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April Showers by Cheramy 1921

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The Cheramy perfumery, was established by Raymond Couin at 19 rue Cambon, Paris in around 1921. The name Cheramy may be a play on words, deriving from Cher Ami ("dear friend" in French). April Showers was Cheramy's best selling fragrance.




 April Showers was launched in 1921.

So what does it smell like? It was a fougere perfume with dominant geranium-lavender notes.


From the June 1925 issue of Photoplay:
“April Showers Accent your Charm with the Perfumes of Youth. 
At the country club, at the reception, wherever one finds the vivacious debutante, one is aware of a soft, whispering wave of something entirely new, a scent fresh as springtime, subtle as a whisper, as youthful as youth itself. It is April Showers, it can’t be described by either of the softness of colors or the vividness of words., and what so few perfumes possess-imagination. Imagination born of genius and tradition. Imagination of great artists who have spent lifetimes in the gardens of France,weaving the breath of flowers into wondrous odors. April Showers is another such masterpiece as Cappi, as vivid, as bright, as sparkling, but filed with the freshness of springtime. The woman who has Cappi will want April Showers. Nd the woman who has neither will want them both. For the two of them will accent the charm of her varying moods. They are Cheramy’s Perfumes of Youth.

  • April Showers perfume, a whole ocean of self confidence in one tiny bottle, $1.00, $2.50 and $4.00.
  • Double Compact, a new jewel of beauty and usefulness that you’ll want to carry always, very thin $2.00.
  • Face Powder, stays on-blends with your skin makes it smoother, creamier and finer, in five delicate shades $0.75.
  • Bath Salts- bits of crystal magic that make a bath work wonders when you’re tired $1.00. 
  • Dusting Powder- a fluffy fineness , delightfully perfumed, for the discriminating $1.25.
  • Toilet Water, like liquid topaz, magically refreshing $2.00.”

April Showers was available in eau de cologne, and bottles ranged in sizes from the tiny enchantillon samples, 1/16 ltr, 1/8 ltr, ¼ ltr, ½ ltr to one liter in size.

From the June 30, 1927 issue of the Ottowa Citizen:
“New Toilet Preparations --April Showers from Cheramy of Paris: To the average woman, toilet goods represent a cool delightful avenue of escape from summer heat and discomfort. The bath preparations are refreshing and invigorating perfume and toilet water give a feeling of daintiness and immaculate well being - and the facial products keep the complexions clear and soft. Especially fitting for the summer months are these Cheramy preparations -
  • April Showers perfume… ¼ oz bottle….$1.00 
  • perfume…1oz bottle…..$2.50
  • Toilet Water………… $2.00
  • Face Powder…………..$1.00
  • Talcum in glass containers… $0.60
  • Talcum in tin containers…..$0.25
  • Permanent Rouge … $0.60
  • Bath Salts….$1.25
  • Dusting Powder…. $1.25”

By the 1940s, April Shower’s popularity soared and other products were introduced such as sachet powder, soaps, single compacts, brilliantine, cold cream, lipstick, rouge, skin lotion, and eau de cologne. It also appeared as April Showers Frosty Bouquet which appears to be a Christmas time limited edition during the 1940s.


 In 1953 Cheramy introduced the “April Showers Two in One, Deodorant Talc”.


 There was a time in 1966 when April Showers stood on it’s own two legs and products were marketed as April Showers, Inc, New York-Montreal. Located at 539 West 45th Street in New York City. The company made beauty and bath preparations, toiletries, and essential oils. And the products were compounded in the USA. It released fragrances called Bold Lemon, Muguet and Persian Lilac. The company was still in business around 1967.

In 1922, Cheramy Inc. was bought out by Houbigant, Cheramy became a division producing lower-priced products mainly for the American market. April Showers was released under both names. Cheramy specialized in high quality, single flower perfumes at affordable prices. The Cheramy perfumes were all initially presented in the same flacon model created by Julien Viard, but each fragrance had a different label. The vividly colored labels were shaped like a stylized  flower , represented by the perfume's name in true Art Deco style. The Cheramy shop was decorated with cardboard signs related to the label shapes and colors. The Cheramy image relied heavily on these coordinated geometric floral motifs.

Items such as perfume, eau de cologne, spray mist, eau de toilette dusting powder/talc powder, hand and body lotion, bath and shower gel, body soap, moisturizing cremes, bath oil, bubble bath, hair spray and personal deodorant may be found. By 1991, April Showers was no longer produced and the trademark had died.












Les Parfumeries de Gabilla

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Established in 1910 by Henriette Gabilla, a Syrian perfumer and cosmetician. Gabilla was a major exporter of luxury to lower priced presentations worldwide. It is reported by Nigel Groom that Gabilla started creating fragrances in the 1890s and her first perfume under her own name was Mon Cherie. Henriette moved to 6 rue Edouard VII in Paris and purchased a perfume factory in 1910 located 203 rue de Paris, Ivry-Sur-Seine. I have also read that she was the perfumer to the Court of Russia.



