Quantcast
Channel: Cleopatra's Boudoir
Viewing all 991 articles
Browse latest View live

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay c1960

$
0
0
Voulez Vous by D'Orsay: launched in 1960.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women with green, woodsy, and fruity notes.
  • Top notes: galbanum, bergamot, hyacinth, fruity citrus notes
  • Middle notes: rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, spices, orange blossom
  • Base notes: vetiver, oakmoss, cedar, tobacco, sandalwood, musk, leather, patchouli, civet, tonka, amber


Bottles:


The parfum was housed in square bottles with glass stoppers.

The fragrance was available in the following:

  • 1/4 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • Perfume "Dramatizer"
  • Purse Atomizer
  • Purse Flaconette
  • Refillable Concentrate Mist
  • Eau de Toilette
  • Skin Essence (parfum)





Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1972.



Colmy Parfums

$
0
0
Established by Edouard Colmant at 348 rue Saint-Honoré, Paris; also owned Parfumerie E. Coudray.








The perfumes of Colmy:

  • 1925 C’est Un Secret
  • 1925 Chypre 
  • 1926 Rose
  • 1926 Lilas
  • 1926 Muguet
  • 1927 Tuberia de Colmy
  • 1927 Dans Reve
  • 1930 Jasmin
  • 1930 Pois de Senteur
  • 1930 Reve de Glovie/Reve de Gloire?

Bottles:


The bottle for C'Est Un Secret was designed by Julien Viard and consists of an ovoid shape, with a scene of a swallow flying amongst clouds in the Japonesque style. This exquisite bottle recently sold in 2015 for an astounding auction price of $16,000 at the annual auction for the International Perfume Bottle Association.







Miracle by Lentheric c1924

$
0
0
Miracle by Lentheric was launched in 1924 and named after the Max Reinhardt play starring actress Diana Manners.

 Lentheric issued it's perfume alongside the U.S. premiere of the elaborate pantomime 'The Miracle', which opened at the Century Theatre in New York City on January 15, 1924. The back of the program had a full page advertisement for the perfume. The program was by Karl Vollmoeller, the score by Englebert Humperdinck, and the design by Norman Bel Geddes. Among the many illustrations, are two full-page ink and watercolor renderings of costumes by Norman Bel Geddes.




Miracle was available in the following forms:
  • Parfum (also known as extract/extrait)
  • Bouquet Miracle (a double strength eau de cologne)
  • Eau de Cologne
  • Dusting Powder
  • Powder Sachet
  • Creme Bouquet (cream sachet)
  • Soap
  • Talc
  • Bath Salts
  • Brilliantine
  • Face powder and compacts

1925 ad


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral leather chypre fragrance for women. Consists of a mixed bouquet of flowers and herbs, just slightly spiced with carnation and lilies, on a leathery chypre base.
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, lilac, coriander, jasmine, rose geranium, hyssop, verbena
  • Middle notes: carnation, lily, camphor, iris, lavender, rosemary, thyme, tarragon, sage, oregano, basil.
  • Base notes: carrot seed, orris, pine, sandalwood, Moroccan cedar, patchouli, civet, vanilla, leather, oakmoss

I just tested a small amount on my skin from a sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells mossy and very aldehydic with a dominant bergamot, verbena and lemon blend. Then a bouquet garni or Herbes de Provence of herbal notes start breaking through: rosemary, coriander, tarragon, thyme, basil, sage, oregano and lavender. I do smell a medicinal camphor note in here too, probably from the herbs. A lovely woody base of cedar, pine and sandalwood punctuated by patchouli and oakmoss is left in the drydown.

On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy and citric, but the herbal notes are not as apparent and would need the warmth of the skin to bring them into fruition. The woodsy notes of pine and cedar are strong.


Bottles:


Black Crystal Floating Gold Parfum Flacon:

Presented in a unique black crystal bottle w/ real gold dust in the glass, called "floating gold". Deluxe flacon was made by Baccarat, designed by Georges Dumoulin, the smaller bottles were made by Depinoix. Black bakelite stopper cover. Base acid stamped Made in France.

Bottle came in three sizes:

  • 5 7/8" tall
  • 4 1/2" tall
  • 3 1/8" tall

Hearst's, 1929:
"Inevitably they return with a zealously guarded bottle of this most exquisite perfume of Guillaume Lentheric — a bottle in onyx and sprayed gold, full of tiny drops — within each drop, forever trapped, the quick sweet scents of fragile living flowers."








Baccarat/Val St Lambert - Blue Edged Parfum Flacon:

Another early bottle used for Miracle, circa 1920s, square bottle in cased blue and clear crystal, with stopper, metal cover and label. Stenciled 'Val St. Lambert'. Bottle stands 3 1/2". This bottle was also made by Baccarat, and can be found with green cased glass used for perfume Ambre Mousse (perfume itself was originally launched in 1912). This is Baccarat model number 298 created in 1916.

Another early bottle for Miracle, circa 1920s, square bottle in cased blue and clear crystal, with stopper, metal cover and label. Stenciled 'Val St. Lambert'. Ht. 3 1/2". This bottle was also made by Baccarat, and can be found with green cased glass used for the 1912 Lentheric perfume 'Ambre Mousse'.


Frosted Grecian Capital Parfum Flacon:

Starting in 1936, Miracle was presented in a frosted and clear glass bottle made by Verreries Brosse, it's design features scrolling motifs on each side. The bottle was designed by Frank McIntosh and received a U.S. patent May 27, 1936. This bottle replaced the very expensive to manufacture black "floating gold" Baccarat/Depinoix bottle.

This bottle came in several sizes.
  • Mini perfume -1/8 oz = 1-5/16" tall x 1-9/16" wide.
  • Half ounce = 2" tall x 2-1/2" wide.
  • One ounce =2-5/8" tall and 3-1/2" wide 
  • Two ounce -
  • Four ounce = 3 1/4" tall by 4 1/4" wide.
  • Eight ounce = 4" tall x 5 1/4" wide.

Travel, 1936:
"A flacon of arresting beauty — replica in crystal of the capital of a Grecian column, with classic lines and graceful scrolls."








Czech Controlled Bubble Parfum Flacons:


Also presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, cerulean blue for Miracle, softened rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, green for Au Fil de L'Eau, green for Foret Vierge, mirror clear for Asphodele, champagne for Tweed, and Numero Douze in amber. Bottle stands 4" tall.


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1935:
"LENTHERIC'S Bubble Bottle comes in blue, clear, rose, amber or green. The glass is full of tiny bubbles and the whole bottle looks like one large bubble itself. Numero Douze, Miracle, Asphodele, and Le Pirate are the perfumes bottled in this way."









