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Esprit de Phantom by Phantom of the Opera c1988

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Esprit de Phantom for women was aunched in 1988. Created during the Phantom play craze by Creative Fragrances, Inc. This scent was commissioned to be sold during intermission at the shows. Limited edition souvenir scent from the show (interesting concept).




The fragrances were also sold at higher end department stores such as Macy's, I. Magnin, Bullocks, Marshall Field and G. Fox.

Manufactured by various companies over the years: Creative Fragrances, Inc./Helix Fragrances, Inc./Moar International eventually changed name fro Esprit de Phantom to Phantom of the Opera by Parlux.


Fragrance Composition:



It is classified as a sweet fruity floral oriental fragrance for women. It begins with fruits and lush white flowers, followed by a heart full of spices and honey, resting on a base of vanilla, amber and musk.
  • Top notes: bergamot, jasmine, orange blossom
  • Middle notes: honey, exotic spices, peach, apricot, sandalwood
  • Base notes: musk, patchouli, amber, vanilla, oakmoss


Bottle:


A satin black bottle with a white rose at the top, a red seal at the neck and a relief wreath of roses twined around its base.

gallery photo
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Fate of the Fragrance:


This fragrance has been discontinued for quite some time and can be hard to find.



A man's fragrance was also released, known as Phantom Pour Homme by Creative Fragrances:
launched in 1988. This is also discontinued.
  • Top notes: pineapple, blackcurrant, geranium, peppermint
  • Middle notes: lavender, jasmine, orange flower, muguet, cyclamen, juniper berry
  • Base notes: patchouli, amber, oakmoss, cedarwood, sandalwood, musk


Ocean Dream by Giorgio Beverly Hills c1996

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Ocean Dream by Giorgio Beverly Hills: launched in 1996 in association with Designer Parfums and Proctor & Gamble. Created by Alberto Morillas. Ocean Dream was inspired by the beach's omnipresence in the southern California consciousness.




It is classified as an aquatic floral fragrance for women. Described as 'aquatic-floral', it is composed of ten accords of oceanic and floral notes and is designed to celebrate the lifestyle of southern California.

  • Top notes: bergamot, peach, lemon, oceanic accord, freesia
  • Middle notes:  orange blossom, water lily, water heliotrope
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, cedar and vetiver


New Woman, 1996:
"THE NAME: Ocean Dream. ... The Concept: The glass bottle has a weathered, Coke-bottle-washed-by-the-sea appeal and the ingredients are "olfactory interpretations of feelings inspired by the ocean." The Smell: A fresh fruity-floral, the scent contains "water flowers" like pink pearl, a water lily indigenous to the North China Sea, and seaside heliotrope, a purple flower found in warm Pacific waters."


Bottle:

Step-by-step Graphics, 1996:
"A luxurious look was essential when Maddocks & Company created a signature bottle for Ocean Dream, a new perfume from Giorgio. The bottles were molded one at a time and finished by hand, and the coloring (produced by adding minerals or metal oxides to the molten glass) increased the per-bottle cost dramatically."


Fate of the Fragrance:


This was discontinued and is no longer made by Giorgio, a company in the United Kingdom (Designer Parfums Ltd.) bought the rights to the name and now produces their version of the fragrance, but according to many reviews online, it just isn't the same.

Liz Claiborne by Liz Claiborne c1986

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Liz Claiborne by Liz Claiborne: launched in 1986. This is the first fragrance by designer Liz Claiborne. Created by the perfumers at IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances). The idea was for the company to make a fragrance that represented Liz herself.

In 1985, Avon and Liz Claiborne had signed a joint agreement to create and market the new entry. Avon participated in product research, supply and development of the scent. Liz Claiborne Cosmetics were completely responsible for the sales and marketing of the fragrance.







The massive marketing blitz included distribution of 10 million samples of the perfume, miniature Liz Claiborne shopping bags were provided to those making a purchase of the scent, fragrance counters displayed large factices of the bottle, while a 63 ounce facsimile of the perfume bottle was used for dramming events. 

The company started shipments of the perfume in late 1986, and in 1987, their sales reached $26 million. The fragrance was so successful that a trade publication named Liz Claiborne one of the top five brands of perfume in 1987. Success continued, sales grew to $44 million in sales for 1988, $60 million in 1989, and $72 million in 1990.


Fragrance Composition:


It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. A light hearted bouquet of sparkling fresh florals, fruits and spice. It begins with a fresh fruity top, followed by a cool floral heart, resting on a unobtrusive, powdery floral base.
  • Top notes: pineapple, aldehyde, carnation, lily, freesia, mandarin, marigold, green notes, bergamot and peach
  • Middle notes: cyclamen, jasmine, narcissus, rose, ylang-ylang, lilac, tuberose, lily-of-the-valley and violet 
  • Base notes: cedar, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss and musk

Bottle:


President of Liz Claiborne, Victor Gassman, noted that Liz Claiborne herself had complete approval on the design of the bottle which was in the shape of the Liz Claiborne signature logo, a triangle. 

Available in specialty and upscale department stores, the triangle shape was incorporated throughout the 12 products in the Liz Claiborne Cosmetics line. Body lotion and body shampoo came in triangular PET bottles, perfume came in a clear glass bottle with an inverted triangular stopper and the three sizes of eau de toilette were packaged in triangular injection-molded ABS plastic cases with a clear triangular window revealing the spray bottle. This original bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand in 1986 and manufactured by both Pochet et du Courval  and Wheaton with plastic components supplied by AMS.




Fate of the Fragrance:

Stemming from a out of court litigation settlement in 1988, Liz Claiborne Cosmetics bought out their license from Avon and henceforth became the sole owners of their own perfume division.

In 1993, the fragrance was housed in a new, updated bottle.


Garwood's Standard Perfumes

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Philadelphia; claimed established in 1852; most likely c1873; a subsidiary of Schandein & Lind in c1900; launched a range of fragrances in the first quarter of 20th century.



Established by Harry Schandein and Monroe P. Lind. 208 N 4th Street Philadelphia. Established 1886.

Schandein & Lind were located at 583 Arch Street Philadelphia.


Schandein & Lind:
  • 1897 Bouquet de Violette 
  • 1903 Bulgarian Rose 
  • 1903 Catherine Mermet Rose 
  • 1903 Clarice 
  • 1903 Clove Pink 
  • 1903 Cuban Clover 
  • 1903 Cuban Violets 
  • 1903 Eden Queen 
  • 1903 Effervescent Perfumed Bath Tablets 
  • 1903 Gardenia 
  • 1903 Garwood (as applied to Perfumes etc)
  • 1903 Lilac Blossoms 
  • 1903 Mary Queen of Scots 
  • 1903 May Buds 
  • 1903 Meadow Violet 
  • 1903 Sweet Apple Blossoms 
  • 1903 Sweet Scented Shrub 
  • 1903 Tuscan Cologne 
  • 1903 Violet Breath Hearts 
  • 1903 Wild Apple Blossoms 
  • 1903 Wild Rose 



