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Last Minute Beauty and Fragrance Gifts from Nordstrom


Lace by Yardley c1982

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Lace by Yardley: launched in 1982. Created by Dominique Ropion. Now distributed by Fine Fragrances.



It is classified as a light and sensual floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes and bergamot
  • Middle notes: rose
  • Base notes: vanilla, oakmoss, benzoin, musk, ambergris, patchouli and sandalwood

Click HERE to find Lace by Yardley


Yardley also introduced Pink Lace in 1988, it is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

Odalisque by Nettie Rosenstein c1946

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Odalisque by Nettie Rosenstein: launched in 1946.

Odalisque was available in the following forms:

  • 1/4 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • Perfume Oil (introduced in 1963)
  • Eau de Parfum
  • Spray Cologne
  • Bath Oil
  • Creme de Parfum
  • Dusting Powder
  • Talc
  • Soap
  • Hand & Body Lotion
  • 24K gold electroplate medallion filled with solid Odalisque perfume, it looks like a pocket watch.


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light Oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, lavender
  • Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, opoponax and lily of the valley 
  • Base notes: frankincense, vetiver, cedar, civet, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, tonka bean and musk

Click HERE to find Odalisque by Nettie Rosenstein


 I believe this perfume was discontinued around 1985.

Motion Picture, 1947:
"Nettie Rosenstein's debut scent, Odalisque, clear, sharp with deep interesting undertones. $15 the half-ounce."


Mystere de Rochas c1978

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Mystere de Rochas: launched in 1978. Created by Nicolas Mamounas who used nearly 200 ingredients to complete the formula.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, narcissus, cascarilla, coriander, hyacinth, galbanum and honeysuckle
  • Middle notes: rosemary, violet, magnolia, gardenia, frangipani, lily of the valley, carnation, tuberose, plum, may rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang
  • Base notes: orris root, cedar, cypress, juniper, oak moss, patchouli, civet, styrax, cedarwood and musk
Presented in a clear glass rectangular bottle with a black elliptical cap, designed by Robert Granai and Serge Mansau.

This is a vintage version below, it is a transitional period bottle because it's bottle still has the old style "Mystere de Rochas" serigraphy on the front (and not "Mystere Rochas"), but has the newer style box design.


Click HERE to find Mystere de Rochas



Mystere de Rochas was reformulated when Proctor & Gamble acquired Parfums Rochas in 1989 and was rechristened as simply Rochas Mystere. The result of this reformulation is a sharp, oriental, woody fragrance for women.


  • Top notes: aldehydes, coriander, galbanum andhyacinth
  • Middle notes: cumin, rosemary, carnation, tuberose, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and narcissus
  • Base notes: sandalwood, styrax, cypress, patchouli, musk, civet, oakmoss and cedar






Tianne by Nettie Rosenstein c1948

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Tianne by Nettie Rosenstein: launched in 1948.



Tianne was available in the following forms:
  • Parfum
  • Cologne
  • Bath Oil
  • Perfume Oil
  • Creme de Parfum
  • Dusting Powder
  • Eau de Parfum
  • Soap
  • Bath Oil
  • Hand & Body Lotion

Click HERE to find Tianne by Nettie Rosenstein 


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women,
  • Top notes: aldehydes
  • Middle notes: violet, herbs
  • Base notes: woods, spices

Housed in glass bottles manufactured by Wheaton.

Cue, 1948:
"It is Nettie Rosenstein's Tianne. Packaged in palest blue, it is a gift of distinction for any woman of taste. Half ounce $10.50, one ounce $18.50. Available also in Eau de Parfum from $3.75."

Harper's Bazaar, 1965:
"Tianne — an exotic echo of Japan, like a legendary potion pressed from herbs and uncommon woods."

Devastating by Anjou c1943

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Devastating by Anjou: launched in 1943.

Available in the following:
  • Dusting Powder 
  • Eau de Parfum
  • Parfum

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral chypre fragrance for women
  • Top notes: aldehydes, ginger, bergamot
  • Middle notes: carnation, lily of the valley, pepper
  • Base notes: ambergris, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, musk, opoponax

Click HERE to find Devastating by Anjou


The packaging was in green satin, called "devastating green", and the prism bottle had a polished crystal stopper. Devastating Bath Powder was housed in a square green satin- covered box with an inner lid to hold the puff.

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still sold in 1962.

