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Callisté

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Callisté. Established by Charles de Coppet at 130 rue de France, Nice in 1918. It seems that their fragrances were launched starting from 1926 onwards.

The company name was derived from the Greek word 'Kallistos', which means ‘most beautiful.’

Calliste's perfumes were housed in simple, Art Deco bottles with clean, straight lines, but the glass was of beautiful colors: onyx black, opaque white and deep translucent cobalt blue.

Perfume list:

  • 1925 Mon Studio
  • 1926 Ce Sont des Fleurs
  • 1926 Distinction
  • 1926 Jeune et Jolie
  • 1926 Réseda
  • 1926 Duchess de Brabant
  • 1926 Giroflée




Fashions of the Hour, 1930:
" The Individual touch is the first and last word in Paris notes for fall accessories, and Calliste follows suit with "Distinction," a new perfume which comes in a round pearl bottle and smart black box. $8, $15, and $25.





 

Calliste "Jeune & Jolie".  A perfume bottle of cobalt blue glass, cuboid form, each side with moulded panel on which is a gold paper label.  The globular lid comes off to reveal a blue glass stopper, c. 1925.

KL by Karl Lagerfeld c1982

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KL by Karl Lagerfeld: launched in 1982. Created by Roger Pellegrino of Firmenich.




I had read that the perfume KL, was "designed" by Karl Lagerfeld for Marshall Field's. KL, was his third perfume licence with Elizabeth Arden, and was launched in Europe at the end of 1982 with a huge party held at Versailles Achieving early success in Europe, the perfume was then introduced in the US in May 1983 with a two week promotional tour.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for women. A seductive gathering of lush fruits and sumptuous flowers. Of pungent spices and smoldering woods. Of amber and myrrh... . and mystery.
  • Top notes: mandarin orange, pimento, tangerine, magnolia, freesia, cassis, and bergamot 
  • Middle notes: cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, Jamaican pepper, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang and orchid
  • Base notes: styrax, labdanum, civet, ambergris, myrrh, vanilla, vetiver, musk, sandalwood, patchouli and benzoin

Karl Lagerfeld was an avid collector of antique hand fans from around the world. he subsequently donated them to various museums. The fashion designer was also a compulsive collector of perfume bottles. It was this joint passion that led him to develop a cut-glass bottle shaped as a fan for his KL perfume and bath collection. The resulting package was designed by Marc Rosen Associates of New York. The package won a "Fifi" award from The Fragrance Foundation, otherwise regarded as the "Oscars" of the perfume industry.


He agreed to use the initials K.L. and a drawing of himself, complete with his famous pony tail in silhouette for the namesake perfume - only because the original name "Fanatic" was thrown out by the lawyers in a copyright confusion. 


In 1985, Karl told Punch magazine that perfumes and fragrances have always played an important part in his life. That's why he started up Parfums Lagerfeld.

In early 1980s, you could get a special gold tone fan-shaped purse mirror with a purchase of spray parfum.

Ballarde Inc

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Ballarde Inc of Paris and New York was established by Martin de Markoff; launched a range of fragrances between 1930 and 1945.

The name Arcadi was probably derived from Arcadi Ivanovitch, Count Markoff.

The fragrances of Ballarde:
  • 1933 Arcadi (presented in a flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat design # 741)
  • 1935 Le Charme d’Arcadi
  • 1935 L’Automne en Arcadi
  • 1935 L’Été en Arcadi
  • 1936 Le Magnolia d'Arcadi
  • 1936 Le Muguetd'Arcadi 
  • 1936 Le Tuberosad'Arcadi 
  • 1936 Cologne Elixir Prince George of Russia
  • 1944 Alexa

The New Yorker, 1934:
"De Markoff's Toilet Essence, which is a cross between perfume and eau de Cologne, and the new Ballarde perfume called Arcadi — light and flowery."
Stage, 1935:
"BlGGEST BOTTLE OF PERFUME We've ever seen in our life is at De Markhoff's — it's a larger-than-quart flask, made by Baccarat, holding Ballarde's Arcadi perfume and costs $275. "

The New Yorker, 1935:
"Ballarde: Satin-covered cylinders contain Arcadi perfumes — Charme, L'Ete, Le Printemps, and L'Automne; $1.50. All luscious floral blends. Larger sizes, too."
The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, 1935:
"RARE PERFUMES. GLAMOUR IMPRISONED IN CRYSTAL! . when you give her precious, priceless gifts of personal glamour, an aura that surrounds her with new charm. We suggest Guerlain's "Shalimar" or Ballarde's "Arcadi" . . . two rare scents that whisper to her "You're the tops!" (Street Floor). Guerlain's Shalimar $23.07 Ballarde's Arcadi $32."

The Ogden Standard-Examiner, 1935:
"Perfume Spectacular! Ballarde Arcadi: Charme, L'Automne, L'Ete, ' Le Printemps."


The Delineator, 1935:
"Choosing a perfume for somebody else is risky, therefore consider those perfume sets which give you several chances to go ...De Markoff scores a scoop with a set of four Ballarde perfumes. You may select two or three or one as your feelings and your purse dictate."
The New Yorker - Volume 12, 1936:
"Lord & Taylor have a large assortment of Myrurgia perfumes, which are very Spanish and special indeed. Clavel is a heavy and superb carnation; the ... Ballarde offers magno-lia, tuberose, and muguet. Reta Terrell's Russian White Violet (new) is too wonderful...Lubin : Mekong, sort of a sachet type of perfume."

Stage, 1936:
"Royalty seems to be on a cosmetic vibration this year anyway; witness the new Ballarde perfume, do-ne up in a handsome black carafe, and called "Elixir Prince George of Russi-a."

Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 41, 1937:
"Lait de Cologne is said to be non-alcoholic and is recommended for after shaving and after bathing. One of the most interesting Cologne packages to make its appearance this year is Ballarde's Cologne Elixir Prince George of Russia."





Parfums Grenoville

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Parfums Grenoville/Parfumerie Grenoville was established by Paul Grenoville at 20 rue Royale, Paris in 1879; changed family name from ‘grenouille’, which means frog in French.

Timeline:


  • 1879 -  Parfumerie Grenoville  established
  • 1910 - Associated with Marie Marthe Richard Vive 
  • 1923 - Affiliated with Parfise
  • 1925 - Won a silver medal at the Parisian Art Deco Exhibition
  • 1932 - McKesson & Robbins sold the Lucretia Vanderbilt line to Grenoville, Inc.
  • 1939 - The company was known as Grenoville Les Grands Parfums, Inc.
  • 1943 - Grenoville acquired Les Parfums de Clamy

The exportation of Grenoville's perfumes to the USA were halted during WWII and didn't resume until around 1948.

A special perfume presentation known as the Envoi de France, designed by Lucienne Coudret, was made just after WWII in 1945 and was inspired by Allied victory and the liberation of Paris. The Eagle, a clear glass bottle with frosted stopper formed as an eagle with wings forming a victory "V" symbolized the United States. The Rooster, was a satin glass bottle with figural satin glass rooster stopper symbolized France.





Some of Grenoville's perfumes were housed in Baccarat crystal bottles. 
  • Nuit de Mai (Baccarat design # 137)
  • Ambré Hindou (Baccarat design # 200)
  • Casanova (Baccarat, design # 230)
  • Nikys/Byzance (Baccarat, design # 526)
  • Langlois (Baccarat design # 335)
  • XX Vincent (Baccarat design # 350)
  • Victrix
  • Rosier du Roy 
  • Chaîne d'Or  (Georges Chevalier design)
  • Iris
  • Oeillet

One of Grenoville's perfumes was housed in Rene Lalique flacons:
  • Victrix
One of Grenoville's perfumes was housed in Julien Viard bottles:
  • Rêverie 
A few of Grenoville's perfumes were housed in Czech bottles:
  • Casanova 
  • Casanova Royal Paris


The perfumes of Grenoville:
  • 1908 Œillet Fané ("Wilted Carnation") (still sold in 1947)
  • 1909 Jasmin Blanc (still sold in 1922)
  • 1910 Bluet (still sold in 1922)
  • 1910 Muguet d’Orly 
  • 1910 Muguet d’Orly Lotion
  • 1911 Nuit de Mai (still sold in 1929)
  • 1912 Ambré Hindou 
  • 1913 Rosier du Roy 
  • 1913 Victrix (still sold in 1929)
  • 1914 Cyclamen
  • 1914 Chypre (still sold in 1929)
  • 1914 Oeillet Prince Noir (still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Eau de Cologne Russe(still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Lilas en Fleur(still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Violette de Parme (still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Cologne Russe(still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Rose Myrto (still sold in 1921)
  • 1917 Langlois
  • 1917 Le Beau Masque ("The Beautiful Mask")
  • 1917 XX Vincent 
  • 1918 Chaîne d'Or (still sold in 1947)
  • 1919 Violette Grenoville
  • 1920 Espalier du Roy
  • 1920 Iris
  • 1921 Rêverie
  • 1921 Fougère
  • 1921 Violette 
  • 1921 Heliotrope  
  • 1921 Narcisse
  • 1921 Œillet
  • 1921 Lavande
  • 1921 Violettes Russes
  • 1921 Violettes Russes Lotion
  • 1923 Ambar de Grenoville
  • 1924 Dancing
  • 1924 Charny
  • 1925 Cypria (subtitled "Le Charme de Paris", designed by Georges Guerin, (still sold in 1929)
  • 1926 Byzance(in association with Parfise; a parfum) (still sold in 1947)
  • 1926 Nikys (this is the re-branded fragrance 'Byzance)
  • 1929 Casanova (subtitled "La Volupté de l'Orient", also presented in a version by M. Bovis)(still sold in 1947)
  • 1929 Casanova Royal Paris 
  • 1930 Parfums des 4 Saisons (presentation)
  • 1931 Avant l'Été(still sold in 1947)
  • 1931 Le Rouge du Diable 
  • 1934 Œillet
  • 1935 Dyamique
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin (a line of floral fragrances, still sold in 1946)
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Lilas
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Muguet d’Orly
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Narcisse
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Œillet
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Violette Russe
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Avant l'Été
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Œillet Fané
  • 1939 Un Piege (a trap/lure)
  • 1940 Piege(a trap/lure) (still sold in 1955)
  • 1953 Esbroufe ("Swagger") (still sold in 1955)
  • 1953 Esbroufe Lotion("Swagger") (still sold in 1955)
  • Eau de Cologne aux Pure Essences de Fleurs
  • Cuir de Russie
  • Hanaho
  • Cedrat
  • Jacinthe
  • Tabac 
Cosmetics & Toiletries:
  • Sûre d'Elle Face Powder
  • Sûre d'Elle Lipstick
  • Les pastels de Gren (cheek rouge)oville
  • Pilopenthal Pour Cheveux Secs (hair oil)
  • After Shave


Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 45, 1939:
"GRENOVILLE Les Grands Parfums, Inc., presents the entire Grenoville line in new outstanding presentations, in various containers priced from $6 to $105. Byzance perfume, the most popular, is a subtle blend of the gardenia fragrance."

