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Ecco by Princess Marcella Borghese c1960

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Ecco by Princess Marcella Borghese: launched in 1960.


Ecco was available in the following products:

  • Parfum (Profumo)
  • Perfume Oil
  • Eau de Parfum Spray
  • Natural Spray Cologne (Acqua di Profumo)
  • Cologne Splash
  • Solid Perfume Compact
  • Dusting Powder
  • Milk Bath


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women with the light, vibrant scent of fresh spring flowers and herbs. It is warm and feminine, lasts well, and is so redolent of sun-soaked summer gardens that you almost expect the bees to follow you

  • Top notes: herbs
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose
  • Base notes: amber, musk, sandalwood


Playbill, 1960:
"Among the leading new-comers now making first appearances in this or any country is Ecco, the Princess Marcella Borghese's impressively original perfume. This, as you might suppose, is an opulent mixture, worldly and sophisticated. It is also, however, extremely subtle.  (But don't be misled, the come-hither is none the less persuasive for being unobtrusive.)"

Harper's Bazaar, 1967:
"Carrara marble inspired the elegantly contemporary new packages for Princess Mar-cella Borghese Perfumes — a natural choice to project the pure Romanesque enchantment of these fascinating fragrances. Inside the lightly- veined marbleized packages, graceful clean-cut bottles hold two beloved perfumes: Ecco. for the eternal woman, a blend of herbs with notes of jasmine and rose; and Fiamma, a fiery brilliancy that is indefinably feminine ad sophisticated. In either scent. Princess Marcella Borghese Perfume Oil. 1 oz $6.75. Acqua di Profumo, 2 oz $6.50. At Bonwit Teller."

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1987.



May & Malone Compacts c1931 Advertisement

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Compacts shown in an advertisement in a 1931 May & Malone catalog page. One of them is by La Mode, the others are not named by manufacturer. You can see some lipstick compact sets, ance compacts with swinging handles, vanities, double compacts, etc. Also a "Cig-Vannette" by Mondaine. Some are engine turned, enameled, etc. Nice Eastern Star enameled compact also shown below.


















original image by ebay seller gdawg

Support Breast Cancer Awareness with Beauty

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Support breast cancer awareness with these limited edition items from brands that donate a portion of their sales to breast cancer research and awareness.
breast cancer



Evelyn Lauder and Elizabeth Hurley team up for a limited-edition collection that helps raise awareness that early detection saves lives.

  With every purchase of the Modern Muse Solid Perfume Keychain, Estée Lauder will donate 100% of the suggested retail price to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation from September 2015 through June 2016.

Modern Muse is the fragrance that captures your style, your confidence and your creative spirit with an alluring contrast of sparkling florals and sleek, sensual woods.



'Smell the Roses' Hydration Spray (Limited Edition). All profits from the sales of Smell the Roses Hydration Spray are donated to Living Beyond Breast Cancer.

Smell the Roses Hydration Spray by jane iredale gives you a quick pick-me-up whenever you need it. The facial spritz contains rose flower oil and extracts to calm and support your skin’s function while its rosy fragrance refreshes and lifts your mood. Organic rose damascena flower water is an excellent skin tonic, cleansing the skin without disturbing its natural protective shield, while rose damascena flower oil and extracts penetrate deep into the layers of your skin, nourishing, tightening, cleansing, detoxifying and increasing blood circulation all while calming and supporting the skin’s functions.

How to use: Lightly mist onto your face from about an arm’s length away whenever your skin feels dry or when exposed to a drying atmosphere. It can also be used to set minerals and help conceal pores and fine lines, to moisturize oily skin, to use on makeup brushes to intensify eyeshadows or as static control for your hair. 3.04 oz. Suitable for all skin types, especially dry and sensitive skin.

All profits from the sales of Smell the Roses Hydration Spray are donated to Living Beyond Breast Cancer.


'Evelyn Lauder & Elizabeth Hurley Dream Pink' Collection (Limited Edition). Evelyn Lauder and Elizabeth Hurley team up for a limited-edition collection filled with gorgeous products housed in a pretty pink bag with a removable strap. The collection was created to honor Evelyn Lauder's dream of eradicating breast cancer in our lifetime.With every purchase of the Evelyn Lauder and Elizabeth Hurley Dream Pink Collection, Estée Lauder will donate 20% of the suggested retail price to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation from September 2015 through June 2016.

Collection includes:
- Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Tumultuous Pink (0.12 oz.)
- Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Powerful (0.12 oz.)
- Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Rebellious Rose (0.12 oz.)
- Pink Bag

'The Breast Cancer Awareness' Lip Balm (Limited Edition). Thinner than any other area of the face, your lips are virtually defenseless against subtle changes in wind, temperature and dryness, which means they require special attention. This limited-edition lip balm has a luxurious and intensely reparative formula that works on contact to soften roughness, relieve discomfort and help rejuvenate seriously dry lips. A potent concentration of the brand's nutrient-rich Miracle Broth™ renews the delicate lip area while a patented Lip Lipid Complex delivers moisture and strengthens lips' moisture barrier to help prevent further damage. It's also flavored with cool, refreshing mint.

0.32 oz.
By La Mer.




'Precision in Pink' Neon Classic Lash Curler (Limited Edition). TWEEZERMAN introduces the
Precision in Prink Neon Classic Lash Curler in honor of its 2015 Breast Cancer Awareness Precision in Pink campaign. This year, the BCA beauty tool is the padded version of the brand's top-selling Classic Lash Curler which has cushioned handles for a slip-resistant grip and a comfortable feel. The silicone lash pad is thick and round to form a dramatic curl without ever creasing lashes. Super stylish, the handles and pads are outfitted in neon pink and adorned with an attractive attached charm.
By TWEEZERMAN.

A portion of the proceeds from the sale of each Precision in Pink Neon Classic Lash Curler will be donated to breast cancer organizations.


Estée Lauder 'Evelyn Lauder Dream Collection' Pin. This pink enamel collectible pin is a simple, elegant way to show your support for those affected by breast cancer, and wearing it helps raise awareness that early detection saves lives.

With each purchase of the Evelyn Lauder Dream Collection Pin, Estée Lauder will donate 20% of the suggested retail price to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation.










'Eau Rose' Eau de Toilette Rollerball. A fragrance that pays tribute to the queen of flowers, the rose. The sharp, fresh scents of bergamot and black currant mix with precious centofilia and damask roses. To make the scent more sensual, the base notes are infused with white musk and cedar.

0.7 oz.
By diptyque.








Great Skin, Great Cause - Dramatically Different' Moisturizing Lotion+ Make a dramatic difference with the purchase of Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+, Clinique's world-famous moisturizer. Clinique will donate $10 from the purchase of this product to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ combines all-day hydration with skin-strengthening ingredients to help your skin look younger, longer. This special-edition version of the dermatologist-developed moisturizer features a Clinique signature pink ribbon key chain.

How to use: Use twice a day, morning and night. Apply to face and throat all over or where needed. Cleansed, exfoliated skin accepts moisture better. For best results, apply as the last step in the brand's 3-Step Skincare routine. A little goes a long way.

- 6.7 oz.



'Think Pink' Pro-Collagen Marine Cream (Limited Edition.) Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream is the ultimate anti-aging skincare treatment cream clinically proven to reduce the appearance of wrinkle depth and increase hydration and moisture levels. It provides a progressive lifting effect through increased collagen support.

How to use: Apply every morning and evening to cleansed and toned skin.




Colors include:
- I Pink I Can
- Pink Happy
- Pink About You
- Grow Stronger Base Coat
0.16 oz. each. DBP-free; toluene-free; formaldehyde-free. By essie.



Aveda 'hand relief™ - Breast Cancer Research Foundation' Moisturizer (Limited Edition). Make a difference while moisturizing with Aveda's hand relief™ crème, an incredibly rich formula designed to soothe dry, chapped hands. Its blend of plant emollients and humectants delivers optimal hydration to your skin, while fruit acids provide much-needed exfoliation. Antioxidants including vitamins A and E diminish signs of aging, providing optimal relief and leaving hands noticeably softer and smoother. Not only deeply moisturizing, it does good, too. With each sale of this special-edition version of hand relief™, Aveda will donate $4 toward the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.


Hanae Mori 'Eau de Collection N° 7' Eau de Toilette. The season's most luscious creation from France is a fragrance inspired by Paris desserts and confections and the pleasing, indulgent satisfaction they provide. The aroma of fresh fruit, a daring hint of French pastry and the charm of exotic flowers comprise Hanae Mori Eau de Collection No. 7, the last in a limited-edition series, and a guilt-free gourmand indulgence every woman will savor. 3.4 oz.











