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Intimate by Revlon c1955

December 28, 2015, 9:55 pm
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Intimate by Revlon: launched in 1955, created by IFF.



Intimate relied heavily on sexually provocative advertisement for its marketing strategy. Some ad copies portray the sexiness of the perfume such as the following:

"INTIMATE by REVLON. If You've Got the Right Idea" the ad features a sensuous-looking woman with bedroom eyes and a come-hither look..."We've Got the Right Fragrance ..Get Intimate."
"For personal reasons, I cant explain why I use intimate" states a coy and alluring, beautiful young woman "But I do use Intimate, for personal reasons."

1955 advertisement introducing Intimate by Revlon.
"Even in the dark...he'll know its you....Intimate...the fabulous new American fragrance that even French women are talking about! Intimate never shouts, but oh! how it whispers. Give it for Christmas (see that you get it, too!) $2.00 and $3.59 plus tax." 

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a mild, spicy floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by a woody floral heart, resting on a warm, sensual mossy base. Classy and elegant with an animalic zing which is a combination of amber, castoreum, musk and civet.

The perfume notes for the original perfume are:
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, rose, gardenia, coriander
  • Heart notes: jasmine, orris, patchouli, sandalwood, cedarwood
  • Base notes: amber, castoreum, civet, oakmoss, musk

Intimate was available in the following forms:
  • Parfum
  • Spray Mist (Eau de Toilette)
  • Eau de Toilette
  • Eau de Cologne
  • Solid Perfume
  • Foaming Bath Oil
  • Bath Oil
  • Creamy Milk Bath
  • Body Lotion
  • Dusting Powder
  • Talcum Powder
  • Cooling Spray Bath Powder

In a 1963 advertisement introduces the Intimate Spray Mist, offered for $3.50.

1965 ad

In 1965, the  Eau de Toilette Spray Mist line introduced the gold filigree cases, the tear drop  glass decanters and the diamond faceted glass spray bottle. The Parfum was housed in a square glass bottle with glass stopper.  The Silk of Intimate, a rich, frosted lotion was also introduced alongside the Moisture Lotion, Dusting Powder with lambswool puff, Milk Bath, and the Cooling Spray Powder. The Perfume Oil was housed in a rectangular glass bottle with a gilded square label.




The "Intimate Best Dressed Collection" was launched for Spring 1970. The boxes sport a fabulous floral pattern and a genuine macrame yarn bows on the front. Very hippie chic. Another design was the red and white striped boxes.

Included in the following products:

  • The Best Dressed Sprays. This shiny ready-t-o-go case has two tote-able Intimate Sprays. The Ovalesque Eau de Toilette and Cooling Spray Bath Powder. 
  • The Couture Case. This Intimate gathering is replete with Eau de Toilette Spray, Eau de Toilette Perfume Oil, and Eau de Toilette. This is the kind of fashion that fits the mood, the mode..everyone's fancy.
  • The Designer Collection. This is the grand ensemble of Intimate Eau de Toilette Spray, Eau de Toilette, Foaming Bath Oil, and two cakes of Intimate guest soaps.
  • Perfume. The most precious and richly concentrated form of Intimate. Created, bottled, and sealed in France.
  • Spray Mist. Eau de Toilette to spray on easily...extravagantly. It is a perfect, yet softer variation of Intimate perfume.
  • Eau de Toilette. A subtle form of Intimate. Gives hours of delicious wearing pleasure.
  • Powdered Intimate. This fragrant, super-sifted powder comes your way two  separate ways. Via Cooling Spray Bath Powder. A cooling, air-soft powder in an aerosol.
  • And Perfumed Dusting Powder to smooth on lavishly with its own super-sized, super-soft puff.
  • Creamy Milk Bath. A precious pink-powder that transforms your bath into a creamy, marvelously scented froth. Treats your skin lovingly...leaves it scented, relaxed and smooth.
  • Foaming Bath Oil. A precious golden liquid, rich with Intimate and all soothing qualities of a bath oil. When it touches tub-water, this liquid luxury billows into a bath-full of scented, silky bubbles.
  • The Ovalesque Spray. The shape of tomorrow. This elegant slimline spray - with a mock tortoise cap, and an elegant crystally fluted bottle - brims with the liquid refreshment of Intimate eau de Toilette. There's a mini -size to tuck into pocket or purse. And a large size to spray at home.


From a 1971 ad:
"REVLON INTIMATE TEAR DROP SPRAY . Intimate, one of the world's great fragrances, is a tender compliment to any woman in this beautiful tear drop spray bottle and exciting gift box.2.25 oz, $3.50"


Fate of the Fragrance:


Revlon's Intimate was still being sold in 1980, in a natural atomizer concentrated cologne version, which "Reflects the grace and spirit of the Orient. 2 oz $4.75, a $9.25 value."


At some point "Intimate" was discontinued, but was later resuscitated by the house of Jean Philippe in 1987. Jean Philippe acquired the worldwide trademark for the Intimate fragrance lines from Revlon but not the formula.

The new reformulated Intimate by Jean Phillipe contains notes of:
  • dewberry, mandarin blossom, water lily
  • cinnamon, linden flower, tuberose, blue rose
  • bark, amber, musk and incense. 

The success of Intimate spawned a few flankers: Intimate Musk, Intimate Light, and Intimate Red.



