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Parfum d'Ete by Kenzo c1992

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Parfum d'Été by Kenzo: launched in 1992. Created by Christian Mathieu.

The name means "Perfume of Summer" in French, summer just happens to be Kenzo's favourite season.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral aqua fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: green sap notes, cactus flower, 
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, peony, narcissus, freesia and hyacinth
  • Base notes:  musk, amber, iris, sandalwood and oakmoss

Parfum d'Ete was available in the following:
  • 0.25 oz Parfum Spray
  • 0.25 oz Parfum Spray Refill
  • 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray


In addition to pure perfume and eau de toilette, the original version of Parfum d'Ete was also available in bath and body products such as Soap, Body Lotion, Shower Gel, Deodorant Stick, and Deodorant Spray. For the health conscious, by 1998, the scent was also available in Vitamin Enriched Body Lotion and Shower Gel and an alcohol free fragrance.



Bottles:


Parfum d'Ete was originally presented in a frosted glass bottle which fits neatly into the hand, designed by Serge Mansau and replicates a finely veined leaf on which rests tiny dewdrops. This vintage bottle is presented in a turquoise box with grass-like embossing and features the round Kenzo seal.

Below is a 5 ml miniature version of the bottle from my own collection.



The vintage deluxe purse size Parfum Spray bottle is a frosted stylized leaf shape, without any molded decoration, instead, it is fitted with an atomizer which is refillable. This 7.5 ml purse bottle is presented inside of a gorgeous frosted resin leaf box that imitates the leaf design from the original Mansau leaf design bottle. Today, it is uncommon to complete set of the spray and leaf box. Shown below are photos of the bottle and refill bottle from my own collection.



Parfum d'Ete has been reformulated and repackaged and may not smell the same as the original vintage version. However, it is quite easy to tell the difference right off the bat. The new bottles are very simple, leaf shapes, clear glass, with no molded details. The boxes are white with a vivid green leaf motif on the front. See the example below.



Chant Du Coeur by Shiseido c1992

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Chant Du Coeur by Shiseido: launched in 1992. The fragrance, created by Edouard Flechier and manufactured in France was marketed in Japan. The name means "Song of the Heart" in French.







Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. It is described as "delicate, transparent, glowing, and warm."

  • Top notes: green notes, galbanum, bergamot, lemon, peach and hyacinth
  • Middle notes: violet, rosewood, jasmine, lily, narcissus, iris and rose
  • Base notes: oakmoss, cedar and musk

Bottle:


The clear glass organic style bottle designed by Angela Cummings, was adorned with a gingko leaf that represents “closeness to nature”.

The fragrance was available in Parfum and Eau de Parfum (Pure Mist).

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.



Theorema by Fendi c1998

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Theorema by Fendi: launched in 1998. Created by Christina Nagel.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: tangelo, shamouti orange, jasmine and eglantine
  • Middle notes of osmanthus, jasmine, cinnamon, pink pepper and Afghan spices
  • Base notes: sandalwood, patchouli, musk and vetiver

Range:

Theorema was available in the following:
  • 0.1 oz Eau de Parfum mini
  • 0.84 oz Parfum d'Extrait
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum
  • 3.5 oz Eau de Parfum
  • Shimmering Shower Gel
  • Shimmering Body Lotion 
In 1999, Fendi Theorema Leggero Eau de Toilette was introduced as a lighter version of Theorema. This fragrance was also available as a Crackling Body Foam. A blue tinted Fendi Theorema Leggero For Summer Eau de Toilette was launched as well. These are discontinued. 
In 1999, the Fendi Theorema Esprit d'Ete was released as a summer fragrance. This fragrance is also discontinued.


Bottles:

Presented in a simple rectangular bottle reminiscent of a handbag with a square gold cap embossed with the FF logo, designed by Catherine Krunas. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 2005.




Sans Adieu by Worth c1929

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Sans Adieu by Worth: launched in 1929.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a cool, fresh citrus fougere fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: galbanum, bergamot, lemon
  • Middle notes: lavender
  • Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, amber, musk

Palm Beach Daily News 1930:
"A well known fashion authority wrote of Worth’s Sans Adieu - “It is a perfume men will like.” WORTH'S SANS ADIEU  is the ideal perfume for hot climates its fragrance is so— cool, so fresh, so clean, and so feminine. Worth has bottled it, most appropriately, in a clear, translucent green glass flacon - modern and decorative for the dressing table."

Art et la Mode,1954:
"Chez Worth. Toutes les femmes élégantes connaissent les parfums de Worth et récitent, dans leur cœur, la belle litanie d'amour que les noms mêmes de ces parfums semblent avoir écrites, ... Sans Adieu », « Je Reviens ».


Bottles:




Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Reformulated by Maurice Blanchet and relaunched in 1995 under the ownership of International Classic Brands. It is classified as a sporty aromatic citrus fragrance for women, cologne like, fresh and bracing, suitable for male use.
  • Top notes: citrus and aquatic notes
  • Middle notes: melon
  • Base notes: green notes

Discontinued, date unknown.




Racarma

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R. A. Carmichael & Co., manufacturing chemists of Detroit, placed on the market a new, high-grade line of toilet preparations under the trade name "Racarma" in 1915.

