Cleopatra's Boudoir

Grigri by Weil: launched in 1943. The name pronounced "Gree Gree", is African in origin and means "magic charm" or "talisman." I believe that this perfume, with its exotic name and advertisements, was some sort of patriotic allusion to the French colonies in West Africa. Jean Patou, another French perfume manufacturer visited this theme with his perfume, Colony.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no published notes on this composition other than it was a warm, spicy sandalwood scent for women.

Top notes:
Middle notes: spices
Base notes: sandalwood

GriGri was advertised as formulated with a certain chemical that would be activated in the presence of cigarette smoke, this chemical would intensify the perfume's scent so that the nicotine smell would not be overpowering.

The New Yorker, 1945:

"Weil has a new perfume called GriGri, a sultry scent that many will adore (Bonwit Teller)."

The New Yorker, 1945:

"Weil: Grigri, the most recent arrival here, is mainly, we think, for the lady who likes a very heavy scent loaded with sandalwood and sultriness. The great old favorite, Noir, is back, having lost none of its definite appeal."

Advertising & Selling - Volume 39, 1946:

"Ask us what's new on the perfume front and all we can mutter is "GriGri!" To its makers, Parfums Weil, GriGri "

Harper's Bazaar, 1946:

"Weil's mischievous "GriGri." 2 oz., $35."

The Churchman, Volume 160, 1946:

"Do you find the troubled world confusing? If so, the following little gem will make it all very simple. You should take it seriously; it cost the Parfums Weil Paris Co. several hundred dollars to enshrine it in a full page of The New York Times, for the benefit of the feminine intellectually elite. Hold your breath, for here it is : GriGri is pronounced "Gree Gree" and sounds a bit like the love call of a lonely little cricket lost in the ecstatic contemplation of a dew drop. To us of course, the name is charming. Light hearted, yet sentimental, indeed romantic if with a dash of inconsequential in its plea. GriGri is not for the passionate, the inflamed, the acrobats, but Eros, God of Love, may have used it when he young. We created GriGri because it will replace nicely the block buster and robot bomb."

TIME, 1946:

"Perfumes of all kinds sold heavily everywhere. Parfums Weil Paris Co. neatly fell into the effervescent mood of shoppers by introducing a new scent called "GriGri." It was designed to "replace - the blockbuster and the robot bomb" with "a dash of the inconsequential."

Kansas City Star, 1948:

"Weil's Antelope Perfume - Daring and different and refreshing as a forest green. Weil's COBRA - Filled with mysticism of far away places. Weil’s ZIBELINE - A scent that sets you apart from all others. Weil’s CASSANDRA - Opens a magic world to those clever enough to choose it. Weil’s GRI GRI - Bright laughter on a night filled with gaiety."

Bottles:

Drug and Cosmetic Catalog, 1945:

"GriGri is the name of a perfume introduced by Parfums Weil, GriGri, pronounced Gree Gree, is a sentimental, romantic fragrance presented in an attractive chartreuse and maroon package."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown, most likely around 1952.

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Besame by Myrurgia: launched in 1922.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no notes on this perfume. I would imagine it was an oriental type perfume.

Top notes:
Middle notes:
Base notes:

Bottles:

The flacon for Besame was designed by Julien Viard and features stylized foliage motifs in the oriental taste. The stopper also has a stylized floral decoration. The bottle stands 3-1/2" tall.

The presentation box for the perfume is decorated with panels that mimic antique Persian miniatures. You can see three close ups of the panels below.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

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Platine by Dana: launched in 1938 in France and in USA by 1939.

The name means "platinum" and the bottles had silvery platinum foil flakes floating inside to resemble platinum. The fragrance was also released in Spanish-speaking countries as Platino.

Platine was available in the following forms:

Parfum
Cologne
Dusting Powder
Lotion (Locion)
Bath Oil

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women with a sparkling aldehydic top note and lots of soapy Bulgarian roses.

Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, jonquil and narcissus
Middle notes: orange blossom, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, jasmine, iris, tuberose and Bulgarian rose
Base notes: ambergris, musk, patchouli, juniper, cypress, orris, vetiver, sandalwood, oak moss and styrax

Fate of the Fragrance:

Platine was discontinued sometime in the late 1970s.

Period Advertisements:

Drug & Cosmetics Industry, 1938:

"Dana Perfumes - Emile Rosenberg, export director of Dana, S. A., Paris, France, is visiting this country and studying the market for perfumes with a view towards the passible introduction of the company's "Platinum" and "20 Carats" in this market. These two odors have actual gold and platinum leaf suspended in the perfume and according to Mr. Rosenberg, are widely sold in Central and South America as well as in France."

Esquire, 1951:

"PLATINE . . . light but extremely lasting . . . the very essence of dignity for the woman of great dignity."

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

""Platine"— a hint of sex appeal, quite lightly and elegantly implied. By Dana. One ounce. $18.50."

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Images shown in an advertisement from a 1907 Fort Dearborn Watch & Clock Co. Catalog, Chicago, Il.

Nectaroma by Tuvache: launched in 1960.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women with a warm, grassy note.

Top notes: cassis, basil leaf, cardamom, bergamot and mandarin orange
Middle notes: spices, lily-of-the-valley, neroli and french orange flower
Base notes: oakmoss, musk, violet, cedar and vetiver

Harper's Bazaar - Volume 94, 1961:

"NECTAROMA. BATH FRAGRANCE AND BODY JOY Just airborne—a great new fragrance fashion, rich and rare—warm—flashingly brilliant. A few drops in your bath or on your skin surround you with loveliness to herald your approach."

The New Yorker, 1962:

"Tuvaché some time ago brought out a bath perfume, called Nectaroma, that is all outdoors—sunny, grassy, and flowery. Now they've gone and made a perfume of it, to say nothing of all manner of powders and other condiments for the bathtub. They're to be found most everywhere."

Playbill, 1962:

"GOES WITH A WOMAN A fragrance born in the sun, born anew on a woman who loves masses of flowers in every room, the best of everything in life . . . Nectaroma — today's fashion fragrance. Like love, it's indispensable!"

