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Parfumerie Fouillat

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Parfumerie Fouillat of Grenoble, France, launched a range of perfumes in the 1920s. Most likely a short-lived company. In addition to perfumes, the company also produced lotions, powders, creams and soaps.




The perfumes of Fouillat:
  • 1920 Bouquet d'Orient
  • 1924 Grenoble
  • 1920 Pecheresse/Pecherose
  • 1922 Son Peche
  • 1927 Les Fleurs



Lumière by Rochas c1984

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Lumière by Rochas c1984. Created by Nicolas Mamounas



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a  fresh-floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, violet, green leaves, acacia, bergamot, hawthorn, honeysuckle, coriander and orange blossom
  • Middle notes: hyacinth, tuberose, orris root, gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose, narcissus and magnolia
  • Base notes: ambergris, vetiver, tonka bean, cedarwood, sandalwood and musk

Bottles:

Presented in a beautiful blue opaque bottle with a mauve diamond-cut stopper designed by Carré Noir.

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued in 1999

Reformulated by Michel Almairac in 2000. Being relatively similar to its forerunner, however this version is lighter and fruitier.
  • Top notes: lily-of-the-valley, honeysuckle, orange blossom, bergamot and plum
  • Middle notes: Damask rose, apricot
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, cedar, vanilla, tonka bean and vetiver





Desert Flower by Shulton c1947

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Desert Flower by Shulton: launched in 1947. Desert Flower was also sold under the name Leigh.

Salvador Dali created three paintings commissioned by the Shulton Company to market the perfume Desert Flower in 1947.




So what does it smell like? Desert Flower is classified as a light oriental fragrance for women with a woody-mossy-leafy chypre base. It was advertised as “ modern, mysterious, magnetic.” This toilet water has a soft, lovely scent with sweet, woody and floral notes.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
  • Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang
  • Base notes: cedar, patchouli, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris, oakmoss, benzoin and orris
Items available in the Desert Flower range of toiletries included: toilet water, perfume, hand & body lotion, cologne, talcum powder, bath salt crystals, dusting powder, bubble bath, body sachet and soap, natural spray mist.

Desert Flower was discontinued around 1977.


Diorama by Christian Dior c1949

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Diorama by Christian Dior: created by Edmond Roudnitska and launched in 1948 in France, in USA by 1949.





    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet fruity chypre fragrance for women with a slight oriental essence.
    • Top notes: bergamot, peach, melon, plum, aldehydes
    • Middle notes: jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, rose, lily-of-the-valley, violet, caraway, , meridian fennel, strawberry, pepper, raspberry, galbanum
    • Base notes: patchouli, labdanum, vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oak moss, Virginia cedar, castoreum, civet, leather


    Diorama was available in the following:

    • parfum
    • eau de toilette
    • eau de cologne
    • dusting powder


    Mademoiselle, 1949:
    "From France. Dior's sulky, sweet Diorama. $5 per dram."

    Cue, 1951:
    "Dior suggests a tender, blossoming fragrance. Miss Dior, for the young in spirit. For the worldly wise, Diorama, a vivid, opulent perfume. $5.00 for a dram."

    Home Journal, 1953:
    "Dior's deep-toned scent of elegance, Diorama."

    Vogue, 1968:
    "Adventurous and slightly Oriental Diorama."

    Christian Dior, 1970:
    "A second scent, Diorama, was launched in 1949, when the first licence for Christian Dior stockings was agreed with Julius Kayser."


    Bottles:



    In the early 1950s, Diorama parfum was presented in Baccarat cut crystal urn/amphora shaped flacons, in blue, ruby and white cut to clear crystal.

    Another rare presentation is the Baccarat crystal obelisk, from the 1950s.





    The New Yorker, 1953:
    "Dior, a practical fellow, has made some plain bottles for Diorama and Miss Dior. Sold with funnels, these are meant to refill the fancy bottles that were presumably, last year's Christmas presents. $9 a quarter ounce and $24 an ounce."