Art and fashion - Issue 2760, 1954:
"Toilet water "Esbroufe" of Grenoville is as precious as the great perfume "Esbroufe" of which it is fragrant."


The following perfumes were available in the forms below.

Ambre Hindou:

  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 8 oz Parfum
  • Toilet Water
  • Lotion
  • Face Powder


Bluet:

  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 4 oz Parfum
  • 8 oz Parfum
  • 6 oz Toilet Water
  • Face Powder
  • Soap


Chypre:

  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 8 oz Parfum

Cologne Russe:

  • 6 oz


Iris:

  • 2 oz Parfum


Jasmin Blanc:

  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 6 1/2 oz Parfum
  • Toilet Water

Nuit de Mai:

  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 6 1/2 oz Parfum
  • Toilet Water
Oeillet Fane:
  • Parfum 
  • Cologne 
  • Face Powder
  • Soap

Reverie:
  • 2 oz Parfum

Rose Myrto:
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 8 oz Parfum

Victrix:
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum in novelty cut bottle
  • 4 oz Parfum
  • Lotion

Violet Grenoville:
  • 1 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 6 1/2 oz Parfum
  • Toilet water












 









Les Parfums de Clamy, Creations d'Art

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Established by Philippe de Back in Arcade des Champs-Elysées, Paris in 1913. The name was trademarked in 1900.  Full name of company 'Les Parfums de Clamy, Creations d'Art'.

Philippe Back de Surany (1860 Budapest - 1956 Paris), an Egyptologist, son of Maurice Back.
Branch Manager of the Cairo -Back Orosdi Institutions. He was Knighted by the Emperor of Austria in 1909.

Fabrique de parfumerie (Parfums de Clamy), 30, avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris, et usine à Asnières, 108, avenue d'Argenteuil. — Maison autrichienne. — M. Navarre, liquidateur.

The company produced luxury presentations featuring Lucien Gaillard bottles. Some of the bottles from 1915-1919 were decorated by the painters Robert and Sonia Delaunay, who were friends with Philippe and his wife.

In 1926, the business was directed by Philippe's youngest daughter, Germaine Carvaillo.

The business could not withstand the great Depression and closed in 1930, subsequently, they sold all of their remaining essential oils and materials to Guerlain. The business was acquired by Grenoville in 1943.

The perfumes of De Clamy:
  • 1913 Qui M’aime?
  • 1913 Femmes Ailees
  • 1914 Fleurs de Myrilla
  • 1914 Anthemis
  • 1915 Perverse
  • 1919 Bleuet
  • 1920 Choisy
  • 1920 Sauvageonne
  • 1927 Qui M'Aime
  • 1928 À Tire D’Ailes
  • 1929 Reve d'Almee
  • 1929 Dans les Airs
  • 1929 Ceuille Moi
  • Audé Diapée
  • Été
  • Eau de Cologne Fumeur
  • Taphne
  • Mourasaki
  • Charmant Aveu
  • Duc de Bragace
  • Pays des Fleurs
  • Eau de Cologne Fleuri















Stone Flower by New Dawn c1958

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This is my first entry into the world of the Russian perfume industry. Many of my readers hail from that part of the world, and I know they might enjoy these blog posts. If you have anything to add, please feel free to share your memories, comments or info with me.

A popular legend in Russia revolves around the creation of a famous perfume, Stone Flower, a perfume that was said to be born from the revival of the country to civilian life. Stone Flower was very successful and won a Grand Prix medal at the Brussels industrial exhibition in 1958.

Scent "Kamenny Tsvetok" (Stone Flower)

Evening scent for solemn occasions. Exquisite and composite bouquet musk, oak moss, and bergamot flowers. Figured glass bottle packed in an original box resembling the color of  malachite, an invariable element in ancient Ural legends.

Духи КАМЕННЫЙ ЦВЕТОК

Вечерние парадные  духи Изысканный и сложный запах мускуса дубового мха и цветов бергамота Флакон из фигурного стекла вложен в оригинальную коробку по цвету напоминающую уральский малахит - неизменный спутник древних уральских сказов



Stone Flower was purported to have been created in 1949, but based on the chemical makeup of the fragrance and the ingredients used, it actually occurred only a few years later in 1955 when it created by Pavel Ivanov. Stone Flower made use of one the synthetic musks known as pentadecanolide. This chemical has a powerful musky scent that has facets of sweetness, woodiness and powderiness with a slight herbal angelica root accent. It acts as a fixative and enhances skin acceptance and radiance to amber, animalic chypre, and herbal compositions. It is typically used .4% to 32% in perfume compounds- with an average use of 2%, Stone Flower employs this chemical in a concentration of 5.5% as noted by chemists Voitkevich and Kheifitsin the book "From ancient to modern incense perfumes and cosmetics."The fact that the musk used in the perfume was, in fact, a synthetic and not natural may surprise many people, but this type of musk is characterized as being "nature identical", which is why some people may have been confused..

After WWII, many opportunities had opened up in the world of domestic perfumery and that meant the acquisition of different and innovative fragrance chemicals was possible. The chemists as Novaya Zarya certainly knew that these new chemicals could pave the way for beautiful fragrances of the future and wasted no time in composing them.

National Review Bulletin - Volume 9, 1960"
"Communist jingoism doesn't step aside for Russian perfume. Soviet perfumes, unlike Western counterparts ("My Sin,""Temptation") are called "Red Moscow,""Sputnik,""Stone Flower," etc."