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued for years before being reformulated and relaunched in 2013 by Irma Shorell.

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Snuff by Schiaparelli: launched in 1939. The name was taken from the color brown dubbed "Snuff" by Elsa Schiaparelli.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a dry, woodsy-mossy scent for men. Perfect to be worn with tweed suits and for outdoor activities.

Top notes: bergamot, fruity notes, green notes and lavender
Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, geranium, patchouli, orris root and pine
Base notes: oakmoss, musk, amber, sandalwood, vanilla, olibanum, vetiver, myrrh and leather

Modern Packaging, 1945:

"Schiaparelli adds a big, chunky cake of Snuff soap to her line of quality toiletries for men just in time for the Christmas gift trade. Like the other Snuff products, perfume and eau de cologne, the soap is packaged in a modern version of a ..."

Saturday Review, Volume 37, 1954:

"Did you know that Schiaparelli had added an after-shaving lotion for men to her line of toiletries? ... "Snuff' is its brand name, and although the $2.50 price tag may be a deterrent at first isn't it worth a premium really to smell as tangy and look like a modern version of a cigar box..."

Cue, 1954:

"Shaped like a pipe is the handsome bottle in which Schiaparelli is offering its male-aimed Snuff perfume ($12) or cologne ($5 and $9). And the Snuff Gift Sets, containing cologne, after-shave lotion and talc for $9.50, look for all the world like cigar boxes."

Esquire - Volume 51, 1959:

"Snuff cologne and soap, Schiaparelli, $9"

Soap, 1962:

"Mary Chess, Inc., of New York, buys Seaforth toiletry line.... Two other lines of men's toiletries, the "Chivalry" line, originally the "Chessman" line, and Schiaparelli's "Snuff" line.

Esquire, 1963:

"Treasure chest with pull-out drawer contains cologne, after-shave lotion, bath soap, brushless shave cream, hair groomer, deodorant stick and talc, Snuff de Schiaparelli, $15."

Harper's Bazaar, 1964:

"Christmas for the cock-of-the-walk man: Snuff — marvelously dashing, altogether male eau de cologne — was created by Schiaparelli for her personal friends when she opened her boutique in Paris."

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

It was discontinued for several years before being relaunched in 1977. It has since been discontinued.

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Sikkim by Lancome: launched in 1971, and created by Robert Gonnon.

Original:

During the early part of the 1970s, America and the rest of the world became interested in a tiny kingdom named Sikkim. Hidden away in the Himalayas, the King, Thondup and Queen, Hope (formerly the New York debutante Hope Cooke) ruled over a population of just 200,000. Sikkim (Nepali,i.e. the "Goodly Region") is a landlocked Indian state nestled in the Himalayan mountains. The state borders Nepal to the west, China's Tibet Autonomous Region to the north and east, and Bhutan to the southeast, while the state of West Bengal lies to the south.

In 1970, the couple came to America to attend various parties thrown by high society, and the public was enthralled by the tales of the country and to promote the development of its industries,whose exports included Sikkim rugs. Soon Hope interested Bergdorf Goodman into carrying Parisian designed dresses made from Sikkim fabrics, and Thondup's older sister created jewelry which was sold by Van Cleef & Arpels in New York. Bergdorf's held a fashion show promoting the clothing and the Smithsonian also held a fashion show which was presided over the King & Queen of Sikkim.

Perfume companies also jumped on the Sikkim bandwagon, Lancome introduced its newest fragrance for women, simply named Sikkim in 1971. The inspiration for the exotic perfume was the lush perfumed floral gardens of the Far East.

Originally Sikkim was available in parfum and eau de toilette. These early perfumes are sold in boxes with a burled wood pattern and a large L on the front.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was originally classified as an oriental chypre fragrance for women.

Top notes: aldehydes, tangerine, galbanum, cinnamon, caraway, bergamot, narcissus,
Middle notes: carnation, iris, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, gardenia, ylang ylang, spices
Base notes: orris, amber, castoreum, coconut, thujone, leather, musk, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver.

I was very grateful to receive a sample of vintage Sikkim, although my sample seems to have turned, what I did make out what very green, slightly musty and bitter with a sour citrus topnote. My husband says it smells like baby powder. A ladies fragrance, but certainly a fragrance that can be worn proudly by any man.

1989 - 1st Reformulation and Relaunch:

Sikkim was discontinued by 1974-1975 but was relaunched in 1989 along with two other fragrances Magie and Climat for a special show. The perfumes were hand filled from a Baccarat urn into crystal flacons. In 1991, it was reformulated as a fruity chypre and relaunched to the public in parfum and eau de parfum concentrations. These bottles are housed in white and gray boxes with gilded accents.

2005 - 2nd Reformulation and Relaunch :

Sikkim was reissued as an eau de toilette in 2005 along with Climat, Magie, and Sagamore as part of the perfume collection “La Collection Fragrances”, which was launched to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the perfume tradition of the house of Lancôme.

I have read that the new edition doesn’t smell exactly like the original. The difference between old and new is probably due to reformulation. The IFRA, the International Fragrance Association, established restrictions in Europe on the use of a number of significant fragrance materials, especially oakmoss, a fixative which is used in so many chypre, fougere, and oriental scents. Unfortunately, vetiver has also fallen under these regulations, much to the chagrin of many devotees.

The elegant, transparent bottles of La Collection perfumes were designed in the early 1970s by George Delhomme, one of the founders of the house of Lancôme.

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Breidenbach et Cie., Ltd was established by Aaron Page at Park Street, Grosvenor Square, London in 1793. Aaron Page was listed as a hairdresser, perfumer and distiller of eau de cologne.

Later the business was passed onto his son William, then onto his son-in-law Francis Henry Breidenbach on his marriage to his daughter Emily.

Francis Henry Breidenbach had been born in Cologne, did his training in Paris, subsequently was bestowed a Royal Warrant in 1841. He later moved to New Bond Street in 1852 and to then onto Burlington Arcade in 1900.