Orrefors Crystal Parfum Flacons:

In 1936, a trio of crystal bottles was introduced manufactured by Orrefors to hold Tweed, Gardenia de Tahiti and Miracle. Each bottle was etched with a different design on the front and was topped by a frosted glass spire like stopper. The vaulted top box was covered in silver and blue paper. The bottles are often unmarked for the Orrefors name and simply had hang tags which were usually lost over time, so most people are unaware that these were used by Lentheric.



Other bottles:




From a 1929 Lentheric catalog, Miracle was available in the following, with original prices:



Extract (boxed):
  • No. 2360 - 1/2 oz - $4.00
  • No. 1360 - 1 oz - $7.00
  • No. 360 - 2 oz - $12.50
  • No. 361 - 4 oz - $25.00
  • No. 362 - 8 oz $45.00

Toilet Water:
  • No. 370 - 4 oz - $6.00
  • No. 371 - 8 oz - $10.00
  • No. 372 - 16 oz - $18.00

Double Compact (with extra refill):
  • No. 100 - $2.50
  • Rouge: Pour Blonde, Medium, Pour Brune
  • Powder: Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche


Single Compact (with extra refill):
  • No. 101 - $1.00
  • Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche


Powder Refill (with puff for No. 101 and 100):
  • No. 103 - $0.50
  • Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche


Face Powder (with puff):
  • No. 105 - $1.00
  • Naturelle No. 1
  • Naturelle No. 2
  • Naturelle No. 3
  • Rachel No. 1
  • Rachel No. 2
  • Summer Tan
  • Ocre
  • Ocre Rose
  • Blanche

Talcum Powder
  • No. 110 - 4 1/2 oz - $1.00
  • Summer Tan
  • White

Dusting Powder (with puff)
  • No. 115 - $2.00

Bath Salts
  • No. 120 - small - $1.50
  • No. 121 - large - $2.50

Soaps (3 cakes to a box):
  • No. 130 - per cake - $1.00

Brilliantine:
  • No. 135 - Liquid - $1.50
  • No. 136 - Crystallized - $2.50

Sachet:
  • No. 140 - 1 oz - $2.00


Fate of the Fragrance:


Miracle was sold in other, less fancier bottles til the end of the 1960s, then it was discontinued, date unknown.

Note: Please understand that this website is not affiliated with the Lentheric company in any way, it is only a reference page for collectors and those who have enjoyed the Lentheric fragrances.  

The goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Lentheric company how much we miss the discontinued classics such as Miracle and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back the original formula of the perfume! 


Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the perfume, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories), who knows, perhaps someone from the company might see it.


What is Parfum de Toilette?

$
0
0
I get numerous questions about fragrance concentrations from my readers. People seem to be confused about terms such as "Parfum de Toilettes", to answer your queries, here is my easy guide to tell you what they really are.


Let's break it down from the top with Parfum.
Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. A parfum may contain up to 20-30 percent oils and high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water. Vintage Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfums can be composed up of natural and synthetic ingredients, no matter if they are vintage or modern. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume. Any mixture lower in oils is known as an eau.

Next in concentration is the Eau de Parfum.

Eau de Parfum, also known as Esprit de Parfum, Secret de Parfum, Millesime, or Parfum de Toilette, is composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. Vintage Eau de Parfum, Esprit de Parfum, or Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils and were highly concentrated. Eau de Parfums usually last about 4-8 hours. 

Parfum de Toilette first started being used around 1960 by Coty, followed by Revillon, Caron, Nina Ricci Rochas, Salvador Dali, Le Galion, Jean Desprez, Weil, Houbigant, Worth, Craven, Dolce & Gabbana and other brands. The timeframe for Parfum de Toilette usage was 1960-2000. The last time I saw "Parfum de Toilette" advertised in a newspaper was 1989. 

Christian Dior had both "Esprit de Parfum" for the Poison line, Dune, Miss Dior, Dioressence, Diorissimo and "Secret de Parfum", mostly for Opium. Oscar de la Renta had an Esprit de Parfum for his signature fragrance Oscar. 

Orlane had a Secret de Parfum for their scent Fleurs d'Orlane, as did Guerlain as a limited edition for Shalimar. 

Creed uses Millesime. According to Creed, the house hand-selects the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each “Millesime”, or Creed fragrance. Millesime indicates that The House of Creed has hand-selected the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each Creed fragrance. Creed Millesime fragrances are blends that consist of the highest-quality concentration of infused essential oils made from raw materials. Millesime can also refer to their fragrances being hand-crafted by our Master Perfumer, Olivier Creed.

Today most brands use the term Eau de Parfum, most of the other terms were used in vintage fragrances. Creed still uses the term Millesime.

.

Eau de Toilette: also called toilet water, is a much thinner dilution of the same materials, containing approximately only 4-10 percent of essential oils, in an even weaker alcohol and water mixture. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. Meant to be splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.


Lesser concentrations:


Eau de Cologne: for men or women, or aftershave, is further diluted, about 3-5 percent of essential oils, in an even still weaker alcohol and water mix. Usually lasts about 2 hours. Meant to be liberally splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates. Used for toning and refreshing the skin after bathing.


Eau Fraiche: this is the weakest form of fragrance on the market, a light toilet water similar to cologne or splash usually with 1-3 percent of essential oil in water and a higher grade of alcohol. Usually lasts for less than an hour. Meant to be liberally reapplied throughout the day for a refreshing feeling. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Voile de Parfum: also known as Eau Parfumée, Voile d'Été, Eau Sans Alcool, Brume de Parfum, Perfume Mist, is a non-alcoholic fragrance diluted with water and about 3-8 percent essential oils. Typically used to be worn during the warmer months at the beach or in warmer climates.

Les Parfums Dorilly

$
0
0
Les Parfums Dorilly was established in 1920 by M. Pommez at 4 rue de la Paix, Paris. Dorilly made luxury presentations in the 1920s. Later established the successful Parfums Marquay in 1947.









The perfumes of Dorilly:

  • 1925 Chypre Royal
  • 1925 Fin d'Automne 
  • 1925 Orient Royal
  • 1925 Parisienne Jolie
  • 1925 Pour Vous
  • 1925 Vanikoro
  • 1925 Paris
  • 1925 Violettes 
  • 1925 Padmavati
  • 1925 Lilas Cornelys



Bottles:








Vent Vert by Balmain c1947

$
0
0
Vent Vert by Balmain: launched in 1947. Created by Germaine Cellier of Roure perfumers.





Anticipating that couture clothes would not dominate fashion forever, Balmain opened his perfume business with Vent Vert. 

Pierre Balmain, in addition to Vent Vert and another scent called after his Elysees telephone number, and the smoky Miss Balmain, is associated for ever with Jolie Madame.



Fragrance Composition:



So what does the original formula smell like? It was classified as an astringent, leafy green floral fragrance for women. It begins with a green top, followed by a green floral heart, layered over a floral, mossy base.