Gabilla also created perfumes and presentations for other companies such as Ciro. Gabilla created the first perfume presentations for Ciro and La Grande Maison de Blanc introduced their own perfumes using Gabilla creations in 1926. La Grand Maison le Blanc bought Gabilla’s Moda fragrance and renamed it La Grand Maison le Blanc.

The perfume Mae West was created for the voluptuous film star in 1934 and launched by her own label Wesmay. The perfume‘s slogan was “loaded with allure“. Gabilla created a perfume in 1920 named Tous Les Bouquets, and in 1923, sold it to Woolworth’s Department stores. In 1926, the perfume of Tout le Printemps was created, and later sold to Bourjois in 1932, who may have renamed it Springtime in Paris.

Gabilla also purchased perfumes from other companies, such is the case with Lubin’s perfume for Gaby, which Gabilla launched in 1920. The printing company of Marboef et Cie supplied Gabilla’s labels, papers and presentation boxes, most notably for the perfume Hossegor.

The best example of Gabilla’s influence over other designers would be for the perfume, My Sin. My Sin, first introduced by Gabilla in 1927 was created by in house perfumer Madame Zed. The flacon, of black crystal and gilded accents was designed by Julien Viard and produced by Depinoix. This beautiful perfume flacon and name had inspired Jeanne Lanvin to create her own version of My Sin, complete with a similar looking bottle by Armand Rateau. Interestingly, the Gabilla flacon was also produced in clear crystal, again accented in gilding and used for other scents such as Minnie in 1920.



The whimsical and simplified floral motifs drawn by Georges Lepape and Charles Martin and Georges Barbier, were soon a favorite style of Henriette Gabilla’s and informal versions of these designs were found on her early labels and bottles. Perfumes such as Violette and Pour Changer were contained in simple, but graceful bottles.

Henriette Gabilla had made friends with notable French writers and poets, such as Colette and Edmond Rostand. One of Gabilla’s first perfumes, Musardises was named after Rostand’s first book of poetry. The 1912 flacon for Musardises was elegantly enameled and may have been created by Georges Lepape. Another perfume was introduced in 1912, Minnie, named for one of Colette’s plays co-written with her husband from 1905. In 1918, Minnie was reintroduced in a flacon created by Baccarat chief designer Georges Chevalier, and produced by their glass works in a rare, silvered opalescent crystal. It has been said that Colette’s favorite perfume was Jasmin by Gabilla.



Another Baccarat flacon was created for the perfume Moda, which resembled the outline of a fashion sketch with a hat like stopper, decorated with an over sized gilded silk tassel and childlike enameled floral designs. The clear crystal flacon for Mimosa, from 1921, employed a large domed green enameled crystal stopper as the focal point for a rather bland Baccarat flacon. Gabilla won the Prix d’Honneur in 1925.

Gabilla’s perfume, La Vierge Folle (The Mad Virgin) was directly inspired by the title name of a play by Henri Bataille about a young girl who fell in love with an older man. The perfume was first created by Henriette Gabilla in 1910 and the flacon was later produced by Baccarat in 1910.

An early Gabilla flacon was made for the perfume La Reve de Gabilla, the Dream of Gabilla. This gorgeous satin finished bottle was accented with sepia patina in the recessed. The exquisite presentation case was covered with red velvet and jeweled and gilded silk threads reproducing a fabulous Renaissance era tapestry found in the Cluny Museum in Paris.



Starting in 1919, a series of commemorative perfumes were created for the first World War, this included: Fausse Alertes, Fleurs de Victoire, Heures Breves, Minuites Breves, Minuites Cheres, Minuites Revées,Nuits d'Alertes, La Fruité des Heures , Oublions L'Heure and Tic Tac.

Julien Viard lent his imagination to an existing Baccarat flacon used for other Gabilla scents, this time, in 1924, he softened the angular lines and added delicate stenciled perfume names onto the front of the bottles. Each perfume had a brass cap that was enameled on the top. These enameled tops matched the particular colors of the presentations boxes for certain perfumes. These color coded perfumes were red for Fleur du Jour, green for Musardises and cream for Moda.

Although Gabilla is most noted for their sumptuous flacons, it is possible to find some Gabilla scents contained within Baccarat’s early apothecary styled flacons, this practice by Gabilla started in 1923 as a type of “reverse snobbery” and a return to more simplistic presentations.



The whimsical and simplified floral motifs drawn by Georges Lepape and Charles Martin and Georges Barbier, were soon a favorite style of Hernriette Gabilla’s and informal versions of these designs were found on her early labels and bottles. Perfumes such as Violette and Pour Changer were contained in simple, but graceful bottles.

The flacon for Chin-Li was completely different, a modern type of presentation by Depinoix for Gabilla, combined vivid colors of green, blue, red, orange and yellow in its presentation.

A very unusual presentation created for Gabilla was for the perfume for Mon Talisman. Consisting of an opaque white crystal flacon enhanced with gilding, this Baccarat produced bottle came in two sizes, from a very large 10 5/6” to a diminutive 3 1/2” tall example

Other Baccarat flacons were produced for the following perfumes: Réveillon (Revillon), Folies de Femme, Tango, Tout le Printemps, Xantho, Mon Cheri, Gardenia and Mimosa.