However, it is said that when Stone Flower was first released, it was not immediately favored due to two factors: cost and the vintage style name. Many of the citizens of the new era of Soviet Russia wanted modernism, not old fashioned granny perfumes that were too costly. Stone Flower had romantic connotations as a fantasy film of the same name that debuted in 1946, which was the first Russian movie to use color film shot on Agfacolor negative film which was seized in Germany during the war. The film was based on a Ural folktale by Pavel Bazhov and was also adapted into a ballet, The Tale of the Stone Flower (Prokofiev) in 1954.

Saturday Review, 1960:
"Most expensive of all is the new scent called Stone Flower, named after the recent ballet. It comes in a box that that unfolds like flower petals and costs a flat 100 rubles."

The actual name "stone flower" refers to the Parmelia perlata a light green lichen that grows on rocks in running streams or rivers. It has a mossy, earthy, damp scent which is musty, and slightly herbal/woody with a minty essence. A curious note: this ingredient finds itself included in ayurvedic preparations to help with sexual dysfunction.

Russia in the Thaw, 1964:
"The perfumes on sale "are all made from French oils". The most coveted perfume is called Kamenyi Zvetok (Stone Flower). It has the scent of gardenias: moist, hot, somewhat putrefied. Other sought-after brands are Pezdravlyayu ( Congratulations), Vecher (Evening), and Zolotoy Kaskad (cascade of Gold)."

So we figured where the name of the perfume originated, but what made Stone Flower so irresistible despite its price and traditional name? Simple, it was its beautiful packaging. The perfume was housed inside of a delightful crystal flacon,  its stylized floral shape, which certainly did not look cheaply made, had the high style of the Golden Age of perfumery, very 1920s-1930s. A richly colored, green marbled heavy cardstock presentation box, which looked like an Imperial egg and when opened, would reveal it's gleaming gilded foil interior and its precious cargo within, the stately crystal flacon, in all of its glory. It was this design that made it an ideal gift, one that denoted luxury. The dark green and black of the printed box recalled that of the malachite vase from the Copper Mountain featured in the ballet.

The View from No. 13 People's Street, 1962:
"The scents are packaged with tassels, colored paper printed with Russian scenery, and in bottles shaped like the Kremlin towers. ... In this land of strict morality the perfumes are staidly named "Red Moscow,""Evening," and "Stone Flower."

Stone Flower sold consistently up until its last day in 1993, though the quality of the perfume and its bottle declined as the price of manual labor increased. By the mid 1980s, the bottle no longer had its highly polished surface and it's exquisite look. One simple look at the stopper of an older bottle and one of the newer ones showed that on the older stopper, the top was cut and polished and resembles a flat disk, however, on the newer, lower quality bottle, there exists a crude mold line, a seam which looks very cheap and not at all refined. So if you are looking for the older vintage and cannot tell if it is the older or newer version ask the seller for a photo of the top of the stopper.

Foreign Trade, 1994:
"Spontaneous Productions, Inc, ... A full line of designer fragrance imitations is available at a production capacity of 150M bottles a day as well as Russia's finest fragrances, such as Red Moscow, Black Box, Kremlin, Stone Flower, Red Rose, Nordique and Moscow Lights with a very limited production with 20M bottles each per month."

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, galbanum, and honey
  • Middle notes: gardenia, iris, oregano, sage, marjoram
  • Base notes: benzoin, patchouli, ambergris, orris, musk, sandalwood, oak moss, vetiver

This perfume was presented by Nikita Khrushchev, Premier of the USSR, to First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy during the Vienna Conference on June 3-4, 1961.





Parfums d'Amboise

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Established by Oliver d'Amboise, G Brunet and F Friry at 13 Place de la Nation, Paris; launched a range of fragrances in the late 1920's and early '30's.

D'Amboise perfumes:
  • 1920 Narcisse d'Amboise
  • 1920 À Toi
  • 1920 Aline
  • 1920 Ambré du Pamyre(presented in a bottle by Julien Viard)
  • 1920 Bagdalys
  • 1920 Brise d'Angone
  • 1920 Chypre
  • 1920 Feline
  • 1920 Laura
  • 1920 Le Secret de Lulu(presented in a bottle made by C Depinoix et Fils)
  • 1920 Oréa (a parfum de toilette)
  • 1920 Rose Amour
  • 1920 Sxo Premier
  • 1922 Violette
  • 1920 Lilac
  • 1924 Le Mimosa (presented in a bottle designed by H Saumont and made by Verrières Viard)
  • 1924 Origan du Pamire (presented in a bottle by Verrières Viard)

Jealousy by Parfums Blanchard c1943

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Jealousy by Parfums Blanchard: launched in 1943.



Jealousy was available in the following forms:

  • Parfum
  • Dusting Powder
  • Cologne
  • Jealousy Bouquet Concentrate
  • Talc
  • Skin Sachet






























So what does it smell like? It is a floral woody oriental fragrance for women with a delightful chypre base. There are no published notes on this composition so I am using a vintage 1950s perfume nip to complete the fragrance profile.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lily of the valley, hyacinth, rose geranium
  • Middle notes: spices, lilac, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, ylang ylang
  • Base notes: musk, benzoin, cedar, oak moss, civet, sandalwood, ambergris, vetiver, patchouli

I applied some drops to the back of my hand and also on a piece of paper towel. On the skin, a very demure, but soapy floral is dominated by a fuzzy embrace of oakmoss and musk. Slight spices and a delicate powdery base with just a hint of sweetness. 

On paper, the sweetness of the benzoin and the jasmine have more intensity and the chypre accord is sharper. 

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1961.




André Perugia

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Perugia was established by André Perugia around 1924 at 11 rue de Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris. He is best known as one of the greatest custom footwear designers of the 20th century.