They claimed to use French formulas devised by "French chemists" and the products were manufactured in the United States in order to be more affordable and attainable to American women. Their advertising tag line was "French Perfumes -Made in America".

In 1917, the company name was changed from Racarma to Racarma Co, Inc.

The advertisement below claims that Racarma made "more than 150 perfumes and toilet luxuries", however, finding perfumes by Racarma is very difficult and I only have found a few so far.

The company seems to have gone out of business around 1949 or so as I cannot find any advertising after that date.





The perfumes of Racarma:
  • 1915 Thetis
  • 1915 Excentrique  
  • 1915 Midsummer Rose
  • 1915 La Verde  (Presented in a bottle by Cristalleries de Nancy)
  • 1915 L'Esprit de Lilas  
  • 1915 L'Esprit de Rose 
  • 1915 L'Esprit de Violette
  • 1915 L'Esprit de Muguet
  • 1915 Reine de Fleurs
  • 1918 Twilight Lily
  • 1919 Sunbeam Violet
  • 1919 Lakeside Lilac
  • 1919 Bouquet
  • 1943 Pine Bath Oil


Some Racarma perfumes were housed in trapezoidal shaped clear and frosted glass bottles designed by Julien Viard. This bottle was also used by other companies such as Dubarry and Veldez. The toilet waters and talcum powders were housed in tall, frosted glass bottles. The creams were housed in frosted glass jars.








Dolce Vita by Christian Dior c1994

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Dolce Vita by Christian Dior: created by Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger and launched in 1994.


Inspiration:


A happiness potion, Dolce Vita is a sensual, voluptuous fragrance that is simple and contrasting, hinting at a carefree, joyous walk along the Italian Riviera. This dazzlingly feminine fragrance illustrates Christian Dior's fascination for Latin women.

Vanity Fair, 1994:
"Bellini-esque" is not an adjective that could have been applied to the launch party for Dolce Vita, a new Christian Dior perfume, at the Plaza's Grand Ballroom."

This perfume of joy and happiness reminds us of hot and sunny summer days-the scent of easy living.



Fragrance Composotion:

This dazzlingly feminine fragrance features joyous fruity and floral notes with the spicy, sensual accents of cedar. It epitomizes Dior's glorious spirit.

So what does it smell like? This is a sweet floral oriental fragrance with a spicy woody base.
  • Top notes: grapefruit, peach, rose, bergamot, cardamom, lily
  • Heart notes: peach, apricot, Brazilian rosewood, cinnamon, lily, magnolia, heliotrope,
  • Base notes: sandalwood, vanilla, cedar, coconut




Flacon Design:


The Dolce Vita bottle combines glass and perfume artistry in the tradition of luxury. The transparent yellow gold gleams through the facets carved into the glass with amazing clarity.




Dolce Vita by F. Demachy:


Magnolia and Cinnamon notes enhance the woody base of Dolce Vita. This final accord, which is generally masculine, intensifies the modernity of this extremely feminine fragrance. 

Dolce Vita, the fragrance of happiness recalls the carefree, heart-lifting nostalgia of driving a convertible along the Italian Riviera. A dazzlingly feminine and joyful fruity/floral fragrance with spicy, sensual undertones of cedar, it incarnates the spirit of Dior in all its sumptuousness.




Dolce Vita was originally available as:
  • Parfum
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette
  • Body Lotion
  • Bath & Shower Gel
  • Dusting Powder
  • Brume Parfumee/Body Mist
Dolce Vita is available as:
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette

Chicane by Jacomo c1971

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Chicane by Jacomo: launched in 1971.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart of jasmine and rose from Grasse, resting on a feminine, woody, powdery base of sandalwood and cedar.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, fruity notes, bergamot, lemon
  • Middle notes: rose de mai, Grasse rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang and carnation
  • Base notes: tea, cedar, Ambrein, leather, oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, tonka bean and musk

Bottle:

Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand in 1970. The bottle was manufactured by Saint Gobain Desjonqueres with plastic components supplied by Mayet.





In 1973, Chicane retailed for $45 for 1 oz of Parfum, $26 for 1/2 oz of Parfum and $14 for 1/4 oz of Parfum. 2 oz of Eau de Toilette Splash was $10, 6 oz of Eau de Toilette Splash was $16 and 4 oz of Eau de Toilette Spray was $14, with a spray refill of $11.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. It was last for sale in 1987.

Choc de Cardin by Pierre Cardin c1981

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Choc de Cardin by Pierre Cardin: launched in 1981. Created by Francoise Caron.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh fruity floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a citrusy, spicy top note, followed by a light floral heart, resting on a warm, woody, mossy base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, peach, basil, mango, passionfruit, lychee, papaya, bergamot and lemon
  • Middle notes: ginger, cardamom, honey, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose
  • Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, civet and oakmoss

Bottle:


Presented in a bottle shaped like two joined spheres with a round black stopper which was matched by a dramatically stark advertisement.

Fate of the Fragrance:


was reformulated





Vintage Boudoirs of the Stars - Part 7

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 Here are more fabulous images of dressing tables of the past! I have tried to identify all the perfumes in each photo, but sometimes the images are just too small for me to make them out.

