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Poujol

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Poujol was established by Gustav K. Poujol. The imported French perfume line was carried by Mandel Brothers in the USA.

In addition to perfumes, sachets, soap, talcum powder, toilet waters, Poujol also made cosmetics including face powder (and compacts), lipstick,  rouge, cleansing tissues.

Gustav Poujol died on February 3, 1913 at the age of 78 years old at his home at 520 Court Street, Reading, PA, following complications from an illness lasting over several months. He was born in France in 1835 and first came to America in 1868, settling first in Philadelphia and later resettled in Reading about five years later. He was a naturalized citizen of the United States. For 43 years he was employed by the TA Willson Spectacle Company and only just retired three years from active work before his death. He was also noted as a perfumer. He was survived by his widow, a son, Charles H. Poujol, of Hunt, MO, and a daughter, Mrs. Chester Gery of Reading. Other relatives included: Mrs. George Beal of Mt. Penn, PA; Mrs. James Prior, Trenton, NJ; and Mrs. Jacob Greenbaum of Lorraine. His funeral service was held at his late residence and the funerary sermon was preached by Rev. HC Lilly. Poujol had a private interment in an Alsace cemetery.

Poujol's perfumes were still being sold in 1935. I *think* that perhaps after Gustav Poujol passed away, the company may have been purchased by Mandel Brothers and became a subsidiary as I started seeing it called "Mandel's Poujol"perfume in early 1930s newspaper advertisements.








The perfumes of Poujol:
  • 1923 Chypre
  • 1923 Ambre Noir
  • 1923 Origan d'Or
  • 1923 Heliotrope
  • 1923 Jolie Fleurs
  • 1923 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1923 Honeysuckle
  • 1923 Wallflower
  • 1923 Jockey Club
  • 1923 Charme de Poujol 
  • 1923 Trefle
  • 1923 Oriental Bouquet
  • 1923 Muguet
  • 1923 Crabapple
  • 1923 Violette
  • 1923 Rose
  • 1923 Mimosa
  • 1923 Lilac
  • 1923 Jasmin
  • 1923 Ambre
  • 1923 Narcisse/Narcissus
  • 1925 Stilligan
  • 1927 Orchidee
  • 1929 Sweet Pea
  • 1929 Magnolia
  • 1929 Gardenia
  • 1934 A
  • 1934 B
  • 1934 C







The bottles shown in the above advertisements were discontinued for the new style shown below.






Calisher and Company Perfumes

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AB Calisher & Co. was located at 112 Franklin Street New York. Established in 1893 by Aaron B. Calisher, Joseph H. Calisher and Nathan Calisher.






Soap Gazette and Perfumer, Volumes 19-20, 1917:



His obituary in the Soap Gazette and Perfumer, Volumes 19-20, 1917: 
"Aaron Calisher was born in Richmond, VA, in 1857, and after receiving his education at the public schools of that city, he went to Chicago, where he had the beginning of his commercial career. In 1892, twenty-five years ago, he came to New York and engaged in the perfume manufacturing business in co-partnership with his brothers under the firm name of Calisher & Co, remaining active in the concern up to the time of his death. the deceased was a prominent member of the Manufacturing Perfumers' Association, in the affairs of which he took a great deal of interest. In 1910, at the 16th Annual Convention of the Association, he was unanimously elected treasurer, which office he filled with marked ability and credit, and the fact of his having been honored with re-election to the post since that time at each succeeding meeting, bears eloquent testimony of the high esteem in which he was held by the members and their due appreciation of his services. Mr. Calisher also took an active interest in Masonry and many other social institutions. he is survived by his wife and a daughter. Funeral services were conducted from his late residence."


  


The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, Volume 16, 1922:
"Oakley & Co with offices at 399 Fifth avenue New York City which was adjudged bankrupt November 29, expects to be reorganized and to continue business under the former management in the near future according to a statement of Joseph H. Calisher, sole owner. Bankruptcy proceedings were brought by three creditors of the company and Julius Klein 438 Broadway, New York City, was appointed receiver. Joseph H. Calisher, sole owner of the company, has been with the concern for forty three years. Since the death of his brothers AB Calisher and Nathan Calisher three and four years ago, Joseph Calisher has been in active charge of the affairs of the company. Mr. Calisher reports that one of the causes which led to the involuntary petition for bankruptcy was the fact that Government officials lost affidavits for alcohol withdrawal permits and as a result of this it was impossible for the company to obtain alcohol for three weeks which made it impossible for the concern to fulfill its Christmas orders. The assets and liabilities are not stated as the schedules have not yet been filed. It is expected that the receivership will be ended early in the new year. It is also reported by Mr. Calisher that the company will continue under the old management as a meeting of the creditors is to be held soon and as a composition agreement satisfactory to them is likely to be made."
The perfumes of Calisher:
  • 1903 Coronet
  • 1903 Dew of Roses
  • 1903 Dew of Violets
  • 1903 Rose de Perse
  • 1903 Sweet Marie Cologne
  • 1903 Violet Esterel
  • 1903 Wood Violet
  • 1903 Jockey Club
  • 1903 White Lilac
  • 1908 Violet Divine
  • 1908 Cut Roses
  • 1908 Cut Violets
  • 1908 Fresh Roses
  • 1908 Gloriana
  • 1908 Princess Perfume
  • 1908 Bouquet Jeunesse
  • 1910 Violet Concentree

Laura Biagiotti by Laura Biagiotti c1982

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Laura Biagiotti by Laura Biagiotti: launched in 1982. This was the first Laura Biagiotti perfume, it was later known as Fiori Bianchi (White Flowers) in 1991.

This fragrance was manufactured by Ellen Betrix and distributed in the United States by New York-based Accents and Essentials.



The launch party for the European introduction was held at Biagiotti's 14th century castle outside Rome with about 350 guests in attendance. To introduce the fragrance to the USA, a launch party was held in at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City, and the Italian designer created hats laden with white flowers representative of those found in the perfume itself. The fragrance was to be sold at a select number of stores in Europe and the same approach was being taken when it was brought to the US. However, by 1984, Biagiotti was still in negotiations with American cosmetic distributors.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh white floral fragrance for women.  

  • Top notes: Anatolian honeysuckle, lily, Sicilian mandarin
  • Middle notes: white orchid, ylang ylang, Indian tuberose, Italian jasmine, Bulgarian rose, French lily of the valley
  • Base notes: Java vetiver, cedar, sandalwood and oakmoss




Fate of the Fragrance:


This perfume has been discontinued for many years and can be very hard to find.

Red by Geoffrey Beene c1976

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Red by Geoffrey Beene: launched in 1976.





When House Beautiful magazine asked "Why a color for a fragrance name?" Beene replied "My fragrances are as much fashion statements as the clothes I design. I named my men's fragrance 'Grey Flannel' because a grey flannel suit on a man has a special aura of success. Red is for women who like to wear red- I think every woman feels special in a red dress." He also mentioned that "Simply because, having studied chromatics, color and it's effects. I find it both feminine and sensuous..and a color that certainly arouses the senses."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as fresh mossy-aldehydic chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh, citrus, spicy top, followed by a fresh radiant floral heart, resting on a mossy base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, citrus oils basil, peach, bay
  • Middle notes: carnation, melon, lily, cyclamen, lily of the valley, jonquil, jasmine, rose, narcissus
  • Base notes: cedar, amber, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, oakmoss, labdanum, musk


Bottles:


The parfum was presented in a thick paperweight style round crystal bottle designed by Pierre Dinand in 1978. The stopper was made of frosted glass, square shaped with rounded corners, and molded with the perfume's name in the center. The bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval with plastic components supplied by Mayet.

The parfum retailed at $100 an ounce, which at the time was the most expensive American fragrance ever released. The first 500 bottles were numbered and housed in red lacquered wooden boxes.



A red glass, fluted bottle with a tasseled cap which held 1/4 oz of Parfum, was the perfect size to carry in the purse.

