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Bal a Versailles by Jean Desprez c1962

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Bal a Versailles by Jean Desprez: launched in 1962.

As a tribute to the elegant American and French debutantes, the newborn belles of the ball, Jean Desprez created Debutante de Versailles, a limited edition perfume exclusively created for Daggett & Ramsdell. This opulent composition made up of over 300 ingredients was to become the infamous Bal a Versailles perfume in 1962, when it was offered to the public for the first time. The crystal bottles for Bal a Versailles featured an image of the Fragonard painting, Bal a Versailles on the label.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. Although, no one other than the creative geniuses at Parfums Jean Desprez know the entire formula for Bal a Versailles, we do know that these ingredients are definitely in the opulent mixture:

  • Top notes: aldehydes, basil, bergamot, blackcurrant buds and leaves, cajuput, cinnamon, clary sage, coriander, eucalyptus, grapefruit, hyssop, lemon, lemongrass, lime, mandarin orange, neroli, niaouli, orange, peppermint, petitgrain, ravensara, sage, spearmint, tagetes, tangerine, tea tree, thyme, verbena
  • Middle notes: bay, black pepper, Bulgarian rose, cardamom, chamomile, cypress, fennel, geranium, ho leaf, ho wood, hyssop, jasmine, juniper, lavender, lilac, lily-of-the-valley, marjoram, melissa, myrtle, nutmeg,  orange blossom, palmarosa, pine, rose de Mai, rosemary, spikenard, yarrow
  • Base notes: ambergris, benzoin, cassia, cedarwood, cinnamon, civet, clove, frankincense, ginger, melilot, musk, myrrh, oakmoss, orris root, patchouli, Peru balsam, resins, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, tolu balsam, valerian, vanilla, vetiver, ylang ylang

Click HERE to purchase Vintage 1970s Bal a Versailles 5.5 oz EDT Refillable Natural Spray 
Click HERE to purchase Vintage 1980s Bal a Versailles 5.5 oz EDT Refillable Natural Spray 



Fate of the Fragrance:


Bal a Versailles has suffered from reformulations throughout the years as well as been owned by different companies.

After the death of Jean Desprez at the age of 72, his son Denis Desprez, who worked for the company for 25 years, took over as managing director of the company and preserved the glorious French tradition of the company. Eschewing quantity and respecting the high quality of his perfumes, he respectfully carried on his father's personal mantra: Perfume is a work of art!. Denis' sister, Marie-Celine Grenier worked in the laboratory creating perfumes.

Parfums Jean Desprez was sold several times over the years. In the 1980s, it was owned by Alfin Fragrances Inc. You can tell these early boxes by their sunflower yellow shade. The parfum flacons were housed in luxurious satin coffrets covered in the leaf pattern. Also, the Parfum de Toilette spray canisters repeated this pattern.




 In 1994, Parfums Jean Desprez, S.A. was acquired by "Inter Parfums Paris" which had licenses. On March 19, 1996, the Company sold the trademarks of the Bal `a Versailles and Revolution' a Versailles lines. The aggregate sales price was $4.95 million which included $1.8 million of inventory at cost, to the American company "Parlux Fragrances Inc." It seems that some of the Bal a Versailles products were then housed in either the yellow boxes, possibly old store stock, with a modified look and some in dark blue boxes. The parfum flacons were still housed in the satin covered coffrets.



Parlux then licensed the Bal a Versailles fragrance to Genesis International Marketing Corp of Miami in 1998, and then, it was eventually sold to Genesis International Marketing Corporation in 2001, who renewed the Bal a Versailles trademark under their name. The Genesis boxes were at first a white color and then morphed into the shiny gold foil boxes we are familiar with today.



Genesis licensed the Bal a Versailles perfume to an investment company, SEI Corporation in 2009, which has been in the process of relaunching Bal a Versailles, playing up the hype that it was the late Michael Jackson's favorite fragrance, amongst other celebrities on its website, perhaps to engage new customers, but also reminding us that Jean Desprez was a fragrant genius.

The company was hosting some sort of evaluation of two different formulas for their new Bal a Versailles perfume, these two formulas were dubbed 'Platine' (a modern fruity floral) and 'Gold' (a gourmand oriental). Interested parties had to contact the website owners and purchase one of the evaluation bottles in order to give it a review. I was tempted to do this myself, but at the moment I don't have the extra funds to throw away just for a review, especially since they are large bottles, I might not even like the scent.

DeeHowe at botoblog has mentioned that she received the 'Platine' version and it is...fruity with notes of pink pepper.

The Bal a Versailles trademark was renewed in 2014 by Genesis, so I am expecting one of the new, reformulated versions to be introduced soon, which I can be sure it will be completely devoid of oakmoss in accordance to IFRA regulations. Though I am keeping my fingers crossed and hoping that it resembles the original in some form as it is one of my personal favorites.