Tapestry by Mary Chess c1934

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Tapestry by Mary Chess: launched in 1934.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women, although I have seen this classified as an oriental. There are no published notes on this perfume, so I am using a vintage 1950s perfume nip to finish this article.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, peach, geranium, lily of the valley and lemon
  • Middle notes: frangipani, orange blossom, violet, Bulgarian rose, jasmine and ylang ylang
  • Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, musk, civet and ambergris

Click HERE to find Tapestry by Mary Chess


On my skin, it starts out with a very fresh citrus, peach and soapy aldehyde burst, then as it progresses into florals. I can detect Bulgarian rose, geranium and lily of the valley, giving way to a sweet jasmine, lush orange blossom, frangipani, candied violet and fruity ylang ylang heart. The base dries down to a dusty vetiver and sweetened sandalwood and balsamic benzoin, spiked with earthy patchouli and fuzzy oakmoss resting on an animalic base of musk, civet and ambergris. The sweetened florals and sandalwood hold strong for most of the perfume's life, pleasant but never gets cloying. there is a slight fecal note from the civet, just enough to give it a little skank towards the very end.

On paper, the perfume is divine, but smells fruitier and the frangipani note is intensified. The woodsy and animalic notes are muted and the oakmoss is not as strong.

Tapestry was discontinued for many years, but reformulated and relaunched as an eau de toilette in 1994 alongside Autere and Tuberose. However, Tapestry is again discontinued.

Cacharel Parfums

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A division of the Parisian fashion house Cacharel; established by Jean Bousquet in 1962; born in 1932 in Nimes. Bosquet originally studied men's tailoring but found it too limiting. In1956, he began his apprenticeship with a small ready to wear shop in Paris,, and within five years was known as a pioneer of fashion.

Bosquet named his company after a small wild duck found in his native Provence. the soft and feminine signature Cacharel print has remained extremely popular since its introduction in the mid 1960s, and has been applied to silk dresses, as well as colorful sporty separates.  Cacharel also produces a line of men's clothing and the widely copied mini couture clothing for children.

Jean Bosquet has continued to develop his business interests, with distribution throughout Western Europe and the United States. In 1983, he was elected mayor of his native Nimes.

Launched first fragrance 'Anais Anais' in 1978; Parfums Cacharel; now owned by L’Oréal.

The perfumes of Cacharel:

  • 1978 Anaïs Anaïs
  • 1981 Cacharel pour Homme
  • 1987 Lou Lou
  • 1994 Eden
  • 1995 Lou Lou Bleue
  • 1996 Eau de Eden
  • 1998 Noa 
  • 1999 Nemo
  • 2000 Noa Gold
  • 2001 Noa L`Eau de Parfum
  • 2002 Gloria 
  • 2003 Amor Amor 
  • 2003 Noa Fleur 
  • 2004 Amor Amor Noël (Ed. Limitée)
  • 2005 Promesse 
  • 2005 Amor Amor Eau Fraiche 2005 (Ed. Limitée)
  • 2006 Amor Amor Elixir Passion
  • 2006 Amor pour Homme
  • 2006 Noa Perle
  • 2006 Anais Anais Eau Legere
  • 2006 Amor Amor Eau Fraiche 2006 (Ed. Limitée)
  • 2007 Liberte
  • 2007 Promesse Eau Fraîche
  • 2007 Amor Amor Sunshine
  • 2007 Amor pour Homme Sunshine
  • 2007 Anais Anais Flower Edition
  • 2008 Amor Amor Tentation
  • 2008 Amor Pour Homme Tentation
  • 2009 Amor Amor Sunrise
  • 2009 Noa Dream
  • 2009 Scarlett
  • 2010 Amor Amor Delight


His perfume Anais Anais was named after the ancient Persian goddess of love, Anaitis.  It is a delicate floral bouquet of white lily, jasmine, rose and iris. The bottle is adorned with a silver cap and base, the signature Cacharel floral motif on the label.

Alix by Gres c1981

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Alix by Gres: launched in 1981, in USA by 1982. Sometimes the bottle will be marked "Alix Gres" other times it will simply say "Gres".




So what did it smell like? It was a floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
  • Middle notes: spices, galbanum, flowers
  • Base notes: labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, cedar
Discontinued, date unknown.

Evil by Elvira c1990

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Elvira, the Mistress of the Dark,  introduced a perfume in 1990 that boasted cruelty-free production. The fragrance, Evil by Elvira, was developed by Florasynth, an essential oil supplier that uses no animal testing or animal ingredients. The perfume was to be distributed in 15,000 chain drug stores. A portion of the sales for the $7.95 .8 oz and the $11.95 1.7 oz would be donated to PETA. Cassandra Peterson, who plays Elvira is a spokeswoman for PETA.

Click HERE to find Evil by Elvira 


 As for the perfumes strange name, Elvira reminded us that evil is “live” spelled backwards. The perfume's tagline was "a dreadfully serious fragrance."

"Elvira, Mistress of the Dark," was described by film critic Robert Ebert as a "cross between Mae West and Vampirella."

The box is marked "Cruelty Free-No Animal Testing-No Animal Ingredients." Cologne Spray 1.7 fl ozs.