I have seen a 1926 advertisement for Xantho perfume, it made clear that the perfume bottle could be purchased with different colored crystal stoppers, in sapphire, emerald, black onyx, ruby and amethyst.

Rene Lalique supplied beautiful crystal flacons for Gabilla’s Jasmin, Tout le Fleurs, Glycine and Lilas. The box for Jasmin also a luxury object, echoed the bottle’s floral pattern, complete with a hanging floral paper medallion attached by a silken tassel.

The designer Daillet lent his imagination for the creation of the flacon for Violette in 1912, in both green and clear crystal, each bottle was accented with enameling and is very Art Nouveau in character.



Gabilla's perfumes were distributed in the USA by Janet Rose.


The perfumes of  Gabilla :

  • 1902 La Vierge Folle (trademarked in 1910)
  • 1910 Mon Cherie (trademarked in 1910)
  • 1910 Fleur de Jour
  • 1910 Folle Passion, reissued in 1956 (trademarked in 1910)
  • 1910 La Vierge Folle, reissued in 1931
  • 1910 Mon Cheri, reissued in 1931
  • 1911 Xantho
  • 1912 Minne, reissued in 1931
  • 1912 Violette
  • 1912 La Rose de Gabilla
  • 1912 Le Bouquet de Gabilla
  • 1912 Le Rêve de Gabilla
  • 1912 Musardises,reissued in 1927
  • 1913 L’Ambre de Gabilla
  • 1914 Le Secret de Marguerite
  • 1917 Pour Changer
  • 1918 Moda, reissued in 1931
  • 1918 Réveillon/Révillon
  • 1919 Fausse Alertes
  • 1919 Folie de Femme
  • 1919 Heures Breves
  • 1919 La Fruité des Heures
  • 1919 Les Jeux et Les Ris (trademarked in 1910)
  • 1919 Minuites Breves
  • 1919 Minuites Cheres
  • 1919 Minuites Revées
  • 1919 Nuits d'Alertes
  • 1919 Oublions L'Heure
  • 1919 Tic Tac
  • 1919 Vincha
  • 1920 Gaby
  • 1920 Amour Americain
  • 1920 Tous Les Bouquets
  • 1921 Longchamp
  • 1922 Le Reve
  • 1922 Ambre de Gabilla
  • 1922 Le Succes
  • 1922 Eau de Verveine
  • 1922 Chrysantheme
  • 1922 Fleuri
  • 1922 Columbine
  • 1922 Fougere
  • 1922 La Bouquet
  • 1922 Foin Coupe
  • 1922 Ambre Merveilleux
  • 1922 Marguerites
  • 1922 Cordiality
  • 1922 Petite Folie
  • 1922 Musc du Tonkin
  • 1922 L'Ambre
  • 1922 Opoponax
  • 1922 Pa-Ri-Ki-Ri
  • 1922 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1922 La Violette de Gabilla
  • 1922 Tout le France
  • 1922 Tout le Printemps
  • 1923 L’Intrigant
  • 1924 Chypre
  • 1924 Gaby Deslys
  • 1924 Hauthro
  • 1924 Chin-Li
  • 1924 Fleur de Jour
  • 1925 De Tout Un Peu
  • 1925 Jasmin
  • 1925 La Violette
  • 1925 Lilas
  • 1925 Folies de Femme
  • 1926 Bruyere
  • 1926 Toutes Les Fleurs
  • 1925 Millefleur
  • 1925 Sais-Tu?
  • 1925 Tango
  • 1926 Bruyere
  • 1926 Pois de Senteur
  • 1926 Narcisse
  • 1926 Mon Talisman
  • 1926 Tout le Printemps (trademarked in 1910)
  • 1926 Glycine
  • 1926 Jasmin
  • 1926 Gardenia
  • 1926 Muguet
  • 1926 Mimosa
  • 1926 Xantho
  • 1926 Rose
  • 1926 Mimosa
  • 1926 Heliotrope
  • 1927 My Sin
  • 1928 Bijou D'Amour
  • 1929 Hossegor
  • 1929 Seneca
  • 1930 La Glycine
  • 1930 La Jasmin de Gabilla
  • 1930 Luce et Colas
  • 1930 Œillet
  • 1931 Longchamps
  • 1932 XYZ
  • 1933 Oui ou Non?
  • 1933 Sinful Soul
  • 1933 Vineuil
  • 1935 Mae West
  • 1936 Reve A Deux
  • 1937 Tango
  • 1938 Quadrille
  • 1938 Intrigue
  • 1940 Dream For Two
  • 1940 Foolish Virgin
  • 1953 Fredaines



These other perfume names are recorded for Gabilla, but I am unsure of their launch dates: Chauve-Souris Paquette, Reve a Deux.

The House of Gabilla was resurrected in 2007 but I have not heard any news regarding the launch of any perfumes or products since.

Cadolle Freres Perfumes

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Cadolle Freres of Paris France, established in 1889 as a haute couture corset shop in Buenos Aires by Herminie Cadolle, opened Paris shop in 1910 as a family business with fashionable clientele at 14 rue Cambon.



