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Lotion and Lotion Vegetales..What are they?

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Often you may come across perfume bottles simply marked 'lotion" or "locion" (when sold in Spanish speaking countries) and wondered what exactly is this so-called "lotion", it doesn't look like any lotion I have ever seen before. When we think of lotions, one immediately thinks of a thick, opaque milky fluid to be rubbed over the body, these formulas contain emollient ingredients to soften and replenish dry, flaky skin.

Some people on various perfume forums guessed that lotions were simply a sort of fortified cologne or toilet water. These lotions, also known by their full name of lotion vegetales, are simply vegetable oils impregnated by perfume oils, which are rubbed liberally onto the skin after bath, as lavish body rubs or applied to the face after shaving, these were said to be more lubricating than plain old eau de cologne or eau de toilettes. Some men also applied the lotion vegetale to their beards or mustaches.

Sometimes, these watery, alcohol based lotions were also used to condition, groom and perfume the hair and were applied in beauty salons by hairdressers. Today, if you walk into any drug store, the only lotion vegetale you may come across is the Lilac Vegetale by Ed Pinaud, which has been manufactured for over a century. A bit old fashioned, yes, but terribly tasteful.

We Moderns by Saks Fifth Avenue

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We Moderns was created expressly for Saks Fifth Avenue in 1928, other products such as face powder and bath salts were also introduced. It was sold til 1936 or so. I think the perfume bottle was made in Czechoslovakia.

The perfume name may have been inspired by the motion picture of the same name, but it appears that Saks Fifth Avenue used this phrase when advertising themselves in 1920s newspaper ads. It seemed very appropriate at the time when other department stores were introducing their own perfumes that Saks should follow with one bearing their special "nickname".

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.


Jean Dupas (1882-1964) created a lovely poster for We Moderns perfume. Photo by International Poster Center.

1928 Saks Fifth Ave. We Moderns perfume bottle and stopper, clear glass, enamel label, Bakelite cover and base, box. 4 1/4 in. photo from Perfume Bottles Auction.


The box is 5" square and 2 1/2" high. The powder has never been opened and has the unused puff. Photos from ebay seller ladyrosee

Parfums Jacques Griffe

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Jacques Griffe (b. 1917): born in Carcassonne, France; having spent three years with Vionnet, he became a master of construction, especially in handling the bias cut; established a boutique and ready-to-wear range.

Jacques Griffe was bom in Carcassonne in 1910. He started his career training with a tailor, then worked with Madeleine Vionnet for a few years before opening his own house in the 1940s. He loved strong colors and fabrics

JACQUES GRIFFE HAS HAD three direct lines of influence: (1) His mother, a talented milliner; (2) Madeleine Vion- net, from whom he learned; and (3) Captain Molyneux, whom he succeeded.

The fragrances of Jacques Griffe:
  • 1935 Norante 
  • 1949 Griffonage
  • 1953 Mistigri (spicy, warm perfume)
  • 1957 Grilou (oriental)
  • 1960 Enthousiasme 1
  • Enthousiasme 2




The New Yorker, 1955:
"Jacques Griffe's spicy Mistigri is now around in an eau de toilette; $5.50 for a four-and-a-quarter-ounce bottle, at Bonwit Teller and Lord & Taylor."

Harper's Bazaar, 1955;
""Accomplice" by Coty — a fresh stirring of the sweet and the spicy, with warm results. One ounce, S10.* Jacques Griffe's "Mistigri," gay and mischievous, named for a fabled French cat."

Cue, 1957:
"And another couturier, Jacques Griffe. is competing in the fragrance sweepstakes with Mistigri (which means "cat"!)"

The New Yorker, 1957:
"It's a fine perfume for grown women, and so is Jacques Griffe's promising new entry, Grilou (Bon wit Teller), which starts at $5.50, for a quarter ounce, and goes to $49.50, for two ounces."

Fodor's France, 1958
"Jacques Griffe. "Griffonage,""Mistigri," and "Grilou" are three notable offerings of this house; warm, tenacious, and youthful,"

Fodor's France, 1970:
 Jacques Griffe, "Griffonnage" (warm); "Mistigri" (tenacious). 