The Les Heures de Perugia was a presentation of three perfumes: Matin (Morning), Après Midi (Afternoon) and Soir (Evening). These perfumes are housed in various different bottles, but were commonly found in the black glass rectangular flacons emblazoned with the AP monogram in gold lettering.

The perfumes of Perugia:
  • 1924 Matin
  • 1924 Après Midi 
  • 1924 Soir
  • 1938 Atmosphere






Angelique

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The perfumes of Angelique of Wilton, CT, established 1946:
  • 1946 Black Satin (an aldehydic perfume)
  • 1949 White Satin
  • 1950 Gold Satin
  • 1954 Red Satin
  • 1950 Pink Satin


1963 ad showing Angelique's colognes and perfumes

Side Glance by Parfums Anjou c1952

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Side Glance by Parfums Anjou: launched in 1952.


Side Glance was available in the following:

  • Dusting Powder
  • Eau de Parfum
  • Parfum
  • Cologne

Click HERE to find Side Glance by Anjou


It is classified as a bright aldehydic floral fragrance for women with a subtle chypre base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lilac, lemon, ylang ylang, peach
  • Middle notes: violet, Bulgarian rose, heliotrope, lily of the valley, jasmine, tuberose
  • Base notes: orris, civet, benzoin, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, musk, ambergris, vetiver
There are no published notes on this perfume, so I am using a vintage 1950s perfume nip to complete the article. I feel that this perfume is very similar to L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci and Joy by Jean Patou.

The top notes of aldehydes and citrus are very effervescent with a slight breath of peach, giving way to the sheerest lily of the valley and lilac. The rich floral heart radiates with the sweetness of heliotrope and violet, the lush jasmine and tuberose and soapy Bulgarian rose. A luxurious base of animalic civet, musk and ambergris lend a depth spiked with woodsy green notes of patchouli, powdery sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss and orris, resting on a balsamic foundation of vanilla and benzoin.

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1961.

Program Notes, 1952:
"SIDE GLANCE by Anjou its brand new. . . so it's at Stevens! Anjou's flirtatious new fragrance, the lilt of flowers laced with provocative undertones! Be among the first to wear it — Perfume, $2.50* to $17. Cologne, $2.50 to $4."

Madame Rochas by Rochas c1960

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Madame Rochas by Rochas: launched in 1960. Created by Guy Robert who composed the perfume using nearly two hundred ingredients. One major base that he used was "Jasmine Flower" created in 1947 by Hubert Fraysse at Synarome, it had a beautiful jasmine accord with the tonal quality of orange blossom. This base was also used for Caleche by Hermes.



The vintage (original) formula was available in the following:
  • Parfum (perfume) - 1960s-1980s
  • Eau de Cologne - 1960s-1980s
  • Parfum de Toilette - 1970s-1980s
  • Eau de Toilette -1970s-1980s
  • Eau de Parfum - 1980s-1990s
  • Foaming Bath Cream
  • Bath and Shower Gel
  • Bath Oil
  • Body Cream
  • Soap
  • Spray Deodorant
  • Dusting Powder
  • Talcum Powder
  •  Silver tone filigree perfume flacon necklace (1976)


First edition represents a replica of an 18th century octagonal Baccarat cut crystal bottle that Helene Rochas spotted in a window in a Parisian antique shop.  These bottles are topped with a gold tone meta cap and adorned with a beaded gold tone metal collar, they were still being used in the 1970s and 1980s. The labels all had the elegant Madame Rochas copperplate script with initialed capitals and lower-cased letters.

Parfums Marcel Rochas fills a void. Parfum de Toilette is lighter than perfume, yet much longer lasting than cologne. It's the great in-between. With the Parfum de Toilette, you resume more lightly, one can be carefully lavish.

From the early 1960s to the late 1970s, some of the Eau de Cologne and the Parfum de Toilette bottles were simple cylindrical bottles with a screen printed brocade pattern on the glass, topped with gold plastic caps. The boxes have the same orangey gold brocade pattern on the white background.


So what does the original smell like? It is classified as a soft yet rich floral-aldehyde fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon and neroli 
  • Middle notes: jasmine, Bulgarian rose, tuberose, Lily-of-the-valley, orris root, ylang-ylang, violet and narcissus
  • Base notes: ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, cedar, oak moss and tonka bean


Reformulated by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jacques Fraysse and relaunched in new packaging in 1989. So what does it smell like? This new version was based on the original but with a slightly more intense formula.  The reformulated version bottles have beading along the edge of the cap.
  • Top notes: orange blossom, broom, honeysuckle and neroli
  • Middle notes: ylang-ylang, tuberose, jasmine, orris and Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, musk and amber

The new edition package was designed by Pierre Dinand and is available in 30, 50 and 100 ml edt.

Repackaged in 2013.

Parfums G. Doyen

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Parfums G. Doyen Paris was established in the early 1940s at rue de Caumartin, Paris, France.
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Perfume list:
  • 1945 Bouquet des Alliés
  • 1946 Gerbe de Mai
  • 1946 Oeillet Blanc
  • 1946 Catane
  • 1946 Automne
  • 1946 Sommet
  • 1946 Fougere
  • 1946 Cuir
  • 1947 Bakota

Hollywood Nights by Oralee Freres c1930

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Hollywood Nights by Oralee Freres: launched in 1930, rectangular black glass perfume bottle with black button stopper, gilded foil label, presentation box made up of lizard skin embossed paperboard, top of lid has a silken tassel.

Hollywood Nights was a line by Oralee de Freres and came in twelve different scents including Sweet Pea, Gardenia, Rose, Chypre, Lily of the Valley and Bouquet.