HAPPI, 1996:
"Parlux To Market Bal a Versailles Scent. Parlux Fragrances has signed a letter of intent with two subsidiaries of Jean Philippe Fragrances to acquire the trademarks of Parfums Jean Desprez Paris, makers of the Bal a Versailles women's fragrance."

The Parfum came in various sizes:

  • 0.125 oz mini splash
  • 0.25 mini splash
  • 0.25 oz purse spray




The Parfum de Toilette Deluxe is housed inside of a crystal bottle and dates from 1970s-1980s and came in several sizes:

  • 9 oz. crystal flacon stands 8 1/2" tall 
  • 4.5 oz. crystal flacon stands 7 1/2" tall
  • 2.5 oz. crystal flacon stands 6" tall 
  • 1.5 oz. crystal flacon stands 5 1/4"



The Parfum de Toilette Spray came in metal canisters, with the leaf pattern and the Fragonard image:

  • 2 oz Natural Spray




Eau Bal a Versailles Spray Luxe, a refillable aerosol spray, introduced in 1972:

  • 5.5  oz


The Eau de Toilette Natural Spray came in various sizes:

  • 5.5 oz Eau de Toilette Refillable Natural Spray
  • 3.3 oz 


The Eau de Toilette Spray also came in in the clear, disk bottle, with the lyre cap:

  • 1.7 oz 
  • 3.4 oz 

The Eau de Toilette Splash came in the clear, disk bottle with the lyre cap:

  • 1.7 oz 




The Eau de Cologne splash came in various sizes:

  • 16 oz.
  • 8 oz. stands 
  • 4 oz. stands 7" tall
  • 1.9 oz stands
  • 5" tall
  • 4.75" tall
  • 3.75" tall


The Eau de Cologne spray can be found housed in a white opaline glass bottle as well as a white tin canister with the gold leaf design and Fragonard painting image, this came in various sizes:

  • 3 oz
  • 1 oz  stands 4 1/2" tall






Bath & Body Products:

  • 1 Cake 
  • 2 Cakes of Soap with Dish
  • 0.33oz Bath Oil  
  • 5 oz Bath Powder w/Puff 
  • 5 oz Bath Powder Refill
  • 6.7 oz Body Cream
  • 5.8 oz Body Lotion (lyre cap)
  • 8 oz Body Lotion 
  • 5.8 oz Bath Gel (lyre cap)



Perfumed Medallion introduced in 1982.

Texas Monthly - May 1982:
"Bal a Versailles by Jean Desprez. A beautiful effusion of fragrance and florals. Perfume, 1 oz., $150; the Limoges pendant, a fragranced medallion, refillable, $65."





Old Favorites Are Back Again!

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Are you still mourning the loss of Faberge's Babe, Coty's Tribe, Goya's Black Rose or Aqua Manda? Well wipe away those tears as a new company Beauty Brand Development  has acquired the rights to produce and sell these long lost faves.

Beauty Brand Development states that they "reached out to fans help us recreate [these fragrances] through social media and the internet and we were overwhelmed by the response. Some fans of [these fragrances] had an intimate knowledge and appreciation of the perfume so we invited these fans to work with us in bringing back [these fragrances], drawing on their fond recollection to make it as near to the original as possible.

After lengthy research we were fortunate enough to find the original ingredients from the public records and from collectors of the original [fragrances]. This gave us the assurance that we could recreate the original [fragrances].

We employed the renowned French perfumer, Givaudan to develop the perfume, working with this information in their highly specialised laboratories to create numerous samples for the fans to test and eventually approve."


Faberge's Babe was launched in 1976 and was discontinued in 1992. Babe opens with a fresh burst of lavender, aldehydes and hyacinth offering radiance and energy. A bouquet of exquisite and elegant flowers exhales vitality and colourfulness. The end note is a refined woody scent of warm sandalwood rounded by sensual solar accord, moss and ambrette that leave a gracious and delightful trail on the skin."






Tribe was launched by Coty in 1991 but was discontinued in 1997.

"Alluring and addictive, Tribe is designed to suit every woman and make their life full of colour.

Opening with a bright cocktail of juicy fruits, a delighted bouquet of rose, jasmine and orange flower brings the femininity. Then, soft musks, creamy vanilla and sheer cedarwood are enveloping and comfortable offering a bold and unique signature."



Black Rose by Goya was launched in 1955 but discontinued around 1984.

"Goya Black Rose was first created in the 1950's by the founder of Goya, Douglas Collins. The heritage of creating beautiful perfumes was then inherited by his son Christopher Collins. Christopher Collins and the original oil suppliers have acted as advisors on the relaunch of this iconic perfume. After extensive research and investigation the original formulas for this perfume have been discovered at the Amersham Museum, these historical documents have been referenced to recreate the beautiful romantic fragrance of Black Rose.

Making the fragrance as close as possible to the original. Because memories are so precious. This fragrance begins with a sparkling citrus green accord of bergamot and green stems contrasted by the irreverent clove. The heart of the composition reveals a fresh and feminine floral bouquet of rose, Damask rose, geranium and enhanced by a comfortable drydown of the white flowers of jasmine, solar notes and the sensuality of a velvety musk."