Clinique Pink with a Purpose Blush. Vibrant yet natural-looking, Cheek Pop Blush is a silky-smooth, stay-true formula that looks virtually powderless on your cheeks. The ophthalmologist-tested, allergy-tested formula is completely fragrance-free.- 0.12 oz.

How to use: Swirl color onto your favorite blush brush and sweep over the apples of your cheeks. Gently blend color up toward your cheekbones and temples. Build to desired brightness.Your purchase of this limited-edition Cheek Pop Blush in Berry Pop with a carrying case includes a $3.00 donation to support The Breast Cancer Research Foundation.


Afterglow Organic Infused Hydra Gloss. Get glossy, naturally dewy lips on the go! Your lips have never looked or felt better! All natural Organic Infused Hydra Gloss will add shine, incredible moisture, and amazing color without the chemicals and stickiness of other commercial glosses. These long wearing glosses moisturize your lips with bioactive botanicals, such as organic aloe vera and vanilla oil, while adding natural color and sexy shine. Afterglow has pledged to donate $2 of every purchase of our Organic Infused Hydra Gloss in CIRQUE to help support women under 40 diagnosed with breast cancer.
  • Available in 8 luscious, highly pigmented shades
  • Moisturizing, nourishing, and long lasting
  • Infused with soothing organic botanicals
  • NO parabens, nanos, bismuth oxychloride, gluten, or talc
  • 100% natural ingredients


Anti-inflammatory, caffeine rich green tea and coffee improves the appearance of puffy under-eyes, and brightens dark circles. Concentrated with potent anti-aging vitamins, antioxidants, and nourishing rosehip oil to make eye area appear more awake and more youthful. Truly, 100% Pure.


Ahava Mineral Hand Cream - Cactus & Pink Pepper

Enriched with refreshing witch hazel and infused with the fresh, uplifting combination of Cactus & Pink Pepper. For the month of October, 20% of proceeds will benefit the National Breast Cancer Foundation. 


This Mineral-rich hand cream is specially formulated to protect hands while providing relief and nourishment. Blended with Dead Sea minerals and infused with the fresh, uplifting scent of Cactus & Pink Pepper, this hand cream gently and effectively softens rough, dry skin and improves moisture levels while Protecting and smoothing hands. Witch Hazel extracts sanitizes and smoothes skin, providing a refreshing, revitalizing effect Allantoin heals dry cracked skin and blemishes



Nugg Pink Ribbon Collection for Breast Cancer Awareness. A special collection of Nügg masks, featuring 2 Hydrating face masks and 2 Deep Cleansing face masks. $2 from each Pink Ribbon Collection sold will go to Cancer + Careers, an organization that helps empower and educate women who are suffering with cancer in their workplace. 








Armour V & It's for Me - Special Edition Lip Gloss. As lovers of beauty, we can't think of a better—or more fun—way to raise awareness for breast cancer than by purchasing this long-lasting Armour lipgloss.

 The special edition gloss was inspired by iconic comedian/actress Gilda Radner, who passed away in 1989 from ovarian cancer. All profits go to Gilda's Club NYC, whose mission is to support families living with cancer. Not only does this lipgloss support a good cause, it's just seriously good stuff! The bright pink gloss provides both bold color and shine that LASTS, and—since it's packed with lip-loving ingredients—won't dry out your pout.








Apothia Limited Edition Pink IF Roll-On Oil. • Light, fresh scent. This sparkling scent opens with a dazzling bouquet of white flowers, notes of zesty grapefruit and sparkling yuzu, and ends in a deep, musky drydown. IF is a fresh, clean, light, and sensual fragrance.
• Long-lasting. The super long-wearing scent stays fresh throughout the day.
• Special edition. This limited edition rollerball comes packaged in a special pink silicone sleeve, and which is produced in limited quantities. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to Breast Cancer Research during Breast Cancer Awareness Month in October.







Arcona Magic Pink Ice. A daily hydrating gel that deeply moisturizes without clogging pores, protects against environmental damage and leaves skin fresh and dewy. 

With every purchase of Magic Pink Ice, ARCONA will donate 25% to Cancer and Careers—an organization that offers support for people with cancer who are trying to manage both their cancer and their career. 












June Jacobs Rapid Repair Healing Cream. A revolutionary, clinically-tested face and body cream that helps soothe irritation, fight signs of aging and provide 24-hour moisturization. While an anti-aging regime is a necessity for all - we're all aging right? - for some of us it feels more like a chore. 

Rapid Repair Healing Cream takes the time out of your routine, providing a multi-purpose product that works wonders for face, body, and even hands. Keeping skin smooth, soft and youthful-looking, this cream is loaded with moisturizing shea butter and natural botanical extracts—packing an anti-aging punch. Its potent of cocktail of antioxidants protects your paws from damaging free radicals while minimize signs of aging. And—as an added bonus—during the month of October, 25% of the net proceeds will be donated to the Anne Moore Breast Cancer Research Fund.


Sexy Hair Healthy Sexy Hair Renewal Nourishing Styling Treatment reduces blow dry time and helps smooth, hydrate and fight frizz! breast cancer awareness edition












Monthly breast self exams are an essential part of early breast cancer detection and prevention. FaRose is an all-natural oil that makes the self exam routine more comfortable. Like most busy moms my shower is my escape - my time alone. With FaRose you don’t have to wait until you are in the shower to perform a self exam.





butter LONDON - 3 Free Nail Lacquer - Primrose Hill Picnic - A tropical, fuchsia pink creme. Will make you want to take off your shoes and run barefoot through the office. A modern icon that symbolizes breast cancer awareness.

butter LONDON's highly-pigmented lacquers are created for the catwalk and formulated to nourish and protect nails. Create bespoke looks with countless colors and finishes. butter LONDON does not add formaldehyde, toluene, or DBP to any of its nail formulas. It's color without compromise.






Oribe Limited Edition Dry Texturizing Spray for Breast Cancer Awareness. This dry texturizing spray hits all the marks. Wheat proteins and Pro-Vitamin B5 thicken strands and add volume while aloe juice nourishes and boosts shine. Natural flower extracts defend hair from environmental damage as zeolite crystals absorb dirt and oils like a dry shampoo. 











Birchbox Power Pose Limited Edition Beauty Box. This box is filled with iconic beauty brands from The Estée Lauder Companies—all of which are devoted to defeating breast cancer. Subscribe by October 24th to get it as your first delivery. Supplies are limited.







GLAMGLOW® CURESEXY: Breast Cancer Care Edition. there’s nothing CURE SEXY doesn't do – feel the tingle as it works its magic on your skin:
  • Skin Collagen Synthesis for a noticeable 3 day glow.
  • Brighter, radiant skin in minutes.
  • Leaves skin noticeably soft and smooth.
  • Multi-level resurfacing exfoliation.
  • Penetrates into the deepest layers of the skin to soften fine lines and wrinkles. 
  • Tightens, tones and lifts the skin. 
  • Relives dark circles and minimises pores. 
  • Absorbs impurities without removing natural oils.


Bobbi Brown Peony Set, Breast Cancer Awareness. What is it? Pretty with a purpose—introducing the Breast Cancer Awareness Peony Set. Includes Bobbi's silky powder blush in Peony, the perfect pop of color for a gorgeous, natural-looking flush. Also includes a Mini Face Blender Brush with a pink handle.  When you purchase this limited-edition set, Bobbi Brown will donate $12 of every sale to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. 




















This modern formula represents the ideal balance of sheer yet vivid color and rich texture with a weightless finish. It's a super-chic accessory in itself.






Lab Series Skincare For Men Age Rescue+ Face Lotion, Breast Cancer Research Foundation Edition. Anti-age treatment helps fight the look of wrinkles and fatigue. Energized with Ginseng. 

20% from this purchase of Age Rescue+ Face Lotion will be donated to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation® (BCRF) from September 1, 2015—December 31, 2015. BCRF, founded by Evelyn H. Lauder, is dedicated to advancing the world's most promising research to eradicate breast cancer in our lifetime.








La Mer The Hand Treatment, Breast Cancer Research Fund. For every purchase of this limited-edition Hand Treatment, La Mer will donate a portion of the proceeds to the Breast Cancer Research Fund. This silky, soothing formula creates an emollient barrier to help heal even the driest skin.