  • Top notes: lemonwood, galbanum, gardenia, peach, bergamot, neroli, jonquil and violet leaf
  • Middle notes: orange blossom, geranium, orris, narcissus, basil, lily of the valley, freesia, rose, jasmine and hyacinth
  • Base notes: styrax, fresh hay, sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss and musk

Vent Vert is most unusual, it is made from the green elements — wild grasses and ferns, woods and bittersweet leaves. It is light and refreshing but not a bit sporty and extremely clean smelling without being remotely disinfectant like pine.

Vent Vert is regarded as the first ever ‘green-floral’ fragrance in the history of perfume manufacture and contained a huge dose of galbanum, a bold 8%. It set the standard for many fragrances to come such as Tweed by Lentheric, Diorling by Christian Dior, Green Water by Jacques Fath and Cabochard by Gres.


Fate of the Fragrance:

Revlon entered the fragrance market in 1960 when they purchased the famous Balmain scents, Vent Vert and Jolie Madame.

In 1969, Eau de Vent Vert was launched.

In 1991, the fragrance was reformulated by Calice Becker to downplay the galbanum and geranium to appeal to a wider market.

In Perfumes: The A to Z Guide, author Luca Turin notes that the reformulation was due to the original perfume "bases", (pre-fab accords of various ingredients which help make up a fragrance) becoming harder and harder to acquire for manufacturing Vent Vert, therefore a change had to be made. Becker realized that the original scent of Vent Vert was composed up of nearly eleven hundred different ingredients, and that the new formula had been whittled down to just thirty one.

So what does the first reformulation smell like? It is classified as a classic green fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, jonquil and violet leaf
  • Middle notes: hyacinth, narcissus, basil, galbanum, lily of the valley, freesia, rose, jasmine and hyacinth
  • Base notes: sage, sandalwood, oak moss and musk


This version was presented in simple square clear bottle with a green top reminiscent of a clump of grass bent by the wind.


In 1999, Vent Vert was reformulated by Nathalie Feisthauer and relaunched for a second time. Unfortunately, to the chagrin of many of Vent Vert's devotees who trudged forth with the first reformulation, they hated the newest incarnation which proved to be the death knell of the old classic.

  • Top notes: green notes, orange blossom, lemon, asafoetida, peach, lime, basil, bergamot and neroli
  • Middle notes: spices, jasmine, rose, galbanum, lily of the valley, freesia, hyacinth, marigold, ylang-ylang, violet
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, sage, iris, Guaîac wood, amber, musk, sage, vetiver, styrax and cedar.



By 2010, it was reformulated again and relaunched. Reading the various reviews online, it seems that this version is much more forgiving than the last and the general consensus is that while it is not the same as the original, it is better than the last.

This version is housed in the clear glass cube shaped bottle topped with a silvery round ball, some liken to a golf ball, and decorated with a green and white polka dotted grosgrain ribbon.

From Balmain:
"Vent Vert, mythical perfume, embodies the distinguished elegance which tricks time and fashion. The nobility of the galbanum, used in overdose for the first time in history, delivers with impertinence, all its fresh and green density. The alliance of hesperidics and basil mixed with the delicacy of a floral heart strengthen this insolent, amazing, incisive, green breeze. The drydrown is textured by creamy and vibrating woods, revealing a powerful trail printed with authenticity and pureness."



Asphodele by Lentheric c1926

$
0
0
Asphodele by Lentheric: launched in 1926, pronounced "As Fo Del". Asphodele refers to the species of daffodil (narcissus) that grow around the Mediterranean and a species growing on both the coasts of Brittany and Galicia. In the ancient times, the daffodils were often used to bloom the grave of the dead, where the legend of Asphodel Meadow , instead of Hades in Greek mythology . I have read that the actual asphodele plant has no scent.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was a light, sweet gardenia based fruity floral perfume with subtle green notes on a musky base. I had only the tiniest drop of a sample to test for this blog entry and the sample was quite degraded. I would love to have another go at another sample if someone could provide me one.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, narcissus
  • Middle notes: gardenia, tuberose, lily
  • Base notes: green notes, musk

It was described as "the true fragrance of the gardenia, modernism in perfume" in a 1930 newspaper ad.




Bottle:


Standard Asphodele Flacon for Parfum:

Presented in a clear glass bottle with a bulbous round base and a tapered neck, clear and frosted glass stopper in the shape of a triangle molded with the letter 'L' on each side, sometimes you can find the stopper decorated with silver leaf and enamel.

This bottle came in several sizes, from 1 oz (approximately 28cc) to 8 oz.
  • 1 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.

Fashions of the Hour, 1926:
"And a delicate scent to please a pretty nose: (8) Asphodele by Lentheric, crystal and silver bottle, $12.50. (9) Lionceau's Parfum pour Blondes, jade green bottle, $15. (10) Sourire de France, old rose and silver bottle, $30. (11) Rue de Rivoli by Hener, black bottle with red and white, $18. (12) Hener's Belle de Nuit, royal blue bottle and case."

Advertising & Selling, 1929:
"Beauty of line is shown in the perfume bottle of Lentheric. It is of modernistic type, as are all the containers in this line, but the perfume bottle is especially well designed. Geometric lines in the bottle are repeated in the triangular stopper.













Czech Bubble Flacon for Parfum:

Asphodele parfum was also presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, cerulean blue for Miracle, softened rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, green for Au Fil de L'Eau, green for Foret Vierge, mirror clear for Asphodele, champagne for Tweed, and Numero Douze in amber. Bottle stands 4" tall.





Bouquet Lentheric:

Bouquet Lentheric was dubbed a "daytime fragrance" and was a double strength eau de cologne.

In 1935, customers could have their Bouquet Lentheric scents bottled in beautiful Orrefors crystal bottles. These amphora shaped decanters were wheel cut with a delicate floral pattern.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1934.
  

Miscellaneous:


From a 1929 Lentheric catalog, Asphodele was available in the following, with original prices:



Extract (boxed):
  • No. 2500 - 1/2 oz - $4.00
  • No. 1500 - 1 oz - $7.00
  • No. 500 - 2 oz - $12.50
  • No. 501 - 4 oz - $25.00
  • No. 501 - 8 oz $45.00

Toilet Water:
  • No. 510 - 4 oz - $6.00
  • No. 511 - 8 oz - $10.00
  • No. 512 - 16 oz - $18.00

Double Compact (with extra refill):
  • No. 100 - $2.50
  • Rouge: Pour Blonde,Medium, Pour Brune
  • Powder: Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche

Single Compact (with extra refill):

  • No. 101 - $1.00
  • Naturelle ,Rachel, Blanche



Powder Refill (with puff for No. 101 and 100):

  • No. 103 - $0.50
  • Naturelle ,Rachel, Blanche


Face Powder (with puff):

  • No. 105 - $1.00
  • Naturelle No. 1
  • Naturelle No. 2
  • Naturelle No. 3
  • Rachel No. 1
  • Rachel No. 2
  • Summer Tan 
  • Ocre 
  • Ocre Rose
  • Blanche


Talcum Powder
  • No. 110 - 4 1/2 oz - $1.00
  • Summer Tan
  • White


Dusting Powder (with puff)
  • No. 115 - $2.00


Bath Salts
  • No. 129 - small - $1.50
  • No. 121 - large - $2.50


Brilliantine:
  • No. 135 - Liquid - $1.50
  • No. 136 - Crystalized - $2.50


Sachet:
  • No. 140 - 1 oz - $2.00

 


Note: Please understand that this website is not affiliated with the Lentheric company in any way, it is only a reference page for collectors and those who have enjoyed the Lentheric fragrances.  

The goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Lentheric company how much we miss the discontinued classics such as Asphodele and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back the original formula of the perfume! 


Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the perfume, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories), who knows, perhaps someone from the company might see it.


Eau de Rochas by Rochas c1970

$
0
0
Eau de Rochas by Rochas: launched in 1970. Nicolas Mamounas.



The fragrance was originally based on the 1948 fragrance Eau de Roche, created by Edmond Roudtniska. This fresh, classic Eau de Cologne was discontinued by 1956 and is very hard to find today.



In 1970, Nicolas Mamounas worked with this formula and the fragrance was reintroduced. However, in 1974, the Hoffmann LaRoche company, the proprietors of the word trade mark ' Roche ', had taken action against the perfumery company Rochas, who used the name Eau de Roche. The resulting lawsuit forced Rochas to rename the fragrance as Eau de Rochas in 1976.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a Citrus Aromatic chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes are: verbena, lime, mandarin orange, basil, grapefruit, bergamot and green citron
  • Middle notes: jasmine, mountain narcissus, coriander, carnation and wild rose
  • Base notes: patchouli, oak moss, sweet briar, sandalwood, ambergris and musk


Bottles:


Presented in a bottle that looks like rock crystal shot through with streams of running water, designed by Serge Mansau.







Fate of the Fragrance:

In 2014 - a limited edition 50ml eau de toilette bottle was presented in packaging designed by illustrator Aurore de La Morinerie.



Pia by Dimitri c1977

$
0
0
Pia by Dimitri Ltd.: launched in 1977. The company Dimitri of Italy was created by Piero Dimitri.

Maria Pia was was an employee in the Dimitri firm in Italy before her marriage Piero, the famous Dimitri of Italy the first mens wear designer in the Coty Hall of Fame. Maria put her family responsibilities first, but remained involved in Dimitri's career. As the children grew up, Maria moved into the Dimitri fashion and design picture.



In 1977, Maria completely managed the Dimitri Boutique in New York. She also helped to select fabrics for the Dimitri ready-to-wear collections and had a hand in the Dimitri for Women production. As a nod to her loyalty and devotion to the family and the fashion empire, Dimitri named his first fragrance "Pia", after his wife. In 1978, Dimitri of Italy introduced a men's fragrance Dimitri.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: angelique
  • Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, Turkish rose
  • Base notes: musk, vetiver, amber


Bottle:


The parfum was housed in a clear, square crystal bottle with rounded corners, fitted with a glass stopper and decorated with the Pia name on the front in white serigraphy. The bottle was housed in a pale pink presentation box with the Pia name in white.





Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1985.

Shanghai by Lentheric c1936

$
0
0
Shanghai by Lentheric: launched in 1936. Originally named Cœur de Paris and launched in 1911. Cœur de Paris was renamed Shanghai in 1936 and was repackaged in a beautiful Chinese styled vase.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was a floral oriental perfume. In a 1938 newspaper article it was described as "a very suave perfume, a natural affinity for furs, woolens, cold weather, grand for brunettes, and having a warm fragrance...the haunting mystery of the East...subtle and exquisite delicacy of modernized oriental fragrance."

I am using a vintage 1940's Shanghai perfume nip to review this perfume, and I detect soapy aldehydes in this example, which were probably not used in the Coeur de Paris version. This is a beautiful perfume, very powdery, herbal and spicy with the amber and aldehydes, I also think I detect bee pollen.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, cinnamon, clove, citronella
  • Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, geranium, lavender
  • Base notes: frankincense, cedarwood,  tonka, vetiver, oak moss, myrrh, benzoin, amber, musk, sandalwood

I just tested a small amount on my skin from another sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells aldehydic, citric, a cross between Avon's Skin So Soft and Old Spice, geranium and lavender shine through. It lasts fairly long, spicy and herbal on a warm, woody base.

On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy, with only a short breath of the flowers, I feel that only on the skin does the super sweet gardenia and tuberose blend become very apparent and much more enjoyable.


A 1936 ad reads:
"New fragrance Shanghai, a gift that is refreshing. Many women like a spicy and gay fragrance and this perfume is as merry and gay as the Christmas season."

Etude, 1938:
"They are all there in Lentheric's magnificent perfume Shanghai. In direct contrast is Lentheric's A Bientot ('till we meet again), a light, gay, refreshing, free, playful fragrance, full of youth and expectancy, midsummer floral odors for you."

Bottles:

Clear crystal bottle, in the stylized shape of an ancient Chinese incense burner, with crystal inner stopper and amber bakelite over cap. This bottle came in several sizes: 1 oz




Clear crystal bottle in the stylized shape of an ancient Chinese incense burner, slightly different than the one shown above. Inner glass stopper and frosted glass over cap. Half ounce bottle stands 1 5/8" tall. one ounce bottle stands 2 1/2" tall.


Cute mini perfume, rectangular shaped clear glass bottle, molded with vertical lines, gold ball screw car. Yellow presentation case and label. Bottle stands 2 1/4" tall and was used for other perfumes.





Art Deco bottle with stepped frosted glass stopper. Bottle stands 3 1/8 inches tall by 2 3/8 inches wide. This bottle was used for other perfumes.



Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued, date unknown.


Les Parfums Nelombo

$
0
0
Nelombo was established in 1931 by Les Laboratoires Dausse, Societe Anonyme, Paris, France . The name Nelombo is the common name of the Netumbium speciosum, a large pink water lily or lotus.






Ser. No. 334,365 Filed Jan 26 1933.

NELOMBO

For Perfumes Toilet Waters Face Powders Face Powder Compacts Rouges Lipsticks Eyebrow Pencils Hair Tints in Solid Form Lavender Waters Vegetal Lotions Eau de Cologne Bath Salts Dentifrices in Liquid and Paste Form Face and Skin Creams Beauty Lotions Shampoos Depilatories in Paste Form Liquid Toilet Astringents Nut Oil Lotion for the Skin Brilliantine and Nail Polishes.

Claims use since Dec. 18, 1931.