ARTICLES OF INTEREST:


From an interview with the AV Club in 2009:

AVC: What did Evil smell like?
CP: It actually smelled really good. The guys that did it for me worked on the really high-end perfume at the time, which I think was Black Diamond by Elizabeth Taylor? [White Diamonds.—ed.] Initially they wanted us to release it in high-end department stores, but I said, “No way. My audience is trailer-park trash. We need to put this in drugstores for five bucks a bottle.” It’s like, I got approached to do a wine one time. And I was like, “Mm-mm. Elvira’s not a wine-drinking gal. She drinks beer.” I know my audience, and it’s not that high-class. [Laughs.] If you like me, you’re either white trash or gay. Just kidding! Nope, not kidding."


The Elvira character has spun-off numerous merchandising including a line of cosmetics featuring black fingernail polish and lipstick.


Elvira, Mistress of the Dark's signature scent that was marketed/sold in 1990. The perfume comes with the original Promo kit/ordering folder that was sent to retail stores for promotion. This was purchased at Cassandra "Elvira" Peterson's moving sale in Hollywood on Friday the 13th of January 2006.

Here is an article from 1990 about the launch of the perfume:

"Evil by Elvira: a dreadfully serious fragrance. (interview with Elvira Perfumes president Bob Bauman and vice president David J. Kuff) (interview)

Drug & Cosmetic Industry | September 01, 1990 | Hoppe, Karen

Celebrity fragrances come and go, with few exceptions, but here's one with a twist: Evil by Elvira, from the self-proclaimed "Mistress of the Dark" personality (a.k.a. Cassandra Peterson). Other than the fact that this fragrance is from a character, though, there are two other striking differences about this product - it is positioned directly to the mass market consumer and it carries the PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) seal of approval on its packaging, stating that it is cruelty-free." And, if her recent P.A. (Personal Appearance) at the NACDS (National Assn. of Chain Drug Stores) meeting is any indication of future sales, Elvira Perfumes (based in Santa Fe Springs, CA) will have a hard time keeping product on-shelf. The team of industry veteran Bob Bauman (president) and David J. Kuff (vp/marketing) discussed this unique entry with DCI. 
DCI: How did this venture come about? 
Bauman: Elvira enjoys extraordinary popularity. Her "Movie Macabre" series reaches millions of TV viewers, she's starred in her own feature film, makes numerous personal appearances, and is a hot-selling property in products ranging from videotapes, computer software, and comic books to pinball machines, T-shirts and more. We approached her because we felt that she was very open for a fragrance. She has specific likes in terms of fragrance - animal testing is something very, very significant for her. She is vehemently against animal testing, so from the beginning we've adopted a strong cruelty-free stance. As a company, we've joined PETA and on every display and on every package we have their symbol and the line "cruelty-free - no animal ingredients or testing." In addition, Elvira really felt that she had something to say in terms of a fragrance. She had some fragrances that she used, but she wasn't thrilled with any of them. So, she worked with Florasynth's perfumers, giving her input, to develop the fragrance. And there are two big truisms about this partnership from the very beginning. The first is that we knew and suspected that she'd be good, but the truth is, she's incredible! This is not based on our presumptions, but on feedback from the 23 salespersons who have been out in the field for the past four months, pounding the pavement. The feedback we've gotten about her is just uncanny. Wherever she's been, they remember her. They know her, and, as important as this fact is, they like her. Women love her! When we were at the NACDS, there were over 150 buyers, mostly women, who waited on line to have their picture taken with Elvira ! DCI: How would you characterize her appeal? 
Bauman: Elvira is at ease with herself. The whole message of "don't take it so seriously, life is short, you've gotta relax and take it easy" appeals to people. The other thing is that she talks to them on their own level. There is nothing condescending, nothing about her that talks down to people. She's self-depreciating, not intimidating. A typical line of hers when making a P.A. is " I said to Bob, you've gotta make a fragrance for me, and it's gotta be beautiful like me and it's gotta be cheap like me ... ! The other thing is that she's a very strong lady - and once you get past the titillation and all that other stuff, people sense that she's not a pushover or an easy mark. And she's got across-the-board appeal, from young to old.
Kuff: Elvira's very popular in Australia, the United Kingdom, and other foreign countries. She was signed last year as Pepsi spokesperson for two of its brands, a $7 million dollar promotion, and was renewed this year. 
DCI: So this fragrance won't suffer for lack of personal promotion. 
Bauman: The Pepsi association alone gives her enormous presence. And, of course, we will capitalize on her P.A.'s on talk shows and elsewhere - she's pretty much in demand for those sort of things. 
Kuff: We've already been featured in T.V. Guide and many regional newspapers, including Chicago and Miami, and we're not even on shelf ! 
DCI: How would you characterize Evil? 
Bauman: We really think that most of the fragrances out there, mass as well as the other market, are generally very serious. They take their position seriously, they come across in a way that's a little serious. We think that women are open to something a little bit different. it's tough out there! We felt that perhaps women are looking for something uplifting, a little bit of fun, flaky, off-the-wall ... a little bit of a lighter approach, not so dreadfully serious. Elvira represents that kind of a thing. 
Kuff: And for all her zaniness, campiness, and so forth, Elvira's fragrance is a really high-quality fragrance. it may be presented in what I would call a drugstore/mass market package, but it is dreadfully serious. Quite a contradiction. 
Bauman: It is an effusive, long-lasting floral/oriental, very pretty on top (which helps to minimalize the alcohol note). This is not a novelty fragrance. 
DCI: So your pitch is off-the-wall, but your product is not. 
Bauman: That's right. 
DCI: Do you have plans for a big print ad push, or will you rely on P.A.s? 
Kuff: Personal appearances, definitely, with major chain stores. Elvira will of course be doing many public appearances on major television shows, The Tonight Show and others of that ilk, and will be promoting Evil by Elvira. Our first press conference generated tons of editorial, and we'll probably do another conference in the fourth quarter. We'll also launch a print campaign in the fourth quarter, targeting a number of women's specialty publications. We're a very, very marketing-driven company - we'll be doing some radio promotions in key markets, perhaps some outdoor promos - a very strategic mix of target marketing. 
Bauman: There'll be some national advertising, backed by target market promotion and very aggressive co-op with the chains. And because we feel so strongly about Evil, we're going to do fragrance vials, a lot of fragrance vials, and tie them into co-op programs.
Kuff: The calendar is jammed up with personal appearances, including a big fundraiser for PETA at Carnegie Hall, and since Elvira does so well with them, they're something we're really looking forward to. The three or four we've done so far have been smashes, standing-room-only!
 DCI: So you've kept in mind that when the number of personal appearances slack off, so do sales. 
Bauman: Absolutely. We're also discussing bringing her in to speak at meetings that the various major chains have with their respective sales forces. We think she can create a lot of excitement and momentum there, as well as the in-store appearances. You also have to remember that most of the celebrity fragrances out there are department store; we are not. At our high-end, we're $11.95 for the 1.7 ounce spray. The buyers love our pricing, incidentally, and when we talk to them, we make the point that we feel times are tough, so it's not a time for us to go atter higher prices. We're shipping an introductory teaser," which is a half ounce at $4.95. 
Kuff: We're taking a different tact. Obviously, we're not a department store fragrance, not a designer/ celebrity fragrance, and we're not going after the high-end department stores. We've carved our niche. 
DCI: You'll be on-counter mid-September - was this planned to coincide with the Halloween period? 
Bauman: We're obviously capitalizing on the fact that in October, which is her time, Pepsi is spending its $7 million. She's going to get maximum press, and we're going to be there. However, we're not talking about ourselves as Halloween because the last thing we want a buyer to think of us is strictly in that time-frame and wrap us up on November 1. October is also a good time to be on-counter because there's a little extra space there since it's the deadest time for fragrance, with everyone getting ready for Christmas.
DCI: What about the future?
 