Mary Brian holding Le Chick Chick by Vigny, and sitting at her vanity featuring various atomizers on her vanity as well as commercial bottles. On the bottom shelf, I spy Golliwogg by Vigny, Serre Fleurie by Corday, Arlequinade by Rosine, and the box for Porte Bonheur by D'Orsay. The third shelf down holds either L'Heure Bleue or Mitsouko by Guerlain, Des Jardins de Muse by Fioret, Narcisse Noir by Caron, and unknown bottles along with a Volupte atomizer. The second shelf down displays Le Dandy by D'Orsay, and Porte Bonheur by D'Orsay hiding behind it, and one Volupte atomizer, a DeVilbiss atomizer and an Italian Murano glass perfume bottle. The top shelf has the matching Murano perfume bottle along with a nice French atomizer.  



Austro-Hungarian actress Vilma Banky (1902-1991) at her dressing table. A tall DeVilbiss atomizer is in the center, along with plenty of cut glass perfume bottles and a powder jars.


Huge French atomizer with probably Marcel Franck hardware. c1920s.



Ginger Rogers in Professional Sweetheart, notice the pretty Czech bottles on her vanity. 


Grace Bradley, 1935, with perfumes on her vanity including Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi by Caron, and either Mitsouko or L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain (with a stopper for Narcisse Noir by Caron inside!) also notice the gorgeous large Czech crystal perfume bottles and atomizer.

Toujours Toi by Corday c1951

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Toujours Toi by Corday: launched in 1951. The name means "Always You" in French and is a flanker to Toujours Moi (Always Me) perfume.











Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women and was described as "haunting, delicate" and "woodsy, exotic" with a Bulgarian rose undertone.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, lily, bergamot, hyacinth
  • Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, Sambac jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose
  • Base notes: orris, civet, musk, vetiver, cedar, ambergris, benzoin, vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, opoponax

Bottles:

Toujours Toi was available in parfum and eau de parfum.
  • 2 oz parfum bottle stands approximately 4 1/8" tall.
  • 1 oz parfum bottle stands just over 3 1/2" tall.
  • 1/2 oz parfum bottle stands 3" tall.
  • 1/8 oz parfum mini bottle stands approximately 1 3/4" tall.
  • 1/8 oz Cordette brass purse parfum flacon.
  • 4 oz eau de parfum concentree bottle. stands 5" tall.
  • 2 oz eau de parfum concentree bottle stands 4 1/4" tall.
  • 1/2 oz eau de parfum concentree bottle.


Town & Country - Volume 107, 1953:
"Corday's delightful French import: a quarter-ounce of Toujours Toi with Marcel Franck's mother-of-pearl atomizer."

"Toujours Toi," a perfume bottle for Corday, in clear glass, with gilded detail, with label, sealed in box. Paper loss, interior stain. Ht. 3 3/4". Photo by Rago Arts.

Vintage 1950s Corday Toujours Toi & Toujours Moi perfume bottles in the original presentation case. The case is covered in ivory silk with a gold thread design and measures 3 1/2"diameter. The pair of mini perfume bottles each measure only 1 1/2" tall. The Toujours Toi bottle is entirely covered in gold enamel. Photo from worthpoint.

Toujours Toi parfum bottle, stands 3" tall. Photo from worthpoint.

1/2 oz parfum bottle stands 3" tall. Photo from worthpoint.

Vintage 1950s Toujours Toi perfume ensemble. It features a 1/2 ounce bottle of eau de parfum and a 1/8oz. mini bottle of parfum. This set comes in original shipping box, Corday tissue paper and a jewelry style box for containing the perfume. Photo from worthpoint.

2 oz eau de parfum concentree bottle stands 4 1/4" tall. Photo from worthpoint.

1/8 oz parfum mini perfume bottle, entirely enameled in gold. Photo from ebay seller itsnotme.

Vintage 1950s Toujours Toi perfume ensemble. It features a bottle of eau de parfum and a bottle of parfum. This set comes in original Corday tissue paper and a jewelry style box for containing the perfume. Photo from delcampe seller Mausi1


Period Advertisements:

In 1951 prices for the Toujours Toi perfume ranged from $5.40 to $12.00.

Corday's TOUJOURS TOI, original retail prices shown in the 1960 American Druggist Blue Book:
  • Cordette, $3.75
  • Eau de Parfum, 2 oz. ea $5.00
  • Eau de Parfum, 4 oz. ea $9.50
  • Parfum, 1/4 oz.  ea $7.50
  • Parfum, 1/2 oz. ea $13.50
  • Parfum, 1 oz. ea $25.00
  • Parfum, 2 oz. ea $45.00

Fate of the Fragrance:


 Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1970.

Note: Please understand that this website is not affiliated with the Corday company in any way, it is only a reference page for collectors and those who have enjoyed the Corday fragrances.  

The goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Corday company how much we miss the discontinued classics such as Toujours Toi and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back the perfume! 

Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the perfume, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories), who knows, perhaps someone from the company might see it.


PERFUME HACK - Removing Perfume Stains

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Did you spill perfume or cologne on your favorite dress or did your cat knock over your best bottle of perfume onto the carpet? Here are some quick and easy tips to remove those stains!

    From Fabrics:


    Helpful Tip: Treat stains as soon as possible after staining. The older the stain, the more difficult it will be to remove. Perfumes often contain both alcohol and oils, as well as dyes, any of which can leave a stain. All stain removal methods should be applied prior to laundering washable garments. Stains that have been laundered and dried are almost impossible to remove. Always test a cleaning solution on a small, out-of-the-way area first to look for any adverse reaction.

