In 1924, the launch of "Le Lys Noir" by Isabey occurred against the backdrop of the Roaring Twenties, a period marked by cultural dynamism, artistic innovation, and changing societal norms. This era was characterized by a fascination with luxury, sophistication, and a desire for new experiences, encapsulated in the burgeoning popularity of jazz, Art Deco aesthetics, and the rise of the modern woman.
The name "Le Lys Noir" (The Black Lily) chosen by Isabey holds rich symbolism and intrigue. The black lily, though not a natural flower, evokes a mysterious and exotic allure. In perfumery, naming a fragrance after a flower that doesn't exist in nature allows for artistic freedom to evoke specific imagery and emotions. The term "noir" (black) adds a layer of depth and contrast, suggesting a fragrance that is dark, intense, and perhaps enigmatic.
"Le Lys Noir" would have resonated with individuals seeking sophistication and drama in their perfumes. Those drawn to the name would likely expect a fragrance that is bold, sensual, and unconventional, aligning with the avant-garde spirit of the time. The perfume's allure would appeal to individuals who appreciate luxury and exclusivity, as well as those intrigued by the symbolic power of a black lily.
Symbolically, a "black lily" could represent many things: mystery, elegance, and even a touch of danger or seduction. In literature and art, black flowers often symbolize rebellion against norms or an embrace of the unknown. By using the term "noir" for a flower, Isabey enhances the fragrance's allure, suggesting a juxtaposition of innocence (the lily) with darkness and sophistication.
While there isn't a natural flower known as a black lily, the term allows for creative interpretation in perfumery. It invites the imagination to conjure images of a rare and exotic bloom with deep, velvety petals, emitting a fragrance that is both alluring and complex.
The name "Le Lys Noir" evokes a range of images and feelings: from the elegance and purity associated with the lily to the mystery and intensity suggested by its black hue. It promises a fragrance experience that is not only sensorially rich but also emotionally evocative, capturing the essence of an era defined by its pursuit of glamour and intrigue.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: orange, acacia, narcissus, neroli, jonquil, hyacinth, lily of the valley
- Middle notes: tuberose, violet, orange blossom, rose, heliotrope, ylang ylang, cardamom, jasmine, Florentine iris
- Base notes: rosewood, ambergris, Tonkin musk, styrax, vanilla, civet, benzoin, tonka bean
Le Lys Noir by Isabey is a captivating floral fragrance that evokes a sense of elegance and allure. Based on the provided notes and my personal experience, here's a description of what Le Lys Noir might smell like:
Scent Story:
In the depths of a moonlit garden, where shadows dance like whispers and the air is thick with the heady perfume of blooming flowers, there exists a mythical black lily. Its presence is as mysterious as the night itself, its petals a velvety darkness that seems to absorb rather than reflect the moonlight. This flower, known as "Le Lys Noir," is said to possess a seductive and dangerous allure, drawing those who dare to seek its forbidden pleasures.
As I approach, the garden comes alive with a symphony of scents. The air is saturated with the sweet citrusy notes of orange and neroli, mingling with the delicate floral whispers of acacia, narcissus, and jonquil. Each breath draws me deeper into its intoxicating embrace, the scent of hyacinth and lily of the valley adding a fresh, green undertone that enhances the lily's dark allure.
I reach out to touch the petals, expecting a softness that belies the flower's mysterious nature. Instead, the texture is smooth yet cool, almost like silk brushed against my skin. As my fingers trace the contours of the lily, a subtle spice emerges — cardamom and a hint of jasmine intertwined with the creamy richness of tuberose and violet. These middle notes create an exotic warmth, evoking visions of ancient rituals and whispered secrets.
With each passing moment, the fragrance evolves, deepening into a sensuous symphony of base notes. Rosewood and benzoin add a woody depth, while ambergris and Tonkin musk lend an animalic sensuality that is both primal and enticing. Vanilla and tonka bean bring a comforting sweetness, tempered by the lingering presence of civet and styrax, which add a dark, resinous edge that heightens the flower's mythical allure.
