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Gigolo by Germaine Monteil c1951

November 11, 2016, 10:44 am
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Gigolo by Germaine Monteil: launched in 1951.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet floral fougere fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: lavender, bergamot, geranium
  • Middle notes: rose and jasmine
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, vanilla, patchouli


Cue: The Weekly Magazine of New York Life, 1951:
"Germaine Monteil's new Gigolo, a captivating, French perfume with a rose and jasmine base."

Bottles:


Gigolo's parfum was presented in a tapered crystal bottle fitted with a crystal stopper. The parfum was available in two sizes and retailed for $30 for the 3/4 oz and $50 for the 1 1/2 oz in 1951. The bottle was nestled in a red lined gold presentation box. The bottle may have been made by Verreries Brosse, who made other bottles for Monteil.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.



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Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan c1974

November 18, 2016, 1:53 am
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Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan: launched in 1974.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It starts out with an aldehydic top, followed by a sweet and spicy floral heart, resting on a warm, balsamic base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, raspberry, bergamot, rosewood
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, honey, rose, orris, carnation
  • Base notes: sandalwood, cinnamon, benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, oakmoss, musk


Star-News, 1974:
"Jovan introduces Frankincense and Myrrh. Now you can make your own history. With one of the most beautiful fragrances of all time. A union of two of the most precious, aromatic oils in the history of the world. Frankincense and Myrrh. Try this sensuous fragrance and stimulated age-old passions. In him. Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan. In perfume and cologne spray mist. Anoint thyself. And may thy cup runneth over."

Cue Magazine, 1974:
"The most classic scents of all, at least as far as Christmas is concerned, are frankincense and myrrh, and Jovan offers them together. One-third ounce of the potent, musky perfume is $6, as is a two-ounce cologne spray."
McCalls, 1974:
"If you want to feel like the Queen of Sheba, Jovan's Frankincense and Myrrh should do the trick If you're playing it cool, Max Factor's Gemmesse is a more subtle but no less heady blend of delicate florals with sensuous chypre and patchouli."

New Woman, 1974:
"Frankincense & Myrrh Oil in 1/3 oz Perfume, $6.00 and 2 oz Cologne Spray Mist. $6.00 Jovan, Inc."
Mademoiselle, 1975:
"Evyan's Most Precious Cologne . . . Jovan's Frankincense and Myrrh . . . Coty's Sweet Earth Rare Flower Fragrance in Mimosa . . Eau de Guerlain . . . Prince Matchabelli's Cachet Cologne Spray ... or Revlon's Charlie Concentrate Perfume." 

Good Housekeeping, 1977:
"Mink & Pearls, Musk Oil, VSP, Frankincense and Myrrh, Madame Jovan and Sex Appeal, all by Jovan, come in tiny bottles (1/3-ounce perfumes) you can carry in the smallest purse."

Vogue, 1978:
"Frankincense and myrrh come already mixed— via Jovan's mysterious Frankincense & Myrrh Perfume."

K.T. Maclay's Total beauty catalog, 1978:
"FRANKINCENSE & MYRRH (pronounced FRANK-INCENSE and MURR) by Jovan, $5-$10. The Wise Men brought frankincense and myrrh (two of the most precious aromatic oils in the history of the world) as gifts for the baby Jesus."

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.



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Messire by Jean d'Albret c1961

November 19, 2016, 2:13 am
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Messire by Jean d'Albret: launched in 1961. “Messire” is an obsolete French word meaning “sire,” “master," or “squire.”





Town & Country, Volume 119, 1966:
"Count D'Ornano - Mayor of Deauville, owner of fast horses, collector, connoisseur, man of multiple interests — heads Jean D'Albert, source of Messire. Named after Henry IV, known in his youth as Messire de Navarre. And besides this there are, naturally in favor of men, Messire Cologne, After Shave, Soap, etc. But particularly important - Messire's Lacto-Derme, a creamy liquid formula vigourous opposed to the drying elements of high winds, storm and parching sun."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a citrus aromatic fougere fragrance for men.
  • Top notes: verbena, lemon, bergamot
  • Middle notes: coriander, lavender
  • Base notes: amber, oakmoss, rosewood, benzoin, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued in 1977 with the closing of the independent Jean d'Albret company. According to various vintage newspaper advertisements the Jean d'Albret name was co-branded alongside Orlane, who had acquired the Jean d'Albret brand and other associated fragrances such as Ecusson and Casaque in the 1960s.