Parfums Rue Dee

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Parfums Rue Dee was located at East 30th Street, New York. They launched some fragrances starting in the early 1930s. I do not think that this company existed past WWII. their items are pretty rare.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 35, 1934:
"Rue Dee Co. Organized The Rue Dee Co. has been organized in New York to introduce a new line of perfumes. Rudolph Samuels, formerly stylist and advertising manager for Lucien Lelong, is director of the new company at 655 Fifth Avenue New York."

Printers' Ink, Volume 168, 1934:
"To Introduce New Perfumes Rudolph Samuels, former stylist and advertising manager for Lucien Lelong for eight years, is now director of the New York office at 655 Fifth Avenue, of Rue Dee Parfums. These are new perfumes which will be introduced to the American market about October 1."

The perfumes of Rue Dee:
  • 1934 Glamour
  • 1934 Ermine (a delicate, sweet spicy gardenia perfume)
  • 1934 Plaid (a flippant, perky perfume)
  • 1935 Witching Hour (very light and sweet floral)

Kéora by Parfums Jean Couturier c1983

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The perfume was named after the perfume Kewra made from the oil of the Pandanus tree, or the Pandang in India.


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet and rich fruity floral oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: jasmine, mimosa, hyacinth, peach, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, coriander
  • Middle notes: mace, saffron, ginger, cinnamon, pepper, tuberose, ylang ylang, lilac, honeysuckle
  • Base notes: leather, vetiver, patchouli, incense, musk, ambergris, vanilla, sandalwood


Keora was available in the following forms:

  • 2.7 ml Parfum
  • 7.5 ml Parfum
  • 50 ml Eau de Parfum
  • 2.7 ml Eau de Toilette
  • 30 ml Eau de Toilette
  • 50 ml Eau de Toilette
  • 100 ml Eau de Toilette
  • 200 ml Perfumed Body Lotion


Keora was reformulated at some time and many of the spices have been removed. You can find it in eau de toilette form in two sizes: 50m and 100ml nd eau de parfum in 50ml.




Chemical Economy & Engineering Review: CEER, 1978:
"Sanofi's early cosmetics acquisitions included Parfums Jean Couturier, Parfums Molyneux, Roger et Gallet, Farina, Stendhal and Yves Rocher."

Le Spectacle du monde, 1983:
"Kéora. It is a flower of India, the "kéora" which inspired this latest creation of Parfums Jean Couturier . Prepared by Jacqueline Couturier, this scent is powerful, without provocation, to the bold notes, rich and subtle."

Parfums d'Ouchy

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Parfums d'Ouchy (pronounced "doo-shay") was established  in 1928 by Radolphe Agranatt at 45 rue Laborde, Paris in 1928.

They had an office Parfums D'Ouchy, Inc. at 655 Fifth Avenue, New York and also one in Naples, Italy.


The perfumes of Parfums d'Ouchy:
  • 1929 L'Amazone 
  • 1929 Ambre
  • 1929 Chypre
  • 1929 Extrait d'Ouchy
  • 1929 Bouquet d'Ouchy
  • 1929 Olympiades
  • 1929 Simone
  • 1929 Princess de Legende
  • 1930 La Journée de la Femme


Theatre Magazine, 1930:
"d'Ouchy's "L'Amazone," aside from its haunting fragrance, is attractively packaged in a colorful betasseled suede box, in $2.50."

Printer's Ink, 1930:
"M. S. Mandell to Manage Parfums D'Ouchy Sales. M S. Mandell, for the last ten years, sales representative with the Vadsco Sales Corporation, New York, Vivaudou products has been appointed sales manager of Parfums D'Ouchy, Inc., also of New York.."

Jean Stuart Cosmetics, Inc.

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Jean Stuart Cosmetics Inc. of 535 Fifth Ave, New York, established in 1928. Launched a range of cosmetics, toiletries, and fragrances starting in 1929.