Aqua Manda by Goya was launched in 1947 and discontinued in 1975. It was recreated in 2013.

"This recreation of the original scent has been painstakingly developed by a team of perfumers at the original oil suppliers and after many trials and tests it has been approved by the original creator of the Aqua Manda fragrance, Christopher Collins, who has acted as an advisor on its relaunch.

Aqua Manda Perfume is back again, enjoy the lingering, refreshing fragrance of this classic perfume, made with essential oils of mandarin, ginger, lavender, patchouly, cinnamon, and other aromatic herbs."



Aqua Citra by Goya was launched in 1973, but discontinued in 1975. It was recreated in 2014.

"Aqua Citra is the sister perfume to Aqua Manda and is born from the same era, made with essential oils of Mediterranean lemon, ginger, lavender, patchouly, cinnamon, and other aromatic herbs.

An explosion of citrus notes combined with a soft spicy accord brings a contrasted freshness to the green floral heart of the composition, leaving an addictive woody and musky drydown at the end.

The recreation of the original scent has been painstakingly developed by a team of perfumers at the original oil suppliers and after many trials and tests it has been approved by the original creator of the Aqua Manda fragrance, Christopher Collins, who has acted as an advisor on its relaunch."



ABP Cut Glass Perfume Bottles & Boxes c1915 Advertisement

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Ads of American Brilliant Cut Glass perfume bottles/cologne bottles, vanity accessories (trays, bud vases)  and boxes (puff, hair receivers, powder, jewel, handkerchief, glove) taken from a 1915 B. Allen & Co. publication.


























Andiamo by Princess Marcella Borghese c1970

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Andiamo by Princess Marcella Borghese: launched in 1970. The name means "let's go!" in Italian.




Andiamo was available in the following products:

  • Parfum (Profumo)
  • Perfume Oil
  • Eau de Parfum Spray
  • Eau de Parfum Splash
  • Natural Spray Cologne (Acqua di Profumo)
  • Cologne Splash
  • Solid Perfume Compact
  • Dusting Powder
  • Milk Bath


Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a woody floral oriental fragrance for women, a blend of woodsy amber, with smooth, sparkling citrus, musk, roses over ferns.

  • Top notes: bergamot
  • Middle notes: lavender, rose, spices
  • Base notes: amber, sandalwood, patchouli, labdanum, oakmoss, vanilla, tonka, musk


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.



Claire Parfumeur, Inc

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Claire Parfumeur, Inc  of Paris, France, elegant Paris shop specializing in luxury fashions and perfumes, established in 1924 by Rodney Wanamaker , a member of the founding family of John Wanamaker, department stores in the US. Claire also had a shop at Fifth Avenue, New York; launched a range of fragrances: associated to Evenod Parfumeur.








The perfumes of Claire:
  • 1920 Yu Yu
  • 1920 Fleur d'Or
  • 1922 Muguet
  • 1922 Chypre
  • 1922 Rose
  • 1922 Fleurette
  • 1922 Violette
  • 1922 Parfum Marguerite
  • 1922 Vision d'Annam
  • 1922 Origan
  • 1923 Oree
  • 1923 Le Beau Narcisse
  • 1927 Memorie
  • 1928 Fascination
  • 1929 Numero II


A Lalique perfume bottle for CLAIRE, "Oree", in clear and Frosted glass with sepia patina, stopper molded "LALIQUE", base molded "FRANCE", with paper label from the Wanamaker Stores. 8cm (3.25in) high. Photo courtesy of Rago Arts & Auction Center.

Evenod of New York; launched a range of fragrances in 1925; affiliated with Jules V Riviere Perfumes.

The perfumes of Evenod:

  • 1925 Evenod
  • 1925 Evenod Twelve
  • 1925 Jules V Riviere
  • 1925 Memoire

Elgin American Beauty c1951 Advertisement #2

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Striking full color advertisements for Elgin compacts from a 1951 General American Co. catalog.



















images: ebay seller gdawg

Sabi by Henry Dunay c1998

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Sabi by Henry Dunay: launched in 1998. Henry collaborated on the alchemy of a Sabi scent with his younger brother, Richard "The Nose" Loniewski. "We tested many different blends over a period of years to find the one that was as elegant as my jewelry," says Henry.

Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is a classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women. Composed of over 250 individual ingredients, mostly natural.
  • Top notes: Indian mandarin, clove, carnation, angelica, orange blossom absolute and bergamot
  • Middle notes: lily, rose, ylang ylang, hyacinth absolute, jonquil absolute, yellow narcissus, French narcissus, French jasmine absolute, violet leaf and tuberose
  • Base notes: vanilla, oakmoss, East Indian sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, tonka bean and musk

Bottles:


Dunay designed a beautiful bottle of perfume with a price tag of $225 per ounce. "It was important to me that they looked good on the dressing table and felt good in your hand." The Sabi body lotion and shower creme came in large stock plastic bottles. "The lotion goes in the bathroom so you can't do it in glass because it might break," explains Henry. "But I did create the gold cap with facets."  The bottles came in black boxes with gold trim and lettering, which Henry also designed. 