Darphin's best selling INTRAL Redness Relief Soothing Serum, now available in two sizes - 30ml and 50ml. This high potency, soothing serum helps reduce the appearance of redness and instantly quiet discomforts associated with irritated skin. This delightfully scented formula softens sensitive skin and leaves a comforted, more even-looking complexion. Throughout the month of October, Darphin will donate £5 from the purchase of the Limited Edition Intral Serum to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation® to help prevent and cure breast cancer by advancing the world's most promising research. For more information on The Breast Cancer Research Foundation® (BCRF) and The Estée Lauder Companies 2015 BCA Campaign visit http://bcacampaign.com/


Limited edition DHC Beauty Is Power Set benefits the National Breast Cancer Foundation and features an 8-piece makeup brush kit in a dual-sided cosmetic bag—exclusive to this set—and Moisture Care Liquid Lipcolor in Pink Sands.

Each set also comes with 10 specially selected samples:
  • Eye Wrinkle Stick
  • Face Wash
  • Retino A Essence
  • Tocophero E Cream
  • Olive Leaf Milk
  • Q10 Moisture Care Liquid Foundation
  • CoQ10 Face Milk
  • Camu-Camu White Day Milk SPF 20
  • Beauty Lift Lotion
  • Beauty Lift Cream
  • Moisture Care Liquid Lipcolor: 2.2 oz. Net wt.

Origins Make A Difference™ Rejuvenating hand treatment.

The resurrection plant Rose of Jericho, plus skin-reviving Trehalose and Sea Harictos work hand-in-hand to help hardworking skin rebound and recover from dramatic dehydration in Origins Make A Difference™ rejuvenating hand treatment. Dermatologist Tested.

Ancient Oceanic Flora helps minimize the appearance of damage due to UV exposure, daily use and constant abuse. Meadowfoam Seed Oil lavishes hands that have it rough with smoothness that's never greasy. Dry skin resumes a softer, brighter, more evenly toned, more youthfully textured look and feel. Leaves an elegant, silky feel on skin. Forms an undetectable barrier.

Bobbi Brown Breast Cancer Awareness Collection French Pink Set. 

This exclusive set honors Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Between October 1, 2013 and March 31, 2014, Bobbi will be donating $10 of every sale to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Featuring a French Pink Blush embossed with a BCA ribbon in a mirrored compact. Includes a Mini Face Blender Brush topped off with a bright pink handle. A fun way to put on a rosy glow (and show your support).












Nest Fragrances Passion Breast Cancer Awareness Candle/8.1 oz. Created in honor of the Breast Cancer Research Foundation, PASSION combines the essences of blooming peony, dewy garden roses and warm sandalwood with a hint of flowering pittosporum, Evelyn Lauder's beloved fragrance note. 

10% of the retail price of each piece sold will be donated to support the work of the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. 50-60 hours burn time. Made in USA. 8.1 oz.




NEST Fragrances will donate 10% of the retail price of each PASSION Reed Diffuser purchased to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation.
















Debbi Lip Gloss by Too Faced. Inspired by Too Faced Co-Founders’ Jerrod Blandino & Jeremy Johnson's brave stepmother Debbi, who is currently battling breast cancer, 20 percent of the sales of this dazzling ribbon pink gloss will help raise funds for mammogram screening services for patients in need. 
















Essie - Yes We Can, Pink! Wear pink this October...on your fingers and toes in an effort to raise breast cancer awareness. To join in the fight against the powerful disease, essie cosmetics has created Yes We Can, Pink!, a new nail color, for which a portion of the proceeds will be donated to Living Beyond Breast Cancer (LBBC), a non-profit organization dedicated to empowering women affected by the disease. Contains No Formaldehyde, DBP or Toluene.










Perfumania will donate $1 to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation with the Purchase of Select Fragrances!

Breast Cancer Awareness Month: $19 Blanket Wrap With Your Beauty Purchase. Shop And Give Back At Lord & Taylor! 


 Help benefit awareness and research of breast cancer by shopping The Pink Shop at Macy's! 


  In Support Of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Save 25% On All Tools And We Will Donate 5% Of All Proceeds! Shop Now at Clear Rayz!


Save 10% & Find the Cure with code THINKPINK at BeautyCareChoices.com. Each purchase supports the Susan G. Komen breast cancer foundation.


Spend $40 at Jewel Scent, Receive a Breast Cancer Awareness Watch. Oct. 7 - Nov. 6. Code: SPREADHOPE


October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Join TrophySkin in the fight. 10% off on MICRODERMMD + We will donate another 10% of MicrodermMD sales during the month of October to http://breastcancer.org


Lippmann Collection Nail Color Shape of My...
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Susan G. Komen For The Cure Promise Me Eau...
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Iso Daily Shape "Pink" 14 oz
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Iso Daily Finish "Pink" 14 oz
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Hempz Lips "Pink" 0.44 oz
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Bicycle Playing Cards, Standard, The Breas...
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Bio Ionic Breast Cancer Awareness Freestyle 1" Iron

Mystere by D'Orsay c1915

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Mystere by D'Orsay: launched in 1915.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic oriental fragrance for women with a warm woody chypre base.
  • Top notes: bergamot and ginger
  • Middle notes: cinnamon, rose, geranium
  • Base notes: patchouli, oakmoss, musk, amber, vanilla, spices, sandalwood, leather

Bottles:














Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1950.


Ritz by Charles of the Ritz c1972

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Ritz by Charles of the Ritz: launched in 1972. Not to be confused with the 1977 perfume Charles of the Ritz by Charles of the Ritz.


The Ritz line was housed in shiny aluminum canisters with a silver checkerboard pattern and a burgundy band. Small bottles were clear glass. The Ritz Light Perfume was housed in the same containers.

 The Charles of the Ritz by Charles of the Ritz perfume was housed in burgundy canisters.

Ritz was available in the following products:

  • 2 oz Perfume
  • 2 oz Perfume Spray
  • 2 oz Double Perfume
  • 1/4 oz Triple Perfume Pencelle
  • 4 oz Perfume Powder Spray
  • 7 oz Perfumed Dusting Powder 
  • 3 oz Perfumed Body Powder
The Perfume Pencelle worked much like a magic marker, a little sponge tip applicator inside of an aluminum tube to leave a trace of Ritz perfume on the skin.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an intense floral chypre fragrance for women with woodsy overtones.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
  • Middle notes: rose, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, musk, vetiver and violet leaves


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

In 1976, Ritz Light Perfume was introduced.



Perfumes Isabell

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Robert Isabell, society party planner and floral designer extraordinaire was looking for something a bit more durable that would keep his business on the stable side and launched a series of fragrances in 1996.

 His idea was to make a product that didn't smell artificial and after several years of experimentation, he found Swiss research chemist Roman Kaiser at Givaudan-Roure who had devised a way to replicate natural scents using headspace technology instead of mixing fragrances from essential oils. After several months of flying back and forth to Switzerland, he settled on five fragrances in which he insisted on releasing at once, a rather unconventional marketing decision.



These were Calla Isabell, (slightly spicy), Attar Isabell, (sensuous and smoldering), Savanna Isabell, (a springlike blend of white flowers), Ceylon Isabell, (exotic Southeast Asian blooms), and Mandarin Isabell, (clean and citrusy).

Each blend was a closely guarded secret, containing a high concentration of rare, delicate, exotic floral scents from around the world, with no other notes to dilute the dazzling effect and was done with the same good taste Isabell used in his actual flower arrangements.

He decided to package his perfumes in lab-style bottles of extruded optical glass that he himself has designed. The perfumes were available in two sizes: 1.7 oz and 2.6 oz and ancillary products, a shower gel and body lotion were also added. Soon, candles, which used the essence of flowers in simple, clear glass pillars were added to the fragrance line.

With $15 million dollar advertising with the Albrecht Group, direct mail and inventory, Perfumes Isabell Corp.was born and was placed in the upscale shops: Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales and Saks Fifth Avenue. He then set up a toll free number for direct sales and two years later in the early days of the internet, he launched isabell.com.

Isabell recruited 36 year old Matthew Bronfman (Seagrams heir) to be his CEO, but the partnership had soured. Dallas Haden, an industry veteran was enlisted by Isabell as a fragrance-marketing consultant, was called in to tone down the over the top business plan, and she mentioned that "part of my job was to bring some reality to Robert's goals." "It's a little art, it's a little science, it's a little inspiration," said Merle Gordon, a partner in the company, in reference to names that include Calla, Savanna and Attar.

