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Lauren by Ralph Lauren c1978

October 13, 2017, 12:26 pm
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Lauren by Ralph Lauren: launched in 1978. It was originally launched under the distribution of Warner/Lauren LTD.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh green floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: spearmint, tagetes, pineapple, clary sage, green notes, Brazilian rosewood
  • Middle notes: cyclamen, violet, lilac, jasmine, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: musk, carnation, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar


Bottles:


The parfum was contained in an exquisite heavy lead crystal flacon designed by Ben Kotyuk. The bottle was inspired by an antique Regency period inkwell and has been in the permanent collection of the Cooper Hewitt museum since 1981.

Parfum:
  • 1 oz Splash in lead crystal flacon
  • 1/2 oz Splash in lead crystal flacon
  • 1/4 oz Splash in lead crystal flacon
  • 1/8 oz miniature in clear or red glass bottles
  • 3/8 oz Purse Spray in frosted glass bottle
  • 0.25 oz Parfum Refill
  • 0.10 oz Traveler Refillable Purse Spray



The Eau de Toilette is contained in ruby red bottles topped by gold caps.
  • 4 oz
  • 2 oz


Ancillary Products:
  • 3.4 oz Moisturizing Perfume Mist
  • 3.5 oz Classic Body Talc
  • 3.5 oz Classic Body Soap
  • 4 oz Classic Body Powder
  • 8 oz Classic Body Creme



Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Lauren has been reintroduced

If you are looking for vintages - your best bet is to look for the Colognes, the Parfums in the clear crystal inkwell bottles, and the bath & body products (though these may not be good to use after so long) and any of the products under the Warner/Lauren LTD/Designer Fragrance Div (White Product Line introduced in 1989) or just the Cosmair name on bottles AND boxes. The back of the box will also have less ingredient information than on the newer boxes.

The oldest boxes for the Parfum in the crystal bottle are marked on the back with:
Lauren Perfume Contains:
Alcohol SDC 309C, Fragrance
Warner/Lauren LTD
Dist. New York/New York 10019

Avoid the items with the co-branded "Luxury Products LLC" (although another division of L'Oreal) name. Beware, these perfumes have suffered reformulations that many reviewers vehemently complained about.

Please notes that your bottle may have a Cosmair label, while your box may have the Luxury Products branding, this overlapping is usually due to the usage of old and new stock until all of the old branded stock is gone.



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MAC Potions c1999

October 22, 2017, 5:57 pm
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These alcohol free fragrances were launched in 1999 and was part of a limited edition called "MAC Potions Collection". "These are the MAC expression of fragrance, three modern primal elixirs, distillates of global ingredients infused in oil with 50% fragrance to create a highly concentrated, highly personal experience." The line was discontinued in 2001.  The perfumes were: Hyper Souk, Synthetic Nirvana and Asphalt Flower. The fragrances, developed by Quest International, were priced at $25 for a vial set and are designed to wear in an amulet, which retailed for $40.

Synthetic Nirvana, a spice based fragrance. Reminiscent of a head shop scent with a cannabis flower accord and herbal accents :

  • Top notes: cannabis flower, clary sage, brown oregano and Spanish thyme
  • Middle notes: red poppies, Padouk wood, eaglewood an Sumatran patchouli 
  • Base notes: Arabian myrrh and sweet incense



Asphalt Flower, a floral based fragrance. A powdery blend of black violet, wood notes and fruit :

  • Top notes: black violet, raspberry, ylang-ylang
  • Middle notes: orris, jasmine, lilac and heliotrope
  • Base notes: olibanum, vanilla, patchouli, woods



Hyper Souk,a fruity cinnamon fragrance:  the balmy ambiance of a room filled with mouthwatering aroma of fruit compote cooked with spicy touches of cinnamon and bay rum.

  • Top notes: quince, plum, Armenian paper
  • Middle notes: bay rum, red rose, cinnamon
  • Base notes: wild vanilla, Maltese cistus labdanum, styrax, amber



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Gymkana by Jean Desses c1964

July 3, 2017, 1:01 pm
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Gymkana by Jean Desses: launched in 1964. Subtitled 'Eau pour la Toilette'. equestrian competition




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leather chypre fragrance for men:

  • Top notes: citrus notes, bergamot, herbs, green notes
  • Middle notes: labdanum, patchouli
  • Base notes: vanilla, woodsy notes, oak moss, leather, amber, musk



Bottle:


Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Camin.






Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1970.
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Pucci by Emilio Pucci c1981

November 1, 2017, 1:27 pm
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Pucci by Emilio Pucci: launched in 1981 as an Eau de Parfum.




Fragrance Composition:


 So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh citrus floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, citrus notes
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, orange blossom
  • Base notes: musk, toffee, sandalwood


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1987.


Flanker Scent:


By 1985, the success of Pucci spawned a flanker scent called Pucci Eau Fraiche, a lighter version of the original. This is also discontinued.