Also in 1998, a connoisseur's edition was released, consisting of the fragrance in a double bottle topped with an 18k gold and pave diamond cap. For a limited edition of only 100 examples, Henry made Sabi the most expensive fragrance in the world. He went over the top of the columnar bottles with a gold and diamond-encrusted convertible cap. The lavish top could be screwed into a pendant attachment and worn as a piece of jewelry. The actual perfume was housed in a removable, refillable one-ounce bottle nestled in an outer glass decanter. The cap comes with a pendant attachment and silk cord to create the necklace. Only 100 of the limited-edition bottle-cum-jewel were produced; signed, numbered, and presented in a black lacquer box lined with 24k gold leaf. The exceptional presentation retailed for $30,000.


 A Diamond and Gold Pendant Necklace, by Henry Dunay, designed as a scent bottle, in 18k fluted and textured gold, enhanced by a panel of pavé-set diamonds, opening to reveal a compartment, suspended from a black silk cord, 32½ ins. Signed Dunay for Henry Dunay. The pendant was originally a cap to a limited edition series of perfume bottles. Each of the one hundred bottles was set with a gold and diamond cap, which doubled as an unusual pendant necklace.



Caline by Jean Patou c1964

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Câline by Jean Patou: launched in 1964 and created by Henri Giboulet.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot orange, mandarin, mimosa, orange blossom water, basil mint
  • Middle notes: carnation, cyclamen, jasmine, citrus blossom, rose, orris, cilantro, ginger, patchouli, ylang-ylang
  • Base notes: amber, musk, labdanum, cedarwood, oakmoss, sandalwood

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.





ON EBAY!! Box for Marcel Guerlain Pavillon Royal Perfume c1924

What are Fruity Floral Fragrances?

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Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Fruity Floral: 

one of the newest members of the perfume family, mainly used in women’s fragrances. These fragrances are comprised of blending traditional floral notes with the youthful addition of fruity notes such as peach. There are subdivisions of classifications in this family and they are: floral fruity woody, and fruity chypre.





Perfumes which are classified as Floral Fruity are:
  • Lauren by Ralph Lauren
  • Amazone by Hermes
  • Kenzo by Kenzo
  • Anne Klein by Anne Klein
  • Tiffany by Tiffany & Co
  • Fidji by Guy Laroche
  • First by Van Cleef & Arpels
  • K de Krizia
  • Norell by Revlon
  • Armani by Giorgio Armani
  • Nahema by Guerlain
  • Clin d’Oeil by Bourjois
  • Metal by Paco Rabanne
  • Diorissimo by Christian Dior
  • KL by Karl Lagerfeld
  • Anais Anais by Cacharel
  • Parure by Guerlain
  • Zen by Shiseido
  • Guirlandes by Carven
  • Lauren Ashley #1 by Laura Ashley
  • Clair du Jour by Lanvin
  • Azzaro by Loris Azzaro
  • Fantasque by Louis Feraud
  • Jour by Louis Feraud
  • Maxim’s de Paris
  • Missoni by Missoni


Coeur-Joie by Nina Ricci c1946

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Coeur-Joie by Nina Ricci: launched in 1946. It was created by Germaine Cellier.

It was available in parfum, eau de cologne known as Eau de Coeur Joie and in eau de toilette concentrations.




Fragrance composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a lush, powdery floral aldehyde fragrance for women with a warm, woodsy base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, lemon balm, bergamot, neroli, hyacinth
  • Middle notes: gardenia, violet absolute, orange blossom, Oriental rose, jasmine absolute, Florentine iris
  • Base notes: orris butter, civet, precious woods


Woman's guide to Europe, 1954:
"Nina Ricci, 22 Rue des Capucines. "Coeur Joie"— deliciously citrous; "Fille d'Eve"— exciting. Both come in Lalique flacons. "Douce" and "l'Air du Temps" — fresh and youthful." .

Perfume and flavor materials of natural origin, 1960:
"Perfumers will no doubt recall a French perfume of the late 1930's, put out by Nina Ricci and named "Coeur-Joie", which means "heart's delight". This perfume certainly had a melissa-like, fresh topnote and lightness of floral fragrance."

Cosmopolitan, 1962:
"Exhilarating, exciting with all the blithe spirit of Nina Ricci's famous perfume, L'Air du Temps! 1001 sprays in classic fluted white column with golden band. Nina Ricci Fragrance Sprays are also available in Coeur-Joie, Fille D'Eve and Capricci."

Mademoiselle, 1981:
"Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps and Coeur Joie (still available in France) are the only perfume bottles to be made in the Lalique factory for Nina Ricci after WW2. (Lalique on the bottom of, say, a post ware Worth bottle simply means that the original design or mold was Lalique.) Which Riccis are best to collect? VP Marketing Director Freda Robinson points out that larger sizes have rarity going for them- the most extreme example being the 43-ounce bird flacon of L’Air du Temps Eau de Toilette at $1,350."