A huge launch party for the fragrance line was held December 9, 1996 at the Mondrian Hotel in West Hollywood, California, and included such guests as actress Molly Ringwald, Loni Anderson, Bond girl Famke Janssen, and supermodel Bridget Hall. On the East Coast however, his fragrances premiered at the art-filled bayfront home of Lee Schrager. In keeping with the flowers featured in the fragrances, each room was decorated in a single floral theme with flickering candles and fizzy champagne was flowing to the delight of the partygoers.

Within a couple years,  Isabell drew back from the company and Haden acquired the brand for herself. A close friend of Isabell, the artist Jennifer Bartlett stated that Robert "really thought it would be a fantastic success, and it was disappointing...but he would never show his disappointment. Robert was not a complainer," and he moved onto real estate instead of pursuing his fragrance venture.

Robert Isabell passed away on July 5, 2009.

The Fragrances:



Attar: a spicy oriental floral fragrance for men and women. "Sensuous. The exotic richness of legendary flowers. A mysterious, sophisticated fragrance."
  • Top notes: lemon and ylang ylang
  • Middle notes: cloves, rose, carnation, jasmine
  • Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, frankincense, incense, amber, musk


Calla: a spicy floral fragrance for women. "Spicy flowers in a sheer, creamy veil. A fragrance that is simply beautiful and regal."
  • Top notes; arum lily
  • Middle notes: flowers
  • Base notes:  amber, spices, vanilla


Ceylon: a lush floral fragrance for women. "Exotically beautiful flowers growing around the sacred temples of lush Southeast Asia. A sensuous and utterly modern fragrance."
  • Top notes: exotic fruits
  • Middle notes: white flowers, orange blossom, cannonball tree flowers
  • Base notes: tea, spices, incense, resins


Mandarin: a light green citrus aromatic fragrance for women. "The fresh, clean, magical and natural aura surrounding the mandarin
  • Top notes: amalfi lemon, lime, mandarin orange, tangerine and juniper
  • Middle notes: broom, jasmine, orange blossom, cinnamon leaf, birch leaf, and pomelo
  • Base notes: gurjun balsam, musk and sandalwood


Savanna: sheer floral fragrance for women. "White flowers of Spring caught in glorious full bloom. A sheer, feminine, honest fragrance."
  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes: white flowers
  • Base notes:

Fate of the Fragrances:


I believe these were discontinued not long after being released (still sold in 2002).

In 1997, a limited edition votive candle, Lemon Honeysuckle, was created for Bloomingdales. Other candles were added to the Perfumes Isabell line: Nightbloom, Flowering Lemon, White Gingerlily Frangipani, and Green Elysium.



In 1999, a new fragrance, Paperwhites was released with its candle and Shimmering Bath Lights. Described as "lush white flowers blooming along sun-swept hills of the Mediterranean." It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance created by Robert Isabell with notes of lemon, pomelo, mandarin, lime, orange blossom, cinnamon leaf, birch leaf, juniper berry, jasmine, gurjum balsam, sandalwood and musk. Presented in a bottle designed by Takaai Matusmoto.

By 2000, other candles in a new line called Fresh Cuttings were offered, these include: Hedgeblooms, the clean energizing flavor of tender flowerlets, leaves and stems; Sunblooms, the scent of a perfectly cloudless, golden ripe midsummer afternoon; Sky Blooms, which creates a powder-soft sheer atmosphere; Passion Blossoms, exuding a sensuous, spice-laden darker-than-wine aroma; Party Blooms, the aroma of a midsummer garden; Blush Blooms, a uniquely sweet, feminine and delicate floral aroma; and Night Blooms, a seductive, steady lingering fragrance that conjuring up mysterious Night-blooming flowers, will gradually ignite the senses created for a couples bedroom retreat. . 






Calvin Klein by Calvin Klein c1978

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Calvin Klein by Calvin Klein: launched in 1978 along with a complete makeup and skincare collection. This is also known as Calvin Klein (red) by collectors.




Barry K. Schwartz, Calvin Klein’s childhood pal, had loaned Klein $10,000 dollars to set up Calvin Klein, Ltd, a cloak and suit firm and later joined Klein as an equal partner.

Soon the company was eager to join the designer fragrance world and the first decision had to be made was the selection of the scent. At first, the designer had considered licensing his name to a major cosmetics company such as Revlon, who offered him a big deal in 1975. Revlon assigned one of its top executives, Stanley Kohlenberg, to convince Klein to license his name to Revlon. Klein listened politely to the proposal, and realized he would have virtually no control over the product. Klein wanted to control every aspect of the product while Schwartz wanted all of the profits. So in order to compromise, they decided to open their own company, Calvin Klein Cosmetics, and hired Kohlenberg, who was then an executive vice-president of Revlon, who left the company to work for Calvin Klein in 1977, to run the cosmetics division.

To find out what perfumes Calvin Klein preferred, Kohlenberg stated that he “bought every fragrance in the United States, masked them, and sprayed him with three a day. he hated everything except for musk.” So armed with this knowledge, Kohlenberg asked International Flavors and Fragrances , the famous company known as IFF who specialized in making perfumes, to develop the Calvin Klein signature scent. Kohlenberg reasoned that because Klein was so new to the fragrance world, going with an established fragrance house was the safer way to go. Klein assembled a group of employees and outside colleagues to test it out, including Baron de Gunzburg and an early fan of Klein’s, Carrie Donovan from The New York Times. It is reported that when the baron wrinkled his nose after smelling the sample, Klein dismissed the scent and the rest of the Calvin Klein advisers had rejected it.

Not deterred, an aide for Calvin Klein, Frances Stein, had found a fragrance in a small custom parfumerie in Paris that Klein actually liked, but it would be very expensive to recreate. Calvin Klein went with his gut reaction, and ordered Kohlenberg to copy the floral scented perfume that he and Stein preferred, and IFF got Kohlenberg’s permission to offer the rejected perfume to competitor Ralph Lauren who was interested in launching his own signature scent for women that year.

In the meantime, both designers Lauren and Klein were negotiating with several department stores that wanted to be the first to introduce their lines. Bloomingdale’s had set a date in early 1978 for Lauren and offered to launch the Calvin Klein fragrance a week later in February.

Kohlenberg reminisces “Calvin couldn’t break after Ralph, so we went to Saks who relied on a sexy advertising campaign, distinctly different than the theme that Ralph Lauren was using at Bloomingdale's. The Calvin Klein perfume retailed for $85 an ounce and a quarter ounce was set at $25.

A week later Barry called me screaming - his usual tone of voice.” with the news that Lauren’s fragrance was outselling Klein’s. Kohlenberg asked Schwartz if he had a chance to smell Lauren’s competing fragrance, “Have you smelled it?” Just five minutes later, Schwartz called back, screaming even more “This is OUR fragrance!” Kohlenberg reminded Schwartz “We turned it down.” This fragrance turned out to be the Ralph Lauren megahit, Lauren for women.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It was described as "lightweight and rosy".

  • Top notes: aldehydes hyacinth, gardenia, peach, raspberry
  • Middle notes: clove bud oil, carnation, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, orris
  • Base notes: violet leaves, sandalwood, cedarwood, oakmoss, musk, amber

Fate of the Fragrance:


The first Calvin Klein perfume was an unexpected flop and was Klein’s first business failure. By November 1979, the shrewd businessman Schwartz abruptly ordered Kohlenberg to close the cosmetics company, fire the staff and cancel the airplane tickets of salesmen who were on the road. It is estimated that Klein and Schwartz lost about $4 million in their first fragrance venture. Klein goes on to say that “It didn’t work because I did it with my own company and I didn’t know what I was doing, I lost a lot of money.”

The owner of Minnetonka Industries, Robert Taylor, had approached Klein and wanted to buy the Calvin Klein Cosmetics label. After a series of difficult negotiations, a deal was finally reached in 1980. Minnetonka would have permission to use the Calvin Klein name to sell a new and improved line of fragrance and cosmetics that they would manufacture. Calvin Klein, a licensor, would retain control over the product and its branding and collect a significant royalty. 

Minnetonka relaunched the Calvin Klein perfume and by 1981 it could be found in various forms. The 1 oz parfum retailed for $90.00, the 4 oz Cologne Natural Spray retailed for $37.50, and the 2 oz Cologne sold for $18.50.







Norell by Norell c1968

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Norell by Norell: launched in 1968 in association with Revlon. Created by Josephine Catapano.



Norell, the first American designer fragrance, was a high end perfume, matching the French perfumes in terms of quality and packaging.