As I stand enveloped in the garden's embrace, I am aware of more than just scent. The night is alive with sounds — the distant rustle of leaves, the murmur of a gentle breeze, and the hypnotic hum of insects. Each sense is heightened, attuned to the dark beauty of the black lily, whose essence permeates the air with a promise of forbidden pleasures and untamed desires.
In this mythical garden, under the spell of "Le Lys Noir," I experience a sensory journey unlike any other. It is a tale of seduction and mystery, where every aroma, touch, and whisper of the night unfolds like a secret revealed only to those brave enough to seek the dark, carnal flower that blooms in the shadows.
Bottles:
Julien Viard Bottle:
The packaging and presentation of Le Lys Noir by Isabey epitomize luxury and sophistication, designed to enhance the allure of its exquisite fragrance. Housed in a jeweler's case crafted from poplar wood and adorned with embossed paper, mimicking the look of tooled leather from Toledo, known for its intricate patterns, the exterior exudes opulence and exclusivity. The case opens dramatically with two doors, unveiling the treasure within and heightening the anticipation of the olfactory journey.
Inside, the case is lined with luxurious yellow satin, providing a sumptuous backdrop that complements the richness of the fragrance. The clear glass bottle, a centerpiece of modern elegance, features a cubic section and truncated pyramidal shape that highlights the golden hue of the perfume within. Molded decoration at the bottle's base, adorned with foliage and flowers accented by an anthracite patina, adds a layer of intricate detail and sophistication.
Topping the bottle is a conical stopper embellished with floral gothic décor, echoing the fragrance's floral composition and adding to its regal appearance. Designed by the renowned Julien Viard, the bottle stands approximately 15 cm (5.9 inches) tall, making it a statement piece that commands attention and admiration in any collection.
Le Lys Noir's bottle held approximately 1 2/3 ounces of parfum, ensuring ample indulgence in its luxurious scent over an extended period. Together, the meticulous craftsmanship of the jeweler's case and the artistic design of the bottle underscore the perfume's status as a collector's item and a timeless expression of perfumery artistry. The packaging of Le Lys Noir by Isabey is not merely a vessel but an integral part of the fragrance's allure and desirability, embodying elegance and refinement for those who appreciate the finer things in life.
Bottle by Rene Lalique:
The connection between the perfume flacon designed by Julien Viard for Le Lys Noir and the modern Lalique perfume bottle for Azalee in 2013 underscores Lalique's enduring influence and timeless elegance in design.
René Lalique, a visionary glassmaker and esteemed Art Nouveau and Art Deco designer, established a profound legacy through his exquisite glass creations and innovative designs. Among his notable motifs was the stylized lotus flower, which he frequently incorporated into his works, symbolizing purity, enlightenment, and rebirth.
Lalique's use of the lotus motif on the Le Lys Noir perfume flacon exemplified his mastery, blending organic forms with luxurious materials. This design choice resonated with elegance and sophistication, setting a standard for artistic expression in perfume packaging.
In 2013, Lalique revisited this iconic motif on the Azalee perfume bottle, showcasing its continued relevance and appeal in contemporary perfumery. The stylized lotus, adorned with black enamel accents, retained its timeless allure, offering a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity.
The lotus flower's symbolism transcends cultural boundaries, resonating deeply in Eastern cultures for its associations with spiritual enlightenment and beauty. Its aesthetic beauty, coupled with Lalique's craftsmanship and use of black enamel accents, creates a visual impact that speaks to sophistication and luxury.
Ultimately, Lalique's consistent use of the lotus motif across different eras underscores his enduring legacy as a master of glassmaking and design. Through his creations, Lalique continues to captivate and inspire, bridging the past and present with an unwavering commitment to beauty, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance in perfumery and beyond.
