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Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant c1912

August 2, 2015, 1:16 am
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Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant: launched in 1912, created by perfumer Robert Bienaime, was one of the first floral bouquet ever produced.











Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, violet leaves, citrus, orange blossom, hyacinth, orchid, honey
  • Middle notes: heliotrope, lilac, jasmine, rose, carnation, ylang ylang, orris, violet, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: orris, musk, civet, vanilla and sandalwood



Original prices in 1920.

Based on the original prices using an inflation calculator, these products would cost the following in 2012 money:
  • Ideal extract would cost $48.16 to $93.50 in 2012.
  • Ideal toilet water would cost $82.16.
  • Ideal face powder would cost $56.66.
  • Ideal Talcum would cost $11.33.
  • Quelques Fleurs extract would cost $59.50 to $215.32.
  • Quelques Fleurs toilet water would cost $100.86.
  • Quelques Fleurs bath salts would cost $28.33.
  • Quelques Fleurs face powder would cost $70.83.
  • Quelques Fleurs talcum would cost $11.33.

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record - Volume 3 , 1912:
"THE name Houbigant in the perfumery world stands for all that is rich, elegant, and time- honoured. ... Within the last few weeks a new perfume, " Quelques Fleurs," has been perfected, and has already attained great popularity in Paris."
Theatre Magazine, 1916:
"Did you know that Houbigant, for the first time, is putting out his expensive perfumes. Ideal. Coeur de Jeanette, Quelques Fleurs in dollar bottles? You will find them all at the perfume counter in Frenchy dresses of opaque glass."
Asia: Journal of the American Asiatic Association - Volume 27, Issue 12, 1927:
"The most successful odeurs of perfume history arc Quelques Fleurs and Le Parfum Ideal, by Houbigant. C. These odeurs, in the Louis XV bottle designed for Houbigant by Baccarat, of Paris, are especially appropriate as gifts — each is $25.00."
Vanity Fair, 1929:
"QUELQUES FLEURS or Le Parfum Ideal in a silk-lined Chamois case that plays treasure chest for these incomparable fragrance. $20 the Grand Flacon with Atomizer. QUELQUES FLEURS OR Le PARFUM IDEAL in the most luxurious flacon that ever imprisoned a fragrance. A Louis XV gold embellished bottle serves as a befitting shrine for the supreme perfumes."
The Judge, 1929:
"QUELQUES FLEURS Houbigant's fragrant expression of eternal modern youth. The Perfume that has enslaved the smart sophisticates of two continents. In an exquisite silk-lined gift box, $7.50. Other sizes at $1, $2, $4 and $15."
Harper's Bazaar, 1933:
"QUELQUES FLEURS— "Many flowers," perhaps the world's favorite perfume— $2.20 to $30.00"
American Druggist, 1939:
"Houbigant "Little Original" Parfum Quelques Fleurs Extract "double dram" replica of "Modele Original." Perfume. Quelques Fleurs. Replica flacon and coffret. Retail. $1.50"

Ladies Home Journal, 1949: "QUELQUES FLEURS (Pronounced "Kelka Flur")
  • Perfume $18.50, $12.50, $7.50, $3.50
  • Eau de Toilette $3.75, $2.50 
  • Sachet Powder $1.75 
  • Bath Softener $3.50, $2.50 
  • Talcum Powder $1.00 
  • Dusting Powder 2.00 
  • Hand lotion $1.00."
LIFE, 1954:
" Quelques Fleurs Hand Lotion Trio tinted in blue, cream and pink. $I.00."


Fate of the Fragrance:



Quelques Fleurs L’Original

Quelques Fleurs was discontinued around 1978. It was reformulated and reissued as Quelques Fleurs L'Original in 1984.


It is still classified as a floral fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: bergamot, galbanum, tarragon, lemon
  • Middle notes: jasmine absolute, tuberose, lily of the valley, violet absolute, rose absolute, ylang ylang, carnation, broom flower absolute, orange blossom, beeswax absolute, clove
  • Base notes: oakmoss absolute, sandalwood, civet, cedarwood, musk, orris, tonka bean



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Terre de Retz Powder Boxes c1920s

August 2, 2015, 4:43 pm
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"Terre de Retz" was a line of face powder sold by the Galeries Lafayette department store in Paris, The face powder was housed inside papier mache or composition powder boxes molded in various forms from historical figures to sailing ships. Richly painted in dreamy pastels or bold primary colors, these fanciful boxes adorned boudoirs during the 1920s.

c1927 ad





These are often found marked with oval paper labels "Modele Depose - Terre de Retz - Made in France", or the name "Terre de Retz - Made in France" will be incised into the box itself, and you may find some boxes marked with the Galeries Lafayette label.

Most commonly found figurals are the French court ladies evocative of Marie Antoinette's time in various poses, with their tall wigs and wide pannier dresses seem to step right out of fashion plates.

You could also find demure Spanish senoritas with their mantilla combs and shawls wrapped around their shoulders amongst the delightful singing Pierrots, Harlequins and wistful Columbines with their flirtatious black eye masks of the Commedia del Arte.

A rather special figural is the saucy Gaby Deslys styled flapper dressed in lounging pyjamas and her famous pearl necklace sitting on a bearskin fur rug. The sporty female tennis player is another cute example, as she looks to be resting after a game, with her racket at her side and a ball in her hand.