The perfumes of Nelombo:

  • 1933 Oeillet
  • 1933 Rose
  • 1933 Violette
  • 1933 Fougere
  • 1933 Calliopsis (Greek word for "beautiful to see")
  • 1933 Gardenia
  • 1933 Chypre
  • 1933 Pois de Senteur
  • 1933 En Croiserie
  • 1933 Le Parfum de Gaby Morlay









Madame de Carven c1979

$
0
0
Madame de Carven by Carven: launched in 1979.





Madame De Carven was originally available in the following products:
  • 0.16 oz Parfum Pendant
  • 0.25 oz Parfum
  • 0.50 oz Parfum
  • 0.25 oz Parfum Spray
  • 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette Splash Miniature
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 4.2 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • Soap

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh green, fruity top, followed by an exotic floral heart, resting on a warm, woody, amber base.
  • Top notes: coconut, leafy green notes, galbanum, peach and bergamot
  • Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, iris, orchid, ylang ylang, jasmine and hyacinth
  • Base notes: patchouli, ambergris, musk, benzoin, castoreum, styrax, incense, oakmoss and vetiver


San Diego Magazine, Volume 33, 1980:
"Today's most-wanted new scent in all the world probably is a bravura perfume in the grand French tradition — Madame de Carven. Ylang-ylang, patchouli, jasmine, musk, and iris are among its leading notes. Ambergris is its fixative."


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1990.




Un jour le parfum, il etait une nuit by Sephora c1996

$
0
0
Un jour le parfum, il était une fois la nuit by Sephora: launched in 1996. Perfume created for the opening of Sephora on the Champs Elysées, the largest perfumery in the world on December 11, 1996 at midnight.



Women's Wear Daily, 1996:
"Finally, Sephora is throwing an all-night bash dedicated to perfume on Dec. 21, the longest night of the year. The party, christened “La Nuit du Parfum,” will be at the store, and guests will include manufacturers, designers, perfumers and others from the industry. Many will discuss their role in the perfume process. 
The event will be transmitted live by satellite to all Sephora stores, which also will stay open all night. Meanwhile, home computer owners will be able to communicate via Internet with the party guests. 
A special edition fragrance called “Un jour le Parfum…Il Etait une nuit” was created for the party. A total of 300 bottles of the fragrance, each packaged in a crystal bottle designed by Serge Mansau, will be distributed in the perfumeries the night of the party."



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Unfortunately, I have no notes on the perfume's scent.

  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes:



Bottles:

Two bottles were produced for this rare perfume.

Miniature Edition:


Bottle created for the opening of Sephora on the Champs Elysées, the largest perfumery in the world on December 11, 1996 at midnight. Bottle designed by Serge Mansau. Glass bottle belly model shows, decorated with gold-colored stars. Cap depicting clockwise indicating eleven fifty-five p.m.

Height: 9.5 cm.

Bottle holds 10ml parfum.




Grand Luxe Edition:


Grand Luxe Edition was limited to only 300 copies. Presented in a wooden box containing a shipping trunk with its labels containing an aluminum estagnon flacon of 150 ml of perfume and the "prestige" bottle in colorless glass and night blue glass, decorated with hot stamped gold, representing a sphere decorated with stars and a view of the cosmos, its night blue glass stopper representing two watch hands. Numbered 52/300. High. from the bottle: 12 cm




Parfumerie Brissac

$
0
0
Parfumerie Brissac was a French company established in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1917 by L. Aubert y Cía.  (L. Aubert y Compania, Jorge Newbery St. Buenos Aires). They were associated with Les Parfums Persans. Brissac was still in business in 1924.






The company produced perfume, face powders and possibly other cosmetics and toiletries. Their most famous products were Polvo Grasoso Brissac (Brissac Greasy Powder) and Crema Higienica Brissac (Brissac Hygienic Cream). These products were promoted in South America.

"This delicious cream is the emblem of beauty. So that the youth of the face does not wilt like a scorched flower, it is essential to take care and refresh the complexion with the excellent Brissac Hygienic Cream. An irreplaceable complement to Brissac Greasy Powder. It adheres the powder in a perfect way, "

Their best known perfume was Lune d’Amour, contained in a frosted glass kidney shaped bottle, molded with a reclining nude, launched in 1918. The gilded paper label was in the shape of a crescent moon and was placed to the left of the reclining woman. The bottle was American made and in the French style, some people mistake it for Lalique.

L. Aubert y Cia (doing business under the name of Brissac) was sued by the Parisian company Mendel et Cie (distributing the Leichner brand from Berlin) in 1922 on grounds of trademark infringement and false indications of origin on their products, advertisement, labels and prospectus for their face powders. Leichner used the trademarks of "Polvo Grasoso de Leichner" and since Brissac used "Polvo Grasoso Brissac" in their product name, Leichner was understandably irritated about the competition using a similar name, which could be confusing to consumers. The false indication of origin may have been when they used the city of "Paris" in their labels and ads, when the company may have only been in fact Argentinian. This info was gleaned by the 1922 volume of "Jurisprudencia argentina, Volume 9".



The perfumes of Brissac:

  • 1918 Jasmine
  • 1918 Violet
  • 1918 Rose
  • 1918 Heliotrope
  • 1918 Lilac
  • 1918 White Carnation
  • 1918 Lune d'Amour
  • Essence de Lavande des Monts-Alpins

Half Doll Boudoir Novelties Catalog Page

$
0
0
Here is a wonderful page from a 1926 catalog showing interesting half doll novelties in a variety of types. These feature the "Colonial Dame" brand or style composition heads. Most of these that we have seen were made in France. The half dolls were mounted on strong wire frames, have wavy wigs in colors of white, blonde, auburn and black. They are dressed in high quality materials and fabrics made up of rayon and silk taffeta with ornamental passementerie trimmings, some metallic. The fabric colors were chosen to work best in the boudoir in shades of "old rose", "copen" which is a soft blue, "orchid" and "tan". I suspect the entire ensemble was made and imported from France.






Boudoir Electric Light. Rayon (artificial silk) crepe dress, floral design rayon overskirt, gold braid trimmed. Wired, standard socket, screw plug. 6" ft covered wire. Each in gift box. Old rose, copen, or orchid. Full size: 17" x 7". Doll 6" x 3".


Electric Bed Light. Rayon (artificial silk) crepe dress, floral design rayon overskirt, gold braid trimmed. Wired, standard socket, screw plug. 6" ft covered wire. Each in gift box. Old rose, copen, or orchid. Full size: 14" x 10". Doll 6" x 3".


Boudoir Electric Light. gold trimmed silk taffeta dress. Wired, standard socket, 2 pc plug. 6" ft covered wire. Each in gift box. Old rose, copen, or orchid. Full size: 16" x 7". Doll 6.25" x 3.25". 


Boudoir Doll with Powder Tray. silk taffeta dress, gold lace trimmed. 2.25" double velour powder puff in gold finish box. Each in gift box. Old rose, copen, or orchid. Full size: 12" x 6". Doll 6" x 3".