Garwood's Kathryn Extracts
  • 1887 Bouquet 
  • 1887 Wild Rose
  • 1887 Amaryllis
  • 1887 Orange Blossom 
  • 1887 Indian Clover
  • 1887 Lotus Blossom
  • 1887 Ylang Ylang
  • 1887 Jockey Club
  • 1887 Heliotrope
  • 1887 Violet 
  • 1890 Chinese Honeysuckle (Presented in a bottle with a Buedingen label: it was also featured on the cover of the American Perfumer periodical dated 1909)
  • 1890 Stephanotis
  • 1890 Verbena
  • 1890 Jasmine
  • 1890 Magnolia
  • 1890 White Rose
  • 1890 New Mown Hay
  • 1899 Pink Carnation
  • 1900 Trailing Arbutus
  • 1900 Cherry Blossom
  • 1900 Clove Pink
  • 1900 Crab Apple Blossoms
  • 1900 Lilac Blossoms
  • 1900 Mary Queen of Scots
  • 1900 May Buds
  • 1900 White Hyacinth
  • 1907 Bouquet of Violette
  • 1907 Chinese Lily
  • 1907 Cuban Clover
  • 1907 Cuban Rose
  • 1907 Cuban Violets
  • 1907 Esterhazy
  • 1907 Gardenia
  • 1907 Garwood's Hearts (Heart shaped scented mints)
  • 1907 Locust Blossoms
  • 1907 Meadow Violet
  • 1907 Sweet Apple Blossoms
  • 1907 Sweet Scented Shrub
  • 1907 Wild Apple Blossoms
  • 1908 Tuscan Cologne
  • 1908 Bay Rum
  • 1908 Bulgarian Rose
  • 1908 Catherine Mermet Rose
  • 1908 Clarice
  • 1908 Cuban Bouquet
  • 1908 Cuban Daisy
  • 1908 Curfew
  • 1908 Eden Queen
  • 1908 Floradulcis
  • 1908 Perfumed Charms(a range of presentations)
  • 1920 Garwoods Smelling Salts
  • 1926 Constance
  • 1926 La D'Arling
  • Carnegie Pink
  • Dansante
  • My Idea
  • White Heliotrope
  • White Robin

Chaos by Donna Karan c1994

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Chaos by Donna Karan: launched in 1994.


The idea of the fragrance was to enhance one's own personal scent, subtly. Annemarie Iverson, a reporter, in the 1995 book Annals of Improbable Research explains it thus: "To smell Chaos, you must press your nose into the skin of the person wearing it. The idea is to limit the scope of this fragrance to the wearer's most private sphere. Once detected, though, Chaos smells rich and natural, due to its high concentrations of essential oils."

In 1997, the candles and scented pillows in Donna Karan's new Scents & Sensuality home fragrance collection utilized notes from the designer's fine fragrance, Chaos. "Scents & Sensuality is a natural evolution for our company," said Ruth Anne Miller, Donna Karan's VP of Marketing. Two bold, geometric scented candles, one named Calm and the other, Invigorate.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an Oriental fragrance for women, a fresh, woodsy scent with warm cinnamon, lavender and a hint of incense.
  • Top notes: coriander, chamomile, lavender, sage
  • Middle notes: carnation, cinnamon, saffron
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, amber

Bottle:


Donna Karan's husband, sculptor, Stephan Weiss created the bottle to look like a crystal shard.

When Chaos was first introduced, one ounce of the parfum retailed at $185.

Flankers:


Chaos Sense & Sensuality collection was a home fragrance line whose products utilized notes from the Chaos perfume. The home collection included candles and scented pillows.




The Chaos Essential Oils Kits contain four vials of pre-blended essential oils which were packaged in a suede pouch.


There were three kits available: Sensuality, Inspiration and Relaxation.

  • SENSUALITY I: Ylang Ylang Essential Oil; Soybean Oil
  • SENSUALITY II: Essential Oils of Lavender, Rose and Neroli; Soybean Oil
  • SENSUALITY III: Essential Oils of Patchouli and Nutmeg; Soybean Oil
  • SENSUALITY IV: Essential Oils of Vanilla and Jasmine; Soybean Oil
  • RELAXATION:


  • INSPIRATION III: Essential Oils of Basil and Anise



Watermist:


Watermist, a line of subtly scented body sprays was released as part of the Chaos Sense & Sensuality collection.



Donna Karan had expanded her fragrance collection with Watermists, three water light scents derived from fresh flowers and herbs with aromatherapeutic benefits. The watermists were free of oil, alcohol, or additives. "From Chaos comes the new collection of pure, natural scents distilled from fresh flowers and herbs. Since Watermists are 100 percent natural and contain no alcohol, they can be sprayed all over the body, even the face."

 The scents included:
  • Petal
  • Leaf
  • Nectar

Petal Watermist is based on the soothing scent of the Bulgarian damask rose for calming. Nectar Watermist is derived from sweet neroli flowers of the bitter orange tree to promote tranquility and Leaf Watermist features an invigorating blend of essentials waters from eight energizing plants and herbs. 

Prices ranged from $28 for the 4 oz bottle and $45 for the 8 oz bottle.

The Watermist fragrance line was manufactured for Donna Karan by Allure Cosmetics of San Leandro, California and Herba Aromatica Hayward California, importer of scented floral waters.

The Nectar fragrance was discontinued in 1997 as the Donna Karan Beauty Co. discovered that it contained Burkholderia cepacia. According to the Food and Drug Association spokesman, Arthur Whitmore, the pathogen colonizes in the lungs and can be fatal to people with respiratory diseases such as cystic fibrosis. The Donna Karan Beauty Company notified the FDA immediately and  recalled the products after only a few weeks on the shelves.

Donna Karan Cosmetics provided the following product recall information.
"PRODUCT Nectar Watermist a non alcohol body spray made from natural distilled water extracted from blossoms of orange trees packaged into .5 ounce, 4 ounce, 8 ounce, and 16 ounce glass bottles."




Fate of the Fragrance:


The original version of Chaos has been discontinued and can be hard to find. In 2008, Donna Karan released Chaos as a limited edition in only a few exclusive shops, but as of 2017, it too has been discontinued.






Heure Intime by Vigny c1933

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Heure Intime by Vigny: launched in 1933. Created by perfumer Jacques Vogel.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic woody, floral amber fragrance for women. It begins with soapy aldehydic top note, followed by a rich spicy floral heart, resting on a warm, woodsy amber base with an animalic punch. It was said to be "lovely for furs".
  • Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, orange blossom, bergamot, and lily of the valley
  • Middle notes: spices, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, carnation, beeswax, and lilac
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, vanilla, ambergris, and vetiver




Bottles:


Cylindrical Parfum Bottles:

These contained 1/2 oz of parfum and were made by Baccarat starting in 1923, and were used for other Vigny perfumes such as Golliwogg. It was also used by other companies such as Gabilla (in (1923), Weil (in 1933), D'Orsay, Molyneux (in 1940 for Rue Royale), and Jean Desprez (in 1962). This bottle design was discontinued in 1939 for Vigny perfumes.




The ad above reads: "You probably haven't seen that grotesque Golliwogg head since the war. Its fuzzy-wuzzy fur comes from Siberia...that grinning face is hand painted in France, Vigny just couldn't get either one during the war so they put their famous Golliwogg perfume in plain bottles. Next fall, the Golliwoggs will be back...and what happens to the plain bottles? YOU get them..with the same wonderful perfumes and colognes..but at a big savings. Vigny's going to repackage Heure Intime, too, so these perfumes and colognes are included in the Sale...and you save 1/2 to 1/3."