The company was responsible for introducing and patenting the first brassiere back in 1889 at the Paris Exposition, the corselet-gorge, and an expression she in which she later referred to as Amour en Cage, or Caged Love, her term for a woman’s bust encased by the brassiere. This French expression used since around 1910 when a play of the same name was successfully gracing the French stages.

Her grand daughter Marguerite launched a range of fragrances in 1926 as part of their fashion linesIt was that famous play L’Amour en Cage which also inspired Cadolle to name her perfume in 1926, aptly named Amour en Cage. It was first given only to selected clients and became the must have accessory for anyone who purchased Cadolle’s creations. The firm of Marboef et Cie produced the papers, boxes and labels for this luxurious perfume presentation.



Female tennis star and Wimbeldon champion Suzanne Lenglen inspired two of Cadolle Freres perfumes, Apres le Tennis and Suzanne Lenglen, both of which debuted in 1927.

Just after the second World War, Cadolle No. 9’s formula was sold to Paquin, creator of the famous 9 X 9 perfume. Shortly after, L’Oreal purchased Paquin, and Cadolle No. 9 was then purchased again by their namesake firm, Poupie Cadolle, who incorporated Cadolle Parfums in 1986.. The firm is now known as the House of Cadolle, now run by Herminie Cadolle’s great-great-great granddaughter. www.cadolle.com. Cadolle No. 9 was still available in selected retailers in Europe up until around 2008.



Cadolle's perfumes were introduced in 1926:

  • 1926 Amour en Cage
  • 1926 Le No. 9
  • 1926 Apres le Tennis
  • 1927 Le Bois Sauvage
  • 1927 Reve d'Infante
  • 1929 Magicia
  • 1930 Bien Etre
  • 1934 Gardenia
  • 1935 Cadollia
  • 1938 Alicia
  • 1958 Cadolle
  • 1989 Cadolle No. 9


Cadolle No. 9 was created as an answer to Chanel’s famous No. 5 perfume. In the 1989, this exquisite oriental perfume was reorchestrated and relaunched. The result was a powdery soft oriental fragrance that was available in both eau de parfum and eau de toilette forms. Cadolle No. 9 was still available in selected retailers in Europe up until around 2008.

The notes of Cadolle No. 9 described by Nigel Groom are:


  • Top: Jasmine, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Lily, carnation, citrus
  • Heart: Red Cedar, Sandalwood, Rosewood
  • Base: Benzoin, Sandalwood, Cedar, Patchouli


Max Factor's Sophisti-cat Presentations

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During the period of 1954 to 1970, Max Factor was looking for a new way to draw a younger crowd to their line of perfumes. Their answer? The range of Sophisti-cat and Poodle presentations.




These presentations had either flocked cardboard cats, honey bears or poodles in various colors such as purple, red, pink, brown, black, chartreuse, green, yellow and turquoise blue. All animals had different colored rhinestone eyes. Each animal would have a small dram and a half  (1/8 ounce) sized bottle of parfum attached to them. The presentations were further enhanced by little trinkets such as a necklace, flower, feathers or pearl necklaces around the necks of the animals, all captured under a clear plastic dome.

The perfumes for these presentations were some of Max Factor's best seller:  Primitif (1956), Golden Woods  (1951) , Electrique (1954) Aquarius (1969), Jonquille (1960s), Exuberance and  Hypnotique  from 1958.

Looking through old magazine ads I noted that the 1950s bottles were rectangular in shape, then as the 1960s went on they became more cylindrical. The ears on the cats in particular are very pointy in the 1950s versions.

Look on ebay for fabulous bargains on these old time faves!!!

AA Vantine's History and Perfumes

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Posted on May 18, 2008 at 4:30 PMDelete delete    Overlays edit    Comments comments (0)
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by the Ashley Abraham Vantine Inc.  of  West 39th Street New York City, with branches in Boston & Philadelphia.

Vantine's Oriental Store was a well known gift store that specialized in imported wares "from the Empires of Japan, China, India, China, Persia and the East". It was founded in 1869 by AA Vantine in New York City, establishing one of the first stores to import Oriental goods.

Most of their incense burners were also imported from France. Vantine's supplied a touch of the exotic to Americans during the craze for all things Oriental.

Some commonly found items from Vantine's are the metal incense burners imported from France, incense tins, fans, hanging wicker sachet containers, postcards, advertisements, mahjonng sets, vases, Japanese dolls,and powder boxes.

The less commonly found items are:

  • the perfumes (some in their original lacquer boxes)
  • bath salts
  • catalogs
  • lamps and lampshades
  • Oriental rugs & carpets
  • soaps
  • paper lanterns
  • porcelain tableware
  • bronze lamps
  • teas, coffees
  • delicacies
  • toys
  • kimonos
  • bronze & porcelain jardinieres
  • porcelain and cloisonne floor vases
  • wall scrolls
  • paper parasols
  • other parasols had ivory, belt buckles, silver & jade handles
  • dinner gongs
  • chimes
  • carved ivories
  • draperies
  • Baghdad cushions
  • rattan furniture
  • Oriental silk fabrics
  • teakwood furniture
  • solid silver tea services
  • large bronzes
  • Japanese & Chinese brocade bags
  • clothing
  • shawls
  • hair ornaments called kanzashi 
  • jewelry.