The photo below is an ad from a 1940 Universal Catalog.



The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, 1930:
"New! It’s Yours! PERFUME Hollywood Nights IN 12 ODOURS SWEET PEA - GARDENIA - ROSE - CHYPRE LILY of the VALLEY and BOUQUET. Made for you. To keep you fresh, buoyant, scintillating. All secret formula straight from Paris. For your bath, your body, your comfort, your allure! A lasting fragrance, THINK OF IT! A Parisian makes a Parfum for Hollywood! Could anything be more perfect, more fascinating? Oralee Freres is the clever Parisian who has originated it and it has taken Hollywood by storm!. . . and it has been endorsed by Hollywood’s most discriminating stars. It comes in a 1/4 -ounce bottle in a stunning case! A truly enchanted flacon for .......... Limit 2 to a Customer only $1.00." 

Mary Dunhill

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Mary Dunhill born in 1907, was the daughter of Alfred Dunhill, founder of the tobacco and pipe-making company. She died in 1988, aged 81 years old.

Originally trained as a hairdresser, she founded her perfume and cosmetic company in 1934. The most common of Mary Dunhill perfume bottles are the flat disk shapes known as the Scentinel, these were manufactured of clear glass bottles that were encased in either gold plated brass or solid sterling silver.  They made great gifts as they could be engraved with a monogram and could be filled with the lucky lady's favorite perfume. To continue the personalized theme, Mary Dunhill also introduced Lipstick and Eau de Cologne bottles that could be fitted with individual metal initials.

In 1934, she released the perfume with a whimsical name of Frou Frou de Gardenia, this sweet floral fragrance had notes of gardenia, clove, tobacco and sandalwood. Another floral perfume, Flowers of Devonshire was released two years later. In 1938, the seductive oriental perfume Amulet was launched while Bewitching, an aldehydic floral perfume with a dominant carnation note was introduced in 1941. Two other lovely floral perfumes were introduced, White Hyacinth in 1941 and Escape, with its rich rose note was launched in 1943.

The only daughter among Dunhill's four children, Ms. Dunhill joined the board of Dunhill Holdings in 1944, explaining ''they were rather short of men,'' and in 1961 became chairman, succeeding her eldest brother, Alfred. In 1975, she became president. During her tenure as chairman, the company won the Queen's Award to Industry three times.



The perfumes of Mary Dunhill of New York City:
  • 1934 Frou Frou de Gardenia (a floral perfume)
  • 1934 Dunhill for Men
  • 1936 Flowers of Devonshire (a floral perfume)
  • 1938 Amulet (an oriental perfume)
  • 1941 Bewitching (an aldehydic carnation perfume)
  • 1941 White Hyacinth (a floral perfume)
  • 1943 Escape  (a rich rose perfume)


Vogue, 1938:
"The ageless spell of the East is imprisoned in "Amulet,"— Mary Dunhill's seductive, new perfume, laden with enchantment, and reminiscent of the romantic days of Cleopatra ... As oriental in scent as the charm which inspired its name."



The following images are taken from a 1939 advertisement.










Tristano Onofri by Tristano Onofri

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Tristano Onofri Femme by Tristano Onofri: launched in 1990. This is the feminine counterpart fragrance to Tristano Onofri Homme released a year before in 1989.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre floral fragrance for women, though I would have classified this as a spicy floral oriental.
  • Top notes: bergamot, nutmeg, mandarin orange, basil and orange blossom
  • Heart notes: iris, jasmine, rose, tuberose and labdanum
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, ambergris, oak moss, vetiver, patchouli and vanilla
I am unfamiliar with this fragrance. I am not sure if there is a slight turned top note or if it may just be the spicy herbal top notes of basil and nutmeg. I think this is a beautiful fragrance. Very similar in the vein of orientals such as Youth Dew, Cinnabar, Opium and the original Guess perfume from 1990. It is very long lasting and is definitely a high quality perfume.

Available as Eau de Parfum.

Presented in an elegant rectangular shaped satin glass bottle molded with softly molded closed pleats on the sides. The  white frosted plastic stopper is molded as a pleat of material that falls open in graceful folds, a nod to the fashion designer.

This fragrance has been discontinued for years and can be very hard to find.




Musical Powder Boxes c1939

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Interesting musical powder boxes from a 1939 advertisement.










Taji by Shulton c1964

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Taji by Shulton: launched in 1964. The perfume is named for the Persian area near Baghdad.


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women, a blend of fragrant oils from India and the Middle East.
  • Top notes: bergamot and spices
  • Middle notes: ylang ylang, jasmine, cinnamon, herbs 
  • Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, oak moss, ambergris, musk, patchouli


Taji was available in the following:
  • Parfum
  • Perfume Oil Mist 
  • Taji Chiffon Spray Cologne 
  • Bath Oil 
  • Sheer Taji Body Lotion
  • Bath Powder
  • Soap

Taji was discontinued by Shulton, but a version is now made and distributed by Hazel Bishop New York.

Life, 1967:
"A delicately balanced blend of verdant florals, sophisticated herbs and other rare and rarely used scents, hauntingly beautiful Taji is what traditional perfumes are not. Taji is at last, a perfume that lasts. Taji perfume, perfume oil, cologne and complete collection of delights for body and bath."

Vogue, 1967:
"Taji has rediscovered this formula and, inspired by it, present Taji Chiffon Spray Cologne — for women who want to feel like English flowers, while others are wilting away. Taji Chiffon Spray Cologne is starting summer now at fine stores, $5.00."

Andrée Biallôt

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Andrée Biallôt, Ltd., 65 East 55th Street, NY, NY. established in 1966.

