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Deborah International

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In the 1980's, Omni was launched as a bargain designer impression fragrance by Deborah Richman and distributed under the brand Deborah International.

Other perfumes in the Deborah International line included her versions of popular fragrances of the day:
  • Gypsy/Georgi Girl (Giorgio)
  • Hemlock (Halston)
  • Omni (Opium)
  • Enamoured (Obsession)
  • Kleo (Chloe)
  • Leora (Lauren)
  • Olivia (Oscar de la Renta)
  • Adore Adore (Anais Anais)
  • Tamarind (Shalimar)
  • Forever Innocence (White Linen)
  • Satin & Lace/Satin Glass  (White Shoulders)
  • Immortal (Joy)
  • Gypsy Rose (Giorgio Red)
  • Wisdom (Knowing)
  • Everlasting (Eternity)
  • Winds (Wings)
  • Sahara (Safari)
  • Miz (Liz Claiborne)
  • Secret Potion (White Diamonds)
  • Abstractions (Realities)
  • Passages (Red Door)
Fragrances for Men:
  • Aegean (Aramis)
  • Player (Polo)
  • Hunter (Halston Z-14)
  • Prince (Giorgio for Men)
  • Jaguar/Jagged (Drakkar Noir)
  • Everlasting (Eternity for Men)
  • Magnet (Obsession for Men)
  • King of Hearts (Giorgio Red for Men)

She boasted to People Magazine that her products contained the same oils and essences as those of her competitors. “Everything I do is first class,” says Richman. “Estée Lauder doesn’t spend any more on her components than I do.” Richman turned to Quality King, a large distributor of drugstore products that agreed to invest $5 million in her venture. Then she hired one of the top perfume formulators in the world.


Breathless by Charbert c1933

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Breathless by Charbert was launched in 1933.



Fragrance Composition:


Since there are no official notes listed anywhere, I will take the opportunity to use my vintage perfume nip of this scent and will tell you what notes I detect. It would be classified as a floral oriental woody fragrance for women. Similar to Tabu, but lighter with top notes of citrus, followed by a sweetened orange blossom and spice heart, resting on a powdery, woodsy amber base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, citrus
  • Middle notes: orange blossom, spices
  • Base notes: vanilla, vetiver, tonka, patchouli, musk, amber, balsam, resins, benzoin, labdanum


Breathless was available in the following:

  • Parfum
  • Eau de Cologne
  • Bath Powder
  • Talc
  • "Mit Me" Bath Powder Mitt






Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1973.

Silver Alloy Marks and Trade Names

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In this guide I will outline the numerous silver alloy marks and trade names that have been used throughout the world on antiques and collectibles.

Many of these marks can confuse the buyer, dealer or collector if they aren't knowledgeable in the different trade names and alloys.

Please note that these markings and trade names are not for sterling silver. I have listed as many trade names and types of alloys as I can find.




A:

  •  Afghan Silver: another name for nickel silver.
  • African Silver: a mark that was found on some English silver plated items 1850-1900.
  • Alaska Metal: a trade name for a line of silverplated flatware that resembled sterling that was sold by Sears & Roebuck & Co from 1908-on.
  • Albu Silver: a British manufacturer of plated-brass novelties, who used this mark starting in the 1880s.
  • Alpaca or Alpacca, ALP, Alpacca Prima NS: other names for nickel silver, used as a trade names for Berndorf AG of Austria. It is now a generic term used by Germany, and Scandinavian Countries as well as Mexico.
  • Aluminum Silver: the trade name for a non-silver alloy, used by Daniel & Arter of Birmingham, England.
  • Argentium Argentine Plate:  nickel silver.
  • Argentum: nickel silver.
  • Austrian Silver: nickel silver.

B.
  • Bengal Silver: another trade name for a non-silver alloy, used by Daniel & Arter of Birmingham, England.
  • Brazil Silver and Solid Brazil Silver: these are two names that are used for nickel silver, also called German silver, which is a silvery- white alloy of copper, nickel and zinc. This alloy contains no silver at all.
  • Brazilian Silver: another trade name for a non-silver alloy used by Daniel & Arter of Birmingham, England.
  • Bristol Silver: a trade name for a non-silver alloy that looks remarkably like silver, made by the Bristol Mfg. Co. of Attleboro, Massachusetts from 1895-1915.

C.
  • Coin Silver: This is a generic collector's/dealer's term for objects that have been made of melted coins. There was never a governmental standard or legally required mark for coin silver. Please note that it is virtually impossible to find "coin silver" marked on objects on hollowware, jewelry or flatware made during the 1850s-1860s. You will however find this mark on reproductions. There was a time during the 1920s-1930s when some jewelry and other small items were regularly marked "coin silver" that made by Southwestern Native Americans and Mexicans.Some other marks are "coin", "pure coin silver", "standard", and sometimes you may find the word "dollar".  During the minting process, coins had been alloyed with a hardening agent added to help withstand circulation. The coins had a silver content of 900/1000. The sterling standard is 925/1000 and is softer. In the early 1800s, there was a lack of silver ore from the mines and in order to curb competition with American silversmiths, there was a refusal of foreign sources to sell bullion to America. The height of coin silver's popularity was the 1850s and 1860s. The decline of melting down silver coins started in the late 1860s, when newly discovered silver mines in Nevada were found and the US government started to require that foreign tariffs and duties were to be paid in coin or bullion. With this increase of silver, American silversmiths began to use the higher standard of sterling silver in making their wares.
  • Continental Nickel Silver:  nickel silver.

D.

E.

  • Empire Art Silver: a trade name for silver plated base metals used by the E & J Bass Company of New York, used during 1890s-1930.
  • England Silver:  nickel silver.
  • EPNS and EPBM: items marked with EPNS are made of Electro-Plated Nickel Silver. This was an inexpensive way to get the look of sterling silver, by electroplating a thin silver coating onto a nickel base. Sometimes the mark can be slightly confusing at first glance, as some companies tried to mimic English sterling hallmarks, look closer and you will most likely find your mark says EPNS. Items marked EPBM are made of Electro-Plated Britannia Metal which is electro-plated pewter or nickel silver.

F.


G.
  • German Silver: this is by far the most confusing mark to some people. This is the most common mark you will find for the silvery-white alloy made of copper, nickel and zinc. This alloy contains no silver at all, however, I generally see some sellers on ebay attempting to call this real silver or sterling when it isn't. German silver can be polished and will gleam just like sterling silver, I use Weiman's Silver Polishing Cream.
  • Gun Metal: alloy in the bronze family, generally used to make cannons and other industrial products. It is also loosely used to describe other dark-grey cast metals. 

H.

I.

J.
  • Japanese Silver: another trade name for a non-silver alloy used by Daniel & Arter of Birmingham, England.

K.

L.
  • Laxey Silver: another trade name for a non-silver alloy used by Daniel & Arter of Birmingham, England.

M.
  • Mexican Silver: this is a non-assayed mark, there is no guarantee of silver content. I believe that most items marked Mexican Silver are most likely nickel silver alloys.

N.
  • Nearsilver: a trade name for nickel silver, used by an unknown manufacturer.
  • Nevada Silver: a trade name for a non-silver alloy used by Daniel & Arter of Birmingham, England.
  • New Silver: nickel silver.
  • Nickel Silver: an alloy that resembles sterling, it is made up of copper, zinc, and nickel. It has no silver content.
  • Norwegian Silver: trade name for nickel silver used by WG&S.

O.
  • Oregon Silver: a mark found on some pieces of English silverplate around 1880s.

P.
  • Paktong, Pakfong, Baitung, Paitun: obsolete names for a Chinese metal alloy related to nickel silver.
  • Panama Silver: this mark is generally found on flatware that is made of nickel silver.
  • Pearl Silver: this mark is generally found on flatware that is made of nickel silver.
  • Potosi Silver:  trade name for nickel silver used by WG&S.
Q.

R.

S.
  • Siberian Silver: a mark that is found on some English silver plated copper pieces from the late 1800s.
  • Silvanir and Silverine: two separate trade names for non-silver alloyed items manufactured by the Nov-E-Line Mfg.  Co of New York from 1890-1910.
  • Silveroin: a trade name for a non-silver alloy used by the Bristol Mfg. Company of Attleboro, Massachusetts from 1895-1915.
  • Solid Yukon Silver Warranted: a trade name on some silver plated items manufactured by the Raymond Mfg. Co of Muncie, Indiana, no production is noted after 1920.
  • Sonora Silver: trade name for nickel silver by Walker & Hall, Sheffield, England.
  • Sterline: a trade name for a non-silver alloy used by James E. Blake Co of Attleboro, MA around 1902.
  • Sterlon: a trade name for silver alloys and plated wares used by Milton Schreiber of New York, first used in 1949.

T.
  • Tutenag: obsolete name for an Indian metal alloy related to nickel silver. It was also used to describe zinc commercially supplied from India.
  • Tyrol Silver: nickel silver.

U.
  • Utah Metal: a mark found on flatware of  non-silver alloy.

V.
  • Venetian Silver: trade name for nickel silver used by Deykin & Sons, Birmingham, England.

W.
  • Wolf Silver:  a mark found on flatware of non-silver alloy.

X.


Y.
  • Yukon Silver: a mark found on flatware of non-silver alloy
Z.

Feerie by Rigaud c1938

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Feerie by Rigaud: launched in 1938. Also labeled as Feerie Moderne.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral amber fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: citrus accord, neroli, lily of the valley
  • Middle notes: mixed spices, orris, violet, rose, jasmine
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar, musk and ambergris


The New Yorker, 1938:
"Rigaud: We couldn't resist the way they have put out Feerie Moderne, with a naughty, old-fashioned nude on the box — the kind our fathers got roguish about. Perfume is nice, too. A good, fresh cologne has an overtone of amber (Saks-Fifth)."


Bottle:


Feerie was contained in a beautiful clear glass disk shaped perfume bottle molded with concentric rings. The frosted glass disk shaped stylized floral stopper was molded with vertical ribbing radiating from the center. 

The bottle was housed in an elegant presentation case covered in gold fabric, the lid features an image of the Jean Gabriel Domergue painting “Nu Sur un Champ de Lys” under glass. Domergue assisted in designing the package.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued,date unknown. It was still being sold in 1949.

La Perla by La Perla c1987

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La Perla by La Perla: launched in 1987. The perfume was created by perfumers of IFF in 1987.



Fragrance Composition:


Originally classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh flowery top, followed by a rosy heart resting on a warm woody base.
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, green note, coriander, cardamom
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, carnation, honey, orris
  • Base notes: vetiver, cistus, amber, benzoin, civet, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood and musk


Bottle:


The bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand in 1987. It was manufactured by Luigi Bormioli  with plastic components supplied by AMS.


Fate of the Fragrance:


DCI, 1997:
"LPI, formerly called La Parfumerie Inc., has secured the exclusive distribution rights in the U.S. for the fragrances from the upscale lingerie company La Perla, as well as the Fendi fashion house. In a recent interview, DCI asked LPI's president, Francesco Borghese, about his plans for the Italian fragrance lines in the U.S. DCI: What lure, or cachet, does an Italian fragrance house present to consumers? BORGHESE: The popularity of Italian fragrance houses is on the rise. Look at fashion and accessories. Today, 85% of fashion and accessories imports in the uS are Italian, as compared to the 15% from France.  The only exception has been fragrances, because they have come from France for so long. However, there is more creativity in Italy than ever before in this market, and we will be seeing more and more Italian fragrances in the future. "





La Perla was reformulated at a later time into a dry floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: carnation, freesia, osmanthus and tangerine
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, coriander, pepper and cardamom
  • Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood and musk



Madame by Philippe Venet c1968

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Madame by Philippe Venet: launched in 1968.