    Caution: Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia - fumes are hazardous.


    For Washable Fabrics:

    What you will need

    • Liquid hand dishwashing detergent
    • White vinegar
    • Rubbing alcohol
    • Enzyme presoak product
    • Chlorine bleach or oxygen bleach


    Steps to Clean:

    1. Soak for 15 minutes in mixture of one quart lukewarm water, one-half teaspoon liquid hand dishwashing detergent and one tablespoon white vinegar. Rinse.
    2. Sponge with rubbing alcohol, using light motions from center to edge of stain.
    3. Soak for 30 minutes in one quart warm water with one tablespoon enzyme presoak products.
    4. If color stain remains, launder in chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or in oxygen bleach.

    Carpet:



    What you will need:
    • White vinegar
    • Detergent
    • 3% Hydrogen peroxide


    Steps to Clean:
    1. Blot with a white paper towel to remove as much of the stain as possible, then neutralize with a white vinegar solution (1/3 cup WHITE vinegar in 2/3 cup of water). Saturate spot with white vinegar solution, using a spray bottle and blot to remove excess moisture.
    2. Apply a small quantity of detergent solution to the spot. (To make the detergent solution mix 1/4 teaspoon of a hand dishwashing detergent which does not contain lanolin or bleach with 1 quart of water) Use a blotting motion to work the detergent into the affected area. If spot is being removed continue applying detergent and blotting with a white paper towel until spot is removed.
    3. Rinse with tap water using a spray bottle, blot to remove excess moisture.
    4. Spray lightly with water, do not blot this time; apply pad of paper towels and brick and allow to dry.
    5. If there is still some stain on the carpet and blotting is not removing it, then moisten the tufts in the stained area with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Let stand for on (1) hour. Blot and repeat until carpet is stain free. Light will cause peroxide to change back to water so no rinsing is necessary. Apply pad of paper towels and weight down with brick.
    Or

    What you will need
    • Detergent
    • White vinegar

    Steps to Clean:
    1. Using clean white paper towels, blot up as much of the stain as possible.
    2. Use plain water or mix one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing detergent and one tablespoon of white vinegar with two cups of warm water.
    3. Using a clean white cloth, sponge the stain with a small amount of water or the detergent/vinegar solution. Apply a little bit at a time, blotting frequently with a dry cloth until the stain disappears.
    4. If using a detergent/vinegar solution, sponge with cold water and blot dry to remove the solution.


    Upholstery:

    What you will need:
    • Dry cleaning solvent

    Steps to Clean:
    1. Using a clean white cloth, sponge the stain with the dry cleaning solvent.
    2. Blot until the solvent is absorbed.
    3. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until the stain disappears.


    Other Surfaces:


    Removing Perfume Stains From Wood:

    • To remove perfume stains from the wooden top of your vanity table, rub a little olive oil over the spots. Then rub with a fresh, soft cloth to remove excess oil. 

    Removing Perfume from Ceramic Tile:
    • Step 1: Blot the perfume spill with paper towels or absorbent rags to remove most of the liquid. Do not wipe the perfume, which may spread oil and fragrance beyond the affected area.
    • Step 2: Pour baking soda over the spill area. Allow the baking soda to absorb the liquid and oil from the perfume for five to ten minutes. Sweep it up with a broom and dustpan. Apply more baking soda to the perfume spill until the baking soda no longer wicks up any liquid or oil. Remove the last application of baking soda from the ceramic tile using your broom and dustpan.
    • Step 3: Fill a bucket with warm water and add one teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent. Stir the soapy solution with your hands to mix.
    • Step 4: Saturate a clean cloth with the soapy solution. Wipe the ceramic tile at the site of the spill. The dishwashing detergent will remove any remaining oils from the perfume. Dampen a clean cloth with water and rinse the tile. - info from Hunker.com



    Some info suggested by the University of Illinois.

    Votre by Charles Jourdan c1978

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    Vôtre by Charles Jourdan: launched in 1978. Created by Jean-Louis Sieuzac.




    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral-green fragrance for women, reportedly made u of 130 different essential oils.
    • Top notes: plum evernia blossom, mandarin, hyacinth, galbanum, cassis and clary sage
    • Middle notes: ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley and French marigold
    • Base notes: amber, cedar wood, sandalwood and musk

    Bottle:














    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1988.


    Hope by Frances Denney c1952

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    Hope by Frances Denney: launched in 1952.



    Fragrance Composition:



    So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It begins with an citrusy aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a warm, powdery base.

    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, peach, lemon, geranium, coriander, cinnamon
    • Middle notes: lily of the valley, carnation, Bulgarian rose, Florentine orris, ylang ylang, orchid, jasmine absolute
    • Base notes: vanilla, musk, Argentine guaiac, vetiver, sandalwood, amber, benzoin, tonka, civet, incense


    Woman's Home Companion, 1952:
    "Frances Denney's Hope toilet essence. It's new! $2.75."

