Essence Fidelis by Parfumerie Bon Marche Mon A. Boucicaut Paris Antique Perfume Bottle with contents! I believe that it may be a Baccarat flacon.
![]()
Read more about A.Boucicaut here.
Read more about A.Boucicaut here.
↧
ON EBAY!!! Antique c1900 Essence Fidelis by Parfumerie Bon Marche Perfume Bottle
↧
ON EBAY!! Vintage Czech Jeweled Filigree Perfume Bottles
↧
↧
ON EBAY!! Vintage c1920s Un Reve Sur le Nil by Ramses Egyptian Baccarat Flacon
Vintage c1920s Un Reve Sur le Nil by Ramses Egyptian Baccarat Flacon. Sumptuous clear crystal Baccarat bottle satin gray patina, representing a beautiful sphinx's head, with its clear and satin Pharaonic cap. Creation J. VIARD.
![]()
Click here to see the auction![]()
↧
McRae & Keeler Whoopee Compacts & Vanities c1931 Advertisement
Gorgeous high color Art Deco advertisement for the McRae & Keeler "Whoopee" Compact with adjustable swinging handle. The other advertisement shows various other compacts, some with lipsticks attached. These ads were both from a 1931 N. Shure Co. catalog.
images: ebay seller gdawg
↧
New Deals This Week!
Now, get up to 25% off with Shu Uemura's Friends and Family Sale with orders over $100 - now through May 20th.
Get 20% off orders over $50 and 25% orders over $100 - code SHUFF (valid thru 5/20)↧
↧
Gi Gi by May Fair c1970s
Gigi ( Gi Gi) (now sold by Kesma): launched in the 1970s.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: lemon balm, aldehydes, galbanum, tangerine, bergamot, mint, lime zest, and fruity notes
- Middle notes: tea, honey, tarragon, cloves, rose, narcissus, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, and jasmine
- Base notes: resins, oakmoss, vetiver, vanilla, labdanum, cedar, sandalwood, musk, amber and patchouli
↧
Koto by Shiseido c1967
Koto by Shiseido: launched in 1967 for the Japanese market. The Japanese word "Koto," refers to the name of the traditional Japanese harp which emits melancholy sounds.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, citruses, herbs and spices
- Middle notes: narcissus, gardenia, orris root, jasmine, lily of the valley, jonquil and rose
- Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, leather, amber, vetiver and castoreum
↧
Amun by 4711 c1981
Amun by Mulhens/4711/Payot: launched in 1981.
![]()
![]()
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
Amun was available in the following products:
![]()
Another 7.5 ml bottle was a clear glass cube topped with a square glass stopper. The bottle had a paper label with the name Amun and a stylized pyramid. The box was decorated with gilded hieroglyphs forming a frame around the name Amun.
![]()
The 120ml Eau de Toilette bottles are decorated by a scene taken from the back panel of King Tutankhamun's gilded Egyptian throne. The scene depicts Queen Ankhesenamun offering bunches of papyrus and lotus blossoms to the king and the same design is repeated on the box. The 20ml Eau de Toilette bottle is adorned with an image of the boy king seated on a small cushion holding the flail and wearing the blue war crown. The 30ml Eau de Toilette bottle is decorated with an image of King Tut's infamous gilded funerary mask. The 60ml Eau de Toilette bottle is decorated with a gilded scene of Ankhesenamun massaging perfume unguent onto the king's shoulder.
![]()
The 20ml Eau de Toilette bottle was housed inside of a simple black spray case emblazoned with a gilded stylized sphinx motif. The 40ml Eau de Toilette flacon is not as ornate as the others, it is a clear glass bottle with a black plastic spray, and has a simple paper label on the front with the perfume's name, rather than a scene.
The deodorant spray canister features a scene of a seated Tut smelling a lotus blossom and his queen sitting at his feet with her arm affectionately around his leg.
The perfumed soap box shows a scene of Ankhesenamun tying a collar around Tut's neck.