The Spectator, 1859:

"BREIDENBACH Distiller by to the Queen 157 New Bond Street. The following will vouch for the superior perfumes distilled by H. Breidenbach. Mr. Breidenbach has become a perfect artiste en parfumes, he touches the rose with the scent of the lily, and adds a perfume to the violet, until at last he finds himself in such a flowery maze, that it becomes absolutely necessary to create names for his refined aromas. Amongst a perfect galaxy of refreshing scents all bearing names of some notability of political military or even literary culture we can recommend from our own preference the Malakoff bouquet the Palmerston or the Panmure all deliciously fragrant yet differing essentially from one another."

Pharmaceutical Journal, 1908:

"Regent" for perfumery including toilet articles preparations for the teeth and hair and perfumed soap Reginald Blackwell Breidenbach, trading as Breidenbach and Co. 48 Greek Street, Soho Square, London W, manufacturing perfumer."

In 1916 family name was changed to Bryden, as due to the first World War, a German sounding name was not advantageous at that time. The business was eventually sold to Eugene Rimmel Ltd in 1930. (http://www.landdbryden.co.uk/breidenbach/index.htm)

The perfumes of Breidenbach:

1852 The Royal Hunt Bouquet
1853 Empress Eugenie’s Nosegay
1853 Eau de Cologne
1853 Sandal Wood
1853 Japanese Perfume
1853 English Wallflowers
1853 White Rose
1853 Clove Pink
1853 Flowers of Erin
1853 Sweet Briar
1853 Bouquet of the Prado
1853 Wood Violet (Violette du Bois)
1856 Forget Me Not
1859 Bouquet Palmerston
1859 Panmure
1859 Malakoff Bouquet
1861 Zouave Bouquet
1866 Queen's Own
1866 Prince of Wales
1866 Princess of Wales
1866 South Sea Myrtle
1866 Royal Osborne
1866 Curious Essence
1866 Number One
1866 L'Africaine
1866 Westeria
1866 Fraxinella
1866 Mathiola
1870 Opoponax
1871 Lord of Lorne Bouquet
1871 Rose
1871 Heliotrope
1871 Bride of the Highlands Bouquet
1871 Musk
1871 Frangipanni
1871 Quest
1876 Talipat Blossoms from Ceylon
1876 Ess Bouquet
1876 Ipomoea
1876 Jasmin
1876 Jockey Club
1876 Stephanotis
1876 New Mown Hay
1876 Spring Blossoms
1876 White Moss Rose
1876 Opoponax
1876 Polo Club
1876 Chypre
1878 Abronia
1878 Olde English Lavender Water
1880 Acme Bouquet
1880 Phlomis
1882 Albany Bouquet
1883 Essence of Lloydia
1883 Neapolitan Violet
1884 Soudan Bouquet
1887 Hungary Water
1887 Florida Water
1887 Triple Essence of Ixia
1890 Triple Extract Lily of the Valley
1890 Triple Extract Wallflower
1890 Triple Extract White Rose
1890 Aux Fleurs Night Scented Stock
1890 Xylopia
1894 Ba-Tush-Ka
1894 Double Extract of White Rose
1898 Bay Rum
1899 Mei-Butsu
1900 Violette de Parme – Triple Extract
1901 Coronation Lily
1907 Marquise
1908 San Toy
1910 The Geisha Bouquet
Heather
Extrait Bouquet d’Albert
Extrait Bouquet Reine Victoria
GR. IV Lavender
Grand Duchess
Lavender
Lavender Royale
Princess Myra
Violette de Parme
Wild Apple Blossoms
Rosuria

Antilope by Weil: launched in 1928. The perfume was trademarked in 1931 and was relaunched after WWII ended in 1945. Created by Claude Fraysse.

c1947 ad

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It starts out with an aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a warm, woody base.

Top notes: aldehydes, spices, orange, chamomile, bergamot, tangerine, neroli, galbanum, acacia farnesiana
Middle notes: hyacinth, iris, Nepalese rose, rose de Mai, orris, narcissus, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, violet, jasmine, clary sage
Base notes: sandalwood, leather, cedar, civet, musk, Egyptian vetiver, amber, oakmoss

Official gazette of the United States Patent Office, 1949:

"ANTILOPE" FOR PERFUMES, TOILET WATERS, ROUGE, LIPSTICK, AND FACE CREAM. Claims use since May 1, 1931. Reg. No. 330,415. Registered Dec. 3, 1935. Societe des Parfums Weil, Societe Anonyme, Paris, France."

Woman's Guide to Europe, 1954:

"LT Piver— "Un Parfum d'aventure"— for blondes; "Cuir de Russie"— bittersweet; "Floramye"— a favorite since 1916; "Pompeia" and "Reve d'Or"-for brunettes. ... Weil, 4 Rue Sainte-Anne. "Antilope"— for blondes or Titians; "

The New Yorker, 1956:

"In the luxury bracket, let us remind you of Revillon's Carnet de Bal, and Weil's Zibeline and Antilope. Weil has a new purse-size cut-glass bottle, equipped with a silver-metal top for spraying. "

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

"Weil's "Antilope" perfume, crisp and woodsy and incidentally, a delicious complement to your furs. Two ounces, $27.50."

Country Fair, 1968:

"For sheer feminine luxury Weil of Paris have some delightful bath preparations — Bain de Mousse (sea blue foam bath)..Secret de Venus (bath oil) ..Soap...Talc... all in several perfumes, but I recommend Antilope to match their superb Satin Antilope (all over after bath treatment)."

Bottles:

c1954 ad

c1960 ad

c1961

Fate of the Fragrance:

Unfortunately, Antilope has been reformulated over the years. Many reviewers claim that the newer versions do not smell as nice as the original version.