It was introduced in 1968 via a lavish social and promotional event at Bonwit Teller starting with a black-tie supper dance that took up two floors in the store. With the show and cocktails on the fourth floor and the sixth floor turned into a discotheque for supper and dancing.

Norell sold for $50 an ounce during its debut and was declared an "instant success"that grossed $1 million in sales its first year.  

In 1974 Norell perfume sales were running at $10 million a year and "the most expensive lipstick in the market" was introduced that fall under the Norell name at $7.50 ( a refill cost $3.75). 

By 1978, its price of Norell parfum rose to $60 an ounce and in 1984, it went up to $75 an ounce (contrast to Chanel No. 5 which was only $55 per ounce). In 1993, one ounce of Norel parfum cost $150.

Norell was available in the following products:
  • 1/16 oz Parfum (Micro Mini)
  • 1/8 oz Parfum (Mini)
  • 1/4 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • Touch Perfume Concentrate (Roll On)
  • 0.2 oz Perfume Purse Spray
  • 0.4 oz Parfum Purse Spray
  • 1/2 oz Perfume Spray
  • Luxury Perfume Spray
  • 0.23 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (Mini)
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 2.25 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 0.3 oz Cologne Spray
  • 1.25 oz Cologne Spray 
  • 1.75 oz Cologne Spray
  • 2.25 oz Cologne Spray
  • 2.5 oz Cologne Spray
  • 2.25 oz Cologne Splash
  • 4 oz Cologne Splash
  • 8 oz Cologne Splash
  • Cologne Spray Concentrate
  • Perfumed Body Lustre Lotion
  • Perfumed Dusting Powder
  • 6 oz Perfumed Bath Powder
  • 8 oz Perfumed Bath Oil
  • 8 oz Perfume Milk Bath
  • 4 oz Elegant Body Powder
  • 8 oz Elegant Body Lotion
  • 8 oz Elegant Bathing Gel
  • 8.25 oz Elegant Body Creme
  • Soap
  • Solid Perfume (1/8 oz Concentrated Perfume Pillbox)
  • Solid Perfume (1/8 oz Perfume in a Pot)
  • Solid Perfume (0.25 oz Perfume Basketweave Pillbox)




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. It is a floral with green overtones, fresh, not heavy, described by Norell as a fragrance with a kick to it.
  • Top notes: lavender, mandarin orange, galbanum, hyacinth, bergamot, narcissus and lemon
  • Middle notes: mimosa, coriander, carnation, iris, gardenia, cinnamon, orchid, arum lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and cardamom
  • Base notes: orris, sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar and myrrh

Bottles:

The parfum was sold in a squat clear crystal flacon with paneled sides and topped with a faceted cut glass stopper. The name Norell was screen printed in simple script on the front of the bottle.

You can also find the factice parfum bottles that were used for advertising at the perfume counters. These dummy bottles were filled with colored water, not perfume. 

Several sizes:
  • 8 1/2" tall
  • 8 1/4" tall
  • 6 1/2" tall
  • 6" tall
  • 4" tall
The bottles for the cologne, eau de toilette and the eau de parfums were tall, clear glass bottles with paneled sides, topped with brass caps trimmed with black.

In 1982, a special limited edition bottle was presented. Known as the "Black Onyx Jeweler's Edition", the bottle holds 2.25 oz of Cologne Spray Concentrate. Apparently this flacon was only sold at Tiffany & Company.



Fate of the Fragrance:


You may notice that there are different manufacturers listed on the Norell packaging in addition to the Norell Perfumes, Inc name.  From 1968 til 1988, the bottles will be marked Norell Perfumes, Inc. 

From 1989 to 1996, you will find packaging marked "Prestige Fragrances", a division of Revlon, which sold primarily to department and specialty stores, and included the lines for Ciara, Halston, Bill Blass for women, Norell, and Di Borghese. In 1989, Revlon's Prestige Fragrances Ltd. planned to reemphasize Norell for the fall season and introduced the Norell Elegant Bath Luxuries.

The Rose Sheet, 1995:
"Marketing in Brief: Norell Fragrance Group 
Norell Fragrance Group: Will expand distribution of Norell women's scent to England, France and the Far East in early 1996. In addition, the company said it is "working aggressively to keep Norell in the high-end retail market" in the U.S. Norell is repositioning the fragrance to attract younger consumers -- women in their mid-20's and older -- rather than the scent's historic 35-55 target age group. The firm said it will promote Norell with "millions of scented pieces" to be distributed at point-of-sale and through targeted mailings and print ads that break in February in Elle, People and Cosmopolitan. Also, during the third quarter of 1996, Norell will bring back the "famous Norell red lipstick" as a g-w-p, the firm says, adding that eventually, the lipstick may come back as a stand-alone item. Norell Fragrance Group also is developing treatment items under the Norell name. A group of investors formed Norell Fragrance Group upon purchasing the Norell brand from Revlon in October."

In 1997, Jeffrey Dame, former Parlux executive vice president, formed a new company, Five Star Fragrance, Bohemia, NY. Mr. Dame, who had acquired the Norell trademark from Revlon's Norell Perfumes subsidiary, planned to relaunch the 28-year-old signature scent. that year using original formulas at high concentrations. The 1998 Norell ad campaign released by the company featured celebrity Faye Dunaway.

According to Happi magazine, Mr. Dame said he wanted to develop a portfolio of prestige fragrance trademarks through the acquisition of existing brands and the licensing of new fashion trademarks. Five Star Fragrances acquired some other brands including Bill Blass, Vicky Tiel, Royal Secret, and Galore. 
  • Norell Perfumes, Inc/Revlon (1968-1988)
  • Prestige Fragrances (1989-1996)
  • Five Star Fragrances (1997-present)

In 2015, Norell was reformulated and relaunched in new packaging. This modern green floral opens with a lush radiance that exudes a playful effervescence with an airy floral bouquet and sensual finish. This new perfume is sold exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. A 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum and a Body Cream are currently available. An exquisite limited edition Baccarat crystal flacon containing 1.7 oz of Parfum is available for $1,500 (only 500 examples worldwide).

  • Top notes: galbanum, mandarin, bergamot and pear
  • Middle notes: jasmine, peony, gardenia and orchid
  • Base notes: orris butter, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla and musk


Norell II:

With the ultimate success of Norell, a flanker scent was added to the line in 1979. Norell 2, a chypre fragrance for women, was described as a warm floral bouquet with green, woody oriental undertones. If I am not mistaken, Norell II was created by International Fragrances and Flavors perfume Rayda Vega.

This new Norell perfume has a reddish color and was packaged in the familiar looking Norell bottles, but this time the bottles are frosted glass and the caps are accented with red trim. It was this theme of red that has some fragrance devotees thinking the name was actually Norell Red. Norel Red was the name of an Ultima lipstick shade put out in the 197s. This sultry crimson hue was sold as a gift with purchase alongside Norell perfumes in the 1970s-1990s.

I do not have all the notes, I need a sample..
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, galbanum
  • Middle notes: rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, patchouli, amber, leather, vanilla

Unfortunately, Norell II was discontinued after only a few years of its introduction and can be quite hard to find.




Nuits Indiennes by Jean-Louis Scherrer c1993

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Nuits Indiennes by Jean-Louis Scherrer: launched in 1993. Created by perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer.

Art Nouveau shades of Gustav Klimt are seen in the advertising for the perfume.





Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a modern floral oriental fragrance for women. It has a melange of sweet fruit and white flowers on a base of warm ambery vanilla and because of this element, some reviewers consider it to be in the same league as the oriental classics Shalimar and Emeraude.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, mandarin orange, fruity notes, peach, bergamot, lemon
  • Middle notes: tagetes, lilac, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, rose
  • Base notes: amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk, benzoin, civet, vanilla, cedar

Nuits Indiennes was available in the following products:
  • 7.5ml Parfum Purse Spray
  • 15ml Parfum
  • 3.7ml Eau de Parfum mini
  • 30ml Eau de Toilette
  • 50ml Eau de Toilette
  • 100ml Eau de Toilette

Bottle:


The tall skinny column-like parfum bottle was designed by Susan Wacker. The parfum bottle is topped by a rectangular stopper fitted with a faceted emerald like stone. The bottle is housed inside of a opulent teal presentation box in the shape of an arched column covered in gilded embossing.

The eau de toilette bottles are similar in design, tall, skinny columns with vertical fluting, topped by a brass cap fitted with an emerald colored ring.