Unfortunately, the fragrance was discontinued shortly after it was released and can be quite hard to find.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot oil, spices, orange blossom
- Heart notes: honey, carnation, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, cinnamon
- Base notes: frankincense, musk, amber, labdanum, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin resin, vanilla
Amun was available in the following products:
- 7.5 ml Parfum Splash
- 15 ml Parfum Splash
- 20 ml Parfum Splash
- 10ml Parfum Spray
- 10 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
- 20 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
- 30 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
- 40 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
- 95 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
- 60 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
- 120 ml Eau de Toilette Splash
- 100 ml Shower Gel
- 75 ml Parfum Deodorant Spray
- 125 ml Deodorant Spray
- 3.5 oz Perfumed Soap
Bottle:
The beautiful bottles and exquisite packaging continue the ancient Egyptian theme based on King Tutankhamen's tomb and golden funerary treasures. The 7.5ml and the 20ml parfum bottles are topped by a gilded winged sphinx. The box depicts a scene showing the god Re-Herakhty offering an ankh up to Tut's nose, in other words, he is receiving the gift of life, while the god Ptah stands behind him. The 15ml parfum bottle is topped by a gilded winged scarab that was part of King Tut's hieroglyphic name, and the box features a scene of the king pouring perfume from a small bottle into Ankhesenamun's hand as she is smelling it.
The 120ml Eau de Toilette bottles are decorated by a scene taken from the back panel of King Tutankhamun's gilded Egyptian throne. The scene depicts Queen Ankhesenamun offering bunches of papyrus and lotus blossoms to the king and the same design is repeated on the box. The 20ml Eau de Toilette bottle is adorned with an image of the boy king seated on a small cushion holding the flail and wearing the blue war crown. The 30ml Eau de Toilette bottle is decorated with an image of King Tut's infamous gilded funerary mask. The 60ml Eau de Toilette bottle is decorated with a gilded scene of Ankhesenamun massaging perfume unguent onto the king's shoulder.
The 20ml Eau de Toilette bottle was housed inside of a simple black spray case emblazoned with a gilded stylized sphinx motif. The 40ml Eau de Toilette flacon is not as ornate as the others, it is a clear glass bottle with a black plastic spray, and has a simple paper label on the front with the perfume's name, rather than a scene.
The deodorant spray canister features a scene of a seated Tut smelling a lotus blossom and his queen sitting at his feet with her arm affectionately around his leg.
The perfumed soap box shows a scene of Ankhesenamun tying a collar around Tut's neck.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Unfortunately, the fragrance was discontinued shortly after it was released and can be quite hard to find.
↧
Belle de Rauch by Madeleine de Rauch c1966
Belle de Rauch by Madeleine de Rauch: launched in 1966.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classical floral-green woody chypre fragrance.
Discontinued sometime in the early 1990s.
![]()
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classical floral-green woody chypre fragrance.
- Top notes: aldehydes, galbanum, bergamot, rosemary
- Middle notes: narcissus, violet, lily of the valley, tuberose, tea rose
- Base notes: civet, patchouli, oakmoss, amber, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, labdanum, tonka bean, musk
Discontinued sometime in the early 1990s.
↧
↧
Suite 16 by Pierre Cardin c1959
Suite 16/Suite Seize by Pierre Cardin: launched in 1959.
Suite 16 was available in both parfum and cologne (eau de Cardin).
![]()
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women featuring spring flowers over a spicy fern note.
![]()
Discontinued, date unknown.
Suite 16 was available in both parfum and cologne (eau de Cardin).
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women featuring spring flowers over a spicy fern note.
- Top notes: aldehydes, honeysuckle, bergamot
- Middle notes: turmeric, lavender, rose, fern, honey, spices
- Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, labdanum, oakmoss, sweet woodruff
Bottles:
L'Art et la mode, Volume 79, 1959:"Perfume Suite 16, which exists in two interpretations with some differences, one for men and one for women; It will be presented with the same style as Suite 16, which we know as the beautiful triangular bottle adorned with green ribbons, in the two-tone box of white and Ottoman tobacco colored embroidery."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.
↧
Memoire Cherie by Elizabeth Arden c1957
Memoire Cherie by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1957.
It was available in the following:
Memoire Cherie was such a success that by 1960, it was awarded the grand Coupe D'Or award by the Comite du Bon Gout Francais.
May 1964:
The perfume was discontinued sometime in the early to mid 1980s. I could only find advertisements for the fragrance up until 1980.
Irma Shorell, Inc. is the current owner of United States Patent and Trademark Office Registration No. 2,427,336 for the Memoire Cherie trademark for perfume and other fragrance products, but not the formula.
