume
    • Flairessent (a toilet water)
    • Lavanesque (a longlasting toilet essence that combines the richness of a perfume with the freshness of toilet water)
    • Cologne
    • Bath Oil
    • Talcum Powder
    • Dusting (Bath) Powder
    • Solid Perfume 


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women with a chypre base.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lily, nutmeg
    • Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, gardenia, jasmine, mimosa
    • Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, sandalwood, musk and ambergris

    The New Yorker, 1952:
    "Yardley has thought up Flair, a cheerful, saucy perfume, and Flairessence, a toilet water, which is lighter, but still more pungent, than cologne. "

    The New Yorker, 1953:
    "YARDLEY a language of loveliness Express your loveliness with Flair, Yardley's radiant new perfume. Flair was created— and named— for women of flawless taste and memorable distinction."

    Vogue, 1956:
    "Add Flair to your life dresses and does things with . . . flair. It's a new, in many forms— the perfume, from $5 (plus tax) . slightly sophisticated, lightly heady and delight- Look for Flair at the finest perfume counters. Flair by Yardley Yardley."

    Harper's Bazaar, 1961:
    "FLAIR is a domed pin— flashily fake. FLAIR is lizard in unexpected places. FLAIR is a waterfall earring, plunging over the top FLAIR IS A STUNNING NEW FRAGRANCE BY YARDLEY. FLAIR was born for the new clothes. . .a fragrance with a ...

    Celui by Jean Desses c1938

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    Celui by Jean Desses: launched in 1938. Created by Paul Vacher for Les Parfums Jean Desses. Advertisements of the day described it as "a perfume as soft as a secret".


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

    • Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, hyacinth and hawthorne
    • Middle notes: rose de Mai, Egyptian jasmine, gardenia, iris and heliotrope
    • Base notes: civet, ambergris, patchouli, musk, sandalwood and oak moss


    Realities - Issues 204-209, 1963:
    Celui from Jean Dessès bottle crystal blue lined and trimmed by hand of Baccarat Crystal, with leaf-shaped frame, gold, signed Mauboussin. This bottle was specially created by Jean Dessès to

    The parfum concentration for Celui was housed inside of a beautiful satin glass (frosted glass) bottle.


    The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was housed in a bottle of the same shape as the above Parfum, however, the glass is not frosted, but polished clear crystal. This bottle came in three sizes: 2 oz, 4 oz and 8 oz.


    The Parfum de Toilette was housed in a modified version of the above bottle.




    Celui was also presented in heavy Baccarat crystal bottles in two sizes: 6" tall for the Parfum de Toilette and 5" tall for the parfum.


    A rare travel set was composed of two triangular bottles that fit together inside of a red leather case. The bottles had brass screwcaps.




    Mouche by Rochas c1947

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    Mouche by Rochas: launched in 1947. Created by Edmond Roudnitska.  Its curious name, Mouche, means "fly" in French. The perfume was created to be worn on furs during the winter. Continuing the fur theme, Marcel Rochas name the perfume after his cat, Mouche. Discontinued in 1962. A reformulated version was issued in 1987, though I cannot find any images to prove this.



    The parfum was housed in the amphora shaped crystal bottle, originally created by Marc Lalique for Rochas' first perfume, Femme. This edition was housed inside of a turquoise blue box with black Chantilly lace print.

    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral chypre fragrance for women.


    • Top notes: lemon, bergamot, peach, daffodil, apricot
    • Middle notes: cloves, ylang ylang, plum, rose, jasmine, carnation, sweet pea, honey, heliotrope
    • Base notes: vanilla, leather, opoponax, patchouli, musk, oakmoss, benzoin, vetiver, orris, sandalwood, ambergris
     


    Jet - September 11, 1952:
     "One of the most sought after lines of French perfume in the world is now available to Americans. It is Marcel Rochas' distinctive assortment of Parisian 'bouquets', each of which has wide appeal. "Femme', is the heaviest of the perfumes, and Mousseline, a blend of jasmine, lavender and mimosa, the lightest. A more sensual fragrance is "Mouche," suggestive of mosses, leaves, roots and grasses. An exquisite fragrance. An exquisite fragrance called "La Rosa' is described as 'all rose'. A perfume for men, called 'Moustache', has a scent of the outdoors -clean, crisp and windswept.  These perfumes come in special gift packages designed by Rochas. Each package contains three one-quarter ounce bottles. $22.50."



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