Parfum Grenade Bottles:

Heure Intime was first issued in the so-called grenade flacon starting in 1933. The first instance of the 5/16 oz size seems to be 1944 in a newspaper ad.
  • Standard Deluxe 4 oz bottle stands 5.75" tall and has glass stopper
  • Medium De Luxe 2 oz
  • Junior De Luxe  2/7 oz stands 3 1/8" tall
  • Small De Luxe 5/8 oz bottle stands 3 3/8" tall and has glass stopper
  • 5/16 oz bottle stands 2 3/8" tall and has glass stopper
  • 5/28 oz mini bottle stands 2" tall and has gold screw cap
  • 1/5 oz bottle stands 1.75" tall





Eau de Cologne Grenade Bottle:

The Eau de Cologne and its bottle was first introduced in 1939:
  • Factice stands 9" tall
  • 8 oz bottle stands 5.75" tall and has a lucite stopper
  • 4 oz bottle stands 4.75" tall and has a white plastic stopper
  • 2 oz bottle stands 4" tall and has a lucite stopper
  • 2 oz bottle stands 3.75" tall and has a white plastic stopper
  • 1 oz bottle stands and has a lucite stopper





Eau de Toilette Grenade Bottle:

  • 4 oz bottle stands 4.75" tall and has gold screw cap.
Lotion Bottle:
  • 3.75" tall and has white plastic stopper


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown, possibly in the early 1970s. The last time I see it offered for sale is in a 1972 newspaper ad.


Grain de Folie by Parfums Nicky Verfaillie c1981

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Grain de Folie by Parfums Nicky Verfaillie (Monique "Nicky" Verfaillie): launched in 1982.

A verbatim translation of "Grain de Folie" is "grain of frivolity."



In 1984, Rosemarie Stack, wife of late actor Robert Stack, purchased the distribution rights of Grain de Sable from Nicky Verfaillie. Under their distribution company, Rosemary Stack, Ltd, two more fragrances as part of the Les Grains line were launched including Grain de Folie and Grain de Passion. 

Why did she pick this adventure? Stack explains, "A friend who lives in Paris was wearing the most beautiful fragrance. I, of course asked what are you wearing. It was Grain de Sable. My friend happened to do public relations for Nicky Verfaillie, the Paris company that makes the perfume. So she started sending it to me because it was unavailable in this country. You might say that it all began with the love of a fragrance and evolved into a distributorship. It's a very successful fragrance in Europe...This is pretty much my baby." 

The appeal of the fragrances were just as hot in America as it was on the European continent. One such examples was a demand of $1,100 worth of Grain de Folie which was purchased by a Saudi Arabian princess. The order was received at at 4:30pm the day before the introduction of the perfumes at the department store. The princess bought the entire store stock because she wanted every one of her ladies in waiting to wear the same fragrance she wore. Mrs. Stack hand carried the fragrance on a plane to San Francisco the following morning.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It starts with a fruity, dry, fresh top, followed by an elegant floral heart of sweet melon alongside papaya, jasmine and rose, resting on a warm, woody base.
  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, aldehyde, galbanum, estragon, fruit note
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, clove buds, orris
  • Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, amber, cedar, civet, leather, castoreum


The line consisted of the following:

  • 1 oz Cologne Spray




Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued, date unknown. Probably around 1985.






Christian Lacroix by Christian Lacroix c1999

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Christian Lacroix by Christian Lacroix: launched in 1999. The fragrance, created by Sophia Grojsman, is strongly inspired by Lacroix's native region of sunny Provence. 

It was first only available at Saks Fifth Avenue stores.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: mandarin, carnation, tarragon, freesia, peach, Brazilian rosewood, hyacinth,
  • Middle notes: daffodil, coriander, magnolia, Casablanca lily, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: exotic spices, sandalwood, tonka bean, benzoin, vanilla, musk, incense


Bottle:

The fragrance is housed in the familiar smooth, seashell shaped bubble glass bottle used for other Lacroix scents. The bottle is packaged in a box that features the Theatre of Aries in bas relief.


The fragrance is available in the following:
  • 1.16 oz Parfum Spray
  • 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum
  • 4.2 oz Eau de Parfum
  • Body Lotion
  • Body Cream
  • Shower Gel
  • Bath Beads
  • Dusting Powder
  • Soap

Fate of the Fragrance:


Christian Lacroix, the fragrance was followed up by Eau Florale in 2001.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: violet leaf, bergamot , tangerine
  • Middle notes: cyclamen, tuberose, gardenia, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: iris, sandalwood, cedar

The fragrance was housed in the same seashell bottle as it's predecessor and was available in the following:
  • 2.5 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 4.2 oz Eau de Toilette

Unfortunately, both fragrances have been discontinued.

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric c1946

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Dark Brilliance by Lentheric: launched in 1946.

Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was a heavy, sweet floral perfume on a warm animalic, spicy, ambery base. Heavy on the acacia.
  • Top notes: citrus, aldehydes, acacia
  • Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, cinnamon, gardenia, jasmine, tuberose, carnation
  • Base notes: spices, ambergris, civet, benzoin, musk, oakmoss, myrrh, castoreum, sandalwood, patchouli

I just tested a small amount on my skin from a sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells mossy, fuzzy, then extremely sweet with gardenia and tuberose, much like vintage Fracas perfume, this lasts for quite awhile, then I get a hint of a slightly soapy Bulgarian rose, and a slightly indolic jasmine breaking through.  At the end of the drydown, mingling with amber, soft spices, incense and woodsy notes, you can smell the civet and some "fuzzy" castoreum.  This is an extremely nice, sultry, definitely an evening perfume. After an hour, I still smell some of the animalic and sweet floral notes.

On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy, with only a short breath of the flowers, I feel that only on the skin does the super sweet gardenia and tuberose blend become very apparent and much more enjoyable.

If you are looking for a beautiful vintage perfume, try this one!






The New Yorker - Volume 22, 1946:
"Never in any season have there been more good, new scents around, and a lot of them were first sniffed in Paris — Lentheric's Dark Brilliance, for instance, which is rich and mellow but contains enough citrus to keep it lively. "

Glass Packer, Volume 26, 1946:
"LENTHERIC'S first new perfume in seven years, "Dark Brilliance, will be imported from France and distribution to American shops will be gradual. Rich and spicy, it is truly a winter fragrance in keeping with fine furs and social comings."

Los Angeles School Journal - Volume 30, 1946:
"Dark Brilliance de Lentheric; Intriguing fragrance, irresistible to the true sophisticate. 2 ounces, 30.00."

Home Journal - Volume 107, 1953:
"Lentheric's Dark Brilliance, with a strongly flowered, exotic timbre."





Bottles: 

Parfum:

Dark Brilliance Parfum (extrait) was contained in a gorgeous crystal flacon with a rectangular base which flares upwards. The words "Dark Brilliance de Lentheric" is silk screened in yellow ochre serigraphy on the front of the bottle. The bottle is fitted with a frosted glass stopper resembling a knot. I believe the bottle was manufactured by Verreries Brosse in France. The bottle was designed by Frank McIntosh and was granted a design patent number 149507 (originally filed in 1946 and granted in 1948).