Pucci Eau Fraiche is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: citrus notes, green notes
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, rose
  • Base notes: musk, sandalwood
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Le Clairac

November 3, 2017, 4:06 pm
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Solis Le Clairac of Paris, France had exported his perfumes exclusively to the El Encanto store of Havana, Cuba starting around 1932 and continued to do so by 1946. Apparently Solis owned the El Encanto store.






The perfumes of Le Clairac:
  • 1932 For Ever
  • 1934 Forbidden Love
  • 1934 Kismaju 
  • 1934 Nuit Espagnole (Spanish Night, Noche Espagnola)
  • 1935 Le No. 5
  • Toujours et Toi
  • Jasmin
  • C'Est Pour Vou









For Ever:


Launched in 1932. This perfume bottle and cover is made up of opaque green glass, with an inner black glass stopper, black enamel detail and labeling. Exclusively for El Encanto shop, Cuba. 2 5/8" tall.







Kismaju:

Kismaju was launched in 1934. Kismaju is named after a port city in southern Somalia. The perfume was presented in both clear and a yellow Czech glass perfume bottle with an Art Deco stepped shape and matching stopper, both are accented with black enameled stripes. Stopper intaglio molded with "Le Clairac". Height 6 3/8".

Harper's Bazaar, 1935:
"El Encanto's perfume department is one of the best things Havana holds out to you. Le Clairac's "Kismaju" is delicious and put up in a particularly handsome bottle."

Harper's Bazaar, 1935:
"KISMAJU" an inspired perfume by Le Clairac India's fascinating spirit and eternal mystery is subtly reflected in this exquisite scent . . . most charmingly attuned to the mood of today's distinguished women. When you come to Havana ask for "Kismaju" at El Encanto . . . the home of precious perfumes — rare Spanish linens . . . treasures from all over the world."
 



Forbidden Love:

Launched in 1934, Forbidden Love was presented in a pink Czech cut crystal bottle in diamond shape with a pedestal foot, it was fitted with a diamond shaped stopper. Stopper intaglio molded with "Le Clairac". It measures 6" high x 3.25" wide.




Nuit Espagnole:

Launched in 1934, Nuit Espagnole, a gardenia perfume, was presented in a bottle with an arched shape, and an arched shaped stopper with hobnails.

Harper's Bazaar, 1934:
"Of course, all you Americans go mad over El Encanto's perfumes: “Nuit Espagnole,” Lanvin's “Scandal,” and “My Sin.” But I'll spend my time in the linen department, thank you, and let my beaux buy me the perfumes as a surprise."


Travels, 1936:
"When in Havana, ask for "NUIT ESPAGNOLE". Starlit Spanish nights . . . tropical moons . . . languorous moods are suggested in this subtle perfume. "Nuit Espagnole" (Spanish Night) is sold on this continent only at El Encanto."








No. 5:

No. 5 was a perfume scented with orange blossoms. It was presented in a pyramidal bottle fitted with a ball stopper.


Harper's Bazaar:
"On your winter cruise, stopping off in Havana, you will be blessed if you bring back Le Clairac perfume from its famed store, El Encanto. "No. 5" is a smart odor which any woman would love."

C'est Pour Vou:


This was an exciting oriental perfume for women.



Toujours et Toi:



Jasmin:


The bottle for Jasmin was ribbed, melon shaped clear glass and was fitted with a flat, circular shaped, jadeite green glass stopper. The bottle was accented with jadeite green glass beads which hung from the baudruchage on the neck of the bottle. This bottle was designed by Julien Viard and was also available in both opaque black glass and clear glass used for Best & Co. for their 1923 perfume, Qui m'aime? Bottle stands 2.25" tall x 2.35" diameter.  Reference: Masterpieces of the Perfume Industry by Christie Mayer Lefkowith, page 158.









El Encanto department store in Havana, Cuba.


On April 13, 1961 a dreadful fire caused by the explosion of several bombs in chain stores reduced to ashes, perhaps most emblematic of Central America: El Encanto de La Habana. It was founded in 1888 by brothers Bernard and Pepe Solis as a fabric store. In 1900 the Spaniard enters another company, Entrialgo, and the company would be renamed Solis and Co. Entrialgo El Encanto.

















images: ebay seller collect-4-fun! 
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Kate Spade Beauty by Kate Spade c2002

November 15, 2017, 1:30 pm
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Kate Spade by Kate Spade: launched in 2002. Created by Jacques Cavallier.


In 1999 Estee Lauder Inc. announced that it had signed a licensing agreement to create a Kate Spade Beauty, a line of bath and body products. The first Kate Spade beauty products were launched in the U.S. fall 2001. By the spring of 2002, it launched its signature fragrance based on the scent of a white floral bouquet . The line won a 2003 Fragrance Foundation Recognition Award ("FiFi" Award) for Bath & Body Star of the Year.


The Kate Spade signature fragrance was available in body cream, lotion, perfume, and dusting powder.

Fragrance Composition:


It is classified as a white floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: honeysuckle and coconut
  • Middle notes: jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, lily-of-the-valley
  • Base notes: 


Fate of the Fragrance:


This fragrance has been discontinued for years and can be hard to find.