Electric Bed Light. Gold trimmed silk taffeta dress. Wired, standard socket, 2 pc plug. 6" ft covered wire. Each in gift box. Old rose, copen, or orchid. Full size: 14" x 9.5". Doll 6.25" x 3.25".


Boudoir Doll with Atomizer. Silk taffeta dress, gold lace trimmed. 3.25" x 3" DeVilbiss atomizer with frosted glass bottle, gold finish spray, large red rubber bulb. Each in gift box. Old rose, copen, or orchid. Full size: 12" x 6". Doll 6" x 3".




Telephone Screen. Center panel insert, covered with rayon (artificial silk) crepe, trimmed with gold lace braid and colored flowers. Each in gift box. Old rose, copen, or tan. Full size: 15.5" x 11". Doll 4.5" x 2.25".


Telephone Concealers. Gold trimmed silk taffeta dress. Completely covers telephone by being lowered over it. Each in gift box. Old rose, copen, or orchid. Full size: 20" x 10". Doll 6.25" x 3.25".









Recital by F. Millot c1931

$
0
0
Recital by F. Millot: launched in 1931. Created by Jean Desprez.







Fragrance Composition:


It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: fruity note, neroli, bergamot, basil, peru oil and aldehydes
  • Middle notes: iris, gardenia, ylang-ylang, sage, Otto rose, chamomile and jasmine
  • Base notes: leather, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver, patchouli and benzoin



Bottle:






Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1945.

Prince George of Russia

$
0
0
The Prince George of Russia perfumery brand was founded by Martin de Markoff (aka Martin de Botelho). The full name of the brand was "The Perfumes of His Highness Prince George Kostantinovich Romanov of Russia, Inc. of New York, New York. This was established for the former Russian prince, George Constantine.

The company was associated with Markoff's other brands Ballarde Inc and Alexandra de Markoff.

In business until 1946.


Brief History:


Prince Georgy Konstantinovich of Russia (6 May 1903 – 7 November 1938), was the youngest son of Grand Duke Konstantin Konstantinovich of Russia and his wife Grand Duchess Yelizaveta Mavrikiyevna (the former German princess Elisabeth of Saxe-Altenburg).

George Constantine's great grandfather was Czar Nicholas I, and he was a favorite cousin of the late Czar Nicholas who was killed during the Russian Revolution. George Constantine was eighth in succession for the Russian throne when the Revolution drove his family from their native land.



Prince George and his sister, Princess Vera Konstantinovna remained at Pavlovsk, St Petersburg  throughout the war, the chaotic rule of the Provisional Government, and after the October Revolution.

In the fall of 1918, they were permitted by the Bolsheviks to be taken by ship to Sweden, via Tallinn to Helsinki and via Mariehamn to Stockholm, at the invitation of the Swedish queen. His mother, with help of the German Consul at St Petersburg, was able to obtain faked German passports for herself, Prince George, his younger sister Vera, and two grandchildren, the young son and daughter of her oldest son John and his wife Helen, daughter of the assassinated Serbian king.

They escaped on the Swedish ship Ångermanland with little difficulty, although they reported instances of rough handling by the Bolshevik custom officers when they boarded their escape ship located at the St Petersburg docks. The customs officers dumped their luggage onto the dock, where they began a very thorough search for silver, gold and jewelry, the sort of valuables royalty might have carried. However, being careful and anticipating seizures of the treasured heirlooms, the family had German friends take the jewelry and valuables out of the country before their departure.

At Stockholm harbor they met prince Gustaf Adolf who took them to the royal palace. George, Vera, and their mother lived for the next two years in Sweden, first in Stockholm then in Saltsjöbaden, but Sweden proved too expensive for the family so they moved to Belgium by invitation of Albert I of Belgium, and then to Germany, settling in Altenburg, then to the south of France, and finally to England. His mother died of cancer on 24 March 1927 in Leipzig.

Prince George had explained in a 1937 newspaper article that "Many royalists were assisted in their flights from terrorized Russia by the Germans, the English, the French, and other nationalities, including the Americans. Everyone was very kind to us - everyone but our own people."

The prince had reason to be angry and saddened at the same time as his life seemed to be full of heartbreak. The Bolsheviks killed two of George's brothers, another had managed to escape and was residing in with his mother in Europe, a fourth brother who was serving with the Russian army was killed in action during the early days of the first World War, while his father, the Grand Duke Constantine, died after a brief illness in 1915.



George had attended school for two years while in Sweden and received higher education in Belgium and England. He was becoming interested in interior decorating, and began studying arts and decoration, eventually went into business in London as an interior decorator. His pride swelled as he proved to be a success, having decorated some of the finest and most famous homes in England. He styled his name as George Constantine.

Afer arriving in New York in 1929, he sought to establish himself in the interior decorating business, hoping to mimic the success he achieved in England. However, his customers seemed to be fixated on another topic - furs. Based on his Russian ancestry, people insisted on asking him about furs, most notably Russian furs, Siberian furs. They seemed to think because he was of Russian royalty, he would be somewhat of an authority on furs. It turned out he knew very little of the subject, but quickly resolved that problem. He went to the great fur houses of New York and talked to various experts in the field, especially those who were his own countrymen. Pretty soon his knowledge of quality furs was expanding, he knew the furs from every angle. He was fascinated by the fur trade and worked in shops helping to sort, grade, and match pelts, finally he was designing the luxurious coats and stoles.



Confident in his experience, he applied for a position in the fur department of Saks Fifth Avenue as George Constantine, Russian fur expert, an everyday ordinary man, not the regal Prince George of Russia. With his good references from the prior fur shops he worked for, he was immediately hired. He proved himself a very valuable asset to his employers before they found out his true royal identity. One of his employers commented "We hired him as a man and found him to be a prince." He was considered "a regular guy."

In the five years he spent with the firm his excellent capabilities allowed him to take over the management of their Long Island, Southampton, Newport and Palm Beach Florida stores. He even circulated among the seasonal shops and during the off-seasons, he traveled on the road for the firm, as far away as the Pacific Coast. In 1932, he was promoted as manager of the Palm Beach shop during the winter, for the season, accompanied by Charles S. Rose. While he was there, George spent a week at the Miami Biltmore Hotel as part of the Florida Year Round Club. During the summer, he was installed at the Southampton shop.


He made his permanent home at a Park Avenue apartment in New York City. He was neither married nor engaged as his work consumed much of his time. He eventually lost his Russian accent and spoke perfect English. George was content being a plain old American citizen to the trappings of royalty. He explained that "Russia, my own country, is doing very well without her royalty...Royalty is doing much better without its royal robes. As free, unrestricted men and women, we have equal opportunities with other citizens - the chance to get out into the world and seek success through enterprise and hard work. It's a satisfaction that no empty title can give. The kings of the future will be the kings of commerce and industry - not men and women who are born at the top of the ladder and have nothing to work for. In my case, I've enjoyed fighting for a living. It is the most gratifying feeling anyone can experience - to know he is working out his own destiny - attaining his own success through his own efforts...Would I be as happy living the life of a Russian price at court as I am as plain George Constantine in America? I don't believe I would."