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Arpege by Lanvin c1927

December 31, 2015, 12:57 am
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Arpege by Lanvin: launched in 1927. Created by André Fraysse and Paul Vacher. Named after the musical term ‘arpeggio’ in honour of Jeanne Lanvin’s only daughter Marie-Blanche, a talented pianist.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was created with over 60 natural ingredients and is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.
  • Top notes of aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, coriander, clove and peach
  • Heart notes of Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, camellia and lily of the valley
  • Base notes of ambergris, benzoin, musk, sandalwood and vetiver

Bottles:

Presented in a black Art Deco spherical flacon with gilded decoration (known as the Flacon Boule) designed by Armand-Albert Rateau and made by Verrières Brosse. A rare example is clear crystal with gilding. The earlier bottles have the gilded raspberry/pine cone shaped stopper, later examples have a gilded and ribbed spherical stopper.




A limited edition was created by Sevres in 1927. This rare Boule bottle model "blue ball" in blue enameled  Sevres porcelain, decorated in gold, accented with gold collar, with its gilded raspberry stopper. Monogrammed and dated November 1927. Stands: 9 cm tall. Photo by Drouot.

Other bottles are the square or rectangular clear glass bottles, known as the Flacon Carre, with the black glass, bakelite or black plastic stopper molded or cut intaglio with the Lanvin mother/daughter logo. These were created in 1932 and were still being sold in 1980.

In 1937, Lanvin face powder debuts.

In 1938, Eau de Lanvin and Eau de Cologne was launched in octagonal, ribbed crystal bottles.

In 1949, the Lanvinette, a gold tone purse flacon, designed by Cartier and holding 1/8 oz perfume was launched, it was often given as a gift with purchase.

Many people are not aware that the Eau de Lanvin is a toilet water/eau de toilette and that perfume is called an extrait.

In 1950, the Traveler flacon was launched, holding 1 1/3 ounces of precious "Arpege" in Eau de Lanvin, is a cylindrical gold metal bottle, it is  the big sister to the Lanvinette flacon. (these were still being sold in 1976)

In 1953, the black and gold purse flacons were introduced.

Curiously in 1957, ---"Thought you would like to know that for the first time in automotive history the exciting and elegant Cadillac Brougham (which sells for $12,000) will come equipped with Lanvin's one ounce perfume in the atomizer bottle." This is fitted in the armrest of the car and is standard equipment - so here again is another first for Lanvin. Sincerely, Peter Fink.” The atomizer was especially designed by STEP for the House of Lanvin, it is only operational when inverted, is completely leak proof and spill proof. It will hold $25 worth of Arpege, and along with all of the other appurtenances will be standard, not optional  equipment.

In 1962, Arpege Perfume Mist (200 metered sprays, refillable) and the Arpege Spray Mist (1000 metered sprays, refillable), were introduced.

In 1963, the Arpege Natural Spray was introduced, in parfum and Eau de Lanvin. "It's all Arpege. No wonder Arpege Natural Spray lasts long after aerosol fragrances have been used up. No wonder Lanvin dares to bring it to you in a crystal clear flacon, so you can see exactly what you're paying for. Won't leak, won't spill — but it will refill."

In 1965, A Veil of Arpege, a fluffy lotion emollient, was launched. The boule bottle and square cut flacon were still being used. Still being sold in 1987.

In 1971, Eau Arpege/Eau de Arpege was launched this was sold until around 1989. A line of bath and after bath preparations were also launched during this year.

In 1977, Arpege Bath and Fragrance Oil was introduced, it was a metered aerosol spray of perfume, meant to be sprayed onto the body and not in the tub.

In 1982, the return of the black boule flacon was launched (though it was available before 1982, but in very limited numbers), since then, all of the Arpege fragrances can be found in this form, as an atomizer for the eau de toilette.

In 1987, Arpege Eau de Parfum (as L'Eau de Parfum Arpege) was released, presented in the black boule flacon. Lanvin wanted the new formulation to “make an art statement. Serge Mansau designed the vaporizer and he understood beautifully what we wanted. He looked back in Lanvin's tradition and re-interpreted the famous black ball bottle of Arpege in a modernized flacon.

In 1992, Relance d'Arpege was released, a reformulation of the original perfume.





Unknown limited edition, ARPEGE bottle limited to 1560 copies,  glass bottle entirely decorated with gold. H: 6.5 cm, dates to 1990s.


This was reformulated in 1993 by Hubert Fraysse.  Also in 1993, Eau Arpege was relaunched.

From 1998, Jardin D'Or (Golden Garden), designed by Pascal Mourgue, limited edition of just 1500 copies.

After 1998, more limited editions followed. The juice remains the same, only the bottle is different for all of these limited edition collector bottles.

In 1999, Arpege was sold in a limited edition "Grand Deluxe Edition" published in 499 copies, created and designed by Mansau: Presented in its modernist cardboard box wrapped in glossy black paper and yellow embossed siglé and titled, bottle sculpture colorless crystal solid rectangular cubic etched sandblasted on one side of the symbol of the house decor, gold banded collar, pearl gold lacquered cap, set in a frame of black plexiglass and brass. Stands 15.5 cm tall.