Top notes: aldehydes, spice note, citrus oils
Middle notes: jasmine, rose, orris, lily of the valley, violet
Base notes: cedar, vetiver, leather, musk, amber

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Beautiful engine turned and enameled compacts and vanities by Marathon in an advertisement from a 1927 Huntley & Co. catalog. These compacts were stated to be made up of "white gold composition silver", in other words, a white metal alloy made to look like white gold or sterling silver.

#179 was set with "French marcasites" and an amber stone.

Kali by Dana: launched in 1950, some sources say 1933, but Dana trademarked the name in 1952 and claimed use since 1944.

The name Kali refers to a Hindu goddess with a long and complex history in Hinduism. Sometimes presented as dark and violent, killing demons, Kali is also portrayed as a benevolent mother-goddess.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as an oriental fragrance for women. I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.

Top notes:
Middle notes: spices, flowers
Base notes: sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla, benzoin, amber

Bottle:

The perfume was housed inside of a rectangular black glass bottle with rounded shoulders, topped by a small, faceted cylindrical stopper, also of black glass. The black paper label is decorated with a dancing female figure wearing an ornate headdress and four arms in white. The female figure is a figure from mythology. The base of the bottle is impressed "Dana Made in France".

Kali parfum was available in two sizes:

1 oz
1 1/32 oz

Kali was also available in brilliantine.

Period Advertisements:

Pittsburgh Post-Gazette - Aug 31, 1950:

"Less than a month old are Dana's Canoe and Kali, as haunting aromas as Dana's other perfumes."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Kali was probably discontinued by the 1960s.

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Dioressence by Christian Dior: created by Guy Robert and launched in 1969.

Dioressence was first available as a bath oil concentrate, to help condition and perfume the skin. In the same year, it was also available as body lotion, cologne spray concentre and eau parfumee spray (an eau de parfum), followed by friction lotion, foaming milk bath and hand soap. These items were sold from 1969 til 1975.

From 1979 onward, the fragrance was available in parfum, eau de toilette, body lotion, dusting powder, hand soap, talc, body cream, bath gel, solid perfume,

In 1982, the Dioressence Esprit de Parfum was introduced.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a modern oriental-chypre fragrance for women. It starts off with an aromatic top note, followed by a spicy floral heart, resting on a warm, balsamic base.

Top notes: aldehydes, orange, narcissus, fruity notes, patchouli, green notes, bergamot, neroli
Middle notes: forsythia, carnation, clove, tuberose, cinnamon, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose, geranium
Base notes: Ambrein, musk, patchouli, Siamese benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver, styrax, sandalwood

Cosmopolitan 1980:

"For Her - Uninhibited but-classy IS Dioressence, the newest offering from Christian Dior. A heady blend of jasmine, neroli, patchouli, geranium, and musk, Dioressence is the kind of scent most men find terribly alluring . . .and isn't that what it's for?"

McCalls 1980:

"Dioressence, new from Christian Dior, with gentle top notes of roses and jasmine, woody middle notes of patchouli and sandalwood, and light hints of oakmoss and geranium."

The Commonwealth, 1982:

"Dioressence for Women. The quintessential fragrance, a lacy textured scent, delicate and refined. Combining subtle innocence with uninhibited passion to form a light floral blend that lingers on. For a modern feminine appeal."

Product Marketing, Cosmetic & Fragrance Retailing, 1983:

"Braun's packaging of Christian Dior's Dioressence Perfumed Body Lotion is innovative on several counts, according to a Dior spokesperson. For one, it is the first of Dior's containers to be conceived and produced totally in the States rather than in France."

Product Marketing 1984:

"It doesn't take any real marketing genius to spot a price point gap here. But it wasn't filled until Christian Dior introduced Dioressence Esprit de Parfum in 1982. A Spirited Solution. Noting that women considered Eau de Toilette “too discreet". . .Parfum's "too luxurious for regular daytime use," Dior offered them “an effusive luxury."

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Dioressence was discontinued from 1975-1979, and then it was reintroduced in 1979, but reformulated to compete with YSL's Opium perfume. However, it was discontinued for many years (still being sold in 1999).

In 2009, it was reformulated with modern ingredients and relaunched as part of Dior’s collection Les Creations de Monsieur Dior.

The newest version's composition:

Top notes: aldehydes, fruit, bergamot, orange, Indonesian patchouli, green notes
Heart notes: violet, tuberose, jasmine, carnation, rose, Egyptian geranium, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, Ceylon cinnamon, orris root
Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, vanilla, galbanum, musk, moss, styrax, vetiver

Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Dioressence is available as:

50ml eau de toilette
100ml eau de toilette

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L'Origan by Coty: launched in 1905. Some of you may remember L'Origan as the scent of Coty's famous Airspun Face Powder.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh, spicy top, followed by a spicy floral heart, layered over a woody, powdery base.

Top notes: Bourbon ylang ylang, neroli, peach, pepper, coriander, mandarin orange, bergamot
Middle notes: clove buds, violet, orchid, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, nutmeg, cinnamon, spicy carnation, orris
Base notes: Bourbon vetiver, labdanum, opoponax, cedar, vanilla, sandalwood, tonka, civet, musk, musk ambrette, frankincense, Virginian cedar, Siamese benzoin, ambergris

L'Origan made use of the ambreine accord, which is formed between bergamot, vanillin (or ethyl vanillin), coumarin and civet, with woody (vetiver, patchouli 4% and sandalwood) and rose notes (Calkin and Jellinek 1994). This was also used in the following oriental ambery fragrances: Shalimar by Guerlain, Must de Cartier and Obsession by Calvin Klein.

Other aromachemicals also play their parts in the construction of L'Origan: eugenol, methyl ionone, vetiveryl acetate, musk ketones, heliotropin, cinnamic alcohol and nitromusks.

In addition to the ambreine accord, L'Origan features six other specially compounded bases: Dianthine (Naef/Firmenich), Iralia (Firmenich), Coralys (Samuelson/Naef/Firmenich), Foin Rigaud (De Laire), Flonol (De Laire), and Bouvardia (Schimmel).