In 1980 it was being "introduced" as "Messire by Orlane". However, this too is discontinued and can be hard to find.



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Safari by Ralph Lauren c1989

November 20, 2016, 1:52 am
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Safari by Ralph Lauren, first launched in 1989 in association with Cosmair, Inc., was inspired by the exotic African safari.



Perfumer Dominique Ropion created this fabulous cult favorite. The perfume won a FiFi award for the most successful fragrance as well as a second award for its TV advertisements when it was launched. Safari was also the official Fragrance of the Kentucky Derby Festival in 1991.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. Sporty with strong herbal notes. Reminds me of a vintage herbal shampoo.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, tagetes, galbanum, mandarin, jonquil, hyacinth, orange, daffodil and black currant buds
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, rose, broom, orange blossom, narcissus, carnation, orchid, honey and Italian jasmine
  • Base notes: oakmoss, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, styrax, musk, amber, vanilla and Tonka bean.


Bottle:

The gorgeous flacon was designed by Ben Kotyuk and was based on an antique Edwardian perfume flacon of cut crystal with a chased sterling silver and tortoiseshell inlaid cap. To complete the whole packaging "had to be beautiful" idea was what Ralph Lauren called "vintage-ness." The fragrances were housed inside boxes that featured crocodile skin texture inspired by antique traveling steamer trunks.



The 1 oz and 1/2 oz solid cut crystal bottles used for the parfum (extrait) have sterling silver caps. The cap flips back and the bottle is corked with a glass stopper. The one ounce parfum bottle stands 4" tall and is 3 1/8" wide. This bottle retailed for $300 when it was launched. The half ounce bottle of parfum stands 3 3/8" tall and is 2 5/8" wide. It retailed for $200. These bottles were housed in luxurious presentation boxes covered with crocodile patterned paper and the front of the box opens to reveal an interior lined in ivory silk damask, which was personally selected by Ralph Lauren himself.
The 1/4 oz parfum bottle stands 3 3/8" - but being circular in shape and without a flat base, it stands on it's cap. This one does not have a sterling silver cap, but is fitted with a silvertone atomizer and cap.  

Modified versions of the deluxe crystal bottles were created in pressed glass to house spray mechanisms for the cologne, eau de parfum and the smaller (mini) bottles for the parfum concentrations.



In 1989, the 0.68 oz cologne spray retailed for $35, the 2.5 oz cologne spray was $45, the 4.2 oz cologne splash was $60 and the 4.2 oz cologne spray was $65.

In 1989, the Safari fragrance line started out with just the Parfum (extrait) and the Cologne, it was joined by the Climate Response bath & body line starting in 1990. The Eau de Parfum was introduced in 1992 as well as the cosmetic line. Judging by the lack of newspaper advertisements, it seems the Cologne was discontinued around 1995. The Climate Response line of bath and body products was discontinued by 1999.




Safari was originally available in the following products:
  • 1/8 oz Parfum (Mini)
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Refill
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Purse Spray 
  • 0.5 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
Cologne:
  • 0.68 oz Refillable Cologne Spray (teardrop bottle)
  • 2.5 oz Cologne Spray
  • 4.2 oz Cologne Spray
  • 4.2 oz Cologne Splash
Eau de Parfum (introduced in 1992):
  • 0.14 oz Eau de Parfum (Mini)
  • 1/2 oz Eau de Parfum Spray 
  • 0.68 oz Eau de Parfum Refillable Spray (teardrop bottle)
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 4.2 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 4.2 oz Eau de Parfum Splash
  • 4.1 oz Moisturizing Perfume Mist (non-alcoholic 1992)

Climate Response Bath & Body products were added in 1990:
  • Climate Response Body Creme
  • Climate Response Body Powder
  • Climate Response Body Lotion
  • Climate Response Foaming Body Bath Gel
  • Climate Response Gentle Body Shampoo 
  • Climate Response Smoothing Body Scrub
  • Climate Response Body Soap
  • Climate Response Talc
  • Foaming Bath Pearls (Limited Edition)


Ralph Lauren also accented his Safari Collection with a line of cosmetics in 1992.
  • Climate Response Mascara
  • Climate Response Lip SPF 1 (hint of sheer color in blush, bronze, or bare)
  • Climate Response Lip Liner 
  • Climate Response Sun Sheer Bronzing Powder
  • Climate Response Sun Sheer Brush (for Bronzer)

Glamour, 1992:
"The newest, from Ralph Lauren's Safari Climate Response Collection, works as anything from summer blusher to eye shadow to a substitute for loose powder. Shop for a shade that will "disappear" into your skin."