Elegant strolling ladies shielding their faces from the sun by holding parasols are hard to find examples, the umbrellas themselves are susceptible to damage.

Ballerinas too take their place among the figurals while giving a curtsey during a curtain call. A rarer example is a young girl wearing a shirt dress kneeling on a cushion looking up towards a small cat perched on her shoulder. Risque bathing beauties also made appearances as they sat on rocks in their swimsuits and bathing caps.

A most rare figural is a Balinese god sitting in the lotus position perched upon temple steps lent an exotic air. A gorgeous holiday figural consisted of Kriss Kringle sitting on a snowbank with a sack of toys slung over his shoulder.

You may also find Terre de Retz labeled half dolls which are meant to be sewn onto pin cushions or other soft fabric boudoir items. These half dolls have the oiled high hairstyles of Madame Pompadour and have outstretched arms away from their bodies, in one hand, the lady clutches a pink rose. The name "Terre de Retz" will be inscribed on the front of the dolls and "Made in France" on the back. These half dolls are rather large and measure about 3 1/2" tall with a nearly 6" arm span. from fingertip to fingertip

Sometimes they might be marked with the artist's name who painted them such as "G. Duchesne" gor Georges Duchesne.

The boxes served double duty after the powder was gone and could have been used to hold candies, jewelry, hair pins or other small items. Today, these beautiful items are coveted by collectors who often pay a premium for these rarities. Care must be taken when cleaning these as paint loss and chipping can occur. To clean, use a dry fluffy paint brush to wipe away any dust in the crevices. Do not use water or any type of cleaning solution as this may remove the delicate paint and break down the composition.







For more information, refer to the Christie Mayer Lefkowith book Masterpieces of the Perfume Industry, page 185.

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Fracas by Robert Piguet c1948

August 3, 2015, 9:56 pm
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Fracas by Robert Piguet: launched in 1948. Created by Germaine Cellier.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an intense white floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: C18 aldehyde, bergamot, mandarin, peach, green leaves, hyacinth, Tunisian orange blossom absolute and lilac
  • Middle notes: coriander, rose, jonquil, Indian tuberose absolute, carnation, French jasmine absolute, white narcissus, gardenia, lily of the valley, white iris, rose geranium, osmanthus and violet root
  • Base notes: sandalwood, Tolu balsam, amber, civet, cedar, Italian orris butter, vetiver, oakmoss and musk

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.


The Robert Piguet fragrances were owned by Alfin (Irwin Alfin/Adrien Arpel, Inc.) from 1982-1997. In 1985, the company formed a subdivision, Orinter Geneva Switzerland, to handle the Parfums Robert Piguet. The Company owned the exclusive worldwide manufacturing, distribution and licensing rights for Fracas, Bandit, Cravache, and Musk Blanc. The company also initiated mass marketing of other popular Robert Piguet fragrances.

It was at this time that they reformulated and relaunched these fragrances, and unfortunately, these versions are the worst according to online reviews.  The Fracas fragrance product line consisted of parfum, eau de toilette, bath oil and body lotion. These early bottles are clear glass with black serigraphy of a weird font in capital letters, and topped with both octagonal and non-octagonal black caps. The boxes are black with accents of pale pink. You may find the mini bottles of parfum, they are small clear glass cubes with square black caps.

The later fragrances were housed in the opaque black glass bottles, topped with both octagonal and non-octagonal black caps. These items were presented in the black boxes, emblazoned with the familiar Fracas lowercase lettered logo in the pink square.

The company also released the noxious stench known as Fracas for Men, a complete flop, which according to many people, has no relation to Fracas, and is not even in the same league as other Robert Piguet fragrances.



Then the Robert Piguet brand was acquired by Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd. (FF&C) who reformulated Fracas to closely resemble the original version and relaunched it in 1997. This is the current version seen on the Robert Piguet Parfums website. This version is found in the opaque black glass bottles with the octagonal and non-octagonal black caps (with gold bands) and clear cut crystal stoppers. These items were presented in the black boxes, emblazoned with the familiar Fracas logo in the pink square.

Fracas was reformulated again in 2006 to exclude the oakmoss per IFRA regulations.



Fracas is available in the following forms:






From 2008- The Fracas de Robert Piguet 60th anniversary limited edition, retailed at $525. Only 500 numbered pieces will be sold, complete with a certificate of authenticity marked with the anniversary seal. The signature black glass bottle is topped with a cut crystal stopper, and presented in the top drawer of a black lacquer box. The bottom drawer holds a refillable purse bottle and two refill bottles with 7.5 ml parfum.  It was available exclusively at Ogilvy.



2012 Limited edition of ‘Fracas’, in collaboration with French actress, Isabelle Huppert, who was approached by the company after she publicly stated she liked the perfume. The Pierre Dinand bottle was created to coincide with the 160th anniversary of the Parisian high end Le Bon Marché store. The 100ml Eau de Parfum bottles are etched with the actress' initials "IH" on the back. The bottles are individually numbered and limited to only 80 copies.





The Robert Piguet brand is pleased to present the Limited Edition Fracas de Robert Piguet Parfum with Swarovski Elements Crystals. Opulence and splendor spotlight this special edition. The flacons are elegantly embellished with delicate Swarovski crystals along each facet of the bottle as well as topped with a crystallized stopper. The large 1 litre bottle retailed for $13,500 in 2013.