Fragrance Composition:


It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: galbanum, bergamot
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, amber


Historia, 1968:
"VENET MADAME A mysterious fragrance, attractive and subtle made of moss, jasmine, rose, and woody notes, which will be an essential complement to jewelry and evening dresses for the sophisticated woman. PHILIPPE Perfume VENET."

Cue, 1971:
"Philippe Venet's Mademoiselle, daytime breezy, and Madame, an evening romantic, from $15."

House & Garden, 1972:
"MADAME by Philippe Venet — another very quiet, un- show-offy scent, new from France. But this one has an amusing hook in it — a feeling of a rhythmic heat you can almost hear. At the same time Venet presents Mademoiselle, fresh, less ..."




Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Parce Que! by Roberto Capucci c1963

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Parce Que! by Roberto Capucci: launched in 1963.




Fragrance Composition:


It is classified as a soft floral woody aldehyde fragrance for women. Parce Que! was launched in 1963. The fragrance has drawn comparisons to the infamous Chanel No. 5.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, lemon, sweet orange and ylang ylang
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, iris, and lily of the valley
  • Base notes: sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla, patchouli, amber, and musk


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sod in 1984.



Mai by Shiseido c1968

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Mai by Shiseido: launched in 1968.



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It starts with an aldehydic top, followed by an elegant spicy floral heart, layered over a sensual, powdery, feminine base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, peach, estragon
  • Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, clove, rose de mai, lilac, ylang ylang
  • Base notes: amber, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, opoponax, tonka 


Bottles:



Audace by Rochas c1936

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Audace by Rochas: launched in 1936. Pronounced "oh-doss'. The perfume was created by Marcel Rochas. The couturier was fond of saying that, "One should notice the scent of a woman before even seeing her."



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woodsy, leafy, chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: iris, jasmine, bergamot, violet
  • Middle notes: carnation and may rose
  • Base notes: galbanum, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, musk, amber, juniper and pine


Bottles:


Rochas started carrying perfumes around 1936, and sold exclusively at the fashions shows of Marcel Rochas. The original bottles were directly inspired by Rochas' shop located at 12 Avenue Matignon, a pretty blue and white salon where he did a thriving business. These perfumes were Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon and were housed in both square and rectangular white opaline glass bottles. These chic bottles were fitted with a matching opaline glass stopper with the initials MR molded into the glass. A blue paper label was wrapped around the middle of the bottle. This flacon was available in seven different sizes, one with atomizer.   However, at the start of the second World War, these perfumes were withdrawn from sale and are very rare to find today.


Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 39 - Page 461, 1936:
"MARCEL ROCHAS The perfumes and toiletries of Marcel Rochas have come to America and are distributed by Pierre Amouroux, Inc. The bottles and packages are extremely smart in white with a wide blue band, and white and red lettering."








Fate of the Fragrance:


The original 1936 version was discontinued due to the second World War.

The name was reused for a reformulated version and the perfume was released in 1971, in USA by 1972. It was the first new perfume to be introduced by Rochas in 11 years and a heavy advertising campaign was enacted. To commemorate the occasion, the facade of the headquarters Rochas in 33 rue François Ier, was given a temporary facelift by the sculptor Pierre Sabatier (1935-2003). Created on the occasion of the launch of the perfume "Audace" in 1972, this off-white polyvinyl structure evokes fragrances and was inspired by Charles Baudelaire's poem "Harmonie du soir".



For the reformulation's launch, Rochas commissioned designer Harry Algo to design a dress to match the personality of the perfume. Dubbed "The Audace Dress", reminiscent of Spain, richly feminine in chocolate brown velvet, the backless dress plunges to a deep-ruffled decolletage in front. Algo, a Parisian designer, studied as a boy with Marcel Rochas. By the 1970s, Algo had his own exclusive couture house.

At the gourmet luncheon given for the perfume's introduction at the Cote Basque in New York, guests were treated to a delightful experience. Each item on the menu contained a floral essence including chrysanthemums, rose petals and orchids.

The news traveled on the wind and Alexandre, the celebrated Parisian coiffeur, predicted Audace would be in the rare top echelon of scents. It was said that the hairdresser was known to have a sensitive "nose" much like a perfumer's and could instantly place a fragrance. Parfums Rochas asked him to create a hairstyle in honor of the Audace perfume. He created seven different designs but one was ultimately chosen, his favorite, number seven, that could be created either with false pieces or with shoulder length hair.


The newer version of Audace was discontinued by 1978. Rochas called it a "cool spiced floral, with a touch of green added, warmed and heightened by deep notes of sandalwood and amber musk, designed to adapt to individual skin chemistry."
  • Top notes: aldehydes, Florentine iris, white jasmine, bergamot, violet
  • Middle notes: jonquil, spices, wild thyme, honeysuckle, tuberose, carnation and Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: myrrh, galbanum, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, musk, amber, juniper and pine

This new version was available in the following:
  • 1/5 oz Parfum Purse Spray
  • 1/4 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum Spray
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 3 oz Parfum
  • 0.75 oz Parfum de Toilette Spray
  • 2 oz Parfum de Toilette Spray
  • 4 oz Parfum de Toilette Spray 
  • 2 oz Parfum de Toilette Splash
  • 4 oz Parfum de Toilette Splash
  • 7.5 oz Parfum de Toilette Splash

The bottle was made up of a smoothly shaped rectangle with softly rounded shoulders in golden amber tones. Double tiered base of polished opaque brown plexiglass holds it. Top has a panel face of brushed, satin-finished rose aluminum. Two spheres, , golden inner one circled by a dome of clear, coppery plexiglass, top it.

Uninhibited by Cher c1988

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"Uninhibited. Bottled, but not contained."

In 1988 Cher decided to introduce her own line of perfume. Called “Uninhibited,” a name that seemed quite appropriate for Cher, the line debuted with much fanfare that year. Distributed by Parfums Stern in association with Avon.




The Inspiration:


In January of that year, the chairman for Parfums Stern, Michael Stern saw the photo of Cher on the cover of Los Angeles magazine and he wondered why no one had gotten her name on a product. On Oscar night in 1988, Cher picked up the award for best actress for her role in Moonstruck. After approaching Cher with the idea of a fragrance, she enthusiastically agreed and signed the deal to go into the perfume business with Parfums Stern that same day. Cher was as serious about her fragrance as she was when making movies, as she exclaimed "It's something I really believe in."



The Fragrance:


 For the scent, she gave perfumers her own combination of fragrances and had final approval for the perfume. The scent was inspired by two fragrances that Cher wore together: Charles of the Ritz and Vanilla by Jean Laporte, a which she was mixing for her own use for 10 years. When asked if she knew what she was doing at first, Cher said that she "now knows a lot about it. I've always been interested in cosmetics and mixed my own perfume." Perfume creation is a lot of trial and error. The perfumers helped her to decide on which ingredients she wanted in the perfume, she chose her favorites: gardenia, vanilla and spice. She said "the chemists bring the stuff on a cotton ball and run it under your nose. they said I had a great nose."

The final combination for Uninhibited was created by Francis Bocris. Before it was released to the public, during the summer over a European vacation, Cher tried out Uninhibited on her friends and family during the testing phase and stated that her boyfriend Rob Camilletti "actually, finally liked it."

Cher says that when she and young actor boyfriend, Rob Camilletti were "first, first together, I sprayed my perfume inside his leather jacket" whenever she had to leave on a trip back to Los Angeles. He said "I can't stop thinking about you, I even smell you". "It's a wicked trick, but it worked," said Cher coyly.


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. Its character enhanced by romantic Casablanca Lilies- Cher's favorite flower.
  • Top notes: rum absolute, peony, dried fruits, bergamot, orange oil, aldehydes, Casablanca lily
  • Middle notes: Tahitian orchid, honeysuckle, lilac, carnation, tuberose, carnation, Egyptian jasmine, geranium, ylang ylang, tobacco, heliotrope, rose
  • Base notes: musk, vetiver, sandalwood, virginia cedar, vanilla




The Bottle:

For the show stopping bottle, she chose an earring she had worn in “The Witches of Eastwick” for the cap design of the stopper/cap. The bottle is of smoky crystal, the stopper is crescent moon shaped, studded with platinum and crowned with a frosted-crystal disk. The bottle's cartouche design was inspired, she said, by a small marcasite sarcophagus she received as a gift. Even the silver cord around the neck of the bottle is embellished with dangling beads, reminiscent of the jewelry she wears. The front of the bottle featured Cher’s name written in script across a metallic silver foil label.

Cher stated that "it's a charismatic bottle, maybe nostalgic too. You know the old days, - when you really felt life was romantic."




A very rare bottle to find is the preview flacon.

The included card states:
"It's a great thrill to me to share this preview of my new fragrance with you. It's been a long trip to this point but we made it. Now, you've noticed that this bottle of UNINHIBITED is coming to you in a lab sample container. That's because we were determined that you receive it at this time...to make you the first in the country to preview it. And actually, I think there's something kind of special and exclusive about receiving the fragrance like this--after all, the real bottle will be around for a long time and how many people will be able to say they had it before anyone else did? And it's the fragrance that really matters, right?" 




Uninhibited was a full line that included the following products (with their original retail prices):

  • 1.7 oz Parfum - $300
  • 1 oz Parfum - $175 
  • ¼ oz Parfum - $65
  • 3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray - $45
  • 1.5 oz Eau de Toilette Spray - $30
  • 3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash - $42.50
  • ⅓ oz Eau de Toilette Splash mini
  • 7 oz Body Lotion - $30
  • 1.5 oz Body Lotion (in tube)
  • 7 oz Body Bath - $25
  • 1.5 oz Body Bath (in tube)
  • 5 oz Body Powder - $30
  • 6 oz Powdered Foam Bath - $30
  • 7 oz After Bath Skin Sensation - $18.50
  • Perfume Pen - $18.50

The Perfume Pen was a sleek, matte silver perfume applicator that came inside of a black pouch, and could easily fit inside your purse.

The Debut:




1988 kicked off with a promotional blitz including personal appearances at high end department stores to hawk her perfume. The tour also included about one million dollars worth of costumes and headpieces designed by Bob Mackie exclusively for Cher over the years. These ensembles were set up on display at the fragrance departments at the stores. The fragrance line was officially launched on August 10, 1988 in New York City at Trump Towers. For her grand entrance and picture taking session, she was clad in a glittery Cleopatra style costume, which was rather revealing from the rear. She told Bob Mackie that “she wanted something Egyptian.” The result was a sheer beaded gown, matching shawl, see through harem pants and a jewel encrusted wig.

Fans crammed the stores until the crowds spilled out onto the streets in hopes of catching a glimpse of the star. At Macy's in New York, over 10,000 women showed up to meet the singer. “This is something new to me as a business. Uninhibited means something different to every one of us...It can suit every woman’s idea of fantasy. My perfume is not me wanting women to emulate me, it's me having the privilege of saying this is what think women might want. Over the years everyone has remarked how great I smell. I mean, even David Letterman said "God, you smell good."That's a great compliment,” Cher told reporters at the Plaza Hotel, while wearing a black, skin-tight off the shoulder mini dress by Bob Mackie, adorned with a peek a boo lace hem and single lace sleeve. Although her idea of fantasy is "running naked through the park." Michael Stern, president of Parfums Stern, said the fragrance will be available about Nov. 1.