Bauman: This is not a one-shot deal. The most probable line extension will be some kind of lotion, then perhaps a lighter, splash form of the fragrance. We feel strongly about cosmetics - carded products such as "Elvira Lips," Elvira Eyes," Elvira Nails" and we've gotten good preliminary feedback from some of the chains about doing a carded cosmetics line. There's another women's fragrance in the working stages and we think that there's very good potential for a men's fragrance.


Pursuit by Jacqueline Cochran c1948

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Pursuit by Jacqueline Cochran: launched in 1948. From trademark and patent records, she filed a trademark for the name in 1941, but it wasn't launched as a perfume until after WWII. The name derives from a type of airplane, the Seversky Pursuit plane 9, that aviatrix Jacqueline Cochran flew to win the prestigious Bendix Trophy Race in 1938.

Pursuit, the fragrance, was available in the following forms:

  • Parfum
  • Skin Perfume
  • Cologne
  • Cologne Spray
  • Eau De Toilette
  • Aerosol After bath spray
  • Soap
  • Bath Powder

Click HERE to find Pursuit by Jacqueline Cochran


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes:
Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1966.

Woman's Home Companion - Volume 77, 1950:
"Jacqueline Cochran's tinsel plane to twinkle on your tree. It carries a flacon of Pursuit perfume, $1.50."

El Paso Herald, 1949:
"The newest fragrance for her Christmas gift 'Pursuit' by Jacqueline Cochran. In Pursuit, Jacqueline Cochran captures the spirit of the chase. Pursuit ...spicy but nice...lingering and airy. The beautifully modern bottles, soft blue and gold striped cartons are designed to reflect the idea of your own pursuit."