The Robert Piguet brand is pleased to present the Limited Edition Fracas de Robert Piguet Parfum with Swarovski Elements Crystals. Opulence and splendor spotlight this special edition. The flacons are elegantly embellished with delicate Swarovski crystals along each facet of the bottle as well as topped with a crystallised stopper. The parfum flacon is elegantly presented in a sleek black piano box to complete the lavish presentation. The 60ml eau de parfum retailed for $1100.00 in 2013.



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My Sin by Lanvin c1924

August 5, 2015, 12:53 am
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The design house of Lanvin was among the first to present a perfume as part of a collection. My Sin was created in 1924 and first sold and trademarked in Paris under the name Mon Péché by Lanvin.

"A perfume of enchantment - of enthrallment...My Sin holds enticing charm for the delights which are to come. Smart women are always fond of My Sin's complimentary chic..."

In 1926, Jeanne Lanvin recalled that My Sin was created by a collaboration between Firmenich and Madame Maria Zede , a "nose", an employee of Gabilla Perfumerie. Gabilla had introduced their perfume My Sin in 1920. The bottle was a round black glass flacon molded with flowers and richly gilded, with a matching gilt stopper. The design was by Julien Viard and manufactured by C. Depinoix, it was used for another Gabilla perfume, Minne in 1920.

Fashion designers of the early 1900s required the assistance of experienced perfume companies to blend their perfumes and to create and produce their presentations. Gabilla was one of the companies who specialized in assisting fashion designers, most notably Jeanne Lanvin. Gabilla had worked under condition of anonymity. The direct involvement of these two companies was evidenced in their choice of perfume names and bottle shapes.

According to the book Extraordinary Origins of Everyday Things, author Charles Panati states that "capitalizing on the American desire for French perfumes, Jeanne Lanvin took her creation Mon Péché, which had failed in Paris, and in 1925 turned it into an immediate and resounding success in America under the name My Sin."

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women with a dominant acacia note with aldehydic character.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, clary sage, neroli, carnation, bergamot, heliotrope, acacia, mimosa
  • Middle notes: white narcissus, clove, orris, orange blossom, lily, jasmine, violet, rose, lily of the valley, lilac, iris, jonquil, ylang ylang
  • Base notes: ambergris, vanilla, tolu balsam, styrax, patchouli, musk, vetiver, civet and sandalwood

Bottles:


Lanvin's My Sin/Mon Peche parfum extrait was sold in a round black glass bottle called La Boule, designed in 1923 by Armand Rateau and made in France by Cristal Romesnil. The bottle had two different gilded stoppers, one raspberry shaped, and the other was a round, ribbed ball. The gilded logo on the front of the bottle was designed by Paul Iribe and depicts a stylized portrait of Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter getting dressed for a masked ball. Rare versions of this bottle are to be found in clear glass with a gilded logo, an all over gilded glass bottle with logo in black, and even rarer versions are made from Sevres porcelain limited editions made in 1926, each was burgundy, turquoise or cobalt blue.

The black La Boule bottles were to become the standard flacon for all of Lanvin's parfum extraits. The labels are simply small strips of paper found on the base of the bottle which would note what perfume was inside. The boxes were generally covered in cream colored paper and trimmed with a different color for each perfume, My Sin had navy trim, Arpege had black, Scandale had red, Pretexte had black and Rumeur had brown.

There is even a hard to find early powder box made in the shape of La Boule, and made with papier mache.


Other bottles you will commonly find are the tall rectangular or shorter square shaped clear glass bottles that hold the colognes, eau de parfums and eau de toilettes. These bottles were made in France by Verreries Brosse. The earlier bottles have either a black glass or bakelite stopper, and later black plastic, impressed with the Lanvin logo. Some bottles have a simple gold foil label others can be found with either a red or black label.

It is also possible to find dusting powder, bath oil, perfume mist, talc, Eau de Lanvin My Sin, and soap online.

"My Sin..a most provocative perfume"

The New Yorker - Volume 23, 1947:
"Lanvin — "Rumeur," for a young vivacious person; a brunette perfume. "Arpege," for the young blonde. "Mon Peche," or "My Sin," for the very young. "Scandal," smells of sandalwood."

Fate of the Fragrance:

My Sin by Lanvin was discontinued in 1988.


The trademark and rights to the perfume name was bought out by Long Lost Perfumes by Irma Shorell, Inc., but they do not own the Lanvin formula. The sell their own "version" of the perfume that was recreated in 1995 and is sold on their website.

The recreated perfume composition:
  • Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, clary sage, neroli
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, clove, orris, muguet, jonquil, ylang ylang, lilac
  • Base notes: vetiver, vanilla, musk, styrax, civet, woods, tolu


My Sin was copied by other perfume companies like Lucia Deraine who made her version in 1945, and M by Jac de Paris who launched his version in the 1950s.