In 1999, Olivier Gagnère designed a limited edition parfum bottle for Arpege, called Arpege Intimite (Privacy), it was made up of blue and gold. It was a limited edition of just 2000 copies.


Also in 1999, Reflets D'Or (Golden Reflection), limited edition of just 3500 copies, designed by Van Lith, in clear glass covered in gilding.

Nuee d'Or (Golden Cloud), limited edition of only 2500 copies, black glass with powdery gilding, created by Van Lith.

From 2000, Reve Bleu (Blue Dream), a limited edition of just 700 copies,designed by Eric Halley, the bottle had blue feathers adorning the flacon.


Sortilege (Spell or Hex), created by Hervé van der Straeten, limited edition of just 2000 copies.

Limited edition eau de parfum, 50ml, age unknown.




In 2005, a version of the Arpege Extrait was released.

In 2006, a reformulation of the original 1927 fragrance was launched which resulted in a sweet floral fragrance, contains more than 60 rare and precious flowers. Presented in a 100 ml black 'Arpège' bottle.

In October 2009, to celebrate their 120th anniversary,  a limited edition of Arpège in 50 or 100 ml Eau de Parfum was released along with sketches by designer Alber Elbaz on the outer box.


In 2013, a minaudière celebrating the 85th anniversary of Arpège parfum was released. Made in Italy of resin molded in the shape of the Arpège bottle, with gold-tone hardware, chain handle and push-button closure.




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André Chapus

December 31, 2015, 8:42 am
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André Chapus, 11 bis Avenue Mac-Mahon, Paris,, launched a range of perfumes and cosmetics in the 1940s.
André Chapus, 11 bis Avenue Mac-Mahon, Paris,, launched a range of perfumes and cosmetics in the 1940s.













The perfumes of André Chapus:
  • Ambre
  • 1944 Fievres
  • 1945 Divinite
  • 1946 Douchka -Cuir de Russie

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HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

December 31, 2015, 10:04 am
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Directoire by Charles of the Ritz c1946

January 4, 2016, 9:34 am
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Directoire by Charles of the Ritz: launched in 1946.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, citrus
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, carnation
  • Base notes: amber, civet, musk, vanilla, sandalwood

Bottles:


The parfum was housed in a beautiful deluxe crystal flacon in the shape of an urn resting on a pedestal. The gold lettering on front of the pedestal read "Charles of the Ritz N.Y. 3/8 fl oz." The other side says "Directoire".  The. flat, polished base is acid stamped with "Made in France" inside a diamond. The bottle stands 4 1/2"" tall by 1 1/4" wide.




Other bottles were used for Directoire, especially a fabulous three sides obelisk type bottle with faceted edges that holds 3 1/4 oz of toilet water and stands 6 1/2" tall.

Floreal, a type of cologne was available in a splash and an atomizer. The Directoire Body & Bath Perfume as well as the Toilet Water was also available in a spray.






Directoire was also available in dusting powder, perfumed soap, bath salts and body lotion. A particularly nice dusting powder box, round, with gilded images around the sides, holds a super soft swansdown powder puff.





Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.





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Halston

January 4, 2016, 5:36 pm
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Halston (pronounced HALL'-STON).

Established by fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick (1932-1990) in Des Moines; started as a milliner. There is tons of info on Halston online, so I won't go into that here, but I will concentrate on his fragrances.

Halston is best known for Halston for Women, launched in 1974, was the first fragrance designed by the very same man who created Jackie Kennedy's internationally famous pillbox hat. A pretty, intricate, interesting fragrance, it came in a revolutionary asymmetrical bottle designed by Halston and Elsa Peretti (the noted jewelry designed for Tiffany).


The Bulletin, 1989:
"At their peak, the Halston fragrances alone were reported to make an estimated $80 million a year."


Halston's fragrance lines were owned by various companies over the years. To help clear up confusion, I have created a handy timeline to help date your bottles.


Halston Fragrances Timeline:

  • 1974 Halston Fragrances, Inc. was created.
  • 1983 Halston Fragrances was licensed to JC Penney and was a division of Playtex International.
  • 1986 Halston Fragrances, Inc was acquired by the Revlon Group and fragrances were reformulated. 
  • 1987 Halston Fragrances are now marketed under Revlon's Prestige Fragrances, Ltd. Division. These items will be marked with "HALSTON ® ©Prestige Fragrances, Ltd. Dist. New York"
  • 1991 Both the Halston and Princess Marcella Borghese lines were acquired by Saudi Arabian investors, four unnamed brothers who formed a new company called Halston Borghese International Ltd, in 1992. Fragrances were most likely reformulated. These items will be marketed with the following "Made for © Halston Fragrances New York, New York, 10153. London" Other times you may find the words "Halston Enterprises, Inc.", "Halston Fragrances, Distr. New York, New York 10036."
  • 1996 The Halston fragrances were acquired by French Fragrances and reformulated. These fragrances will be marketed under the "French Fragrances, Inc," name. You may also see it worded as "FFI Fragrance International Inc."
  • 1999 French Fragrances acquired Unilever's Elizabeth Arden.
  • 2001 French Fragrances changes its name to Elizabeth Arden, Inc. and reformulated fragrances again will be marked with "EA Fragrances Co."
  • 2008 brand relaunched with updated fragrances.