Red was available in the following:

  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 4 oz Cologne
  • 2 oz Cologne
  • 2 oz Eau de Toilette 




In 1981, the Red Bath Collection was released.


The perfume was distributed under Beene's own company Epocha Distributors, Inc. starting in 1977, which was created to sell his fragrances. But by 1980, Epocha was acquired by Jacqueline Cochran, Inc (a division of American Cyanamid/Shulton) and the fragrance will be marked in association with that name.




Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued in 1982.

New York Magazine, 1988:
"Like other designers who tried to maximize the potential of their names, Beene got involved in numerous licensing deals... Even one of the most basic licensing products, women's perfume, didn't work out. Both Geoffrey Beene and Red were failures. "A Beene scent is a tricky one to market," says one fashion executive. "He's hardly going to pop up on TV, tan and suave like Oscar (de la Renta), with a perfume bottle in his hand."


Parfums d'Anjou

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Parfums d'Anjou of Paris, France.








Their perfumes Nuits Folles, Pour la Danse, and Paradis were housed in Baccarat crystal bottles.
  • 1920 Rêve d'Amour
  • 1933 Nuits Folles
  • 1933 Pour la Danse
  • 1933 Paradis
  • 1935 Viens
  • 1935 Toi et Moi
  • 1935 L'Heure de Minuit
  • 1937 Le Gui de Noël




A different company named Anjou was established by Ernest Oswalt (founder of the Campana company, creator of the Campana Balm). You may also find some boxes marked with "Industria Argentina" as there was a factory in Argentina as well.

The perfumes of Anjou:
  • 1940 - Apropos (a typical chypre perfume)
  • 1943 - Devastating
  • 1952 - Side Glance ( a floral bouquet perfume)
  • 1954 - Tai-Pe
  • 1956 - Flor de Manzano
  • 1956 - Por Siempre Ambar
  • 1956 - Ninoska
  • 1957 - Celestial
  • 1958 - Malmaison



Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld c1975

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Chloe by Parfums (Karl) Lagerfeld: launched in 1975. Created by W. Pit Hugelmann/IFF/ Betty Busse.





Fragrance Composition:


 So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity, green top, followed by a exotic floral heart, layered over a sensual, feminine base. Reportedly made up of 178 oils and rare essences.
  • Top notes: green notes, honeysuckle, orange blossom, lilac, coconut, bergamot, aldehydes and peach 
  • Middle notes: hyacinth, Cormoran ylang-ylang, orris, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, narcissus, tuberose, lily of the valley, jonquil, coriander, carnation 
  • Base notes: patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, musk, cedar and benzoin


Bottles:

The parfum was housed inside of a sensuous oval flacon fitted with a sculpted and frosted calla lily stopper in the Lalique manner. The flacon was designed by Joe Messina. It was housed inside of a delicate peach colored box with white print.  It won the Fragrance Foundation Award for Packaging.


Flanker Scents:


The original Chloe spawned some siblings scents, called flankers.


In 1992, Chloe Narcisse was launched and presented in a clear bottle with a stylized flower bud opaque cap designed by Denise Paglina. Created by Betty Busse of IFF in association with Parfums Lagerfeld and Elizabeth Arden. This vintage perfume has been discontinued. It is classified as a crisp fruity floral-oriental fragrance for women. It was available as Parfum, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, and Body Lotion.
  • Top notes: violet, peach, pineapple, frangipani, orange blossom and apricot
  • Middle notes: gardenia, carnation, marigold, calendula, rose and jasmine and narcissus 
  • Base notes: exotic spices, cedar, vanilla, musk, sandalwood

In 1993, Chloe Fleur de Narcisse was launched in association with Parfums Lagerfeld. Created by Anne Flipo as an eau de cologne. It is classified as a fresh fruity floral fragrance for women. This was discontinued by 1994.
  • Top notes: black currant, watery notes, peach and pineapple
  • Middle notes: mimosa, iris, narcissus, gardenia and carnation
  • Base notes: leather, white tobacco, oakmoss, vanilla and musk


In 1995, Chloe Innocence was released and presented in a milky glass bottle by designed by Fabian Baron. The perfume was created by Nathalie Lorson, in association with Parfums Lagerfeld. This vintage perfume was discontinued around 2000 or so. It is classified as a fresh floral white flower fragrance for women. 
  • Top notes: apple, bergamot, peach and water hyacinth
  • Middle notes: geranium, jasmine, rose, freesia, honeysuckle headspace, lily of the valley and violet 
  • Base notes: hawthorn, orris, cedarwood, vetiver, heliotrope headspace and musk


Fate of the Fragrance:


Chloe was originally produced and distributed by Bethco Fragrances, Inc. of New York, New York (a subdivision of Elizabeth Arden-Faberge, Inc). Bethco operated as the upper end American producer of Chloe, Lagerfeld and Fendi perfumes. Bottles will be found with labels with the Bethco names.


In 1989, Unilever purchased Bethco Fragrances, Inc, but the labels will still be branded with the Bethco name.

Around 1990, Elizabeth Arden organized a subdivision, Parfums International, Ltd, to control the other Unilever owned fragrance brands (Lagerfeld, Chloe, Fendi, Elizabeth Taylor, Decadence, etc). These labels will be marked with the Parfums International, Ltd name.

Original Chloe fragrance and flankers:
  • 1975 Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld
  • 1992 Chloe Narcisse
  • 1993 Chloe Fleur de Narcisse 
  • 1995 Chloe Innocence

In 2005, the brand was acquired by Coty Prestige. In 2007, Chloe was totally reformulated by Michel Almairac and Amandine Marie into an entirely new fragrance (in Eau de Parfum strength) and relaunched in a newly designed bottle. These labels will now be branded with the Parfums Chloe and Coty Prestige names. This version was discontinued.



The Chloe fragrance was reformulated in 2008 and released as both Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette in non-floral bottles, in 2009, the pure Parfum version was introduced. This is an entirely different fragrance than the 1975 version.

If you are looking for the original vintage version, make sure your box or label mentions the "Bethco" or the "Parfums International" name.



New edition and flankers:
  • 2005 Chloe Collection 2005 (limited edition)
  • 2007 Chloe Eau de Parfum (disc)
  • 2008 Chloe Lisy (disc)
  • 2008 Chloe Eau de Parfum (reformulated)
  • 2008 Chloe Eau de Toilette (disc)
  • 2009 Chloe Eau de Toilette (disc)
  • 2009 Chloe Eau de Parfum Intense (disc)
  • 2009 Chloe Parfum
  • 2010 Chloe Intense Collect'Or (limited edition packaging/disc)
  • 2011 Chloe Rose Edition (limited edition packaging/disc)
  • 2012 L'Eau de Chloe
  • 2013 Chloe Roses De Chloe
  • 2015 Chloe Eau de Toilette (reformulated)
  • 2016 Chloe Fleur de Parfum
  • 2017 Chloé Absolu de Parfum



Chloe Collection, a limited edition scent, was launched in 2005. Created by Clement Gavarry and Carlos Benaim. It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women. This is discontinued.
  • Top notes: passion fruit, pear, tuberose
  • Middle notes: gardenia, tuberose
  • Base notes: woods, birch, musk

In 2007, Chloe Eau de Parfum was created by Amandine Marie and Michel Almairac of Robertet, in association with Coty. This version is discontinued, but reformulated and relaunched in 2008 in both Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette. In 2009, the pure Parfum was introduced. The Eau de Toilette was also discontinued but reformulated and relaunched in 2009.
  • Top notes: peony, lychee, freesia
  • Middle notes: magnolia, lily of the valley and rose
  • Base notes: Virginia cedar and amber


Introduced in 2008, Chloe Lisy, a floral fragrance for women, was created by Michel Almairac and Amandine Clerc-Marie. Available as parfum extrait in a 15ml size purse spray in a leather case. This too is discontinued and can be hard to find.
  • Top notes: pink peony, litchi and freesia
  • Middle notes: magnolia, rose and lily of the valley
  • Base notes: cedar, honey and amber