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Louis D'Or

August 6, 2015, 2:06 am
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Louis D'Or produced their own versions of popular perfumes of the 1960s. Oftentimes you can tell what the Louis D'Or fragrance is trying to copy by looking at the the style of font or colors on the label. For instance, his Tattoo perfume's label is very similar to the one used for Tabu by Dana,





  • Tattoo = Tabu by Dana
  • Eternal Love =
  • Apogee= Arpege by Lanvin
  • Golden Louis =
  • Chandelle = Chanel No. 5
  • I'm Loved =
  • Madam Loubarry=
  • Amour =
  • Ceil =
  • D'Or =
  • Bahama Mama = 
  • Mademoiselle =
  • Reve =
  • Mystique = 
  • Hiver = 
  • Automne =
  • Ete =
  • Promises Promises =
  • French Cargo =
  • French Accent = 
  • French Dream = 
  • Erotica = 
  • Hair =
  • Fujiyama = 
  • Russian Leather = 
  • Christian = an imitation of a Christian Dior fragrance
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Zibeline by Weil c1927

August 7, 2015, 10:16 am
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In 1927, Marcel Weil of Les Fourrures Weil created Parfums Weil with their advertisements of “perfumes for furs”. These were based on a direct request from a regular client for a perfume suitable for wearing on furs. These were their first commercial perfumes that were advertised would guarantee not to harm the furs.

In 1928 the four perfumes inspired by fur themes were launched: Chinchilla Royal, Hermine (ermine), Une Fleur pour Fourrure (A Flower for Furs) and Zibeline (Sable) were favorites from the start. All of these perfumes were created by Claude Fraysse.

Weil (Perfumes) 1928 Zibeline, Chinchilla... Art Deco Style
c1928


Fragrance Composition:


Zibeline is described as a sweet, heady floral chypre intended to recall the steppes and massive oak forests of Imperial Russia, where the finest sable furs were imported.
  • Top notes are aldehydes, coriander, tarragon, bergamot and lemon
  • Middle notes are iris, gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, hawthorn, linden and rose
  • Base notes are honey, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, civet and vetiver

Weil (Perfumes) 1945 ZibelineWeil (Perfumes) 1936 Zibeline Art Deco Style




Harper's Bazaar, 1936:
"Weil's Zibeline. As rich and husky as a torch song. 100-proof for blondes who disdain to be pastel."

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:
"Zibeline"— Weil's bittersweet romance of a perfume, but with a lighter, brighter side too. One ounce. $15."

Consumer Reports, 1956:
"Zibeline (Parfums Weil Paris, Inc., NYC). Good. Very heavy. 1/2 oz., $5; 1, oz., $15; 1 1/2 oz., $27.50. Very spicy-woody."

EAU DE TOILETTES

In 1930, the first Weil eau de toilettes debuted, Chinchilla and Zibeline.


COLOGNE


Stage, 1936:
"There's something pretty exhilarating about the new fizzing cologne of Parfums Weil called Carbo-nique. It comes in three odors: Cassandra, Bamboo, and Zibeline, and the seltzer-bottle container is returnable for credit on a new one."


SECRET DE VENUS

Zibeline went on to have a very successful future with the advent of the Secret de Venus Huile line of bath & body oils .


Glass Packer, 1949:
"HOUR-GLASS BOTTLE, bright green cap, and beige linen-like box, are used by Parfums Weil Paris, Inc. to package the new, half-ounce size of Secret of Venus, Zibeline fragrance, compounded of aromatic oils."

 Weil (Perfumes) 1939 Zibeline Chinchilla Bambou Noir Cassandra
c1939

Fate of the Fragrance:


Zibeline was discontinued sometime in the 1970s I believe.

In 2010, Parfums Weil reintroduced three new fragrances: Zibeline de Weil, Secret de Weil and Reve de Weil.

Zibeline de Weil is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: ylang-ylang, bergamot and plum
  • Middle notes: orange blossom, sweet pea and wallflower
  • Base notes: benzoin and tonka bean

Based on some online reviews, this version os Zibeline is different from the original. It is said to be lighter in character and modernized for today's tastes.



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Bernard Lalande

August 9, 2015, 4:42 am
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Parfums Bernard Lalande of Paris, France. Active in the 1980s-1990s. Available only at French airports as souvenir perfume sets.  Traded under the name S.A.R.L. Etablissements Bernard Lalande. He produced Men's Toilet Water, After-Shave Lotions, Deodorants for Men, and Perfumes. Today, no one owns the trademark.

The bottles were made by Saint Gobain Desjonqueres, the marking is "SGD" on the base of the bottle.

Sometimes you can find a figural Eiffel Tower bottle filled with the scent Bleu de France. The bottle was made up of frosted and clear glass and was designed by Pierre Dinand in 1989 celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Eiffel Tower's construction.


The perfumes of Bernard Lalande:
  • Bleu de France
  • Bonheur du Jour
  • Parfum Jasmine 
  • Parfum Ambre 
  • Parfum Vert 
  • Parfum Muguet 
  • Parfum Irise 
  • Parfum Tuberuse 
  • Parfum Chypre 
  • Parfum Boise
  • Parfum Rose
  • Parfum Tubereuse

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Gourielli

August 11, 2015, 2:49 am
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Established in 1941 by Helena Rubinstein who was married to Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia, a Russian prince from Georgia . Princess Gourielli (Helena Rubinstein) opened the Gourielli Shop, an old fashioned brownstone front on E. 55th Street, Manhattan, that she turned into a fabulous cosmetic emporium selling old apothecary recipes combined with new scientific formulas.  The shop combined several different decorative themes which combined Old Apothecary, Early American, Victorian American, Modern and Mexican.