 Studio 54 threw a lavish star studded Halloween party at the newly refurbished Century Paramount Hotel in New York near the theater district to help celebrate the debut of her perfume. The party was held in the old Billy Rose Diamond Horseshoe nightclub and it’s theme was astrology. Witches garbed in white handed white wigs and nose/mustache/glasses disguises to guests. Young women dressed in merry widow corsets and other underwear lined the entrance. Guests were sent invitations inside plastic enclosed globes, and she asked her guests to wear costumes or something "uninhibited black tie."

Cher again dressed up in her Bob Mackie Egyptian goddess ensemble to promote the perfume. One attendee at the party claimed that Cher's costume was a "combination of gaudiness and taste, as she is now all things to all people." Cher headed straight for a fortuneteller's tent and had her palm read by a psychic all the while watched over by her companion/bodyguard dressed in a long red dress. After taking promotional photos in the Cleopatra get up with the press, she changed into a slinky, black shirred jersey and lace spandex minidress by Giorgio di Sant'Angelo.

 The Halloween affair was attended by 500 of her closest friends including Sylvester Stallone (with Viennese model Kim Andrea), Eric Stoltz, Christopher Reeve, Debra Winger, Faye Dunaway, Francis Ford Coppola, Debbie Harry, Lorne Michaels, Steve Rubell, Ian Schrager, Liza Minnelli (escorted by designer Halston), Liz Smith, Barbara Walters, Harry Jay Katz (and wife Andrea), and Gloria Steinem amongst other luminaries. Jay Katz claimed Cher was "very loving towards" beau Rob Camilletti during the party, who brought his parents to the fete. Michael Stern dressed as Louis XIV predicted that the sales of the perfume line would be "big! Really big. People  will buy because of Cher."


At an Atlanta department store, she addressed the crowd saying, “This is really cool that you guys took off work to come and see me.” A promoter urged the fans to be uninhibited in their questions during a brief question and answer session, and many were. Cher was asked, among other things, the number and location of her tattoos. “ I guess it’s 5 ½,” she said, “one on my left foot, one on my right shoulder, one on my arm and the other two, only a very few people have seen them,” she replied coyly.

Speaking at another department store to promote her perfume, she was asked if she herself was uninhibited, Cher said, “I am not really gutsy as a person really. I think we should try to do things we are afraid of. Like, I couldn’t even dial the phone when I was a kid, I was so shy. My mother used to say, “Go head, Cher. Dial. They can’t see you.”

“But when I think of “uninhibited,” Cher said, “I think of running through the park naked or something but that’s like the kind of thing I couldn’t do."

She gave the media a cool reception at another store promotion, on account of an incident in which her boyfriend Rob Camilletti was arrested after a tabloid photographer claimed he tried to intentionally run him over with Cher's Ferrari. She was not happy about the bad publicity as it probably didn't help her perfume's ad campaign, as she made her feelings known to the hovering reporters around her, "The press is like humidity, it's there, you live with it." Gossip rags annoyed her with their vicious rumors and innuendos, and she said that "a lynching is the only gathering I'd invite them to." But she went right back to the task of promoting her perfume in the next breath, she said she felt as strongly about the fragrance as she did her movie role in Moonstruck and how the venture was something she "really believed in" so as a compromise with the press, she decided to talk a little about her perfume and her personal life, "but it's a rough tradeoff" she said.

Macy's in San Francisco had to ask its agency to stop advertising the new perfume because they couldn't keep it in stock. Four thousand people jammed the store on the last leg of the perfume's promotional tour, shouting "We Want Cher!" as the singer was late. Wearing her black di Sant'Angelo dress and a black leather jacket, she was most likely exhausted from travel and appearances, as she declined requests to sign autographs. However, she made one exception, and agreed to sign the shoulder of a man who wore a tattoo depicting her own leg, complete with high heel and her famous rose tattoo. One woman asked Cher "where are the most exciting places to put perfume?" for maximum effect, and the star quipped with annoyance, "I don't know, just don't put it on where it burns."On her way out of the mobbed store, she was boldly quoted as saying "In the best of all possible worlds, this really sucks."

Though she told a reporter that "I don't know that a perfume's function is necessarily to drag you to the bedroom. But it's the first step to have a man look at you and say "You smell really good."

She described her perfume as both "wild and innocent"and claimed she always wore perfume, even to the gym. She didn't regard perfume as a luxury, "when I get up in the morning I spray it all over myself in a figure eight design. Over the years everyone has remarked how great I smell."

The fragrance advertisements showed a slightly restrained Cher, in more modestly designed clothing, reflecting a different side of the star and ultimately women in general. At an appearance, she explained "I'm a different person with my kids, my boyfriend, in the gym..when I wake up." She then disclosed that she does indeed have wardrobe standards, despite some of the revealing outfits she has been known to wear, saying "I'm not under the illusion that I'm a great dresser. I don't believe we should dress to impress."

She urged her fans to be themselves and reveal their own personalities, "I don't want to be a role model. Life is not a dress rehearsal. This is it." She didn't want to name her perfume, Cher, because she "wanted a fragrance that's your perfume - something that's you. I don't want you to be a clone of me."

A stylish fragrance tester display helped reinforce the product's launch. The display was engineered and manufactured by Trans World Marketing (East Rutherford, NJ) based on a concept provided by Parfums Stern, combined mirrored and frosted Plexiglass, a laser cut logo and hot stamping to showcase the product’s black and silver packaging. Video monitors were placed around the fragrance departments running loops of Cher's perfume commercial and for a live simulcast for the waiting crowds to conveniently watch when Cher would finally appear at the store.

A Cher memorabilia collector, Javier Ozuna, said that "even the perfume packaging reminds me of her - it's beautiful. I bought the $30 bottle of cologne, I can't afford the $300 perfume. Only her friends will buy that."



The Success:

Uninhibited garnered more than $15 million in sales during 1988.


By 1989, the success of Uninhibited spawned a copycat fragrance, Untamed made by Deborah International, a company that produced other designer imposter fragrances in the late 1980s such as Eternity by Calvin Klein (Everlasting), Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld (Kleo), Oscar by Oscar de la Renta (Olivia), Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly Hills (Gypsy), Giorgio Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills (Gypsy Rose), Knowing by Estee Lauder (Wisdom), Liz Claiborne by Liz Claiborne (Miz), LouLou by Cacharel (For You), Obsession by Calvin Klein (Enamored), Halston by Halston (Hemlock), Opium by Yves Saint Laurent (Omni),  and Lauren by Ralph Lauren (Leora).


The Aftermath:


Cher's Uninhibited perfume dropped from an impressive $15-million in sales in 1988 down to $10-million the very next year, and it was soon for sale (this time, by the company who made it ).

A series of disagreements about marketing resulting in poor sales by 1990 and the fragrance was pulled off the market.  Parfums Stern, distributor of Cher's fragrance, blamed the flop on marketing decisions. Cher wanted Uninhibited to be brought out as an expensive “prestige fragrance,” while Stern felt her felt her image had a broader appeal and that the scent should therefore be moderately priced.

Annette Green, executive director of the Fragrance Foundation explained in 1992 that Uninhibited bombed because of its image didn't have any association with the rebellious, leather clad singer, "the packaging was Art Deco, Cher's image is hardly Art Deco."  In 1994, Ms. Green also stated that "as it turns out, people didn't necessarily want to smell like Cher. They do want to smell like Elizabeth Taylor." by 1996, it was an industry joke, however many of its loyal fans still covet the long forgotten scent. I myself, prefer it over Chanel No. 5.




Depose and Deponiert: and other French and German marks

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This guide with help you translate some of the most common words that are found or may be found on French or German antiques and vintage collectibles.

Occasionally in the world of antiques, you may come across a mark, DEP, which could mean either Depose or Deponiert. This mark is commonly found on German or French bisque dolls, celluloid,  porcelain, jewelry, glass or metal goods. Dep stands for the German word Deponiert which means registered, or copyright. Dep is also a shortened form of Depose which is French for registered.

Without knowing a manufacturer or country of origin, it is safe to say that if your item is marked DEP, it is most likely of French or German manufacture.

Here is a short list of other words related to patents or other markings found on German antiques:

  • Angestrichen mit der Hand: handpainted
  • Besteuern Sie Steuer: excise tax


Sometimes DEP is accompanied by GES to form the following mark DEP/GES, the GES is an abbreviated form of the word Geschutz, if you see this mark, your piece is of German origin. Sometimes people think that Geschutz is a manufacturer, in reality it only means "protected against copying" in German.
  • DRGM, a German patent mark that stands for Deutsches Reich Geschmacksmuste
  • DRP is German for Deutsches Reich Patent
  • Fabrikmarke: factory mark
  • Frankreich: France
  • Gegr. : an abbreviated form of the word gegrundet which means established/founded
  • Gebruder: brothers
  • Ges. Gesch. : abbreviated form of Gesetzlich Geschutzt: legally protected, patented, copyrighted
  • Ges. Mbh: company or corporation
  • Glashuttenwerk: glassworks factory
  • Glassmanufaktur: glassworks factory
  • Hochfeine: fine quality/high quality
  • Juwelier: jeweler
  • Kristall: crystal
  • Kunststoff: plastic
  • Kupfer: copper
  • Musterschutz: copyright
  • Papierstoff: papier mache
  • Porzellanfabrik: porcelain factory, this mark is sometimes on the back of dinnerware.
  • Abteilung: department
  • Schutzmarke: trade mark
  • Silber: silver
  • Steingurfabrik: stoneware factory
  • Tschechoslowake: Czechoslovakia
  • Verboten: prohibited
  • Waschbar: washable
  • Werkstatte: workshop/studio
  • West Germany: used from 1948-1991 (useful in dating vintage costume jewelry)
  • Zelluloid: celluloid
  • Zettel: label
  • Zinn: tin/pewter
  • Zoll Abteilung: customs department



Here is a short list of other words related to patents found on French antiques:

  • Alliage: alloy
  • Antiquité: antique
  • Argent: silver
  • Atelier: studio
  • Brevete: this word is commonly found on French items and some people mistake it fo a manufacturers marking, but it simply means patented.
  • Bté. SGDG: means "patented." It is shortened from the phrase Breveté Sans Garantie du Gouvernement  which means "Patented without State Guarantee."
  • Cie./Compagnie: company
  • Cristallerie: glass factory
  • Cuivre: copper
  • Cuivre jaune: brass
  • Decore a la main: hand decorated
  • Decore par: decorated by
  • Département de douanes: customs department
  • Depose: registered
  • Drapier: clothier
  • Email: enamel/paint
  • Etain: tin
  • Et Fils: and Son
  • Etats Unis: United States
  • Exciser l'impôt: excise tax
  • Exportation: export
  • Fabrique Par: manufactured by
  • Grand Magasin: department store
  • Impôt: tax
  • Joaillier: jeweler
  • le Celluloïd: celluloid
  • le Plastique: plastic
  • Marque déposée: trademark
  • Marque de Fabrique: this word means trade mark.
  • Millésime: vintage
  • Métal: metal
  • Modele Depose: Registered Design
  • Or: gold
  • Orfevre: silversmith
  • Peint à la Main: hand painted
  • Porcelaine Fabrique: porcelain factory, sometimes found on the back of dinnerware.
  • Ste. : an abbreviation for Societe
  • Tcheqoslovaquie: Czechslovakia
  • Vendeur: seller
  • Verrier: glassworker
  • Verrerie: glass works factory

Niki de Saint Phalle c1982

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"dangerous but worth the risk..."