Black Crystal Flacon:
The octagonal-shaped, opaque black crystal flacon used for Lys Noir is a stunning representation of the elegance and sophistication synonymous with the Art Deco era. Its maker remains unknown, yet the craftsmanship evident in its design suggests a mastery of materials and attention to detail.
Crafted from opaque black crystal, the flacon exudes an air of mystery and allure, enhanced by the contrast with delicate gold enameling. These accents, meticulously applied along the sides of the flacon, add a touch of luxury and opulence that typifies Art Deco design principles.
Art Deco's influence on the flacon is unmistakable, characterized by its geometric shapes and angular motifs. Such design elements were hallmarks of the period, reflecting a fascination with symmetry, bold lines, and modernity. The use of luxurious materials like crystal and gold enamel further exemplifies the era's penchant for combining opulence with sleek, streamlined forms.
The unknown maker of the flacon contributes to its rarity and allure, making it a coveted piece for collectors and enthusiasts of Art Deco artistry. The mystery surrounding its origin invites speculation and curiosity, allowing viewers to appreciate its beauty while pondering the craftsmanship behind its creation.
In conclusion, the opaque black crystal flacon used for Lys Noir stands as a captivating example of Art Deco's enduring legacy. With its sophisticated design and meticulous detailing, it embodies the era's commitment to elegance and craftsmanship, leaving a lasting impression on those who admire its timeless allure.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The fate of the original Le Lys Noir fragrance by Isabey, including its discontinuation date, remains unknown, adding to its mystique and allure.
2014 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 2014, Panouge embarked on a journey to revive the timeless essence of Le Lys Noir, presenting a modern interpretation crafted by perfumer Rania Naim. Renowned for her innovative approach and olfactory expertise, Naim was entrusted with reimagining this iconic fragrance, infusing it with a contemporary twist while honoring its classic allure.
The modern version of Le Lys Noir is classified as a floral oriental fragrance tailored for women. This classification signifies a harmonious blend of floral opulence and oriental warmth, creating a scent profile that is both richly floral and sensually alluring. Naim's interpretation aims to capture the essence of the original while introducing modern elements that resonate with contemporary tastes and preferences.
In her creative process, Naim likely drew inspiration from the original fragrance's legacy, delicately balancing its floral notes with oriental accords to evoke a sense of timeless sophistication and elegance. This approach ensures that while the modern Le Lys Noir pays homage to its predecessor, it also stands as a distinct olfactory experience that appeals to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts.
Fragrance Composition:
The modern version is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
- Top note: pepper
- Middle notes: tuberose, narcissus, lily and heliotrope
- Base notes: sandalwood, patchouli, musk and ebony
From Isabey:
"The StoryIn 1924, the first edition of Lys Noir was presented in a magnificent bottle and coffret conceived by the renowned designer, Julien Viard and the famous Sorys House. Lys Noir is one of the first of Isabey’s fragrances such as Gardenia, La Route d’Emeraude, Le Mimosa… creating the prestige of the brand. Lys Noir has been redesigned first in 2014 and now in 2017 while keeping the emblematic art-deco codes of the brand. Lys Noir is a mysterious, desirable fragrance dedicated to elegant women with glamorous style and charm, leaving an unforgettable trail wherever she passes.
The Fragrance
As a ‘femme du monde’ signature, Lys Noir affirms its style through an elegant Clair-obscure around the opulent and captivating scent of Lily. Stirred up by notes of Black Pepper, Lys Noir develops its voluptuous trail through narcotic flowers: Tuberose and Narcissus imprint their spicy animal facets on this mysterious aura. In the dry down, Patchouli expands its dark attractive power playing between Ebony wood and a milky Sandalwood accord. This forbidden game softly wrapped by a musky veil."
Scent Profile:
Le Lys Noir, classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women, unfolds its intricate layers with a captivating blend of notes that evoke both floral elegance and oriental allure. At the forefront, the fragrance opens with a tantalizing top note of pepper, adding a spicy and intriguing element that sets the stage for what's to come.