The bottles:

Deluxe Heart bottles:


These deluxe bottles held parfum and were manufactured by Lalique. There are four sizes of the frosted glass heart motif bottles, manufactured by Lalique. All should be marked with "Bottle made by Lalique, France" and the 3 largest bottles are also signed "Coeur Joie" and "Nina Ricci". The older bottles have heart shaped openings in all of the bottle sizes, the newer bottles have more circular openings in the smaller bottles.

Bottle sizes:

  • 6" tall
  • 4 3/4" tall
  • 4" tall
  • 3 1/2" tall


Heart motif purse bottles:

These frosted glass heart motif laydown bottles were also made by Lalique and held parfum. They have small screw caps on them and were housed in celluloid boxes.

Bottle sizes:
  • 4" long (four hearts)
  • 3 1/8" long (three hearts)
  • 2 1/4" long (two hearts)
  • 1 1/2" long (one heart)










Parfum Splash Bottles:


These crystal bottles were also designed and made Lalique (though some bottles not marked by Lalique and were marked with the Jacqueline Cochran name are made by Pochet et du Courval based on the original Lalique designs) and have a bulbous shape with a graceful tapered neck. They will be fitted with octagonal crystal stoppers and have gold serigraphy across their bellies with the name of the perfume.

The bottle sizes:
  • 4" tall (2 oz)
  • 3 1/2" tall (1 oz)
  • 2 1/2" tall (1/2 oz)
  • 2" tall (1/6 oz) (screwcap)



Eau de Coeur Joie Splash Bottles:


These eau de cologne (Eau de Coeur Joie) and eau de toilette Lalique bottles are nearly identical to the splash flacons pictured above, except for the fact that these are not fitted with crystal stoppers, but rather gilded screw caps. 

Bottle sizes:

  • 4" tall 






Disk Shaped Splash Bottles:

These are found in both parfum and eau de toilette concentration. The bottles were manufactured by Lalique, the circular body has a scalloped design around the edges and a spherical glass stopper with the initials NR raised on the neck. These bottles were fitted with round paper labels. The Eau de Coeur Joie bottles were fitted with a gilded screw cap.



Parfum Bottle sizes:
  • 8.75" tall
  • 5 1/8" tall  (6.8 oz), with screw cap
  • 5" tall (3.3 oz) 
  • 4 1/2" tall, parfum with oval shaped body, crystal stopper
  • 4 1/4" tall (1 3/4 oz), parfum with crystal stopper
  • 4" tall, parfum with crystal stopper
  • 3 3/4" tall
  • 3 1/4" tall (1 oz) parfum, with crystal stopper
  • 3" tall (1/4 oz) 
  • 2 5/8" tall (3/7 oz), parfum with crystal stopper
  • 2 3/4" tall 
Eau de Coeur Joie Bottle sizes:
  • 6 1/4" tall (6.8 oz), eau de toilette with crystal stopper
  • 4 3/4" tall, eau de toilette with screw cap
Bath Oil bottles:
  • 2 1/8" tall, bath oil with screw cap





Fate of the Fragrance:

Despite the high quality of the Nina Ricci perfumes, four fragrances were unsuccessful in the American market (Coeur Joie, Capricci, Farouche and Fleurs de Fleurs), yet, they are successful in Europe. Why? Because most American women prefer stronger fragrances rather than the light, flowery scents enjoyed by European women. Furthermore, European women believe femininity is enhanced by a perfume, and they place more importance on the decorative crystal bottles and packaging than American women do. “ The French image of perfume is very romantic, feminine and sophisticated,” says Lina Vitali, vice president of Parfums Nina Ricci, USA in 1989. “The American perfume’s image is more aggressive, sexual and overpowering.”

Though very hard to find, it is still being sold today. You can purchase the 15ml Lalique flacon of parfum at www.ninaricci.com








Paco Rabanne by Paco Rabanne c1973

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Paco Rabanne by Paco Rabanne: launched in 1973. Created by Jean Martel of Givaudan.






Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic fougere fragrance for men.
  • Top notes: thyme, estragon, artemisia, bergamot, rosemary, clary sage and Brazilian rosewood
  • Middle notes: sage, carnation, lentisk from mediterranean garrigues, tonka bean, lavender and geranium
  • Base notes: honey, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, amber, musk and oakmoss

Bottle:






Fate of the Fragrance:


The fragrance has been reformulated over the years and the formula a slightly different, but still classified as an aromatic fougere.
  • Top notes: rosemary, clary sage, Brazilian rosewood
  • Middle notes: tonka bean, lavender, geranium
  • Base notes: honey, amber, musk, oakmoss