Fate of the Fragrance:

According to author Jan Moran, it was called Nuits Indiennes at its original launch in 1993, and then it was renamed and relaunched (thankfully it was not reformulated) as Nuits de Scherrer a year later in 1994. The name change may have been for a copyright reason. Today you can find the fragrance in production as Nuits de Scherrer.





Highest Prices Paid for Vintage and Discontinued Fragrances #2

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Here is a new list of the Highest Prices Paid for Vintage and Discontinued Fragrances sold on ebay. This list does not include niche or higher end fragrances, nor have I included pure parfums/extraits in this list. I will create a separate list for those when I can. These are general distribution/mainstream type fragrances, men's and women's are included, this is a work in progress and periodically I will create new numbered lists.

  1. Derby by Guerlain 17 oz EDT - $1,226.50
  2. Aventus by Creed 17 Fl Oz EDP - $695.00
  3. Bois Noir by Chanel 4.2 oz EDT - $610.00
  4. Derby by Guerlain 6.8 oz EDT - $599.00
  5. Halston 101 by Halston 3.4 oz Cologne - $595.00
  6. Kate Spade 3.3 oz EDP - $545.00
  7. Bois Noir by Chanel 4.2 oz EDT -$450.00
  8. Balafre by Lancome 6.8 oz EDT -$399.00
  9. Andron by Jovan 2 oz Cologne $380.00
  10. Sandalwood Cologne by Crabtree & Evelyn 4.4 oz Cologne - $375.00
  11. Egoiste by Chanel 3.4 oz Concentree Spray Cologne - $365.00
  12. Fendi by Fendi For Women 3.4 oz EDP - $350.00
  13. Gucci Envy for Men 3.4 oz EDT - $350.00
  14. Escada Pour Homme 2.5 oz EDT - $350.00
  15. Possibilities by Ann Taylor 3.4 oz EDP - $350.00
  16. Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens 1.69oz EDP - $349.00
  17. Must de Cartier II by Cartier 1.6 oz EDP - $325.00
  18. Nobile by Gucci 4 oz EDT - $324.00
  19. Fendi by Fendi For Women 3.4 oz EDP - $315.00
  20. Woods by Abercrombie & Fitch 3.4 oz EDC - $315.00
  21. Brioni by Brioni 2.5 oz EDT - $315.00
  22. Gio de Giorgio Armani 3.4 oz EDP - $313.00
  23. Gucci Rush By Gucci 3.4 oz EDT - $305.00
  24. Bel Ami by Hermes 3.3 oz EDT - $300.00
  25. Kingdom by Alexander McQueen 3.4 oz EDP - $300.00
  26. Sabi by Henry Dunay 3.4 oz EDP - $300.00
  27. Derby by Guerlain 1.7 oz EDT - $300.00
  28. Andron by Jovan 1 oz Cologne $300.00
  29. Chaos by Donna Karan 3.4 oz EDP - $300.00
  30. Leiber by Judith Leiber 1.7 oz EDP - $300.00
  31. Vivara by Emilio Pucci 2.8 oz EDP - $300.00
  32. Nino Cerruti Pour Homme 3.3 oz EDT - $300.00
  33. Vivara by Emilio Pucci 1.7 oz EDP - $300.00 (2007 Version)
  34. Mystere by Rochas 3.4 oz EDP - $299.00
  35. Initial by Boucheron 3.4 oz EDP - $290.00
  36. Catherine Deneuve 3.4 oz EDT - $290.00
  37. Canali Men by Canali 3.4 oz EDT - $290.00
  38. Midnight Poison by Dior 3.4 oz EDP - $286.00
  39. M7 by Yves Saint Laurent 3.3oz EDT - $283.00
  40. V Valentino Pour Homme by Valentino 3.4 oz EDT - $280.00
  41. Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier 4.2 oz EDP - $280.00
  42. L'Arte di Gucci 3.4 oz EDP - $280.00
  43. Beauty by Kate Spade 1.7 oz EDP - $276.00
  44. Un Bois Sepia by Serge Lutens 1.69 oz EDP - $272.00
  45. Dolce & Gabbana by Man 3.4 oz EDT - $270.00
  46. Organza Indecence by Givenchy 3.3 oz EDP - $270.00
  47. Di Borghese by Princess Marcella Borghese 2.5 oz EDP - $270.00
  48. Dolce & Gabbana by Woman 3.4 oz EDP - $270.00
  49. Jaipur Saphir by Boucheron 1.7 oz EDP - $270.00
  50. Egoiste by Chanel 1.7 oz Concentree Spray Cologne - $260.00
  51. Dazzling Silver by Estee Lauder 2.5 oz EDP - $260.00
  52. Hawaiian Surf by Hawaiian Surf 4 oz After Shave - $257.00
  53. Byzance by Rochas 3.4 oz EDP - $250.00
  54. Inner Grace by Philosophy 4 oz EDP - $250.00
  55. Notre Flore Neroli by L'Occitane 2.5 oz EDP - $250.00
  56. Surface by Aramis 3.4oz EDC - $250.00
  57. Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese 1.6 oz EDP - $250.00
  58. Giorgio Beverly Hills VIP Special Reserve 2 oz EDC - $250.00
  59. Glamourous by Ralph Lauren 3.4 oz EDP - $233.00
  60. Margaretha Ley by Escada 3.4 oz EDP -$226.00
  61. Bowling Green by Geoffrey Beene 8.0 oz EDC - $220.00
  62. White for Her by Emporio Armani 3.4 oz EDP - $220.00
  63. Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens 1.69 oz - $220.00
  64. Byzance by Rochas 1.7 oz EDP - $219.00
  65. Zen by Shiseido 3.3 oz EDP - $215.00 (white version)
  66. Sensi by Giorgio Armani 3.4 oz EDP - $215.00
  67. Dante Original by Dante 4 oz EDC - $215.00
  68. Santal Blanc by Serge Lutens 1.69 oz EDP - $210.00
  69. Gucci II by Gucci 2.5 oz EDP - $205.00
  70. Parfum d'Hermes by Hermes 3.3 oz EDT - $203.00
  71. Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior 15 oz EDC - $200.00
  72. Muhammad Ali by Muhammad Ali 4 oz EDC - $200.00

    Nilang de Lalique c1995

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    Nilang by Lalique: launched in 1995. Created by Gerard Anthony. The name refers to Nilang Lake in India.





    Fragrance Composition:

    So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aqua-oriental-lotus fragrance for women.

    • Top notes: water jasmine, freesia, water lily and narcissus
    • Middle notes: blueberry and lotus
    • Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla and praline


    Bottles:


    Some people may be confused about what is what when it comes to the Nilang perfumes. So I created a quick little guide here for the original vintage bottles:
    • Parfum (golden ring on collar/white transparent cap)
    • Parfum Mini (golden ring on collar/white transparent cap)
    • 50ml Eau de Parfum (dark yellow cap)
    • 100ml Eau de Parfum (purple cap)
    • 30ml Eau de Toilette (pink cap) 
    • 50ml Eau de Toilette (turquoise cap) 
    • 100ml Eau de Toilette (light yellow cap)
    • Claire de Nilang (dark green cap)


    Claire de Nilang:


    In 1997, Claire de Nilang was introduced as a floral flanker scent to the original. Pure with hints of sharp green petals (as the stopper), freesia and hibiscus, and delicious, with a candied kumquat coulis.
    • Top notes: coriander leaf, freesia and bergamot
    • Middle notes: acacia, kumquat, pink pepper and cassia buds
    • Base notes: musk, sandalwood, vanilla and hibiscus

    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Nilang was discontinued, but reformulated as a fruity floral fragrance for women and relaunched in new packaging in 2011.
    • Top notes: lotus, mandarin orange, peach, melon
    • Middle notes: jasmine, clove, freesia, blueberry
    • Base notes: musk, patchouli, amber, vanilla, sandalwood, sweet notes






    On Dit by Elizabeth Arden c1937

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    On Dit by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1937 and created by Edmond Roudnitska. It was apparently put on hold from production during the war and was re-launched as soon as it was over in 1945.


    The perfume's name means "They Say..." in French, the suggestion is of juicy gossip among Arden's salon patrons and shown as a literal interpretation in the bottle's design of two ladies, one has her hand held discreetly over her mouth as she whispers into the ear of her companion. The top of the bottle represents the curling hairdos of the women and forms an over cap covering an inner glass stopper.