Perfumery comments, "A memorable deception indeed, layers and layers of beauty..each with a different face. Memoire Cherie perfume begins with a classically constructed 50's woody-floral accord, tightly wrapped together; dense and waiting for air. After a moment of hesitation, Memoire Cherie escapes and descends into a rich and wonderful oriental accord; creamy, nutty and sensual beyond belief. It is as if the perfume walked out of the room and came back in a new outfit. This wonderful warm amber musk tone has a gentle floralcy which dances around the base and carries on for hours and hours. At the end, the oriental base settles down below the floralcy and Memoire Cherie walks quietly into the night. " -- Jeffrey Dame
It was available in the following:
- Parfum
- Dusting Powder
- Perfume Mist
- Flower Mist
- Eau de ParfumBath Oil
- Bath Essence
- Bath Soap
- Body Lotion (moisture bath)
- Fluffy Milk Bath
- Perfumed Candle
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral powdery aldehydic fragrance for women with refreshing woodsy notes.- Top notes: Sicilian bergamot, Mexican neroli, fresh apricot
- Middle notes: Romanian chamomile, jasmine, tarragon, honey, rose, violet
- Base notes: opoponax, Moroccan oakmoss, amber, musk, and Haitian vetiver
Memoire Cherie was such a success that by 1960, it was awarded the grand Coupe D'Or award by the Comite du Bon Gout Francais.
"Elizabeth Arden has been awarded the treasured Coupe d’Or of France for “Outstanding achievement in the development of Memoire Cherie, the finest fragrance ever created and acclaimed by France.”
- Memoire Cherie Perfume Mist introduced in 1957.
- Memoire Cherie Flower Mist launched in December 1963.
- The Weekender Kit was created around 1964.
“Elizabeth Arden presents for Christmas Memoire Cherie Flower Mist. A new flowering just in time for Christmas! This delicate rendering of the world’s most prized perfume lends an aura of enchantment to one’s lighter moments. A memorable present! In a beautiful bottle frosted in bas relief. $4.50”
May 1964:
"Elizabeth Arden makes this spring memorable with the new Memoire Cherie Duet ... The world’s most prized fragrance* can now be yours in an enchanting combination, a beautiful golden aerosol atomizer of Memoire Cherie Perfume Mist together with Memoire Cherie Dusting Powder, Remember all your friends all the days of springtime with the Memoire Cherie Duet. And don’t forget yourself! For springtime only $6.00."
Fate of the Fragrance:
The perfume was discontinued sometime in the early to mid 1980s. I could only find advertisements for the fragrance up until 1980.Irma Shorell, Inc. is the current owner of United States Patent and Trademark Office Registration No. 2,427,336 for the Memoire Cherie trademark for perfume and other fragrance products, but not the formula.
Perfumery comments, "A memorable deception indeed, layers and layers of beauty..each with a different face. Memoire Cherie perfume begins with a classically constructed 50's woody-floral accord, tightly wrapped together; dense and waiting for air. After a moment of hesitation, Memoire Cherie escapes and descends into a rich and wonderful oriental accord; creamy, nutty and sensual beyond belief. It is as if the perfume walked out of the room and came back in a new outfit. This wonderful warm amber musk tone has a gentle floralcy which dances around the base and carries on for hours and hours. At the end, the oriental base settles down below the floralcy and Memoire Cherie walks quietly into the night. " -- Jeffrey Dame
↧
What are Oriental Fragrances?
Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords. In this guide I will briefly discuss the various themes.
Oriental:
Orientals are warm, spicy, intense, heady and are the longest lasting type of women’s perfumes.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Amber orientals have the notes of vanilla and “amber” Ambergris (the synthetic is known as “amber” in the perfumery world) is a substance excreted by the sperm whale after eating cuttlefish and found in lumps of varying size floating in tropical seas or washed ashore. Ambergris must be weathered for at least three years before use. Although ambergris was used for centuries as a perfume, no one knew the exact source. True ambergris has not been used in perfumery in over thirty years. Today, perfumers use synthetic chemicals like Ambreine to recreate the scent of ambergris, but other sources such as plant based ingredients ambrette seed or labdanum can impart an ambergris note to many fragrances.
![]()
Spicy Orientals are rich with clove, nutmeg, incense and cinnamon.
![]()
Floral Orientals, also known as Florientals combine two favorite fragrance families, a subgroup of florientals in the sheer florientals which are lighter in scent than other oriental type perfumes.
![]()
The subdivisions of classifications in this family are:
![]()
Perfumes which are classified as Oriental are:
Oriental:
Orientals are warm, spicy, intense, heady and are the longest lasting type of women’s perfumes.