In 2009, Chloe Eau de Parfum Intense was launched. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. This is discontinued.
  • Top notes: pink peppercorn, freesia, litchi, pink peony 
  • Middle notes: magnolia, rose petals, lily of the valley 
  • Base notes: sandalwood, tonka, amber, honey, cedar wood
  

In 2009, Chloe Eau de Toilette, was launched.  By 2015, this Eau de Toilette was discontinued, but reformulated and relaunched again with additional notes of bergamot, rose, magnolia and gardenia.
  • Top notes: mandarin, melon 
  • Middle notes: freesia, rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, iris

 
For 2010, a collector bottle was released, Chloe Intense Collect'Or. The limited edition bottle was tied with a golden ribbon.
  • Top notes: pink peppercorn, freesia, litchi, pink peony 
  • Middle notes: magnolia, rose petals, lily of the valley 
  • Base notes: sandalwood, tonka, amber, honey, cedar wood

2011 saw the release of the eau de parfum, Chloe Rose Edition, in which the bottle was simply tied with a limited edition bright pink bow for Spring.
  • Top notes:  peony, lychee, freesia 
  • Middle notes: rose, magnolia, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: Virginia cedar, amber


2012 brought L'Eau de Chloe, an eau de toilette, classified as a floral chypre fragrance and created by Michel Almairac, 
  • Top notes: citron, grapefruit, peach, bergamot, aldehydes
  • Middle notes: distilled rosewater, rose, violet, freesia, jasmine, lily of the valley, magnolia, peony
  • Base notes: patchouli, cedar, amber, labdanum, oakmoss, white musk

  

For 2013, Roses de Chloe was introduced,a floral fragrance for women. 
  • Top notes:  bergamot, tarragon, lemon, lychee 
  • Middle notes: damask rose, magnolia, cedar, apple, black currant, peach
  • Base notes: white musk, woody notes, amber

The new version of the Chloe Eau de Toilette was launched in 2015 and differs from the 2009 version.
  • Top notes:  bergamot, magnolia, lemon  
  • Middle notes: white rose, gardenia, rose
  • Base notes:  musk, cotton flower
  
In 2016, Chloe Fleur de Parfum was released.  Created by Michel Almairac and Mylene Alran.
  • Top notes:  bergamot, verbena, grapefruit
  • Middle notes: rose, cherry blossom, blackcurrant, peach
  • Base notes:  white musk, rice, cedar
  
Chloé Absolu de Parfum arrived in 2017, as a floral oriental composition created by Michel Almairac. A limited edition to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the relaunched Chloe from 2007.
  • Top notes: damask rose
  • Middle notes: Grasse rose, patchouli
  • Base notes: vanilla







Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt c1981

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Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt: launched in 1981. Created by Sophia Grojsman.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet floral fragrance for women. It begins with a light flowery top, followed by a multi-faceted floral heart, resting on a sweet, powdery, oriental base.
  • Top notes: mimosa, aldehydes, bergamot, green notes, pineapple, orange blossom, lavender
  • Middle notes: honey, marigold, coriander, pimento, jasmine, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, carnation, orris
  • Base notes: Tolu balsam, oakmoss, cinnamon, civet, musk, opoponax, vetiver, sandalwood and vanilla

Vanderbilt was composed of the following: Hedione, methyl ionone, heliotropin, vanillin, musk ketone, Iso E Super for woody nuances , allyl amyl glycolate combined with allyl cyclohexyl propionate to achieve a fruity green note.


Bottles:


Presented in a flaçon with a swan motif designed by Bernard Kotyuk after a design by Lalique. The Gloria Vanderbilt logo is a swan and it appeared on the designer jeans that were licensed by the Murjani Corporation in 1979. The stopper of the parfum flacon features the swan logo, on eau de toilette bottles the swan image is molded into the glass.

 Vintage version photos below:







Fate of the Fragrance:


Originally sold by Warner Cosmetics and acquired by Cosmair in 1984 (L'Oréals licensed distributor in the United States). Cosmair became L'Oréal USA in 2000.

Vanderbilt was reformulated at some time, probably in the mid 2000s into a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lavender, green notes, neroli and pineapple
  • Middle notes: carnation, orris, jasmine, orange blossom, rose, tuberose and ylang-ylang
  • Basenotes: cinnamon, civet, musk, opoponax, vetiver, sandalwood and vanilla


Société Parisienne de Verreries

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SPV (Société Parisienne de Verreries/Parisian Society of Glass) at Orly. Abbreviated to 'SPV'; established by Louis de Beaune at Boulevard Auguste Blanqui in Paris in 1889; glass manufacturer, merged with C Depinoix in 1936




c1926





Ombre Rose by JC Brosseau c1981

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(Rose Shadow) Launched in 1982 in USA
In association with Parfums Jean Patou: created by Françoise Caron of Roure Perfumers;



Fragrance Composition:


It is classified as a rich powdery-floral-oriental aldehyde fragrance for women, reportedly made of 100 different essences. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by a woody floral heart, resting on a sweet powdery base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, geranium, honey, Brazilian rosewood and peach
  • Middle notes: iris, Virginia cedar, sandalwood, rose, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley, Italian orris, vetiver
  • Base notes: new mown hay, vanilla, musk, heliotrope, cinnamon, tonka bean

House & Garden, 1981:
"Ombre Rose is a hauntingly feminine fragrance created by designer Jean-Charles Brosseau. The scent is sophisticated, at the same time possessing a fragile, powder-like freshness. Lily of the valley, honey, iris, vanilla, peach, and woody undertones are all a part of the medley. The lead crystal bottle is a limited edition work of art- black for the perfume, translucent for the eau de toilette - adorned with a frosted floral motif in relief. Perfume $150 an ounce. A Bergdorf Goodman, Frost Bros, Sakowitz, Robinson's, Marshall Field."


New York Magazine, 1984:
"OMBRE ROSE When a fragrance is this memorable, so is the gift. Ombre Rose . . . designed by Jean-Charles Brosseau. A fragrance so special it virtually belongs in the palm of your hand, extended to her. From the exquisite crystal bottle to the distinctively warm, floral scent itself, this is a gift that says it all. The parfum in black crystal, 1 ounce, $150. Eau de Toilette, 2.5 oz, $35."

The Sydney Morning Herald, 1986: 
“Ombre Rose, a truly heavenly perfume from Jean-Charles Brosseau Parfums of Paris. Much more than just a simple rose perfume, it is a rose perfume with mystery, with a hundred hidden notes that are revealed as it warms your skin. The unforgettable Ombre Rose fragrance fulfills the promise of its name...shadowy or dark rose...with the warmth of honey, vanilla and iris...the tenderness of ylang ylang, lily of the valley and peach...the deep notes of wood to give it lingering qualities. The Ombre Rose containers are as heavenly as the perfume they contain, lucent, hand-blown crystal bottles decorated with a romantic frosted flower design. As a very special introduction to Ombre Rose, this week at David Jones, you receive a miniature crystal bottle of the parfum concentrate (5ml, valued at $90) as a gift with any purchase from the Ombre Rose collection (except single soap) and we will have Ombre Rose consultants on hand at our perfume counters as well. The 30ml Cologne Spray is $35, the 90ml is $85; the 75ml Eau de Toilette is $99.50, the spray is $119; the 7.5ml parfum extract is $135.”


Bottle:


Presented in an unusual hexagonal flacon of black or frosted crystal with a floral bas-relief, modelled after the 1920 bottle design for the fragrance 'Le Narcisse Bleu' by Mury.

The original 1980s Parfum was housed in an opaque black glass bottle and came in three sizes:

  • 1 oz
  • 0.5 oz 
  • 0.25 oz
A mini size of 5ml Parfum was available by 1985 in clear crystal with plastic cap, usually in gift sets or in single boxes like this one:





The Eau de Toilette was available in several sizes:
  • 2.5 oz Splash
  • 6 oz Splash
  • 1 oz Spray
  • 2.5 oz Spray
  • 6 oz Spray

The boxes for the original version was white with black such as the one below.