Original Vantine's labels on these goods are scarce.

The company also provided mail order catalogues so that customers could "rest comfortably at home in your easy chair, and, at your leisure, select by mail, with absolute confidence, from the largest collection of Oriental goods in America".

Vantine's also had a fan catalog featuring over 100 different fan styles made of bamboo, bone, gauze, sandalwood, paper, silk and some with sequin spangled decorations. The 1906 ad stated that "fans make souvenirs and gifts for cotillions, bridesmaids, weddings, dinners, and all other occasions".

On a darker note, Vantine's was bought in 1926 by mob gangster Arnold Rothstein who used the store as a front for his business in drug smuggling. Since Vantine's was a legitimate business with an excellent reputation, customs officials gave the shipments only a cursory search. This drug trafficking operation through Vantine's only lasted until 1928, when Rothstein was murdered.


The perfumes and toiletries listed below are ones that I have found in original advertisements, the dates given are from what year I saw them in an ad, they may have been introduced earlier, but I have no exact proof just yet.
                                                   
The Perfumes of Vantine's:

  • 1898 Corylopsis
  • 1898 Delhi Heliotrope
  • 1898 Japanese Iris
  • 1900 Java Lily
  • 1900 Mary Stuart
  • 1905 Koi Sai
  • 1906 Sandalwood
  • 1908 Geisha Flowers
  • 1908 Hi Yang
  • 1908 Jafleur
  • 1908 Van San
  • 1908 Chypre
  • 1908 Kai Sang
  • 1909 Mekado
  • 1909 Pagoda
  • 1909 Sandalwood
  • 1909 Wisteria
  • 1909 Vinenta
  • 1909 Viorenta
  • 1912 India Pearl Tooth Powder
  • 1912 Winsum Lilac
  • 1912 Geisha Flowers Sachet
  • 1912 Kutch Sandalwood Talcum
  • 1912 Wistaria Sachet
  • 1912 Sandalwood Extract
  • 1912 Lotus Flower Extract
  • 1912 Geisha Flowers Extract
  • 1912 Wistaria Extract
  • 1912 Geisha Face Powder
  • 1912 Sandalwood Sachet
  • 1912 Geisha Disappearing Cream
  • 1912 Sandalwood Soap
  • 1912 Wistaria Toilet Water
  • 1912 Geisha Nail Stone (part of Geisha Manicure Set)
  • 1912 Geisha Nail Bleach (part of Geisha Manicure Set)
  • 1913 Japanese Corylopsis
  • 1913 Flowery Kingdom
  • 1914 Attar of Rose
  • 1915 Nirvana
  • 1915 Orange Blossom
  • 1917 Flowery Kingdom
  • 1917 Geisha
  • 1917 Geisha Flowers
  • 1917 Gul Raesee
  • 1917 Japanese Lily
  • 1917 Kutch Sandalwood
  • 1917 O Lotus San
  • 1917 Wistaria Blossom
  • 1920 Orchid
  • 1920 Oriental Violet
  • 1920 Rose Drops
  • 1920 Singapore Sandalwood
  • 1920 Turkish Rose
  • 1922 Hana Violet
  • 1922 Charmeen
  • 1922 Mimosa
  • 1922 Nile Lily
  • 1922 Sacred Lily
  • 1922 Violet
  • 1922 Mikado
  • 1922 Jafleur Toilet Water
  • 1922 Jafleur Powder
  • 1922 Jafleur Talc
  • 1922 Jafleur Cold Cream
  • 1922 Jafleur Vanishing cream
  • 1922 Lotus Flower
  • 1925 Mekado Bouquet
  • 1925 Sweet Pea
  • 1927 Zanadu
  • 1930 Anna Pavlova
  • 1933 Embassy
  • 1940 Apple Blossom
  • 1940 Lilac
  • 1940 Clover
  • 1940 Escapade
  • Winsum Lilac


Debutante de Versailles by Jean Desprez c1958

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In 1958, Jean Desprez composed the fragrance DEBUTANTE DE VERSAILLES, a perfume created especially in Limited Edition for Daggett & Ramsdell, on the occasion of Bal in Versailles given in honor of the American and French debutantes. The perfume was a tie in to Teleflora's Aura Arrangements campaign line of floral arrangements. The perfume was housed inside of s cut crystal flacon manufactured by Cristal de Sevres.

Punch, 1958:
"the world's most bewitching fragrance in a concentration never before achieved. They make the world's most expensive perfume, "Debutante de Versailles," which will be used as the fragrance in the October issue of Spirit, publication of Teleflora.  Needless to say a bottle in a lush case was presented to each girl."

Telegraph Delivery Spirit, Volume 28, 1961:
"This fabulously flattering fragrance made its exciting debut at the brilliant Debutante Bal de Versailles.Using the costliest floral essences ever captured, world famous parfumeur Jean Desprez created a perfume masterpiece, Aura Arrangements DEBUTANTE DE VERSAILLES. Here is a fragrance that surrounds the Spirit with the world's most expensive aura so rare, so romantic, you'll want to with your customer who knows and appreciates the best."