    Home Journal, 1953:
    "Dior makes refills for his deluxe urns in both Miss Dior and Diorama. Refill for the $30 bottle. $20."

    Homes and Gardens, 1954:
    "An elegant and delightful gift is Christian Dior's " Duo," of a 1/2 oz. amphore of Miss Dior perfume, and another of Diorama, in a grey-and-gold case."

     Cue, 1966:
    "Christian Dior has just introduced a complete aerosol perfume collection. In addition to the purse-size atomizer (at $5), you can now color-select your favorite in three sizes — Miss Dior in white package, Diorama in grey, Diorissimo in pink, Diorling in yellow."


    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Diorama was discontinued by 1990. But it was re-orchestrated with modern ingredients and relaunched in 2010 as part of Dior’s collection Les Creations de Monsieur Dior.

    The new version's composition:
    • Top notes: bergamot, ylang ylang, orange blossom
    • Heart notes: Indian jasmine, Turkish rose, peach, caraway, Egyptian cumin,  plum
    • Base notes: patchouli, Virginia cedar
    Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorama is available as:
    • 50ml eau de toilette
    • 100ml eau de toilette

    L'Elu by Marquay c1946

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    L'Elu by Marquay: launched in 1946.





    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: bergamot and galbanum
    • Middle notes: Bulgarian rose and Grasse jasmine
    • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, labdanum, Virginia cedar

    Bottles:


    Like other Marquay perfumes, L'Elu was housed inside of a squat octagonal clear glass bottle molded with indented curves, topped by a diamond cut stopper, sometimes gold plated. These little bottles were presented inside small drawstring pouches of velvet or brocade.



    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1964.



    Vivara by Emilio Pucci c1965

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    Vivara by Emilio Pucci: launched in 1965, in USA by 1967. Created by Michel Hy. It is named after a deserted crescent shaped island opposite Ischia in the Bay of Naples.




    Fragrance Composition:


     So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic green chypre fragrance for women, evocative of the Mediterranean sun and summer in Emilio Pucci's distinctive style.
    • Top notes: bergamot, galbanum, spices, green notes, peach and aldehydes
    • Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, lily, rose and ylang-ylang
    • Base notes: cypress, patchouli, sandalwood, leather, oakmoss, vetiver, amber, benzoin and olibanum


    Vivara was originally available in the following products:
    • Parfum
    • Super Perfume (launched in 1969)
    • Stra-Vivara (launched in 1970)
    • Light Perfume
    • Eau de Toilette
    • Spray Cologne
    • Dusting Powder/Bath Powder
    • Bath Oil
    • Soap

    The New Yorker, 1967:
    "Emilio Pucci's Vivara (in lots of shops) is all sunshine and flowers—a bit sweet but not too much so. ... has been around for some time; I speak of it now because it has acquired the usual side effects——-purse spray, bath powder, bath oil."

    Mademoiselle, 1969:
    "Something very fresh and clean and up-tempo about Emilio Pucci's Vivara— something like the lure of the open road. A good breezy perfume to wear in an open convertible."

    Bottles:

    Presented in a clear glass bottle with a flared white gold rimmed cap, the base of the bottle is molded with ‘HP’ the trademark of Pochet et du Courval. The seven-color box containing Emilio Pucci's Vivara perfume is made from a specially embossed, pearlized board that simulates the soft, shiny texture of silk. The package is designed to duplicate a Pucci fabric creation. Designer: Karl Fink.



    Fate of the Fragrance:

    This has been discontinued since the mid 1980s and can be quite hard to find.

    In 2007, Vivara was reformulated by Francois Demachy, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto and Marie-Aude Couture-Bluche and relaunched in a new flacon.