Fragrances:

  • 1974 Halston For Women (Halston Classic)
  • 1974 Halston Z-14
  • 1976 Halston 1-12
  • 1980 Halston Night
  • 1983 Halston 101
  • 1987 Halston Couture
  • 1987 Halston Limited
  • 1993 Catalyst
  • 1994 Catalyst for Men
  • 1998 Halston Sheer 
  • 1998 Halston Z
  • 2001 Unbound
  • 2002 Unbound for Men
  • 2009 Halston Man
  • 2009 Halston Woman
  • 2010 Halston Man Amber
  • 2010 Halston Woman Amber



 






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Courant by Helena Rubinstein c1972

January 8, 2016, 1:40 am
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Courant by Helena Rubinstein: launched in 1972. Created by Max Gavarry. Courant was reportedly formulated to change with a woman's body temperature.



Courant was available in the following forms:
  • Parfum
  • Eau de Parfum
  • Eau de Toilette
  • Dusting Powder

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh spicy top, followed by a precious floral heart, layered over a sweet, woody, powdery base.
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, aldehydes, marjoram, coriander, neroli
  • Middle notes: galbanum, orris, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, lily
  • Base notes: cedar, vetiver, vanilla, benzoin, oakmoss, patchouli, ambergris, labdanum, sandalwood, leather

Cosmopolitan, 1972:
"Introducing Courant The fragrance capable of expressing what a woman is capable of feeling. ... Because your feelings about anything, anytime, can change and grow and change again, we created Courant. ... New from Helena Rubinstein. So at last, here is a perfume designed by Helena Rubinstein to interest, amuse, and fortify a woman."

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1987.

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Cialenga by Balenciaga c1973

January 10, 2016, 10:14 pm
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Cialenga by Balenciaga: launched in 1973 and created by perfumer Jacques Jantzen.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft, fresh green floral chypre fragrance for women with fruity notes.
  • Top notes are citruses, black currant and green notes
  • Middle notes are iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, clove, tincture of rose and lily
  • Base notes are vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, oak moss and Virginia cedar

Cialenga was available in the following products:
  • 1/8 oz Parfum
  • 1/4 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 0.8 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1.6 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 8 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • Soap


Fate of the Fragrance:


This perfume has been discontinued for over 20 years.





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Le Parfum Ideal by Houbigant c1896

January 15, 2016, 2:09 pm
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Le Parfum Ideal was created by Houbigant by in house perfumer, Paul Parquet in 1896, but it was launched for the first time at the 1900 Worlds Fair, along with another perfume Coeur de Jeanette.



The quintessential label for Le Parfum Ideal features a Gibson Girl sniffing a flower, this label was made of gilded foil and heavily embossed.


Fragrance Composition:


Ideal was the first floral composite bouquet perfume, containing synthetic compounds of coumarin and salicylates. It’s originality made it a great success for many years. It was considered a chic and vibrant perfume with notes of rose and ylang ylang.


So what did it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: citrus, carnation
  • Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, orange blossom, jasmine
  • Base notes: tonka bean, patchouli, ambergris, musk, benzoin, sandalwood

Bottles:


The first flacon for Le Parfum Ideal was produced by Baccarat and is in their crystal apothecary style with flat topped stopper. This is a common flacon for this perfume and is found inside its floral printed cotton presentation case which was lined with canary yellow silk. Alfred Javal designed the presentation and took the idea for the box design from an Oriental carpet he has seen at Deauville.






Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, Volume 3, 1912:
"The house of Houbigant some 12 years ago, we are told, was the first to introduce the cut-glass bottle into perfumery, and to adopt an artistic style of presentation not previously attempted, the immense popularity accorded to " Parfum Ideal" being proof that a perfect perfume exquisitely- exhibited is irresistible."

From 1924-1930, Le Parfum Ideal was sold housed in a Baccarat flacon, known as the Louis XV flacon.

photo by ebay seller anteequity


Vanity Fair, 1927:
"The most successful odeurs of perfume history are Quelques Fleurs and Le Parfum Ideal, by Houbigant. These odeurs, in the Louis XV bottle designed for Houbigant by Baccarat, of Paris, are especially appropriate as gifts — each is $25.00."

The second most common bottle for Le Parfum Ideal is a tall eau de toilette flacon, made up of pressed glass, and has a frosted stopper molded with stylized flowers which echo the ones printed on the presentation case for the Baccarat flacon. Sometimes people mistake this bottle for Lalique, but this is not a Lalique creation. The bottom of the bottle will be molded with the name Houbigant and was sold in the 1920s-1930s.

Eau de Toilette c1920, photo from quirky finds


The third most common bottle is a flat, rectangular bottle with a gilded stopper, this bottle dates to the 1920s-1930s. Photo by quirky finds.


c1932 purse flacon with flip top lid, called Parfum pour le Sac

In the 1920's, Rene Lalique created a standard triangular shaped bottle for Houbigant. The bottle style had various stopper shapes and embossed designs and was used for various perfumes for Houbigant, including Le Parfum Ideal. Interestingly, these bottles were designed to fit inside a silk-lined circular box which would have originally held four bottles. This presentation was titled “Ensemble Houbigant”. These bottles and the box can be quite had to come by.