Niki de Saint Phalle was launched in 1982 in association with Jacqueline Cochran, Inc..




For the launch party, Jacqueline Cochran had a street blocked off and live snakes when she introduced the Niki de Saint Phalle fragrance in New York. It all began with closing off East 32nd for a street fair that even included a performance by an acapella group called The Dream, finished with a party at La Coupole, hosted by Andy Warhol.

When she decided to introduce the fragrance at Bullock's Beverly Center, it was a bit more toned down, but nevertheless a swanky event. Over a gazebo in Bullock's home furnishings department, florist Tom Pearce invoked the Garden of Eden by draping greenery and orchid sprays. Inside were delectable treats, the usual pate and cheese trays but also, cookies cut into the shape of the famous Nana balloons created by Niki. Enjoying the background music of piano and strings by Ron Rubin, the guests enjoyed hors d'oeuvres by Pennington and cocktails before a lavish dinner at L'Orangerie, hosted  by Bullock's President Franklin Simon, Lyn Kleinholz and the Music Center's Michael Newton. 

Guest Carlo Bilotti, explained how the fragrance came into fruition, "I knew her (Niki's) work and I asked her if she would be interested in designing a bottle on commission. Later I realized her name was well known." From 1970 to 1987, he developed and managed Jacqueline Cochran, Inc., which marketed other top-of-the-line cosmetic and fragrances such as Nina Ricci, Carven and Pierre Cardin. In 1973, he was named president of the company. Bilotti owned several of Niki's works of art and was a fan of her Nanas sculptures. He realized that a perfume by the avant garde artist would startle, stimulate imagination, invite controversy, admiration and attract a large audience. She initially declined, she worried about compromising her reputation as a serious artist. Only when she was guaranteed total control of the product did she agree to the idea. "It had to be as good as a work of art," said Saint Phalle.

For the party, Niki wore a fanciful turban headdress with intertwined snakes of gold lame and silk, and a blue panne velvet dress as an homage to the perfume flacon. The gown and the headdress were both made by Marc Bohan of Dior and it featured appliques of the same colors on the bottle's mini snake sculpture. The ensemble was accompanied by bright red stockings and red flats. Later for the dinner, she changed into something more "comfortable".

She is devoting a large percentage of the perfume's profits to completing a large garden on land in Sicily given to her by her friends. The sculpture garden will contain 22 large Tarot cards. The garden will cost a great deal of money. ''So I decided to be my own patron,'' she explained. ''If the perfume succeeds, I can finance the garden." But when she was asked where was located, she mischievously replied, ''I'm not telling where; it's a secret.''  She had mentioned that an astrologer had once told her she would create the crowning masterpiece of her life in Italy. "The perfume industry has allowed me to become self-sufficient," says Saint Phalle, saying that the money she gets from selling the perfume bearing her name has allowed her to realize "the dream of a lifetime" in devoting herself to a sculpture that she says is revolutionary and represents a garden. Using part of her funds from the sale of her fragrance, Niki de Saint Phalle worked on the Tarot Garden for 20 years. It opened to the public in 1998. 



Fragrance Composition:


''I went out and bought a lot of perfumes,'' Miss Saint Phalle said in an interview with the New York Times. ''I mixed them together. I wanted something seductive, rather Oriental and with a strange quality about it. Something that would fit the bottle.''"A perfume that makes you feel both seductive and optimistic is right for you, and for the busy career woman, it must be a lasting fragrance," said Saint Phalle.

Saint Phalle explains that "I wanted something that represented what I feel when I put on perfume. I wanted it to express the fantasies and eroticism which is in my life and work. Now I share it with you. The ingredients are a mixture of fantastic flowers...a bit of sun...the amusement of the serpents...the mystique of the moon and stars, and a dash of love. A bottle of perfume is a dream, a hope."


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: marigold, artemisia, mint, green notes, peach and bergamot
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, tuberose, carnation, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, cedar and rose
  • Base notes: cedar, vetiver, patchouli, leather, sandalwood, amber, musk and oakmoss


 



Bottles:

The bottle is made up of rich, cobalt blue glass, the artist's favorite as it represents joy. A first edition perfume sculpture features two entwined snakes, one gold and one covered in colorful stripes and dots.

 She said the perfume and its bottle were a "challenge" - to prove that commercial products could be of quality. And then there was the financial aspect of becoming involved with a potentially best-selling perfume. She added, "Today there are no more patrons (for artists, and if it is successful, I hope it will pave the way for people to ask artists to do more (commercial) things. "

But why snakes? Saint Phalle explains, "There were several reasons for choosing snakes. I work with themes and I had been using snakes in my sculpture because I find them very erotic. They are one of the oldest symbols in the world, treacherous, mysterious, wise. The image of serpents amusing themselves at love upon the bottle is the most sophisticated representation to date of the age-old fascination of man with the serpent- a new portrayal of our subconscious desires. That is what I am trying to convey. Also Carlo Bilotti wanted me to do something new. He was aware that many people perfume business imitate what has been done before and he approached me in the first place because he owns some works of mine and he suddenly though, why not get an artist instead of a designer to do the bottle." She says she came upon the color combination for the snakes because it seemed like a good idea and the way they are sensuously entangled, "shows that they seem to be enjoying themselves."

The idea of snakes seemed to make sense, even biblically. A New York psychiatrist Dr. John Schimel said that "This snake was the original temptor who introduced Eve to knowledge of sex and sexuality. She and Adam were introduced to forbidden pleasures, which are seductive. And aren't perfumes often called 'forbidden' this and that?"

It took her two years to perfect her final design for the flacon. Her first idea she said "I was going to do the snakes on a black base, but then I saw a beautiful old Guerlain bottle of cobalt blue and I knew that was the color I wanted."

When she submitted her bottle design to the Jacqueline Cochran company, ''They freaked out at the snakes,'' she said. ''They're a pretty conservative outfit.'' Carlo Bilotti said that "I thought snakes would turn women off, but Niki insisted on them, so we did some market research in several cities with women's focus groups, and we found that they were extremely receptive to the idea."

The company relented and her designs got approval and also veto rights on the fragrance itself. ''The snakes are the opposite of the way they are in nature where the male gets all the color,'' claimed Niki. ''The gold one is the male. The female is in glorious color, '' she added.

The Jacqueline Cochran company wanted the Niki de Saint Phalle line to be part of the prestige market to be sold only in top of the line department stores, so they priced it about 20% higher than it's L'Air du Temps line which had parfum sold in Lalique crystal flacons.

"I feel that I had the chance to offer to those who can not afford the purchase of one of my works exhibited in art galleries, to get their hands on a small sculpture of me," said Saint Phalle while she was on a promotional tour in Canada.


Performing Arts, 1982:
"Cochran is introducing a Woman's fragrance by French sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle, which will — we are told — fuse art and  smell into one medium. Saint Phalle, an artist internationally known for her "Nanas," enormous sculptures of grossly exaggerated and bulbous female forms, designed the packaging and containers to reflect the erotic atmosphere of her works of art. 
Two intertwining, three dimensional snakes stand atop a square blue glass bottle with a gold cap. The male serpent is electroplated in gold, and the female serpent is hand-painted in five colors. the motif is repeated in bas-relief on the eau de toilette containers and on a gold plated perfume purse spray. 
Serpents, says Saint Phalle, represent eroticism, wisdom, healing, and temptation. The perfume itself follows these themes, with the addition of being sultry and mysteriously oriental. Saint Phalle plans to use her proceeds from the perfume to fund a huge sculpture garden - featuring 22 giant tarot cards  - in Sicily.  
The perfume will be launched in September at Bullocks Wilshire in Los Angeles and I. Magnin's in San Francisco. It is an expensive fragrance: about $160 per ouncce, or $40 for the two-ounce eau de toilette spray."





Snake Parfum flacons:
  • 1/4 oz Parfum stands almost 3" tall.
  • 1/2 oz Parfum stands 3.5" tall.
  • 1 oz Parfum stands 4.5" tall.
  • Large Factice (dummy bottle) stands 14" tall.


Eau de Toilette Round Splash Bottles:
  • 5ml mini  stands 2" tall
  • 1 oz stands 3" tall
  • 2 oz stands 3-4/8" tall
  • 4 oz stands 4.5" tall

Ancillary Products:


The Eau de Parfum and French milled soap were introduced in 1983.

For the holiday season of 1983, a limited edition porcelain egg was offered which held 5 oz of her perfumed powder. An enameled blue serpent, her packaging theme, winds around the egg. This presentation was known as "La Poudre D'Or" and is quite rare to find today. This limited edition was only made in 1000 examples.



By 1984, eau de cologne and body lotion were available.

A fun gift with purchase was a limited edition bangle bracelet electroplated in 14kt gold and hand painted enamel with the artist's signature serpent motif. This was available along with a mini perfume for $45 in 1984. the bracelet was called "Dance of the Snakes."



In 1984, another limited edition was released for the holiday season, La Fantasie de Soie", a silken jacquard scarf available with a 1.6 oz Eau de Toilette. A second limited edition for the season was the "Delices de la Bain", a cobalt blue and gold lacquered two drawer jewel chest containing a bath kimono, one ounce each of body lotion, bath oil and gold flecked powder, a bar of egg shaped scent soap, and 1.3 oz Eau de Toilette. Thirdly, the limited edition porcelain Serpent powder dish from the previous season was also available.


By 1985, the line had expanded to include bath oil, talc, body lotion, body cream, and bath & shower gel.


Fate of the Fragrance:

In one week, Bloomingdales in New York sold over $20,000 worth of the fragrance. Bullock's in Los Angeles reported that pre-launch sales had exceeded the record set by two of its best selling perfumes. Marshall Field in Chicago also claimed that sales were extremely brisk. 

Even sales on the European continent were optimistic. Marketing magazine gave us a glimpse of the future: "Niki is the icing on the cake for us,' said Janice White, marketing manager for the fine fragrance division. "We've targeted conservatively for the first year, around £100,000 at retail, because the prices are so high,' she said. The brand will stay exclusively in Harrods for the first six months, then spread to to selected shops. Niki de Saint Phalle will oust Joy from its reputed position as the world's most expensive fragrance." 

American Cyanamid hadn't done well with all its fragrances. Earlier in 1987, it sold its slow-growth Jacqueline Cochran division (L'Air du Temps, La Prairie line cosmetics, Grey Flannel men's fragrance and Niki de Saint Phalle perfume) to the French company Sanofi. So if your bottle is marked under the Jacqueline Cochran brand, you can be assured it dates to before 1987. By 1991, the Niki line was owned by Parfumhaus Gottschalk GMBH (Germany).

In May 1996, French Fragrances Inc (FFI) this was a division of Alfin, Fragrances Inc., completed the acquisition of certain assets of Fragrance Marketing Group, Inc. ("FMG"), including contract rights under certain license and exclusive distribution agreements in the United States for the Ombre Rose, Lapidus, Faconnable, Balenciaga, Bogart, Chevignon and Niki de Saint Phalle fragrance brands.  In 2000, FFI acquire Elizabeth Arden (including Elizabeth Taylor and ex-Evyan scent, White Shoulders) from Unilever, and they change the company name to Elizabeth Arden inc, the next year.   