By 1984, Eau de Cologne in a 1 oz Natural Spray was introduced in a black canister. In 1987 the 3 oz Eau de Cologne Spray was available.


La Collection Pour le Bain:


By 1986, Ombre Rose could be had in various bath & body products: body lotion, body cream, soap, talc, bath powder, and shower gel.





Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued.

Alfin was distributing the Ombre Rose fragrances since around 1982. During 1993, Alfin terminated the licensing and distribution of Ombre Rose and Ombre Bleue. All rights and inventory to Ombre Rose and Ombre Bleue were sold in July 1993 for $3,5000,000.

Jean Philippe's French subsidiary, Inter Parfums, SA, acquired the license and inventory of Ombre Rose from Alfin. Jean Philippe regarded the Ombre Rose brand as complementing its existing distribution channels without incurring significantly greater costs.

So if your packaging is marked with the Alfin name, your bottle dates between 1982-1993 and Inter Parfums, after 1993.


In 2002, Ombre Rose was reformulated and relaunched as Ombre Rose L'Original.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, geranium, honey, rosewood and peach
  • Middle notes: ylang-ylang, lily of the valley, orris and geranium
  • Base notes: new mown hay, Virginia cedar, vanilla and sandalwood


Marie Earle Perfumes

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Established in 5th Avenue New York in 1910.



"How the Marie Earle Preparations Came to America. 
Not so long ago it was necessary to go to Paris to consult Marie Earle. And many women to whom money meant little and beauty much went to Paris for the privilege. Opinions might differ about the several great couturiers, but the beau monde was agreed upon the supremacy of one specialist. If one desired youth and loveliness, the order to one's chauffeur was The Salon de Marie Earle. Several great American shops at the request of various women of society's inner circle installed Marie Earle's Preparations. 
Then Marie Earle herself came to New York, upon the invitation of one of her clients and remained to establish a Salon. At first, she was here for only a brief season annually, now her personal services are available to American women throughout most of the year. 
If you would discover why women who can make unlimited choice, have for years, entrusted all responsibility for their continued youthfulness and charm to Marie Earle, you have, but to try her treatments, either at her Salons, or at home, and her incomparable Preparations. These are just a few of her important products."

  • CREME ANTI-RIDES meets every requirement of the skin. It supplies perfect nourishment and agrees with skin of every type. Apply it first as a cleanser - it dissolves every impurity that distends the pores. Then pat on fresh Creme and allow it to remain as long as it is convenient. It fills out wrinkles and keeps the flesh youthfully smooth and firm. $1.90, $3.85, $5.75. 
  • LAIT D'AMANDES a refreshing tonic cooling and slightly astringent which softens and whitens the skin. Spray it on the face and neck after cleansing the skin with Creme Anti Rides. It allays irritation and refines the texture of the complexion. $2.25, $4.50. 
  • HUILE STIMULANT a splendid stimulus to a sluggish or aging skin apply it always inconjunction with Creme Anti-Rides. It sends the blood dancing to the surface cells and starts a vigorous free circulation correcting pallor looseness of skin and many blemishes which result from languid tissues. Especially good in winter when cold atrophies the skin cells. $5.75 
  • ELIXIR MARIE EARL in antiseptic lotion which bleaches tan and freckles quickly and harmlessly and softens and smooths the skin. $7. 
  • EMAIL 77 an exquisite liquid powder. Made of the finest imported French ingredients delicately perfumed. It is unrivalled as a beautifier for evening use and may he used with great effectiveness in the daytime also. Absolutely revents sunburn conceals tan an all blemishes. Waterproof does not rub. $8.75. 
  • CREME DE MOELLE a rich fattenlng cream to develop the contours of neck and bust. A remarkable flesh builder It transforms a thin scrawny neck into one that is plump and white and youthful. Pat it on the skin after cleansing. To quicken the effectiveness leave some on the skin overnight. $2.90, $5.75. 
  • BLANC GRAS. Finishing Paste, fragrant of bride's roses. Apply before powdering to make the skin white and of daintier texture. Protects; makes powder adhere perfectly. White or Rachel $3.75. A powder of superb quality. 
  • PERFECTION POUDRE DE RlZ imparts a cool velvety look.Finest texture, spreads evenly, adheres well. Clair, Blanche Rachel $3.50. 
  • FEUILLES DE ROSE, Liquid rouge , a natural youthful tint. Transparent, invisible, lasting. Light or Dark $1.75 $3.50. 
  • COSMETIQUE LIQUIDE, Eye cosmetic , gives lashes and brows a dark, interesting color, shadows, deepens the eyes, nourishes brows and lashes $2.50. 
  • LES GOUTTES MERVEILLEUSES, Eye Drops, an excellent eyewash; relieves irritations, clears the eyes of redness. Splendid after motoring. $2.45, $4.90

"Many, many women have the same inward grace the same subtleties of reliiieiiieiit which mark their social leaders.But with them this charm is both their instinct and their friends tell them this hidden in a diffidence while with the society leaders a poiseful confidence in perfect grooming sets the mind at ease and allows a constant emanation of the radiance from within. It has been the privilege and distinction of Marie Earle to bring this clear physical expression of inward grace to many leaders in the highest social circles of America. Her treatments for preserving the freshness and beauty of the skin have prolonged many a social reign."
"The diva, magnificent, dynamic, acclaimed by all the world. What makes her power? So many others just miss being great. With all the elements of success they still lack the spark that fires a personality with magnetism. They have not poise, assurance, confidence in their ability to charm. It is that which sets a woman apart from mediocrity. Marie Earle has helped many famous women to that final important detail of distinction. By grooming by subtle emphasis here and magical there. Marie Earle transforms shy graces into full charms makes mere wistful prettiness kindle to beauty. 
The Marie Earle Treatments preserve and the sweetness the smoothness and the shell like bloom of fresh young skin. Her Preparations answer every need of the most fastidious toilet. Every skin needs these important to keep it lovely."


"Marie Earle" written in the handwriting of Juanita Ebbsmith, a member of the original firm of Marie Earle, constitutes the ... Claims use since 1916 on bath salts, since 1922 on perfume, and since spring of 1901 on all balance of goods. "



Launched a range of fragrances, cosmetics, skincare, soap and bath tablets between 1920 and mid 1940's. In 1928, they acquired the Rallet Perfume Company. The company used Wheaton bottles for its perfumes. Some of the Marie Earle cosmetics and powders came in bakelite containers. Acquired by Coty, Inc in 1928.





Harper's Bazaar, 1930:
"Marie Earle is showing at her charming Salon the latest imports of the Rallet perfumes in green pin-seal boxes, with a new scent, "Maidou," added to the popular quartet.


The perfumes of Marie Earle:

-->
1923Secret des Fleurs
1928Rallet No. 1(an aldehydic perfume)
1930Maidou
1930Arc de Triomphé
1930Legion d'Honneur
1937Roseraie
1940Redbud
1940Soufflé
1940Ballerina(a floral oriental perfume)
1942Tropicolor
Tropic Flower Cologne



Marie Earle Bath soap in Jasmine
Marie Earle Compressed bath tablets for travellers in Pine, Nirvana, or Rose


Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 46, 1940:
"MARIE EARLE Marie Earle has introduced a new eau de cologne which is called "Ballerina." Companion items include Ballerina face powder, lipstick, rouge, eye shadow and mascara."

Glass Packer, 1946:
"BALLERINA, a new and very feminine fragrance by Marie Earle, comes in a charming gift package which will appeal to young and old alike. The gold-troughed bottle with delicate glass stopper rests inside a white satin ballet slipper. And the light, lovely odor of the perfume will bring back memories of your favorite ballerina of Swan Lake and Les Sylphides. The box, white and gold with a gold lock."

Motion Picture, 1947:
"Marie Earle Ballerina, lilting, sophisticated. Comes tucked in dainty satin ballet slipper. $30 up."

The New Yorker, 1951:
"Marie Earle's Ballerina comes in bath oil, six tiny bottles of it strung together like Alpinists and stuffed inside a wand covered with frosty silver paper and a spiral of gold paper; $3."




