Maroussia by Zaitzev: launched in 1992 in association with Soreal, a joint venture between L'Oreal and a Russian company. The fragrance was developed in Grasse for L'Oreal by Martin Gras for Russian fashion designer Viacheslav "Slava" Zaitzev.
The name is derived from the Russian name Maroussia, Marusja (Maria).
At the time, Maroussia was developed for the Russian woman's taste in fragrances, strong, heavy, long lasting and a bit old fashioned, but it was decided to be sold worldwide to appeal to a wide range of tastes. As a result, L'Oreal set aside $3 million to launch its first mainstream perfume brand, Maroussia. Print advertisements featured the gorgeous Dutch model Frederique van der Wal.
The fragrance was first introduced in Paris in 1992 where the designer claimed that "it is embodied by a woman who is exuberant, impulsive, striking and captivating." The fragrance was a hit because by 1993, as many as 250,000 bottles were exported from Russia to Paris each month.
Maroussia was launched in Australia in 1993, beginning with a press conference in which L'Oreal spokespeople explained the strategies to the reporters and department store executives and buyers. Then a spectacular launch party was held at Sydney University's Great Hall. The main theme was red and gold and everything was essentially Russian. Dancers, traditionally dressed as the famous Cossacks from the steppes, from the Sydney Dance Company performed to Tchaikovsky as guests sipped Stoli vodka and ate costly Beluga caviar with the requisite blinis.
The red and gold packaging was designed and created by AlphaPack. AlphaPack used different thicknesses of DuPont's Surlyn resin to create a shimmering closure shaped like a Kremlin spire. The company called the color "precious as a real ruby." AlphaPack provided all machines, parts and molds and even trained the Russian technicians. The scarlet hued glass bottles were made by an unknown, but talented, glassworks in Kiev.
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The fragrance was first introduced in Paris in 1992 where the designer claimed that "it is embodied by a woman who is exuberant, impulsive, striking and captivating." The fragrance was a hit because by 1993, as many as 250,000 bottles were exported from Russia to Paris each month.
Maroussia was launched in Australia in 1993, beginning with a press conference in which L'Oreal spokespeople explained the strategies to the reporters and department store executives and buyers. Then a spectacular launch party was held at Sydney University's Great Hall. The main theme was red and gold and everything was essentially Russian. Dancers, traditionally dressed as the famous Cossacks from the steppes, from the Sydney Dance Company performed to Tchaikovsky as guests sipped Stoli vodka and ate costly Beluga caviar with the requisite blinis.
The Aussie gala was attended by the Vice-Consul of the Russian Federation, Alexander Kolyshkin and his wife Galina. Also attending was the Ambassador Extraordinary Plenipotentiary of the Russian Federation, Viatcheslav I. Dolgov. Other luminaries included Australian perfumer Michael Edwards and Parisian perfumer Dominique Meriat. Only the couturier Slava Zaitsev was missing. The launch proved to be a hit, Maroussia was the third best selling fragrance sold in Australia between February and July 1995. It was just behind Chloe Narcisse by Karl Lagerfeld and Arpege by Lanvin.
Fragrance Composition:
It is classified as a classical floral-oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity top, followed by a flowery heart, resting on a woodsy amber base.
- Top notes: bergamot, orange blossom, peach, blackcurrant bud, aldehydes
- Middle notes: rose, lily of the valley, iris, carnation, heliotrope, jasmine, narcissus, orchid, ylang-ylang, tuberose
- Base notes: civet, amber, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, cedar, sandalwood and musk
Bottle:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued around 1999. It has been more recently reformulated and relaunched. The newer versions have a long list of ingredients on the back of the box.
I am aware of another fragrance known as "Eau de Maroussia" as well as another called "Authentic Maroussia," which is sold in an emerald green bottle, starting in 1996 as a fresh counterpart to the heavier Maroussia in the red bottle. Christian Dior did something similar a few years earlier when he added Tendre Poison as a fresh, green alternative to his heady oriental Poison.
This is not the same fragrance as was sold in the red bottle, it is a wholly different scent, described as powdery chypre, with fresh bitter greens, tart citrus with woods lightly touched with musk and amber. Authentic Maroussia was developed to capture the fresh green scent of a spring meadow imprisoned in ice. Also developed in association with L'Oreal, it had notes of lemon, green tea, amber, blackcurrant leaf, Amur lily, Ural cedar, cilantro, icewort, coriander, White Sea narcissus, musk, and oakmoss. The original formula is housed in the frosted glass bottle with white cap. The modern version is in the emerald green glass bottle.