Other boxes are marked "PP Produits de Prestiges, SA" (Prestige Products, Ltd.) of  Courgevaux, Switzerland. These are import, export and wholesale distributors who are licensed to distribute the fragrance in various countries. I believe that the Prestige Products, Ltd. was used to distribute the perfume in the UK. In 1991, Pacific Concord became the sole distributor of cosmetic products under Niki De Saint Phalle to be sold in China.

I also see some boxes marked ABC (Advanced Beauty Care, Inc) of Neuchatel, Switzerland, I found that they retrademarked the Niki de Saint Phalle name in 2005, but have been selling them since the early 1990s. In 1990, the "Zodiac Collection" line was launched. This was used with the "Eau Defendue" (Forbidden Water) line and sold under the ABC brand. The Eau Defendue is simply an Eau de Toilette. It is reported to be a limited edition showing the 12 zodiac signs plus three shelter signs such as cat, bird & horse according to the Niki de Saint Phalle imaginarium. "A perfume of seduction which touches the depths of your innermost sensuality. Unabashedly feminine, it blends with all 12 signs of the zodiac."


In 2007, it seems the Niki line was still owned by both Alfin Fragrances, Inc and Major/Advance International (this is ABC Advanced Beauty Care, Inc).

Colgate Perfumes

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Colgate & Co. was located at 55 John Street New York. Established 1806. Richard M. Colgate, Gilbert Colgate, Sidney M. Colgate, Austen Colgate.

Key Dates:

1806:
Company is founded by William Colgate in New York to make starch, soap, and candles.
1857:
After founder's death, company becomes known as Colgate & Company.
1873:
Toothpaste is first marketed.
1896:
Collapsible tubes for toothpaste are introduced.
1898:
B.J. Johnson Soap Company (later renamed Palmolive Company) introduces Palmolive soap.
1910:
Colgate moves from original location to Jersey City, New Jersey.
1926:
Palmolive merges with Peet Brothers, creating Palmolive-Peet Company.
1928:
Colgate and Palmolive-Peet merge, forming Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.
1947:
Fab detergent and Ajax cleanser are introduced.
1953:
Company changes its name to Colgate-Palmolive Company.
1956:
Corporate headquarters shifts back to New York.
1966:
Palmolive dishwashing liquid is introduced.
1967:
Sales top $1 billion.
1968:
Colgate toothpaste is reformulated with fluoride; Ultra Brite is introduced.
1976:
Hill's Pet Products is purchased.
1987:
The Softsoap brand of liquid soap is acquired.
1992:
The Mennen Company is acquired; Total toothpaste is introduced overseas.
1995:
Latin American firm Kolynos Oral Care is acquired; Colgate-Palmolive undergoes major restructuring.
1997:
Total toothpaste is launched in the United States; Colgate takes lead in domestic toothpaste market.
2004:
Company acquires European oral care firm GABA Holding AG; major restructuring is launched.



Colgate Company of Jersey City, NJ from 1879 to 1959.

Colgate & Company had been a pioneer in establishing international operations, creating a Canadian subsidiary in 1913 and one in France in 1920. In the early 1920s the firm expanded into Australia, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Mexico. Colgate or its successor firm next created subsidiaries in the Philippines, Brazil, Argentina, and South Africa in the late 1920s. In 1937 the company moved into India and by the end of the 1940s had operations in most of South America. By 1939 Colgate-Palmolive-Peet's sales hit $100 million.








The Colgate's Soap and Perfumery Works, later Colgate-Palmolive, was founded in 1806 by William Colgate. Colgate, an English immigrant, set up a starch, soap and candle business on Dutch Street in New York City. Frances Smith was made a partner in the following year and the firm became Smith and Colgate. William Colgate bought out his partner in 1813, the name was then changed to William Colgate & Co.The company moved from New York to NJ and the factory was completed in 1847.

The name Colgate & Company was first adopted in 1857, after the death of William Colgate. Colgate & Company began getting into fragrance and calling themselves perfumers in 1866. In 1866, the company introduced perfumed soap and began the manufacture of perfumes and essences. Six years later Cashmere Bouquet, the first milled perfumed toilet soap, was registered as a trademark. Colgate & Company produced its first toothpaste, an aromatic dental cream sold in jars.

Then, in 1896, the Colgate company made toothpaste much more convenient to use by introducing the first collapsible toothpaste tube, one similar to those in use today. Meanwhile in Milwaukee, the B.J Johnson Soap Company, founded in 1864, was about to change its destiny. In 1898, the company introduced Palmolive Soap, a product that was so successful it prompted B.L. Johnson to change its name to the Palmolive Company in 1916.

By its 100th anniversary, Colgate & Company, was manufacturing dental care products, laundry soaps, 160 different kinds of toilet soap and 625 varieties of perfume. The US Palmolive Company was expanding too. In 1926, it merged with the soap manufacturers Peet Brothers in Kansas City to form Palmolive-Peet Company. Two years later, this company merged with Colgate & Company and the new entity was known as the Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.

By 1872, Colgate was trademarking its fragrances and using bottles which bore a Colgate trademark symbol.

Perfumers:

William  P. Ungerer served as Colgate's chemist perfumer until 1893, when he left to establish his own company, manufacturing and supplying essential oils, known as Ungerer & Co.

 He was one of the oldest experts in perfumery in America and had been the Dean of American Perfumery. Mr Ungerer was born in Basle, Switzerland March 30, 1833, and in his early youth showed a taste for the perfumery business, but his inclinations did not meet with the approval of his father, and on this account, he left home and went to Paris, where he took up the study of perfumery and pharmacy at La Pharmacie Centrale de France. Later, he went to the south of France, and with the opportunities at hand, in that section, soon developed some of his original ideas on the manufacture of perfumery, which obtained for him, a position as assistant perfumer in Paris with the firm of Pinaud. On the death of Ed Pinaud, he became chief perfumer. Later, Mr. Ungerer was appointed private perfumer to the Emperor of Austria, who had a laboratory for making perfumery for the court.

 In 1865, Mr. Ungerer came over to Philadelphia, then the home of American perfumery, on a visit. He was not satisfied with business conditions there, and was on the point of going back to Europe when he was induced by a friend to go to Rochester, and it was in that city that he founded the firm of NO Vosburgh & Co (Star Chemical Works), manufacturers of perfumes, soaps, and toilet articles. In 1872, he entered the employ of Colgate & Co as chief perfumer, remaining with that house for twenty-one years, at the end of which on account of poor health, he entered the essential oil business as American representative of Roure Bertram Fils, his eldest son William G. Ungerer taking his place as chief perfumer for Colgate & Co. Three years later, young Ungerer joined his father in the essential oil business which was incorporated in 1901. He belonged to the Drug and Chemical Club and the Manufacturing Perfumers Association of the United States.


I have listed all the Colgate perfumes I have been able to find, I do know that 625 perfumes were available by 1920, so if there is one I missed, please let me know. Thanks

The following pictures shown below are from an old 1891 Colgate catalog.






The following pictures shown below are from an old 1901 Colgate catalog.










The perfumes of Colgate:

  • 1872 Cashmere Bouquet
  • 1872 Elder Flower
  • 1872 Jockey Club
  • 1872 Marshmallow
  • 1872 May Blossom
  • 1872 Musk
  • 1872 Musk Lavender
  • 1872 Patchouly
  • 1872 Primrose
  • 1872 Rondeletia
  • 1872 Rose
  • 1872 Rose Geranium
  • 1872 Verbena
  • 1879 Wedding March Bouquet
  • 1880 Ambrosial Perfume for the Bath
  • 1880 Cassie
  • 1880 Heliotrope
  • 1880 Heliotrope Toilet Water 
  • 1881 Bouquet de Caroline
  • 1881 Bridal Bouquet
  • 1881 Damask Rose
  • 1881 Lily of the Valley
  • 1881 Magnolia
  • 1881 May Flower
  • 1881 Musk Rose
  • 1881 New Mown Hay
  • 1881 Night Blooming Cereus
  • 1883 Caprice
  • 1886 Speciosa
  • 1886 Speciosa Toilet Water
  • 1887 Apple Blossom 
  • 1887 Blush Rose 
  • 1887 Ess Bouquet 
  • 1887 Fleur d Orange 
  • 1887 Four Seasons 
  • 1887 Frangipanni 
  • 1887 Garden Flowers 
  • 1887 Gardenia  
  • 1887 Italian Violet 
  • 1887 Jasmin 
  • 1887 Jonquil 
  • 1887 Kiss me quick 
  • 1887 Lavender Toilet Water
  • 1887 Lilium Auratum  
  • 1887 Lotos Blossom 
  • 1887 Meadow Flowers 
  • 1887 Mignonette 
  • 1887 Millefleurs 
  • 1887 Moss Rose 
  • 1887 Multiflora Toilet Water
  • 1887 Opoponax 
  • 1887 Pansy Blossom 
  • 1887 Pond Lily
  • 1887 Rosodora Toilet Water
  • 1887 Spring Flowers 
  • 1887 Souvenir 
  • 1887 Stephanotis 
  • 1887 Sweet Brier 
  • 1887 Sweet Clover 
  • 1887 Sweet Pea 
  • 1887 Sweet Pink 
  • 1887 Sweet Sixteen 
  • 1887 Tea Rose 
  • 1887 Tuberose 
  • 1887 Upper Ten 
  • 1887 Violet Toilet Water
  • 1887 West End 
  • 1887 White Heliotrope
  • 1887 White Lilac
  • 1887 White Rose 
  • 1887 White Violet 
  • 1887 Wood Violet 
  • 1887 Ylang Ylang 
  • 1889 La France Rose
  • 1889 Pansy Blossom
  • 1890 Coleo
  • 1890 Violet Water
  • 1890 May Bells
  • 1890 White Rose
  • 1890 White Violet
  • 1890 Fleurette
  • 1891 Apple Blossom
  • 1891 Ess. Bouquet
  • 1891 Frangipanni
  • 1891 Gardenia
  • 1891 Heliotrope
  • 1891 Italian Violets
  • 1891 Jasmin
  • 1891 Lilium Auratum
  • 1891 Lotos Blossom
  • 1891 May Blossom
  • 1891 Mignonette
  • 1891 Millefleurs
  • 1891 Moss Rose
  • 1891 Mountain Violets
  • 1891 Opoponax
  • 1891 Pansy Blossom
  • 1891 Reception Bouquet
  • 1891 Souvenir
  • 1891 Stephanotis
  • 1891 Sweet Lavender
  • 1891 Sweet Pea
  • 1891 Tea Rose
  • 1891 Tonquin Musk
  • 1891 Violet
  • 1891 West End
  • 1891 White Heliotrope
  • 1891 White Lilac
  • 1891 Ylang Ylang
  • 1894 Crab Apple Blossom
  • 1895 White Clematis
  • 1895 Bay Rum
  • 1897 Vioris
  • 1900 Young People's Perfumes (set)
  • 1900 Christmas Bouquet
  • 1900 Eclat
  • 1900 Holiday Bouquet
  • 1900 Splendor
  • 1900 Violet Water
  • 1901 Carnation
  • 1901 Dactylis
  • 1901 Lilac Imperial
  • 1901 Monad Violet
  • 1901 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1901 Robinia
  • 1901 Sandalwood
  • 1901 Trailing Arbutus
  • 1903 Viodora
  • 1903 Alba
  • 1903 Coronel
  • 1903 Dermal 
  • 1903 Quinol
  • 1903 Rosodora
  • 1904 Fantasy
  • 1904 Week-End
  • 1905 Knickerbocker
  • 1906 Carnival Violets
  • 1907 Frisia
  • 1907 La France Rose
  • 1908 Eleda
  • 1910 Lilac Imperial Toilet Water
  • 1910 Caprice Toilet Water
  • 1911 Corylopsis
  • 1911 Cut Roses
  • 1911 Royal Shamrock
  • 1912 Florient
  • 1914 Radiant Rose
  • 1914 Splendor
  • 1915 Eclat
  • 1915 Violette di Mai
  • 1915 Vision de Fleurs
  • 1917 Cha Ming
  • 1917 Les Fleurs Favorites
  • 1917 Orange Perfume
  • 1920 Dawn
  • 1920 Myself
  • 1921 Allegro
  • 1921 Atta
  • 1921 Clair de Lune
  • 1921 Florient
  • 1921 Hope
  • 1921 Piquante
  • 1921 Princess Harran
  • 1921 Sandalay
  • 1921 The Unknown Flower
  • 1922 Alba Violet
  • 1922 Fi Fi
  • 1922 La Liberte
  • 1922 Orchis
  • 1922 Pansy Blossom
  • 1922 Roses From Araby
  • 1922 Violette de Mai
  • 1922 Violets From The Riviera
  • 1923 Amarna
  • 1923 Bast
  • 1923 Egypt
  • 1923 Kahira
  • 1923 Khepera
  • 1923 Watch Case
  • 1924 Andor, reissued in 1954
  • 1925 Colgate Fleurs
  • 1926 Dona Flor
  • 1926 Night
  • 1926 Piquant
  • 1927 Orchis
  • 1928 Seventeen
  • 1936 Parami
  • 1949 Facade
  • 1959 Man Trap