Bal a Versailles - Le Parfum du Jour by Jean Desprez

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Bal a Versailles - Le Parfum du Jour by Jean Desprez: launched in 1971.

 It was intended to be worn during the daytime. It was a fresher, lighter version of Bal a Versailles, but was extremely long lasting.


The perfume was housed in the beautiful clear crystal urn shaped bottle, made by Pochet et du Courval. The base of the bottle is acid etched with "Bottle Made in France". The bottles are topped with lucite screw caps.


It was available in the following sizes:

  • 0/50 oz (15ml) splash
  • 1 oz (30ml) splash
  • 1.7 oz (50ml) splash



This perfume has been discontinued since the 1970s and is very hard to find.



Jardin des arts, Issues 194-199, 1971:
"BAL à VERSAILLES □ Le Parfum du Jour de Jean Des- prez, merveille de distinction, de fraîcheur, qui n'exclut pas une exceptionnelle ténacité. Par excellence le parfum de la femme raffinée."






photos from ebay seller vivientreasures

Bab's Creations Perfumes

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Bab's Creations, Inc. was established around 1939 at West 52nd Street, New York. They sold toiletries and fragrances.

The perfumes of Bab's Creations:

  • 1939 Yesteryear 
  • 1940 Forever Yours
  • 1940 Gay Whirl
  • 1940 Orange Blossom
  • 1940 Gardenia
  • 1941 Hurdy Gurdy
  • 1941 Tic Toc
  • 1941 Blossomscent presentation
  • 1942 Mint Julep
  • 1943 Blossom-scent
  • 1943 Wood Nymph
  • Linger Longer



Bab's Yesteryear presentation held various true flower single note perfumes like Orange Blossom and Gardenia. Yesteryear was not the name of the perfume, just the presentation.








The Blossomscent presentation was a tall, 8 oz frosted decanter, decorated with hand painted flowers, the bottle held five various perfumes: meadowsweet, rosemary and magnolia colognes.





















































Onduline Hair Wiring Water by Jean

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Permanent wave (curling) fluid.  The paper label has a rooster trademark and reads "Produits de Jean Senegas."

The Winnipeg Tribune, 1911:
"Also "Onduline" Hair Wiring Water. A preparation that produces a quick and lasting wave, curl or crimp that will not be affected by moisture or perspiration. It is perfectly free from grease and gives to the ha if a soft glossy appearance that is the desire of all women. Non injurious. Put up in bottles and in two sizes."

Raquel, Inc

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Raquel, Inc. Established by Graeff Miller at 475 Fifth Avenue, New York City in 1924, started marketing in 1926. Raquel produced lipstick, rouge, face powder, soap, compacts, toilet water, sachet, talcum and bath crystals, all in addition to perfumes.

In 1927, Raquel, Inc. was purchased by Barclay & Co. at 26 Beaver Street, New York City. Raquel, Inc. manufactured perfumes, while Barclay was engaged chiefly in the exportation of soap.

By 1932, the company seems to have moved to 251 W.19th Street, New York City.


The perfumes of Raquel:

  • 1920 Orange Blossom/Orange Blossom Fragrancia
  • 1925 Olor de la Noche/Fragrance of the Night
  • 1926 Le Menuet
  • 1927 L'endeley
  • 1930 Chamonix
  • 1931 Gardenia
  • 1935 Primavera


A 1927 newspaper advertises that "Seven Years Ago Raquel Orange Blossom Was Created in California."
Both Orange Blossom and Olor de la Noche came in four sizes from 3" to 6" tall.

A 1929 ad reads:
"Olor de la Noche, The Fragrance of the Night, High among the hills of Mexico  there grows a wild flower, with a strangely striking scent. Indian legend has it that for some strange reason, the flowers sends forth its scent only in the night, never in the day. This exotic fragrance is imprisoned in this exquisite perfume."

Beginning in the 1920s all of Raquel's perfumes were housed in these oval shaped bottles with wave like lines on the front and back, with matching stoppers. The bottles came in clear glass, black glass and clear frosted glass, sometimes with gilded stoppers.

In 1932, the bottles were changed into round spheres with a crackle finish and spire like stoppers. These were made at Wheaton Glass in Millville, NJ. The older bottles were discontinued because as a newspaper ad states, "the old bottle was expensive to make. The new bottle costs little but is still very good looking".

The last newspaper ad I have seen for Raquel perfumes is from 1938, they must have closed business shortly thereafter.

Raquel, Incorporated. Renewed July 21, 1945, to Lorain Products Co., Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York, assignee by mesne assignments.

Tijan by D'Arline c1924

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 Tijan by D'Arline, a French perfume division from American Druggists Syndicate, Long Island City, N. Y.