The bottle is housed inside of a pretty presentation box covered in black paper and adorned with a large multicolored braided yarn tassel. The box was lined in rayon satin.

The bottle was available in various sizes:

  • 3/4 oz (21ml) bottle stands 3.25" tall.
  • 2 oz bottle stands almost 4" tall.
  • 6 oz 

When the fragrance was first introduced it retailed for $15 for the 3/4 oz, $30 for the 2 oz and $75 for the 6 oz bottle in 1946. It was also available for $2.50 per dram (1/8 oz).



Bouquet Lentheric:

Dark Brilliance was also available in the Bouquet Lentheric daytime fragrance in various bottles. The prettiest of all was the one that closely resembled the bottle used for the parfum. This tall flacon was made up of clear crystal and had the identical frosted glass knot stopper. The 4 oz bottle stands 5.5" tall.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1960.




Youthful Secrets Formerly Fantasy Perfumes Designer Imposter Perfumes

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Youthful Secrets (formerly Fantasy Perfumes) distributed their versions of popular perfumes, otherwise known as "designer imposter perfumes". The "Youthful Secrets" brand was sold by the Seta Corporation and was available to airline passengers at deeply discounted prices. One ounce bottles of these oil based knockoff perfumes sold for just $19.99 as opposed to much higher prices for their genuine designer counterparts. The Youthful Secrets line was trademarked in 1989.



These perfumes were only identified by a number so if you need to know which fragrance your numbered bottle was supposed to mimic, use my handy guide below.



  • Item #29 - Chanel No. 5
  • Item #31 - Joy
  • Item #34 - L'Air du Temps
  • Item #37 - Opium
  • Item #38 - Oscar de la Renta
  • Item #39 - Shalimar
  • Item #41 - White Shoulders
  • Item #43 - Passion
  • Item #45 - Obsession
  • Item #46 - Poison
  • Item #48 - Coco 




Anny Blatt

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Anny Blatt, a French designer, famous for her knitwear clothing. She was one of the first to launch hand knitted clothing for women.



The perfumes of Anny Blatt:
  • 1934 Parfum d'Anny
  • 1946 Anny Blatt Parfum No 1 
  • 1953 Chashir 


Parfum d'Anny. 

Oakland Tribune,  29 Nov 1934:
"Anny Blatt of Paris has designed a series of children's models - from three to fourteen- concosted a new perfume called "Parfum d'Anny" just for good luck. The perfume is for sports, refreshing and refined yet with a sort of woodsy tang that is delightful."



Parfum No.1:


Rivista italiana essenze, profumi, piante officinali... 1946:
"Carven gave us Griffe; Anny Blatt «N. 1»; Fath, very modern, and romantic at the same time, has baptized his own, Atome and Iris Gris. The hairdresser Renè Garrand has he sang his Saltimbanque fragrance in memory of the work of Maurice Ordenne, who, like him, saw the birth of Moulin Rabier. One wonders: why the shirt makers, the modiste, the shoemakers should not have too, their little perfumes? Nothing seemed to be able to prepare Carrère for the art of perfumer. Or rather yes, because the most known couples, the most expensive artists to the public, came to sit at his tables, to declaim, sing, act or talk ......."




Cashir:



La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey c1924

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La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey: launched in 1924. Originally created by Isabey's chief perfumer, Robert Bienaimé.

The fanciful name refers to the so-called Emerald Route. The route delivered precious stones and other valuables from the southern regions of Asia, to Iran and the Near East.




Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no notes on the original 1924 composition, but I imagine it may be similar to the modern formula.


Bottle:


Bottle designed in 1924 by Julien Viard, perfume bottle and stopper, clear and frosted crystal, accented with grey patina. Box decorated with scrolling floral motifs. Molded J.Viard. 4 7/8" tall.




Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume was discontinued probably sometime in the 1930s.

In 2012, Isabey released a modern interpretation of La Route d'Emeraude by perfumer Jean Jacques and designer Rania Naim. The name was borrowed from the 1920s perfume and was inspired by journeys to the emerald triangle of Thailand, Laos and Cambodia.
  • Top notes: bergamot, rose oil and cinnamon. 
  • Middle notes: Sambac jasmine, Moroccan jasmine absolute, orange blossom and tuberose. 
  • Base notes: amber, vanilla, benzoin and musk


I received samples directly from Panouge for the purposes of completing this article on the modern fragrances La Route d'Emeraude and Perle de La Route d'Emeraude. All opinions are my own.


My impression of La Route d'Emeraude:

Wow! This actually smells vintage! The perfumer has created a well blended reformulation of a long forgotten fragrance. When applied to my skin, I get a burst of zesty bergamot followed by cinnamon dusted jammy rose petals. Then, a flourishing white floral pleasure garden appears. Two types of jasmine: the night blooming Sambac jasmine and Moroccan jasmine lend their absolutes to the heart of the fragrance. This pairing of jasmine lends a sharp, green note that compliments the fresh bergamot still shining through to the lusty center of the perfume. The voluptuous tuberose, who's own sweetness enhances that of the orange blossom, suggests carnal opulence. The drydown unfurls a precious ambergris and musk base, enveloped by a sensual embrace of balsamic benzoin and dreamy vanilla.  


In 2014, Isabey introduced a limited edition extrait for La Route d'Emeraude. Known as Perle de La Route d'Emeraude, the fragrance is housed inside of a 50 ml round flacon based on the 1924 "perle" designed flacon. In this case, instead of the pearly nacre that decorated the original 1920s bottles, La Route d'Emeraude is housed inside of an opaque gilded glass flacon. The presentation box is covered in an apricot colored leather and lined with rose gold satin. The extrait is a concentrated and intensified version of La Route d'Emeraude.
  • Top notes: cinnamon, orange blossom absolute, bergamot
  • Middle notes: iris, tuberose,  jasmine essence, rose essence, ylang ylang essence
  • Base notes: musk, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, amber


My thoughts on Perle de La Route d'Emeraude:

This is a richer, intense version of the former perfume. The fragrance opens with a lush shower of fresh petals. This masterful blending combines honeyed orange blossoms mixed with bubblegum jasmine. Fruity ylang ylang provides a trace of a ripe tropical banana, while bright bergamot lifts the heaviness of the white flowers to give it some buoyancy. A subtle hint of a green rose plays hide and seek amongst the irises. Cinnamon adds a lively counterpoint to the slightly saccharine bouquet. A deep ambery base reveals a balsamic marriage of benzoin and vanilla layered over a powdery, musky base. This would be ideal to be worn for an intimate evening, the perfume begs one to get closer as it stays quite close to the skin with an elegantly restrained projection.









Magic Beat by Max Factor c1986

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In 1986, Max Factor released Magic Beat, it's trio of fragrances specifically designed for teenagers in conjunction with singer Michael Jackson.

Magic Beat was under a license from Michael Jackson to use his picture and signature in promoting the line. Entertainment Properties paid $18 million for the right to market the Michael memorabilia.




 Max Factor planned the availability of Magic Beat for October to coincide with the release of Jackson's new album, new music video, his young sportswear line and upcoming concert tour.

Max Factor spokeswoman, Amy Manasabitz claimed Jackson was chosen to launch the product because "he was the embodiment of teenagers...His impact on teen lifestyles in unparalleled." The advertising was androgynous, and referred to teens without mentioning which gender it was meant for.