Amber orientals have the notes of vanilla and “amber” Ambergris (the synthetic is known as “amber” in the perfumery world) is a substance excreted by the sperm whale after eating cuttlefish and found in lumps of varying size floating in tropical seas or washed ashore. Ambergris must be weathered for at least three years before use. Although ambergris was used for centuries as a perfume, no one knew the exact source. True ambergris has not been used in perfumery in over thirty years. Today, perfumers use synthetic chemicals like Ambreine to recreate the scent of ambergris, but other sources such as plant based ingredients ambrette seed or labdanum can impart an ambergris note to many fragrances.
Spicy Orientals are rich with clove, nutmeg, incense and cinnamon.
Floral Orientals, also known as Florientals combine two favorite fragrance families, a subgroup of florientals in the sheer florientals which are lighter in scent than other oriental type perfumes.
The subdivisions of classifications in this family are:
- floral oriental
- floral woody amber
- floral spicy amber
- soft amber
- citrus amber
- floral semi-amber
Perfumes which are classified as Oriental are:
- Shocking by Schiaparelli
- Bijan by Bijan
- Passion by Elizabeth Taylor
- JOOP! by JOOP
- Habanita by Molinard
- Samsara by Guerlain
- L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain
- Soir de Paris by Bourjois
- Poison by Christian Dior
- Vol de Nuit by Guerlain
- Byzance by Rochas
- Magie Noire by Lancome
- Red Door by Elizabeth Arden
- Tabu by Dana
- Chantilly by Houbigant
- Shalimar by Guerlain
- Youth Dew by Estee Lauder
- Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
- Dioressence by Christian Dior
- Oscar by Oscar de la Renta
- Nicole Miller byNicole Miller
- Allure by Chanel
- Galanos by Galanos
- Lou Lou by Cacharel
- Must de Cartier
- Obsession by Calvin Klein
- Cinnabar by Estee Lauder
↧
Faking Perfume Bottles to Increase Their Value
The issue of adding "after market" accents to rather plain perfume bottles to increase their value is not new to the world of collecting. Over the years collectors have dealt with unscrupulous dealers who added various labels to boring bottles. Many of these labels do not fit the shape of the bottle making them a little more obvious than others, but nonetheless it confuses collectors and dealers alike. Adding a loose label to a perfume bottle may sound harmless to those who practice the fraud in order to make a quick buck, but it hurts the world of perfume collecting as it can result in mistaken identity and false value.
Dealers will often take up a genuine loose perfume label, which is frequently found online, and add it to a rather plain looking antique bottle to make it into something worthy of collecting. Some people may be fooled by a pretty fancy looking label and might purchase it thinking it is a genuine old bottle that is worth money. While they may look beautiful, those of us who strive to accurately chronicle perfume companies' bottles and perfume history, it can muddle up our records and cause a lot of confusion. A good way to figure out a fake bottle is to check the base for any markings. A nice looking French label might be applied to a plain American made bottle. We would expect a fancy French perfume would be in a French bottle, not vice versa.
Some people also fake signatures on bottles. The best example is the taking of relatively new crystal perfume bottles made in the Czech Republic and the addition of a fake Rene Lalique signature with either a diamond point engraver or through acid etching. Some of us savvy bloggers will out these fakes on our websites when we find them, but some do slip through the cracks and end up as someone's costly buying mistake. It is important to recognize true Rene Lalique bottle designs against common faked bottles.
Another thorn in the side of collecting is the creation of so-called Victorian chatelaine scent bottles. A certain shameless company in India has been taking quite new perfume bottles such as Jean Paul Gaultier female torso bottles and adding handmade brass caps fitted with chains to create a fanciful "antique" or "art deco" scent bottle that they claim is "rare". I have tried to out these sellers over the years as I see more and more ridiculous bottles being produced and sold for high sums of money.
A newer problem arising our of India is the scary production of bottles with fake engraving. These are plain, inexpensive old bottles with after market engraving and applied patination. The seller (ebay seller antique.artnouveau) offers many genuine antique perfume bottles, but his auctions are peppered with these faked bottles too. At first glance, they may fool many people, as they are beautiful and look to be well made, but I, as well as some other seasoned collectors and dealers have noticed that these designs never existed in any previous documentation or auction record.
Some examples were a few bottles with ancient Egyptian themes such as the Osiris by Gabilla, Cassiris by JN Giraud Fils and Muguet by Coty.