Zarolia by Maitland Philipe c1981

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 Zarolia perfume was launched in 1981 by award winning designer Maitland Philipe (Philip Maitland-Kraft) and distributed by T. Barclay Perfumes Inc..


Fragrance Composition:



Zarolia is classified as a rich, exotic floral perfume for women, it's fragrance was bright and soft, with an emphasis on Bulgarian rose,jasmine and lily of the valley.

  • Top notes: fruity notes, citrus, aldehydes
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: musk, oakmoss, sandalwood, amber


Bottles:

The 1/4 oz bottle of pure parfum was created for the 7th anniversary of the perfume's launch and was part of a promotional campaign for the brand that included $4,000 worth of diamonds. The promotion promised that some of the 1/4 oz bottles would have a genuine diamond inside the bottle. Sizes ranged from 1/4ct to a full 1 ct and there was a 15% chance that your bottle could have a diamond inside. The diamonds were only packaged in these tear-dropped shaped bottles with the frosted glass plume stoppers which was introduced in the fall of 1986. These bottles retailed for $55 at the time.

A 22 oz Art Deco inspired bottle of the perfume retailed for $4,00 in 1983.

 The rarer versions of the Zarolia perfume bottles are the blue and silver art glass limited edition amber art glass glass bottles made by Tiffany glass artist John Gilvey, it features an adaptation of a peacock's plume done in gold and silver and melted into the glass giving an iridescent effect. These were fitted with atomizers and 1 oz of parfum was contained in one of these bottles retailed for $425 in 1982.

An exquisite limited edition blue art glass bulb atomizer is filled with exotic Zarolia was launched in 1984. The bottle held 4 oz of Eau de Parfum.







Fate of the Fragrance:

 It has been discontinued for many years and is very hard to find, it was still being sold in 1992.

Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills c1992

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Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills: launched in November 1992. Created by Jean-Claude Delville.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: gardenia, ginger lily, passion flower, rose, osmanthus, and marigold
  • Middle notes: cyclamen, cattelaya orchid, lilac, shaffali jasmine, and heliotrope
  • Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, and cedar

A group of 2,500 men and women around the world were invited to be part of a select few to evaluate five different versions of the Wings perfume all vying to be the final juice. The nominated versions contained exotic ingredients such as a cactus orchid which only blooms at night and a jasmine found in desert regions. No one would know which the winning formula would be until Oct. 1, 1992, when Linda LoRe, Giorgio's CEO would make the final selection. The fragrance was slated to debut by the first week of November of 1992 at Giorgio boutiques and by mail order only. It would not be released to department stores until January of 1993.

The final selection that became Wings perfume boasted 621 ingredients.



Lear's, Volume 6, 1993:
"Wings. From Giorgio Beverly Hills (the makers of Red, a semioriental, and Giorgio, a bright floral scent) comes this brilliant floriental with exotic floral and warm, sensual woody notes. Among the ingredients are living ginger lily, living cattelaya orchid, and living shaffali jasmine - all made possible with "living flower technology," which captures the essence of a flower's scent at the peak of bloom. In this process, a gas chromograph , or filter, is inserted into a flower to extract the aroma. Then the filter is removed, the aroma is chemically analyzed, and a.."


Bottles:

Wings parfum was contained in a small, sphere like squat bottle with a blue ball shaped stopper. The Eau de Toilette spray was in a tall, slender bottle.

Wings was originally available in the following:
  • 1 oz Extraordinary Perfume (Parfum) this bottle stands 4" tall.
  • 0.25 oz Extraordinary Perfume (Parfum)
  • 0.13 oz Extraordinary Perfume (Parfum) miniature bottle stands 1.75" tall.
  • 1.7 oz  Extraordinary Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3 oz  Extraordinary Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 5.3 oz   Extraordinary Extraordinary Perfumed Dusting Powder
  • 5.3 oz Perfumed Body Treatment Cream
  • 6.7 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Shower Gel
  • 3.4 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Moisturizer
  • 6.8 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Moisturizer
  • 8.3 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Moisturizer
  • 12 oz Exhilarating Bath Crystals


The large advertising dummy, known as a factice, was filled with colored water to simulate the look of the perfume. It would have been displayed at the perfume counter. This large bottle was on loan from Giorgio and would have been returned at the end of the promotion for the perfume, so it was not for public consumption, however, many bottles were never returned and have come up for sale over the tears. The large bottle stands about 10" tall x 7" diameter.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Avon originally owned the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrances since 1987, and then sold it to Procter & Gamble in 1994 for $150 million. P&G then merged Giorgio with it's fine fragrance division Eurocos (now known as P&G Prestige Beauté). In 2007, Arden Inc acquired the worldwide licence for Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrances and markets them under EA Fragrances.

Wings has been in constant production for many years but has suffered from reformulation due to IFRA restrictions and regulations on ingredients, the most noticeable of reformulations was around 2010.

To find the original vintage versions, be sure your bottles and packaging are marked with Giorgio Beverly Hills name and not marked with EA Fragrances (Elizabeth Arden). The EA Fragrances bottles and boxes omit the Giorgio Beverly Hills name.

Blazer by Anne Klein c1974

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Blazer by Anne Klein: launched in 1974 in association with Helena Rubinstein.

When Blazer was created, Anne Klein was best known for structured ready-to-wear apparel, as epitomized by her blazer which became world famous, fashion for the modern woman of the early 1970s.





Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic floral chypre fragrance for women. Zippy, sporty. It starts off with a fresh green top, followed by a fruity, spicy floral heart, resting on a powdery, feminine base.
  • Top notes: lemon, bergamot, mirabelle plum, hyacinth, juniper, lemon verbena, lavender, raspberry
  • Middle notes: clover, mint, calendula, carnation, marigold, orris, rose, jasmine, lily, geranium
  • Base notes: galbanum, patchouli, amber, musk, cedar, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss


Soap, Cosmetics, Chemical Specialties, 1976:
"Blazer" by Anne Klein is hailed by distributor Helena Rubinstein, New York, as "the first designer fragrance for today's active, sports-oriented woman," and will be available at Rubinstein counters in June.


House and Garden, 1976:
"Two terrific new ones to try: One that's fresh and sporty is Blazer By Anne Klein. It's a slightly citrus scent with a delicate tang that's lively and very feminine. Blazer is available in 4-ounce perfume spray as well as '4-ounce flacon, $10 and up."


Country Life, 1977:
"Finally, if any proof is needed to tell us blazers are in the air, Helena Rubinstein have brought out a new fragrance by American sportswear designer Anne Klein, called Blazer. It is designed specially for women who like a sporty look in their fashion and so has a green note spiced with flowers. It is nice to find a perfume that is quite in place out of doors and worn with sports clothes."


Bottle:

Crystal parfum flacon in 0.25 oz size was still being sold in 1981.

Originally when the fragrance was launched, the bottles featured a white paper label with a blue and red thread image and the Helena Rubinstein name. But in 1979, the perfumes were repackaged in geometric glass bottles featuring the Dennison Manufacturing Company's Therimage® decorating process for its whimsical lion labeling with the Anne Klein name. Glass bottles come from Wheaton Glass and Mack Wayne Plastics produced the closures.

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Valentino by Valentino c1977

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Valentino by Valentino: launched in 1977. Created by Givaudan-Roure. Originally launched in Europe by an Italian licensee that went bankrupt, it's popularity began to fade before it even reached American shores. The launch party was at the Paris Opera in 1978, followed by a gala dinner at Maxim's. The fragrance was promoted and marketed by Princess Ira von Furstenberg, who worked as a publicist in 1980.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a crisp, fresh floral fragrance for women. It begins with a citrusy fruity top, followed by a cool light floral heart, resting on a mossy, floral base.
  • Top notes: citrus oils, peach, basil, green note, plum
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, carnation, lily of the valley, cyclamen, hyacinth
  • Base notes: cedar, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, musk, civet


Bottle:

The bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand in 1978. The bottle was manufactured by both Pochet et du Courval and Saint Gobain Desjonqueres.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Chicago Tribune, 1985:
"Named to the Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame was Milton Stern, creator of Parfums Stern, which has such fragrances as Perry Ellis and Oscar de la Renta to its credit and, reportedly, will soon launch a fragrance by Roman designer Valentino."