    The newer reissue smells nothing like the original. It is classified as a chypre floral fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: amaretto, galbanum and Calabrian bergamot
    • Middle notes: daffodil flowers, orange blossom, Sambac jasmine and narcissus
    • Base notes: patchouli, Florentine iris and vetiver


    Three limited edition bottles:

    • 2008 Vivara Silver Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition silver colored bottle.
    • 2009 Vivara Black Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition  black colored bottle.
    • 2010 Vivara Turquoise Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition turquoise blue colored bottle.



    Vivara Variazioni Collection of Eau de Toilettes, comprises up of four different variations of the 2007 fragrance Vivara, through the elements of water, sand and sun.




    2009 - Vivara Variazioni Sole 149, created by Michel Girard. It is classified as an aromatic fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: tomato leaf, galbanum
    • Middle notes: Sambac jasmine
    • Base notes: patchouli and vetiver

    2009 - Vivara Variazioni Sabbia 167, created by Annick Menardo, is classified as a citrus fragrance for women, inspired by the sun-scorched sands of the Mediterranean.
    • Top notes: mandarin, lemon
    • Middle notes: iris 
    • Base notes: sandalwood

    2009 - Vivara Variazioni Acqua 330, created by Christophe Raynaud and Louise Turner, is classified as an aquatic floral fragrance for women, inspired by the blue waters of the Mediterranean.

    • Top notes: violet leaf and sea accords
    • Middle notes: jasmine and frangipani
    • Base notes: musk



    2011 - Vivara Variazioni Verdi 072, is inspired by the cool freshness of aquatic herbs.
    • Top notes: bergamot and mint
    • Middle notes: Turkish rose and neroli
    • Base notes: cedar and tonka bean



    Mary Grayo

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    Mary Grayo was a furrier out of Monte Carlo; in addition to furs, she also sold her own brand of perfumes for furs during the 1940's. Mary Grayo's perfumes were designed to be worn when wearing a fur coat, to help prevent the natural gamey scent of fur coats from being obvious. Many of the perfumes that were produced were formulated to be worn with specific types of fur, such as Renard Argente (silver fox), Renard Bleu (blue fox), Breitschwanz (Persian lamb), Castor (beaver), Panthére (panther), Ragondin (nutria), and Vison (mink).


    c1946



    L'Officiel de la Mode, 1939:
    "For fur, it is important to create a quality of scent which neither burns nor discolors the pile. Mary Grayo has quite particularly endeav- oured to do this and, after thorough and delicate research, special scents for fur hâve been given birth. The multiplicity of experiments conducted by mary grayo have enabled her to adapt a particular scent to each fur, which gives the most perfect of results : clinging, subtlety, distinction.The delicate point was to avoid harmful reactions between the chemical products employed for tanning the pelts and the extracts composing the scents. With extraordinary subtlety, mary grayo has made light of the difficulty, and to her we now owe an innovation which every smart woman has been waiting for."

    The perfumes of Mary Grayo:
    • 1939 Renard Argente
    • 1939 Renard Bleu
    • 1939 Breitschwanz(box designed as a fur coat wrapped around the bottle)
    • 1939 Castor
    • 1939 Panthére
    • 1939 Vison
    • 1939 Ragondin

    What are Aldehydic Fragrances?

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    Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

    Aldehydic: 

    or modern perfumes are those with significant notes of the aldehydes which are synthetic compounds, with clean, diffusive, sparkling notes and a family of chemicals.


    Aldehydes are usually associated with florals and feminine perfumes. The first aldehydic perfume was created in 1925 by Ernest Beaux for Chanel No. 5, quite possibly the world‘s most famous aldehydic perfume.


    There are subdivisions of classifications in this family and they are: floral aldehydic and floral aldehydic chypre.