Prices Current By Fuller & Fuller Co., Chicago, 1907:

Bill Blass by Bill Blass c1978

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Bill Blass for Women by Bill Blass: launched in 1978.


For the launch of the perfume, the press was invited to a brunch at I. Magnin in New York City. Later that day, 33 of Bill Blass' friends were invited to a Bistro lunch.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a green, fruity top, followed by an exotic floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery base.

  • Top notes: pineapple, cinnamon, green notes, galbanum, hyacinth, bergamot and geranium
  • Middle notes: jonquil, mimosa, carnation, tuberose, iris, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang and lily-of-the-valley
  • Base notes: cypress, sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, oakmoss, vetiver and cedar







Les Parfums de Suzy

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Established by Madame Suzy Michaud at 5 rue de Paix, Paris. She worked as a milliner in Paris and launched a range of fragrances in the late 1930s and early 1940’s. Her brand was associated with Macy's.




Ecarlate de Suzy and Golden Laughter

Not only was Ecarlate a perfume, but it was also the name of a toiletry line that included dusting powder, rouge, face powder and lipstick by Suzy.





The deluxe figural bottles for the perfumes Ecarlate de Suzy and Golden Laughter, were manufactured by Baccarat. This bottle was known as the "Hat Bottle" and came in three sizes, 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz and 1 oz.

The 1 ounce size stands approximately 4 3/8" tall and has Escarlate de Suzy or Golden Laughter de Suzy molded into the glass and picked out in red enamel for the Ecarlate and green enamel for Golden Laughter. The bottle has a small glass inner stopper underneath a hat shaped glass cap.

The 1/2 ounce size stands approximately 4" tall and has Escarlate de Suzy or Golden Laughter de Suzy molded into the glass and picked out in red enamel for the Ecarlate and green enamel for Golden Laughter. The bottle has a small glass inner stopper underneath a hat shaped glass cap.

The 1/4 ounce size stands approximately 3 1/4" tall.

It also came in a figural mini bottle, which was not made by Baccarat. This bottle stands just 1 3/4" tall and has a plastic screw cap.

The less expensive non figural versions of these perfumes were housed in non-Baccarat flacons, and the Eau de Parfum splash came in a bottle that stands 4 1/4" tall.

 Golden Laughter also came in a large, heavy square clear crystal bottle with a cylindrical glass center, the bottle is complete with a chunky square glass stopper. The neck of the bottle is eight sides and has four seams The bottle stands .5 3/4" tall x 2 1/4" square. The front has lime green serigraphy with "Suzy's Golden Laughter."














Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 46, 1940:
"Madame Suzy, Parisian creator of fashionable millinery, has introduced her first perfume, an exquisite fragrance called Ecarlate de Suzy. The crystal bottle, appropriately crowned with a Suzy hat, rests firmly on a scarlet satin foundation in front of a small mirror which reflects its charm. 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz and 1 oz sizes. Distributed by S.P.F. of America, Inc."

Harper's Bazaar, 1943:
"Because it's spring, because you have a new Easter bonnet, because you like that bandbox feeling, or just because. . . Suzy's newest scent, "Bandbox," in perfume and eau de parfum. The crystal bottles are sleek."

Harper's Bazaar, 1945:
"Picking a scent to suit one's moods and personality is difficult, but choosing a scent to fit the temperament of one's men is even harder. Many a matron has stood before a perfume bar, staring uncertainly at SUZY'S "GOLDEN LAUGHTER"— for the man who's easy-going, light-hearted, not too dependable — but fun to be with. He doesn't know why — but watch him linger, when you wear this warm and winning bouquet of light flower-scents."

The New Yorker, 1946:
"Madrigal, offered by Suzy, sounds as though it might be French, but it is actually made here (are you following all this? ), and a delightfully fresh and feminine thing it is, too."

Harper's Bazaar, 1946:
"Suzy's "Madrigal," lingering, with a definite lilt in it. 1/2 oz., $8."

The New Yorker, 1946:
"Suzy Eau de Parfum, an extra- strength toilet water in Ecarlate de Suzy — deep, rich, sultry. Golden Laughter — sunshine turned into scent. Bandbox — crisp, definite, fresh."

Advertising to the Mass Market, 1946:
"Here Suzy's "Bandbox" . . . "Spanking fresh, vital scent of youth with a slight provocative tang — the better to keep him guessing."

Harper's Bazaar, 1947:
" "Ecarlate de Suzy," lively scent in a millinery dummy bottle capped with a hat top. $15. Saks Fifth Avenue."

The perfumes of Madame de Suzy:
  • 1939 Ecarlate de Suzy (deep, sultry and rich wine-like sparkling, spicy sweet perfume)
  • 1941 Golden Laughter (bright tropical floral bouquet)
  • 1943 Bandbox (crisp, tangy, fresh perfume)
  • 1944 Madrigal (uplifting and fresh)




Collecting Blue Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

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In this guide, I will introduce you to the wonderful world of commercial perfume bottles made up of blue glass.

These elegant beauties were produced mainly during the 1920s-1950s and most have Art Deco influences. I know I don't have every one listed, if I missed one, let me know! Current values given below are for average book values and auction estimates. Why not start a collection focusing on just the blue glass bottles?



Rose Rouge by Catany: launched in the 1920s, opaque turquoise blue glass bottle, upright rectangular shape with thin profile, translucent blue glass stopper, button shape. Round gold label "ROSE ROUGE CATANY PARIS".Molded "FRANCE" on bottom. Produced by Cristalleries de Nancy.. Height 4.1 ins. / 10.4 cm.




Au Coeur des Calices by Coty: launched in 1913, pale blue glass bottle molded with design of flower petals and has a bee shaped stopper. Bottle by Rene Lalique.




Sol de Triana by Myrurgia: cobalt blue glass perfume bottle and molded floral stopper, ornate gold foil labels.  3 3/4".



Prince Matchabelli crown shaped perfume bottle and stopper in opaque blue glass with gilt detail. Marked Germany. 4". Used for various Matchabelli perfumes.




Nuit d'Amour by Godet: launched in 1925, transparent cobalt blue glass bottle with silver enamel. base acid etched France.

Dans la Nuit by Worth:launched in 1920, round disk shaped bottle with disk stopper molded with crescent moon and perfume name or with stars, by Lalique. Other variations of this bottle exist.

Jicky by Guerlain: launched in 1936 , cobalt blue glass "lanterne" bottle with clear glass stopper. Bottle was inspired by the arc lights of Paris. This bottle was also used for other Guerlain scents. In the photo below, the label is applied incorrectly, it should be on the base of the bottle.



Lucretia Vanderbilt by Lucretia Vanderbilt: launched in 1925, cobalt blue cased glass bottle, blue dauber-stopper, metal base and neck chain with silver butterfly logo. Same bottle was used for Blue Sky by Mori, also in the 1920s. 1925 Lucretia Vanderbilt Lucretia Vanderbilt cased blue glass perfume bottle




Lune de Miel by Benoit: launched in 1926, rare opaque turquoise blue glass bottle with crescent moon face and stars in silver finish,bottle by Depinoix.



Leda by Raffy: launched in 1925, cobalt blue glass bottle, nearly identical to the one for Lucretia Vanderbilt and Mori's Blue Sky perfume, but has a blue and silver foil paper label in the center reading "Raffy".



Blue Waltz by Joubert: launched in 1929, cobalt blue glass bottle with silver labels.


Parfum Pour Blondes by Lionceau: launched in 1927, opaque turquoise blue glass bottle with molded floral decoration. Botte made by H. Saumont.



Lilac by Prince Alexis N. Gagarin: launched in the 1920s, cobalt blue glass bottle, bottle has gilt enameled design of a crown and coat of arms, the stopper molded as the Russian Imperial double eagle and enameled in gold. This bottle was used for other Gagarin perfumes. Stands 3 3/4" tall.


Chance by Cherigan: launched in 1929, in opaque pearlescent blue glass bottle, with applied glass horseshoe and black glass stopper in silver gilt. Ht. 3 1/4 in (8 cm)



Je Reviens by Worth: launched in 1931, light cobalt blue glass bottle, cylindrical shape, fluted sides, by Lalique. Various sizes.



Canarina by Canarina: launched in 1928. Rene Lalique, Les Deux Bleus perfume bottle and dauber-stopper, blue glass, molded label and “eye” motif, molded Lalique mark. 2".



Blue Sky by Mori: launched in the 1920s, cobalt blue perfume bottle with the original “peacock tail” blue glass stopper that has a nice extended dauber. Base marked “France” and an obscure mark beneath. A factory “Parfum Francais” sticker is on one side and a “Blue Sky Parfum by Mori” paper label is on the other side. Stands 4 1/4" tall.



Evening in Paris by Bourjois: launched in 1926, cobalt blue glass bottles in various shapes and sizes.




Worth perfume atomizer, blue glass with star pattern. Signed Lalique. H. 5 inches. This might be fake.




Chu Chin Chow by Bryenne: launched in 1921, perfume bottle and inner stopper, cobalt blue glass, milk glass cover, gilt and enameled detail, labeling and signed G.K. Benda on bottom. 2 1/2" tall.



Springtime in Paris by Bourjois: launched in 1931, turquoise blue glass bottle, similar to the Evening in Paris bottles.

La Danse des Fleurs by Delettrez: launched in the early 1930s,  perfume bottle and stopper, cobalt blue glass, gilt details, snakeskin pattern box. 3 3/4" tall.





Heure Exquise by Breyenne: launched in 1924, blue glass bottle with gilt detail and labeled on base, in blue and gilt box with blue velvet cushion interior, 2 1/2" h x 3 1/2" w x 7/8" d.