In May 2003,, Kate Spade  introduced a limited edition scented shimmering body cream, Classic Pearls (retailing for $42 at Bloomingdale's). Classic Pearls, a fresh and clean, lighter version of Kate Spade's signature honeysuckle scent with additional notes of gardenia, tuberose, jasmine and lily of the valley, contains shimmery particles and was also available in an eau de toilette concentration. This Kate Spade fragrance is fresh and clean and is inspired by Kate’s trips to the Hamptons in New York.  The vintage yellow-rose wallpaper in the master bedroom of their southampton cottage is  the basis for the packaging of her scent.



Followed by:
  • 2003 Kate Spade Beauty Winter Blossom
  • 2003 Kate Spade Beauty Classic Pearls
  • 2009 Kate Spade Summer Time

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Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve c1986

November 20, 2017, 10:55 am
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“Deneuve” in 1986.  Avon Products licensed French actress Catherine Deneuve's name for the scent and introduced it in stores in 1987. Created by Jacques Vermorel.


Avon tested a specially created subsidiary, Avon Marketing Direct, which offered "personal beauty advisers who cater to the total woman." The "advisers" would give customers advice about both fashion and beauty. As full time employees, consultants "will not be in conflict with our representatives." The new distribution scheme aimed at the more affluent market Avon had targeted with a new subsidiary, Parfums Phenix, which will sell a $165-an-ounce perfume named Deneuve, after the French actress, in 1986. Avon first used mail-order magazine advertisements to sell the Deneuve perfume. A year later the pricey fragrance was introduced in 50 stores, by 1988, it was available in 300.

Catherine Deneuve was whisked around the United States in the Avon jet to promote her perfume at the better department stores in the major cities.

 The Paris New (Paris, Texas), 1987:
"In a corner of the Beverly Hills Hotel reception room, Miss Deneuve submitted dutifully to the questions of a reporter. Why a perfume? “Why not? Like all women, perfume is something very personal to me, and something I have been wearing quite young. Given the opportunity to take part in the making of the product, it was something I found very exciting,” she said. “Because perfume is so personal, not all women will like mine. It is very romantic because it is very floral, very open in a way. I wanted something you could wear in the day and in the night, something you could use for a long time and not feel tired of it.”





Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a green top,followed by a green floral heart, resting on a woody, powdery base.
  • Top notes: black currant buds, lemon, mandarin, angelica, galbanum, bergamot, aldehydes, green notes, neroli, basil
  • Middle notes: marigold, orris, jasmine, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, rose, lily-of-the-valley, violet
  • Base notes: heliotrope, myrrh, vetiver, vanilla, patchouli, benzoin, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, Virginia cedar, civet

Ancillary Products:

In 1987, Phenix Parfums introduced an ancillary line, Le Bain Deneuve. The bath line originally had only three products: a moisturizing bath and shower gelee, body lotion and glistening dusting powder and all shared the same three point formula of silk proteins for silkiness, collagen for suppleness and elasticity, and Vitamin E to impart healing. All products contain high fragrance concentrations of the floral, semi-oriental Deneuve fragrance.

Later perfumed soap (Savons Parfumes), body cream, deodorant, and talcum powder (Talc Parfume) were added to the lineup. In store clinics were planned to show customers how to prolong the scent by layering the various products. A mini coffret of product samples, including a half ounce packet of each bath product and a matchbook sample of the EDT, were given out to customers.



Fate of the Fragrance:


The introduction of Catherine Deneuve fragrance won the Fragrance Foundation's "Most Successful Launch" (FiFi) award in 1987, but it was discontinued, by 1989.


Business Week, 1989:
"Early results were disappointing — its first fragrance, Deneuve, flopped."

Forbes, 1990:
"The flops notwithstanding, fragrance companies will continue to try to translate celebrity images into pleasing aromas. ... Avon Products licensed French actress Catherine Deneuve's name for the scent and introduced it in stores in 1987.  The product hasn't taken off. Avon should have known better. Despite her stunning beauty and acting abilities, Deneuve's image apparently was not right for a perfume. Chesebrough-Pond's tested the idea of a Deneuve fragrance several years ago and rejected it, on the grounds that Deneuve's icy beauty came across to many women as just plain chilly. Avon has never made a dime on Deneueve, proving Chesebrough's market researchers right."




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Sherrell Copy Cat Fragrances

December 10, 2017, 3:06 am
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Sherrell Perfumers of Beverly Hills was established by Murray Poznak, the former president of Magic Marker Co.