Parfums Paul Premet

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A couture house established by Mme Premet in 1903; moved to 8 place Vendome, Paris in 1911; introduced fragrances in 1924. Famous for her urchin ‘La Garconne’ cut hairstyle and her short simple boyish dress designs.


The perfumes of Paul Premet:

  • 1915 12-34 de Premet
  • 1917 Clo-Clo(Presented in a flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat design #360)
  • 1920 La Colonne Vendome
  • 1924 Brise Impériale
  • 1925 Étrange Inconnu (This is the re-branded fragrance 'Clo-Clo')
  • 1925 Le Secret de Premet
  • 1930 Pour un Oui
  • Silhouette
  • Tanagra


Jean-Paul Giraud et Fils

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Jean Giraud Son, established in 1853 as Giraud Freres, later known as J. Giraud Son Acquired by various essential oils Producers in Grasse: such as Honore Joseph Sozio, Changed name to J. Giraud Fils in 1900. They Had wide exports to South America. Products sub-titled 'Principle of Flowers''

 The perfumes of Giraud et Fils:
  • 1890 Essence Concentrée L'Iris Blanc
  • 1890 Lavande des Alpes
  • 1900 Eau de Cologne Ambrée (an oriental fragrance)
  • 1906 Parfum Rêvé 
  • 1906 Fleur de Lavande
  • 1906 Fleur de Muguet
  • 1906 Fleur de Violette
  • 1906 Fleurs de Rose
  • 1906 Genêt de Estérel
  • 1906 Rosat-Genium
  • 1911 Fleur Mimosa
  • 1917 Bouquet Egyptien
  • 1918 Mariana  
  • 1919 Le Cyclamen
  • 1919 Veraflor 
  • 1920 Dans les Nuits
  • 1920 Aux Fleurs de Jasmin
  • 1920 Eau de Cologne Supérieure
  • 1920 Eau de Rose Concentrée
  • 1920 Folavril
  • 1920 Frago
  • 1920 Le Jasmin
  • 1920 Les Fleurs de Nice
  • 1920 Madapril
  • 1920 Mystèriose
  • 1920 Japtis Parfum
  • 1920 Idilio
  • 1920 Cassiris
  • 1922 L’Ambré
  • 1922 La Rose
  • 1922 La Violette
  • 1922 Le Chypre
  • 1922 Le Cougourdon Provencia
  • 1922 Royal Bouquet
  • 1922 En Nue
  • 1922 Lysmina
  • 1922 Odorantis
  • 1922 L’Œillet
  • 1923 Maflor
  • 1926 La Soirée
  • 1927 Saga-Zain
  • 1932 Fils Orana
  • 1932 Orana
  • Au Muguet des Alpés
  • Bandoline aux Fleurs
  • Blanch
  • Cattleya
  • Cuir de Russe
  • Cupidon
  • Eau de Toilette aux Violettes d'Italie
  • Elder Flower Water
  • Enciting Perfumes
  • Floretta
  • Fougère en France
  • Rencontre
  • Rodoll
  • Vridiflor Fougère

Chemist and Druggist, 1889"
"The essential oils and pomades of M. Jean Giraud Fils of Grasse are not unfamiliar in the English markets or in Australasia the firm having been awarded a high distinction at last year's Melboume Exhibition. In Paris also, M. Giraud Fils has a tasteful and rich exhibit not only of raw products but likewise of prepared toilet waters, eau de Cologne, and other put up goods, in fact, when the firm was first established some thirty two years ago, its business, we believe, was that of manufacturing perfumers, and the distilling business, which now appears to be the principal branch, was afterwards added to it. Now, the establishment at Grasse is stated to be fitted with all the newest distilling and pressing machinery, and with a freezing apparatus by means of which, extracts by subjecting them to a very low temperature, are freed from any adhering fatty parts, which would render them cloudy in a cold climate. The distillation of scented woods, and the preparation of sachet powders also fall within the scope of M. Giraud's business, and we understand that all the cases in which his goods are exported are manufactured on the premises of the firm. 





Envol by Ted Lapidus c1980

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 Envol by Ted Lapidu: launched in 1980, in USA by 1981. Envol means "flight" in French. "I gave it that light name, spacious and airy, because it is the perfume of space, of night and time,” Ted Lapidus.