    Mademoiselle, 1976:
    "Hope. A perfume. Only for those of us who live with the feeling that what is wanted, will happen. It's the story of my life. It's Bulgarian roses, for Heinrich, my first love, an exchange student. Jasmin Absolute, from the South of France, for the Son of the Pretender to the Throne of a country I cannot name. Florentine Orris, for my life in art with Michelangelo and David. A very erotic oil, oil of Guaiac wood, from the jungles of the Argentine, for Domenico, my guide through Gran Chaco, the famed 'Green Hell'. It's light, buoyant and alive and wildly romantic and very adventurous. Hope Fragrance Collection by Frances Denney."


    The New Yorker, 1978:
    "HOPE...Not just because it's the Christmas season, but because you want your own fragrance. A quiet original— a fragrance that blends jasmine, and lily of the valley, geranium and rose, with just the barest touch of musk. HOPE is intimate, and lingering, and created a memory of just you.  If you want your own awareness - now is the time for Hope. The Real Beauty in the crowd Frances Denney."



    K.T. Maclay's Total beauty catalog, 1978:
    "HOPE by Frances Denney, $3.75-815.00. Made for the romantic snow queen with tinsel in her hair, Hope wafts on free and winsome— before caroling, while wassailing, at brunch, unwrapping presents beneath the tree on a sparkling Christmas morning. A winter fragrance. Innocent? But of course! Naive? Never!"

    New Woman, 1998:
    "Indulge yourself with fragrance — Interlude, a mysterious oriental bouquet, or Hope, a warm, sensual, spicy scent with a hint of vanilla."

    Fate of the Fragrance:


     Hope is still in production, but has suffered from reformulation.

    Collecting Green Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

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    In this guide I will discuss the various green glass commercial perfume bottles and some of the rarest commercial perfume bottle colors of all---the opaque glass pieces. This is not a complete list as there are probably hundreds of others to be found, if you have one not listed and would like to share a photo, please let me know and I will include it here.

    Some green glass bottles I have not included are Solon Palmer, Crown Perfumery Smelling Salts and Mouson Lavendel. These are fairly common. My main goal here is to show some of the rare and hard to find bottles.

    Most of the opaque glass perfume bottles that you will encounter was manufactured by the French company, Cristalleries de Nancy between 1924-1934 and came in various colors such as red, green, black, purple and both turquoise blue and yellow ochre being the rarest. These bottles were produced for the following perfume companies: d'Alamode, Bischoff, du Bois, Bourbon, Burdin, de Burmann, Chenier, Drialys, Marie Magdeleine, Miga, Offenthal, Renaud, Serey and plenty of others. You will see a variety of sizes ranging from 6 1/8" tall down to 2 1/8" tall. I have also seen these perfume bottles called slag glass.







    "Giardini," a perfume bottle for Babani, circa 1920, in green glass with gilded and enameled detail. Ht. 4 3/8 in (11 cm)


    1920s L. Chalon, Roger and Gallet Bouquet Nouveau perfume bottle and stopper, pale green glass, Ar t Nouveau gilt metal holder with labeling and Chalon signature. 4 1/4 in.



    1923 R. Lalique, Roger & Gallet Le Jade perfume bottle and stopper, opal green glass, molded label, cord seal. Molded Lalique. 3 1/4 in.


    Charme Caressant by Dalon c1924. A milky green bottle covered in a faux shagreen pattern was made by Andre Jollivet in two sizes for the parfum extract for Charme Caressant by Dalon. The toilet water bottle is made up of clear glass, it was not made by Jollivet.






    Sweet Pea Ambree by Renaud c1920s. The opaque slag glass bottles were manufactured by Cristalleries de Nancy during 1924-1934 and came in various shapes, this quick overview will discuss the rectangular bottle with rounded corners. Note: this bottle was also made in clear glass with a frosted stopper. These bottles came in the following colors: red, coral orange, green, and black. The rarest of colors are yellow ochre, purple, white & turquoise. The bottle can also be found entirely covered in gold enamel. Oftentimes the bottles were color coded to the perfumes they contained: yellow for L'Acacia, green for Sweet Pea, purple for Orchid, white or green for Gardenia, red for Notchenka, gilded or red for Ghedma, red for Gerain, yellow for Cour de Russie.



    An unusual toilet water bottle also made by Cristalleries de Nancy was made in the opaque slag glass and stands 4 1/4" tall. The base is marked "Made in France".

    "Chin-Li," a DEPINOIX perfume bottle for Gabilla, circa 1924, in green glass with paper label, and silk box with printed underside. Ht. 2 5/8 in (6 cm)


    Baccarat 1925 Ybry Femme de Paris perfume bottle in green cased crystal, with enameled metal cover, with stopper, label, in box with Lalique glass pendant and tassel. 4 1/4 in.



    Gui C'est Paris by Duvelle: launched in 1925. This beautiful opaque glass bottle held toilet water and has a green glass stopper. Bottle stands 7.25" tall. There are no markings on the bottle.



    Espoir by Miga, launched in 1925, this ovoid bottle is in the shape of an ancient Chinese snuff bottle and is made up of green and white marbled opaque glass imitating jade. The bottle is molded with Chinese symbols and has a black glass button stopper. The bottle stands 2.6" tall. The base is molded with "Paris France".




    The perfume Lune de Miel was presented in a flacon designed and made by C. Depinoix & Fils. This bottle was also used by Benoit for their perfume Lune de Miel. The perfume bottle came in both black and greenish blue crystal, each is trimmed with silver enamel.