    Perfumes which are classified as Aldehydic are:

    • Chanel No. 5 by Chanel
    • L’Interdit by Givenchy
    • Arpege by Lanvin
    • Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent
    • White Linen by Estee Lauder
    • Coco by Chanel
    • Cerruti Femme 1881 by Nino Cerruti
    • Je Reviens by Worth
    • Chamade by Guerlain
    • Tuxedo by Ralph Lauren
    • Madame Rochas by Rochas
    • Ombre Rose by Jean Charles Brosseau
    • Ruffles by Oscar de la Renta
    • Albert Nipon by Albert Nipon
    • Vega by Guerlain
    • Infini by Caron
    Aldehydic Woody Floral:
    • Caleche by Hermes
    • Missoni by Missoni/Max Factor
    • Gauloise by Molyneux
    • Halston by Halston
    • Halston Night by Halston
    • Nocturnes by Caron
    • Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso

    Un Jour by Charles Jourdan c1982

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    Un Jour by Charles Jourdan: launched in 1982.








    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral aldehyde fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: lemon, Sicilian mandarin, pineapple, blackcurrant buds and peach
    • Middle notes: jasmine, white royal lily, ylang-ylang, magnolia, and hyacinth 
    • Base notes: Virginia cedar wood, West Indian rosewood, oak moss, musk and sandalwood

    Un Jour was available in the following products:
    • 30 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
    • 75 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
    • 100 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
    • 2.5 ml/2.6 ml Eau de Toilette Splash mini
    • 50 ml Eau de Toilette Splash
    • 100 ml Eau de Toilette Splash
    • 200 ml Eau de Toilette Splash

    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown.




    Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur, Inc.

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    Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur, Inc. is an obscure Parisian perfume company.

     Jean d'Hennery, Inc., was d.b.a. Nemours, New York, N.Y.

    Their most common perfumes are Kim and Mouky.





    The perfumes of Jean D'Hennery of Paris France:
    • 1946 Chantaco
    • 1946 Dogaresse
    • 1946 Guittre-Amour
    • 1946 Kim
    • 1946 Languer
    • 1946 Magnificat
    • 1946 Mouky
    • 1946 Reconciliation
    • 1946 Reine de Saba
    • 1946 Retour
    • 1946 Reverence
    • 1946 Tendre Espoir
    • 1946 Toutounne
    • 1946 Triomphe D'Amour
    • 1953 Jasmy
    • 1953 Provoquant
    • Plaisir de France

    Ma Griffe by Carven c1946

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    Ma Griffe by Carven: launched in 1946. Created by Jean Carles. The name means "My Signature" as well as "My Claw" in French. Undoubtedly, a pun on the name, as Madame Carven clawed her way to top the design world and left her mark with her revolutionary Ma Griffe perfume.




    Like Chanel, she chose to house her perfume inside of a simplistic cube shaped clear glass bottle, but it was housed inside of a coffret cloaked in her lucky colors, white and green, which helped it to be distinguished among the other bottles on the department store shelves. This older bottle was used during the 1940s-1970s.

    Another bottle that was used was a variation of the cube shaped bottle topped with a gilt finish spiral cap designed by Jacques Bocquet, when viewed from the top, the spiral forms a stylized C for Carven. This unique bottle was used from the 1970s-1980s.

    Other bottles were used to house Ma Griffe over the years and included the standard Carven bottle for eau de colognes, a tall, ribbed glass bottle with a plastic screw cap, or the tall, square shaped bottle, these were used in the 1960s-1980s. Later bottles used in the 1980s-1990s were simple kidney shaped spray flacons with gilded plastic caps or the curvaceous flat amphora spray flacon with the gilt metal cap.


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a Chypre Floral fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, gardenia, galbanum, asafoetida, clary sage and lemon
    • Middle notes: iris, orange blossom, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
    • Base notes: labdanum, tonka bean, sandalwood, cinnamon, musk, benzoin, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax.


    Ma Griffe was reformulated in 2000, the newest reformulations are shown in the photos below.


    In 2013, Ma Griffe was reformulated and relaunched again.

    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: bergamot, lemon and gardenia
    • Middle notes: jasmine, sandalwood, rose and ylang-ylang
    • Base notes: vetiver, musk, tonka bean and styrax




    Hermes Scented Origami Paper Horses

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    Last year Hermes launched a range of home fragrances inspired by Celine Ellena's reveries (daydreams), that included some very unusual additions: scented origami paper horses. The discreet little horses come in sets of four and would be wonderful for those who travel and cannot bring a candle or room spray.