Court Document regarding Sherrell:
Sherrell was founded in mid-1973 to produce and market copies of recognized perfumes, colognes and other toiletries. Sherrell initially purchased many of the essential oils for these products from IFF; IFF agreed to supply high-quality oils and to mimic the colors of name-brand products closely. Following disputes between IFF and Sherrell concerning the manner in which Sherrell advertised its products, IFF ceased selling oils to Sherrell in the Fall of 1974.
Sherrell hired Edward Silkin, a perfume chemist, to assist in the formulation of Sherrell fragrances. Sherrell sought to discover alternative sources for essential oils, but apparently had limited success. Sherrell also encountered increasing difficulty placing its advertisements in various newspapers. Sherrell discontinued business at the end of 1976, when this lawsuit was commenced.
Sherrell published advertisements in a variety of newspapers and magazines between December, 1973 and November, 1976. These included the Wall Street Journal, the Los Angeles Times, the New York Post, the New York Daily News, Parade Magazine, TV Guide, the Washington Post, the National Enquirer and McCall's.
Sherrell's advertising claims can be classed into two types of representations. The first class consists of comparisons between Sherrell products and other well-known perfumes. Sherrell advertised its perfumes as "Copy Cat Equivalent Fragrances," which it claimed were "copies of the world's most famous Perfumes and Colognes." One advertisement stated, "Copy Cat will save you 50% or more with superb perfume and cologne copies. Sherrell guarantees that only your checkbook will know the difference, and that the fragrances will last as long as the originals." Other advertisements claimed that Sherrell perfumes were "deluxe fragrance copies which are equal to the originals,""superb copies," and "faithful copies." In one advertisement, Sherrell asserted, "Sherrell's rare essential oils have been so carefully selected, blended and formulated that even the most sophisticated perfume expert would have great difficulty in telling `Ours' from the imported originals."
A second group of representations concerns the origin of the ingredients contained in Sherrell products. One Sherrell advertisement claimed that "Our fragrances are compounded and made by many of the same firms that make the famous name brands that are sold in department and cosmetic stores." A second advertisement stated that Sherrell's products "are created specifically for us by many of the same firms who make the original French and American perfumes you buy in your department stores."



Sherrell mainly dealt in knockoff fragrances of the more popular perfumes and fragrances for men, but they also produced some of their own fragrances such as their Earth Drops line in 1974.

The Earth Drop line was made up of nature's own single fragrances, blended from flowers, woods, and rare spices. The line consisted of the following:

  • Azalea
  • Bergamot
  • Carnation
  • Cedar Wood
  • Chypre
  • Eastern Musk
  • Earth
  • Fire
  • Frangipani
  • Freesia
  • Fresh lemon
  • Galbanum
  • Gardenia
  • Grass
  • Heliotrope
  • Honeysuckle
  • Hyacinth
  • Jasmine
  • Jonquil
  • Lavender
  • Lilac
  • Magnolia
  • Mandarine
  • Mignonette
  • Muguet
  • Oak Moss
  • Opoponax
  • Orange Blossom
  • Rain
  • Rose
  • Sandalwood
  • Sweet Pea
  • Tea Rose
  • Vanilla
  • Violet
  • Wild Strawberry








Sherrell Copy Cat Fragrances for Women:
  • No. 2 - L'Origan
  • No. 3 - Arpege
  • No. 4 - Chantilly
  • No. 6 - Bellodgia
  • No. 7 - Shalimar
  • No. 8 - Aphrodisia
  • No. 9 - Crepe de Chine
  • No. 10 - Tabu
  • No. 11 - Norell
  • No. 12 - Joy
  • No. 14 - My Sin
  • No. 15 - Cabochard
  • No. 16 - Wind Song
  • No. 17 - L’Air du Temps
  • No. 18 - Cachet
  • No. 19 - Blue Grass
  • No. 20 - Tigress
  • No. 21 - Nuit de Noel
  • No. 23 - Chanel No. 19
  • No. 24 - Miss Dior
  • No. 27 - Emeraude
  • No. 28 - Ma Griffe
  • No. 29 - Madame Rochas
  • No. 31 - Charlie
  • No. 32 - Youth Dew
  • No. 33 - White Shoulders
  • No. 34 - Givenchy III
  • No. 35 - L'Interdit
  • No. 36 - Chanel No. 5
  • No. 37 - Audace
  • No. 38 - Mitsouko
  • No. 39 - Via Lanvin
  • No. 40 - Bal a Versailles
  • No. 41 - Chamade
  • No. 42 - Chanel No. 22
  • No. 43 - Fidji
  • No. 44 - Estee
  • No. 45 - Femme
  • No. 46 - Replique
  • No. 47 - Maja
  • No. 48 - Y by Yves Saint Laurent
  • No. 49 - Jungle Gardenia
  • No. 50 - Calandre
  • No. 51 - Le De by Givenchy
  • Musk Oil
  • Civet Oil
  • Ambergris Oil



Sherrell Copy Cat Fragrances for Men:

No. M1 - Aramis
No. M2 - Arden for Men
No. M3 - Aphrodisia for Men
No. M4 - Bacchus
No. M5 - Bill Blass
No. M6 - Braggi
No. M7 - British Sterling
No. M8 - Brut
No. M9 - Canoe
No. M10 - Chanel Pour Monsieur
No. M11 - Eau Sauvage
No. M12 - English Leather
No. M13 - Equipage
No. M14 - Givenchy Gentlemen
No. M15 - Gravel
No. M16 - Guerlain Imperiale
No. M17 - Hai Karate
No. M18 - Jade East
No. M19 - Kanon
No. M20 - Lacoste
No. M21 - Monsieur Balmain
No. M22 - Monsieur Carven Vetiver
No. M23 - Monsieur Houbigant
No. M24 - Monsieur Lanvin
No. M25 - Monsieur Rochas
No. M26 - Moustache
No. M27 - Musk for Men
No. M28 - No. 4711
No. M29 - Old Spice
No. M30 - Pierre Cardin
No. M31 - Pub
No. M32 - Royal Bay Rhum
No. M33 - Royal Copenhagen
No. M34 - Royal Hawaiian
No. M35 - Russian Leather
No. M36 - Tabac Original
No. M37 - That Man
No. M38 - Woodhue for Men
No. M39 - Yardley Black Label
No. M40 - Yardley Original
No. M41 - Zizanie

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Parfumerie Brecher

December 12, 2017, 3:17 am
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Parfumerie Brecher was established by Paul Brecher in Pontoise at Paris around 1910. Jacques Ernest Mazurier became owner after 1918 moved company to 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris; affiliated with Benoit and Marquis de Elorza. Perfumes labeled ‘Aux Perfumeries Reunites’.






The perfumes of Brecher:
  • 1911 Mon Bouquet (Quintessence)
  • 1911 Royal Delices
  • 1911 Le Trefle Russe
  • 1911 Muguet
  • 1911 Violette
  • 1924 Sous de Charmille
  • 1925 Œillet
  • 1925 Chypre
  • 1925 Doux Réve
  • 1925 Le Temp des Fleurs
  • 1925 Le Vrai Narcisse
  • 1925 Les Fleurettes/Mes Fleurettes
  • 1925 Tabac Jaune
  • 1927 Bonjour Paris
  • 1927 Fumee Bleue
  • 1927 Soir de Lune
  • 1927 Narcisse
  • 1927 Jasmin
  • 1929 Amour de Folie
  • 1929 Lolita
  • 1929 Soir de Noel
  • 1930 En Promenade
  • 1930 L'An
  • Fidele a Toi

Bottles:



The bottle for Soir de Noel, is made up of black glass, decorated with abstract motifs of thick enamel in aqua, white and gold. The stopper has the same enamelling. The back side of the flacon is undecorated and features a paper label. The box shape is reminiscent of a Japanese inro case and is fitted with a silk tassel. The design is nearly identical to a bottle used for Shari by Langlois.



Brecher’s perfume Soir de Lune was presented in a cobalt blue glass flacon designed by Julien Viard and manufactured by Depinoix. Rare pressed glass bottle molded tinted midnight blue highlights of cylindrical section silver patina, half-spherical body decorated with 6 panels so Gothic arch and flowers reserves its floral cap 6 palmette decoration faceted belt.





The perfume Sous de Charmille (Under the Bower) was also created by Julien Viard and made by Depinoix.  a J. Viard bottle made by Depinoix, squatty bulbous clear glass tapering to a small neck & flattened blossom-form stopper, the sides enameled in shades of green & brown w/leaves.  


Parfumerie Brecher also had a line of solid perfumes made up of Bakelite starting in 1929, Amour de Folie, Jasmin, Narcisse, Chypre, Lilas, Rose, Violette and possibly others.



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    Electric Youth by Debbie Gibson c1989

    December 18, 2017, 4:58 am
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    Electric Youth by Debbie Gibson: Launched in 1989 in association with Revlon. Named after the best selling pop album and song.




    Debbie stated in a newspaper interview in 1990 that she helped pick the scent for the perfume. "I met with the people at Revlon and told them what perfumes I liked and what I wanted to be different about mine. It was real interesting to find out how that stuff was made. They have little bottles of everything that goes into it. It was fun saying, "I'll have a little more or less of that."

    Dutiful fans purchased $15 million worth of the scent within the first year.


    Fragrance Composition:

    So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance with a slight oriental effect for women.
    • Top notes: citrus, kiwi, peach, passion fruit
    • Middle notes: jonquil, jasmine, freesia
    • Base notes: amber, sandalwood, musk, vanilla

    The vintage juice was originally tinted pink, but over the years, it has turned an amber color due to the natural aging and oxidation process of the ingredients such as vanilla.


    Fate of the Fragrance:


    It was discontinued around 1995, but old stock was still being sold until around 1999. There is some stock being sold online which is a reformulated version that was relaunched in 2006. The new version is still quite pink in color, so if you are looking for the vintage, you may wish to find the bottles filled with the amber colored juice.





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    Wenck

    December 26, 2017, 11:11 pm
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    "The Wenck" Perfume Mfg Co. 77 Franklin Street, New York City.