    Extracto Mariposa, nice opaque jade green glass bottle with translucent green glass ball stopper. Bottle most likely made by Cristalleries de Nancy. Base of bottle is marked France. The bottle stands 4.25" tall.



    "Le Debut Vert," a perfume bottle for Richard Hudnut, circa 1927, in opaque green glass with gilt stopper, side and bottom labels. Ht. 2 5/8 in (6.5 cm)



    1929 A. Jollivet, Cherigan Chance, perfume bottle and stopper, opaque green glass, silver finished stopper and applied glass horseshoe, molded label, box. 3 1/8 in.


    WORTH Three "Sans Adieu" perfume and lotion bottles in emerald green glass, France, ca. 1929; M p 952, no. 11; Molded R. LALIQUE; Largest: 5 3/4" x 4 1/4"



    1920s Rafin Caprice de Femme perfume bottle and stopper, cased green glass, gilt decoration and label. 3 3/4 in.



    1920s Depinoix, Marquis Fleurs de Grande Mere perfume bottle, cased green glass, black facet stopper, label. 4 1/4 in.


    1927 A. Jollivet, Pleville Plaisir d’Orient perfume bottle, opaque green glass (dragon molded on reverse), gilt glass stopper, label, drawer-slide box (missing tassel). Molded Jollivet mark. 3 1/4 in.


    1928 Baccarat, Myon Coeur de Femme perfume bottle, green cased crystal, glass stopper, brass cover and hanging label, green enamel. Baccarat mark. Box with matching enamel label. 3 1/2 in.





    Natalie Thurston Wrinkle Oil bottle made up of green malachite glass, with matching green glass stopper. This bottle dates to the 1930s and is unmarked as to manufacturer. Bottle stands 3.5" tall.



    La Nuit de Samedi by Serey, c1932. Size is approx 6"H x 1 1/2"W. Bottle by Cristalleries de Nancy.



    1932 Le Clairac For Ever perfume bottle and cover, green glass, black glass stopper, black enamel detail and labeling. Exclusively for El Encanto shop, Cuba. 2 5/8 in.


    1933 Ballarde three floral scents, perfume bottles and stoppers, blue-green glass, two labels, box. 3 in.






    Gardenia by Charbert, very rare presentation from 1935 with perfume bottle covered in mirrors back by green foil, the stopper also features a mirror, and a large faceted glass faux emerald. The bottle is housed inside of a green velvet covered box fitted with a silken tassel and a stepped base.





    Lionceau applied for the patent for their opaque glass bottles in 1927, the bottles can be found in different opaque colors for different scents. An advertisement of the era shown above states that this bottle was designed by Lalique, however, the bottles were actually manufactured by H. Saumont and not by Lalique. Bottles are marked "Made in France" on base. The bottles were made in several sizes from 5 7/8 "tall, 4" tall, 3 1/8 "tall and 2 1/2" tall.

    Curiously, a company called Erce had used the jade green bottle for their perfume Ever Green. These bottles are marked "Lionceau Paris France" on the base. It appears that Erce purchased the remaining bottles and boxes after Lionceau went out of business in 1935. 



    1936 Deltah Ecstasy perfume bottle, opaque green glass, black glass stopper, labels, faux pearl necklace, box made as two books: "Romance of Pearls" for the necklace; "Romance of Perfume" for the bottle. 3 3/8 in.



    Vent Fou by Carrere, launched in 1947, this beautiful jade green opaline pineapple shaped glass bottle features an ovoid hobnail design and a clambroth foot and umbrella like stopper. If it did not have it's cloth label, one might mistake it for a Victorian era Bohemian glass bottle.  The bottle stands 4.5" tall.



    1953 Schiaparelli Succes Fou figural perfume bottle and screw cap stopper, white opaline glass, green and gold enamel detail and labeling, silk lined box. 2 7/8 in.

    Bittersweet by Ed Pinaud c1930

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    Bittersweet by Pinaud: launched in 1930.


    Fragrance Composition:

    So what does Bittersweet smell like? I have no actual notes on this composition, but I just tested some on my skin from my own bottle and it is a dry citrus scent, very lemony with a spicy herbal tang.
    • Top notes: citrus, lemon
    • Middle notes: spice
    • Base notes: herbs


    Bottles:


    The most famous bottle for Ed Pinaud perfumes was the figural bottle based on the Gone With the Wind character, Scarlett O'Hara. The splash bottle holds 4.75 oz Eau de Cologne. The bottle is clear glass with a molded swirl pattern to simulate the draping sweep of a skirt and has a small ivory plastic screw cap molded with a flower pattern on the top. The top of the bottle is covered by a large molded plastic overcap in the shape of Scarlett O'Hara herself. This overcap has a thick, dull gold finish that usually ends up having either crazing and cracks or some scuffs here and there.

    The bottle measures just under 7.25" tall. This bottle originally held four different eau de cologne scents: Bittersweet, Magnolia, Apple Blossom and Flirt. The paper label on the base will identify the scent, but sometimes this label is missing. The Scarlett bottle was introduced in 1939 and was sold until 1942.



    American Druggist, 1940:
    "Pinaud of Paris and New York has obtained exclusive perfumer's rights to VIVIEN LEIGH Perfume in "the Wind" the use of all characters in the motion picture "Gone With the Wind," and has created a complete line of "Scarlett" toiletries to capitalize  on the expected two years or more popularity of the screen sensation. Besides perfumes, Pinaud has created a soap carved in the image of Scarlett O'Hara. Packages all bear autographed photos of Clark Gable and Vivien Leigh."