George, who never married, became a successful interior designer. He died on November  7, 1938 of complications following surgery in New York City at the age of 35.

He is buried next to his sister Princess Vera Konstantinovna at the Russian Orthodox Cemetery of Novo-Diveevo in Nanuet, New York.


Foray into Perfumery:



Around 1936, he began to show interest in perfumery, much like his fellow expats Prince Matchabelli and Prince Obolensky. The Prince George of Russia perfumery brand was founded by Martin de Markoff (aka Martin de Botelho) and established for the former Russian prince, George Constantine. The full name of the brand was "The Perfumes of His Highness Prince George Kostantinovich Romanov of Russia, Inc." of New York, New York.

The Prince George line was under the umbrella of Alexandra de Markoff.

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
"Alexandra de Markoff has been granted exclusive rights to the name “His Highness Prince George of Russia"


The first perfume was released in 1936. Elixir, was contained in a black glass flacon with a long neck.

While George Constantine was just as happy being an ordinary guy, the glamour of aristocracy was too precious to leave behind, so the advertisements for the perfumes brought it back into the forefront. One such ad from a 1938 edition of The Capital Times newspaper reads:

"Sables and Ermine, gold and platinum - scintillating tiaras of precious jewels and lovely faces - and all the atmosphere depicting the fabulous glamour of Romanov Court - has been recreated by His Highness Prince George Romanov of Russia in his superb perfume "Tiara".Truly and intoxicating fragrance instantly surrounding the user with an aura of glamour. It is such a truly beautiful presentation that I thought you would find place for it on your Christmas shopping list."


While the prince died in 1938, the perfumery company named for him did not, it lasted into the 1940s. It was a shame that the prince did not live long enough to see the success that his perfume company brought, I feel that if he lived longer, his company would have been more well known and remembered.

In 1938, Alexandra de Markoff attempted to rename the brand simply Prince George, Inc. The line would carry men's fragrances. A separate line created in 1944, called Alexa Perfumes absorbed some of the fragrances originally sold under the Prince George of Russia name such as Tiara. The Alexa line also repurposed the black glass bottles originally used by the Prince George of Russia line. The Alexa line was shelved by 1949 and Tiara was relaunched under the Alexandra de Markoff name in 1955.





In 1947, Herman L. Brooks, chairman of the board of the Toilet Goods Association and former president of Coty, had purchased the Alexandra de Markoff Facial Preparations Co. and affiliated companies, Alexa Perfumes and Prince George Men's Line. Martin de Markoff, founder of the business, continued to assist in the packaging, designing and creation of new products.


The perfumes of Prince George of Russia:

  • 1936 Cologne Elixir Prince George of Russia (an heady, exotic oriental perfume)
  • 1938 Tiara (a dry, heady blend, sophisticated, voluptuous perfume)
  • 1938 Aqua Rex
  • 1938 Aqua Regina
  • 1938 Her Majesty's Lilac
  • 1940 Moonflower (light, sweet and elusive perfume)




Stage, 1936:
"Royalty seems to be on a cosmetic vibration this year anyway; witness the new Ballarde perfume, done up in a handsome black carafe, and called "Elixir Prince George of Russia."

Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 41, 1937:
"Lait de Cologne is said to be non-alcoholic and is recommended for after shaving 
and after bathing. One of the most interesting Cologne packages to make its
appearance this year is Ballarde's Cologne Elixir Prince George of Russia."

The New Yorker, 1938:
"Prince George of Russia has done Her Majesty's Lilac, as well as a moody and fascinating scent called Tiara."















L'Ardente Nuit by Corday c1930

$
0
0
L’Ardente Nuit by Corday: launched in 1930. The name means "The Fiery Night" in French. It was suggested to be worn with "rich fabrics and furs."



1936 prices:
  • Large bottle , one ounce, $38.50
  • Smaller bottle - half ounce, $18.50
  • Dusting powder $3.50


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a heady oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lily of the valley
  • Middle notes: cinnamon, cloves, orange blossom,rose, jasmine
  • Base notes: tonka bean, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, civet and ambergris


Bottles:









The deluxe crystal parfum flacons were equipped with a silver metal label hanging around the neck of the bottle, much like a liquor tag found on decanters, these bottles were made by Baccarat. Other bottles were made up of molded glass and simply had a silver or white paper label,  these bottles were produced by Wheaton Glass in New Jersey, USA.

L'Ardente Nuit was available in the following:
  • 1/5 oz Parfum mini bottle stands 1 7/8" tall. (Fan shaped stoppered bottle)
  • 1/2 oz Parfum bottle stands 3 1/2" tall. (Fan shaped stoppered bottle)
  •  oz Parfum bottle stands 4 1/4" tall. (Fan shaped stoppered bottle)
  • 1 oz Parfum deluxe bottle stands 6" tall and was made by Baccarat. (Fan shaped stoppered bottle)
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette bottle stands 5" tall. (Fan shaped stoppered bottle)
  • Eau de Toilette bottle stands 5 1/4" tall.
  • Mini bottle stands 1 3/4" tall. (square faceted bottle with truncated corners)
  • Mini perfume bottle stands 1.25" tall (cylindrical shape, has screw on top w/cork)
  • After bath dusting powder housed inside of a royal red leather box.


1/5 oz Parfum mini bottle. Photo by Ruby Lane seller Orphaned Treasures 

1/5 oz parfum mini with original leather presentation box and outer box. Photos from worthpoint.

Two piece perfume set, 1/4 oz mini parfum  and 1 oz parfum. Photo from ebay


1 oz Baccarat flacon, stands 6" tall. Photo by ebay seller khalighat.

1/2 oz Parfum. Photo from worthpoint.


Eau de Toilette with frosted glass fan stopper, embossed "Corday" on the base, bottle stands 5 1/4" tall. Photo from worthpoint.

Eau de toilette bottle with frosted glass fan stopper, embossed "Corday" on the base, photo from worthpoint.



Mini perfume bottle stands 1 3/4" tall and 1 1/4" wide. Bottle marked "Bottle Made in France" on base. Photo from worthpoint.

Mini perfume bottle stands 1 1/4" tall (cylindrical shape, has screw on top w/cork)

1/4 oz Parfum.  The bottle is 2" and comes in the original box. 
photos by ebay seller jloise1

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1959. 


Tweed by Lentheric c1933

$
0
0
Tweed by Lentheric: launched in France in 1933. It was not introduced in America until 1935.

Tweed was released under the name Risque Tout when exported to Europe, Central and South America.




"Free, open stretches of heather or country meadow - the playful tug of wind - the friendly sun - a crisp tang in the air - a joy of living! Of such is the essence of Tweed, Parfum Exquis by Lentheric."