The perfume was created by Roger Pellegrino modeled on the eponymous Lancome perfume from the 1950s. Envol is a green scent enriched with notes of flowers (roses and jasmine) and fruits and the dry background of woods, musk, amber and earthy tones. Available as pure perfume, Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum. You can read more on this here.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, galbanum
  • Middle notes: lily, rose, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine
  • Base notes: oak moss, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, patchouli

In the early 1980s, Ted Lapidus bought the license to produce Envol  perfume from Lancome and sold it under his own name as well as a Lancome branded perfumed deodorant spray for a short time. This was reformulated by Roger Pellegrino from the original Lancome version. Both the Ted Lapidus Envol and the packaging for the Lancome Envol deodorant spray have the same theme.



So what does the reformulated version smell like? It is classified as a sharp, floral chypre perfume for women with a more pronounced ozonic aldehyde note with fruity and woody notes. 

  • Top notes: aldehydes, citrus notes, narcissus, hyacinth, 
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, tuberose, fruits, galbanum
  • Base notes: myrrh, patchouli, musk, leather, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss

Click HERE to find Envol by Ted Lapidus


Envol by Ted Lapidus was available in the following:
  • Parfum/Perfume
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 6.8 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • Eau de Parfum


Discontinued by 1991.

Richard D. Young Perfumery Co.

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The Richard D. Young Perfumery Co. was located at 351 Broadway New York City, another address was listed at 100 William Street New York City.



 Their trade-mark was a 'Y' in flour leaf-clover.

You can read more here on Richard D. Young and his association with Lundborg Perfumery as well as his part in the company Young, Ladd & Coffin.

Pharmaceutical Record and Weekly Market Review, Volume 10, 1890:
"Young's perfumes are continually gaining ground in finding new localities and purchasers, and it is claimed that their staying qualities both in business and persistence of odor are a certainty. Lily Bells and Wild Woodbine are new odors of very acceptable and popular character."

The Pharmaceutical Era, Volume 13, 1895:
"The Young Perfumery Co recently organized has no connection with Richard D. Young Perfumery Co, officers are President George Carra gan ,Vice President MR Cook, Treasurer HN Cook, Secretary WP Young, Richard D Young is the manager and the concern has temporary offices at No 144 Franklin Street."

Merck Report, Volume 5, 1896:
"RICHARD D. YOUNG PERFUMERY CO. The Richard D. Young Perfumery Company of No. 148 Duane Street is one of the bestknown concerns of the perfumery trade, and a short time ago, another firm known as the Young Perfumery Company applied to the Supreme Court for the appointment of a receiver. Immediately, a misapprehenslon as to the identity of the two houses arose in the trade, and caused some temporary annoyance to the Richard D. Young Perfumery Company. This concern is widely known and highly respected, and does a large business in all grades of perfumery, it ranks among the leading houses of the trade. As a flourishing commercial house, the Richard D. Young Perfumery Company owes much to the enterprise, and energetic management of its president, Mr A. W. Rice." 


Fragrance list:
  • 1888 Bouquet Araby
  • 1888 Prairie Wild
  • 1890 Lily-Bells
  • 1890 Persian Flowers
  • 1890 Wild Woodbine
  • 1890 Opoponax
  • 1890 Patchouly
  • 1890 Puritan Rose
  • 1890 Stephanotis
  • 1890 Violet
  • 1890 Young's Refreshing Cologne
  • 1890 Florida Water
  • 1890 Lavender Toilet Water
  • 1890 Violet Toilet Water
  • 1890 White Heliotrope Toilet Water
  • 1890 Melaura
  • 1890 Wistaria Bloom
  • 1890 Perfect Violet
  • 1890 White Heliotrope
  • 1890 Young's Triple Extract Lily of the Valley
  • 1892 American Tea Olive
  • 1892 Jockey Club
  • 1892 New Mown Hay
  • 1900 White Lilac
  • 1908 Clover Normandie
  • 1908 Lillita
  • 1908 Majestic
  • 1910 Perfect Musk
  • 1910 Shamrock Blossom
  • 1910 Sweet Memories
  • 1910 Yvonne





Byzance by Grenoville c1926

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 Byzance by Grenoville, was originally launched under the name Nikys in 1926, but was quickly changed to Byzance, for reasons unknown. It could be that a rival perfumer already trademarked the name Nikys prior to Grenoville.




So what does it smell like? it is classified as a white floral fragrance for women. In old advertisements, it was described as "a splendid gardenia of the sharp, tuberose kind."
  • Top notes;
  • Middle notes: gardenia and tuberose
  • Base notes:

Click HERE to find Byzance by Grenoville


Byzance was Grenoville's best selling fragrance, and their Casanova fragrance was their second best.

Exportation of Grenoville's perfumes was halted during WWII, but resumed after the war, but a little later than most, in 1948.


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 45, 1939:
"GRENOVILLE Les Grands Parfums, Inc., presents the entire Grenoville line in new outstanding presentations, in various containers priced from $6 to $105. Byzance perfume, the most popular, is a subtle blend of the gardenia fragrance."
The New Yorker, 1940:
"Grenoville: Byzance, a sharp gardenia perfume which perennially represents glamour to girls-about-town ; $6."