    Click the links below to find out more or to purchase:
    Champ Libre - Scented origami horse
    Des Pas sur la Neige - Scented origami horse
    Fenêtre Ouverte - Scented origami horse
    Temps de Pluie - Scented origami horse
    À Cheval - Scented origami horse



    K de Krizia c1981

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    K de Krizia by Krizia: launched in 1981, created by Maurice Roucel.




    K de Krizia was available in the following forms:
    • Parfum
    • Eau de Parfum
    • Eau de Toilette
    • Perfumed Body Creme

    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. I think it smells a lot like vintage Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, very nice, deep and rich oriental.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, peach, hyacinth, neroli and bergamot
    • Middle notes: carnation, orange blossom, orchid, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose and narcissus
    • Base notes: leather, sandalwood, amber, musk, civet, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver and styrax

    The New York Times Magazine, 1981:
    "Among those recently introduced, for example, and their approximate price per ounce, are Missoni, $150; K de Krizia, $125 (for three-quarters of an ounce); Magie Noire, $120; Metamorphose by Jean La- Porte, $150."

    Country Life, 1982:
    "For women who like the special clothes we have been talking about, K de Krizia is a delicious, rich and sensuous scent. There are three strengths, for different times of day and night — eau de toilette, eau de parfum and parfum — and the frosted bottle, designed by Pierre Dinand."


    Il Bacio by Princess Marcella Borghèse c1993

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    Il Bacio by Princess Marcella Borghèse: launched in 1993. The name means "The Kiss" in Italian. Created by Givaudan Roure.





    Fragrance Composition:



    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh fruity-floral fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: freesia, lily of the valley, bergamot, mandarin and lemon
    • Middle notes: melon, peach, rose, cassis, honeysuckle, plum, osmanthus, passion fruit, pear, cyclamen, jasmine, cattleya orchid and orris
    • Base notes: amber, sandalwood, Virginia cedar, musk and violet leaves


    Bottle:


    The bottle was designed by Marc Rosen.

    From Marc Rosen & Associates:
    "Creative Challenge: How do you capture the spirit of a ‘kiss’? Metaphorically, of course. In our research we came across an ancient piece of Etruscan jewelry — a love-knot — which became the symbol (stopper) of this uniquely Italian fragrance. All design elements link back to Italy, and it’s rich design heritage. Special attention was paid to glass distribution to create a truly premium experience."



    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Unfortunately, Il Bacio has suffered from reformulation and many of the ingredients present in the original are now lost to time and no longer appear in the new formula.
    • Top notes: freesia, honeysuckle, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose
    • Middle notes: melon, peach, plum and passionfruit
    • Base notes: musk, amber, sandalwood and Virginia cedar

    Royal de Rauch by Madeleine de Rauch c1973

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    Royal de Rauch by Madeleine de Rauch: launched in 1973.




    So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli
    • Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang ylang, iris, rose
    • Base notes: amber, civet, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, vetiver
    Discontinued sometime in the early 1990s.


    Princesse d'Albret by Jean d'Albret c1964

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    Princesse d'Albret by Jean d'Albret: launched in 1964.

    Fragrance Composition:


    Composed up of over 100 ingredients and took ten years to perfect.

    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women with a chypre base.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, coconut, bergamot, pear, wild strawberry and wisteria
    • Middle notes: Mougins jasmine, lily, heliotrope, Bulgarian rose, Florentine iris
    • Base notes: orris, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, vanilla, labdanum, spices, musk, Tyrolean oakmoss


    Bottles:


    Fate of the Fragrance:


    It was discontinued in 1977 with the closing of the company.