![]()
An example of the faked patination is the bottle for Gabilla's La Vierge Folle, the bottle is genuine as is the label, but the seller has added a reddish patina to increase the value. Funny how some of their other bottles have this same shade of red patina also applied to them. This bottle sold for $319 USD and probably would have only sold for around $75-$100 if it did not have the patina.
![]()
I just looked at their auctions again and they have this SAME Gabilla bottle back up for sale, using the same photos...so it seems that the buyer had returned the bottle that sold and the sellers are reselling it, this time for a buy it now of $750 USD. This is ridiculous! Gabilla c1920 La Vierge Folle Cameo Etched Glass Perfume Bottle Rare Old Vintage![]()
Some of their other bottles with fakery are the following:
Bouquet Nouveau c1930 Houbigant Crystal Nancy Rare Vintage Perfume Bottle FlaconDealers will often take up a genuine loose perfume label, which is frequently found online, and add it to a rather plain looking antique bottle to make it into something worthy of collecting. Some people may be fooled by a pretty fancy looking label and might purchase it thinking it is a genuine old bottle that is worth money. While they may look beautiful, those of us who strive to accurately chronicle perfume companies' bottles and perfume history, it can muddle up our records and cause a lot of confusion. A good way to figure out a fake bottle is to check the base for any markings. A nice looking French label might be applied to a plain American made bottle. We would expect a fancy French perfume would be in a French bottle, not vice versa.
Some people also fake signatures on bottles. The best example is the taking of relatively new crystal perfume bottles made in the Czech Republic and the addition of a fake Rene Lalique signature with either a diamond point engraver or through acid etching. Some of us savvy bloggers will out these fakes on our websites when we find them, but some do slip through the cracks and end up as someone's costly buying mistake. It is important to recognize true Rene Lalique bottle designs against common faked bottles.
Another thorn in the side of collecting is the creation of so-called Victorian chatelaine scent bottles. A certain shameless company in India has been taking quite new perfume bottles such as Jean Paul Gaultier female torso bottles and adding handmade brass caps fitted with chains to create a fanciful "antique" or "art deco" scent bottle that they claim is "rare". I have tried to out these sellers over the years as I see more and more ridiculous bottles being produced and sold for high sums of money.
A newer problem arising our of India is the scary production of bottles with fake engraving. These are plain, inexpensive old bottles with after market engraving and applied patination. The seller (ebay seller antique.artnouveau) offers many genuine antique perfume bottles, but his auctions are peppered with these faked bottles too. At first glance, they may fool many people, as they are beautiful and look to be well made, but I, as well as some other seasoned collectors and dealers have noticed that these designs never existed in any previous documentation or auction record.
Some examples were a few bottles with ancient Egyptian themes such as the Osiris by Gabilla, Cassiris by JN Giraud Fils and Muguet by Coty.
An example of the faked patination is the bottle for Gabilla's La Vierge Folle, the bottle is genuine as is the label, but the seller has added a reddish patina to increase the value. Funny how some of their other bottles have this same shade of red patina also applied to them. This bottle sold for $319 USD and probably would have only sold for around $75-$100 if it did not have the patina.
I just looked at their auctions again and they have this SAME Gabilla bottle back up for sale, using the same photos...so it seems that the buyer had returned the bottle that sold and the sellers are reselling it, this time for a buy it now of $750 USD. This is ridiculous! Gabilla c1920 La Vierge Folle Cameo Etched Glass Perfume Bottle Rare Old Vintage
Some of their other bottles with fakery are the following:
This old Houbigant bottle has not only fake engraving but a fake glass cameo applied to the front.
The tactics used by this seller include much of the same engraved font and same color patina.
↧
↧
Futur by Robert Piguet c1960
Futur by Robert Piguet: launched in 1960. Created by Aurelien Guichard.
Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1968.
The perfume was reformulated by Aurelien Guichard and relaunched in 2009. It was first available only at Harrods in London.
So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as a floral green woody fragrance for women.
![]()
L'Art et la mode - Issues 2846-2848, 1968:
"Robert Piguet Futur, last and magnificent creation of perfumes Piguet prelude holidays and multiplies the scents of summer. It detects the unusual smell of tamarisk associated with orange, jasmine, basil. Scent of happy idleness."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral green woody fragrance for women. The spring like perfume is described as having a blend of fresh citruses, romantic flowers and opulent woody nuances.