Based on the original 1920 prices using an inflation calculator, these products would cost the following in 2012 money:
  • Ideal extract would cost $48.16 to $93.50
  • Ideal toilet water would cost $82.16.
  • Ideal face powder would cost $56.66.
  • Ideal Talcum would cost $11.33.
  • Quelques Fleurs extract would cost $59.50 to $215.32.
  • Quelques Fleurs toilet water would cost $100.86.
  • Quelques Fleurs bath salts would cost $28.33.
  • Quelques Fleurs face powder would cost $70.83.
  • Quelques Fleurs talcum would cost $11.33.

In 1927, Le Parfum Ideal extract retailed for $1.75, $3.50, $6.75, and $12.50. Prices went up from what they were in 1920.

Based on the original 1927 prices using an inflation calculator, these products would cost the following in 2012 money:
  • $1.75 ($22.88)
  • $3.50 ($45.76)
  • $6.75 ($88.25)
  • $12.50 ($163.43)

Lotion Parfum Ideal, circa 1920

The fragrance was also available as a powder pressed inside of a gilded brass compact. Also available was a dusting powder infused with the perfume. In addition to parfum extrait and toilet water, other scented products included lotion (hair lotion), eau vegetable, face powder, compact rouge, bath salts, sachets, talcum powder and brilliantine for the hair.

In 1953, Houbigant launched the Le Parfum Ideal Skin Sachet, which was a concentrated, creamy, liquid made with a sachet base. This allowed the perfume to diffuse slowly and clung to the skin for hours.


Fate of the Fragrance:

Other perfume companies launched their own perfumes under the name of Ideal. Perfumeries such as Du Barry, Clermont et E Fouet, J E McBrady & Co, Ostheimer Brothers, Paul Reiger & C, Vallant and others released their versions of Ideal at different dates.

Le Parfum Ideal was discontinued by 1970, but vintage perfume bottles and powder can be found online quite regularly.

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Bullock, Ward & Co

January 16, 2016, 5:01 pm
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Bullock, Ward & Co. of Chicago, Illinois were manufacturers of soap, perfumes, pure food flavor extracts and toilet specialties. The company was established in 1899 by Thomas H. Bullock and Phillip T. Ward, and primarily dealt in the mail order business.





Perfumes:


List of known perfumes:
  • Carnation
  • Crab Apple Blossom
  • Heliotrope
  • Jockey Club
  • Lilac
  • Violet
  • White Rose



History:

Ad Sense: Devoted to the Interests of Buyers of Advertising, Volume 1905:
"Bullock, Ward & Co is another notable instance of rapid development in the mail order business. About seven years ago, with a capital of $2,000, two young men started in business with the idea that they could furnish families the supplies used in the home, such as toilet and laundry soaps, toilet preparations, perfumes, extracts, baking powder, teas, coffees, spices, etc., and offer as an inducement a valuable premium.  
Their first quarters were in a small room 20 x 30 feet, and their entire office force consisted of Messrs. Bullock & Ward and an office boy. I have watched their development and prosperity during the past six years and have called on them frequently, and about every year found them in larger quarters at a new location. Their last removal was to a large seven story building, containing over 30,000 square feet, and where they employ 150 people. Their annual sales now are nearly $1,500,000. They receive an average of nearly 500 orders every working day. They spend in postage alone over $30,000, and their advertising appropriation is over $100,000 a year . 
Mr. P.T. Ward purchased the interest of Mr. Bullock several years ago, and he is now the sole owner and executive head of this great business concern.  
In a conversation recently Mr. Ward stated that he attributed no small part of his firm's wonderful success to his consistent and persistent use of the advertising pages of the mail order papers, in which he spends over $100,000 a year. There is no doubt, however, that while this advertising started this business and started it quickly along the road to success, also that it continues to inject into it the necessary new lifeblood from day to day and from month to month that every business that is not dead or dying requires, yet it could never have been established on its firm and permanent foundation had it not been backed up by a strict adherence first, last, and all the time to two mottoes that are emblazoned all over their catalogues and printed matter: the first is, "The greatest possible value always for the least amount of money," and the second is. "We never consider a transaction settled till our customer is fully satisfied." Mr. Ward is a firm believer with President Roosevelt in the theory, "A square deal for every man."