The fragrances of Jean Stuart:
  • 1928 Mona
  • 1929 Junior Deb
  • 1929 Romany
  • 1930 Favorite
  • 1930 Fleur d’Orange
  • 1930 Gardenia
  • 1930 Highland Mist
  • 1930 Jasmin
  • 1930 Jeunesse
  • 1930 Killarney Buds
  • 1930 Le Ciel
  • 1930 Mimosa
  • 1930 Nightingale
  • 1930 Orient
  • 1930 Rob Roy
  • 1930 Secret de Nuit
  • 1930 Sweet Pea
  • 1930 Violette
  • 1930 Town (a lively perfume)
  • 1930 Country (a floral bouquet perfume)
The New Yorker, 1929:
"Jean Stuart's newest perfume, Town, is a gay, sophisticated scent without too much voluptuousness."

Sahara Co.

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Parfumery Chiyotsubaki was a trade name for Sahara Co, of Japan.

The perfumes of Sahara Co.:

  • 1898 Parfumery Chiyotsubaki
  • 1900 Niwa Tsuku
  • 1900 Exira 






Parfums Florel

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Parfums Florel of 23 rue Washington, Paris; associated with Madame Jeanne Forstem (J Baudoin). Florel specialized in the manufacture of spices, eau de cologne, perfumes, and toilet waters and extracts.

Later known as Parfums Florel-Paris, and Florel-Paris.






The perfumes of Florel:

  • 1927 Florel
  • 1927 Superior Perfumes
  • 1930 Tabian
  • 1930 Fruit Vert (a fresh, pungent fruity fragrance, classified D3f)
  • 1934 Après Minuit
  • 1945 Charme Slave
  • 1945 Duke of Kent
  • Origan

Fruit Vert was the most successful of all of Florel's perfumes and was sold well into the 1960s.


Duke of Kent was also popular.



Zadig by Emilio Pucci c1972

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Zadig by Emilio Pucci: launched in 1972. In USA by 1973. The name is derived from one of Voltaire's novels.

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women with a chypre base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, peach, orange and coriander
  • Middle notes: ylang ylang, jasmine, rose, orris root, clove and honey
  • Base notes: patchouli, vetiver , cinnamon, benzoin, ambergris, Tibetan musk, civet, vanilla, tolu balsam

Click HERE to find Zadig by Emilio Pucci



Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1984.

Grain de Sable by Nicky Verfaillie c1977

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Grain de Sable by Parfums Nicky Verfaillie (Monique "Nicky" Verfaillie)


Grain de Sable by Nicky Verfaillie: launched in 977.




So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral green floral fragrance for women. It is described as a very watery and transparent fragrance with a sweet melon accord alongside papaya, jasmine and rose, layered over green notes.


  • Top notes: sweet melon accord, calone
  • Middle notes: papaya, jasmine, rose
  • Base notes: green notes


A verbatim translation of "Grain de Sable" is "grain of sand."

Discontinued, date unknown.

Flankers:

  • Grain de Folie 1981 Oriental Discontinued, date unknown.
  • Grain de Passion 1985 Chypre Discontinued, date unknown.
  • Grain d'Amour?

Laughter by Germaine Monteil c1940

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Laughter by Germaine Monteil: launched in 1940.

It was reformulated in 1951 to "make it brisker" and was rechristened Rigolade.



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light fruity floral fragrance for women.


  • Top notes: peach, aldehydes, citrus
  • Middle notes: fruit blossoms, summer flowers
  • Base notes:


Discontinued, date unknown.


Drug & Cosmetic Catalog, 1941:
"Laughter is Germain Monteil's first perfume (lower right). The bottle is streamlined, modern, with a beautifully cut stopper which is large in diameter as the bottle, giving it a column-like effect."

The New Yorker, 1950:
"Germaine Monteil is now making and bottling her Laughter in France, and in doing so has made a new thing of it, infinitely brighter. A half-ounce bottle is $12."

Harper's Bazaar - Page 276, 1956:
"Rigolade"— peaches, fruit blossoms and summer flowers, together in a kind of gay celebration. By Germaine Monteil. 1 ounce, $20."



Nelson, Baker & Co.

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Nelson Baker & Co. of 61 Brooklyn Avenue, Detroit, Michigan. Subsidiary of Penslar Stores.