As the fragrance develops, its heart reveals a rich bouquet of middle notes. Tuberose takes center stage, exuding its creamy floral richness alongside the intoxicating sweetness of narcissus. Lily contributes a fresh and delicate floral accord, while heliotrope adds a hint of powdery sweetness, creating a harmonious symphony of floral nuances that enhance the fragrance's feminine allure.
The base notes of Le Lys Noir anchor the composition with depth and sensuality. Sandalwood lends a creamy, woody richness that intertwines with the earthy, aromatic tones of patchouli. Musk adds a velvety softness and warmth, enveloping the wearer in a subtle, lingering embrace. Ebony wood brings a dark, mysterious edge to the base, complementing the floral notes with its distinctive, aromatic presence.
Together, these notes weave a narrative of timeless sophistication and allure, making Le Lys Noir a fragrance that captivates with its complexity and leaves a lasting impression. Whether experienced in the light of day or the allure of night, it offers a journey through contrasting elements—spicy and sweet, floral and woody—that harmonize to create a truly unforgettable olfactory experience.
I received a generous sample from Panouge. My first impression is that this fragrance is very similar to JuJu by Joots. It is incredible! It is sweet and musky, perfect for cashmere and soft fabrics. The cherry pie scent of the heliotrope is evident in both perfumes. The gardenia in JuJu and the tuberose in Lys Noir are very similar in character, full bodied and opulent. The perfumes both share a woodsy, musky base which round out the scent beautifully. Though both are oriental florals, there are some differences between them, while Lys Noir is sweeter and more complex, JuJu is muskier and softer.
JuJu's notes:
- Top notes: gardenia, geranium, bergamot
- Middle notes: jasmine, neroli, vanilla, heliotrope
- Base notes: musk, amber, woodsy notes
I had an enchanting olfactory experience comparing Le Lys Noir by Panouge with JuJu by Joots! Here's a closer look at the similarities and differences between these two captivating fragrances:
Similarities:
- Sweet and Musky: Both fragrances share a sweet and musky quality, creating a warm and inviting aura that is perfect for cozying up in cashmere and soft fabrics.
- Heliotrope Accord: The cherry pie scent of heliotrope is evident in both perfumes, adding a delightful and comforting sweetness to the overall composition.
- Opulent Florals: While Le Lys Noir features tuberose as a prominent floral note, JuJu showcases gardenia. Both gardenia and tuberose are full-bodied and opulent, contributing to the richness and complexity of the fragrances.
- Woodsy, Musky Base: Both fragrances share a woodsy, musky base that adds depth and sophistication to the scent profile, providing a beautiful foundation for the floral and sweet notes to shine.
Differences:
- Complexity: Le Lys Noir is described as sweeter and more complex, offering a multi-faceted olfactory experience with its intricate blend of notes. JuJu, on the other hand, is noted to be muskier and softer, perhaps with a simpler composition.
- Key Notes: While both fragrances share some common notes such as heliotrope and musk, Le Lys Noir features tuberose, sandalwood, patchouli, and ebony as key notes, whereas JuJu highlights gardenia, jasmine, vanilla, and amber.
Conclusion:
While Le Lys Noir and JuJu share some similarities, each fragrance also possesses its own unique charm and character. Whether you're drawn to the sweet complexity of Le Lys Noir or the softer muskiness of JuJu, both fragrances offer an enchanting olfactory journey that captivates the senses and leaves a lasting impression. Exploring the nuances and differences between these two perfumes can be a delightful adventure for fragrance enthusiasts seeking their perfect scent companion.
Bottle:
The presentation of the 2014 version of Lys Noir by Panouge is a testament to luxury and sophistication, meticulously designed to enhance the allure of the fragrance.
Crafted from smoked glass, the bottle exudes an air of mystery and elegance. Its matte finish on four sides not only adds tactile appeal but also enhances its visual presence, capturing light in subtle ways that highlight its refined craftsmanship. Adorning the bottle is bright metallic silver serigraphy, featuring the perfume's name and a stylized ivy design. This detailing adds a touch of glamour and refinement, complementing the overall aesthetic.