    The perfumes of Wenck:

    • 1876 Acacia 
    • 1876 American Flowers 
    • 1876 Bloomingdale Bouquet 
    • 1876 Boston Rosebud 
    • 1876 Bouquet Alhambra 
    • 1876 Bouquet Everlasting 
    • 1876 Bouquet Caroline 
    • 1876 Bouquet Central Park 
    • 1876 Bouquet Florida 
    • 1876 Bouquet Fifth Avenue 
    • 1876 Bouquet Jockey Club 
    • 1876 Bouquet Madison Ave Park 
    • 1876 Bouquet Union League Club 
    • 1876 Bouquet Upper Ten 
    • 1876 Bouquet West End 
    • 1876 Bouquet Windsor Bouquet 
    • 1876 Bridal Bouquet 
    • 1876 Cassie 
    • 1876 Carnation Pink 
    • 1876 Cedrat 
    • 1876 California Flowers 
    • 1876 Centennial Bouquet 
    • 1876 Damask Rose 
    • 1876 Ess Bouquet 
    • 1876 Florida Water
    • 1876 Flowers of the West 
    • 1876 Flowers of the Woods 
    • 1876 Forget me not 
    • 1876 Frangipani 
    • 1876 Gardenia
    • 1876 Geranium Rose 
    • 1876 Gilsey House Bouquet 
    • 1876 Harvard Bouquet 
    • 1876 Hawthorn 
    • 1876 Heliotrope 
    • 1876 Honeysuckle 
    • 1876 Hyacinth 
    • 1876 Italian Flowers 
    • 1876 Jasmine 
    • 1876 Lavender Flowers 
    • 1876 Leland Bouquet 
    • 1876 Lily of the Valley 
    • 1876 Magnolia 
    • 1876 Marechale 
    • 1876 May Flowers 
    • 1876 Mignonette 
    • 1876 Mille Fleurs 
    • 1876 Mops Rose 
    • 1876 Musk 
    • 1876 Musk Rose 
    • 1876 Mousseline 
    • 1876 Neroli
    • 1876 New Mown Hay 
    • 1876 Newport Breeze 
    • 1876 Night Blooming Cereus 
    • 1876 Ocean Bouquet 
    • 1876 Ocean Spray 
    • 1876 Orange Blossoms 
    • 1876 Orange Portugal 
    • 1876 Oriental Drops 
    • 1876 Patchouly
    • 1876 Pond Lily 
    • 1876 Prairie Flowers 
    • 1876 Rose
    • 1876 Southern Flowers 
    • 1876 Spring Flowers
    • 1876 Stephanotis 
    • 1876 Sweet Briar 
    • 1876 Sweet Clover 
    • 1876 Sweet Pea 
    • 1876 Tea Rose 
    • 1876 Tropical Bouquet
    • 1876 Tuberose 
    • 1876 Verbena 
    • 1876 Vetiver 
    • 1876 Violet 
    • 1876 Warrin Bouquet 
    • 1876 White Rose 
    • 1876 Wild Flowers 
    • 1876 Wood Violet 
    • 1876 Yale Bouquet 
    • 1876 Ylang Ylang 
    • 1890 Fedora Cologne
    • 1890 Park Bouquet Cologne
    • 1890 Superior Bay Rum
    • 1890 Lavender Water
    • 1890 Violet Water
    • 1890 Opera Bouquet
    • 1890 Gilt Edge Cologne




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    Augusta Bernard et Cie

    January 2, 2018, 3:38 pm
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    Established by Augusta Bernard at 3 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore, Paris in 1927; couture house, like many of its contemporise it added fragrances to add value to its cloths, launched L’Heure Blonde in 1928; closed in 1934. Perfume labels will be marked with the name "augustabernard" as one word.



    The perfumes of Augusta Bernard:
    • 1928 L'Heure Blond
    • c1930 Parfum Mon Secret
    • c1930 Aveu d'Amour


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    Rumba by Balenciaga c1988

    January 10, 2018, 7:01 pm
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     Rumba by Balenciaga: launched in 1988. Created by Ron Winnegrad and Jean-Claude Ellena.

    This was Balenciaga's first fragrance launched after the take-over by Jacques Bogart. Bogart acquired Balenciaga in 1986.

    In 1996, Jacques Bogart SA, Paris  acquired Ted Lapidus. Fragrance brands included Ted Lapidus, Faconnable and Balenciaga. The Ted Lapidus company was owned by Altus, a former division of the Credit Lyonnais state-owned bank, which was spun off by the French government.





    Fragrance Composition:


    It is classified as a fruity-floral chypre fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: wild strawberry, peach, mirabelle plum, bergamot and basil
    • Middle notes:jasmine, rose, magnolia, tuberose, jasmine, heliotrope, honey, lily of the valley, carnation, orchid, orange blossom, raspberry, geranium and gardenia
    • Base notes: leather, amber, cypress, oak moss, vanilla, labdanum, sandalwood, cedarwood, Tonka bean, musk and styrax. 





    Bottles:

    Presented in a ribbed shaped bottle in the style of a Roman vase designed by Jacques Konckier.




    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Since 1996, Rumba has been made under the Ted Lapidus name.




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    Parfums Carrere

    September 9, 2017, 1:27 pm
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    Parfums Carrère was established by Maurice Bertrand Carrère at 45 rue Pierre-Charron, Paris in 1945. They only produced a small range of perfumes. However, the company was not commercially successful and subsequently, closed soon after.