Fate of the Fragrance:


Safari had been discontinued for many years (I believe by 2002), but has been recently reformulated and relaunched by Ralph Lauren as just Eau de Parfum concentration. If you are looking for vintages - your best bet is to look for the Colognes, the Parfums. and the Climate Response bath & body products/cosmetics (though these may not be good to use after so long).


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Bridal Bouquet by Dana c1961

November 22, 2016, 1:28 pm
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Bridal Bouquet by Dana: launched in 1961. Some of my sources state that it was first launched in 1935, but I cannot find any period advertisements to confirm this.


Bridal Bouquet was available in the following forms:
  • 1/2 oz Perfume 
  • 1.5 oz Perfume Mist
  • 3 oz Spray Cologne
  • Dusting Powder
  • Perfumed Sachettes
  • 4 oz Perfumed Powder Cakes


Fragrance Composition:

So what did it smell like? It was classified as a classic white floral woody fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: aldehydes
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, amber

Cue, 1971:
"Dana's way to win and hold him is a new Bridal Bouquet, delightfully packaged, in umpteen forms including two dozen perfumed sachettes."

Soap, Cosmetics, Chemical Specialties, Volume 48, 1972:
 "Bridal Bouquet", the first fragrance introduced by Dana Perfumes Corp., New York, for the women's market in 10 years is being offered in an aerosol package equipped with a mechanical breakup actuator and valve supplied by the aerosol division, Risdon Mfg Co, Naugatuck, NY."

The Deseret News - May 23, 1973:
"Dana's luxurious floral fragrance, Bridal Bouquet, created to let a woman feel like a bride all her life. A delightful scent every woman will want to wear before her special wedding day as well as long after. And bridal bouquet comes in so many enchanting selections.  Cologne Spray $5, Perfume Mist $7.50, Cologne $6, Dusting Powder $4, Perfume Sachettes $3.50."


Vogue - Volume 163, 1974:
"Your scent: "Bridal Bouquet" by Dana, the fragrance designed to make every day as special as your wedding day. Perfume 1/2 oz., $15.00 Perfume mist, $7.50 Eau de cologne, $6.00 Spray cologne, $5.00 Perfumed powder cake, $4.00."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Bridal Bouquet was discontinued, probably sometime in the 1980s.


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Parfums Degas

November 30, 2016, 1:40 am
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Parfums Degas of Paris, France was established by Guy Degas in 1947. By 1965, they had a branch located at 1325 Fifth Avenue, New York City.




The perfumes of Degas:
  • 1947 Estampe (a heady, floral scent)
  • 1947 Danseuse Etoile (a light, dry fragrance)
  • 1965 Yum Yum (vetiver & spicy florals)


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Tendre Poison by Christian Dior c1994

December 4, 2016, 9:08 pm
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Tendre Poison was created by Edouard Flechier in 1994. The bottle design is the work of Veronique Monod.


Fragrance Composition:

  • Top notes:  Brazilian rosewood,  asafoetida, mandarin orange, galbanum and tangerine
  • Middle notes: rose, freesia, tuberose, honey, and orange blossom
  • Base notes: heliotrope, sandalwood, musk, and vanilla

Mirabella, 1993:
"Next March, Christian Dior, makers of the berry-rich Poison, will be coming out with Tendre Poison. While the company claims the scent is entirely new, insiders are referring to it as "Diet Poison" - a subtle, lighter, green floral variation on the original."


Mirabella, 1993:
"Dior has come out with Tendre Poison, a floral eau de toilette that's less intense than the original."

Lear's, 1994:
"CHRISTIAN DIOR LIGHTENS UP Among noses in the know, the verdict is in: This is the decade of delicate floral blends, made to match the era's new emphasis on subtle beauty. Case in point: Christian Dior's new Tendre Poison, , a green-tinted fresh floral with galbanum, mandarin blossom, freesia, sandalwood, and vanilla. This scent follows Poison, a spicy, fruity fragrance launched by Dior in 1986


Fate of the Fragrance:


Tendre Poison was reformulated around 2005-2006 and is housed in a new bottle.


Unfortunately, this fragrance is currently discontinued.