Evernia by Lamballe c1940

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Evernia by Lamballe: launched in 1940. The name comes from Evernia prunastri, also known as oakmoss, also known as Mousse de Chene.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a heavy oriental perfume with sweet balsamic and spicy notes layered over precious woods.
  • Top notes: acacia, pepper, honey
  • Middle notes: myrrh, opoponax, frankincense, heliotrope, violet, mimosa, elemi
  • Base notes: sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin, patchouli, amber, musk, castoreum, oakmoss, tonka


Upon first sniff the pepper note is very strong and mixed with the incense, resins and woods. Then a balsamic cloud of sweetness mingling vanilla and benzoin open up the composition. The vanilla is very much like the vanilla found in vintage Shalimar perfume. A dollop of heliotrope brings forth a sweetened cherry piece marzipan note which combined with the vanilla produce a gourmand effect that I find very appealing. There doesn't seem to be much floral notes in here but a trace of violet and honeyed mimosa and acacia. A slight playdoh note from the amber and heliotrope make this very enjoyable on the skin.

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, probably sometime in the 1960s. Today you may only come across this perfume in a set of miniatures along with Fragonard and Mercoeur like I did.



Demi-Jour by Houbigant c1929 and c1987

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Demi-Jour by Houbigant: launched in 1929.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm, woody-mossy-leafy chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes: sandalwood, tonka, patchouli, oak moss, ambergris, musk, cedar, labdanum



The New Yorker, Volume 15, 1939:
"Houbigant’s perfume Demi-Jour is a weird one, to be sure. On most skins it is highly sensuous and inviting, but on some it emerges as a light, refreshing scent. Either way, it is a beauty.  Popular in Europe, it has only  presently been brought here, and is to be found on the counters of Saks-Fifth Avenue, Altman and Lord & Taylor."

Harper's Bazaar, 1939:
""Demi Jour," the name of Houbigant's newest perfume, means "Twilight." The delicate scent is strangely haunting once you've used it. The large size, $18.50."

The New Yorker, 1939:
"Houbigant: Demi Jour, the latest, is such a warm, subtle perfume that people might even think it was a part of you."

Esquire, 1939:
"Houbigant's versatile Demi- Jour, a subtly defined, distinctive scent, combining dignity and elegance for town. Grenoville's frankly sexy, exotic Piege for the "oomph" girl of 1939. "

Fodor's France, 1951:
"Houbigant, 19, Faubourg Saint-Honore. "Chantilly"— delicate, well-liked by active young women ; "Demi- jour"— tea-for-two sort of perfume ; "Fougere Royale"—for men ; "Presence"— velvety, lasting ; "Quelques Fleurs"— fresh, flowery."

La vie parisienne sous l'occupation, 1940-1944, 1971:
"...tandis que Houbigant crée cinq nouveaux cocktails d'essences précieuses, capiteux avec 'Présence', miellé avec 'Transparence', sensuel avec 'Contraste' , soutenu avec 'Demi- jour' et printanier avec 'Floraison ."

Bottles:


Demi-Jour was housed in two different sized iridescent flacons, as well as a small disk shaped purse flacon which was housed in a black satin pouch.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 44, 1939:
"HOUBIGANT Houbigant makes a selective American introduction of their exquisite Parfum Demi-Jour, "Twilight," to fit the fashion lead of today. "Prettiness" is the vogue and Demi-Jour personifies it. Its presentation is in the most appealing feminine style. The brown moire coffret with light yellow crepe lining makes an attractive setting for the stunning iridescent flacon."






Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1956.





Demi-Jour by Houbigant: launched in 1987. The perfume was a resurrection of Houbigant's 1933 perfume of the same name. I am not sure if the notes are similar though.

Between 1994 and 1996 Houbigant entered into a series of licensing agreements with Dana Perfumes Corporation and Houbigant (1995) and the perfume was reformulated due to IFRA regulations concerning oakmoss and other ingredients. Many people report that the fragrance under the Dana name does not smell as it did when it was sold under the Houbigant name.

The 1987 version by Houbigant had an ancillary line which was quite expensive at the time, it included:
  • 150gr Dusting Powder, retailed for $71
  • 10ml Parfum, retailed for $165
  • 50ml Eau de Parfum Spray, retailed for $59
  • 100ml Eau de Parfum Spray, retailed for $89
  • 250ml Eau de Toilette, retailed for $120

So what does it smell like? It is described as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, violet and bergamot
  • Middle notes: orris root, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, oakmoss and cedar

Today you can still find this perfume and body products online.
  • 0.10 oz (3ml) Parfum Splash Mini Flacon
  • 0.13 oz (4ml) Eau de Parfum Splash Mini Flacon
  • 0.33 oz (10ml) Parfum Splash
  • 0.25 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1 oz (30ml) Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1.67 oz (50ml) Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 3.3 oz (100ml) Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 8.5 oz (250ml) Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 7.75 oz (230ml) Eau de Toilette Splash (Dana)
  • 2 oz Dusting Powder
  • 5.25 oz Poudre Parfumee Dusting Powder
  • 5 oz Crème Parfumee

Bottles:







Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.