Peking Moonlight by Oriental: launched in the 1920s, opaque turquoise blue glass.

Miracle by Lentheric: presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, clear for Asphodele, and Numero Douze in amber. Bottle stands 4" tall.


Argentina by Marques de Elorza: launched in 1929, cobalt blue glass bottle,  silver gilt detail. 4 1/8".


Jasmin by Divine: launched in 1930, cobalt blue glass bottle, black bakelite screw cap.

Coque d'Or by Guerlain: launched in 1938, cobalt blue bowtie shaped bottle by Baccarat, came in three sizes. Bottle was also gilded, and used for the perfumes Kriss and Dawamesk.


Nuit Etoilee de Bagdad by Diamant Bleu: launched in 1927, cobalt blue glass bottle by Societe Parisienne de Verreries (SPV), Julien Viard design.



Le Debut Bleu by Richard Hudnut: launched in 1927, opaque blue octagonal bottle with black stopper. Do not confuse this bottle with the 1980s bottle of similar design for Lou Lou by Cacharel.



Aveu D'Amour by Augusta Bernard: launched in the 1920s-1930s, cobalt glass bottle with clear frosted stopper.


Wild Jasmine by The House of Fragrance, Bermuda: launched in 1930, opaque turquoise blue glass bottle with transparent blue glass stopper. Bottle by Cristal Nancy.


Cocktail Hour by The Perfume Garret, Chicago: launched in 1940. Cobalt blue bottle molded with six sides with molded curlicues, arched shoulders, cobalt blue glass button stopper. Gold foil label. Bottle stands 3" tall.


Narcisse Perfume Bottles

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Caron's Narcisse Noir was so popular that it spawned many imitations, including the shape of the bottle. Some competitors tried to copy the bottle as close as possible without breaking the copyright or trademark laws, while others were a bit more unique in design.





The set made by Garno for their Narcisse perfume in 1927 featured clear glass bottles with flat, vibrant red glass stoppers molded in the shape of a flower. This is quite beautiful!




Here is the original ad from 1930 showing the set, just arranged differently,and the talcum bottle is a different shape.


In this advertisement, you cans ee several other Narcisse bottles.


                           





Narcisse Ambre by Society La France. The bottle measures 2.25" x 2.25" and is made up of clear glass with a frosted glass floral stopper. Bottle by Owens-Illinois Glass Co.



Narcisse by Parfumerie la Rae. Bottle stands 2" tall by about 2.5" wide. Bottle made up of clear glass with a frosted glass daisy stopper.





Bottle measures 2 1/4" wide by 1 3/4" tall and is identical to that used by Parfumerie La Rae. Label reads "Narcisse,  Parfumerie St Cyr, Paris France." Neck label reads "Extrait Concentre."Bottle by Owens-Illinois Glass Co.



Maison Andrae:






Narcisse by Maison Andrae. The bottle measures 2 3/8" tall x 1 1/4" at it's widest point x 5/8" thick. Bottle by Owens-Illinois Glass Co. is almost a square shape with rounded corners, and molded with a ray pattern on the lower panels. It featured a hexagonal frosted clear glass stopper which was painted black and fitted with a cork. The label says “Parfum Narcisse--Maison Andrae--Paris--Chicago”.







This Narcisse bottle, made by Heisey, stands 2 1/4" tall. The bottle is almost a square shape with rounded corners, and molded with flowers on the shoulders and a ray pattern on the lower panels. The square black glass stopper is molded with an intricate pattern of fans and flowers. Bottle by Owens-Illinois Glass Co.


Round clear glass Maison Andre flacon with orange peel pebbled base and smooth shoulders, the stopper is made up of black matte glass. Bottle measures 1 7/8" tall x 1 7/8" in diameter. Bottle by Owens-Illinois Glass Co.

White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor c1991

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White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor: launched in 1991. Created by Carlos Benaim. (created by Sophia Grosjman of IFF).

Elizabeth Taylor fashioned a fragrance inspired by her well-known love of fine gems: White Diamonds.





Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as aldehydic floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, Italian neroli, orange and Amazonian lily
  • Middle notes: violet, Turkish rose and jasmine, ylang-ylang, Egyptian tuberose and narcissus
  • Base notes: Italian orris, oakmoss, patchouli, musk, sandalwood and amber

Bottle:


The bottle was created by New York designer Susan Wacker. Reflecting Taylor's glittery presence, the round glass perfume bottle sports a golden bow adorned with simulated diamonds.


Fate of the Fragrance:


White Diamonds has had consistent sales for over 20 years and is generally thought of as a classic women's scent. White Diamonds was named Best Women’s Fragrance and was inducted into the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2009.

Over the years, several flanker scents were created based on the success of the original White Diamonds perfume: the spicy oriental floral Diamonds & Rubies features peach, lavender and rose (1993), the fruity floral Diamonds & Sapphires features amber, sandalwood, musk and vetiver (1993), the oriental floral Diamonds & Emeralds features gardenia, water lily and jasmine (1993), the soapy floral Sparkling White Diamonds (1999), the floral aldehydic Brilliant White Diamonds (2001), and the fruity floral White Diamonds Lustre (2014).




Organza by Givenchy c1996

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Organza by Givenchy: launched in October 1996 during the Paris spring Pret-a-Porter. . Created by Sophie Labbe. The fragrance was inspired by the gauzy fabric.








Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes:sap, bergamot, cassis, orange flower and rosewood
  • Middle notes: gardenia, tuberose, honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, peony, mace and nutmeg 
  • Base notes: vanilla, amber, cedar, guaiac, sandalwood, orris and musk 


Bottles:


Presented in a bottle designed by Serge Mansau.

The pure Parfums (extraits) were housed in crystal bottles and packaged in cylindrical boxes which opened vertically.




Initially presented as:
  • 0.3 oz Parfum (originally retailed for $145)
  • 1 oz Parfum (originally retailed for $250)
  • 7ml Parfum Luxury Refillable Purse Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Splash (originally retailed for $53, price rose to $62 in 1998)
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Splash (originally retailed for $72)
  • 1 oz Eau de Parfum Spray (originally retailed for $45)
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray (originally retailed for $55, price rose to $57 in 1997)
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray (originally retailed for $75, price rose to $77 in 1997)

In 1997, the following products were added to the line:
  • 6.75 oz Perfumed Body Veil (originally retailed for $48, price rose to $57 in 1998)
  • 6.75 oz Perfumed Body Cream (originally retailed for $68)
  • 6.75 oz Perfumed Bath Gel (originally retailed for $41)





How to tell vintage from newer?

Older BOXES are textured cardstock, as you can see on the left in the picture above, also notice the pattern around the border of the box. This box design was used from 1996-2004. Also notice the Givenchy logo is just above the name Organza on the vintage box, while it is towards the bottom of the box on the newer example. On older boxes, the ingredients list is short, after 2004, the ingredient list is much longer. The decorative border around the edges is more artistic on the vintage boxes, starting in 2004, a new box design was introduced, which showed a sponge painted design as the edging.

You can tell the older bottles from the newer because they are partially frosted, while newer bottles are completely unfrosted glass. Please note that there is a transition period where you will find frosted bottles in the new packaging, this is because the company wishes to use up old stock. Older caps will have a crackled appearance whilst newer ones are smooth.

Older bottles will have perfume that has turned dark, this is due to the natural aging process of the ingredients used such as vanilla and jasmine.

Louis Vuitton acquired Parfums Givenchy in 1986 when they bought the champagne and perfume group Veuve Clicquot, who had purchased Parfums Givenchy from Hubert de Givenchy in 1981.

 In 2002, parent company Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) started using 4 alphanumeric batch codes for fragrances. The first number is the last number of the date. For the years 2002-2007, the second digit in the code will be the letters A through M. Starting in 2008, the letters N through Z were used. Example, batch code 4F01 would be 2004.

LVMH Fragrance Brands is a house of the Perfumes and Cosmetics division of LVMH Group. It has been created in 2011 and brings together the savoir-faire and the passion of two iconic brands : Parfums Givenchy and Kenzo Parfums. So if your box reads LVMH Fragrance Brands, it will date to 2011 and after.



Look at this comparison of older and newer boxes, notice the ingredient list is quite short on the vintage box on the left compared to the modern boxes to the right.


Fate of the Fragrance:

As of November 2018, Organza is not featured on Givenchy's website. I believe it may finally be discontinued.


Flanker Scents:


Organza Legere (Eau de Toilette): launched in 1997. A lighter, airy version of the original Organza, in an Eau de Toilette form. This was a limited edition for summer months, has been discontinued and is very rare.




    Organza Eau d'Été Parfumée: launched in 1998. It is a non-alcoholic fragrance created to be worn during the summer months. Discontinued.
    • Top notes: bergamot, gardenia, green notes, grapes and neroli
    • Middle notes: honeysuckle, jasmine, iris, peony, tuberose and walnut
    • Base notes: amber, guaiac wood, woody notes, vanilla and cedar

    Organza Indecence: c1999. Presented in a bottle designed by Serge Mansau. Discontinued. It is classified as a woody oriental fragrance for women.

    • Top notes: mandarin, nutmeg, cardamom, bergamot
    • Middle notes: carnation, cinnamon, rose, orris
    • Base notes: cedar, sandalwood, oakmoss and labdanum

    Organza Indecence Eau de Toilette du Desert (Desert Mist Spray): launched in 2001. This is a limited edition, a fresh, lighter version of the Organza Indecence fragrance with an emphasis on the spicy cinnamon. I believe that this is non-alcoholic. Discontinued. 
    • Top note: mandarin orange
    • Middle notes: spicy notes and plum
    • Base notes: amber and musk

    Organza Huile Sacree Dry Oil Spray: launched in 1999 as a limited edition. It has been long discontinued and very hard to find. I believe it is a silicone based "dry oil" which was the trend at the time. I think this was replaced by the Organza Nuage Parfumee (Perfume Air Spray) shortly later.


    Organza Nuage Parfume Perfumed Air Spray: launched around 2000 or later. This was a silicone based perfume spray. It was formulated without alcohol and water. The silicone was a sort of "dry oil" type fragrance spray that would leave your skin silky moisturized and non-oily. It was advised to spray all over the body for a refreshed feeling.



    Organza Eau de Toilette du Desert: launched in 2001. This is a limited edition, a fresh, lighter version of the Organza fragrance with an emphasis on white gardenia. I believe this is a non-alcoholic tweaked relaunch of the previous summer fragrance, Organza Eau d'Ete Parfumee.
    • Top notes: nutmeg, gardenia, green notes
    • Middle notes; jasmine, tuberose, honeysuckle
    • Base notes: vanilla, iris, white cedar, amber 


    Organza First Light: 2004. Created by Sophie Labbé. A fresh light floral oriental version of the original Organza fragrance. Discontinued.
    • Top notes: honeysuckle, lily of the valley, lemon
    • Middle notes: gardenia, jasmine, ylang ylang
    • Base notes: benzoin, vanilla, woodsy notes





    Les Millésimes de Givenchy:



    Harvest Fragrances were limited editions from the Les Millésimes de Givenchy collection. Each year the fragrance would be enriched with a specific floral. EDP presented in a 60 ml bottle. All are discontinued.