THE BOOK OF DETROITERS, 1908:
"Edwin Horatio Nelson,  president of the Nelson Baker & Co manufacturing pharmacists; born Brighton, Ontario on June 27, 1856 son of John and Eliza Bayley (Thayer) Nelson; educated in Brighton grammar school; Belleville Commercial College, graduating 1874; Ontario College of Pharmacy, graduating degree of Ph C 1878; married at Rochester NY Apr 29, 1884 to Anna Louise Gilkeson. Came to Detroit spring of 1878 and entered employ of Frederick Stearns, retail druggist; next was connected with Frederick Stearns & Co, manufacturing pharmacists; was elected secretary of the corporation 1886, and continued until 1890; was one of the organizers and incorporators of Nelson Baker & Company in 1890, of which has been the head to the present time. Director National Can Co, National Bank of Commerce. Member Detroit Board of Commerce (director and member executive committee). Republican Episcopalian. Clubs: Detroit (secretary), Country, Les Cheneaux, Recreation. Golfing. Office: Cor. Lafayette Blvd and 7th St. Residence 1737 Jefferson Ave." 




Perfume List:
  • 1919 Garden Court
  • 1926 Fleur du Midi (Flower of the South) 
  • 1926 Spring Blossoms
  • 1926 Blossom Time
  • 1928 Chypre 
  • 1928 Orange Blossoms
  • 1928 Jasmine
  • 1928 Narcissus
  • 1928 Colonial Club for Men
CREAMS and LOTIONS FOR THE SKIN 
  • Garden Court Benzoin and Almond Cream
  • Garden Court Cold Cream
  • Garden Court Double Combination Cream
  • Spring Blossoms Cold Cream
  • Spring Blossoms Almond and Buttermilk Cream
  • Spring Blossoms Vanishing Cream
  • Fleur du Midi Buttermilk Cleansing Cream
  • Fleur du Midi Cold Cream
  • Fleur du Midi Tissue Cream
  • Fleur du Midi Vanishing Cream
  • Fleur du Midi Vanishing Cream Lotion
  • Fleur du Midi Facial Astringent
  • Penslar Almond and Cucumber Cream
  • Camphor Ice Lotion
  • Cocoa Butter Cold Cream
  • Theatrical Cold Cream
  • Cosmetine
  • Glycerine & Bay Rum
  • Creme of Almonds
  • Glycerine & Rose Water

PERFUMES and TOILET WATERS
  • Garden Court Perfume
  • Garden Court Toilet Water
  • Fleur du Midi Perfume
  • Fleur du Midi Toilet Water
  • Spring Blossoms Perfume
  • Spring Blossoms Toilet Water
  • Chypre Perfume 
  • Chypre Toilet Water
  • Jasmine Perfume
  • Jasmine Toilet Water
  • Narcissus Perfume
  • Narcissus Toilet Water 
  • Colonial Club Lilac Vegetal

TALCUM POWDERS 
  • Garden Court Talcum
  • Nelson's Baby Powder 
  • Orange Blossoms Talcum
  • Spring Blossoms Talcum
  • Fleur du Midi Talcum
  • Colonial Club Talcum for Men

SOAPS
  • Fleur du Midi Facial Soap
  • Benzoin and Almond Facial Soap
  • Baby Castile Soap
  • Germicidal Soap

FACE POWDERS
  • Garden Court Face Powder, White, Natural, Brunette
  • Spring Blossoms Face Powder, White, Natural, Brunette
  • Fleur du Midi Face Powder, White, Natural, Brunette
  • Jean Nolan Face Powder
  • Chypre Face Powder 

ROUGE COMPACTS
  • Fleur du Midi Rouge, Raspberry. Strawberry, Medium
  • Spring Blossoms Rouge, Flame, Medium. Poppy
MISCELLANEOUS:
  • Spring Blossoms Brilliantine (Liquid)
  • Fleur du Midi Brilliantine, Solid 

Savonnerie Parfumerie Maubert

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Isnard - Maubert Parfumeur:  A perfumery, cosmetic and toiletry shop established at 17 rue Lamartine, Lille, France in 1819; also see ' Parfumerie du La Val Creux', associated with Chrome et Cie; associated with Savonnerie Parfumerie Maubert. Maubert Jeune.