Dianthine lends a spicy, carnation bouquet, while Iralia forms sweet, floral woody notes. The marriage of these two notes was used successfully in the Coty perfume L'Ambre Antique. The Foin Rigaud was a new mown hay synthetic, Flonol is an orange flower base, Eugenol intensifies the clove like facet of carnation while Bouvardia provided a jasmine effect in the heart of the fragrance. Coralys helped to give the perfume it's powerful Oriental vibe.

A 1931 chemistry book gives the following ingredients to create the L'Origan type perfume:
white carnation flower oil, Orrisin M (by Agfa), Heliotropine, Coumarin, Vanillin, Havannia Base, Ambra Grisea, Jasmine Base, Red Rose Synthetic, Oil Vetivert Bourbon Oil, Bergamot, Musk Ketone

The rich, sweet, floral oriental beauty of L'Origan paved the way for the fantastic 1912 Guerlain creation, L'Heure Bleue. However, this genre of perfumes lied dormant until 1976 when a revival of the style was used in the signature perfume of Oscar de la Renta. This was followed by other modern fragrances such as Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt, Saint Laurent's controversial Poison, and Cacharel's LouLou.

All of these shared a characteristic accord between ylang ylang and eugenol (carnation), the Schiff bases of orange blossom or tuberose, methyl ionone (except Poison), and vanillin, with additional notes of heliotropin and coumarin.

Connie, a reader of my blog, graciously sent me some very old samples of Coty perfumes, which I call the "Big Three". Emeraude, L'Aimant and L'Origan. These perfumes have stood the test of time and have remained popular for decades.

L'Origan, this is old L'Origan, c1920-1930s era, gorgeous and definitely done right. I really enjoyed reviewing this one, I detected notes of oranges, honeyed roses, a kick of pepper with coriander, orchids, sexy musk, sweet ylang ylang, powdery ambergris and labdanum, and woody cedar and sandalwood notes.An hour later I can still smell citrus, pepper and cedar notes.

This one reminds me of a regal Renaissance era queen. This beautiful woman, with her ravishing good looks and blond upswept hair, regularly lifts a chain suspended from her chatelaine, it has a small sterling silver pomander at the end which she brings to her face. It is made up segments, just like an orange and inside each segment, is a tiny compartment filled with spices and scents. One is filled with dried orange peels, the other with a chunk of ambergris, one segment is filled with pungent cloves, another with piquant black pepper, while another is filled with coriander, and one is filled with sweet sandalwood chips. She also likes to dab on a cologne made up of rare ingredients from far away places, including sensuous musk, Atlas cedar, heady rose, delicate orchid petals and ylang ylang blossoms. This beautiful blend was made for her by a talented French perfumer on her last visit to Paris.

Bottles:

1926 ad

Fate of the Fragrance:

L'Origan was reformulated and relaunched in 2004 as a special limited edition only available in France.

Cheaper reformulations existed in some forms and this old stock was sold mostly by discount internet retailers. The reason for the reformulations was most likely due to the fact that some of the characteristic bases that made L'Origan such a beautiful scent are no longer available and that IFRA may have placed restrictions on some of the ingredients.

Unfortunately, by 2005, Coty discontinued L'Origan, but I suppose that is just as well because the modern incarnations of this classic paled in comparison to the glorious vintages.

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Magie Noire by Lancôme: launched in 1978. Created by Gérard Goupy. It was the first new fragrance from Lancome for a decade and has earned a place amongst its beloved classics.

The launch party for Magie Noire was a high class, formal affair held at the Saint in the heart of the East Village. Lancome’s public relations woman, Joan Lasker Kennedy stated that Lancome “wanted the launch to be the most elegant launch New York had ever seen.”

She went on to say that it was important to “downplay the commercial aspects. No speeches. No long presentations. You try to match the luxury of the fragrance.” The evening was dominated by 150 store executives - who actually order the fragrance, and the rest of the other 150 people were made up members of the press.

“In the launch business, the key to success is being different”, said professional party planner Lore Moser. He further went in to say that Joan Kennedy had her eyes set on the Saint, which in the late 1970s, was a predominantly gay disco and in his opinion “the Saint is certainly different.” One female party guest seemed a little disappointed when she realized the disco was closed to its usual clientele, “I was looking forward to seeing the boys, too.” she lamented.

At $300 a head, the dinner party ultimately cost a whopping $150,000. The theme was the classic contrast of black and gold, which reflected the fragrance’s colors and everything and everyone, including the guests was lavishly adorned in the signature colors. In the center of the ground floor was a platform illuminated with a spotlight with its very own guest of honour. On this so-called altar stood a 64 ounce replica bottle of Magie Noire perfume.

The extravagant tablescapes were a study in baroque, black and gold cigarettes, black and gold seating chips, black balloons overhead which Kennedy said “make the space less cavernous..and they don’t look childish in black...they appear more elegant, architectural”.

At the end of cocktail hour, butlers approached the guests with exotic floral arrangements hiding ten jumbo tempura shrimp. Amongst the glittering crystal goblets of champagne, golden caviar was heaped upon seashells richly lacquered in black, while resting upon shimmering gilded galax leaves. All catered by the Gordons.

According to Joan Kennedy, the Magie Noire fragrance symbolizes luxury and “not peas and carrots” so it was important not to use every day boring foods one might find at a diner or at home. She went on to say that “For a Wall Street firm, the caterers we used would be too glittery, but with their astounding table decorations, they were perfect for Magie Noire. After all, this is fashion.”

Picking up on the black magic theme, black and gold clad “gypsies” milled around the gala and told fortunes, read palms, analyzed handwriting, read faces and examined tarot cards. Exclusive party favors, unique black and gold lacquered minaudieres, designed by Rafael Sanchez were given to the ladies of the fashion press.