The announcement of the latest project was made in an album like cover, with press information tucked into the jacket where an album should be. The Max Factor promotional campaign kit for stores about the Magic Beat collection of colognes: Unwind, Heartbeat and Wildfire. Included are documents about the marketing events, a calendar of events for 1986 and 1987, and the official picture-disc of Thriller (with a second sticker on it saying "for promotion only, ownership reserved by CBS, sale is unlawful").



The product line was introduced to more than 1500 stores nationwide including, JC Penney, Sears, Target and Montgomery Ward. Max Factor and Entertainment Properties did a coast to coast promotional tour to promote that fragrance, with a Michael Jackson lookalike. Jackson himself did not make any appearances because as Warren Hirsch, president of Entertainment Properties explained, "if you brought him into a retail establishment, your major problem would be crowd control."

Hirsch predicted $6 to $10 million in licensing sales.


The Fragrances:


The Magic Beat collection consisted of three different fragrances:

  • Unwind, a soft fragrance with citrus, lavender and vanilla highlights is targeted to a teen's casual lifestyle. 
  • Heartbeat with it's rich combination of soft, light, floral and woody undertones was meant for the romantically inclined.
  • Wildfire is a sensual scent with floral and amber notes, sweetened with vanilla for adventuresome types.



The Collection:


The Magic Beat line was approved by Jackson and authorized with his signature. The Magic Beat collection was housed in moon shaped bottles and star shaped packaging to capture the attention of 12-18 year old girls. Various novelty items were added to the packaging such as a 0.12 oz scented ink pen (a glorified magic marker for $4.95), a cologne mousse containing gold glitter for a shimmer highlight effect on the skin ($5.50), a perfume and Magic Star necklace gift set for $8.95. The spray on perfume cost $5.95 and the splash on cologne for $2.95.

By November, 1986, many of the products were put on sale just in time for Christmas.





The Reactions:


The December 1986 Los Angeles Times newspaper ran an article about one of their reporters who headed to a Starkey's Deli and Arcade at the Beverly Center,  Beverly Hills mall, with all three of the fragrances to see what local teens had to say about the product.

Grace Chu, a 15 year old, said she "used to be crazy about Michael when he was popular." She usually wore Cacharel's soft floral Anais- Anais and voted for Heartbeat. Chu said that "it's softer than the other two. I'd wear it for anything special but not school."

Sisters Michele and Carol Clausen, ages 14 and 16, preferred Unwind because it "smelled expensive" (probably the closest fragrance to their favorite brand, Estee Lauder), and they would "wear it on a date". They did not favor Wildfire because they felt it was "too cheap smelling".

A 16 year old girl, Mahan Soleymani, chose Unwind and said she would "be attracted to a guy wearing the sexy fragrance." Already a wearer of Lagerfeld's Chloe, she chose Wildfire for herself.

An "unidentified Trivia Whiz player" could not be bothered to interrupt her video game playing to take the perfume test because, she claimed "they stink too much already  and they're not even out of the bag."


What did women above the test market have to say? 21 year old Londoner Nancy Lillian said she prefers fragrances which are "light and fruity" and if she had to choose, she would pick Wildfire. However, she said it was "too light and doesn't last really." She also mentioned that Heartbeat gave her "a headache."

From a guy's point of view, 16 year old Steve Choi, was reluctant to even try the fragrances, and liked Obsession, he sad he "would not buy any of the Magic Beat perfumes." While Sean Freed, 18, said he was not a fan of Michael Jackson but he voted for Heartbeat, saying that "if a girl was wearing Heartbeat, it would get my attention, Wildfire is too bland smelling. Sweat smells better."



The Fate of the Fragrances:


By December 1986, the sales dwindled and within 2 months of it's debut, the line was considered a flop. The cause: image reduction. Everything in 1986 was Michael, Michael, Michael, not only a singer, but a conglomerate. There were scores of Michael Jackson licensed products: microphone, sportswear line, toy pets based on Michael's zoo, sunglasses, Disney movie, doll, watches, a glittering sequined glove (I actually had this), not to mention his Pepsi commercials.

Other causes were lack of target clientele and the scents themselves.

The reaction was captured from Elizabeth Garo in a December 1986 newspaper article where department store fragrance counters revealed the bad news.

Jessie Childers, manager at JC Penney in Downey, said that it "wasn't selling so I returned it to the company. I needed room for other items." Betty Larsen, manager at Lakewood JC Penney, did the same, and added that "I felt that the perfume was aimed at younger people and we don't have that kind of clientele." The Carson JC Penney never carried the Magic Beat fragrances, but an employee from the store mentioned that "we do carry the LaToya Jackson bath oil from the Mahogany line and that sells a lot."

Saleswoman from Long Beach Target, Sheri Adams, said "It's highlighted as a 'New at Target' item, so it's still on a trial basis. People are rummaging through the display but it's not really selling."

Sales at the Lakewood Montgomery Ward did not fare any better, as manager Genevea Salvero claims, I have almost as much in as when we first got it. We'll probably send it back. Customers will look at it, smell it - but won't buy it." The Torrance Montgomery Ward however reported strong responses for the Wildfire and Heartbeat perfumes.

An anonymous employee at the Sears store in Cerritos, mentioned that "People like the packaging because it's so bright, but as for smelling it, they don't like it. We have plenty of the perfumes left. Usually the kids just look at it."

A Max Factor publicist ventured that "it's still too early to discuss sales figures." In 1987, Cheryl Scott-Daniels, vice president of fragrance marketing for Max Factor explained that the failure was due to bad timing. The perfume line was scheduled to coincide with the release of Jackson's new album, however, the album was delayed by the time the perfume was introduced.


However, by 1988, the line was discontinued.

Ivoire de Balmain c1979

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Ivoire de Balmain: launched in 1979. Created by Michel Hy and Francis Camail of Florasynth. Pierre Balmain stated that he was inspired by his lifelong "desire to create elegance and beauty for women."





This fragrance was allegedly inspired by the sight of a beautiful British woman at the Paris Opera in 1978. She was dressed in pale white silk, which provided a radiant contrast to the rich black tuxedos and deep carmine upholstery of her surroundings.

He mentioned that he created the perfume with the particular memory of that woman, he said she was "dressed in white, lavished with pearls. Seated upon a crimson lounge, her languid and slightly haughty elegance overcame the starkness of the black formal attire which surrounded her. It was at this moment, as the overture began and the house lights dimmed, that I dreamed of creating a perfume for her."


Art & Design magazine stated in 1986, that Balmain "has recently negotiated the purchase of the range from Revlon by a Belgian Banking Group of the COBEPA. The best-seller in the luxury range is undoubtedly Ivoire created in memory of Queen Sirikit of Thailand, one of his favourite clients."



Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is described as a soft fresh green fruity floral woody fragrance for women. It begins with a green aldehydic top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a powdery, sensual base.

Original formula:
  • Top notes: aldehydes, chamomile, asafoetida, galbanum, mandarin orange, violet, artemisia, marigold, bergamot and lemon
  • Middle notes: hyacinth, orchid, nutmeg, neroli, jonquil, carnation, cinnamon, narcissus, pepper, orris root, jasmine, geranium, Turkish rose absolute, orange blossom absolute, ylang-ylang and lily-of-the-valley
  • Base notes: olibanum, wormwood, cedar, liatrix, frankincense, sandalwood, tonka bean, ambergris, patchouli, musk, raspberry, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and incense. 