Rubinstein's office, entered via a white reception room which featured a bright orange carpet and a screen by Halicka, was opulent and done in a bold color scheme of bright yellow walls, mauve painted furniture, startling Mexican crimson (cochinelle) upholstery and green carpeting. Hung on the walls are Mexican paintings by Reyes in which cochinelle was used extensively. Early Victorian lace curtains, rare and luxurious, extending from ceiling to floor helped to break up the brilliant color, while the rest of teh shop, covering two floors, was appointed in equally striking manner. There was a Grey Room or men's shop which was entered through a private door. Here the boy with adolescent skin troubles would be catered to in surroundings that included a Victorian souch richly upholstered in dark empire blue faille, a Victorian round table and a screen by Vertes. On one wall was a magnificent carved gilt mirror in Mexican churrigueresque style. There was also an amusing old mug rack which held Princess Gourielli's collection of old shaving jars, some occupations representing the taxi driver, baseball player, truck driver, baker, butcher and shoe salesman.

Items to be purchased started at $2, with lipstick priced at around $2.50, high prices in 1941 when the war was still waging on. It was reported that Helena Rubinstein had a reputation as a shrewd businesswoman, intending to sell to a clientele that could afford such luxuries, in spite of the war. Her favorite advice to her salesgirls was "You have got to look right down into their pocketbooks and get that last nickel."

The fragrances of Gourielli:

  • 1941 Star Dust
  • 1941 Tang Cologne
  • 1941 White Gardenia
  • 1941 White Lilac
  • 1941 Heart Violet
  • 1941 Carnation
  • 1941 Jasmine
  • 1941 June Rose
  • 1941 Narcissus
  • 1942 Bow Tie
  • 1942 Dream Princess
  • 1943 Something Blue
  • 1943 Moonlight Mist
  • 1947 Five o'clock
  • 1947 Heart to Heart
  • 1947 Here’s HowPart of a men's soap set
  • 1947 Tipsy
  • 1948 Lily of the Valley
  • 1950 Sport of Kings (horse racing)
  • 1953 Fourth Dimension
  • 1956 Spring Lilac
  • 1957 Four Loves Have I





Five O'Clock - cool aldehydic floral (dreamy, lemon, spicy, sandalwood and jasmine)
Moonlight Mist - fresh floral - (lilac, lily of the valley, roses)
Something Blue  - floral bouquet (jasmine and sweet garden flowers)
Fourth Dimension - a spicy aldehydic floral



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Danger by Ciro c1938

August 11, 2015, 9:55 pm
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Danger by Ciro: launched in 1938.



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was described as a heavy, very spicy floral oriental fragrance for women with a dominant lavender note. It was advised to be worn during winter.
  • Top notes: bergamot, honey, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, apricot
  • Middle notes: mint, pepper, tuberose, orange blossom, violet, heliotrope, lavender, carnation, lilac
  • Base notes: wormwood, oakmoss, musk, orris, tobacco, tonka bean, sandalwood, benzoin, ambergris, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver


Business Week, 1938;
"Our Times : Danger! Ciro, of Paris, will introduce its "Danger" perfume to the American market, using Guy T. Gibson, Inc., as distributor."

The Stage, 1938:
"Ciro's Danger, that bold, saucy perfume that changes its aroma according to the person wearing it, and comes in a cut crystal bottle."

The New Yorker, 1940:
" Ciro: Danger, a lush winter scent, and the lighter Surrender."

Fashions of the Hour, 1940:
"Ciro's Danger is a fitting challenge to every woman's loveliness. It's an audacious and exciting scent in a stunning 1-ounce bottle. $12."

Mademoiselle, 1949:
"No danger in giving Ciro's Danger perfume, everyone loves it. Now in a half-ounce sire, $7.50."


Fate of the Fragrance:


Danger was discontinued by the  early 1970s, when Parfums Ciro went out of business.



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Prince Henri d'Orleans

August 14, 2015, 2:54 am
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Prince Henri d'Orleans of Paris, France.

The Skin Game, 1989:
"It was designed for the Prince Pierre Henri d'Orleans who, if there was a king in France, would be "le Comte de Paris". This distinguished gentleman had decided to launch a fragrance under his own great family name, and as the d'Orleans crest bears the emblem of the fleurs-de- lys the fragrance was to be called "Lys Bleu". 'On the bottle, which was shaped like a jewel,' Pierre Dinand added sarcastically, 'were the words "designe par le Prince Pierre Henri d'Orleans." Almost a royal warrant!' The Prince however, apparently believed tat the scent would be successful on snob value alone. 'I thought the whole idea was cuckoo,' Dinand remembers. 'The fragrance was launched in the year that Mitterrand and the socialist Left came to power — so the King of France image was not a good idea! It was like calling a fragrance Charles I in England.' According to Dinand, the company marketing the fragrance had to accept defeat. 'They sold "Lys Bleu" off to another company."



This company was Jean Pax, who introduced the fragrance as a limited edition in Nordstrom stores in 1984. The perfume was bottled in pure crystal with 24 kt gold leafing on the outside. This more extravagant fragrance sold for $550 for a two ounce bottle.