Towards the end of the evening, while guests were busy waltzing on the dance floor, Billy Daniels sang the standard “That Old Black Magic” as the ceiling seemed to open, revealing a huge model of the Magie Noire label, which floated down. Following this spectacle, the words "Magie Noire" and photos of the fragrance were projected onto the massive dome overhead, revolving at increasing speed, making the room seem as if it were spinning, while guests applauded the guest of honor, the perfume of Magie Noire.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a crisp oriental fragrance for women. Magie Noire, combines romantic florals, sensual woods, warm sophisticated spices, amber and fresh greens.

Top notes of cassia, Bulgarian rose, hyacinth, raspberry, bergamot, blackcurrant and galbanum
Middle notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, St John’s wort, narcissus, orris, cedar, lily of the valley, tuberose and honey
Base notes of musk, vetiver, civet, myrrh, spices, patchouli, frankincense, sandalwood, labdanum, oakmoss and amber

Bottles:

The throat of the teardrop flacon, designed by Pierre Dinand in 1978, is ringed with stripes of amber, wine, and black, with a package covered with arcane alchemical symbols. The bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval with plastic components supplied by both MBF Plastiques and AMS.

Le Spray Magique: a one-third fluid ounce, refillable, Magie Noire Parfum Purse Spray, cast in fluted- gold metal.

In 1987, a beautiful set was released for holiday gift giving. Le Collier Magique, a triangular scarf of slinky, gleaming gold mesh to drape a glamourous neckline was packaged with a fluted gold metal refillable spray of Magie Noire Eau de Toilette. Retailed for $60.

In 1988, an exclusive Lancome, Paris showstopper was introduced for the holiday season. The Cristal Noire Necklace, three sparkling strands of European crystal-cut beads in jet black with a custom clasp. Magnificently wrapped with a 1/3 oz Magie Noire Parfum Spray in a silvertone purse atomizer. Retailed for $65.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Magie Noire Eau de Toilette was reformulated in 2007 and relaunched in new packaging. A reformulation of the eau de parfum was made in 2008.

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Midnight Poison by Christian Dior: created by Jacques Cavallier and Olivier Cresp of Firmenich in collaboration with Francois Demachy of LVMH in 2007.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody chypre fragrance for women.

Top notes: mandarin and bergamot
Middle notes: black rose
Base notes: patchouli, amber and French vanilla

Fate of the Fragrance:

Midnight Poison appears to have had a reformulation around 2011. The original bottles have silver toned collars, on the reformulated bottles, the collar is gold toned.

Unfortunately, Midnight Poison was discontinued in December of 2013.

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Bambou by Weil: launched in 1934.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody oriental fragrance for women.

Top notes: lavender and mandarin orange
Middle notes: ylang ylang, tuberose, jasmine, rose, carnation, lily of the valley
Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, cedar, musk, tonka bean, sandalwood

Bottles:

Chemist & Druggist - Volume 124, 1936:

"Parfums Weil of Paris. ... Ltd., 27 Old Bond Street, London, W.i. The series of perfumes issued by this firm includes Cassandra, which is a. new variety, as well as their other perfumes, Zibeline, Bambou , Chinchilla, Hermine and Une Fleur."

Country Life - Volume 83, 1938:

"A really good perfume is very new. Its creator makes to express a personality - that of a woman, gay, tender or dazzling, the ingenue and witty woman, the elegante who dresses in Paris, the woman who looks superb. All this and more can he said of the perfumes of Weil of Paris, among whose distinguished odours are Zibeline, Cassandra, Bambou.. ...Producers of only the best, Parfums Weil have recently introduced their Bambou Lipsticks, which are imported from America, the home of the best cosmetics, and made by their New York house. "

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Reformulated and relaunched in 1964. It was also reformulated by Daniel Moliere and relaunched in 1984.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.

Top notes: mandarin orange
Middle notes: ylang ylang, tuberose, jasmine, rose
Base notes: bamboo accord, oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood

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Commercial bottles made up of pink glass are quite uncommon and command high prices when found. The rarest of these bottles are the stunning opaque pink crystal examples manufactured by Baccarat in the 1920s and 1930s. Baccarat enjoyed pairing the bubble gum pink glass with silver gilt trim, which for the era, was probably very avant garde and modern. To further enhance the bottles and to give them an air of luxury, enameled stopper covers were often added to the bottles.

Sourire de France by Fontanis: Launched in 1926 and presented in a gorgeous bubblegum pink rectangular crystal bottle trimmed with silver overlay enamel. The inner glass stopper is covered by a sterling silver overcap featuring a pink guilloche enamel panel. The name "Sourire de France" is engraved on the front of the bottle. The base has the Baccarat acid mark. The bottle stands 3.25" tall x 1" wide x 3.5" long.

Astris by LT Piver: This beautiful pink crystal bottle was created in 1927 and produced by Baccarat. The bottle features a star shaped silver gilt detail, with the perfume name molded in the center. The stopper has a step shape and is enhanced with silver gilt trim. The base has the Baccarat acid mark. The bottle stands 4.25" tall. Sold for $2,700 at auction in 2011.

Pois de Senteur by Miga: Introduced in 1932, Baccarat created this desirable perfume bottle of opaque pink crystal featuring a molded and textured recessed surface design of a stylized floral motif. A rectangular pink glass stopper completes the presentation. The gilded foil paper label is affixed along the side of the bottle. The base features the Baccarat mark. The bottle stands 4" tall. Sold for $2,600 at auction in 2014.

Hantise by A. Gravier: launched in 1912, this extremely rare Baccarat bottle is made of opaque pink crystal is enhanced with gilt silver decoration of stylized floral and scale type motifs. It rests on a circular brass foot and has a high domed brass overcap covering a glass inner stopper. The bottle stands 4.5" tall. Sold for $2,800 at auction in 2015.

Le Parfum FF by Forvil: Launched in 1927, this perfume was presented in an opaque pink crystal Baccarat perfume bottle. The bottle features a molded label, silver gilt detail, and is topped by an enameled metal overcap that covers a glass inner stopper. The base displays the Baccarat acid mark. The bottle stands 2.75" tall. Sold for $1,800 at auction in 2015.