After legal matters were settled in 1985, Valentino teamed up with Parfums Stern. Parfums Stern,  had the perfume slightly reformulated by Givaudan-Roure, rebottled and relaunched it worldwide in 1986.
  • Top notes: mandarin, bergamot, orange blossom, lemon, peach, melon, syringa , green notes
  • Middle notes: carnation, hyacinth, lily of the valley, rose, gardenia, ylang ylang, tuberose, violet, jasmine 
  • Base notes: orris, vetiver, amber, cedar, sandalwood, oakmoss, musk 

The perfume was said to have been inspired by a Renaissance still life painting featuring ripe melons, berries, lush lilies, roses and green foliage. The fragrance's launch party was held at Maxim's Parisian restaurant in October of 1985, before the fragrance was even available publicly in the United States. A lavish feast where guests nibbled on delectable treats including raspberry tarts, scallop pate, country pate, and the star of the table, a rich torte cake with red frosting to coordinate with the package of the Valentino perfume. Heaps of fresh flowers brought in and arranged by seven of Paris' top floral designers helped with the elegant theme. Valentino described the perfume as "seductive, an elegant tapestry of rare essences," along with his favorite word to describe his perfume, "feminine, of course, and elegant. Actually I wanted something that would not hurt the nose."

This version was part of an aggressive marketing campaign which included 28.9 million scented direct mail pieces advertising the $185 an ounce perfume. Parfums Stern believed so strongly in the fragrance that they invested $10 million to put the scent on sale in only 10 US cities. In April, 1986, Valentino began a promotional tour with six US cities and Toronto where the perfume was to be introduced. Plans were made to have the perfume sold in 345 stores in the United States and 45 in Canada. Michael Stern, President of Parfums Stern said that ""We launched the new Valentino fragrance in Europe in October 1985. The reception was very, very encouraging to us because we had been wary of the previous disaster. But it had never been introduced to the US or Canada, so in that sense, it's a clean launch." He added, "We want to keep it a prestige type fragrance," and then said he expected Valentino to shoot up to the top three in its first year.



LA Times, 1989:
"New York-based Avon had said in September 1989 that it might sell Parfums Stern and Giorgio Beverly Hills, its other prestige fragrance subsidiary, and use the proceeds to reduce its $1-billion debt. Earlier in November, Avon sold the Valentino fragrance, another Parfums Stern brand, back to the Valentino Group for $12.3 million. Avon bought Parfums Stern in November, 1987 for $160 million. Parfums Stern's annual sales have grown to more than $125 million this year from more than $100 million two years ago. "

Avon said that Stern had marketed Valentino fragrances worldwide under a license from Valentino Perfumes for four years, but the unit had not been a "very large contributor" to Avon's profit.

Report on Business Magazine, 1988:
"Parfums Stern's Valentino, launched in 1986, seemed to have all the right stuff - a distinctive name, romantic image, beautiful packaging, strong promotional support from an experienced organization. By most accounts, it has been a flop. "It was not a fragrance that American women respond to," tactfully explains Annette Green of the Fragrance Foundation, a New York-based trade group . "It's dead as a doornail," sums up David Nugent. "They poured money all over that fragrance, , but it's still an absolute Edsel. "
Discontinued, date unknown. Reformulated, rebottled and relaunched in 2008.


Jennings Perfumery Company

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The Jennings Perfumery Co. was located at 19-21 So Ottawa Street Grand Rapids, Mich.

Established 1872 by Charles W. Jennings.



Interstate Druggist, 1899:
"The firm of Jennings & Smith of Grand Rapids Mich has dissolved and CW Jennings will continue in the business of manufacturing flavors and perfumes under the title of the Jennings Flavoring Extract Co."


The Spatula, Volume 11, 1904:
"The business of the Jennings Perfumery Company Grand Rapids has been incorporated under the style of the Jennings Manufacturing Company, capital $50,000. The management remains the same."

The Pharmaceutical Era, 1929:
"C. W. Jennings, 74, head of the Jennings Manufacturing Co., manufacturers of flavoring extracts and perfumes, Grand Rapids, Mich., died Jan. 9."

The perfumes of the Jennings Company:


  • 1890 Fleur d'Orange
  • 1890 Fleur de Lis
  • 1890 Jockey Club
  • 1890 Frangipanna
  • 1890 Lily of the Valley
  • 1890 Marie Antoinet
  • 1890 Mona Cologne
  • 1890 Violet Vincennes
  • 1890 Wild Olive
  • 1890 Wilhelmina Lily
  • 1890 Yosemite Cologne 
  • 1903 Cecilia Roses 
  • 1903 Dorothy Vernon 
  • 1903 Fair St Louie 
  • 1903 Harvard Carnation 
  • 1903 Japonefleur 
  • 1903 Just Lilac 
  • 1903 Kent Pink Roses 
  • 1903 Kent Violets 
  • 1903 La Budda 
  • 1903 L'Edena 
  • 1903 Magda 
  • 1903 Nabob Pink 
  • 1903 Paredena 
  • 1903 Rosy Rose 
  • 1903 Star of Rome 
  • 1903 Sweet Afton 
  • 1903 Woodlawn Queen
  • 1905 Lady Alice
  • 1907 Sweet Arbutus
  • 1907 True White Rose
  • 1910 Alsatian Rose
  • 1910 Alsatian Violets
  • 1910 Anabell
  • 1910 Beauty Blossom
  • 1910 Blue Narcissus
  • 1910 Carlotta
  • 1910 Colonial Belle
  • 1910 Florobell
  • 1910 Forest Lily
  • 1910 Heart of Hyacinth
  • 1910 Lady Rosabelle
  • 1910 Lily Sweets
  • 1910 Lucerne
  • 1910 Lucerne Violet
  • 1910 Madoro
  • 1910 Marie Doro
  • 1910 Pink Apple Blossom
  • 1910 Rose Clover
  • 1910 Scotch Heather
  • 1910 Sweet Alsatian Roses
  • 1910 Sweet Modesty
  • 1910 The American Princess
  • 1910 The Quest Flower
  • 1910 Trailing Azalea
  • 1910 VernonFlower Odors
  • 1910 Vernon Carnation
  • 1910 Vernon Genesta
  • 1910 Vernon Lilac
  • 1910 Vernon Lily
  • 1910 Vernon Roses
  • 1910 Vernon Violets
  • 1910 Violet
  • 1910 Walton Arbutus
  • 1910 White Rose
  • 1910 Ylang-Ylang
  • 1911 Rose Saladin
  • 1918 Perfume of Love
  • 1920 Chanticlere
  • 1920 Clover Land
  • 1920 Golden Eagle
  • 1920 Golden Genesta
  • 1922 Maxie Rose
  • 1923 Ma Joie
  • 1930 Oriental Ideal
  • 1930 Palace Royal
  • 1930 Palma Girl












Primitif by Max Factor c1956

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Primitif by Max Factor: launched in 1956.


"Unleash the fatale in the femme with Primitif — bold, provocative fragrance for the woman who is every inch a female!"


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was a floral chypre fragrance for women with fruity top notes and a dominant jasmine heart.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, peach, fruity notes, citrus
  • Middle notes: gardenia, geranium, jasmine, iris, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: orris, musk, civet, patchouli, vetiver, ambergris, oakmoss, sandalwood

It was a line that included parfum, cologne, soap, bath oil drops, cream perfume, bubbling bath powder and dusting powder. In 1966-1970, a perfumed candle was released.

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1978 on clearance.