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Divine by D'Orsay c1947

December 11, 2016, 1:55 am
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Divine by D'Orsay: launched in 1947.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was classified as an oriental fragrance for women with a dominant heavy, sweet orange blossom note resting on woody-mossy-leafy base punctuated by spices. The notes of spices and flowers are infused with fruity notes.
  • Top notes: citrus notes, fruity notes
  • Middle notes: lavender, jasmine, spices, orange blossom
  • Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, ambergris, benzoin, vanilla


The New Yorker, 1948:
"Then, of course, there's D'Orsay's brand-new Divine, a very sweet floral, at $22.20 an ounce."

Cue, 1949:
"D'Orsay's new perfume, Divine, makes its American debut this season after having established itself as a favorite in Paris."


Bottles:


Presented in a twisted crystal bottle designed by Jacques Guerin.







Harpers' Bazaar, 1949:
"This heady perfume now comes in a tiny spiral flacon, a copy of the full-size flask, with its own satin bag. Pursette, by D'Orsay." 


Woman's Home Companion, 1954:
"D'Orsay's Divine perfume flacon in gold metal cloth bag. $3."

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.


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MW de Messire c1972

December 26, 2016, 11:36 am
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MW de Messire: launched in 1972 in association with Jean d'Albret/Orlane. In USA in 1973.  It was created for the young career orientated women of action who are tiring of the more flowery perfumes.

The MW stands for "Modern Woman", however, a blurb in a newspaper article mentioned that "MW" stands for "whatever you want it to be" and that the fragrance was unisex.





Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? I have no official notes other than what is listed below.
  • Top notes: citrus
  • Middle notes: spices
  • Base notes: woods

Described as "fresh, light, citrus, woody, spice, It suggests wild, woody forests and hills with lots of fresh misty smells in the air. It's fresh without being overpowering. A brief mention in a newspaper article stated that it "is a fragrance light enough to be worn by men and women alike."

The scent is described as "light with just a dash of spice to lend a fresh inviting air.



The fragrance was available in the following products:
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1/2 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Spray
  • 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash 
  • 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 7 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 2 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 1977 with the closing of the independent Jean d'Albret company. According to various vintage newspaper advertisements the Jean d'Albret name was co-branded alongside Orlane, who had acquired the Jean d'Albret brand and other associated fragrances such as Ecusson and Casaque in the 1960s. 

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Diorissimo by Christian Dior c1956

January 10, 2017, 8:57 pm
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Diorissimo by Christian Dior: created by Edmond Roudnitska and launched in 1956.




Fragrance Composition:


Edmond Roudnitska, wanted to create a perfume that would be revolutionary and break the trend of sweet perfumes that were dominating the market. The goal was to simplify perfume’s formula and create a perfume that’s simple and luminous. He dreamed of perfume similar to that of the lily of the valley that enveloped his senses when he was resting in his garden. Dior and Roudnitska met in 1955 and made their dream come true in 1956- Diorissimo was created! The perfume was represented by an illustration by René Gruau. According to Christian Dior, Diorissimo is the perfume of his spirit, or, "the scented expression of his soul".

So what did it smell like? It is classified as a romantic floral fragrance for women. I starts with a delicate, fresh green top, followed by a delicate floral heart, resting on a floral base. All the moods of lily of the valley.
  • Top notes: bergamot, leafy green notes, flower calyx note
  • Middle notes: rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, amaryllis, boronia, ylang ylang, lilac, lily, rosemary
  • Base notes: civet, sandalwood

Diorissimo was available in the following products:
  • Parfum
  • Eau de Toilette
  • Eau de Cologne


Bottles:










Fate of the Fragrance:


Diorissimo was discontinued for many years. But it was reformulated with modern ingredients by Francois Demachy and relaunched in 2009 as part of Dior’s collection Les Creations de Monsieur Dior.

The new version's composition:
  • Top notes: lily of the valley, Mayotte ylang ylang, bergamot, green notes
  • Heart notes: lilac, lily, lily of the valley, amaryllis, boronia, rosemary
  • Base notes: Egyptian jasmine absolute, white musk, sandalwood, civet

Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorissimo is available as:
  • 50ml eau de toilette
  • 100ml eau de toilette
  • 50ml  eau de parfum
  • 15ml extrait de parfum




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Poeme by Lancome c1995

January 12, 2017, 1:40 am
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Poéme by Lancôme: launched in 1995. Created by Jacques Cavallier.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich floral-oriental fragrance for women. This was the first fragrance to use a very rare ingredient, the blue poppy, found only in the Himalayan mountains. Poeme also included another rarity, the datura, a desert dwelling flower.
  • Top notes: Himalayan blue poppy, mandarin, green notes, bergamot, plum,peach, narcissus, blackcurrant and datura
  • Middle notes: tuberose, leather, ylang ylang, heliotrope, orange blossom, vanilla orchid, mimosa, jonquil, freesia, rose, jasmine and daffodil
  • Base notes: orange blossom, cedar, vanilla, amber, Tonka bean and musk


Bottles:


Presented in a prism shaped bottle with rounded curves and a clean-cut surfaces, designed by Fabien Baron.