Desir du Coeur by Ybry: launched in 1926. Baccarat produced this interesting Art Deco perfume bottle of pink cased crystal, in a rectangular shape. Curiously, the stopper is jauntily placed at a corner, and is covered by a enameled metal cover. The lovely presentation box is adorned with glass pendant by Rene Lalique and ends in a silken tassel. Bottle stands 4 1/8" tall.

1000 Joies by Myon: Launched in 1928. This bottle shape is one of the most commonly found of the Myon perfumes. Produced by master craftsman at the Baccarat glassworks, this flacon is made up of opaque overlaid crystal and is in the shape of a stylized angular Chinese ginger jar, a reflection of the Orientalism theme during the Roaring Twenties. The bottle usually features an enameled brass label (missing on the example shown). An inner glass stopper is covered with a gilded brass cover. Original boxes are rare to find and add to the value.

“XII” by Delettrez: Launched in 1927 and presented in a fabulous Baccarat bottle of molded pink opaque glass, in a narrow upright rectangular form. It has a molded oblong shaped stopper, a small round gold paper hang tag label, and is complete with it's original hand-painted box. The base is marked with the Baccarat acid stamp. 4.5" tall. As a result it's first appearance on the market this extremely rare bottle sold for $24,000 at auction in 2009.

If you have photos of any other pink glass commercial perfume bottles, please let me know so I can add them here, credit will be given for any submissions.

Dans la Nuit by Worth: (In the Night) launched in 1922 in France, it was available in a wider distribution in 1924. This was Worth's signature fragrance; created by Maurice Blanchet; it was initially a gift to distinguished clientele of the fashion house. The perfume’s production was halted during WW2, it didn’t reach counters on US shores again until 1953.

c1926 Franklin Simon ad.

Dans la Nuit was available as parfum extrait, eau de toilette, face powder, face powder compact, eau de toilette, talc, bath oil, dusting powder and soap.

The Spatula, 1922:

"Dans La Nuit. Societe Worth, Paris, France."

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1938:

"Worth's eau de Cologne (distributed in U. S. by Al Rosenfeld, Inc.) comes in the Dans La Nuit and Je Reviens fragrances, in four sizes of crystal-clear Lalique bottles. The fragrances are very similar to the perfumes."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.

Top notes: aldehydes, camellia, blackcurrant and berries
Middle notes: jasmine, rose, tuberose and iris
Base notes: orris, ambergris, musk, cistus labdanum, vetiver and sandalwood

Bottles:

Originally presented in an orb shaped Art Deco-styled flacon, known as the boule, made by René Lalique et Cie. The earliest design for the stopper was a disc with an eclipsed moon of crystal-polished glass in bas-relief against a cobalt-stained sky filled with raised, crystal-polished stars. This style stopper was available from the mid-1920's through the mid-1930's, when it was discontinued due to an allegation of trademark infringement. Proctor & Gamble had objected that the star-moon motif was too similar to its Ivory soap logo.

From the mid-30's on, the boule was issued with a stopper featuring the eclipsed moon and, in lieu of stars, the perfume name Dans la Nuit rendered in a lowercase calligraphic font.

The Rene Lalique et Cie 'model register' mentions the DLN boule model on March 29, 1924. On Jan. 20, 1926, a one-ounce boule is recorded, and after Nov 22, 1929, the one-ounce boule was produced with both stopper styles. However, a photo of the boule with the 'dans la nuit calligraphic' stopper, and it is dated 'after 1925'.

The boule was rendered in a number of sizes. On October 5, 1938 there is a notation that a Dans la Nuit perfume boule was produced in a size of 9.8 inches. The 9.8 inch boule had the 'dans la nuit' stopper.

Also presented in electric blue glass and two sizes of flattened spherical smokey blue glass bottles with turquoise plastic stoppers, various molded marks of Lalique.

photo by Bonham's

1928 ad showing the atomizer flacon

c1940? photo by ebay seller lightofthemoon

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown, still being sold in 1975.

Reformulations

Dans la Nuit was reformulated in 1985 and relaunched in 1986, for the 50th anniversary of the launch of this perfume, then discontinued and relaunched in 2000.

The reformulation's composition:

Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, violet, bergamot and lemon
Middle notes: carnation, cinnamon, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, civet, vanilla and vetiver

For the 1986 relaunch, the perfume was presented in a replica of the original 1924 Lalique molded glass Worth perfume flacon, the spherical clear glass body was molded in low relief with stars, enameled with a satinized (chalky like) blue finish; supporting a flattened circular stopper molded with a crescent moon. The bottle holds 350ml and is the largest size bottle Lalique made for this perfume. This bottle originally retailed for $300 (1,500 French francs) in 1986. When you find this bottle, it will be marked “French Bottle” and “Creation R. Lalique”, also inscribed with number on the bottom, which should correspond to the number inscribed on the base of the stopper.

Additional information used in this guide courtesy of:

The Art of Rene Lalique: Flacons et Powder Boxes by Christie Mayer Lefkowith
The Art of Perfume by Christie Mayer Lefkowith
Lalique Perfume Bottles by Glenn & Mary Lou Utt
Collector's Weekly website

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Si by Schiaparelli: launched in 1957. "Si" got its name from the "Valse des Si." dedicated to her by composer Henri Sauguet. "Si" can mean both the musical note B and "it"— it also consists of the first and last letters of Schiaparelli). The perfume is also said to be from Juliette Greco's song "Si".

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a heavy, piquant floral oriental perfume. I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.

Top notes:
Middle notes: floral notes
Base notes: ambrette, vanilla, musk, amber, patchouli, myrrh, sandalwood

Billboard, 1957:

"Juliette Greco's new one, Si, will enjoy all-out promotional tie-ins with "Si," Schiaparelli's new perfume, in all stores carrying the Schiaparelli line, in radio stations, and in record stores."