    The fragrances of Parfums Carrère:
    • 1945 Signature
    • 1947 Vent Fou









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    Femme du Jour by Corday c1926

    October 17, 2017, 11:21 pm
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    Femme du Jour by Corday: launched in 1926. The name means "Woman of the Day" in French.



    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is an opulent fruity floral perfume, described as having a "spring-like daintiness". I have no published notes on this fragrance. I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.
    • Top notes: fruit notes
    • Middle notes: floral notes
    • Base notes:


    Cue, 1950:
    "Another appropriate perfume is Corday's "Femme du Jour"— for Mother is certainly the "woman of the day"— a blend of flower scents. Cordette purse flacon $2. Other sizes $4.50 to $8.50."

    Harper's Bazaar, 1956:
    " "Femme du Jour"— a serene and subtle interpretation of the fruits-with-flowers theme. By Corday."



    Period Advertisements:

    The Evening Leader, 1928:
    "CORDAY PRESENTS. A PRECIOUS PERFUME. A dream within a fragrance— rich—and splendid- and languorous. FEMME DU JOUR. (Woman of the Day). It's new!

    The Indianapolis News, 1928:
    "Corday's "Femme de Jour" Perfume, $1.50. This luxurious and alluring perfume is now available in this small purse size flacon of Corday's entrancing Femme du Jour"

    Modesto Bee, 1931:
    "Corday's Quand?, Orchidee Bleue, Toujours Moi, Femme de Jour, Le Pois de Senteur, $1.50 to $12.50."


    The New Yorker, 1949:
    "Your choice of these long-lasting French fragrances: Corday's TOUJOURS MOI or POSSESSION at $2.50; FAME, ROMANTIQUE, L'ARDENTE NUIT or FEMME du JOUR at $2.00; JET at $1.75. All prices plus tax."


    Bottles:

    The deluxe parfum bottle for Femme du Jour is made up of jet black opaque Baccarat crystal, with the name in gold serigraphy on the front. The small square glass stopper is entirely gilded. The bottle was Baccarat model number 625 created in 1926 and was also available in clear crystal. It was housed inside of a vibrant red silk presentation box adorned with gilded paper trim. This bottle was available in five sizes: 2 1/2 oz, 2 oz, 1 oz,  1/2 oz and 1/4 oz.

    • The 2 1/2 oz bottle retailed for$18.00in 1927.
    • The 2 oz bottle originally retailed for $16.50 in 1926. 
    • The 1 oz bottle retailed for $6.50 in 1927. 
    • The 1/2 oz size retailed for $3.50 in 1927.
    • The 1/4 oz size retailed for $1.50 in 1928.









    Mini perfume, stands 1 1/2" tall. Photo from worthpoint. c1940s-1950s.





    Fate of the Fragrance:

    Production halted because of WW2. Still being sold in 1956. Discontinued, date unknown.



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    IPBA Annual Convention 2018

    February 1, 2018, 8:04 am
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    It's getting to be that time of year again! The International Perfume Bottle Association's annual convention will be held in Tyson's Corner, VA from April 26th, 2018 to April 29th, 2018.


    A three-day extravaganza featuring the world's premiere exhibition and sale with the field's leading dealers featuring thousands of bottles and an internationally recognized auction. The convention draws together collectors and dealers from around the world.

    https://www.perfumebottles.org/upcoming-convention/3868/Annual-Convention-2018


    Last year, I was finally able to attend a convention, held in Princeton, NJ, and while I was only there for a few short hours, I got to take some photos of the exhibits and items for sale by our friendly members.















































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    Offenthal

    February 8, 2018, 1:09 pm
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    Offenthal of Paris.

    Lucienne Offenthal was a purse maker established at 24 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1925. Sold perfume under the "Pompadour" name in the 1920s - 1930s. Launched Ce Soir ou Jamais.

    The "Pompadour" shop was 78 Champs Elysées, Paris. (in 1929)








    vintage, c. 1924, "Ce Soir ou Jamais" perfume presentation from Offenthal, Paris. The champagne bottle sits in a French trunk box. There is a paper in the box that reads: "A Merry Christmas from David and Blum Inc." The cover was hinged originally, but now detached. Inside is satin with a few minor stains. The 3 1/2" high bottle has a label on the front that reads: "Ce Soir ou Jamais." Another label toward the base, but on the side of the bottle reads: "Offenthal, Paris." Images from worthpoint.

    David & Blum were glove importers from New York.

    The Glovers Review, Volume 29, 1929:
    "Andre David, Norman Blum and Joseph Isaacs, of David & Blum, Inc., glove importers of New York, together with Jacques Frankel, former merchandise manager with Franklin Simon & Company, have organized Pompadour Toiletries, sole American distributors of a French perfume, "Ce Soir ou Jamais."








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    Miss Zadig by Emilio Pucci c1973

    February 9, 2018, 5:39 am
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    Miss Zadig by Emilio Pucci: launched in 1973.