- Top notes: bergamot, orange, neroli, green accord, basil
- Middle notes: violet, jasmine, ylang ylang, tamarisk
- Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, cedar, oakmoss and sandalwood
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1968.
The perfume was reformulated by Aurelien Guichard and relaunched in 2009. It was first available only at Harrods in London.
So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as a floral green woody fragrance for women.
- Top notes: bergamot, neroli, green accord
- Middle notes: violet, jasmine, ylang ylang
- Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, cedar
Futur is housed in a characteristic black flacon as 50 and 100 ml EDP and 30 ml parfum.
↧
ON EBAY!! LES BOURGEONS by YBRY
Clear crystal "wine glass" shaped flacon used for Les Bourgeons (The Buds) launched in 1928. Unsure of manufacturer.
![]()
Click here to see the auction![]()
↧
Chenier Perfumes, Inc.
Viviny Perfumers Inc. of West Haven, Connecticut, doing business as "André Chenier", the name of the famous late French poet, had launched a line of toilet preparations including perfumes and cosmetics in the 1930s. Some of the products were: face powder, talcum powders, face creams, bath salts, lipsticks and rouges.
The company also supplied the B. Altman department stores with specially commissioned perfumes.
A line of single flower perfumes simply name "Andre Chenier Fleurs" was launched in 1931, these might have been the perfumes for B. Altman.
Carroll Cut Rate Perfumer, a New York concern, also sold the Andre Chenier creations.
Viviny Perfumers also did business under the various brand names of: Valencia, Maurice (Philip Maurice), Jean La Salle and Betty-Faye, all produced cosmetics. The trade-mark is the name of Jean La Salle, was named after a historic French priest and founder of the Brothers of the Christian Schools, who was born at Reims, France. Betty Faye Co., doing business as Dr. Higgins Laboratories, New Haven, Conn. Filed Feb. 7, 1929. "JEAN LA SALLE" Registered July 9, 1929. Betty Faye Co., New Haven, Conn. Renewed July 9, 1949, to The Viviny-Associated Company, West Haven, Conn., a corporation of Connecticut.
Andre Chenier was also affiliated to Marques de Elorza, Parfumerie Brecher, and Parfums de Paul and associated with Boue Sœurs. You will see the same perfume names used by several of these companies.
The perfumes of André Chenier:
The perfumes created exclusively for B. Altman stores:
The company also supplied the B. Altman department stores with specially commissioned perfumes.
A line of single flower perfumes simply name "Andre Chenier Fleurs" was launched in 1931, these might have been the perfumes for B. Altman.
Carroll Cut Rate Perfumer, a New York concern, also sold the Andre Chenier creations.
Viviny Perfumers also did business under the various brand names of: Valencia, Maurice (Philip Maurice), Jean La Salle and Betty-Faye, all produced cosmetics. The trade-mark is the name of Jean La Salle, was named after a historic French priest and founder of the Brothers of the Christian Schools, who was born at Reims, France. Betty Faye Co., doing business as Dr. Higgins Laboratories, New Haven, Conn. Filed Feb. 7, 1929. "JEAN LA SALLE" Registered July 9, 1929. Betty Faye Co., New Haven, Conn. Renewed July 9, 1949, to The Viviny-Associated Company, West Haven, Conn., a corporation of Connecticut.
Andre Chenier was also affiliated to Marques de Elorza, Parfumerie Brecher, and Parfums de Paul and associated with Boue Sœurs. You will see the same perfume names used by several of these companies.
The perfumes of André Chenier:
- 1925 Myrys
- 1925 Ondés d’Amour
- 1928 Jipsee Fleurs
- 1929 Honeysuckle Blossom
- 1929 Valencia
- 1929 Bouquet de Souvenirs
- 1930 Chenier 16
- 1930 Marché Nuptiale
- 1930 Corsage du Temps
- 1932 Printemps de Paris (skincare line)
- 1934 Incarnate
- 1934 Night in Orient
The perfumes created exclusively for B. Altman stores:
- 1930 Apple Blossom
- 1931 Lysystra
- 1931 Spring Madness
- 1931 Chenier
- 1931 Jasmin
- 1931 Gardenia
- 1931 Lavender
- 1931 Chypre
- 1931 Rose
- 1931 Sweet Pea
- 1931 Lilac
- 1947 Andalusia
Viviny Perfumers
- 1930 Valencia d'Amour
- 1931 Paul de Bois
- 1932 J.V.G.