AJ Hilbert & Co.

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AJ Hilbert & Co. was located at 517 521 Prairie Street Milwaukee and De Pere, WI.

Established 1888 by Augustus J Hilbert.




In addition to perfumes, it seems this company also produced flavoring extracts, toiletries and cosmetics. Their perfumes were often combined with the words Essence De Luxe or Ultra Ess (Ultra Essence). The company seems to have had it start in the 1890s and continued up until the late 1920s. Their products were offered in the Sears and Roebuck mail order catalogs in the early 1900s.

Prices Current By Fuller & Fuller Co., Chicago, 1907:

I have only found a small handful of perfume names, I know there has got to be more, so if you know of any, please let me know. Thanks!

The perfumes of AJ Hilbert and Co:
  • 1893 Crab Apple Blossom De Luxe
  • 1893 Carnation Pink
  • 1893 Jicky Ultra Ess De Luxe
  • 1893 Extract of White Rose
  • 1893 De Luxe
  • 1894 Stolen Sweets
  • 1897 Kismet
  • 1900 Korn Blume
  • 1900 Violette Immortelle
  • 1900 American Beauty
  • 1903 Beauty Buds 
  • 1903 De Luxe Face Powder 
  • 1903 De Luxe Perfume 
  • 1903 Essence De Luxe  
  • 1903 Floralia Perfume - Frangipanni
  • 1903 Floralia Perfume - Rose Geranium
  • 1903 Floralia Perfume - Sweet Pea
  • 1903 Floralia Perfume - Wood Violet
  • 1903 Forget me not 
  • 1903 Lano Cream 
  • 1903 Mascot 
  • 1903 May Flower 
  • 1903 Mikado Rose 
  • 1903 Philopena 
  • 1903 Princess Violet 
  • 1903 Queen Esther 
  • 1903 Rex Violet 
  • 1908 The Merry Widow
  • 1908 Arbutus
  • 1908 Carnation
  • 1908 Cuir de Russe
  • 1908 De Luxe Florida Water
  • 1908 Dearie
  • 1908 Furore
  • 1908 Hawthorne Blossoms
  • 1908 Jasmine
  • 1908 Jockey Club
  • 1910 Lilac Blossoms
  • 1910 Lily of the Valley
  • 1910 May Blossoms
  • 1910 Mi Carmen
  • 1910 Musk
  • 1910 New Mown Hay
  • 1910 Pansy Blossoms
  • 1910 Patchouli
  • 1910 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1910 Pond Lily
  • 1910 Primrose
  • 1910 Senstation
  • 1910 Trixie
  • 1910 Ultra
  • 1910 Ultra Rose
  • 1910 Ultra Violet
  • 1910 White Rose
  • 1910 Wild Olive
  • 1910 Ylang-Ylang
  • 1912 Aloha
  • 1927 Black Cap
  • 1930 Nuit de Juin


Robe d'Un Soir by Carven c1947

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Robe d'Un Soir by Carven: launched in 1947. The name means "evening gown" in French.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classic floral-aldehyde perfume for women. With a powdery opening with an opulent woody note.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin, neroli and peach
  • Middle notes: carnation, lilac, jasmine, lily, orris root, May rose and ylang-ylang
  • Base notes: amber, benzoin, Virginia cedar, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver


Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued, date unknown.



Maja by Myrurgia c1921

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Maja by Myrurgia, the scent of seduction and Spanish passion. Maja was originally launched in 1921 is pronounced MA'-HA.

Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is described as a classic spicy oriental fragrance for women
  • Top notes: citrus notes, bergamot, geranium, carnation
  • Middle notes: orange blossom, nutmeg, jasmine, wild lavender, cloves, rose d’Orient
  • Base notes: cypress, patchouli, vetiver, tonka bean, ambergris, sandalwood, oakmoss, labdanum
The very name Maja means “beautiful woman” and for those who wished to exude the allure of an exotic beauty, Maja was certainly a fragrance that answered that wish. The distinctive label of Maja’s perfumes and soap boxes were directly inspired by the dancing of Tórtola Valencia and her lovely figure.





Bottles:


The perfume was presented in various perfume bottles over the years and the boxes covered in paper printed with the image of a Spanish shawl in red, gold and black, colors traditionally associated with Spain. The earliest flacons were designed by Julien Viard and some had tall figural stoppers in the shape of a fountain. Some bottles were clear crystal and others came in a rare black crystal flacon luxuriously accented with black gilding.




Over the years, the fragrance of Maja could be found in Pure Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Parfum de Toilette, Cologne (Colonia), Locion (not today’s body moisturizer lotions), talcum powder, shower gel, body lotion, liquid hand soap, and scented soap (jabon). Today, I use the scented Maja soaps, rich in lather and olive oil, they have a very soft, subtle scent that lingers on the skin hours after bathing.

Fate of the Fragrance:


In 1960, a new version of Maja appeared on the market, aptly named Nueva Maja (New Maja). This fragrance has been discontinued for years. But Maja is still available for purchase in it’s many forms. The original fragrance of Maja is best to be found only in vintage form as it was reformulated several times over the years.