Printer's Ink, 1904:
"Five years ago the firm of Bullock, Ward & Co began a mail order business in Chicago with $2, 000 and an idea. Their first office was a small room at $25 a month. The first month's advertising expenditure was $150. For the first six months the members of the firm handled their correspondence alone and packed all goods for shipping. 
Today this firm occupies seven floors in a large building at 60 North Desplaines street, has a force of 100 employees an advertising expenditure of more than $100,000 yearly, and is pointed out as one of the most promising mail order houses in Chicago. 
This is the shell of the story. To infer from it that success comes easily in the mail order field however would be wrong. The growth of Bullock, Ward & Co. is due to hard work and the adherence to an underlying idea that while not at all new is grounded on sound business sense. 
The two largest mail order houses in Chicago have built up their great trade by selling everything conceivable to eat drink wear and use through their catalogues. Their trade too is wholly a cash business. Bullock, Ward & Co on the contrary have confined their operations to a single line of soaps flavoring extracts and toilet requisites doing business on a credit plan. Their idea is an amplification of the well known trust scheme which has been so successful in mail order operations. 
This trust scheme consists in advertising for people who are willing to sell a few quick selling articles to friends in return for a premium. Boys and girls answer these ads in the majority of cases and receive by return mail entirely on suspicion a dozen cans of baking powder or as many shirtwaist sets. These are sold at ten cents each and when the money is returned to the advertiser the agent receives the promised premium which may be anything from a wax doll to a full jeweled engine turned double escapement solid gold watch with Mr. Ingersoll's own name on the lid. There the transaction ends usually. 
Bullock, Ward & Co. have put this trust idea on a more permanent basis. Instead of children the firm appeals to men and women and instead of seeking a single transaction based on a more or less catchy premium a lasting business relation is begun with local agents who send in regular orders for staple articles. With each ten dollars worth of soaps etc., sold by its agents the firm gives substantial articles of furniture. Furnish your home without cost is its catch line and the key to the business. Credit is freely extended inquirers for sample cases but only after further correspondence and the furnishing of reference from responsible persons in the inquirer's own locality. 
"We claim nothing new or the idea of our business," said Mr Ward, "except that we made it larger. Our success is due to the fact that we hung on through the period necessary to establish the business on a paying basis. There is no profit on the first order brought in by our advertising and wasn’t five years ago. There were no profits during our first year and we didn’t dare draw anything out the first six months. By the second year though we got our volume of business up to a point where it paid and carried the advertising. Before that the advertising was a heavy expense. It would take three years to establish such a business now conditions have grown so much harder. "
"In what respect?" 
"Well the direct returns of mail order advertising are small and in order to build up a big mail trade it is necessary to establish lasting relations with people and sell them staples. Many advertisers imagine the mail order trade is a traffic in the novelties they see advertised in mail order papers It was once on a time. Now however novelties are employed only to create interest and bring an inquiry and I doubt their value even for that. When a man comes in here with a novelty to sell we freeze up right away. The things that everybody uses every day that's the foundation of the large mail order house. It takes time to get through the period of inquiries and profitless orders. When repeat orders begin to come the business is on a paying basis Inquiries cost more nowadays than they did a few years ago. There is greater competition. 
"The first step in launching our firm was the writing of the first advertisement Here it is a single inch ad that ran in a small list of mail order papers. Now we use full page ads in a large list in preferred position on the outside cover when we can get it. Both Mr. Bullock and I had had experience with a house selling bicycles by mail and we thought that we knew how to go to work to advertise this proposition It seemed that good results could be secured in mediums outside the mail order papers magazines farm journals and so forth. We’ve tried them all only to come back to the mailorder journals as a permanent medium. 
"What makes them so? Well they bring replies at the lowest cost. The publications like Comfort, the Ellis list, Vickery & Hill list, Sawyer list, Woman's Magazine, Lupton's papers, etc., have a monthly circulation of at least 10 000.000 copies. That means 50 000,000 readers. Now it seems inconsistent to say that none of the magazines reach this clientele more than half the people in the United States in paying quantities so far as our own proposition is concerned. Yet it is so. We’ve spent good money to find out. There must he a good deal of duplication in the circulation of the mail order papers but I figure that they have at least 10,000,000 readers with no duplication Many of these readers take magazines farm papers religious papers etc. Yet when they consider a mail order proposition they seem to turn to the mail order papers alone. 
"We tried monthly magazines - McClure's, Everybody's, Cosmopolitan, and others. McClure's brought the greatest number of replies but even that was too costly - replies cost three times what we got them for in the mail order papers. We tried the farm papers and religious press too with the same results You’d think the farm papers would reach much the same class as the mail order journals wouldn’t you But they don’t. 
"Ours is a working proposition rather than a selling one. It appeals to people who have more time than money and who will act as local agents for our goods. Our agents are nearly all located in villages and small towns not in cities or on farms. The magazines go into cities and the agricultural papers to farms so they both miss our natural clientele. The religious papers were least profitable of all. Nine tenths of our agents are women. More than three fourths of our business is east of Chicago and nearly nine tenths east of the Mississippi River. Practically all of it comes from north of the Ohio River. We look with a little distrust on inquiries from the South as the class of people who make the best agents will not canvass down there. 
"Among the mail order journals we have got the best returns from the Lupton publications. Their rate is a trifle high but we get into good company. The kind of advertisers in a mail order paper must be considered in advertising an honest enduring proposition. Most of these publications have weeded out the swindlers and the swindler is being weeded out naturally because the profits on swindling advertisements are growing less year by year. You can’t swindle a reader more than once you know and profit lies only in lasting business relation. A few of the mail order papers we avoid however just because our advertising would appear in bad company.
 "McCall's Magazine has proved an exception to the general rule that mail papers are our only medium. We use page ads on the cover and get good returns I should class it as excellent. Another good medium that cannot be classed in the mail order field is the Ladies World. It brings us very fair returns. The Farm Journal of Philadelphia is good too as it goes into towns and villages and has a much larger circulation than any other farm paper. 
"Our business has a distinct season for advertising. Agents sell our goods all the year round and are perhaps a little more active in summer than during cold weather. But it pays to slack up on advertising in the summer months because advertisements are not so thoroughly read. People are working in their gardens and living outdoors. Not so much reading is done. Replies cost us just about twice as much in summer as in winter. But when a good organization of agents has been built up in winter it goes right on producing business. 
"There is a percentage of loss in our business through dishonest agents for we are liberal in extending credit. But it is very small - much less than with the old trust idea. By demanding references we get honest agents. On the whole people are more disposed to be honest than dishonest." 