Réalités, 1958:

"Schiaparelli's new perfume "Si" got its name from the "Valse des Si." dedicated to her by composer Henri Sauguet. "Si" can mean both the musical note B and "it"— it also consists of the first and last letters of Schiaparelli). It's scent is heavy, flowery and distinguished and comes in a bottle like a gilded column wrapped in a leaf of sheet music which is inscribed with the melody of the waltz, of course. "

Fodor's France, 1958:

"Schiaparelli...Meanwhile, there's a new one, "Si," which the French describe as "violent." Better Si for yourself."

Paris Personal, 1963:

""Si by Schiaparelli. Exceptionally good for brunettes. This is a very piquant perfume, and terribly sexy. At first contact, it is too screaming and violent. However, it assimilates so well that in a few minutes you think it had been born in the skin."

Bottles:

Presented in a gilded figural bottle representing a chianti flacon sealed with red wax.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

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Trésor by Lancôme: launched in 1952. The name means "Treasure" in French.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is a semi-oriental floral fragrance for women.

Top notes: rose, lilac and lily of the valley
Heart notes: spices, orange blossom, peach and apricot
Base notes: green leaves, resins, balm, sandalwood, cedar, amber and musk

It was available in Parfum, Cologne and Eau Parfumee.

Bottles:

Tresor's parfum was presented in an inverted pyramid flacon, brilliantly faceted like a huge diamond, made to be held in one's hand, designed by Areca of Style Marque. This deluxe flacon, known as "Le Diamant", was promoted around Christmastime and retailed for $70 in 1953.

Harper's Bazaar, 1953:

"Lancome's new "Tresor," just landed from France, is treasured in a bottle like a great dark diamond."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in the 1960s.

Trésor by Lancôme was reformulated by Sophia Grojsman of IFF and relaunched in 1990. It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

Top notes: pineapple, lilac, peach, apricot blossom, lily-of-the-valley, bergamot, rose
Middle notes: iris, jasmine, heliotrope, rose
Base notes: orris, apricot, sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla, peach

Presented in the new styled bottle shown below.

Trésor by Lancôme Eau Parfumee: launched in 1990
Trésor by Lancôme Eau de Toilette: launched in 1990
Trésor by Lancôme Eau Fraicheur: launched in 1990

Flankers & Limited Editions:

2006 Trésor Sheer Rose/Tresor Rose D'Amour. Limited edition. The juice was reworked to highlight the rose ingredient. There was a rose engraving on the packaging, and a ring around the cap.

2006 Trésor Eau de Printemps Sheer Fragrance, launched as a limited edition. Created by Dominique Ropion. Top notes are clementine, litchi, red currant and black currant; middle notes are peach blossom, rose ,camellia and lily-of-the-valley; base notes are sandalwood, musk and vanilla.Discontinued.

2007 Trésor Eau Etincelante (Trésor Sparkling). A limited edition edt created by Sophia Grojsman and Aliénor Massenet. Top notes: pear, pink pepper and bergamot; middle notes: rose otto and violet; base notes: sandalwood, musk, heliotrope, labdanum and incense. Presented in a 45 ml bottle. Discontinued.

2007 Trésor Elixir. Top notes are violet and peach; middle notes are honey, bulgarian rose, heliotrope and cedar; base notes are sandalwood, musk, vanilla and vetiver. Discontinued.

2008 Tresor Eau Legere Sheer. Top notes are bergamot and peach; middle notes are rose and freesia; base notes are sandalwood and patchouli.

2009 Trésor Lancôme, a flanker to 'Trésor' with additional notes of bergamot, white pepper and freesia accord

2010 Trésor Diamant Noir. Launched to celebrate Trésor’s 20th anniversary. A limited edition bottle of 20 numbered bottles featuring a hematite cap and a ring of black crystals around the neck.

2010 Trésor In Love. Created by Dominique Ropion and Véronique Nyberg. Top notes: nectarine, bergamot, peach and sour pear; middle notes: Turkish rose, violet and jasmine; base notes: cedar. 30, 50 and 75 ml flacons.

2011 Tresor Edition Limitee Fete des Meres. A limited edition bottle, no change in scent.

2011 Trésor L’Absolu Desir. An edp created by Dominique Ropion with notes of rose, jasmine, cedar and vanilla. Presented in a 45ml EDP bottle.

2011 Trésor Midnight Rose. Created by Anne Flipo. Top notes: raspberry, rose absolute; middle notes: jasmine, peony, currant buds, pink pepper; base notes: Virginia cedar, musk and vanilla

2012 Tresor In Love La Coquette Limited Edition. Created by Dominique Ropion and Veronique Nyberg. Top notes are bergamot, pink pepper, pear and nectarine; middle notes are jasmine, rose, violet and peach; base notes are musk and virginia cedar.

2012 Tresor Midnight Rose La Coquette Limited Edition. Top notes are rose and raspberry; middle notes are cassis, peony, jasmine and pink pepper; base notes are musk, virginia cedar and vanilla.

2013 Trésor Midnight Rose in the Love edition. Note the thorns on the “stem".

2013 Tresor L'Absolu. Top notes are damask rose and aromatic spices; middle notes are rose, jasmine and patchouli; base notes are benzoin, vanilla and leather.

2013 Tresor Eau de Parfum Lumineuse. Created by Dominique Ropion. Top note is praline; middle notes are damask rose and violet leaf; base notes are vanilla, musk, woody notes and sandalwood.

2014 Tresor L'Eau de Toilette. Created by Dominique Ropion. Top notes are bergamot and peach; middle notes are damask rose, violet, sandalwood, heliotrope and Egyptian jasmine; base notes are milk, musk, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean and nutmeg.

2015 La Nuit Tresor. Created by Christophe Raynaud and Amandine Marie. Top notes: pear. Middle notes: Tahitian vanilla orchid absolute and black rose. Base notes: patchouli, papyrus, incense, litchi and praline. 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

2015 Tresor Midnight Rose Elixir D’Orient. Created by Anne Filipo. Top notes: raspberry, black currant and pink pepper. Middle notes: rose, jasmine and peony. Base notes; vanilla, patchouli, cedar and oud. 75 ml Eau de Parfum.

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