  • 1896 Fleurs Fraiches
  • 1896 Almaviva
  • 1896 La Guerre des Roses
  • 1896 Rose du Bengale
  • 1896 La Traviata - Peau d'Espagne
  • 1897 Sidi-el-Mahiddin
  • 1900 Cendrillon
  • 1920 Violettes Fraîche (s)
  • 1923 Stora
  • 1923 Ginette
  • 1927 Cyprus
  • 1935 Dalty
  • Amandes
  • Bouquet Indien
  • Eau de Portugal
  • Eau de Roses
  • Fougère Ambrée
  • Fougère Dorée
  • Gerbera
  • Heliotrope
  • Les Saisons - l'Ete
  • Lilas
  • Louisette
  • Modeste Violette
  • Muguet
  • Oeillet
  • Reviris
  • Rose Bulgaria
  • Santal Citrin
  • Souvenir
  • Violette Ambrée
  • Violette de Saint Raphael 

Hennessy Perfumes

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 Hennessy was established in 1932 by Frank Reilly at 1457 Broadway, New York; Also had a branch in Paris.

Hennessy produced luxury presentations using the finest Baccarat crystal flacons. The following perfumes were housed in Baccarat bottles: First Night at the Empire, New Years Eve in Havana, Nuit Profunde, Strictly Dishonorable, Two Hearts in Waltz Time, Moonlight and Roses, Caballero, Serenate, Rose-Ebene.

The perfumes of Hennessy:
  • 1930 Guernsée
  • 1931 Après Midi
  • 1931 Deep Night/Nuit Profonde
  • 1931 Easter on Fifth Ave
  • 1931 First Night at the Empire
  • 1931 Hennessy
  • 1931 Jerzee
  • 1931 L'Heure des Thé
  • 1931 Le Message de Violette
  • 1931 Molnar
  • 1931 Moonlight on the Ganges
  • 1931 New Year's Eve in Havana
  • 1931 Strictly Dishonorable
  • 1931 Two Hearts in Waltz Time
  • 1932 Jasmin
  • 1932 La Defaite du Corsaire
  • 1932 Moonlight and Roses 
  • 1932 Rose Noire
  • 1932 Roses of Picardy
  • 1933 Caballero 
  • 1933 Drezden
  • 1933 Sérénate 
  • 1934 Rose-Ebene 
  • 1935 Easter Parade
  • 1935 Jardin des Baghdad



Crystal Baccarat Art Deco flacon with a crescent moon shaped stopper, recently sold for $12,000 on eBay. This bottle was used for the perfumes Nuit Profonde and A Night in Havana.




A rare Art Deco perfume bottle by Baccarat made for Hennessy's “New Year's Eve in Havana” ended at $8,400 (expected to sell for $3,000-$4,000) at Mastro Perfume Bottle Auction. Today, Annick Goutal uses this same Baccarat bottle shape for her perfume Songes.



First Night at the Empire was presented in a flacon by Baccarat.

 Sérénate (This is the re-branded fragrance 'Caballero'. Presented in a flacon by Baccarat design # 734)

Rose-Ebene  (This is the re-branded fragrance 'Strictly Dishonorable'. Presented in a flacon by Baccarat

Gerly Parfumeur of Hollywood

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Of 6705 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood, California; also reported as Ferly.

Gerly produced perfumes that were sold under the names of some of the most famous film stars of the day such as Leila Hymans, Anita Page, Bessie Love, Raquel Torres and Renee Adoree. Other perfumes were sold with female first names such as Claudette, which may be a nod to Claudette Colbert.

