"Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess was introduced in 1956. It was described as a sparkling and modern perfume, exclusively crafted for Mary Chess, and it featured an exquisite French bottle replica of the famous Plaza Fountain in New York City.
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In the base notes, vanilla adds a creamy sweetness, while musk contributes a soft and powdery undertone, enhancing the overall warmth and depth of the fragrance. Amber provides a rich and resinous quality, adding complexity and sophistication. Oakmoss provides an earthy and mossy undertone. Finally, sandalwood imparts a creamy and woody richness, grounding the composition with its velvety smoothness.
Altogether, "Souvenir d'un Soir" is a beautifully balanced fragrance, with a sparkling citrusy opening, a romantic floral heart, and a warm and sensual base, evoking memories of enchanting evenings and unforgettable moments, just as intended.
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Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon
- Middle notes: rose, jasmine
- Base notes: vanilla, musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss
Based on its composition, "Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess has a delightful and complex fragrance profile:
With aldehydes leading the top notes, followed by bergamot and lemon, "Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess opens with a burst of effervescence and brightness, characteristic of aldehydic fragrances. The aldehydes provide a sparkling and uplifting quality, enhancing the freshness of the citrusy bergamot and lemon notes.
As the fragrance develops, the heart notes of rose and jasmine emerge, infusing the composition with a floral bouquet that is both elegant and romantic. The sweet and intoxicating aroma of rose blend seamlessly with the heady and sensual scent of jasmine, creating a captivating olfactory experience.
As the fragrance develops, the heart notes of rose and jasmine emerge, infusing the composition with a floral bouquet that is both elegant and romantic. The sweet and intoxicating aroma of rose blend seamlessly with the heady and sensual scent of jasmine, creating a captivating olfactory experience.
In the base notes, vanilla adds a creamy sweetness, while musk contributes a soft and powdery undertone, enhancing the overall warmth and depth of the fragrance. Amber provides a rich and resinous quality, adding complexity and sophistication. Oakmoss provides an earthy and mossy undertone. Finally, sandalwood imparts a creamy and woody richness, grounding the composition with its velvety smoothness.
Altogether, "Souvenir d'un Soir" is a beautifully balanced fragrance, with a sparkling citrusy opening, a romantic floral heart, and a warm and sensual base, evoking memories of enchanting evenings and unforgettable moments, just as intended.
Bottles:
The intricately designed bottle of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" pays homage to the majestic Pulitzer Fountain, a prominent landmark located in New York City's Central Park. The fountain features a depiction of "Pomona," the Roman goddess of abundance, representing the beauty of nature and the bounty of the harvest. Positioned in front of the Plaza Hotel and adjacent to Bergdorf Goodman department store, the fountain stands as a symbol of luxury and elegance in the heart of Manhattan.
Bergdorf Goodman, renowned for its exclusive offerings of high-end fashion and luxury goods, served as the exclusive retailer of Mary Chess fragrances, further enhancing the prestige of the "Souvenir d'Un Soir" presentation. The launch of this fragrance was celebrated with an event at the Plaza Hotel, showcasing the exquisite bottle design and captivating scent to discerning clientele.
Crafted in France, the figural bottles of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" exemplify exceptional artistry and attention to detail. Available in two sizes—4.75" tall for the larger version (holding 2 oz) and 3.5" tall for the smaller version (holding 0.25 oz) —these bottles captured the essence of the Pulitzer Fountain's grandeur and elegance. Unfortunately, I do not know who manufactured the French bottles, it could be Verreries Brosse or Verreries le Bresle. These glassmakers also have a history of producing beautiful bottles for various perfume brands. What I do know is that it was not produced by Lalique.
Additionally, non-figural bottles were produced by Wheaton, maintaining the fragrance's allure and sophistication.
"May the fountain at the plaza - one of New York's most beautiful landmarks bring back to you - The Memory of an Evening - Souvenir d'un Soir" is printed on the back of the hangtag. The sentiment adds a poetic and nostalgic touch to the fragrance presentation. The message conjures images of romantic evenings spent amidst the elegance and grandeur of New York City.
Harper's Bazaar, 1956:
"MARY CHESS- New from France... SOUVENIR D'UN SOIR! A sparkling, modern perfume made exclusively for Mary Chess. French bottle is an exquisite replica of the Plaza Fountain."
The New Yorker, Vol 33,1956
"SOUVENIR D'UN SOIR- The newest of Mary Chess Perfumes -an exciting , modern blend compounded in France. A sparkling perfume for day and evening. Exquisite French bottle—a replica of the famous Saint-Gaudens fountain in New York's Plaza. 2 ozs. $45, 1/4 oz. $10, purse Flacon, $5. Aerosol Nuages de Parfum, $5. All plus tax."
The descriptions of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" from Harper's Bazaar and The New Yorker in 1956 highlight the fragrance's debut as a luxurious and captivating addition to Mary Chess's perfume collection. The scent, hailed as "sparkling" and "modern," was exclusively crafted for Mary Chess, adding to the allure and exclusivity of the brand's offerings.
The pricing information provided in The New Yorker further positions "Souvenir d'Un Soir" as a luxury item, with options ranging from 0.25 oz. bottles to larger 2 oz. sizes, as well as purse flacons and aerosol nuages de parfum. These offerings cater to different preferences and occasions, allowing consumers to experience the enchanting fragrance in various formats.
Overall, the "Souvenir d'Un Soir" presentation exemplifies the fusion of art, luxury, and fragrance, offering a captivating olfactory experience paired with an exquisite bottle design inspired by one of New York City's most iconic landmarks.
Fate of the Fragrance:
"Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess was eventually discontinued, although the exact date of discontinuation is not widely documented. Like many fragrances, its availability likely depended on factors such as market trends, consumer demand, and the evolving product portfolio of Mary Chess over the years..