Poeme was available in the following products:

  • Parfum
  • Eau de Parfum
  • Body Lotion
  • Body Cream
  • Shower Gel
  • Deodorant
  • Soap


Fate of the Fragrance:


Poeme has been discontinued for several years. Still sold in 2007.




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Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan by Novaya Zarya c1949

February 3, 2017, 1:37 am
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Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan by Novaya Zarya: launched around 1949. It was released in honour of the 150th anniversary of the birth of Alexander Pushkin alongside two other perfumes: Queen of Spades, and The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish.

Новая Заря: СКАЗКА О ЦАРЕ САЛТАНЕ



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. The scent was described as " an amazingly persistent, heavy, pleasant odor of the chypre variety, reminiscent of te beloved ancient legends of deepest antiquity."
  • Top notes: bergamot
  • Middle notes: flowers
  • Base notes: white musk, patchouli, oakmoss, amber


'The Tale of Tsar Saltan, of his Son the Renowned and Mighty Bogatyr Prince Gvidon Saltanovich, and of the Beautiful Princess-Swan' is an 1831 poem by Aleksandr Pushkin.

The story is of three sisters, of whom the youngest is chosen by Tsar Saltan to be his wife, while he makes the other two his royal cook and royal weaver. They are jealous of course, and when the tsarina gives birth to a son, Prince Gvidon, they arrange to have her and her child ordered to be shut up in a barrel and thrown into the sea. The sea itself takes pity on them, and they are cast up on the shore of a remote island Buyan. The son, having quickly grown while in the barrel, goes hunting. However, he ends up saving an enchanted swan from a kite. The swan creates a city for Prince Gvidon to rule, but he is homesick, and the swan turns him into a mosquito. In this guise he visits Tsar Saltan's court, w he stings his aunt's eye and escapes.

Back in his distant realm, the swan gives Gvidon a magical squirrel. But he continues to pine for home, so the swan transforms him into a fly, and in the Tsar's court he stings the eye of his other aunt. In a third round he becomes a wasp (or bee) and stings the nose of his grandmother. In the end, he expresses a desire for a bride instead of his old home, upon which the swan is revealed to be a beautiful princess, whom he marries. He is visited by the Tsar, who is overjoyed to find his wife and newly-married son.

Bottles:


The frosted and clear glass bottles are made in exceptional Russian folk pattern representing traditional woman folk costume with stoppers molded in the shape of a kokoshnik, a headdress symbolizing Russia. The large cologne bottle measures 3 3/4" tall and the smaller parfum bottle stands  3 1/2" tall. They are housed in a papier mache box measuring 7" long x 4 1/2" wide x 2" tall.




Fate of the Fragrance:


The perfume was discontinued sometime in the 1980s and can be extremely hard to find.
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Jet by Corday c1924

February 21, 2017, 9:37 pm
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Jet by Corday: launched in 1924. Originally named "Jet Parfume" from 1924 til around 1929.


Fragrance Composition:


So what did it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic spicy oriental fragrance for women with a "luxurious" leather note.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lavender, anise, peach
  • Middle notes: plum, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander, rose, jasmine, iris
  • Base notes: castoreum, orris, vetiver, leather, vanilla, amber, myrrh, frankincense, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss

The New Yorker, 1942:
"Corday: Jet is for gals who own, or yearn for, sable."

Esquire, 1945:
"And in a dark mood, a perfume yclept "Jet" . . . sparkling, sophisticated bewitchery."

 Hearst's Magazine, 1947:
"BLACK MAGIC FOR YOUR WITCHING HOURS Wherever you go, have the lovely, tenacious fragrance of JET about you like an enchanted cloak . . . for there's Black Magic in this famous Corday parfum. An elusive, dream-like quality born of French parfumeurs art...bewitchingly blended to proclaim your exciting individuality."

Bottles:


This is the original 1924 bottle for Jet Parfume by Corday, in the shape of a fountain.

photo from worthpoint

1/4 oz parfum, c1930s-1960s, photo from worthpoint


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1931
"Corday's Jet fragrance is dramatically packaged in white with black label and jet stopper."