The fragrances of Gerly:
  • 1930 Mon Hymans by Leila Hymans
  • 1930 Mon Page by Anita Page
  • 1930 Mon Love by Bessie Love
  • 1930 Mon Torres by Raquel Torres
  • 1930 Mon Adorée by Renée Adorée
  • 1930 Amour de Airette
  • 1930 Audrey
  • 1930 B'LovedGerly
  • 1930 Bouquet de France
  • 1930 Carolyn
  • 1930 Celui Que J'aime
  • 1930 Chypre de Gerly
  • 1930 Claudette
  • 1930 Dernier Cri
  • 1930 Fleurs Printanierez
  • 1930 Gardenia de Gerly
  • 1930 Idole du Jour
  • 1930 Jasmine
  • 1930 Kathryn
  • 1930 Le Songe de Merna
  • 1930 Leilad
  • 1930 L'Espirit du La Danse
  • 1930 Lilian
  • 1930 Liska
  • 1930 Little Orchid
  • 1930 Marjorie
  • 1930 Mimi
  • 1930 Musc d'Arabie
  • 1930 Pois de Senteur
  • 1930 Scent from Hollywood
  • 1930 Scheherazade
  • 1930 Sous Bois
  • 1930 Astral
  • 1930 Rendezvous
  • 1930 Fascination
  • 1933 L’Heure Exquise (exquisite hour)
  • 1933 Gerly's Deese (goddess)
  • 1933 Rêve d’Amour (dream of love)
  • 1933 La Premaveia (La Primavera) (springtime)
  • 1933 Nuite d’Été (Nuit d'Ete) (night of summer)
  • 1933 Idole (idol)
  • 1934 Tendresse
  • 1954 Chere Amie
  • Fleurs de Montmartré
  • Mardi Gras
  • Movie Star
  • Sonata


Motion Picture, Volume 43, 1932:
"Smell FRUITY odor of "Mon Page," Anita Page's personally blended perfume by Gerly."

Deseret News, 1933:
"Introducing Gerly Perfumes. The most exclusive line of French perfumes now sold by ZCMI Toilet Goods Dept. Gerly Perfumes are imported direct from Paris, they are highly concentrated odeurs, each one alluringly romantic. Sold in the original package or by the dram."

Chain Store Age, Volume 11, 1935:
"GERLY PERFUMES, product of Howe Company, Hollywood, Calif., are now being distributed in the territory east of the Rocky Mountains by Merz- Mihm Company, 38 West 32nd Street, New York City. "


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 38, 1936:
"Armstrong's Artmold Caps add the finishing touch of dainty design to these new "Gerly" perfume packages as well as provide secure seals that protect product quality from the factory to the home. "

Princess Pat Cosmetics & Perfumes

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Princess Pat LTD, established in 1921 by Patricia FB Gordon,who was the president of the company,  later traded under the names "Gordon & Gordon" and finally  "House of Gordon'".

Registration No. 146,236, granted September 6, 1921 for the trademark Princess Pat, and republished October 30, 1951 .

Princess Pat, LTD was a company manufacturing cosmetics, beauty preparations and perfumes during the 1920s and 1930s. They were located at 2701-9 South Wells Street, Chicago, Ill. Their labels were very high Art Deco and made I colors of red and black. Pieces will be marked “Princess Pat" with a design including a crown and a medallion bearing a profile of a woman's head, as a trade-mark.

The company produced various toiletries including: perfumes, toilet water, face powder, talcum powder, face creams, cold cream, brilliantine, skin food cream, rouges, sachet-powders, lipsticks, eyebrow pencils, hair tonics, scalp ointments, shampoos, eye-brow-growers, liquid face powders, nail polishes, cuticle remover, liquid ice astringent skin freshener tonic, nail bleaches, cuticle salves, hand lotions, deodorizers, depilatories, real human hair nets, nylon hair nets, and bath salts.

 Princess Pat lipsticks held the Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval.

The more important customers of Princess Pat cosmetics were Marshall Field, Mandel Brothers, Carson Pirie Scott & Company, Bloomingdale, Macy's, May Company, Walgreen, Whelan, Stineway Drug Company, Broadway Department Store, and practically every worthwhile store in the United States and Canada, Simpson's Eaton's, Sanborn's in Mexico, and all over the world, even in Brazil.

The Gordon & Gordon Company produced a line called “Mem’ry” and included vanishing cream, freckle cream (a skin bleach), hair tonic, beautifier, nail polish, cuticle remover, beauty night cream. Gordon & Gordon's logo was a stained styled glass peacock on their fancy Art Deco labels. Arch R. Everson served as general manager for Gordon & Gordon in the late 1920s after serving as general manager for cosmetics powerhouse, the Melba Manufacturing Company.

The House of Gordon released one fragrance that I know of,  Reminisce in 1945.

Maromay, Inc.

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Maromay, Inc.  The line consists of perfumes and colognes.