Topping the bottle is a black cap with a soft, matte black rubber covering and a magnetic closure, ensuring a secure fit that combines practicality with elegance.
Nestled within a luxurious presentation box, covered in metallic silver textured paper, the bottle is housed in style. The box is adorned with black serigraphy that mirrors the design elements of the bottle, creating a cohesive and harmonious visual impression. The ivy pattern, continuing from the bottle, enhances the box's allure.
Inside, the bottle rests on a bed of glossy black satin, providing plush and protective cushioning for the precious contents. This interior lining not only enhances the luxurious feel but also ensures the bottle is securely nestled, further underscoring the attention to detail in every aspect of the packaging.
In conclusion, the presentation of the 2014 version of Lys Noir by Panouge is a masterclass in sophistication and luxury. From its sleek bottle design with smoked glass and metallic accents to its opulent presentation box adorned with textured paper and satin lining, every detail reflects the timeless elegance and refinement befitting the fragrance within. It sets the stage for a sensory journey that begins with visual delight and promises an enchanting olfactory experience.
Below are photos of my own box I purchased. Below are some photos of the back of the box with the description, the base of the box showing the ingredients list, and the base of the bottle.
Perle de Lys Noir:
The introduction of Perle de Lys Noir in 2014 marked a luxurious and exclusive addition to Isabey's fragrance collection, offering enthusiasts a concentrated and intensified version of the beloved Lys Noir scent. Here's a closer look at the limited edition extrait and its presentation:
Fragrance Notes:
- Top Notes: Broom absolute, black lily, black pepper create an intriguing and captivating opening.
- Middle Notes: Ylang ylang essence, tuberose essence, jasmine essence contribute to the floral richness and opulence of the fragrance.
- Base Notes: Amber, vanilla, incense, sandalwood essence, cashmere wood provide a warm and sensual foundation, leaving a lasting impression.
Perle de Lys Noir can be purchased directly from Parfum Isabey's website, offering enthusiasts the opportunity to acquire this exclusive fragrance for their collection.
Perle de Lys Noir encapsulates the essence of luxury and sophistication, offering a concentrated and intensified interpretation of the beloved Lys Noir scent. With its exquisite bottle design, luxurious packaging, and rich fragrance composition, it stands as a true gem in Isabey's fragrance portfolio, inviting fragrance connoisseurs to indulge in its opulence and allure.
2017 Redesigned Bottle:
The update to the bottle design of Lys Noir Eau de Parfum in 2017 marks a harmonious fusion of modern aesthetics with the vintage elegance of a 1920s Isabey bottle originally crafted by Czech master glass craftsman, Ludwig Moser. This thoughtful blend pays homage to the fragrance's rich heritage while introducing contemporary sophistication. The updated design seamlessly integrates modern elements, ensuring a timeless appeal that resonates with both new and seasoned perfume enthusiasts.
Available directly from Parfums Isabey's website, the 50ml and 100ml flacons of Lys Noir Eau de Parfum provide collectors and connoisseurs alike with the opportunity to acquire this exquisite piece for their personal collection. Additionally, a convenient 10ml travel flacon caters to those who value portability without compromising on the essence of the fragrance, making it ideal for travel or daily use.
Regarding the fragrance itself, while there is no official confirmation of tweaks to the formula, slight modifications may have been made to enhance performance or align with evolving consumer preferences. These adjustments, if any, would be subtle, preserving the signature characteristics of Lys Noir while ensuring its continued relevance and allure in today's market.
In conclusion, the updated bottle design and availability of Lys Noir Eau de Parfum exemplify Parfums Isabey's commitment to offering a blend of tradition and innovation. With its timeless elegance and modern appeal, Lys Noir continues to captivate perfume enthusiasts globally, delivering an enchanting olfactory experience that stands the test of time.