- 1934 Viennese Nights
Jean La Salle:
- Carioca
- Hayloft
↧
Les Parfums de Vega
Les Parfums de Vega, established by J Piot at 18 rue de Genas, Lyons in 1910, still active in the late 1920s.
Here are the only known fragrances that I could find from Vega:
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Here are the only known fragrances that I could find from Vega:
- 1927 Coeur Ardent
- 1927 Flambeau d'Amour
↧
↧
LH Herpin
LH Herpin, a perfume bottle manufacturer from 6, rue Dulac, Paris.
c1927
c1927
c1927
c1927
c1929
↧
Ellipse by Jacques Fath c1972
Ellipse by Jacques Fath: launched in 1972.
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a dry, but warm chypre fragrance for women with dominant leather note.
In 1974, Ellipse was licensed to a Syrian concern Kachian Takieddine and these perfumes were packaged in navy blue boxes. These boxes have the following statement "Fabrique en S.A.R. sous licence des PARFUMS JACQUES FATH PARIS par Kachlan Takieddine." It is said that this version is lighter in character and more suited for day wear.
The French version was still being produced and was packaged in the white boxes. Based on various online reviewers, there is a noticeable difference between the two and the white boxed items were longer lasting and superior to the Syrian produced versions.
Discontinued by 1984 due to some disagreements between partners.
![]()
Unfortunately, some fake Ellipse fragrances popped up in the 1990s, these were from Poland and most are the 25ml Eau de Parfum sprays packaged in a white box.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a dry, but warm chypre fragrance for women with dominant leather note.
- Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, bergamot, tangerine peel and galbanum
- Middle notes: fresh herbs, vetiver, nutmeg, lavender, jasmine and rose
- Base notes: labdanum, pine, cedar, oakmoss, wormwood, sandalwood, leather, patchouli, amber, tonka bean and musk
Fate of the Fragrance:
In 1974, Ellipse was licensed to a Syrian concern Kachian Takieddine and these perfumes were packaged in navy blue boxes. These boxes have the following statement "Fabrique en S.A.R. sous licence des PARFUMS JACQUES FATH PARIS par Kachlan Takieddine." It is said that this version is lighter in character and more suited for day wear.
The French version was still being produced and was packaged in the white boxes. Based on various online reviewers, there is a noticeable difference between the two and the white boxed items were longer lasting and superior to the Syrian produced versions.
Discontinued by 1984 due to some disagreements between partners.
Buyer Beware!
Unfortunately, some fake Ellipse fragrances popped up in the 1990s, these were from Poland and most are the 25ml Eau de Parfum sprays packaged in a white box.
↧
Zut by Schiaparelli c1948
Zut by Elsa Schiaparelli: launched in 1948 and possibly created by a Jean Carles and Roure.
The name "Zut" in French means "damn". "Vert Zut" was the name of a jungle green color and "Zut Mauve" was the name of a pink mauve color she used in her fabrics as well as the presentation box for the Zut perfume.
![]()
![]()
![]()
So what does it smell like? It was described as bittersweet, warm floral oriental fragrance for women.
Basenotes.com member, danielremy has remarked that"Zut was half Russian leather half Shalimar. The opening was a potent leathery note of birch tar, as for example in the Lubin's Cuir de Russie, or in Jet (Corday). The drydown is a very soft ambery base a la Shalimar. Zut was not as successful as Shocking but it's still very interesting to smell and to wear."
Zut was presented in a beautiful frosted glass bottle depicting a woman's body from the waist down. The woman is supposed to be Mistinguette wearing a pair of fancy striped and dotted panties, trimmed in fringe, unfortunately, her star spangled skirt has dropped to the floor around her ankles in a fluff. She exclaims "Zut!" in response.
The name "Zut" in French means "damn". "Vert Zut" was the name of a jungle green color and "Zut Mauve" was the name of a pink mauve color she used in her fabrics as well as the presentation box for the Zut perfume.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was described as bittersweet, warm floral oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: bergamot and blackcurrant
- Middle notes: calendula, cyclamen, linden blossom, ylang ylang, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
- Base notes: tonka, incense, leather, vanilla, amber, sandalwood, orris, musk
Bottles:
Zut was presented in a beautiful frosted glass bottle depicting a woman's body from the waist down. The woman is supposed to be Mistinguette wearing a pair of fancy striped and dotted panties, trimmed in fringe, unfortunately, her star spangled skirt has dropped to the floor around her ankles in a fluff. She exclaims "Zut!" in response.Four sizes were available in the "legs" bottle.