Pierre Balmain described the fragrance, "It captures a dream of my long life of a certain kind of elegance, a mixture of exotic and up-to-date, it is for somebody of our times, but looking to the future."


Available as:
  • 1/4 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum in Crystal Decanter
  • 1/2 oz Parfum Spray
  • 1.7 oz Parfum Spray
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 1 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 1.7 oz Body Creme Parfumee 
  • 8 1/3 oz Body Creme Parfumee 
  • 6.8 oz Bath & Shower Foaming Oil
  • 5.3 oz Perfumed Soap




Bottles:


The bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand in 1979. The bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval. The plastic components were supplied by MBF Plastiques.

Please use the guide below to help you determine how old your bottle is.
  • If there is a barcode on the box, this perfume dates to after 1989. 
  • Starting in 1992, the Green Dot recycling symbol will appear on the box.
  • From 1998-2003, a short list of ingredients are listed on the box.
  • By 2004, there will be a long list of ingredients listed on the box.
  • Finally, review the photos below to give approximate dates for bottles and packaging.






Limited Edition Bottle:


Gorgeous cut crystal perfume bottle manufactured by Cristalleries Saint -Louis and held 1 oz Parfum. This fine Crystal Decanter was from the Collection de Imperatrice and was a limited edition of only 500 examples. It  retailed for $400 in 1984.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Ivoire was reformulated in 1999 by Michel Almairac and Jacques Flori into a fruity floral woody fragrance for women.


In 2012, Ivoire de Balmain was simply named Ivoire, reformulated, repackaged and relaunched. This was to be the brand’s first launch under new licensing arrangements with InterParfums.

From Balmain:
"Ivoire, quintessence of a dream, Ivoire is a floral bouquet, as a tribute to the beauty of women. The fragrance opens with a deliciously intoxicating fruity note of mandarin and orange essence. The floral accord dresses the aerial heart of the fragrance. Its woody trail sublimate the elegance and sensuality of women."




So what does the reformulated version smell like? It is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: orange and mandarin, violet leaves
  • Middle notes: ylang ylang, jasmine, rose, pepper and galbanum 
  • Base notes: vetiver, cedarwood, patchouli, incense and vanilla

Available as:
  • 0.15 oz Parfum 
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray

Eau d’Ivoire was released in 2000. A green floral fragrance with notes of bergamot, raspberry, green freesia, mandarin, ylang-ylang, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose and amber.



Eau d’Ivoire was reformulated and relaunched in 2013. An edt with notes of bergamot, red currant, osmanthus, magnolia, musk ambrettolide and patchouli. Presented in 50 ml bottle.


Time Line to Date Your Bottle:


Please use the guide below to help you determine how old your bottle is.
  • Revlon purchased the Balmain fragrance license in 1960 and held it until 2012.
  • Ivoire de Balmain was first launched in 1979, in USA in 1981.
  • If there is a barcode on the box, this perfume dates to after 1989. 
  • Starting in 1992, the Green Dot recycling symbol will appear on the box.
  • From 1998-2003, a short list of ingredients are listed on the box.
  • By 2004, there will be a long list of ingredients listed on the box.
  • Eau d'Ivoire was first launched in 2000.
  • Ivoire de Balmain was simply named Ivoire, reformulated, repackaged and relaunched in 2012 and you can find the Interparfums name on packaging. 
  • Eau d'Ivoire was reformulated and repackaged as an eau de toilette in a 50ml size bottle in 2013.

Finally, review the photos in this article to give approximate dates for bottles and packaging.

Callot Soeurs

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Callot Soeurs was a couture house established in 1895 by three sisters Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand and Regine Callot Chantrelle at 9-10 avenue Matignon, Paris.

The sisters were famous for their usage of antique laces, ribbons and textiles during their early years as well as the popular oriental style adapted by Paul Poiret during the 'teens and 'twenties incorporating silver and gold lame.



The business owners dwindled one by one through deaths and retirement until it was ran single handed by Marie Callot Gerber for seven years, and like other fashion designers of the period, the company introduced perfumes in 1923. Flirting with the themes of orientalism and cubism, the styles were reflected in their perfume names and their flacons.  La Fille du Roi de Chine (daughter of the king of China) is a perfect example.

Other names were reminiscent of fashions. The perfume La Cabine des Mannequins, means "the fitting room", while La Châle Indien means "the Indian shawl", Bao is Vietnamese for "purse".

Whimsical phrases and romantic themes aso dominated the fashion designer's perfume names. Bel Oiseau Bleu (the beautiful blue bird),  Mariage d'Amour (marriage of love), Il Pleut des Baisers (it's raining kisses), Beau Réves (sweet dreams), Le Dieu du Jour (the god of the day), Le Préféré des Belles (the preferred beauties).



On the death of Marie Callot Gerber in 1927, her two sons Jacques and Pierre were left in charge, however, the company was hit hard by the stock market crash of 1929 and the business was absorbed by Calvet in 1937. Their fragrances were available for sale until the early 1950’s.


The New Yorker, 1928:
"Callot has sets of five different perfumes, attractively boxed, $12.50; sets of eleven, $22.50. She can take her pick and get one big bottle next year."





The perfumes of Callot Soeurs:
  • 1920 Bel Oiseau Bleu
  • 1923 Chichi Callot
  • 1924 Ambré
  • 1924 Chypre
  • 1924 La Fille du Roi de Chine
  • 1924 Mariage d’Amour
  • 1925 100
  • 1925 101
  • 1925 103
  • 1925 105
  • 1925 107
  • 1925 108
  • 1925 109
  • 1925 Jasmin
  • 1925 Le Dieu du Jour
  • 1925 Le Louis d’Or
  • 1925 Pensées Roses
  • 1925 Sourire de Cocea
  • 1925 T.S.F.
  • 1931 Qu'en Dira T'On
  • 1940 Jeep
  • 1947 Bao
  • 1948 Plein Ciel
  • Avenue Matignon
  • Beau Reves
  • c1920s La Cabine des Mannequins
  • Caresses
  • Il Pleut des Baisers
  • La Chale Indien
  • La Michaudiere
  • Le Prefere des Belles






Callot Soeurs had a knack for mixing styles to become artful and pleasing presentations for their perfumes, especially the sultry orientalism and avant garde cubism which was very trendy during the 1920s. The deluxe perfume bottle for La Fille du Roi de Chine was a cubist style clear crystal flacon in the shape of a shoe, it's fanciful shape recalls the Chinese lotus shoe used for centuries to hold the legendary bound foot of a woman. A lesser expensive bottle was simply shaped like a Chinese snuff bottle, made of clear glass and topped with a green glass button stopper. The fragrance of La Fille du Roi de Chine was a woody oriental fragrance for women with a distinctive leather chypre accord. The bottle was also used for the perfume Le Dieu du Jour.


For the perfume Bel Oiseau Bleu (Beautiful Blue Bird), a somewhat expression of loneliness and romanticism was presented in the form of a simple bottle with enamelled decorations depicting an empty cage on the front and a blue bird on the back. The flacon was designed by Lucien Gaillard. This is the same bottle used for the lesser expensive example for the perfume Bel Oiseau Bleu.