Parfums de Choisy

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Parfums de Choisy of Paris, not to be confused with glassmakers Choisy le Roy





The perfumes of Choisy:


  • 1932 Les Premieres Fleurs
  • 1933 Reviens
  • 1933 Au Paradis
  • 1933 Pour la Danse
  • 1935 Gardenia
  • 1935 Jasmin
  • 1935 Lilas



Bottles:

The perfume Reviens was housed in a Baccarat flacon as was the perfume Pour la Danse, which was housed in an opaque rose colored flacon. The perfume Au Paradis was contained inside of a 5 oz bottle by Rene Lalique, known as the "Flowering Branches" flacon. The perfume Premiere Fleurs was presented in a bottle by Cristalleries de Nancy.







Filly by Capucci c1983

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Filly by Capucci: launched in 1983.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral woody chypre fragrance for women. It is both fresh and heady with a very sweet start, slightly fruity, then a very flowery background.
  • Top notes: tangerine, peach, neroli, bergamot, aldehydes and green leaves
  • Middle notes: hyacinth, jasmine, carnation, orchid, rose and ylang-ylang
  • Base notes: amber, civet, oak moss, musk, sandalwood and vetiver


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. It was still sold in 1993.

Colgate Perfumes

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Colgate & Co. was located at 55 John Street New York. Established 1806. Richard M. Colgate, Gilbert Colgate, Sidney M. Colgate, Austen Colgate.

Key Dates:

1806:
Company is founded by William Colgate in New York to make starch, soap, and candles.
1857:
After founder's death, company becomes known as Colgate & Company.
1873:
Toothpaste is first marketed.
1896:
Collapsible tubes for toothpaste are introduced.
1898:
B.J. Johnson Soap Company (later renamed Palmolive Company) introduces Palmolive soap.
1910:
Colgate moves from original location to Jersey City, New Jersey.
1926:
Palmolive merges with Peet Brothers, creating Palmolive-Peet Company.
1928:
Colgate and Palmolive-Peet merge, forming Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.
1947:
Fab detergent and Ajax cleanser are introduced.
1953:
Company changes its name to Colgate-Palmolive Company.
1956:
Corporate headquarters shifts back to New York.
1966:
Palmolive dishwashing liquid is introduced.
1967:
Sales top $1 billion.
1968:
Colgate toothpaste is reformulated with fluoride; Ultra Brite is introduced.
1976:
Hill's Pet Products is purchased.
1987:
The Softsoap brand of liquid soap is acquired.
1992:
The Mennen Company is acquired; Total toothpaste is introduced overseas.
1995:
Latin American firm Kolynos Oral Care is acquired; Colgate-Palmolive undergoes major restructuring.
1997:
Total toothpaste is launched in the United States; Colgate takes lead in domestic toothpaste market.
2004:
Company acquires European oral care firm GABA Holding AG; major restructuring is launched.



Colgate Company of Jersey City, NJ from 1879 to 1959.

Colgate & Company had been a pioneer in establishing international operations, creating a Canadian subsidiary in 1913 and one in France in 1920. In the early 1920s the firm expanded into Australia, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Mexico. Colgate or its successor firm next created subsidiaries in the Philippines, Brazil, Argentina, and South Africa in the late 1920s. In 1937 the company moved into India and by the end of the 1940s had operations in most of South America. By 1939 Colgate-Palmolive-Peet's sales hit $100 million.








The Colgate's Soap and Perfumery Works, later Colgate-Palmolive, was founded in 1806 by William Colgate. Colgate, an English immigrant, set up a starch, soap and candle business on Dutch Street in New York City. Frances Smith was made a partner in the following year and the firm became Smith and Colgate. William Colgate bought out his partner in 1813, the name was then changed to William Colgate & Co.The company moved from New York to NJ and the factory was completed in 1847.

The name Colgate & Company was first adopted in 1857, after the death of William Colgate. Colgate & Company began getting into fragrance and calling themselves perfumers in 1866. In 1866, the company introduced perfumed soap and began the manufacture of perfumes and essences. Six years later Cashmere Bouquet, the first milled perfumed toilet soap, was registered as a trademark. Colgate & Company produced its first toothpaste, an aromatic dental cream sold in jars.

Then, in 1896, the Colgate company made toothpaste much more convenient to use by introducing the first collapsible toothpaste tube, one similar to those in use today. Meanwhile in Milwaukee, the B.J Johnson Soap Company, founded in 1864, was about to change its destiny. In 1898, the company introduced Palmolive Soap, a product that was so successful it prompted B.L. Johnson to change its name to the Palmolive Company in 1916.

By its 100th anniversary, Colgate & Company, was manufacturing dental care products, laundry soaps, 160 different kinds of toilet soap and 625 varieties of perfume. The US Palmolive Company was expanding too. In 1926, it merged with the soap manufacturers Peet Brothers in Kansas City to form Palmolive-Peet Company. Two years later, this company merged with Colgate & Company and the new entity was known as the Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.

By 1872, Colgate was trademarking its fragrances and using bottles which bore a Colgate trademark symbol.

Perfumers:

William  P. Ungerer served as Colgate's chemist perfumer until 1893, when he left to establish his own company, manufacturing and supplying essential oils, known as Ungerer & Co.

 He was one of the oldest experts in perfumery in America and had been the Dean of American Perfumery. Mr Ungerer was born in Basle, Switzerland March 30, 1833, and in his early youth showed a taste for the perfumery business, but his inclinations did not meet with the approval of his father, and on this account, he left home and went to Paris, where he took up the study of perfumery and pharmacy at La Pharmacie Centrale de France. Later, he went to the south of France, and with the opportunities at hand, in that section, soon developed some of his original ideas on the manufacture of perfumery, which obtained for him, a position as assistant perfumer in Paris with the firm of Pinaud. On the death of Ed Pinaud, he became chief perfumer. Later, Mr. Ungerer was appointed private perfumer to the Emperor of Austria, who had a laboratory for making perfumery for the court.

 In 1865, Mr. Ungerer came over to Philadelphia, then the home of American perfumery, on a visit. He was not satisfied with business conditions there, and was on the point of going back to Europe when he was induced by a friend to go to Rochester, and it was in that city that he founded the firm of NO Vosburgh & Co (Star Chemical Works), manufacturers of perfumes, soaps, and toilet articles. In 1872, he entered the employ of Colgate & Co as chief perfumer, remaining with that house for twenty-one years, at the end of which on account of poor health, he entered the essential oil business as American representative of Roure Bertram Fils, his eldest son William G. Ungerer taking his place as chief perfumer for Colgate & Co. Three years later, young Ungerer joined his father in the essential oil business which was incorporated in 1901. He belonged to the Drug and Chemical Club and the Manufacturing Perfumers Association of the United States.



In 1950, Stephen G. Capkovitz was appointed the chief chemist and perfumer for Prince Matchabelli. Stephen G. Capkovitz (Feb 12, 1917 - Dec 23, 1988), also worked for Seaforth Inc (who was owned by Vicks) and the Sofskin Company in the 1950s. In 1958, Vicks sold Prince Matchabelli to Chesebrough-Ponds.

Formerly, he was chief chemist for Yardley, and was associated in similar capacity with Albert Verley and Co, and then head of the perfumery division of the research and development for Colgate-Palmolive-Peet/Jeurelle Seventeen in 1952. He was assistant perfumer for Norda Essential Oil & Chemical Co. Norda used many of the H. Carles raw materials as evidenced by vintage 1950s photographs of the factory interiors. He was a graduate of New York University and continued studies at Columbia University and the Brooklyn Polytechnic Institute.

He joined SB Penick & Co of New York in January of 1957 as a technical sales representative and was promoted to manager of the perfume, flavor and aromatic chemicals division a few months later. He was still employed at the company in 1961.

Capkovitz was also a member of the Society of Flavor Chemists, and the American Oil Chemists Society in 1940, as well as the American Institute of Chemists where he was elected in 1951.

In 1978, I see that Capkovitz was the director of fragrance research at the Warner-Jenkinson Company at their new plant in Carlstadt, NJ housing Warner-Jenkinson East, Inc and Creative Perfumers. This facility provided eastern clients with FD&C colors, flavors and fragrances.