Byzance by Grenoville Baccarat crystal bottle, molded as a stepped rectangle, with matching crystal stopper with matching design. The bottle is signed on the base with the Baccarat engraved stamp. The box is covered with gold paper and decorated with a stylized Art Deco rose motif on the top and on a frieze which wraps around the box. The box is lined with ivory silk satin and the perfume sits inside of a fitted section covered in gold paper. Approximate measurements;  Bottle; Height 3 1/4" x 3 1/4" wide x 3 1/4" deep. Box; Height 4 3/4" x 5 1/2" wide x 6" deep.



Byzance by Grenoville perfume bottle made up of heavy, opaque black glass with gold foil label marked "Byzance Grenoville Paris". Bottle is acid stamped "Made in France" on the base. This bottle design was manufactured by Verreries Brosse in three sizes:  small 2 1/2" tall, medium 3 1/4" tall and  large 4" tall.



Grenoville "Byzance" opaque frosted and polished black glass bottle molded with Greek key motif, topped with glass inner stopper and outer metal cap. The bottle has that great textured design, on both sides. Approx 2 and 1/2" tall.

 

Grenoville "Byzance" frosted glass bottle molded with Greek key motif, topped with glass inner stopper and outer metal cap. The bottle has that great textured design, on both sides. Approx 2 and 1/2" tall. This bottle also came in a larger size of 3.3" tall.


Byzance Mini Perfume Bottle by Grenoville 2-1/4" tall. The bottle is black glass molded with tiny hobnails, topped with a black plastic cap and a brass over cap. Silver foil floral embossed label on the front of the bottle.  "GRENOVILLE - Made in France" molded on the base of the bottle. 





Standard clear cylindrical glass bottle that was also used for other Grenoville perfumes. This bottle stands 3" tall and has a heavy, cast white metal pinecone screw cap. This bottle was 



the miniature perfume bottle is an exact replica of the standard bottle that is shown above. The bottle is 2" tall  and decorated with applied shell flowers. 

Cylindrical clear crystal perfume bottle in a squatty inkwell shape with brass screw cap. Marked: “Parfum Byzance – Grenoville – Paris”.
Measures:  5 cm height  x  5,5 cm diameter.



Byzance by Grenoville frosted glass bottle with gilded foil label on the front. The bottle reminds me of the one that dressmaker's dummy bottle used by Schiaparelli for her perfume Shocking. Base is embossed with Grenoville France. Frosted glass stopper. Bottle stands approx. 3 1/3" tall x 1 3/4" wide


Auzière

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Auzière of Paris and Marseille, France; launched a range of fragrances from c1920 to 1950’s, also had an office in Nashville, TN.


The perfumes of Auziere:
  • 1920 Grisentis
  • 1920 Secret d'Amour
  • 1920 Parfum un Soir
  • 1920 En Cueillant Des Fleurs
  • 1920 Brin de Rose
  • 1920 Brise Troublante
  • 1920 de Soir
  • 1920 Un Soir
  • 1920 Vallon Fleuri (presented in a bottle designed by Julien Viard and produced by Depinoix)
  • 1922 Zeth (presented in a bottle designed by Julien Viard and produced by Depinoix)
  • 1925 Mimosa
  • 1930 Eau de Lavande des Alpes
  • 1940 Eau de Cologne La Francais
  • 1947 Secret d'Amour (relaunched)
  • 1953 Candeur des Pyrenees

Nocturne by Barbara Gould c1952

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Nocturne by Barbara Gould: launched in 1952. When the fragrance debuted at B. Altman's department store, a female harpist strummed along the notes to Chopin's Nocturne. Harpist Evans was dressed to match the "Nocturne" bottle, in a gold dome hat by Sally Victor and a chic black sheath dress.

Nocturne was available in parfum, eau de cologne, cologne stick, bubble bath oil and bath powder. A cylindrical purse bottle was crowned with a circlet of faux pearls.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange and citronella
  • Middle notes: rose, carnation, cloves, cinnamon,  
  • Base notes: cedar, patchouli, opoponax, vanilla, oakmoss, sandalwood, benzoin, ambergris
There are no published notes to be found anywhere, so I am using a vintage 1950s perfume nip to finish this article. I applied a few drops of the perfume to the back of my hand and some onto a piece of tissue paper. On my skin, I immediately smell a quick burst of effervescent aldehydes and the bracing citrus notes of bergamot, orange and citronella. Rose and carnation lend a sumptuous floral heart. Then a delightful alchemy of the balsamic notes of benzoin and vanilla and the spicy notes from the cinnamon and cloves mingle with the orange note, which to me smells like an orange pomander rolled in vanilla beans and cinnamon then studded with cloves. Luxurious woodsy notes from the patchouli, sandalwood and the cedar add to the opulence of the composition. Ambergris and opoponax evoke a powdery cola note that heightens the sweetness. The oakmoss adds a delicate fuzzy finish to the perfume.