Fashions of the Hour, 1940:
"Black magic, subtle as the glint of precious real jet. Corday's Jet perfume catches the dark allure of its namesake. 1/4-ounce bottle, $3"
Arts & Decoration, 1941:
"For very special occasions when you feel the need of extra glamor, try Jet, Corday's latest. They have what they call a Jet Set that includes a small purse carrier and two refills of Jet perfume."



c1942 ad

c1942 ad

c1942 ad




c1942 ad


Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1967.

Note: Please understand that this website is not affiliated with the Corday company in any way, it is only a reference page for collectors and those who have enjoyed the Corday fragrances.  

The goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Corday company how much we miss the discontinued classics such as Jet and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back the perfume! 

Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the perfume, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories), who knows, perhaps someone from the company might see it.
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Farouche by Nina Ricci c1973

February 27, 2017, 9:44 pm
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Farouche by Nina Ricci:  launched in 1973. Created by Michel Hy, it was composed of over 100 ingredients with the property of unfolding its full effect on contact with skin, creating a fragrance unique to its wearer.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It starts off with a fresh aldehydic top note, followed by a radiant light floral heart, resting on a powdery, feminine base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, leafy green note, mandarin orange, galbanum, peach and bergamot
  • Middle notes: broom blossom, cyclamen, honeysuckle, Indian carnation, orris, lily, clary sage, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose alsolute, geranium and cardamom
  • Base notes: orange leaves, sandalwood, amber, musk, oakmoss and vetiver


The American Home, 1977:
"Nina Ricci's new fragrance, Farouche (French for both "wild" and "shy"), is created from jasmine, rose absolute, rare Oriental fruits, and woodsy blossoms— all meant to complement your personality. 2-oz. Eau de Toilette Spray (refillable)."

House Beautiful, 1977:
"Andrea de Portago, who is half Spanish nobility (her father's side) and half Southern belle (her mother's), is the new model and spokesperson for Nina Ricci's "Farouche" fragrance."


Bottles:

The fragrance was available in parfum, eau de toilette, bath oil and perfumed soap. The parfum was quite expensive when it was launched, a one ounce Lalique flacon retailed at $75.


Vogue, 1977:
"There is a special kind of woman the French call "Farouche. ... In her image, Nina Ricci, Paris, has created a soft but sensuous fragrance. ... And in her honor, has named it Farouche. Perhaps, you are the Farouche woman. The Farouche Deluxe Parfum Flacon is a Lalique Crystal Original bearing the Lalique signature. The longer you know the Farouche woman the more interesting she becomes."


Playbill, 1977:
"Nina Ricci characterizes its Farouche perfume as a lady "independent but not aggressive; strong, but unimpeachably feminine." Sounds like Jackie O. to me. Anyway, Farouche smells lovely, simply lovely, $85 in Lalique crystal."


Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Despite the high quality of the Nina Ricci perfumes, four fragrances were unsuccessful in the American market (Coeur Joie, Capricci, Farouche and Fleurs de Fleurs), yet, they are successful in Europe. Why? Because most American women prefer stronger fragrances rather than the light, flowery scents enjoyed by European women. Furthermore, European women believe femininity is enhanced by a perfume, and they place more importance on the decorative crystal bottles and packaging than American women do. “ The French image of perfume is very romantic, feminine and sophisticated,” says Lina Vitali, vice president of Parfums Nina Ricci, USA in 1989. “The American perfume’s image is more aggressive, sexual and overpowering.”


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Vers le Jour by Worth c1924

March 6, 2017, 10:30 pm
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Vers le Jour by Worth: (Towards Dawn) launched in 1924, in USA by 1925. Created by Maurice Blanchet.






Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like?  I have no notes on the original composition. I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.
  • Top notes:
  • Heart notes: 
  • Base notes: 


Vanity Fair, 1927:
"The perfumes are Worth's "Dans la Nuit." in the smaller blue bottle, and "Vers le Jour," in the larger amber bottle; from Franklin Simon."
The New Yorker, 1947:
""Vers le Jour." for the slightly masculine woman."



Bottles:


The bottle was designed by Rene Lalique.









Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Reformulated and relaunched in 2000.