The Evening Standard, 1930:
"SHEARER'S Once Again Offer the Unusual PERFUME VALUES E X T R A O R D I N A R Y. Regular $7.50. Original Package D'ARLINES "TIJAN" The Famous French Perfume At Vs Regular Price Regular $7.50 Size. D'ARLINE'S "TI JAN" is one of the finest of imported French perfumes . . . of an exquisite and subtle fragrance, encased in beautiful gift box of unusual charm. This value will show you the type of savings you may expect at Shearer's. A rare value that we are glad to offer our customers. We were only able to secure a limited quantity of these packages. Come early and secure your bottle In this phenomenal offering. The perfume is in the original scaled package, just as we received it from the importer."




Vintage Tijan perfume bottle by the American Druggist Syndicate in Long Island New York in 1924. Box top has a large gold flower on the top, with the petals drooping over to the sides of the box, gold petals alternate with a few aqua blue. Box dimension: 3 inches round by 2 ¾ inches tall. Perfume bottle is a clear glass bottle in a squat melon shape. Gold paper label. Frosted glass stopper features a butterfly sipping the nectar out of a flower. Perfume bottle stands about 2 ½ inches tall.


Parfumerie de Monte-Carlo N. Moehr

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Moehr perfumery of Monte Carlo. It was established by Nestor Moehr and Georges Moehr.



The perfumes of Moehr:

  • 1900 Frangipani
  • 1900 Bouquet Violettes de Nice
  • 1900 eau de cologne
  • 1925 Capucine
  • 1925 Iris de Monte Carlo
  • 1925 Gardenia de Monte Carlo
  • 1925 Bouquet Monte Carlo
  • 1925 Lotus Bleu
  • 1925 L'Aimée
  • 1925 Chypre
  • 1925 Iris Blanc
  • 1925 Violette de Blanches
  • 1925 Fleurs de Muguet
  • 1925 Muguet de Mai
  • 1925 Ses Fleurs
  • 1925 Caprice de Femme
  • 1925 Le Zephir
  • 1925 Yule Tide
  • 1925 L'Aimee
  • 1930 Fleur de Tabac
  • 1930 Fougère
  • 1930 Œillet
  • 1930 Violette
  • 1930 Lavanda
  • 1930 Mimosa
  • 1930 Lilas
  • 1930 Muguet
  • 1930 Eau de Rose




Parfumerie Rafin

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Parfumerie  Rafin, 5 avenue Victoria, Paris, established in 1855 by Henri Rafin, a pharmacist. Launched fragrances in mid 1920's.

Company seems to have been taken over by Georges Moehr of Parfumerie Moehr of Monte-Carlo by the 1940s.

Created a perfume in 1925, Eau de George Sand, Pour la Toilette et le Mouchoir.  “Eau de George Sand” won a medal of honor in 1859 as noted in L'Opinion Nationale. . Pleased with the scented tribute, the author wrote 'The result is very light, and very distinguished, very salutory for people like me who resist perfumes that are too strong.' Rafin, recognizing the success he had with the illustrious writer, sent her a whole box of perfumes, every year on the same day of the year.  In a family celebration, bottles were distributed by hand puppets by the house staff.

 


Most famous for their Creme Rafin.

Perfume list:

  • 1925 Eau de George Sand
  • 1925 Caprice de Femme
  • 1925 Reve d'Arlequin
  • 1925 Divine Carese
  • 1925 Elle et Lui
  • 1925 Etrange Volupte



Collecting Opalescent Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

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Perhaps the most loveliest of all opaque colors is the ethereal opalescent examples.

Julien Viard produced two fine examples for Caron's Isadora and Parfum Precieux both in 1910.


Parfum Precieuse by Caron , perfume bottle in opalescent amber glass, molded label, with matching scarab stopper. Measures 6" long.













During this time, Victor Vassier also introduced a perfume, Brasse de Violettes, that came in a stunning opalescent glass bottle.



During the 1920s,  Calliste offered a perfume in a geometric opalescent flacon with faceted sides.  It measures 5.5" high by 3" wide. Unknown scent name.





















Beautiful ovoid perfume bottle with arched stopper dates to the 1920s. It measures 6.5" high by 3" wide. The gold paper label reads "Eau de Cologne Aux Fleurs" and shows a gilt crinoline lady with fan.
















Tresor de la Mer by Saks: Rare perfume presentation for Saks Fifth Ave, "Tresor de la Mer," circa 1939, special edition limited to fifty examples, a powder box in opalescent glass, holds a frosted glass perfume bottle (recreated from the one known existing original). Stenciled R. LALIQUE. 4".


In 1937, Andre Jollivet designed a gorgeous figural perfume flacon for the Peniston-Brown store in Bermuda. This bottle was in the shape of an angel fish and had a black glass base molded with geometric Art Deco motifs. It stands 4 1/2" tall. Marked "A. Jollivet France" on base
















Caron's 1939 perfume Voeu de Noel came in a gorgeous opalescent flacon molded with flowers. Manufactured by Cristalleries de Romesnil. Stands 3 3/4" tall.




















Lancome introduced"Melisande" in 1954, a beautiful figural bottle of a standing lady made up of pink tinted opalescent glass. This luxury  presentation was used for various perfumes and was designed by Georges Delhomme.


















In 1958, Lancome introduced the Georges Delhomme designed "Spoutnik", in a limited edition presentation of a blue tinted opalescent glass moon faced purse flacon for the perfume Magie. This bottle was also used for other perfumes.