    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

    • Top notes:
    • Middle notes:
    • Base notes:


    In 1977, the Miss Zadig Eau Fraîche, a fresher interpretation of Miss Zadig was launched.




    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown. It was still sold in 1984.




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    Help! My Perfume Has Sediment or is Dark

    February 18, 2018, 7:56 pm
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    I have had the floaties in some of my old perfumes too, which is mainly due to the decomposition process of the perfume. If you collect vintage perfume you will notice some of the resins that collect in the bottom of the bottle.The sediment is actually the natural oils and essences coagulating as they start to break down. The alcohol and water inside will probably start to evaporate slowly over time and you will be left with a thick, syrupy concentrated perfume residue inside.

    This is normal, particularly if your scent contains natural materials. It is caused by the continued settling over time. It is a process that happens from the disintegration and oxidation of the natural perfume ingredients and evaporation of the alcohol/water mixture. Also some (some naturals in particular) aren't completely soluble in alcohol and or water and can make their way into bottles and settle after some time of remaining still.

    Natural absolutes such as jasmine absolute, which upon ageing DOES produce sediment. The book Modern Technology of Perfumes, Flavours & Essential Oils (2nd Edition) mentions that jasmine's "absolute darkens on ageing becoming deep red and deposits a greyish sediment following prolonged storage."

    True cold pressed bergamot oil can contain wax sediment and a dark green brown cloudy colour. Bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing it with alcohol. It becomes pale gray-yellow, forms a sediment which adheres firmly to the vessel and, on shaking, floats about in the form of flakes. After two days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to divide into flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking.

    Resins, gums and balsams will eventually ball up and float in the perfume too. Benzoin essential oil is resinous and thick and becomes more so as it ages, as does myrrh and frankincense. Essential oils produced from resins and woods tend to be thicker in viscosity. Some plant based ingredients such as patchouli, marigold, vetiver and vanilla also age into thickened resinous compounds. Some of these thicker oils can start to decompose in the perfume and coagulate, forming small dark colored balls as the water and alcohol in the perfume start evaporating. This is the beginning of the end of your perfume. If you start to notice these, you best try to finish your perfume before it completely evaporates into that syrup I mentioned before.

    So to find sediment in sealed vintage perfumes is going to be a natural occurrence due to the natural ingredients used.

    Now the clouding could also be natural breakdown of ingredients as well as I have had newer spray perfumes that I purchased factory sealed from authorized retailers, and somehow the clouding and or sediment process started without any tampering of the contents. Clouding in splash bottles can also mean that the perfume had water added to it to make the bottle appear more full, however, the clouding will not completely clear. If you have clouding in your spray bottles,check around the collar of the bottle to be sure it was not tampered with or removed and replaced at one time.

    In the case of factices (dummy) bottles, the sediment and floaties are actually particles of bacteria from the water used in the liquid. Bacteria will not grow in bottles that contain alcohol.


    With all the talk of perfumes changing color, I made a quick guide here to help explain why your scent has changed.

    Essential oils tend to darken with age via a process of oxidation. if you perfume has these components, it will absolutely darken as it ages. Some of these ingredients turn dark yellow, red or brown as they age.

    If an ingredient contains a a phenol as a component, and are highly subject to oxidation, thus it will darken, or redden, with age. A phenol odor is typically medicinal in character. Phenols can smell pungent and spicy such as eugenol, the characteristic odor of clove. Eugenol occurs in other natural oils such as ylang ylang, cinnamon and rose.

    These natural ingredients will darken with age:

    • absinthe
    • angelica
    • anise
    • arnica
    • basilic
    • caraway
    • celery
    • chamomile
    • cinnamon bark
    • clove bud oil
    • estragole
    • eugenol
    • expressed bergamot
    • ginger
    • jasmine absolute
    • juniper
    • karo-karunde
    • labdanum
    • lavender
    • lemon
    • mint
    • myrrh
    • neroli
    • orange blossom
    • pennyroyal
    • pepper
    • peppermint
    • pimento
    • rhodium
    • rosewood
    • rue
    • sage
    • sandalwood
    • sassafras 
    • spearmint
    • spikenard
    • sweet marjoram
    • tansy
    • thyme
    • valerian
    • vanilla
    • ylang ylang




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    Graffiti by Roberto Capucci c1963

    February 20, 2018, 5:56 am
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    Graffiti by Roberto Capucci: launched in 1963.





    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre fragrance for women. Described as "airy, green and fresh."
    • Top notes: green notes, aldehydes, green tea, wild strawberry, papaya, apple, melon, pineapple
    • Middle notes: nutmeg, rose, violet, jasmine
    • Base notes: patchouli, oakmoss

    Vogue, 1969:
    "Sophisticated, GRAFFITI endures, constantly evoking "the way it was" ... or the way you want it to be. GRAFFITI by Roberto Capucci . Only at the finest perfume counters. Perfume $ 30 to $ 5. Made, bottled, packaged and sealed in France. PARFUMS CAPUCCI PARIS. Available only at select stores "  




    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1981.

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