    Fate of the Fragrance:


    This vintage perfume has been discontinued, date unknown. 

    Fashion de Leonard c1970

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    Fashion de Leonard: launched in 1970. Created by Jeannine Mongin.





    Fragrance Composition:


    The original formula, made up of 28 essences, is classified as a crisp aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a feminine, sensual, powdery base.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, orange blossom
    • Middle notes: white lilac, carnation, ylang ylang, orris, jasmine, May rose
    • Base notes: melilot, musk, benzoin, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, cedar, ambergris and sandalwood


    Bottle:


    Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand in 1970. The bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval.



    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown.

    Fashion de Leonard was reformulated by Jacques Fraysse and relaunched in 1993, as a sweet Oriental floral fragrance for women with fruity notes.
    • Top notes are plum, green notes, tarragon, violet, raspberry, peach, bergamot, neroli and lemon
    • Middle notes are lilac, carnation, tuberose, iris, orchid, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
    • Base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver and cedar

    My Islands Colognes by Colton c1967

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    The My Islands colognes came out in 1967 as the women's counterpart to Nine Flags, and were also manufactured by Colton, distributed in the UK by Gillette. There were six different colognes named after famous islands.

     "Something happens to a girl on an island; My Islands colognes by Colton."




    Bottles:


    The acid frosted glass bottles held 2.5 fl oz and were squat and ribbed, and their bases came up like a dome into the bottle. These bottles could then be stacked one inside the other. The caps were the same brushed aluminum but had rounded tops so that they would fit the bases of one another. They were also available in an atomizer bottle. The bottles were designed by Massimo Vignelli.

    Design-Vignelli, 1990:
    "Nine Flags Cologne was a line of nine different fragrances sold in various combinations.  Defying the prevailing stereotype of the macho man, we addressed ourselves to men who likes fine instruments like cameras, microscopes, and hi-fi, and designed a line of containers resembling laboratory bottles overprotected by styrofoam boxes. My Islands " was born in 1967.  For this line we designed special bottles of acid-frosted glass that stacked one inside the other. They were packaged in hexagonal boxes of silver foil,  with the content description in large-size type. The packages were again a success, but not their contents, and eventually both lines were discontinued."




    Fragrances:

    • Majorca (a lush, tropical, pungent floral scent with notes of rose, almond blossom, jasmine and precious green aromatics and woods)
    • Corfu (a sultry oriental floral scent with notes of hyacinth, rose, muguet and ylang with smooth woodsy notes)
    • Barbados (a forest cool, rich green floral scent with notes of fruits, neroli, tuberose and jasmine)
    • Stromboli (a warm, velvety floral scent with notes of exotic smoky woods, musk and vibrant, flowers)
    • Skye (a light green meadow scent with notes of aldehydes, fresh cut grass, violets and soft heather)
    • Moorea (a warm, dry floral scent with notes of flowers, spices and incense)

    The Pittsburgh Courier, 1967:
    "MY ISLANDS COLOGNE. A package so new only a master like Massimo Vignelli could have designed it, with its unique six tiered array of etched glass frosted bottles, and only that exotic islands of Corfu, Moorea, Skye, Barbados, Majorca and Stromboli could have compounded these unique essences chosen for women by men. 
     As Spanish as Spain the lush, tropical, pungent florals of MAJORCA, one of six exotic My Islands scents photographed with the others against a background painting by HAHN VIDAL. Considered one of the foremost flower painters in the world, the artist has captured the craggy rocks, the deep red and creamy white roses, and the almond blossoms of this sun - kissed island in a gorgeous message of color.  
    Inspired by colognes, whose fragrance literally hints of their origins, Hahn Vidal has created paintings for all six scents. "My Islands" Cologne Goes Native Elegantly "My Islands". The mystique of six of the most interesting islands in the world has been captured by The Colton Company in six exquisite scents called "MY ISLANDS." Each fragrance is so precisely native it is literally a liquid massage from the island of its name. Incredibly, one can identify the islands they are named for by sniffing just a whisper of these six unique cologne.". The essences were actually compounded on and imported from the exotic islands whose names they bear.  
    There's the sultry voice of Corfu, the smoky message of Stromboli, the beckoning incense of Moorea, the misty charm of Skye, the lush tropics of Majorca and the rich florals of Barbados. The etched glass frosted bottles, packaged in a hexagonal box of dramatic silver and black, stack in an unusual tiered array. An eye catcher and a space saver, the entire visual concept is the creation of Massimo Vignelli, internationally known designer and winner of such awards as the Grand Prix, the Gold Medal at the Triennale of Milano. and the Gold Compass Award for Product Design.  
    The six scents are tinted with the silvery blues and greens of the island waters. CORFU ... is a sultry, exotic scent blending the oriental florals of hyacinth, rose, muguet and ylang with smooth woodsy . notes. Not quite like anything else your nose has known.  
    MAJORCA . . . Lush and tropical, the pungent florals of natural rose and jasmine are linked in this cologne with precious green aromatics. A heady scent, designed to make "him" spin.  
    STROMBOLI . . . Warm, musky tones of exotic woods erupting into a vibrant, velvety floral. Young and ripe at the same time, it belongs to the day or to arv evening mood.  
    SKYE ... As green as fresh - cut grass, as soft as the violets and heather of the misty Isle of Skye. This scent is as new as morning.  
    MOOREA . . . A sophisticated 4 floral with just a '' whisper of incense, hiding a million Secrets - , in its warm spicy fragrance. Here is a dry, lingering bouquet that could be you.  
    BARBADOS . . . There's a hint of delicate fruits in this dark green cologne whose rich florals of neroli, tuberose and jasmine meet and mingle to produce a ripe milieu.  
    Each of My Islands Colognes is individually packaged and is available in either liquid or an atomizer bottle. HAHN VIDAL, who is considered one of the best flower painters in the world, has created paintings to depict the flowers of the six islands. The wild roses, bougainvillaea, poinciana and other flora she has wooed to her canvas seem more alive than life."