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Vintage Boudoirs of the Stars - Part 4

January 19, 2016, 9:34 pm
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Joan Evans, c1940s-1950s, various perfumes and powder boxes on her vanity.

 Joan Fontaine, c1930s-1940s, various perfumes and goodies on her vanity.

Joan Fontaine, c1940s, various perfumes on her vanity.


Joan Crawford, c1940s, gorgeous mirror front vanity table, some treasures on the table.


Judith Barrett, c1940, various crystal bottles and an atomizer on her vanity

June Collyer, c1920s, Apollo Studios pierced brass perfume atomizer on her vanity.

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La Rose by Rochas c1949

January 24, 2016, 10:41 pm
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 La Rose by Rochas: launched in 1949. Created by Edmond Roudnitska. Reformulated by Mme Thérèse Roudnitska.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, green notes, geranium leaves, lemon, apricot
  • Middle notes: plum, Bulgarian rose, sweet pea, lily of the valley, tea rose
  • Base notes: spices, musk, amber, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood


The New Yorker, 1949:
"Rochas' La Rose has a puzzling way of seeming on one skin to be entirely rose and on another to have a trace of sweet pea, lily of the valley, or some other garden flower, with always a hint of greenery."

Harper's Bazaar, 1952:
"A gift of Roses perfume— Caron's delicate “La Fête des Roses”; Marcel Rochas' fresh-blooming “La Rose”; Patou's “Joy”—roses star-crossed with jasmine; Renoir's rich rose-noted “Futur."

Jet, 1952:
"One of the most sought after lines of French perfume in the world is now available to Americans. It is Marcel Rochas' distinctive assortment of Parisian "bouquets," each of which has wide appeal. "Femme," is the heaviest of the perfumes, and "Mousseline", a blend of jasmine, lavender and mimosa, the lightest. A more sensual perfume is "Mouche", suggestive of mosses, leaves, roots, and grasses. An exquisite fragrance called "La Rose" is described as "all rose." A perfume for men, called "Moustache," has a scent of the outdoors, -clean, crisp, windswept. These perfumes come in special gift packages designed by Rochas. Each package contains three one-quarter ounce bottles. Price: $22.50."


Realities, 1955:
"We recommend Lanvin's Arpege, Dior's Diorama and Rochas' Femme for all purposes. The French like Rochas' La Rose for aunts and Piguet's Bandit for sultry girl friends. Carven and Lanvin put out small sets of three scents for $2 to $3 per set."


House & Garden, 1970:
"La Rose, tender and true, by Marcel Rochas ($10 for one quarter of an ounce)."


Bottles: 








Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued by 1973.

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Vintage Shampoo - Yucca Dew

January 25, 2016, 3:34 am
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"ooh oooh yucca dew "

The all natural Yucca-Dew Shampoo was made by Alberto-Culver in 1972. It was very distinctive at the time for what it contained, it had the oils from the yucca plant to enrich your hair, leaving it soft, glossy and manageable. Yucca roots when pounded, produce a soapy lather suitable for shampoo. This fact has been known to certain Native Americans in the southwestern United States and Mexicans for centuries and the plant is often called soapweed or soap plant.




Yucca-Dew was available in three formulations based on the type of hair you had: normal (regular), dry or oily.o.

I believe that Yucca-Dew was discontinued around 1978.





 the green color came from plant chlorophyll



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Parfumerie Delia

January 29, 2016, 10:30 pm
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Parfums Delia of Paris, France.


Modern Perfumery Magazine, 1919


The perfumes of Parfums Delia:
  • 1938 A la Cocarde de France (originally created in 1918)




 A La Cocarde de France Eau de Cologne by M. Delia: launched in 1938.


American Druggist, Volume 97, 1938:
"Maurice Levy makes known the rediscovery of the Empress Josephine's favorite, exclusive eau de cologne, by M. Delia of Paris. Amusingly named "A la Cocarde de France," the cologne has a floral scent and is bottled in a flat crystal square with a heavy knob stopper. Use post card insert."

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, 1938:
"A new eau de cologne has been put on the market by " Delia," which is claimed to be the perfume used by Napoleon's first wife, the Empress Josephine. Certainly it has a delicate, lingering scent, and its package, an oval flask bearing a decorative label, is in itself a sufficient attraction without any reputation from by-gone years."


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Orgia by Myrurgia c1922

January 30, 2016, 9:28 pm
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Orgia by Myrurgia: launched in 1922. Myrurgia's Orgia, pronounced "orheeah", the Spanish word that signifies a profusion of things in the case of this perfume means many flowers, many lights, many loves.


Orgia was a permanent line available in the following products by 1930:
  • Parfum
  • Toilet Water
  • Face Powder
  • Face Powder Compact
  • Soap
  • Bath Soap
  • Vanishing Cream


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floriental fragrance fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, spices
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, carnation, Bulgarian rose, orange blossom
  • Base notes: cedar, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, oakmoss, patchouli, tonka bean
Sketch, 1927:
"In lovely Spain they know this well, and Spain it is that has produced ORGIA— that dreamy, subtle perfume which is the chosen fragrance of the aristocracy of Spain. Distilled essence of a thousand and one flowers ORGIA emphasizes charm."