Lancome also introduced a crescent moon shaped flacon, also known as "Spoutnik" with a smiling face also in blue tinted opalescent glass attached to a cobalt glass base, this was a limited edition of only 100 examples and was used for various perfumes.


















If you love the look of opalescent glass perfumes, you may wish to explore further into these names; Sabino, Chamart, Waltersperger, Duncan and Miller, Portieux Vallerysthal, Fry, Lalique, M. Model, Sevres, and Fenton. All made gorgeous opalescent flacons sold without perfume so that you could add your own.

Morana Inc. Imported Perfume Bottles by Julien Viard

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The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, Volume 16, 1922:
"Beginning with this issue, the usual insert of Morana, Inc. which appears between advertising pages 16 and 17, has been increased to six pages, at which size it will continue until the further growth of the business makes necessary the use of larger space. The increase in the size of the insert is due to the addition of an imported bottle department. As was reported in the last issue, Morana, Inc. have secured the exclusive American agency of C. and J. Viard and R. Mouquet glass bottle designers and manufacturers of Montreuil, Seine, France. This insert is another example of a sagacious advertiser recognizing the value of this kind of display, which gives prominence to his own products, and incidentally livens up the advertising section as a whole, and we are told stimulates the interest of the casual reader in the contents of the entire journal."


Morana, Inc developed into IFF, read  about that here.









A La Cocarde de France Eau de Cologne by Delia c1938

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 A La Cocarde de France Eau de Cologne by M. Delia: launched in 1938.


American Druggist, Volume 97, 1938:
"Maurice Levy makes known the rediscovery of the Empress Josephine's favorite, exclusive eau de cologne, by M. Delia of Paris. Amusingly named "A la Cocarde de France," the cologne has a floral scent and is bottled in a flat crystal square with a heavy knob stopper. Use post card insert."

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, 1938:
"A new eau de cologne has been put on the market by " Delia," which is claimed to be the perfume used by Napoleon's first wife, the Empress Josephine. Certainly it has a delicate, lingering scent, and its package, an oval flask bearing a decorative label, is in itself a sufficient attraction without any reputation from by-gone years."

Les Parfums Brisson

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Les Parfums Brisson was established at 65-67 avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris  in 1945.





The perfumes of Brisson:

  • 1945 Toboggan
  • 1945 Fête Foraine
  • 1945 Feu et Flamme
  • 1945 Quartier Latin
  • 1945 Dynamisme
  • 1945 Fleur de Tabac

Parfums D'Arizane

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Parfums D'Arizane, of France.


The perfumes of d'Arizane:


  • 1940 Raban
  • 1940 Catogan
  • 1940 Rutlan



Parfumerie Diaphane

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Established in 1881 by Mr. Reverchon. Parfumerie Diaphane exported its products around two-thirds in most of Europe, in Indo-China to Japan in the Caribbean and off the coast of Pacific.

Key products included the sheer powder, Poudre Diaphane, used and endorsed by Sarah Bernhardt, and the perfume, Diaphane Pensée. Prizes for previous exhibitions, received the bronze medal in Paris, 1889.

Company was taken over by Jules and Paul Ehrmann in 1889.

Company was taken over by G. Mazuyer et Cie around 1898.

Any perfume or product from this company is extremely rare.




Revue illustrée, Volume 15, 1896:
"La Parfumerie Diaphane dont la célèbre poudre de riz Sarah Bernhardt a depuis longtemps consacré la réputation dans le monde entier nous offre aujourd hui une nouvelle création d élite l'Eau d'Ambre. Cette eau de toilette d une grande persistance de parfum et d'un arôme délicat qui révèle la véritable élégance s'emploie indistinctement sur le mouchoir ou dans le vaporisateur. Le public mondain a déjà accordé à l'Eau d'Ambre ses lettres de grande naturalisation."


Other info from Rapports du jury international: classe 90 - Parfumerie, 1901.

Hener

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Hener, of Paris, France. They were affiliated to Marshall Field & Co.




The perfumes of Hener:

  • 1922 Ishtar
  • 1923 Senorita
  • 1923 Flair
  • 1926 Perle Divine
  • 1926 Cabaret
  • 1926 Rue de Rivoli
  • 1926 Belle de Nuit
  • 1930 Sourire de France
  • 1930 Doux Sourire
  • 1930 Turquoise


Fashions of the Hour, 1926:
"And a delicate scent to please a pretty nose: (8) Asphodele by Lentheric, crystal and silver bottle, $12.50. (9) Lionceau's Parfum pour Blondes, jade green bottle, $15. (10) Sourire de France, old rose and silver bottle, $30. (11) Rue de Rivoli by Hener, black bottle with red and white, $18. (12) Hener's Belle de Nuit, royal blue bottle and case."


Fashions of the Hour, 1930:
 "A la Page" a spicy modern perfume in a red and white bottle. 2 oz. $18. 4107 — Hener's perfumes "Sourire de France", "Doux Sourire" and "Turquoise" 1 oz ..$5. Hener Purse Package - $1."
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