The perfumes ultimately remained a sign of the times during the 1940s, with the perfume Jeep, it's bottle displayed a frosted glass stopper molded with the wheel of the wartime vehicle. Its presentation box features an embossed image of an early style of the Jeep. The bottle was designed by Lucienne Coudert.



The perfume Mariage d'Amour was scented with lilies, it's bottle boasted a frosted glass stopper molded with Cupid's bow and quiver holding arrows of love. This bottle too, was designed by Lucienne Coudert.

The perfumes for Bao and Dieu du Jour were housed in the same flacon, a tall square bottle topped by a frosted glass stopper molded with two simple scrolling motifs. Designed by Pierre Camin.






CB Rocca

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CB Rocca of Paris, France, launched a range of perfumes.





The perfumes of Rocca:
  • 1897 Narcisse
  • 1897 Wonderful
  • 1920 Brise d’Or
  • 1920 Evéil des Roses
  • 1920 Nigella des Indes
  • 1920 Oliane
  • 1920 Paradis Revi
  • 1920 Roccalis
  • 1921 Îles de Roy
  • 1921 Mon Succes
  • 1926 Divin Muguet
  • 1927 Violet Supreme
  • 1927 Ambassador


The perfumes Nigella des Indes, Oliane, Paradis Revi, Roccalis,and Îles de Roy were presented in flacons by Cristalleries de Baccarat.

The perfume Ambassador was housed in a round, black glass bottle with a gold stopper, encased in a leather, finished in red and gold.

The miniature bottle for the perfume Divin Muguet was presented in a jewelled suede pouch.




Allez Hop by Jovoy c1924

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Allez Hop by Jovoy: launched in 1924.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was reportedly a floral fragrance for women.







Bottles:


Allez Hop! was contained in a most amusing bottle in the shape of a dalmatian puppy, with the stopper being the dog's cute little head. Made up of clear and frosted glass with enameled accents. A pink satin bow was tied around the dog's neck with a small oval paper label.

Bottle stands 4.5" tall and holds 2 ounces of parfum. It's presentation set was meant to convey the look of a wicker dog bed with a coral hued satin interior, all contained inside of an square, orange colored outer box decorated with splotches of metallic gold ink.

This originally sold for $12.50 in 1924 which according to an inflation calculator would be the equivalent of about $180.31 in 2018. By 1927, the price dropped to $6.00, which today would be about $86.55.








Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1927. This bottle is a rare find today, and even rarer when found with it's dog bed presentation intact.

Variations by Carven c1971

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Variations by Carven: launched in 1971.






Fragrance Composition
:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral oriental fragrance for women with a chypre base. It begins with a green top note, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a floral, mild powdery, mossy base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, pineapple, galbanum, bergamot, violet, cassis
  • Middle notes: narcissus, orris, jasmine, hyacinth, Bulgarian rose, Indian carnation, lily of the valley, lilac, ylang ylang
  • Base notes: cedar, leather, vetiver, oakmoss, musk, French labdanum, sandalwood, amber

Bottles:


The bottle was designed by Gérard Mannoni and comprised up of a clear glass bottle with a bulbous base and long neck, surrounded by a geometric plexiglass sculpture.


Basic perfume sold in a small case with 3 separate essences, allowing women to create their own fragrance.








Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1980.

In 2000, Variations was reformulated with modern ingredients and relaunched in new packaging.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, hyacinth
  • Middle notes: cloves, green tea, raspberry and lilac
  • Base notes: vetiver, oakmoss, musk, French labdanum, sandalwood, amber



Toujours Moi by Corday c1923

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Toujours Moi by Corday: launched in 1923 in France, in USA by 1924. Toujours Moi (Always Me) started life as the favored incense used in the Notre Dame cathedral of France. Hundreds of years later in 1923, the great House of Corday translated that incense into a classic perfume which would be known as their signature fragrance.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Toujours Moi is classified as an oriental fragrance for women, described as an exotic and woodsy.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, cognac, bergamot, peach, plum, petitgrain, lemon, raspberry, orange blossom, jasmine, almond, thyme
  • Middle notes:  geranium, clove, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, lavender, lily of the valley, lilac, heliotrope, rose, frankincense, myrrh, honey, carnation, hay
  • Base notes: patchouli, amber, sandalwood,  musk, vetiver, benzoin, leather, camphor, tobacco, Tolu balsam, tonka bean, vanilla, oakmoss, castoreum

In 1973, Toujours Moi was available in the following products:
  • 1/8 oz Purse Perfume
  • 1/4 oz Perfume
  • 1/2 oz Perfume
  • 3 oz Perfume Spray
  • 2 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 4 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 2.5 oz Spraygrance Cologne
  • 2.5 oz Pure Spray Cologne
  • 4 oz Bath Powder
  • 2 oz Oil for the Bath


Bottles:


The bottle and its packaging designs were originally designed by Lucien Gaillard, a jeweler from Paris who was a close friend of Rene Lalique. They both shared similar styles of design and after seeing some of Gaillard’s work, Lalique urged his friend to get back into the jewelry business.

At this time, other designers such as Lalique and Julien Viard were also designing perfume bottles for clients. The Toujours Moi bottle features simple money plants cascading down the bottle in a sinuous Art Nouveau fashion. This area is usually found gilded with thick enamel. Corday used this flacon design for both the Toujours Moi and Toujours Toi perfumes.





This design was incorrectly attributed to Rene Lalique in the book ‘Perfume Bottle Masterpieces’ by Ball & Torem. The bottle was filed for a patent by Charles J Oppenheim Jr. in 1925.


1/4 oz parfum flacon with screw cap, c1950s. Photo by ebay seller ionlywant.


Period Advertisements:


Drug and Cosmetics Industry, 1938:
"Corday is introducing new sizes in Toujours Moi Eau de Cologne. Three sizes are now available, 2 ½ oz, 5 oz, and 8 oz. The flask is a lovely duplicate of the perfume bottle and the Cologne has a delightfully refreshing fragrance."







c1942 ad





Fate of the Fragrance:


Sometime in the early 1960s, Max Factor bought out Corday (who was later bought out by Dana), and relaunched some of their well known perfumes such as Toujours Moi and Toujours Toi, along with Fame, and some others. The original Corday version of the perfume was discontinued in 1961.

In 1961, Max Factor relaunched the Corday greats. I found a newspaper advertisement from 1967 that showed the Max Factor perfumes & Corday scents together, they let the Corday name stand on it's own merit as it was so well known and respected. They described Toujours Moi as a "mossy blend, subtly unforgettable", and Fame as a "captivating floral".

The Toujours Moi that Max Factor released after buying up Corday was close to the original that Corday made. This version was more uplifting, deeper, spicier, rich and smooth, and the color was lighter.

The one that Dana put out in 1995 was completely different, with a noticeably cheap and synthetic scent, harsh and acidic and murky in color and disappointed many buyers. Though after the first initial spray of the top notes disappears, the drydown of the perfume settles into a spicy, deep woodsiness.



Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan c1992

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Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan: launched in September 1992. Created by Jean-Claude Delville and Pierre Wargnye.