Bottles:





Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.


Reformulated and relaunched in 1973. So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It starts off with an aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a feminine, powdery woody base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, peach and bergamot
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, orris
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, tonka bean, vetiver, benzoin, amber 


    Vogue, 1973:
    "Orgia, a recent fragrance from Myrurgia, is like a profuse display of fresh flowers, music, bright lights, Spanish artistry."

    Vogue, 1975:
    "Myrurgia's Orgia perfume, for example, now comes in Dusting Powder, Cream Perfume, plus Spray Cologne."

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    Helietta Caracciolo by Caracciolo c1981

    February 3, 2016, 8:54 am
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    Helietta Caracciolo by Caracciolo: launched in 1981.


    Fragrance Composition:



    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh, green, fruity top, followed by a radiant light floral heart, resting on a subdued, powdery floral base.
    • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, galbanum, aldehydes, fruity accord
    • Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, cyclamen, lily
    • Base notes: sandalwood, civet, musk, oakmoss



    Country Life, 1980:
    "With parties and presents in season, perfume is in the news, with new names appearing on cosmetic counters. The most exciting new scent I have tried is called Helietta, the creation of Italian Princess Helietta Caracciolo, who is already internationally known as a designer of jewellery. This small, romantically-inclined woman, who stands just 5ft 2in, has put together a heady, subtle perfume with a rich, floral bouquet that lingers on long after you have forgotten you have applied it. Blonde and very pretty, the Princess, who was born in Pisa, told me when we met how she still ...Princess Helietta has designed, in the shape of spinning tops, the fine bottle that contain her perfume, some swirled and sculptured with gold and mother of pearl and inspired by pieces of antique Murano glass owned by by the Caracciolo family. Helietta, a new perfume by Princess Helietta Caracciolo. Available at Harrods, and at Atkinson, 26 Conduit Street, Wl."


    Bottles:


    A cute presentation is the perfume pendant,  made up of a clear glass flacon imprisoned inside of a gilded cage, from which a goldtone necklace is suspended. The tiny flacon holds 9ml of parfum de toilette concentre.





    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown.




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    Jin Abe by Jin Abe c1998

    February 5, 2016, 6:02 am
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    Jin Abe by Jin Abe: launched in 1998.




    Fragrance Composition:


    So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: watermelon, mango, pineapple, and green apple
    • Middle notes: rose, violet, jasmine, and anise
    • Base notes: tonka, spices, musk, vanilla, praline, and patchouli

    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued, date unknown.


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    Chunga by Weil c1977

    February 7, 2016, 12:14 am
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    Chunga by Weil: launched in 1977.


    Fragrance Composition:



    So what does it smell like? It was described as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women.  It starts out with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a sweet sensual base.
    • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, peach
    • Middle notes: clover, jasmine, lily of the valley, linden blossom, ylang-ylang, orris
    • Base notes: orris root, amber, honey, musk, Tonka, vanilla and vetiver

    Bottles:




    Fate of the Fragrance:


    Discontinued since the 1980s.

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    Acclaim by Ciro c1950

    February 9, 2016, 9:56 pm
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    Acclaim by Ciro: launched in 1950.


    Fragrance Composition:




    So what does it smell like? It was classified as a forest blend fragrance for women.
    • Top notes: bergamot
    • Middle notes:
    • Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, ambergris, musk


    Woman's Home Companion, 1950:
    "Ciro's exciting new Acclaim perfume (l oz). $12.50."

    Pacific Drug Review, 1950:
    "ACCLAIM PERFUME Parfums Ciro, Inc. New York City, N. Y. Acclaim is the first new fragrance in nine years by this manufacturer. Packaged in bottles of classic design, priced to retail at $5."

    Motion Picture, 1951:
    "Perk up your lagging end-ol-winter ego with a new perfume. Lots of new ones have appeared —and must be worn to be appreciated. Acclaim, Ciro's first new perfume in years, is a beguiling fragrance destined to keep you in the limelight."
    The New Yorker, 1952:
    "Acclaim: She's in the spotlight, without seeking it— everything about her attracts applause and admiration. ... She certainly deserves Acclaim!, Guessing will get you nowhere! If it were ... All Ciro perfumes in several sizes."

    Fate of the Fragrance:

    Discontinued, date unknown.

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    Joya by Myrurgia c1950

    February 15, 2016, 12:30 pm
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    Joya by Myrurgia: launched in 1924.


    Fragrance Composition:


    Reformulated and relaunched in 1950.


    "Joya, means jewel and is a subtle, exciting scent that grows more beautiful as you wear it you find that you respond to its indefinable charms more and more as you wear it too, a fragrance that catches the flavor the glamour of Spain, cherished by the most distinguished women of Spain."

    So what does it smell like? It was classified as an aldehydic floral woody fragrance for women. It starts off with a fresh aldehydic top note, followed by an elegant, classic floral heart, resting on a feminine, warm balsamic base.

      • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin, lime, lemon
      • Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, rosa centifolia, orris, ylang ylang, lily, lily of the valley
      • Base notes: amber, benzoin, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, cinnamon



      Bottles:








      Fate of the Fragrance:

        Discontinued sometime in the 1980s.



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