So what does it smell like?  The fragrance is classified as a fresh, fruity floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, red berries, rose and angelica root
  • Heart notes: narcissus, cyclamen, jasmine, osmanthus, May rose, peony, peach, pineapple and watermelon
  • Base notes: Virginia cedar, sandalwood and musk





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Murasaki by Shiseido c1980

March 20, 2017, 10:43 am
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Murasaki by Shiseido: launched in 1980. Created by Jean-Claude Astier.

The name translates to "purple" which is reflected in the bottle design which features purple accents. The name also refers to Lady Shikibu Murasaki, the Chinese royal court figure of the 11th century who penned the love story "Tale of Ghenj".




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. It begins with a green top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a sensual, woody, powdery base.
  • Top notes: gardenia, galbanum, peach, hyacinth and bergamot
  • Middle notes: chrysanthemum, orris, lily, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, and rose
  • Base notes: leather, sandalwood, amber, musk, oakmoss and vetiver

Cosmopolitan, 1980:
"The mystery, the allure of the Orient infuses Shiseido's Murasaki. Named for the legendary Lady Murasaki, the blend is pure liquid opulence ... notes of lily, rose, iris, and chrysanthemum with deeper accents of green ferns and mosses. Truly a fragrance for a geisha (or for you!) in you. 1/2 oz $50."


Bottle:

The original bottle for Murasaki is a deep amethyst purple glass with purple packaging. This was discontinued at some time.

Murasaki was available in the following:

  • 0.40 oz Parfum
  • 0.5 oz Parfum Splash
  • 2 oz Eau de Parfum Splash
  • 0.27 oz Eau de Parfum Mini Splash
  • 0.67 Eau de Parfum Pure Mist Spray 
  • 2 oz Eau de Parfum Pure Mist Spray 
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Pure Mist Spray
  • Solid Perfume Fan Compact
  • 0.03 oz Solid Perfume Cylindrical Pendant


Fate of the Fragrance:

The Murasaki fragrance was reformulated and relaunched in a new bottle during the 1990s. The new bottle is clear glass with purple accents.



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Elgin American Beauty Compacts, Cigarette Cases & Lighters c1951 Advertisement

March 23, 2017, 2:04 am
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Elgin American Beauty Compacts, cigarette cases and lighters shown in an advertisement in a from a 1951 General American Co. catalog.













images: ebay seller gdawg

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Safranor by LT Piver c1901

March 29, 2017, 10:54 am
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Safranor by LT Piver: launched in 1901. (Trademark filed in 1904, Piver claimed use of the name since 1901.)



Safranor was available in a variety of products:
  • Parfum (extrait/essence)
  • Eau de Toilette
  • Soap
  • Face Powder
  • Talc
  • Poudre a Sachet (sachet powder)


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, saffron
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, iris, heliotrope
  • Base notes: musk, oakmoss, coumarin, patchouli, isoeugenol, Bourbonal

Here is the Safranor recipe from "Die Moderne Parfumerie":
  • 4000g infusion of jasmine
  • 3000g infusion of rose
  • 1000g tincture of iris
  • 100g tincture of musk
  • 1000g oakmoss tincture
  • 200g heliotropin
  • 20g Bourbonal (ethyl vanillin by Haarmann & Reimer)
  • 5g coumarin
  • 15g bergamot oil
  • 40g patchouli oil
  • 10g isoeugenol
  • 80g synthetic rose oil


Bottle:

Safranor was contained in a simple clear glass bottle with ground glass stopper. The real attraction was in it's polychromed paper label which featured stunning Alfonse Mucha style Art Nouveau graphics which recalled the images on its presentation box.



The face powder box "Poudre Safranor" repeated the same imagery as on the presentation box.




The gorgeous soap box "Savon Safranor" measured almost 8" long, 4" wide and a little over 2" high. It held several cakes of soap inside.




Fate of the Fragrance:

Safranor seems to have been discontinued around 1920 but reformulated and relaunched in 1922. It was discontinued at some time, but the actual date is unknown. It was still being sold in 1942.




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PERFUME HACK - Removing the Odor of Perfume

April 5, 2017, 7:44 pm
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How to Remove Perfume Odor on the Skin:

Ever have stubborn perfume odor that lingers on your hands even after washing them over and over again? If you want to get it removed, you can use this quick hack:
  • Take one part of household ammonia and mix it with three parts water. Rinse your hands in this mixture a few times and then wash your hands with soap and water.It should take the perfume smell away. Remember, you must use the diluted ammonia to keep the skin from getting irritated. 
  • Another quick method is to make a paste of baking soda and water, apply it onto the skin where the perfume odor remains and rub gently. Then rinse off.  