According to his 1991 obituary, Thomas M. Biallo, an executive in the perfume industry was president of a perfume supplier in Manhattan, Camilli, Albert & Laloue, from 1949 to 1962. He then became a director of International Flavors and Fragrances Inc., perfume suppliers.

In the mid-1960's, he founded his own company named after his daughter (Suzanne Andree Biallot), Andree Biallot Ltd., a natural extracts and raw materials concern in Manhattan who manufactured and distributed oils used in perfume, of which he was president. He retired in 1987, after an earlier stroke.

He was born in Brussels and came to the United States in 1946. He was a graduate of Cambridge University. Thomas died at New York Hospital as a result of a stroke at the age of 66, and besides his daughter, he was survived by his wife, the former Marion Hutchinson. Suzanne Andree Biallot was a former beauty and health editor at Elle and Town & Country magazines.

The company seemed to have ceased operations in the mid 1980s, but there is scant info, if anyone has anything to add here, I would be grateful.

Partout:

Andrée Biallôt was dissatisfied with the way that alcohol evaporates swiftly and overwhelms the nose with a burst of fragrance, and then...nothing. He stated that he heard women complaining time after time that they couldn't smell their own perfume after the first few minutes.

So, Biallôt wanted to create a perfume that “would be like the flowers of the field, releasing its bouquet, not in a short-lived burst, but slowly and gently and steadily throughout the day. And so, no alcohol. In its place, something quite different.”



The premise of these perfumes is that they were created without using alcohol as an ingredient which would normally give the perfume a lift, but didn't help with the perfume's longevity on the skin. Partout was the name he gave to the perfume of an innovative foam format, which was a secret formula composed up of an extremely high concentration of essential oils. The Partout perfumes would act more like skin scents that would last all day and into the night.

The etui was Andrée Biallôt’s own design, a tall, eight-sided, satin finished aluminum atomizer that used the principle of aerosol which would dispense a liquid pouf of scented foam the size of a large pearl onto the skin. Then you would gently massage the perfumed bubble into the skin, and as the skin breathed, tiny fragrance blossoms would be set free to bloom in the air. This perfume also doubled as a bath oil.




For fear of women wary of using the non-alcoholic formula, Andrée Biallôt also produced Sue Sue and Fanfaron in the traditional way using alcohol.

The fragrances were available in the following:
  • 1/4 oz. Parfum Spray (non-alcoholic) for $12.50 
  • 2 oz. Parfum Spray for $30.00 
  • 2 oz Parfum Spray Refill for $22.00

The two fragrances from the Partout line:
  • 1968 Sue Sue, a light, fresh green floral fragrance for women.
  • 1968 Fanfaron, a cool, sophisticated floral fragrance for women.

Unfortunately, I do not have any notes on these particular fragrances and need samples for review.

Due to financial difficulties, the Andrée Biallôt, Ltd company was reorganized in 1971.

Parfums Chevalier Garde, Inc.

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Parfums Chevalier Garde, lnc. was established by Alexandre "Sasha" Georgievich Tarsaidze in 1940 at 750 Fifth Ave, New York. Tarsaidze was an officer in the Czar's Imperial Navy and in the 1930's joined Prince Matchabelli's perfumery. Together with a fellow friend, Prince Serge Obolensky, he started Parfums Chevalier Garde.


Biographical Note
  • 1901 Born, Tiflis, Russia into family of old Georgian nobility
  • 1918 Graduated, Imperial Naval Academy, Petrograd
  • 1918-1921 Worked with Allied High Commissioner, Col. W. Haskell, in Tiflis
  • 1921 Escaped from Bolsheviks to Constantinople
  • Worked for American Relief Administration
  • 1923-1941 Emigrated to the United States
  •  Worked for Matchabelli Perfumes, R.H. Macy Co., Parfum Chevalier Garde and other retailers in cosmetic and jewelry business
  •  Member, Association of Former Russian Imperial Naval Officers
  •  Member, Georgian Society in the U.S.A.
  •  Director, Caucasian Society "Allaverdy"
  • 1940 Married Madeleine Black 
  • 1941-1944 Worked for U.S. Army intelligence
  • 1944 Author, Morskoi Korpus za CHetvert' Veka, 1901-1925, N.Y.
  • 1945 Divorced from Madeleine Black
  • 1945-1958 Director of Public Relations, Serge Obolensky Associates
  • 1947 Marries Elisabeth Wladimirovna Sverbeev
  • 1958 Author, Czars and Presidents
  • 1969 Author, CHetyre mifa
  • 1977 Author, Katia: Wife Before God
  • 1959-1978 Freelancer, public relations
  • 1978 Died, New York City

Tarsaidze was born in 1901 in a town called Gori, near Stalin's birthplace, Tiflis, Russia, into a family of old Georgian nobility. He claimed that the  name Tarsaidze means "the son of the early Christians" in Persian and that his family was subjugated by Persia in the fifteenth century, and that he was kin to the Celts and the Basques. His father, Dr. George A. Tarsaidze, was an oculist and his mother, the former Elizabeth Eristoff, was a princess who descended from King Irakli II, of what had once been the kingdom of Georgia before it was absorbed by czarist Russia early in the nineteenth century.

As a child, he read Jack London's stories about windjammers going to Alaska and the Klondike, so he decided to become a naval officer. In  1918, he graduated from the Imperial Naval Academy, Petrograd, which was founded by Peter the Great on November 19, 1701. Wherever the graduates are, he said, " in Siam or China or Brazil," they gather on November 19 to celebrate with a banquet of goose and apples. Empress Anna, the wife of Peter the Great, sent goose and apples to the first Academy dinner in 1701.