    Tresor de la Mer by Lalique for Saks Fifth Avenue c1939

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    In 1939, Saks Fifth Avenue celebrated the 50th anniversary of the opening of their department store, which had opened in 1889. To herald this achievement, in 1936, they commissioned a special perfume bottle to be created by master craftsman, Rene Lalique.


    Lalique answered the call with a fabulous perfume flacon in the shape of a pearl, hidden inside an giant sea shell box, called the Tresor de la Mer, or Treasure of the Sea.


    The opalescent glass object was only made in a limited edition of just 100 examples. The original retail price of this flacon was $50. The clear and frosted opalescent crystal shell was made in hues of oceanic blues and fiery oranges which seemed to glow from within. The giant shell rested on molded aquatic plants and parting waves. Inside, is little spherical perfume flacon rested. The top and bottom of the shell are connected by metal hinges. The shell bottle was presented inside a red velvet presentation box that was lined in gold silk and blue velvet.


    The gorgeous perfume presentation was to be shown at the Rene Lalique exhibit at the Saks Fifth Avenue store. Today fewer than three known complete presentations still exist, they are considered rare and holy grails of Lalique perfume bottle collecting.


    The most recent example sold for a whopping $180,000 at David Rago Auctions in 2007 thru an eBay live auction.


    The presentation is documented in the Marcilhac book on page 949, and in the book Lalique Perfume Bottles by Glenn & Mary Lou Utt.


    In 1938, Stage magazine mentioned the flacon:
    "Tresor de la Mer, an exclusive Saks V perfume, at $50 an ounce, seems a good idea. It comes in a round pearl- shaped Lalique phial, inside a large Lalique silver-hinged oyster, hurried in a plush container. Such goings-on!"



    It is worth noting that an equally rarer bottle was also made for tresor de la Mer, this time it is an oval bottle made up of opalescent glass and molded with a scallop shell pattern. It is topped with a round, disk shaped, opalescent glass stopper molded with gadrooning. The bottle stands 6 1/2". and is fitted with a metallic label towards the bottom of the bottle. This bottle was not made by Lalique but may have been made by Sabino.



    Vintage Boudoirs of the Stars - Part 5

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    Laura La Plante, c1920s-1930s, Lalique cactus bottle shown in center of vanity.


    Lizbeth Scott, c1940s, Czech crystal bottle shown in center


    Loretta Young, c1920s, large hand mirror


    Madge Bellamy, c1920s, various perfume atomizers on her vanity.

    Madge Evans, c1920s-1930s, tall perfume bottle on the right

    Patricia Neal, c1940s


    Paulette Goddard, c1940s-1950s

    Judith Muller

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    Judith Muller was born in Hungary to a wealthy family, the dream of the "spoiled girl" ended very soon with the arrival of Hitler and then Stalin. With her family, she moved to Israel where they were forced to earn their living. Judith was a one-time sergeant in the Israeli army.

    "Perfume of the Holy Land", Judith's idea for her beauty industry came "while on a night watch at an army base in divided Jerusalem with the contours of David's Tower looming on the horizon, all of a sudden, present and past blended together."

    The idea for the cologne and perfume is as simple as it has been successful: she combined the ancient flowers and plants known to the women of the Bible with modern technology. As she romantically put it... "the scents of today from the fragrances of the past."

    She went to Paris to study scents, and worked with chemists to study which plants mentioned in the Bible still survived today. In 1962, she formulated a prototype of the Bat-Sheba perfume, based on Biblical ingredients. Her signature fragrance Bat Sheba, named after the young woman who seduced King David, was formulated with modern ingredients by IFF perfumers Ernest Shifftan and Sophia Grojsman and officially launched in 1964.

    By 1965, she returned to Israel and opened an institute and perfume house Judith Muller Ltd., in Haïfa that specialized in Bible-inspired beauty methods and local ingredients.


    Judith Muller sold her scents in pretty, smoky-glass flacons shaped to look like ancient bottles. The bottles, each handpainted so no two are exactly alike, were available in the usual measures, but you can also find gift sets of two, four, six, and eight miniature bottles. Some of the flacons were housed in small leather pouches which could double as storage for jewelry.