The fragrances of Prince Henri d'Orleans:
  • 1981 Lys Bleu
  • Royalissime


Lys Bleu: classified as a fresh fruity floral woody chypre fragrance for women. Lys Bleu was launched in 1981. 
  • Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, galbanum, lemon, bergamot, blackcurrant and peach
  • Middle notes: ylang-ylang, rose, gardenia, iris, narcissus, plum, hyacinth, jasmine, mimosa, lily of the valley, violet
  • Base notes: cedar, tonka, civet, orris, amber, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, labdanum, oakmoss, vanilla and musk


Royalissime: classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. 
  • Top notes: aldehydes
  • Middle notes: jasmine, gardenia, freesia, lily-of-the-valley and ylang-ylang
  • Base notes:

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Cupid’s Breath by Elizabeth Arden c1928

August 15, 2015, 12:07 pm
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Cupid’s Breath by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1928. Although Arden was an American company, many of her perfumes were manufactured in France, and this perfume was made in Paris.


It was mainly packaged in small 3/32 oz clear glass vials housed in highly polished, turned maple wooden cases. These presentations look very similar to those for the Reiger's Flower Drops perfumes of the early 1900s. The little cut glass stopper had a long dauber to reach the precious remaining drops of perfume at the bottom of the vial.   The bottle stands 2 3/8" tall. The gilded foil label reads "Elizabeth Arden New York Contents 3/32 fl oz."

Cupid's Breath was aimed towards brides and mothers of infants in some of their ads.

The name "Cupid's Breath" to be used for perfume was registered on July 24, 1928 by Florence N. Lewis, doing business an Elizabeth Arden. Renewed July 24, 1948, to Elizabeth Arden Sales Corporation, New York, N. Y.

So what does it smell like? The perfume was described as lilac scented and was in oil form. I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.

The last ad I saw for this perfume was in 1963. I believe it was shortly discontinued around that time.

Advertising and advertisements by Elbert Hubbard, 1929:
"There has been originated for us in France, an exquisitely delicate, subtle, distinctive Perfume, sweetly enchanting, christened "Cupid's Breath." The vogue with mothers."

Telegraph Delivery Spirit, 1950:
"A perfume especially appropriate for Valentine's Day is named "Cupid's Breath" and portends to have a fragrance of spring lilacs. Send white lilacs with a bottle of this, as well as with the bottle of the new Paris "lilac" scent, packaged in a special little Valentine box decorated with posies and paper lace."


c1920s-1950s. Photo by ebay seller a_passion4vintagestuff

c1950s-1960s. Photo by ebay seller vals-cargo


                                                                          

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Celluloid Toilet Sets Advertising Catalog Page c1894

August 17, 2015, 3:03 am
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Celluloid, Zylonite and White Florence Toilet Sets/Dresser Sets/Vanity Sets taken from an 1893/1894 Marshall Fields catalog. Notice the fancy molded pattern on several of the sets including some Japanese influenced Aesthetic styles.



















images: ebay seller mima48

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So You Want to Buy a Fragrance from The Vermont Country Store?

August 17, 2015, 12:47 pm
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Before you make a purchase on one of your favorite discontinued perfumes, please keep in mind that it may NOT be the same as what you wore years ago. The Vermont Country Store carries two types of perfumes: those made directly from the original manufacturers such as Lanvin, Jean Patou, etc.

The other type is the recreated vintages made by a new company, usually Long Lost Perfumes/Irma Shorell and Timeless Perfumes/Evyan Perfumes Inc, but they are NOT the genuine formula. No one knows the genuine formulas so they attempt to recreate it. Sometimes they get it very close to the original, but on some fragrances reviewers say they are way off.

Another thing to keep in mind is that due to the restrictions imposed by IFRA, many of the original ingredients used in your favorite perfume are now restricted or banned completely and cannot be used in the manufacture of perfumes now. So much of the perfumes that are made in the last few years have been reformulated to conform to these new rules.

However, the Evening in Paris is the new reformulation from the 1990s when Chanel bought out Bourjois and reformulated it and relaunched it. It doesn't smell much like the original, but I found it nice.

White Shoulders is the reformulation made by Elizabeth Arden since 1989. It isn't too bad. I have some of these myself.

The Penhaligons perfumes are still made by Penhaligon's in England.

Interlude is still made by Frances Denney.

Arpege is still made by Lanvin.

Joy is still made by Jean Patou.

The Blue Grass is still made by Elizabeth Arden.

Femme is still by Rochas.

Maja is still made by Myrurgia.

The L'Aimant, Emeraude, L'Origan and Muguet du Bois are still made by Coty.

The Lucien Lelong perfumes are from the new Lucien Lelong company, they are pretty good, but lack the intensity that the original vintages have.

The Jungle Gardenia is by the resurrected Evyan Perfumes Inc company also doing business as Timeless Perfumes. Timeless Perfumes is not associated with the previous manufacturer of any original fragrance. They also make their versions of beloved but discontinued favorites like:

  • Cie (by Jacqueline Cochran/Shulton)
  • Pique (by Paula Kent/Redken)
  • Imprevu (by Coty)
  • Chimere (by Prince Matchabelli)
  • Carnation (by Mary Chess)
  • Eau de Love (by Menley & James/MEM)
  • Fame (by Corday)
  • Flora Danica (by Royal Copenhagen)
  • Forever Krystle (by Carrington)
  • Geminesse (by Max Factor)
  • Great Lady (by Evyan)
  • Havoc (by Mary Quant)
  • Musky Jasmine (by Love's)
  • Styx (by Coty)
  • Taji (by Shulton)
  • Midnight (by Tussy)
  • Mary Chess Tuberose Gardenia (by Mary Chess)
  • Electric Youth (by Debbie Gibson)
  • Scandal (by Lanvin)
  • Babe (by Faberge)
  • Fiamma (by Princess Marcella Borghese)
  • Scoundrel (by Revlon)
  • Blue Stratos (by Shulton)


The Hai Karate (originally made by Leeming Pfizer) is made by a new company, Miners International.