Trivia:


Tweed was "a featured maiden voyage perfume of the SS Normandie" which arrived in New York on June 3, 1935.





Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? The original scent was a mossy fougere/chypre perfume with a distinctive herbal lavender note. It begins with a fresh, flowery, fruity top, followed by a classic floral heart, resting on a powdery base.

  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, fruity note, orange geranium and violet
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, narcissus, lilac, ylang-ylang, lavender, orange flower and magnolia 
  • Base notes: musk, styrax, honey, cinnamon, sandalwood, civet, leather, oakmoss, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla and vetiver


I just tested a small amount on my skin from another sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells citric, very mossy while geranium and dry lavender break through. Then some cinnamon and carnation spice up the jasmine and rose. It lasts fairly long, spicy and herbal on a warm, woody base of sandalwood, vetiver, orris and patchouli which lay the groundwork for a little sweet benzoin and animalic civet. 

On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy, with only a short breath of the flowers, I feel that only on the skin does the floral notes become very apparent and much more enjoyable.




Bottles:

Tweed's parfum (extrait) was originally issued in a chunky crystal bottle imitating a Japanese "Koro" incense burner, fitted with an inner glass stopper topped with a wooden overcap. The name Tweed was silkscreened on the front of the bottle in black enamel serigraphy. The earlier bottles have inner glass stoppers, the later bottles have plastic or metal screw caps instead of the glass stoppers.

Contrary to belief, this high quality bottle was not made by Baccarat as it is not listed in the collector's book "Baccarat: The Perfume Bottles", put put by the glass company themselves.

Now if your bottle is missing it's label or hang tag stating the size, you can use this handy guide based on the approximate height of your bottle from base to top of stopper. Remember, the wooden stopper has gone through changes from an original two part piece made with a single block and a U shape underneath, to a single block construction in later years so this will affect the overall height of the bottle too, but not by too much.

  • 1/8 oz stands about 1.75" tall
  • 1/4 oz stands about 2" tall
  • 1/2 oz stands about 2.25" tall
  • 1 oz  stands 3" tall
  • 2 oz stands 3.25" tall
  • 4 oz 
  • 8 oz stands 4.75" tall

In 1936 the prices for the parfum were as follows:

  • Dram - 85 cents
  • Purse size - $1.25
  • 1/4 oz - $2.25
  • 1/2 oz - $4.00
  • 1 oz - $7.00
  • 2 oz - $12.50
  • 8 oz - $27.50






Also presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, cerulean blue for Miracle, softened rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, green for Au Fil de L'Eau, green for Foret Vierge, mirror clear for Asphodele, champagne for Tweed, Numero Douze in amber and Gardenia de Tahiti in orchid by 1936. Bottle stands 4" tall and has a glass dauber.




Orrefors Crystal Parfum Flacons:

In 1936, a trio of crystal bottles was introduced manufactured by Orrefors to hold Tweed, Gardenia de Tahiti and Miracle. Each bottle was etched with a different design on the front and was topped by a frosted glass spire like stopper. The vaulted top box was covered in silver and blue paper. The bottles are often unmarked for the Orrefors name and simply had hang tags which were usually lost over time, so most people are unaware that these were used by Lentheric.



Bouquet Lentheric:

A long lasting cologne available in various sizes and bottle shapes.




Fate of the Fragrance:


Reformulated by Arthur Burnham and relaunched in association with Yardley (Fine Fragrances and Cosmetics) in 1992.

This version is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, orange and violets
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, lilac and magnolia 
  • Base notes: sandalwood, civet and leather

Bic Fragrances

$
0
0
Societe Bic, a company who makes low cost, but good quality disposable razors, lighters and pens brought out a fragrance collection in 1988 under the brand Parfums Bic.

The scents were developed by Firmenich in France and the collection originally included four fragrances: Jour, Nuit, Homme, and Sport.



The scents were first introduced in France, Italy, and Belgium with the names Nuit, Jour, Homme and Sport. The company then planned to expand its distribution system in 1989 by exporting to the United States. When they were introduced in USA, the name Homme was changed to Bic for Men and Sport was changed to Bic Sport for Men.

The company spent $15 million in advertising and marketing strategies. The target market was women 18 to 40 years old. Bic decided to sell the fragrances in the usual stores other Bic items would traditionally be found: large chain retail supermarkets, convenience stores and drug stores rather than department stores. Parfum Bic could be bought as an impulse buy, a quick gift idea or to someone who forgot to spray their perfume on before they left home.

The price point was right, $5 for a quarter ounce bottle sold in simple blister packs. Parfums Bic thought that they could offer the luxury of real French parfum to the American public literally at an affordable fraction of what it would normally pay for a quarter ounce of other brands. Compare the $5 a quarter ounce of Parfum Bic to some of the retail prices from the most competitive brands of the era: Giorgio $55, Obsession: $60, Chanel No. 5 $60, Opium $ 67.50, and Joy $90. The product was heralded by Bic officials as the first inexpensive, quality French perfume. "We're taking fine French perfume out of the bedroom and into the on-the-go world."


The Bottles:


The fragrances were attractively packaged in spill proof bottles shaped like butane cigarette lighters, each with a different colored cap to distinguish them: Jour (red cap), Nuit (blue cap), Homme (black cap) and Sport (green cap). The unbreakable bottles were made by Saint-Gobain and the caps by Sofab SA.

The Bic pump emits about a third less than ordinary atomizer pumps and allows 300 sprays. The idea was to concentrate the scent so its not wasted when applied. "The world's first fine French perfume that combined high quality with affordable pricing and stylish portable design."

The fragrances were imported from France, where they were created in a $25 million custom built factory outside Paris, in Treport, near the Saint-Gobain factory.


The Fragrances:



Bic Nuit is warm, spicy floral oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: mandarin
  • Middle notes: ylang-ylang, carnation, rose, jasmine
  • Base notes: spices, amber, vanilla, musk



Bic Jour is a light fruity floral fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: fruity
  • Middle notes: green
  • Base notes: woody



Bic Sport is a fresh woody fragrance, suitable for both sexes.

  • Top notes: citrus
  • Middle notes: green
  • Base notes: aromatic woods



Bic Homme is classified as an earthy fougere fragrance for men

  • Top notes: bergamot, lavender
  • Middle notes: fern
  • Base notes: musk



Fate of the Fragrances:


Parfums Bic pulled the fragrances from shelves in 1991 due to poor sales in the USA, a loss of $11 million. One reason for the failure was that there were no testers for customers to try out the perfumes. Some customers were confused about the lighter shape of the bottle, and felt the perfumes probably smelled like butane or ink. The other reason was that Bic wanted the fragrances to be seen as disposable luxury, but this idea backfired, as most customers only saw them as cheap junk. They lacked the sophistication and glamorous fantasy that high end perfume advertisements and marketing promised.
Viewing all 991 articles
Browse latest View live