(Div. of International Cosmetics, Inc.) 900 Hyde Park Blvd., Inglewood, Calif.


  • 1954 Bal de Tete



Harper's Bazaar, 1956:
" "Bal de Tete" bath oil by Maromay makes your tub a flower-scented bower."

Parfumerie T. Jones

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Parfumerie Thomas Jones, usually just T. Jones, was an English perfume and cosmetic company established in 1850.

Thomas Jones is first recorded at 59 Berwick Street, Soho, W1, and then at 17 Frith Street. Soho...He is then recorded at 41 St. James's Street, SW2, where in addition to his 23, Boulevard des Capucines address in Paris, he is listed from 1878 until 1905 as a maker of travelling bags, dressing cases, brushes and perfumery, he also was a dealer in stationary, jewellery and other items. He won three Silver medalz for perfumery in1878 and 1889.
  • 1850 - Established perfumery business at in London
  • 1856 - Opened a branch at 25, rue La Boetie, Paris
  • 1877 - London branch was listed as 18 Golden Square, Soho, W.

In addition to fragrances, he also produced cosmetics and toiletries such as La Juvenile (face powder), Lily Wash (facial astringent), Iatif Cold Cream, Iatif Soap, Elixir Samohti (Mouthwash), Paste Samohti (toothpaste), Fluide Iatif (facial lotion), Jones Toilet Water and more.








Perfume list:
  • 1889 Imperial Russe
  • 1889 Victoria
  • 1889 Chypre
  • 1889 Caprice
  • 1889 Muguet
  • 1889 Violets
  • 1889 Jubilee
  • 1889 Something New
  • 1889 Stephanotis
  • 1889 Opoponax
  • 1889 White Heliotrope
  • 1889 Ess-Bouquet
  • 1889 New Mown Hay
  • 1889 Aida
  • 1889 White Rose
  • 1889 Paradis
  • 1889 Royal Ascot
  • 1889 Queen's Violet
  • 1889 Bruyere d'Ecosse
  • 1889 Royal Mimosa
  • 1889 Frangipane
  • 1889 Gardenia
  • 1889 Heliotrope
  • 1889 Ylang Ylang
  • 1889 Parfums de Fleurs
  • 1889 Iris
  • 1889 Rose
  • 1889 Acacia
  • 1889 Musc
  • 1889 Chypre
  • 1889 Ambregris
  • 1889 Violette de Parme
  • 1904 Mon Secret
  • 1904 Le Regent de France
  • 1908 Les Jardins de Versailles
  • 1909 Les Capucines
  • 1911 Veni-Vici
  • 1911 La Fleur Merveilleuse
  • 1912 Gai Paris
  • 1913 10-20 
  • 1914 Thomas Jones
  • 1915 Floramar
  • 1917 Petite Madame
  • 1920 Becker
  • 1920 Cloches Charmeuses
  • 1920 Gai Paris
  • 1920 Jou Jou
  • 1920 Maida
  • 1922 Queen of Violet
  • 1922 Rose Cardinal
  • 1924 Jinko
  • 1924 Un Parfum d'Ambre
  • 1930 Avia-Pays d'Or
  • La Garconne

Baccarat created many of T. Jones' flacons namely for the perfumes Becker, Veni-Vici, La Fleur Merveilleuse, Jinko and Le Regent de France

Veni-Vici (I Came, I Conquered) was presented in a flacon by Baccarat, design # 368.

Becker, was presented in a flacon by Baccarat design # 532.

 La Fleur Merveilleuse was presented in a flacon designed by Daillet and made by Baccarat.

Julien Viard designed the bottle for Gai Paris, which featured an image of the Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe on front and the Moulin Rouge on the back, enhanced with enamel and grey patina, molded labels, gold detail, stopper molded with a Venetian style ball mask, tambourine and ribbons to represent Carnival. This bottle was also used for the perfume 10-20.



Viard also designed the bottle for Cloches Charmeuses, which was in the shape of a large decorative bell, molded with a stylized peacock feather frieze along the top, accented with a applied patina finish imitating the verdigris that would be found on a bronze bell.