Jade East (originally by Swank) is made by a new company called Songo since 2005.

Over the years The Vermont Country Store has sold the recreated perfumes by Irma Shorell/Long Lost Perfumes such as:

  • Bakir (by Germaine Monteil)
  • Replique (by Raphael)
  • Casaque (by Jean d'Albret)
  • Apple Blossom (by Helena Rubinstein)
  • My Sin (by Lanvin)
  • Crepe de Chine (by Millot)
  • Ecusson (by Jean d'Albret)
  • Memoire Cherie (by Elizabeth Arden)
  • Uninhibited (by Cher)
  • Most Precious (by Evyan)
  • Sortilege (by Le Galion)
  • Intimate (by Revlon)
  • Gardenia (by Tuvache)
  • Bond Street (by Yardley)
  • Maroc (by Ultima II)
  • Tuxedo (by Ralph Lauren)
  • Venezia (by Laura Biagiotti)
  • Golden Autumn (by Prince Matchabelli)
  • Braggi  (by Revlon)
  • Pub (by Revlon)

as well as some of Irma Shorell/Long Lost Perfumes own branded perfumes which are recreations of vintages such as:

  • Cannes (knockoff of Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve)
  • Duality (knockoff based on Anne Klein II)
  • Anarchy (knockoff of Chaos by Donna Karan)

They had to rename these as the names were already trademarked by someone else.

The Tuvaché trademark was acquired by Irma Shorell in 1999, and today the Tuvaché brand is owned by Hypoluxe Inc. Hypoluxe Inc. began introducing new fragrances under the Tuvaché brand in 2012. The Tuvache company has released some recreated and reformulated versions of:

  • Oh de London (by Yardley)
  • Tuvache Jungle Gardenia
  • Tuvache Gardenia 1933
  • Tuvache Gardenia 2012
  • Tuvache Nectaroma
  • Tuvache Tuvara



I hope this helps you all...If you are unhappy with your perfume from the Vermont Country Store, they will let you return it, so that is a good thing :)

 If you tried any of these fragrances - please share your experiences with us.
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Vintage Boudoirs of the Stars - Part 6

August 18, 2015, 9:49 pm
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Vivian Blaine, c1930s-1940s, Shalimar by Guerlain, and possibly a Czech crystal bottle to the left, Charbert bottle on right.


Virginia Mayo, c1940s, 

Toby Wing, c1930s, gorgeous long handled mirror


Toby Wing, c1930s, gorgeous mirror, another view


Sonja Henie, c1940s, Shocking by Schiaparelli, Salut by Schiaparelli box, Vol de Nuit by Guerlain, not sure what else, 


Simone Simon, c1930s-1940s, stunning Lalique or Czech tiara perfume bottle to the back of the vanity.


Ruth Hussey, c1940s, gorgeous mirror fronted vanity table.


Myrna Loy, c1920s, various DeVilbiss perfume atomizers on her vanity.

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Vacarme by Madeleine de Rauch c1967

August 20, 2015, 12:16 am
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Vacarme by Madeleine de Rauch: launched in 1967. The name is sometimes incorrectly spelled Macrame online.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm green woody floral fragrance for women with a pronounced jasmine and rose facet.
  • Top notes: bergamot, hyacinth, galbanum
  • Middle notes: jasmine, honeysuckle, oriental rose, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: labdanum, musk, sandalwood, cedar, tonka bean, vanilla, patchouli, oakmoss, amber

Vacarme was available in the following products:

  • 1/4 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • Eau de Toilette

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued sometime in the 1980s.




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Hula by Roxy c1998

August 24, 2015, 9:38 pm
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Hula by Roxy: launched in 1998. Roxy is a brand of women's surf and sportswear manufactured by Quicksilver since 1991.


Hula was created by Givaudan Roure. Hula was available as a liquid scent and a solid perfume. The perfume was contained in a long skinny glass vial, that could be used with a pink atomizer or as a dab on. The bottle was presented in a cylindrical case. The solid perfume was housed in a round tin. Or a gift set presented in an old school style metal lunchbox holding both the perfume and the solid perfume with an atomizer.

Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? The press release describes the fragrance as" a "fresh, sporty bouquet for girls searching to attain Zen on the beach"."
  • Top notes: lemon, lime, papaya, sea breeze accord
  • Middle notes: gardenia, frangipani, jasmine sambac
  • Base notes: white musk, woodsy notes, driftwood accord, surf wax accord

It smells, she said, a little like a beach, a little woody (like an old wooden long board) and a little like the ocean breeze off California. ''Which is sort of citrusy,'' Ms. Lori Smith of Givaudan Roure added, ''and it's there because when I asked surfers what they thought about when they were waiting for the next wave, they described this smell.''


Fate of the Fragrance:


Unfortunately, this fragrance has been discontinued for many years.