    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral chypre perfume with woody, mossy and leafy notes. Similar to Mitsouko by Guerlain.
    • Top notes: bergamot, galbanum, aldehydes
    • Middle notes: rose and jasmine
    • Base notes: vetiver, vanilla, labdanum, patchouli, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar, ambergris, musk


    Harper's Bazaar, 1946:
    "Elizabeth Arden's new French perfume, " It says ",  in a baroque bottle, 1 oz, $ 37.50."

    Modern Packaging, 1947:
    "Elizabeth Arden's On Dit "Carousel" perfume uses a fragile, frosted French bottle with bas-relief profiles of lovely ladies whispering to one another set on a die-cut platform."

    Cue, 1949:
    "Elizabeth Arden encloses her Blue Grass, Night and Day and It's You perfumes in heart-shaped, jeweled boxes at $2.25 and $3.25. She also puts a golden flacon of On Dit on a vermillion cushion in a transparent, heart-shaped box. $12."

    Cue, 1950:
    "His jeweled coronet is the top of a Perfumair, obtainable in any of Miss Arden's fine fragrances. $ 2.75. Or you might prefer her charming little paper weight in all which a bottle of " On Dit "perfume nestles in violet flowers inside a transparent ball."

    The New Yorker, 1950:
    "Here, in a precious little jewel of a bottle, Elizabeth Arden presents a new way of carrying her lovely perfumes. Perfumair... My Love, It's You, On Dit, Night and Day , White Orchid, Blue Grass."

    The New Yorker, 1952:
    "Elizabeth Arden does up On Dit perfume (we're off rose scents for the moment) in giant female torso swathed in drapery— a Lalique job — for $78."

    Soap, Cosmetics, Chemical Specialties, Volume 29, 1953:
    "On Dit," a new bath set of "Jasmin" hard milled bath soap, bath salts and bath powder has been introduced by Elizabeth Arden, Inc., New York, in a solid bottom box with transparent acetate cover. Plastic cover made by Plax Corp.."

    Bottles:


     
    ELIZABETH ARDEN "On Dit" figural perfume bottle of frosted glass with inner stopper, in extremely rare box with graphics by Rene Bouche. c. 1948. 3 3/4". Photo by Rago Arts. Sold for $5,500 in 2007.





    Fate of the Fragrance:

    Discontinued, date unknown.

    C'est la Vie by Christian Lacroix c1990

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    C'est la Vie by Christian Lacroix: launched in 1990 and released by Dior Parfums. Created by Edouard Flechier.

    The Opera Comique off the boulevard des Italiens is a pretty little theatre which was chosen last Sunday night by the fashion house of Christian Lacroix as the place to launch a new scent called 'C'est la Vie'. About ,£25 million was behind this operation. The new scent is to be distributed by Dior Perfumes.

    Los Angeles Times, 1990:
    "Lacroix was describing his first fragrance, C'est La Vie, which was launched in the United States at a gala (purportedly price-tagged at about $550,000) for 400 at the Palladium nightclub in New York on Monday. French ballerina Sophie Guillem performed "Bolero," accompanied by 40 male dancers, on a technically elaborate stage built especially for the occasion. Actor Tony Randall acted as emcee and a catered dinner followed for such Lacroix fans Blaine Trump, artist Julian Schnabel, former Ambassador to France Evan Galbraith and his wife Marie, and Lacroix's muse and favorite model, silver-haired Marie Seznec. 
    "Perfume is, above all else, memories. It's nostalgia made from souvenirs," says Lacroix, who credits Maurice Roger, chairman of Parfums Christian Lacroix and Parfums Christian Dior with inventing the name. 
    "While we were coming up with the scent, we had to start again more than once and very often we said, 'C'est La Vie,'" he explains.
     The fragrance, a floral bouquet of orange blossom and syringa (a white-flowering shrub found in Lacroix's native Provence), is packaged in the designer's signature colors--pink, bright yellow and black. The crystal bottle reflects feminine curves and features a pink stopper shaped like a coral branch. 
    C'est La Vie will be available in September at I. Magnin, Bullock's and Robinson's, with a little more than an ounce of perfume selling for about $163 and 1.7 ounces of eau de toilette selling for $43."




    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, seringa, pineapple, cassia, raspberry, osmanthus, peach, bergamot
    • Middle notes: jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, carnation, tuberose, iris, sandalwood, orange blossom, rose, violet
    • Base notes: amber, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean

    The Connosieur, 1990:
    "C'est la vie!, his first women's scent, like his clothes, harmonizes somewhat startling contrasts. The fragrance draws upon the long-respected floral- Oriental accord, which goes back nearly a century. The warm,  lingering background of amber, vanilla, sandalwood, and musk blended with more sprightly floral elements (jasmine, violet, ylang ylang, heliotrope, rose, and orange flower) has olfactory associations with such classics as Guerlain's Apres l'Ondee and L'Heure Bleue."

    Bottle:


     The perfume was contained in a heart-shaped amber glass bottle, fitted with a black plastic collar to simulate onyx or jet, and topped with a coral plastic branch cap. It comes packaged in a hot rose box lined with yellow and ornamented with Lacroix's own black-and-gold tracery. 

    The Bulletin, 1996:
    "C'est la Vie, by the fashion designer Christian Lacroix, cost the French cosmetics house Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy $30 ...  And then there was the design of the bottle - one French magazine described it as looking like a heart transplant."



    A very pretty gilt metal purse bottle was shaped like a coral branch to hold the parfum.

    C'est la Vie was available in the following products:
    • 0.25 oz Refillable Parfum Purse Spray
    • 1 oz Parfum
    • 1.7 oz Parfum Spray
    • 0.13 oz Eau de Parfum mini
    • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum
    • 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum
    • 0.34 oz Eau de Toilette
    • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette
    • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette
    • 6.8 oz Eau de Toilette
    • Shower Gel
    • Body Lotion
    • Body Cream
    • Dusting Powder
    • Deodorant Spray
    • Soap

    Fate of the Fragrance:

    Discontinued by 1991.

    Chandler Burr speaks of this fragrance in his book The Perfect Scent: "Christian Lacroix's C'est La Vie was a huge flop because they launched, expensively, right after launching the haute couture house and LVMH thought he was going to do so well, and it didn't."

    The New York Times Magazine, 1991:
    "Christian Lacroix's C'est la Vie! retreated from 600 venues just months after it hit the marketplace."

    Forbes, 1991:
    "Last year Christian Lacroix's C'est La Vie lost an estimated $10 million to $12 million in the U.S. alone. The market is finicky, success often ephemeral."


    National Geographic Magazine, 1998:
    "One corpse left by the wayside was the 40 million dollars reportedly lost on Christian Lacroix's C'est la Vie in 1989."








    Etourdissant by Jean Desprez c1939

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    Etourdissant by Jean Desprez: launched in 1939. The name means "stunning" in French.





    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classic chypre fragrance for women, it was described as "startling". Unfortunately, I do not have any published notes on this composition, but if you have a sample to donate I would love to review it to complete this article.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
    • Middle notes:
    • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, labdanum, patchouli, amber


    The Bermudian - Volumes 17-18, 1946:
    "But especially suitable for the festive season are Votre Main, Etourdissant and Jardanel, the perfumes of Jean Desprez, exquisitely presented in white with trimmings of Xmas red and green . . . from $8.00 to $78.00."


    Bottles:


    Housed in various bottles, but the most sunning is the Baccarat crystal flacon that looks like a diamond faceted crystal shard.




    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown.






    Byzance by Rochas c1987

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    Byzance by Rochas: launched in 1987. It was created by Nicolas Mamounas and Alberto Morillas.

    The perfumes name was inspired by the shadow of the mosaics of Ravenna.

    Rochas budgeted FFr70m ($11.6m) for the European launch on October 15th of "Byzance"; it says it has already got its money back. The minimum budget for an American launch — ideally after the whiff of a European one — is $15m-20m.