    After the death of her husband, Gati, she closed her beauty institute at Haifa and moved to Tel Aviv, where she began to create bespoke fragrances for individual clients such as jewelry stores, hotels and individual countries.  For Thailand, she created the Oriental. For Fiji, she created Fidjit of Suva. Then came the Flame of the Sheraton, in a lovely flame-shaped bottle. For the H. Stern jewelry concern, she created Esprit de Parfum whose bottle contains an actual citrine gemstone inside.

    Judith Muller passed away in 2012 from terminal cancer, you can read more about her here.

    The Perfumes of Judith Muller:
    • 1962 Bat-Sheba
    • 1968 Bat-Sheba Exotic Oriental 
    • 1968 Bat-Sheba Woody Modern
    • 1970 Shalom
    • 1974 King David (for men)
    • 1975 Judith
    • 1976 JM (for teenagers)
    • 1992 H. Stern
    • 1996 Jerusalem 3,000
    • 2005 Hungarian Rhapsody No 5
    • Israel
    • Rose Ambree
    • Sharon
    • Flame (limited edition created for the Sheraton Hotel in Tel Aviv)


    The Fragrances: Please note that I may not have all of the notes listed for each fragrance, I would need some samples and your input to help update the list.


    Bat-Sheba: created in 1962 by IFF perfumer Ernest Shifftan and Sophia Grojsman. It is classified as a fruity floral chypre perfume for women.

    • Top notes: aldehydes, cardamom, bergamot, fruit notes, green notes
    • Heart notes: desert cactus, honey, jasmine, rose, orris, ylang-ylang, carnation
    • Base notes: musk, sandalwood, balsam, patchouli, vetiver, castoreum, vanilla, amber, leather, oakmoss


    Bat-Sheba Woody Modern: created in 1964. It is classified as a bitter green woody chypre perfume for women.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, cardamom, bergamot, galbanum, rosewood, hyacinth
    • Middle notes: spices, desert cactus, honey, jasmine, rose, orris, ylang-ylang, carnation, cocoa
    • Base notes: sandalwood, balsam, patchouli, vetiver, castoreum, vanilla, amber, leather, oakmoss 

    Bat-Sheba Exotic Oriental: created in 1968 by IFF perfumer Ernest Shifftan and Sophia Grojsman. It is classified as a spicy oriental fougere perfume for women.

    • Top notes: aldehydes, cardamom, bergamot, fruit notes, rosewood, lavender
    • Heart notes: spices, jasmine, rose, orris, ylang-ylang, carnation
    • Base notes: resins, smoky notes, sandalwood, benzoin, balsam, patchouli, vetiver, castoreum, vanilla, amber, leather, oakmoss


    Sharon: is classified as a floral (jasmine-rose) aldehyde perfume with soft chypre-fruity-ambery notes, close to Arpège and Madame Rochas. The main idea is a chypre-mossy-fruity accord.

    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, fruit notes, neroli, honeysuckle
    • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, iris, lily of the valley
    • Base notes: benzoin, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, labdanum, vanilla, musk, amber

    Judith: created in 1975, it is classified as a fresh floral, powdery chypre perfume for women.

    • Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, bergamot
    • Middle notes: spices, jasmine, carnation, orchid, hyacinth, orris
    • Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, labdanum, vanilla, musk, amber

    Shalom: created in 1970, is classified as a dry chypre perfume for women.

    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
    • Middle notes: floral notes
    • Base notes: benzoin, leather, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, labdanum, vanilla, musk, amber

    King David: created as a fragrance for men, but loved by women as well.

    • Top notes: citrus notes
    • Middle notes: spices
    • Base notes: benzoin, leather, resins, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, amber

    JM: created in 1974, is classified as light, fresh floral perfume that was meant to be worn by teenage girls.