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Elgin American Compacts c1938 Advertisement

August 25, 2015, 9:11 pm
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Elgin American compacts shown in an advertisement from a 1938 N. Shure catalog. You can see various enameled, engine turned and cloisonne compacts.






















Original images: ebay seller gdawg

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Guimet & Valois

August 26, 2015, 12:23 pm
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Established by Rudolph Storfer in Paris; launched a range of fragrance in the 1920's and 1930's. the company also had an outlet in New York. Guimet produced perfumes, bath salts, body powders and soaps.

Be on the lookout for the satin glass powder/bath salts box created for Guimet in the early 1930s, I have seen this jar in pink glass.

The perfumes of Guimet:

  • 1925 Guimet
  • 1925 Tout Paris
  • 1925 Valois
  • 1926 Parfum de Guimet
  • 1927 Narcisse
  • 1927 Jasmin
  • 1927 Multi Fleurs
  • 1928 Les Pois de Senteur
  • 1928 Roselle
  • 1929 Chypre
  • 1929 Sweet Pea

Rose Valois was a haute couture milliner established in Paris,who brought out some perfumes in the 1920s,  by 1925, the perfumery was a subsidiary of Storfer Laboratories Inc.

The perfumes of Valois:

  • 1920 Canotier
  • 1920 Marotte
  • 1920 Aigrette
  • 1925 Chanson d’Amour
  • 1925 Petite Fleur
  • 1929 L'Ambiance de Rose Valois
  • 1930 Twist
  • 1930 Gardenia
  • 1936 Jasmin
  • 1936 Chypre
  • 1936 Kasimir
  • 1936 Parisienne




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What are Green Fragrances?

August 26, 2015, 9:38 pm
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Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Green:

the odor of a crushed leaf characterized by a fresh, clean, natural, outdoorsy scent and can include pine, mint, lavender, camphor and herbal notes. These notes are often found in men’s colognes and women’s sporty perfumes. The subdivision of classification in this family is floral green.







Fragrances which are classified as Green are:
  • Vent Vert by Balmain
  • Chanel no 19 by Chanel
  • Alfred Sung
  • Eau de Gucci
  • Safari by Ralph Lauren
  • Ivoire by Balmain
  • Silences by Jacomo
  • Grey Flannel by Guy Laroche
  • Fahrenheit by by Christian Dior
  • Inoui by Shiseido
  • Diorella by Christian Dior
  • Calvin Klein by Calvin Klein
  • Y by Yves Saint Laurent
  • Diorissimo by Christian Dior
  • Murasaki by Shiseido
  • Vivara by Emilio Pucci
  • Private Collection by Estee Lauder


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Jean de Parys

August 28, 2015, 7:50 am
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Jean de Parys of Paris France, established in 1914 by Jean Cousin in Nanterre (Seine).

Arthur Feldman, doing business as Jean de Parys, New York, N. Y. Perfumes, face creams, powders, and rouge, trademarked the name of Jean de Parys in the USA in 1924.

In 1925, Arthur Feldman, J. H. Wisan, L. Ashworth formed the Jean de Parys Corp. in New York City with $25,000 to make perfumes.



The company was short-lived but produced exquisite luxury presentations. Bottles were designed by Andre Jollivet and some were produced by Rene Lalique.

In 1928 the Jean de Parys company became the Cousin Frères and redeems the hairdresser Desfossés brand ROJA.  1932 saw the creation of the Brillantine Roja Ricinée, based on vegetable oils. Nearly 4 million units were sold in 1939. In 1953, it was the success Roja Flora Brillantine Perfume (8 million bottles sold). At that time, Roja was the undisputed leader brillantine with nearly 35% market share.



The perfumes of Jean de Parys:
  • 1921 Rose Glorie
  • 1922 Rosée d’Eté
  • 1923 Premier Desir
  • 1924 Chypre
  • 1924 Jasmin
  • 1924 Iris
  • 1924 Vague d'Or
  • 1924 L'Origan
  • 1924 Desire
  • 1925 Lady Madeleine
  • 1925 Sous le Gui
  • 1925 Arôme de Fleurs
  • 1926 Ambré de Patna
  • 1926 Bouquet de Fleurs
  • 1926 Zulena


The Miami News - Jul 15, 1926:
"Jean de Parys' Perfume and Powder. Somehow this Parisian has succeeded in capturing the most alluring and elusive of odors and bottling them for the joy of, not only the women of Paris, but now for the women of Miami, for in our Toilet Goods Department, you will find the line complete. Sous le Gui (Under the Mistletoe); Premier Desir, as fresh as the sun's first kiss to dawn; Vague d'Or (Wave of Gold); Chypre; Ambre de Patna; Lady Madelein; Bouquet de Fleurs; Zulena; Iris; and other fascinating odors. Burdine & Quaterman."

The Indianapolis News, 1926:
"Jean De Parys Perfumes are loveliest for evening occasions when soft lights flatter, when gowns are rich and gleaming, when conversation is sparkling, then Jean de Parys perfumes are most alluring! They may be worn for familytime occasions and very successfully, too, but not with the appropriateness that their exotic fragrance creates for evening. Jean de Parys perfumes may be had in Zulena, Jasmin, Chypre and Premier Desir odors, beautifully bottled, and priced, each, $15. Exclusive With Ayres in Indianapolis Ayres Toiletries, street floor. "










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