THE CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, July 28, 1906:
"Some Attractive Toilet Specialities. Mr. W. Bonser Hayward has started business on his own account at 17 Lawrence Lane, London, E.C, having secured agencies for T. Jones, Manufacturer of Perfumery, 23 Boulevard des Capucines,Paris, and S. Hornemann (formerly Johann Maria Farina, Gegenuber dem Richartz Platz, Cologne). Mr. Hayward is also an importer of French extracts, Bulgarian otto, and of fancy and dressing combs, samples of which may be seen at his showrooms. The preparations of T. Jones are interesting, and already enjoy distinction among the well-to-do in London and Paris. Fluid Iatif is a cosmetic which soothes the skin and prevents roughness, especially in hot climates. It is used along with La juvenile face-powder. Lait Iatif (Lily Wash) is a similar preparation that contains a cosmetic- powder (three tints). It is quite popular in the West-end. We have also had the opportunity of sampling Mr. Jones's perfumes, of which there is a wide range, the odours being excellent and the styles of packing good. Mr. Hayward invites application for price-lists and quotations in respect to any of the lines he handles."

The Evening World, 1922:
"An Extraordinary Sale Tomorrow of Imported Perfumes, Toilet Waters and Face Powders At prices in many instances One-half Less than regular value. .All highly desirable products from T. JONES, the well-known Parisian perfumer. 
  • Perfumes:  In 2-oz. attractively shaped bottles; some with satin lined boxes. Fragrant Queen of Violet, Jou-Jou, Rose Cardinal, 10-20 and Petite Madame aromas. 
  • Toilet Waters: In 6 and 8-oz., bottles with glass stoppers. Veni-Vici, Petite Madame, Jou-Jou, Maida, and many other desirable odors. $3.75 ($7 to $10 values) $2.95 ($5 to $8 values) 
  • Face Powders: In two special groups. 60C ($1.25 value) $1.25 to $2.25 value)"


J'ai Ose by Guy Laroche c1977

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J'ai Ose by Guy Laroche: launched in 1977.  J'ai Ose, name means "I Dare" in French, was created by the designer Guy Laroche, promoted and marketed by the cosmetic company, Lancome, and backed by its parent, the giant French hair product and cosmetic multi-national, L'Oreal.

The perfume was inspired by Menceau's interpretive sculpture of modern woman. Guy Laroche commissioned the sculptor Serge Mansau to do a fantasy bottle for his wicked perfume, J'ai Ose. Each, fine of kind.



J'ai Ose was available in the following:

  • 0.25 oz Parfum
  • 0.50 oz Parfum
  • 1.0 oz Parfum
  • 0.17 oz Parfum Purse Spray
  • 0.38 oz Parfum Purse Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray
  • Dusting powder
  • Bath soap


Glass, 19890:
"A Silver Star, together with the Glass Manufacturers' Federation special award for the best glass container entry in Starpack, was won by the J'ai Ose atomiser marketed by Parfums Guy Laroche. This 25g  eau de toilette bottle was manufactured at Rockware's Nottingley factory in flint glass with white printing. The unusual spray through cap is in Bordeaux Red and completely conceals the neck."

So what does the original version smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: galbanum, aldehydes, citrus notes, chamomile, coriander, and peach
  • Middle notes: cedar, jasmine absolute, rose absolute, sandalwood, vetiver, orris, patchouli
  • Base notes: olibanum, leather, oakmoss, ambergris, patchouli, musk and benzoin

I purchased a vintage sample of the parfum and find that it is very green at first, lots of galbanum and oakmoss. An exuberant burst of aldehydes, zesty citrus and a fruity note of peach tickle my nose. Warm floral notes of jasmine and rose absolutes, punctuated by the spicy herbal fusion of coriander and chamomile. Soft hints of oriental woods, cedar and sandalwood, are layered over the dusty, earthy notes of vetiver and patchouli. Finally, traces of balsamic benzoin and powdery ambergris emerge from the animalic base of leather and musk. My overall impression is that this is an elegant and seamless blend, with the oakmoss remaining from beginning to end. Certainly a skin scent, not a loud, sillage monster.

The fragrance was reformulated and is now sold by Jai Ose Parfums Paris, not Guy Laroche. So, if you want the original vintage fragrance, be sure that the box says Guy Laroche on it.







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