Spurred by her husband Stephan Weiss' desire to leave a lasting legacy beyond her fashion house, Donna Karan entered the world of fragrance. Taking a cue from Coco Chanel, whose iconic fashion empire was revived by her perfume ventures, Karan's husband persuaded her with the eventual fact that "hemlines go up and down, but fragrance is forever".

However, Karan was less than thrilled as she noted in her autobiography My Journey, "I hate fragrance. Hate!... I truly did. It was always too strong, too fake, too old-lady-ish. I loved essential oils or the clean, fresh scent of shampoo and soap."

Weiss promised her "We will make a fragrance you love. We will create and control everything about it." Remembering her love of Casablanca lilies, they started there and went onto the next scent..."What else do you like?" he asked her. "Vicuna suede," she replied.


The New Yorker - Volume 70, 1994:
"It took Karan and Weiss five years to approve a formula for their first beauty product, Donna Karan New York Parfum. Weiss would bring vials of the "juice" home for doctoring. When Karan thought the mix needed a citrus note, he added grapefruit essence.  
Cosimo Policastro, a fragrance specialist at International Flavors & Fragrances, told me, "I gave Stephan pipettes, and he would call and say, 'I added a hundred drops of this material, five drops of that material."Designers will come in and evaluate the fragrances, but I've never had anyone come in and work from the ground up in the lab." In addition to revising the scent, Weiss, at Karan's urging, also designed the bottles of the fragrance line. They are black and gold plated recyclable plastic (except the glass bottle for the high priced perfume), in abstract forms that would be familiar to anyone who knows Weiss's sculptures but are puzzling, if not risible (silly), to others. 
At Arnell/Bickford Associates, which designed Karan's Everywoman marketing campaign, the model shop craftsmen who created the packaging product only when anything 'passed inspection' with her taste level," Julius Stern, an executive vice-president of the company who has worked with her since her Anne Klein days, told me."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leathery chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: Casablanca lily, pineapple, apricot, orange blossom, green notes, osmanthus, peach, bergamot
  • Middle notes: carnation, cassia, orchid, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang ylang, rose
  • Base notes: amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla, citruses, vetiver, incense, cedar, cashmere, suede

New York Magazine, 1993:
"“Designing is a personal expression of who I am,” says Donna Karan, who created the luxurious, modern system of layered dressing based on comfort, sensuality, and day-into-evening flexibility. 
"Scent is a woman's most basic, personal, and unique possession, " she believes, "and fragrance ought to be the first layer in dressing. I created Donna Karan New York Parfum to enhance the inner beauty that my husband Stephan Weiss - sculptor, artist, and kindred spirit - has taught me is the most invigorating and seductive kind of beauty a woman can capture for herself.”  
Donna Karan New York Parfum has the power to invigorate and the sensuality to arouse. “The fragrance reminds me of my favorite things: Casablanca lilies, the skin scent of suede, and the warmth of cashmere,” says Karan. It blends florals, natural earthy tones, and patchouli, amber and sandalwood. 
As sensual, personal, and modern as the fragrance itself, the Donna Karan New York Parfum bottle was designed by Stephan Weiss “for women with love and passion and commitment.” According to Karan, “The relationship between art and fashion is one of craftsmanship, ideas, creativity, and of responsibility to people, changing events, modern attitudes, and the way they all mix. It’s a natural combination, a marriage.” 
Donna Karan’s system of dressing has been translated into her recently launched Donna Karan New York Bath and Body products. “Just like the perfume, my beauty products are an extension of myself, my fashions, my needs, and my relationships. The products are gentle. Rather than perfume the skin, they moisturize, protect, and beautify it.” Scented with a subtle, clean scent, the collection softly blends with Donna Karan New York Parfum but can also be worn alone."

The fragrance was available in various products:
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Eau de Parfum Purse Spray
  • 1 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Splash
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Splash
  • 1.7 oz Bath & Body Brumisateur
  • Solid Perfume

In 1993, the perfume won the FiFi award for Women's Fragrance of the Year - Luxe.

A short while later bath and body products were introduced but as Karan explains in her autobiography that she "put her foot down. "I don't want to wash my face with my fragrance! Let's make the bath product scent subtler, cleaner, and softer. Once again, Stephan delivered: He took a few notes from the fragrance and we named the bath and body collection Cashmere Mist. The body lotion was its star. It sold five times the amount of any other product in the line, and almost the same amount as the original fragrance. I wore it morning, noon, and night."
  • Velvet Body Cream
  • Cashmere Body Lotion
  • Washed Silk Body Cleansing Lotion
  • Chiffon Body Powder
  • Satin Bath Bar



Bottles:

The Donna Karan Beauty Company was lucky in the fact that they had an in house sculptor to design their bottles for them, which would have added an extra cost if they had to contract out this job to someone else. An expert in using mixed media  and combining opposite materials for his own works of art, Weiss was able to utilize recycled plastic and glass to create beautiful bottles, today we would call this upcycling. He wanted bottles that felt good in a woman's hand and he wanted them to be modern, abstract shapes, but sensuous and evocative of women's curves, Karan noted that Weiss was especially fond of the curve of a woman's back.

The bottle used for the 1.7 oz and 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum is the graceful so-called "swan's neck" bottle made up of clear glass with a black and gold plastic shell. The top surface of the button on the spray mechanism is made up of thin rubber and has a tendency to malfunction over time due to the natural disintegration of the rubber coming into contact with the volatile perfume.



The 1/2 oz and 1 oz bottles used for the Pure Parfum (Extrait) were made up of clear glass with black and gold plastic fittings. The 1/8 oz Parfum bottle is black glass with plastic. 




Donna Karan New York Collector’s Edition 1 oz Perfume bottle was made up of clear crystal and had frosted and gold plastic fittings. This originally retailed for $450.

The 1/2 oz Eau de Parfum Purse Spray was a modified form of the swan's neck bottle, made up of clear glass with a black plastic shell without the gold trim.

 The 1 oz Eau de Parfum spray bottle was very simple, and looks a lot like a computer mouse. This design was made to look like a smooth and glossy river rock. The design was later adopted to be used solely for the Donna Karan Black Cashmere line.


Donna Karan New York Pressed Powder Perfume. It originally retailed for $75. It has a 24 karat matte gold finish in an unusual curved shape, resembling a snail to me, very heavy, with a label on the base. It was housed in a black silk velvet drawstring pouch with silk cords.  The pouch also has Donna Karan's label stating: "All Silk Imported From Italy Hand Made in USA". The compact has a hinged lid and holds perfumed pressed powder. The compact measures 1 7/8" long by 1 1/2" wide by 1 1/8" tall.




Donna Karan New York perfume pendant, originally retailed for $100.


Fate of the Fragrance:


After a few years, the fragrance turned out to be a flop and it was discontinued, today it remains hard to find and commands high prices when offered for sale.

However, one silver lining was to be found under that cloud, the Cashmere Mist line of fragrances. Donna Karan herself explains in her autobiography, "One day, two years later, I came across a beautiful frosted bottle with the name Cashmere Mist on it's label. Excuse me? I grabbed it, stormed into Jane's office, and screamed "What is this?"I may have thrown the f-word in there. "Stephan didn't tell you? We're making a fragrance of Cashmere Mist.""No my loving husband didn't tell me," I said, furious. But it's a good thing he didn't. Cashmere Mist remains our best selling fragrance."


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