Macassar by Rochas c1980

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Macassar by Rochas: launched in 1980 in association with Wella. Created by Nicolas Mamounas in collaboration with Roger Pellegrino of Firmenich.



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a trend setting woody-leather aromatic chypre fragrance for men.
  • Top notes: absinthe, bay, ginger, green notes, artemisia and bergamot
  • Middle notes: pine tree needles, lignum vitae, carnation, cedar, geranium, jasmine, patchouli and vetiver
  • Base notes: Macassar wood, guaiac wood, musk, ambergris, tobacco blossom, sandalwood, oakmoss and leather

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Reformulated and relaunched in 2004.
  • Top notes: laurel, wormwood, fruity notes
  • Middle notes: tobacco flower, geranium, carnation, patchouli, vetiver
  • Base notes: sandalwood, oak moss, guaiac wood, cedar wood, musk, amber, coconut, Macassar wood

Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese c1965

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Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese: launched in 1965. The name means "flame" in Italian.




Town & Country, Volume 119, 1965:
"Princess Marcella Borghese quietly introduced a fragrance a few months ago that we find in tune with this quartet. ... This last personality trait must have influenced the name Fiamma. which, translated from Italian. means “flame.” 

Fiamma was available in the following products:

  • Parfum (Profumo)
  • Perfume Oil
  • Eau de Parfum Spray
  • Natural Spray Cologne (Acqua di Profumo)
  • Cologne Splash
  • Solid Perfume Compact
  • Dusting Powder
  • Milk Bath


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women with a warm blend of flowers, sandalwood, spices and other oriental essences.

  • Top notes: bergamot and galbanum
  • Middle notes: carnation and other floral notes
  • Base notes: benzoin, vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, cedar, spices, musk, vetiver



Town & Country - Volume 119, 1965:
"And among the reams of reasons for the lack of entrants in the volatile race to be a woman's favored fragrance is that an average of ten years is necessary to develop and refine ... Princess Marcella Borghese quietly introduced a fragrance a few months ago that we find in tune with this quartet. Upon character analysis there emerge woody notes, floral tones, and a strong accent of warm spices. This last personality trait must have influenced the name Fiamma. which, translated from Italian. means “flame.” A spraying of this aqua di profumo is not likely to put out fires—rather fan them."

Vogue, 1966:
"Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese means flame, blaze: an inflammatory substance that reached these shores in the shape of Profumo (perfume) an Acqua di Profumo ( cologne) last spring."

Harper's Bazaar, Volume 100, 1967:
"Carrara marble inspired the elegantly contemporary new packages for Princess Marcella Borghese Perfumes — a natural choice to project the pure Romanesque enchantment of these fascinating fragrances. Inside the lightly veined marbleized packages, graceful clean-cut bottles  hold two beloved perfumes: Ecco for the eternal woman,  a blend of herbs with notes of jasmine and rose: and Fiamma, a fiery brilliancy that is indefinably feminine and sophisticated. In either scent. Princess Marcella Borghese Perfume Oil. 1 oz, $6.75; Acqua di Profumo, 2 oz, $6.50. At Bonwit Teller."

House & Garden - Volume 133, 1968:
"Floral Fiamma- scented candle pretty enough to put on a dressing table in white sculptured ceramic holder. By Princess Marcella Borghese for Revlon, $10."

Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office: Patents, Volume 901, 1972:
"The Princess Marcella Borghese, Inc., New York, N.Y. Filed Mar. 26, 1969. FIAMMA. Fiamma is a single word mark and means flame; blaze, tire ; (naut.) pennant; (mil.) facings (on the collar); (fig.) lover, mistress. For Perfume, Perfume Oil, Toilet Water, Bath Oil, Dusting Powder."


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.


Savoir Faire by Dorothy Gray c1936

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Savoir Faire by Dorothy Gray: launched in 1936. Savoir Faire was a line by Dorothy Gray that included: parfum, eau de parfum, face powder, compact, night cream, dusting powder, cleansing cream and lipstick.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes
  • Middle notes: floral notes
  • Base notes:


Bottles:







Glass Packer, 1947:
"SOPHISTICATION IN GLASS. A beautiful new packaging design is that accomplished by Joe Piatt for Dorothy Gray's new line, Savoir Faire. A soft shade of pink with gold accents and a black mask motif..."

 The New Yorker, 1951:
"GIVE HER DOROTHY GRAY'S SAVOIR FAIRE FRAGRANCE A champagne kind of scent, worldly and sparkling. Perfume,$ 5.00$, 20.0$0. (3.50 purse size.)."

Harper's Bazaar, 1952:
"For the smoothing of a skin etched like a dry point with fine lines, the laboratory of Dorothy Gray has evolved a super- lubricant — Savoir Faire Night Cream which is the core of their most luxurious treatment of massage and stimulation. $10."

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. 
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