    Fragrance Composition:



    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, spices, carnation, green notes, mandarin orange, basil, lemon, cardamom
    • Middle notes: tuberose, orris root, jasmine, Turkish rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, anise
    • Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla, heliotrope, cedar

    Byzance was available in the following products:
    • 7.5ml Parfum Spray
    • 7.5ml Parfum Splash
    • 15 ml Parfum Splash
    • 3ml Eau de Parfum mini
    • 25ml Eau de Parfum
    • 50ml Eau de Parfum
    • 100ml  Eau de Parfum
    • 15ml Eau de Toilette Spray
    • 30ml Eau de Toilette Spray
    • 50ml Eau de Toilette Spray
    • 100ml Eau de Toilette Spray
    • 200ml Eau de Toilette Spray
    • 30ml Voile Caresse Perfumed Dusting Powder
    • 75ml Satin Caresse Body Lotion
    • 200ml Body Cream
    • 200ml Body Lotion
    • 100ml Deodorant Spray
    • 100ml Perfumed Silkening Body Oil Spray
    • Soap

    Fate of the Fragrance:

    It appears that this fragrance was reformulated in 2008 and many of the rose and jasmine notes are quite muted. Though I believe the fragrance was finally discontinued in 2012



    Empreinte by Courreges c1971

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    Empreinte by Courreges: launched in 1971. It was created by Robert Gonnon.

    "Many fragrances make an impression, one leaves an imprint. empreinte. It evokes your loveliness even when you're gone."


    "Empreinte by Andre Courreges. A whisper of fragrance . . . soft as a flower-petal. Provocative as a glance. Lingering on ... to create an impression so lasting — it's really an imprint. Empreinte. Named for what it does."


    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women with a leathery, dry, woodsy base.

    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, coriander, artemisia, peach
    • Middle notes: plum, melon, Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, orris
    • Base notes: cedar, oakmoss, leather, sandalwood, castoreum, vetiver, patchouli, amber, musk


    Bottles:

    Empreinte was housed in tall, clear glass cylindrical bottles, topped by an oversized gilded ball screw cap. Towards the bottom of the bottle was a large gilded logo. The parfum bottles were given an all over gilt finish.

    Empreinte was available in the following products:
    • 1/4 oz Parfum
    • 1/2 oz Parfum
    • 1 oz Parfum
    • 2 oz Eau de Toilette
    • 4 oz Eau de Toilette
    • 8 oz Eau de Toilette

    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1985. I believe it may have been reformulated and relaunched in 1995, then discontinued again.

    It has been reformulated and relaunched in 2012. The bottles are copies of the 1970s originals and are available in 1 oz, 1.7 oz and 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum. However, according to many online reviews, the fragrance not as nice as the original and the scent is very fleeting and stays close to the skin.


    So what does the 2012 version smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

    • Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, mandarin orange
    • Middle notes: May rose, Bulgarian rose, jasmine
    • Base notes: moss, patchouli, sandalwood



    Cherigan

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    Cherigan, established by Ota Polacek at 120 avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris in 1929, also had an outlet in Havana, Cuba.



    The perfumes of Cherigan:
    • 1927 Fleurs de Tabac
    • 1928 Mascarades
    • 1929 Chance
    • 1945 Chypre
    • 1945 Jasmin
    • 1945 Bleu Impériale
    • 1945 La Habana Cuba
    • 1945 Or Impériale
    • 1946 Vers la Chance
    • 1947 Fleur de Cherigan
    • 1966 Parisienne
    • Historie de Fleurs
    • Jupon


    Mascarades: Presented in a black bottle with a most unusual golden face under a rain of gold dust front decoration. Flacon by Cristalleries de Nancy.


    Fleurs de Tabac: presented in a black glass bottle, with applied gold metal leaves and gilt serigraphy. Ht. 2 3/4". Also available in a clear glass version with the applied leaves. Bottles designed by Andre Jollivet.  A small round, disk shaped purse bottle was also used, this bottle had a brass overcap inscribed with "Cherigan", it was housed in a black velveteen pouch this bottle also came with an ivory enameled or plastic cap and hosed in a tan suede pouch. These disk bottles were also used for Chance.







    Chance: Presented in a black glass, green glass, blue glass or red glass bottle with a silver horse-shoe motif. Bottle was designed by Andre Jollivet. Other bottles were also used for Chance over the years, although they were not as fancy.



    Billboard, 1951:
    "N. Sure Company announces lines of imported Cherigan perfumes and colognes at prices insuring good profits. Nationally advertised, the perfumes — Chance and Fleurs de Tabac- — come in bottles ranging from quarter ounce to two ounce capacity. Cologne bottles have capacity of 2 to 16 ounces.  Packaged with bright, striped wrapping over square, heavy glass bottles with stopper, the items have eye appeal. N. Sure's Twin Paks of perfume for gifts combine the scents in bottles mounted in a hand tailored suede finish box. Prices on request."




    Reflexions by Ciro c1933

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    Reflexions by Ciro: launched in 1933.

    Fragrance Composition:



    So what does it smell like? It was classified as a slightly aldehydic aromatic fougere fragrance for women, very fernlike and mossy.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, spices, lavender
    • Middle notes: iris, geranium, carnation, fern, orris, opoponax
    • Base notes: tonka, patchouli, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, benzoin, ambergris, oakmoss


    Bottles:


    Fate of the Fragrance:

    Discontinued.

    Sea Jade by Yardley c1960

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    Sea Jade by Yardley: launched in 1960.

    Yardley's line, called Sea Jade, was comprised of sixteen items, six of which were imported from England. Some of the colognes were housed in figural bottles such as a seahorse or mermaid. Sea Jade's packaging was a turquoise blue emblazoned with a silvery seahorse motif.




    • Perfume
    • Eau de Toilette
    • Cologne
    • Mini-spray cologne
    • Spray deodorant
    • Talcum
    • Dusting powder
    • Soap
    • Hand and body lotion
    • Body shampoo
    • Foam bath
    • Bath salts cube

    Fragrance Composition:



    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green, floral chypre fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: peach, bergamot and galbanum
    • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and orris
    • Base notes: musk, amber, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood and oakmos

    Fate of the Fragrance:

    Sea Jade was discontinued since the 1970s.

    In 2014, Yardley launched a new women's fruity, aromatic green floral chypre perfume Jade, as part of their Signature Fragrance Collection. It is directly inspired by their previous fragrance Sea Jade.
    • Top notes: peach, bergamot and galbanum
    • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and orris
    • Base notes of patchouli, sandalwood and moss

    Collage by Adele Simpson c1967

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    Collage by Adele Simpson: launched in 1967.





    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

    • Top notes: bergamot
    • Middle notes: floral notes
    • Base notes: cedar, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, musk, amber







      Vogue, 1968:
      "Adele Simpson has come out with Collage skin perfume only six months after the birth of her original Collage perfume and Eau de Collage. That's the Adele Simpson, designer of all those charmingly wearable clothes, connoisseur of the good scents to wear them with."

      Cue, 1969:
      "Fashion innovator Adele Simpson believes not only in the layered look for today's dressing, but in the "layered" bath ritual as well. Her thinking for her Collage fragrance line is that "layers of the same fragrance are more potent, from soap to perfumemuch more subtle than one great blast of perfume. She suggests a pretty basket (pretty idea), to sit on the edge of your tub, holding all the requisites, from bath soap, moisturizer, and body and bath perfume to washcloth, talc, and her newest Collage Skin Perfume."

      House and Garden, 1969:
      " A pastiche of blossoms, each making an occasional point as the wearer moves, altogether a message of great femininity: ADELE SIMPSON's engaging new COLLAGE."


      Harper's Bazaar, 1969:
      "First she created her lovely wildflower perfume, Collage, to complement her superb clothes. Now she has added a bath collection to make Collage fragrance the backdrop for true elegance. New Collage Perfumed Body Oil and Soap are the basics to soothe and scent. Pouf of Collage foams out in velvety, moisturizing puffs to further silken your whole body; Eau de Collage and scented talc complete the unseen (but not unnoticed!) fashion image. Adele Simpson's Collage Bath Collection, $5 to $8.50."



      Vogue, 1971:
      "Assert yourself. Wear a highly personal perfume, Adele Simpson's Collage. When you move into those male dominated professions show your tasteful judgement with a cool Adele Simpson linen. In the Adele Simpson fashion."

      Reading Eagle, Sep 18, 1972:
      "Perfume Born From Collage. How is a perfume born? Well here's how it happened to "Collage," Adele Simpson's special fragrant product. Miss Simpson's publicist says Miss Simpson spent two years sniffing at bits of blotting papers bearing many blends before she selected the one she considered the 'essence of everything beautiful.' See? It is a mixture of the scents of wildflowers, moss and woodland, Miss Simpson's publicist says."

      The Americana Annual, 1973:
      "In the United States, Norman Norell and Adele Simpson were among those to enter this tremendous field, Norell with his scent called simply "Norell" and Adele Simpson with "Collage," which she describes as "the essence of everything beautiful."



      Bottle:







      Fate of the Fragrance:


      Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1977.




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