How to Remove Perfume Odor from Clothing or Linens:

Sprayed your favorite perfume on your nice dress? How about your scarf, does it seem to retain the odor of last year's perfume? Did you purchase a second hand garment and want to get that stinky perfume smell out of it? A good alkali will kill the odor of almost any perfume and again, household ammonia will help you out! It also will help boost the performance of your detergent and brighten your whites.
  • You can add 1/2 cup of household ammonia to the water, along with the detergent, before you add clothes into the washing machine. If you are hand washing, you can try the method of one part ammonia to three parts water and a little bit of detergent so that it will not irritate your skin while you wash. Rinse and repeat if necessary.   
  • Another method is to soak clothing in a sink or washing machine filled with warm water and one cup baking soda before washing. 
  • Some peroxide will also help take the perfume stains out of your linens. You may wish to do a separate rinse with this ingredient. 
  • Fill a spray bottle with cheap, high proof vodka. Then spray on the perfumed area of your clothing. The vodka dries odorless and  should kill any scent. This is an effective method if you cannot wash the garment such as silk.



How to Remove Perfume Odor from Empty Bottles:

Want to reuse a perfume bottle for another purpose, or refill it with another? You may find that the odor of some perfumes persist even after all the liquid has evaporated or been cleaned out. Before adding a new perfume, this must be removed. Here is a handy method for anyone who wishes to reuse an atomizer and get the scent of the previous perfume out for good!

  • Wash it with hot soap and water using a bottle brush. Rinse with clear water. Then fill the bottle with a strong solution of borax and warm water and let stand for several hours. Then empty the bottle and rinse again. 
  • If this method does not work, or you do not have borax on hand, you can use household ammonia. But do not dilute it, pour it straight from the bottle into the perfume bottle, insert the stopper and allow it to stand for a few hours. Then you can empty it and rinse with warm soapy water.
  • To remove odor from bath salts bottles and jars so that they could be use for fruits or other foods, fill the bottle or jar with a very strong solution of hot water and apple cider vinegar (about 1/4 cup vinegar). Let stand a couple of hours; rinse with hot water, then add another mixture of vinegar and water if necessary, and you will find odor will have completely disappeared. Just washing with soap and water will not take away the smell.


How to Remove Perfume Spillage Odor from Carpet or Upholstery:

Did you accidentally knock over a bottle of perfume onto the rug or sofa and now the smell is overpowering?

  • Mix one quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda and a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent in a spray bottle to get rid of perfume odor in carpet or on upholstery. Spray the affected area and let sit for 24 hours. Blot away the excess with a paper towel and let air dry.




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Black Casket by Novaya Zarya c1947

April 8, 2017, 8:35 am
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Black Casket by Novaya Zarya: launched in 1947. Chyornyi Larets  (Tchernyi Larets)  черный гроб

The perfume was created by Vitkovskaya A.P.

Black Casket was imported into the United States by an American company known as The Russian Shop, who imported various Russian fragrances in the 1960s.

The name was said to be changed to "Treasure Chest" by 1961.

 Anglo-American News - Volume 28, 1961:
"Russian marketing experts show an acute sense of the problems of product presentation and merchandising in foreign markets. For instance, a big-selling perfume on the Soviet domestic-market, Black Casket, has been renamed Treasure Chest."



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral amber (oriental) fragrance for women. It begins with a sweet, floral green top followed by a rich floral heart, resting on an oriental base. It was suggested to be worn as an evening perfume for romantic occasions.

  • Top notes: peony, lily of the valley
  • Middle notes: carnation,  rose, chrysanthemum
  • Base notes: amber, vanilla, sandalwood, spices


The fragrance made use of the following aroma chemicals: isoeugenol and hydroxycitronellol.


Bottle:

The bottle has a beautiful cone-shaped ground-glass stopper that has eight faceted sides. The sides of the bottle are mostly frosted glass with areas of clear glass toward the top. In the clear-glass area, eight arrows point downward at regular intervals around the sides of the bottle. The gently rounded arches between the arrows are almost architectural in appearance, suggesting the doors or windows of a Russian Orthodox church.

The eau de cologne bottle stands 4.75" tall and the parfum bottle stands 4" tall. The base should have a round gold metallic paper label.

The bottle design is also reflected in the detailed pictures on the box. The bottles rest on a base lined with green or white satin fabric. The gift sets hold a bottle of parfum and eau de cologne.




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