    Fate of the Fragrances:


    These are very very rare compared to the Nine Flags colognes. I do not think they sold very well and were perhaps pulled from the market not long after they were launched. They were still being sold in 1975. These bottles are so few and far between that I have only seen 3 in my life.

    Asja by Fendi c1991

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    Asja by Fendi: launched in 1991, in association with Parma. It was created by Jean Guichard.



    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft oriental floral fragrance for women. 
    • Top notes: apricot, verbena, raspberry, peach, lemon,  bergamot, blackcurrant buds, Egyptian jasmine and ylang-ylang
    • Middle notes: orchid, orris root, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, honey, carnation, lily of the valley, mimosa, Bulgarian rose and cinnamon
    • Base notes: amber, cedar, styrax, musk, benzoin, sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla



    The initial idea for Asja was to create a soft oriental fragrance that women could feel comfortable wearing during anytime of the day, not just for evening. Doreen Bollhoffer, Elizabeth Arden's manager of fragrance development in 1995, explained Asja. "It differs from typical Oriental fragrances through it's 'fresher top note and lighter wood notes - sandalwood as opposed to patchouli for example'. And vanilla. 'It recalls a certain comfort level'".




    Bottles:


    Presented in black and gold-banded bottle designed by Pierre Dinand.

    Parfum:

    • 1 oz
    • 1/2 oz
    Eau de Parfum:

    • 2.5 oz (75ml) Splash
    • 2.5 oz (75ml) Spray
    • 1.3 oz (40ml) Spray
    • 1.3 oz (40ml) Splash
    • 0.17 oz (5ml) Splash Miniature

    Eau de Toilette:
    • 2.5 oz (75ml) Spray
    • 2.5 oz (75ml) Splash
    • 1.3 oz (40ml) Spray
    • 1.3 oz (40ml) Splash
    • 0.66 oz (20ml) Spray

    Bath & Body Products:
    • 5.2 oz (150g) Body Powder
    • 6.8 oz (200ml) Body Lotion
    • 6.8 oz (200ml) Shower Gel
    • 3.5 oz (100g) Soap






    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued before 2000, exact date unknown.



    Eau Cendree by Jacomo c1974

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    Eau Cendree by Jacomo: launched in 1974.  



    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh chypre fragrance for men. It begins with a fresh, herbaceous, spicy top punctuated with piment, followed by a dry, floral, spicy heart spiked with pepper, resting on a woody, mossy base of cypress.
    • Top notes: bergamot, nutmeg, lemon, coriander, petitgrain, lavender, tarragon
    • Middle notes: piment, green pepper, clary sage, carnation, cinnamon, geranium, cyclamen, orris, fern
    • Base notes: cypress, musk, amber, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood, labdanum, tonka bean

    Mademoiselle, 1979:
    "Jacomo's Eau Cendree strikes me as similar to the trio above but spicier. It is a man's scent, worn by a number of French and American women as their sports fragrance."

    Bottle:


    Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand in 1970. The bottle was manufactured by Saint Gobain Desjonqueres with plastic components supplied by Mayet.



    In 1974, Eau Cendree retailed for $8 for 2 oz of Eau de Toilette Splash, $13 for 6 oz of Eau de Toilette Splash,  $12 for 4 oz of Eau de Toilette Spray, with a spray refill of $10.

    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued. Still sold in 1992.


    Vers Toi by Worth c1934

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    Vers Toi by Worth: launched in 1934. Originally created by Maurice Blanchet.  The name means "Towards You" in French.




    Harper's Bazaar, 1956:
    "Paris Report: Worth • Another new French fragrance, this one from the house of Worth: '"Vers Toi." Named for its ability to take its final character from the wearer herself, it deepens beneath a fresh and radiant surface. One ounce, in a Lalique bottle. $18."

    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like?  I have no notes on the original composition. I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.
    • Top notes:
    • Heart notes: 
    • Base notes: 


      Bottles:


      Presented in a flacon made by René Lalique et Cie.




      Other bottles included various standard Worth bottles and tester bottles, not made by Lalique.


      Fate of the Fragrance:


      Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1965.

      Reformulated and relaunched in 2000.

      So what does it smell like? It is described as a light, soft, sporty floral perfume for women.
      • Top notes: aldehydes, verbena, bergamot and geranium
      • Heart notes: jasmine, lily of the valley and rose
      • Base notes: benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood and vanilla


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