    Organza Jasmin d'Inde Millésime 2005:  launched in 2006.Created by Françoise Donche, using the outstanding crop of the dominant floral note to produce more intense or more refined version; jasmine, like mimosa, is a complex flower and Givenchy found its outstanding harvest of Jasminum Grandiflorum, in the state of Tamil Nadu in southern India, to be of exceptional quality. Using jasmine from the June/July 2005 harvest, including 700 kg of jasmine blossoms were needed to yield 1.1 kg of jasmine absolute.  Only about 80,000 50ml eau de parfum bottles were produced making this a very hard to find item.

    Organza Fleur d'Oranger de Nabeul Harvest 2006 : launched in 2007. This composition is based on a spectacular orange-blossom harvest from the Nabeul orchards of Tunisia.

    Organza Jasmin Delta du Nil Égypte Harvest 2007: launched in 2008. Features exceptional jasmine from the Nile delta.

    Organza Fleur d'Oranger Khemisset Maroc Harvest 2008 : launched in 2009. This composition featured Moroccan orange blossom.

    Organza Jasmin Sambac Coimbatore India Harvest 2009:  launched in 2010. Part of their Les Millésimes de Givenchy collection - year 2009 'harvest fragrance'.    An edp with notes of neroli, honeysuckle, petitgrain, orange blossom, soft spices and vanilla.

    Organza Néroli Delta du Nil Égypte Harvest 2010: launched in 2011.  "Includes a spectacular orange blossom note, this time harvested on the Nile Delta, Egypt.”

    Organza Lace Edition Les Creations Couture: launched in 2012. Instead of the Harvest theme, this year, a new edition, Les Creations Couture was presented. 60 ml Eau de Toilette.

    Columbian Exposition 1893

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    "The World's Columbian Exposition (the official shortened name for the World's Fair: Columbian Exposition, also known as the Chicago World's Fair and Chicago Columbian Exposition) was a world's fair held in Chicago in 1893 to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus's arrival to the New World in 1492.



     The centerpiece of the Fair, the large water pool, represented the long voyage Columbus took to the New World. Chicago bested New York City, Washington, D.C., and St. Louis for the honor of hosting the fair. The Exposition was an influential social and cultural event and had a profound effect on architecture, sanitation, the arts, Chicago's self-image, and American industrial optimism.

    The layout of the Chicago Columbian Exposition was, in large part, designed by John Wellborn Root, Daniel Burnham, Frederick Law Olmsted and Charles B. Atwood. It was the prototype of what Burnham and his colleagues thought a city should be. It was designed to follow Beaux Arts principles of design, namely French neoclassical architecture principles based on symmetry, balance, and splendor. The color of the material generally used to cover the buildings facades gave the fairgrounds its nickname, the White City. Many prominent architects designed its 14 "great buildings". Artists and musicians were featured in exhibits and many also made depictions and works of art inspired by the exposition.

    The exposition covered 690 acres (2.8 km2), featuring nearly 200 new (but deliberately temporary) buildings of predominantly neoclassical architecture, canals and lagoons, and people and cultures from 46 countries. More than 27 million people attended the exposition during its six-month run. Its scale and grandeur far exceeded the other world's fairs, and it became a symbol of the emerging American Exceptionalism, much in the same way that the Great Exhibition became a symbol of the Victorian era United Kingdom. "-  Wikipedia

    Souvenirs were sold in many forms, which included jewelry, coins, stamps, hand fans, post cards, photos, and a bit rarer,  are the perfume bottles. The perfume bottles shown below are of three types: throwaway bottles (erroneously known as tear-catchers), scent bottles and a commercial bottle by Herman Tappan.

    The throwaway bottles are long skinny, crudely fashioned glass bottles which often had gilded decorations, these bottles were for the attar or otto of rose or oxford lavender. Many people erroneously have used the term "tear bottle" to market these simple scent bottles, which also go by names such as tear bottle, tear catcher, lapel bottle, tear vial, boot bottle, unguentaria, bosom bottle, or unguentarium. There are also several less common spellings for lachrymatory, including lacrymatory.



    Dubbed throwaway bottles as when the lady of the house returned from the store where she purchased her otto bottle, she would then decant the contents into her own fancy bottles on her vanity or in her chatelaine scent bottle. The majority of these rather crude perfume bottles were made more for the common folk than the wealthy. These were sold at spas, fairs and shops and not made for refill, hence the name throwaway. The earliest mention I have found for them is in an 1804 newspaper, The Times (London). Another early mention is from an 1830 New York Evening Post newspaper, "Otto of Roses, in small gilt bottles, warranted pure, put up in boxes of one dozen each."

    Most bottles measure 7” to 8” long and have a ground stopper with a round, flat top. These bottles were usually made of clear glass, but can also be found in blue, amber, green or other colors.

    These bottles were blown glass and the stoppers often had a long dauber that reached down near the end of the bottle, the glass was decorated with ovals, crisscrosses, spirals, crosshatching, and flat planes cut into the sides. The bottles were hand decorated with bright enamels or rich gilding.

    I had reported previously that the bottles were only made in Germany and Bohemia but upon further research, I have found that many of the gilded examples actually originated in Beykoz, Turkey.


    The opaline glass scent bottles were most likely made in either France or Bohemia and imported into the United States. These are a white milk glass, fitted with gilded brass flip top caps, and each bottle has a transfer printed scene of a Columbian Exposition attraction, such as the Aqarium [sic], the Miner's Building and the Woman's Building. One of the bottles has a chain with finger ring attached to the collar so that it could be suspended from the finger or a chatelaine hook. The bottles also have flat bottoms so that they could be stood on the vanity table or inside of a cabinet when not in use.


    Closeup photos of the bottles showing the scenes.





    The Exposition featured many perfumers who displayed their newest and most popular wares amongst one another, often in fabulously decorated pavilions and booths. 

    Exhibitors from around the world came to America to show off their imported perfumes. I have listed the various companies and firms, as well as any comments that were written about them at the exhibition.

    France: 

    • A. Bourjois et Cie of Paris
    • Cottan of Paris
    • Demarson-Chetalet (Houbigant) of Paris
    • Georges Lamaille et Cie of Paris
    • Louis Noir (Ancienne Maison Leopold) of Paris
    • Ed Pinaud of Paris
    • Raspail of Paris
    • Oriza Legrand of Paris
    • Rigaud et Cie of Paris
    • Victor Vaissier of Roubaix (Nord)
    • Jean Charles Wiggishoff of Paris

    World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago, Ill., 1893, Volume 2:
    "It was not hard to discover that in the line of perfumes France took the lead. The largest exhibit was that of Pinaud of Paris whose display was par excellence. His was the center of attraction to thousands of visitors who lingered around its scented precincts. This salon was one of the gems of the manufactures building and its treasures of musk were worth more than their weight in gold. Rose sandal and other precious woods were examined with infinite pleasure and after seeing it all one ceases to wonder why the products of the Parfumerie Ed Pinaud have such a reputation the civilized world over. The display of essential oils and crude perfumes was an attractive one and the collection of different kinds of musk won the admiration of all druggists who saw it. 
    The following firms had exhibits of finished products all finely installed in a characteristically Parisian manner: Vaissier Paris, Rigaud Paris, the latter was quite lavish in the use of an atomizer upon the crowds which passed through the section. Demarson & Chetalet Paris perfumes and soaps, Societe Hygienique Paris, medicated soaps and dentifrices. Raspall Paris perfumes soaps and toilet preparations, Dorin Paris powders and cosmetics, Lamaille & Co Nice perfumes and extracts, Lautier fils Graese perfumes, pomades, extracts, and olive oil." 



    Belgium:

    • Auguste de Marbaix of Antwerp


    Japan:

    • Fusajiro Hiroocka of Osaka
    • Kyuzo Kamagai of Kyoto

    Germany:

    • Johann Marie Farina of Cologne
    • Anton Sauberlich of Zwickan

    Austria:

    • Anton Adamek of Vienna

    Great Britain:

    • Alexander James & Co of London
    • JE Atkinson of London
    • Crown Perfumery Co of London
    • J. Gosnell of London
    • Sarah Sprules of Wallington
    • Stevenson & Howell of London

    Canada:

    • Lyman Sons & Co of Montreal

    Russia:

    • A. Rallet of Moscow
    • H. Brocard of Moscow
    • A. Ivanov of Moscow
    • A. Rheinherz of St. Petersburg
    • R. Eliashev of St. Petersburg

    United States Congressional serial set, Issue 4374
    "A. Rheinherz St Petersburg showed plasters, capsules, perfumes, and various chemicals. A. Rallet Moscow had a fine display of perfumes."


    USA:

    • BD Baldwin of Chicago
    • Joseph Burnett of Boston
    • JS Kirk & Sons of Chicago
    • Frederick Stearns 
    • Ladd & Coffin (Lundborg) of New York
    • Lazell of New York
    • George Lorenz of Toledo, Ohio
    • Robert Low's of Brooklyn, NY
    • Theo Ricksecker of New York
    • Zehring of Chicago

    United States Congressional serial set, Issue 4374:
    "The perfumery and toilet articles display as a whole was quite creditable although not in such a luxurious style as the same class of exhibits in the French section. Ladd & Coffin of New York were equally as lavish with their special odors in supplying the public as was Pinaud. This firm had a very attractive display, their goods are of superior quality, put up in attractive style and have a reputation for delicacy of odor, lasting fragrance and true to name. Theo Ricksecker had a very handsome display of his popular odors. The products of this firm were the only odors allowed for sale on the Fair grounds. There were many other displays in this line that deserve special mention but as I am requested to write up the pharmaceutical display proper....
     Frederick Stearns and Co. This was a very handsome and tasty exhibit and a very pleasant place in which to pass an hour now and then. It was the most homelike of all exhibits and the very pleasant greeting by Mr Stearns Jr and Mr Penrose Jones made one soon feel at at home. This firm exhibited for competition their elegant line of perfumery and toilet articles in plain ornamental and cut glass bottles. The reputation gained by this firm on their perfumery was manifest by the request for their leaders Crab Apple, White Rose, Heliotrope, Four Roses, and Amorita. This firm exhibited also a full line of pharmaceuticals consisting of fluid and solid extracts, elixirs, syrups, wines, powders, pills, compressed tablets, and triturates.
    One of the most artistic and attractive of our domestic exhibits in the great manufacturers building was that of Joseph Burnett & Co of Boston. This firm had on exhibition their flavoring extracts cologne water smelling salts and their wonderful color pastes...The cologne and lavender waters wood violet extract and other odors displayed are of exceptional sweetness delicate and lasting."

    The World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago, 1893:
     "Another of the same character and also of excellent merit is that of Theo Ricksecker. The pavilion which contains it is handsome and elaborate and the wares are also beautiful and attractive." 

    Official Guide to the World's Columbian Exposition in the City of Chicago, 1893:
     "Pavilions of Note. Among the most striking of the pavilions in the Manufactures building are the the following: JS Kirk & Co toilet soaps, Ladd & Coflin and Theo Ricksecker perfumeries." 



    Some of these perfumery companies produced special perfumes commemorating the event, such as Seely's Columbian Bouquet. This World's Fair perfume bottle made for Herman Tappan was most likely made by Corning, as they manufactured most, if not all of Tappan's perfume bottles. The date on the bottle reads "1892".

    To read about another exhibitor at the exposition, view my blog post on the Lundborg PerfumeryIt was at the 1893 Chicago World's Fair that the Young, Ladd & Coffin firm was awarded the highest award for their Lundborg Perfumes. By this time, Lundborg had received eight medals in total for their perfumes.



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