On paper, the spiciness and the sweetness is barely there and the woodsy notes are much more apparent. The cedar note is more intense on paper than on the skin.

Click HERE to find Nocturne by Barbara Gould


Discontinued, date unknown.


The Mason City Globe-Gazette, 1952:
"NOCTURNE By Barbara Gould The new fragrance that puts a song in your heart. It's such a lilting scent, delightfully gay, yet wistfully tender. It's Bach, Debussy, and Basin Street, gracious, capricious, and utterly delicious! Wear Nocturne now . . . you'll positively adore it. "

What are Woody Fragrances?

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Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Woody:

fragrances derive their scents from aromatic woods such as sandalwood, patchouli, aloes, cedar, agarwood (oud), rosewood, cypress, tobacco, tonka, pine and scents like oak moss which are reminiscent of the odor of the forest floor. Usually accompanied by other notes such as citrus, herbs, spices, incense, and balsamic notes like vanilla or benzoin. Animalic notes such as ambergris, leather, musk, castoreum and civet often give depth to woody fragrances and enhance their longevity.

The subdivisions of classifications in this family are:
  • Woody Amber
  • Woody Aquatic
  • Woody Aromatic
  • Woody Chypre
  • Woody Floral 
  • Woody Floral Musk
  • Woody Hesperidic Coniferous
  • Woody Oriental
  • Woody Spicy
  • Woody Spicy Leather



          • Perfumes which are classified as Woody are:
            • L’Eau d’Issey by Issey Miyake
            • Feminite du Bois by Shiseido
            • Organza by Givenchy
            • Replique by Raphael
            • Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford
            • Green Jeans by Versace
            • Sensuous by Estee Lauder
            • Amarige by Givenchy
            • Nero Assoluto by Roberto Cavalli
            • Miss Balmain by Pierre Balmain
            • Panthere by Cartier
            • M7 Fresh by Yves Saint Laurent
            • Rogart by Molton Brown
            • Play For Her Intense by Givenchy
            • Aromatics Elixir by Clinique
            • Essence Wenge by Donna Karan
            • Nocturnes by Caron
            • Sahara Noir by Tom Ford
            • Gucci by Gucci
            • Feuilles de Tabac by Miller Harris
            • Chene by Serge Lutens
            • Parfum d’Habit by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
            • Hermessence Santal Massoïa by Hermes
            • Vetiver by Guerlain
            • Elle Intense by Yves Saint Laurent
            • Monsieur Carven
            • Body by Burberry
            • Womanity by Thierry Mugler
            • Cadjmere by Parfumerie Generale
            • Krizia Uomo
            • Antaeus by Chanel
            • Dzing! by L'Artisan
            • L`Anarchiste by Caron
            • Sandal Sliver by Montale

            Miahati Perfumes

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             Established in 1940 in New York; launched a range of fragrances in c1940' and 50's.

            In 1940, Andrew Apicella and Rose Vivaudou organized Miahati, Inc., and thereafter transacted their business in the said corporate name.

            Andrew Apicella, traded variously under several names such as Oceanic Import Co., Abbott Manufacturing Co. and Miahati, Inc., put out a line of perfumes that he has been advertising as originating from the Famous Gardens of Miahati in Hawaii, unfortunately, no such place existed and the perfume manufacturer was summoned before the FTC. The FTC directed Miahati, Inc. (Manhattan), to stop representing that perfumes made in the U.S. come from Hawaii. However, when Hawaii became a US state in 1959, I am sure they may have been able to use the Hawaiian origination in their ads.

            Their perfumes were made from exotic varicolored hibiscus, pikake (jasmine), honeysuckle and other tropical flowers such as ylang ylang.


            • 1939 Honolulu
            • 1939 Ka Lani Keia
            • 1939 Pikaki
            • 1939 Waikiki
            • 1940 Soul of the Flowers
            • 1941 Old Mission
            • 1941 Old Mission - Crocus
            • 1941 Old Mission - Rosemary
            • 1941 Old Mission - Verbena
            • 1941 Ye Olde Wishing Well
            • 1942 El Morocco
            • 1944 Blue Fox (an oriental perfume)
            • 1944 Audacious (a fruity floral perfume)
            • 1944 Downing Street (for men)
            • 1950 Tarantella
            • 1950 Tomorrow
            • 1955 Jaunty (a floral perfume)
            • 1955 My Fancy (an aldehydic perfume)
            • Four Moods
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