![]()
- 5.5' tall (2 oz) (originally retailed for $48 in 1949)
- 5" tall (1 oz) (originally retailed for $30 in 1949)
- 3 5/8"tall (1/2 oz) (originally retailed for $18 in 1949)
- 2 1/4" (1/8 oz)
c1949 Schiaparelli Zut perfume bottle and stopper in clear glass with gold detail, sealed, ribbon, box with rare silk garter; includes short-lived re-edition, sealed in box. 5 5/8 in. Photos from Perfume Bottles Auction.
![]()
![]()
Discontinued around 1955 or so.
It was reformulated by Nathalie Feisthauer from Givaudan-Roure and relaunched in 1998.
So what does it smell like?
Hearst's 1948:
Cue, 1948:
Modern Packaging, 1949:
Mademoiselle, 1949:
The New Yorker, 1949:
Modern Packaging, 1950:
Cue, 1951:
Harper's Bazaar, 1952:
Package Design, 1953:
Fodor's Women's Guide to Europe, 1954:
"As a bottle for her new perfume, Schiaparelli introduces, and high time, too, the underpinnings of her famous shocking torso. A pair of tantalizing legs in spangled trunks holds two ounces of an exotic tropical bouquet. It is called "Zut."The New Yorker, 1948:
"Schiaparelli's Zut, which comes in a bottle that is shaped like a circus girl's legs, is just what it sounds like; it doesn't even pretend to be subtle."
Cue, 1948:
"Mme. Schiaparelli is another one of the old timers who has come up with a new perfume. Hers is called "Zut" which, as you know, is untranslatable, but epitomizes Gallic insouciance. Its two-ounce bottle (at a modest $40) is the other half of the now famous Schiaparelli dressmaker torso bottle."
Modern Packaging, 1949:
"Most unusual is the container just announced for Schiaparelli's new perfume called "Zut," a 2-oz. bottle forming the other half of the now famous Schiaparelli dressmaker torso bottle. Publicity releases describe the form of the bottle as "an uninhibited pair of legs in spangled trunks standing in a fluff of a skirt with a satin sash encircling the "waist" or neck of the flacon. The bottle is packaged in a jungle green and mauve box, gold lettered and circled with an elastic ribbon garter. A miniature version of this bottle, for the toe of someone's stocking, is $3.60, and Zut cologne, in torso bottles (no legs), costs $6 and $10.80."
Mademoiselle, 1949:
"Schiaparelli's new Zut. in a naughty leg-art bottle. $15. three-eighth ounce. Saks Fifth Avenue."
The New Yorker, 1949:
"And when it comes to dropping subtlety completely, there is Schiaparelli's Zut, in the familiar and rude bottle shaped like the lower half of a girl in tights. This perfume comes in three sizes ($18, $30 and $48) packed in a green and orchid box."
Modern Packaging, 1950:
"Schiaparelli's "leg art" French bottle for Zut perfume is now housed in green suede, satin-lined drawstring bag."
Cue, 1951:
"Schiaparelli's latest creation new two-ounce bottle of Zut Eau Cologne, paired with a miniature warm, intoxicating Zut perfume. A lightful gift in purple and green $5.75."
Harper's Bazaar, 1952:
"To wear with it, another exclamation point — Schiaparelli's "Zut" perfume."
Package Design, 1953:
"Here, for example, the Schiaparelli perfume flacons, the ' Shocking ' tailor's dummy and the ' Zut '" leg art," show the influence of surrealism.— In the advertisements, the flacon is the central theme."
Fodor's Women's Guide to Europe, 1954:
"Schiaparelli, 21 Place Vendome. "Succes Fou"— indeed a mad success; "Salut"— for young girls; "Snuff '—tweedy, masculine; "Sleeping"— wistful, delicate; "Shocking"— elegant, refined; "Zut"— shocking; "Roi Soleil"— luxurious."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued around 1955 or so.
It was reformulated by Nathalie Feisthauer from Givaudan-Roure and relaunched in 1998.
So what does it smell like?
- Top notes: bergamot, black currant, cyclamen
- Middle notes: marigold, ylang-ylang, linden flower, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
- Base notes: iris roots, tonka, incense, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood and musk.
↧