    • Top notes: citrus notes
    • Middle notes: spices, floral notes
    • Base notes: amber, vanilla, sandalwood


    H. Stern Esprit de Parfum: a unisex aldehydic green floral fragrance, based on a combination of aromatic plants and essences mentioned in the Bible. It was launched in 1992 for the luxury jewelry store and was given as a gift to special customers only. The bottle contains an actual gemstone inside. The perfume bottle, is painted in a color like the stone inside of it.

    • Top notes: aldehydes and green notes
    • Middle notes: rose and other floral notes 
    • Base notes: musk



    Jerusalem 3,000: a unisex fragrance created by Judith Muller in cooperation with Ein Gedi Cosmetics, to celebrate the 3000th anniversary of Jerusalem and for the Israel Coins and Medal Corporation, and was presented in a limited edition coffret with certificate and 24kt gold medal of honor of the city.

    • Top notes:
    • Middle notes: spices and floral notes
    • Base notes: myrrh, amber, vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, frankincense


    Eszterháza No. 1: a fragrance for women, launched in 2004 as a tribute to Princess Margaret Esterházy and was created in cooperation with the Hungarian cosmetic company Natural Doctor.


    The Hungarian Rhapsody No. 5 perfume, inspired by Franz Liszt, was created by Pierre Bourdon in 2005 as a national fragrance of Hungary and is presented in a porcelain bottle by Endre Szász and decorated with graphics by John Mata. The perfume is made up of the flowers found in Hungary and won the Hungarian Quality Product Award.
    • Top notes: green pepper
    • Middle notes: lily, lilac, rose and jasmine
    • Base notes: myrrh and ambergris

    Flame: a unisex fragrance, a limited edition of only 700 copies, created for the Sheraton Hotel in Tel Aviv)



    Standard Perfumery Works

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    Standard Perfumery Works of 18 Mercer Street, New York, established in 1853, was a perfumery company active in the late 1800s. Their specialty was Ammoniated Bay Rum.





    Our Society Journal, 1885:
    "The Standard Perfumery Works, Nos 15 and 17 Mercer Street, New York City, of which Messrs Bloomingdale & Rich are proprietors, are engaged in the preparation of fine toilet articles, and are putting upon the market a line of refined and choice goods. They received the only medal awarded for a toilet preparation by the American Institute in 1885, and are making a specialty of Ammoniated Bay Rum which will be found a most delightful addition to the toilet. It is not made by any mysterious process, nor does it contain any hidden or injurious ingredients. It is thoroughly cleansing, imparting new life and vigor to the hair, leaving it soft and glossy. It entirely eradicates dandruff, and by its refreshing effect on the scalp, immediately relieves sick or nervous headache. Unlike any other shampoo, there is no danger of taking cold after using Ammoniated Bay Rum. It is also most refreshing after the bath. We are acquainted with parties who have dealt with Messrs Bloomingdale & Rich, and can commend them to the public as honorable gentlemen engaged in conducting an honorable business." 


    The Pharmaceutical Era, Volume 22, 1899:
    "Wm. A. Peters, manufacturer of perfumery, at No 540 Broadway Manhattan borough, has filed a petition in bankruptcy with liabilities $8,104 and assets $7,168. Mr Peters has been in business since 189,1 and used the style of the Standard Perfumery Works. In May last, he offered to compromise with his creditors at 50 cents on the dollar, half cash and half in notes, payable on Jan 1 1900, which it was afterwards stated was accepted by the creditors."

    The fragrances of The Standard Perfumery Works:

    • 1880 Ammoniated Bay Rum
    • 1880 True West India Bay Rum
    • 1880 Turkish Otter of Roses
    • 1890 American Lilac
    • 1893 Columbia Bells
    • 1893 Jockey Club
    • 1893 Eau de Violette
    • 1893 American Queen
    • 1893 Sweetheart
    • 1893 White Lilac
    • 1893 Violet
    • 1893 World’s Fair Perfume



    Ad below from an 1893 Marshall Field's catalog.






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