In 1918, he returned to his native Georgia, which declared independence on May 26, 1918, and worked with the Allied High Commissioner, Colonel William N. Haskell in Tiflis until being forced into exile by the Red Army invasion of Georgia.

In 1921, he escaped from the Bolsheviks to Constantinople, he was penniless, but had a good understanding of the English language where he was able to get work for American Relief Administration from 1923-1941, as well as a $13-a- week book-wrapper at Macmillan.

By 1926,  he got a job as a buyer in the fine jewelry department of Saks Fifth Avenue and B. H. Macy and Co.

In 1934, he worked for Prince Matchabelli Perfumes as a sales promotion and advertising manager. Matchabelli died the following year while Tarsaidze was organizing a London office for Serge Obolensky.  In 1937, he severed his connections with Prince Matchabelli Products Corporation, New York, as treasurer, a director of the American and French companies, director of sales, advertising, promotion and publicity.

He created Parfums Chevalier Garde in 1937 along with Serge Obolensky. Chevalier Garde was intended to be a company that produced a small, but complete line of French perfumes, cosmetics and other toiletries. He was president of Parfums Chevalier Garde until 1940, when the war cut them off from French imports.

He presented his perfumes in a bottle topped with the eagle which characterizes the perfumes of Parfums Chevalier Garde, as well as a smaller, purse size flacon dubbed the "Eaglet".


In 1938, Chevalier Garde lent their signature perfume scent exclusively to a company called Imra for use in their depilatory.

The company was renamed Artra Cosmetics Co. in 1940.

Printers' Ink, Volume 194, 1941:
"The company marketing Imra was first known as Parfums Chevalier Garde, Inc., and was an established firm in the cosmetic field. Last summer the name was changed to Artra Cosmetics, Inc., so that it would better agree with the feature line of.."

After his business closed, he worked for other retailers in cosmetic and jewelry businesses. Tarsaidze actively assisted two of the annual White Russian social events, the Allaverdy Ball and the Russian Naval Ball. He was a member of the Association of Former Russian Imperial Naval Officers, a member of the Georgian Society in the U.S.A.  The Director of the Caucasian Society "Allaverdy".

From 1941-1944 he worked for U.S. Army intelligence. During 1945-1958 he was the Director of Public Relations for Serge Obolensky Associates.

He married Madeleine Black, the daughter of the late A. Van Lear Black, publisher of The Baltimore Sun., on May 18, 1940, but the two divorced in 1945.

 In 1947, he married the German-born Elisabeth Wladimirovna Sverbeev.



In the 1950s, fearing that much material in the Soviet Union on the Imperial family had been destroyed or lost, Tarsaidze scoured the world to find all the film clippings he could of the Imperial family. Then in 1956 he put them together into a full-feature film (approx. 50 minutes long) called "Emperor Nicholas II; Last Czar of Russia". His monarchist colleagues were still showing it to groups in the 1980s.

He wrote many important books on Russia's Imperial history. He still remembered the excitement the day Stalin robbed a bank in Tiflis.

In 1958, Tarsaidze published a fascinating study of the friendly relations which existed between the Russian Empire and the USA before the Revolution. It's called: "Czars and Presidents, The Story of a Forgotten Friendship".

From 1959-1978 he worked as a freelancer for public relations.

All three of his marriages ended in divorce.  When he passed away at his home, located at 520 East 76th Street,  New York, in 1978,  at the age of 77, he left no immediate survivors.


The Perfumes:


The perfumes of Chevalier Garde:
  • 1936 Roi de Rome (a luxuriant, heavy, voluptuous, floral scent)
  • 1936 Fleur de Perse (barbaric, quite Oriental)
  • 1936 HRH (light, fresh, delicate, sweet and floral)


A 1937 advertisement reads:
" Introducing CHEVALIER GARDE PERFUMES... HRH, delicately glamorous; Fleur de Perse, quite Oriental, and Roi de Rome,  a languorous scent, each $12.00."

Harper's Bazaar, 1937:
" Chevalier Garde's "Roi de Rome" in the crested spherical bottle is a clinging fragrance, typically French, recalling the nineteenth-century flower gardens and tender memories of Napoleon's son."


A 1938 newspaper article in the Palm Beach Daily News reads:

"A new perfume, called Chevalier Garde, is being introduced by Saks Fifth Avenue Shop, the representative being Serge de Gorin, who is a visitor in Palm Beach. 
An old Roman custom was that of attaching dripping vials of scent to birds that were released to fly over the scene of a great festival, and when the Chevalier Garde scent was launched, following out of this pagan custom, a flock of white pigeons with tiny vials of this perfume tied to their legs were set free over New York. 
Its creator is Alexander Tarsaidze, formerly with the firm of Prince Matchabelli, while in his native Russia, this new perfumer was an officer in the Czar's Imperial Navy.  
His perfume is beautifully bottled, and Inspired by the helmet of the officer, with the Naval insignia, an Imperial eagle delicately etched in crystal."

Esquire, 1939:
"Chevalier Garde's complexly elegant H. R. H. created to match the May- fair sophistication of the Duchess of Kent, and Fleurs de Perse, barbaric, Oriental, exotic. ."

"PARFUMS CHEVALIER GARDE Parfums Chevalier Garde is introducing a bath oil called "Mare Nostrum." This bath oil is a new creation which is described as a combination of aroma of amaryllis, mimosa, and sweet herbs of the DalmatianCoast. The bottle is



Some information culled from wikipedia, alexanderpalace.com, and vintage magazine and newspaper articles.


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