Perfume List:


I have listed all the Colgate perfumes I have been able to find, I do know that 625 perfumes were available by 1920, so if there is one I missed, please let me know. Thanks

The following pictures shown below are from an old 1891 Colgate catalog.






The following pictures shown below are from an old 1901 Colgate catalog.










The perfumes of Colgate:

  • 1872 Cashmere Bouquet
  • 1872 Elder Flower
  • 1872 Jockey Club
  • 1872 Marshmallow
  • 1872 May Blossom
  • 1872 Musk
  • 1872 Musk Lavender
  • 1872 Patchouly
  • 1872 Primrose
  • 1872 Rondeletia
  • 1872 Rose
  • 1872 Rose Geranium
  • 1872 Verbena
  • 1879 Wedding March Bouquet
  • 1880 Ambrosial Perfume for the Bath
  • 1880 Cassie
  • 1880 Heliotrope
  • 1880 Heliotrope Toilet Water 
  • 1881 Bouquet de Caroline
  • 1881 Bridal Bouquet
  • 1881 Damask Rose
  • 1881 Lily of the Valley
  • 1881 Magnolia
  • 1881 May Flower
  • 1881 Musk Rose
  • 1881 New Mown Hay
  • 1881 Night Blooming Cereus
  • 1883 Caprice
  • 1886 Speciosa
  • 1886 Speciosa Toilet Water
  • 1887 Apple Blossom 
  • 1887 Blush Rose 
  • 1887 Ess Bouquet 
  • 1887 Fleur d Orange 
  • 1887 Four Seasons 
  • 1887 Frangipanni 
  • 1887 Garden Flowers 
  • 1887 Gardenia  
  • 1887 Italian Violet 
  • 1887 Jasmin 
  • 1887 Jonquil 
  • 1887 Kiss me quick 
  • 1887 Lavender Toilet Water
  • 1887 Lilium Auratum  
  • 1887 Lotos Blossom 
  • 1887 Meadow Flowers 
  • 1887 Mignonette 
  • 1887 Millefleurs 
  • 1887 Moss Rose 
  • 1887 Multiflora Toilet Water
  • 1887 Opoponax 
  • 1887 Pansy Blossom 
  • 1887 Pond Lily
  • 1887 Rosodora Toilet Water
  • 1887 Spring Flowers 
  • 1887 Souvenir 
  • 1887 Stephanotis 
  • 1887 Sweet Brier 
  • 1887 Sweet Clover 
  • 1887 Sweet Pea 
  • 1887 Sweet Pink 
  • 1887 Sweet Sixteen 
  • 1887 Tea Rose 
  • 1887 Tuberose 
  • 1887 Upper Ten 
  • 1887 Violet Toilet Water
  • 1887 West End 
  • 1887 White Heliotrope
  • 1887 White Lilac
  • 1887 White Rose 
  • 1887 White Violet 
  • 1887 Wood Violet 
  • 1887 Ylang Ylang 
  • 1889 La France Rose
  • 1889 Pansy Blossom
  • 1890 Coleo
  • 1890 Violet Water
  • 1890 May Bells
  • 1890 White Rose
  • 1890 White Violet
  • 1890 Fleurette
  • 1891 Apple Blossom
  • 1891 Ess. Bouquet
  • 1891 Frangipanni
  • 1891 Gardenia
  • 1891 Heliotrope
  • 1891 Italian Violets
  • 1891 Jasmin
  • 1891 Lilium Auratum
  • 1891 Lotos Blossom
  • 1891 May Blossom
  • 1891 Mignonette
  • 1891 Millefleurs
  • 1891 Moss Rose
  • 1891 Mountain Violets
  • 1891 Opoponax
  • 1891 Pansy Blossom
  • 1891 Reception Bouquet
  • 1891 Souvenir
  • 1891 Stephanotis
  • 1891 Sweet Lavender
  • 1891 Sweet Pea
  • 1891 Tea Rose
  • 1891 Tonquin Musk
  • 1891 Violet
  • 1891 West End
  • 1891 White Heliotrope
  • 1891 White Lilac
  • 1891 Ylang Ylang
  • 1894 Crab Apple Blossom
  • 1895 White Clematis
  • 1895 Bay Rum
  • 1897 Vioris
  • 1900 Young People's Perfumes (set)
  • 1900 Christmas Bouquet
  • 1900 Eclat
  • 1900 Holiday Bouquet
  • 1900 Splendor
  • 1900 Violet Water
  • 1901 Carnation
  • 1901 Dactylis
  • 1901 Lilac Imperial
  • 1901 Monad Violet
  • 1901 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1901 Robinia
  • 1901 Sandalwood
  • 1901 Trailing Arbutus
  • 1903 Viodora
  • 1903 Alba
  • 1903 Coronel
  • 1903 Dermal 
  • 1903 Quinol
  • 1903 Rosodora
  • 1904 Fantasy
  • 1904 Week-End
  • 1905 Knickerbocker
  • 1906 Carnival Violets
  • 1907 Frisia
  • 1907 La France Rose
  • 1908 Eleda
  • 1910 Lilac Imperial Toilet Water
  • 1910 Caprice Toilet Water
  • 1911 Corylopsis
  • 1911 Cut Roses
  • 1911 Royal Shamrock
  • 1912 Florient
  • 1914 Radiant Rose
  • 1914 Splendor
  • 1915 Eclat
  • 1915 Violette di Mai
  • 1915 Vision de Fleurs
  • 1917 Cha Ming
  • 1917 Les Fleurs Favorites
  • 1917 Orange Perfume
  • 1920 Dawn
  • 1920 Myself
  • 1921 Allegro
  • 1921 Atta
  • 1921 Clair de Lune
  • 1921 Florient
  • 1921 Hope
  • 1921 Piquante
  • 1921 Princess Harran
  • 1921 Sandalay
  • 1921 The Unknown Flower
  • 1922 Alba Violet
  • 1922 Fi Fi
  • 1922 La Liberte
  • 1922 Orchis
  • 1922 Pansy Blossom
  • 1922 Roses From Araby
  • 1922 Violette de Mai
  • 1922 Violets From The Riviera
  • 1923 Amarna
  • 1923 Bast
  • 1923 Egypt
  • 1923 Kahira
  • 1923 Khepera
  • 1923 Watch Case
  • 1924 Andor, reissued in 1954
  • 1925 Colgate Fleurs
  • 1926 Dona Flor
  • 1926 Night
  • 1926 Piquant
  • 1927 Orchis
  • 1928 Seventeen
  • 1936 Parami
  • 1949 Facade
  • 1959 Man Trap






Prices Current By Fuller & Fuller Co., Chicago, 1907:

Balahe by Leonard c1983

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Balahé by Leonard was launched in 1983. Created by Daniel Moliere from Givaudan perfumers.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic, fruity top, followed by an exotic floral heart, resting on a sweet, balsamic, powdery base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, pineapple, coriander, plum, mandarin orange, clary sage, anise and bergamot
  • Middle notes: tuberose, iris, orchid, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and orange blossom
  • Base notes: sandalwood, opoponax, musk, civet, vanilla, amber and vetiver

 



Bottle:


The bottle is black glass, and shaped like a pebble, it is sculpted with a mountain peak and tied with a red silk cord. Balahé parfum came in three sizes— 1/4 ounce, 1/2 ounce and 1 ounce. It was also available in three sizes of eau de toilette strength.

  • 0.25 oz Parfum
  • 0.5 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 6.7 oz Eau de Toilette


Fate of the Fragrance:


Balahe was discontinued around 1993 so it is no longer being produced but you can still find old bottles online.  


In 1996, Miss Balahe was introduced.
  • Top notes: orange blossom, bergamot, freesia, lily of the valley, cyclamen
  • Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, rose, syringa
  • Base notes: musk, vanilla, amber, heliotrope
 

In 2015, Eau de Balahe was released as a light fruity floral fragrance for women.
  •  Top notes: tiare, raspberry
  • Middle notes: jasmine 
  • Base notes: vanilla




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